Relating Self-assembly to Spatio-temporal Keratin Expression in the Wool Follicle

De novo filament formation by human hair keratins K85 and K35 follows a filament development pattern distinct from cytokeratin filament networks

In human hair follicles, the hair‐forming cells express 16 hair keratin genes depending on the differentiation stages. K85 and K35 are the first hair keratins expressed in cortical cells at the early stage of the differentiation. Two types of mutations in the gene encoding K85 are associated with ectodermal dysplasia of hair and nail type. Here, we transfected cultured SW‐13 cells with human K85 and K35 genes and characterized filament formation. The K85–K35 pair formed short filaments in the cytoplasm, which gradually elongated and became thicker and entangled around the nucleus, indicating that K85–K35 promotes lateral association of short intermediate filaments (IFs) into bundles but cannot form IF networks in the cytoplasm. Of the K85 mutations related to ectodermal dysplasia of hair and nail type, a two‐nucleotide (C¹⁴⁴⁸T¹⁴⁴⁹) deletion (delCT) in the protein tail domain of K85 interfered with the K85–K35 filament formation and gave only aggregates, whereas a missense mutation (233A>G) that replaces Arg⁷⁸ with His (R78H) in the head domain of K85 did not interfere with the filament formation. Transfection of cultured MCF‐7 cells with all the hair keratin gene combinations, K85–K35, K85(R78H)–K35 and K85(delCT)–K35, as well as the individual hair keratin genes, formed well‐developed cytoplasmic IF networks, probably by incorporating into the endogenous cytokeratin IF networks. Thus, the unique de novo assembly properties of the K85–K35 pair might play a key role in the early stage of hair formation.

Wanted, dead and alive: Why a multidisciplinary approach is needed to unlock hair treatment potential

Human recorded history is littered with attempts to improve the perceived appearance of scalp hair. Throughout history, treatments have included both biological and chemical interventions. Hair "quality" or "perceived appearance" is regulated by multiple biological intervention opportunities: adding more hairs by flipping follicles from telogen to anagen, or delaying anagen follicles transiting into catagen; altering hair "apparent amount" by modulating shaft diameter or shape; or, in principle, altering shaft physical properties changing its synthesis. By far the most common biological intervention strategy today is to increase the number of hairs, but to date this has proven difficult and has yielded minimal benefits. Chemical intervention primarily consists of active material surface deposition to improve shaft shine, fibre-fibre interactions and strength. Real, perceptible benefits will best be achieved by combining opportunity areas across the three primary sciences: biology, chemistry and physics. Shaft biogenesis begins with biology: proliferation in the germinative matrix, then crossing "Auber's Critical Line" and ceasing proliferation to synthesize shaft components. Biogenesis then shifts to oxidative chemistry, where previously synthesized components are organized and cross-linked into a shaft. We herein term the crossing point from biology to chemistry as "The Orwin Threshold." Historically, hair biology and chemistry have been conducted in different fields, with biological manipulation residing in biomedical communities and hair shaft chemistry and physics within the consumer care industry, with minimal cross-fertilization. Detailed understanding of hair shaft biogenesis should enable identification of factors necessary for optimum hair shaft production and new intervention opportunities.

Helical twist direction in the macrofibrils of keratin fibres is left handed

Macrofibrils, the main structural features within the cortical cells of mammalian hair shafts, are long composite bundles of keratin intermediate filaments (KIFs) embedded in a matrix of keratin-associated proteins. The KIFs can be helically arranged around the macrofibril central axis, making a cylinder within which KIF helical angle relative to macrofibril axis increases approximately linearly from macrofibril centre to edge. Mesophase-based self-assembly has been implicated in the early formation of macrofibrils, which first appear as liquid-crystal tactoids in the bulb of hair follicles. Formation appears to be driven initially by interactions between pre-keratinized KIFs. Differences in the nature of these KIF-KIF interactions could result in all macrofibrils being internally twisted in a single handedness, or a 50:50 mixture of handedness within each cortical cell. We data-mined 41 electron tomograms containing three-dimensional macrofibril data from previously published studies of hair and wool. In all 644 macrofibrils examined we found that within each tomogram all macrofibrils had the same handedness. We concluded that earlier reports of left- and right-handed macrofibrils were due to artefacts of imaging or data processing. A handedness marker was used to confirm (using re-imaged sections from earlier studies) that, in both human and sheep, all macrofibrils are left-handed around the macrofibril axis. We conclude that this state is universal within mammalian hair. This also supports the conclusion that the origin of macrofibril twist is the expression of chiral twisting forces between adjacent KIFs, rather than mesophase splay and bending forces relaxing to twisting forces acting within a confined space.

Macrofibril Formation

Macrofibrils are the main structural component of the hair cortex, and are a composite material in which trichokeratin intermediate filaments (IFs) are arranged as organised arrays embedded in a matrix composed of keratin-associated proteins (KAPs) and keratin head groups. Various architecture of macrofibrils is possible, with many having a central core around which IFs are helically arranged, an organisation most accurately described as a double-twist arrangement. In this chapter we describe the architecture of macrofibrils and then cover their formation, with most of the material focusing on the theory that the initial stages of macrofibril formation are as liquid crystals.

Development of Hair Fibres

The growth of hairs occurs during the anagen phase of the follicle cycle. Hair growth begins with basement membrane-bound stem cells (mother cells) around the dermal papilla neck which continuously bud off daughter cells which further divide as a transient amplifying population. Division ceases as cell line differentiation begins, which entails changes in cell junctions, cell shape and position, and cell-line specific cytoplasmic expression of keratin and trichohyalin. As the differentiating cells migrate up the bulb, nuclear function ceases in cortex, cuticle and inner root sheath (IRS) layers. Past the top of the bulb, cell shape/position changes cease, and there is a period of keratin and keratin-associated protein (KAP) synthesis in fibre cell lines, with increases, in particular of KAP species. A gradual keratinization process begins in the cortex at this point and then non-keratin cell components are increasingly broken down. Terminal cornification, or hardening, is associated with water loss and precipitation of keratin. In the upper follicle, the hair, now in its mature form, detaches from the IRS, which is then extracted of material and becomes fragmented to release the fibre. Finally, the sebaceous and sudoriferous (if present) glands coat the fibre in lipid-rich material and the fibre emerges from the skin. This chapter follows the origin of the hair growth in the lower bulb and traces the development of the various cell lines.