Cutaneous implications of essential oils

Antidepressant-like Activity of Patchouli Oil var. Tapak Tuan (Pogostemon cablin Benth) via Elevated Dopamine Level: A Study Using Rat Model

Essential oils are gaining popularity for their use in treating depression, including that extracted from patchouli leaves and stems (Pogostemon cablin). Herein, we used patchouli oil (PO) containing a high amount of patchouli alcohol derived from P. cablin var. Tapak Tuan. The aim of this study was to investigate the antidepressant potential of PO, with a variety of patchouli alcohol concentrations obtained from a separation process using vacuum distillation with different temperature ranges. The initial patchouli oil (iPO) was traditionally distilled by a local farmer and further distilled using a rotary evaporator at temperature ranges of 115−160 °C (POF-1); 120−160 °C (POF-2), and 125−160 °C (POF-3), resulting in products with different patchouli alcohol concentrations. POF-3, with the highest patchouli alcohol content of 60.66% (based on gas chromatography-mass spectrometry), was used for cooling crystallization, resulting in 100% patchouli alcohol crystal (pPA). A tail suspension test (TST) was performed on a rat model to screen the antidepressant potential of iPO and its derivatives. The TST results revealed that POF-3 had the best antidepressant-like effect and was second only to the fluoxetine-based antidepressant, Kalxetin®, where both groups had significant reductions of immobility time post-treatment (p < 0.0001). Other than patchouli alcohol, POF-3 also contained ledol and trans-geraniol, which have been reported for their antidepressant-related activities. Brain dopamine levels increased significantly in the group treated with POF-3 (p < 0.05 as compared with the control group), suggesting its primary anti-depressant mechanism. These findings suggest the potential of vacuum-distilled patchouli oil in reducing depression via dopamine elevation.

Essential Oils and Their Individual Components in Cosmetic Products

The current consumer demands together with the international regulations have pushed the cosmetic industry to seek new active ingredients from natural renewable sources for manufacturing more eco-sustainability and safe products, with botanical extract being an almost unlimited source of these new actives. Essential oils (EOs) emerge as very common natural ingredients in cosmetics and toiletries as a result of both their odorous character for the design and manufacturing of fragrances and perfumes, and the many beneficial properties of their individual components (EOCs), e.g., anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, and, nowadays, the cosmetic industry includes EOs or different mixtures of their individual components (EOCs), either as active ingredients or as preservatives, in various product ranges (e.g., moisturizers, lotions and cleanser in skin care cosmetics; conditioners, masks or antidandruff products in hair care products; lipsticks, or fragrances in perfumery). However, the unique chemical profile of each individual essential oil is associated with different benefits, and hence it is difficult to generalize their potential applications in cosmetics and toiletries, which often require the effort of formulators in seeking suitable mixtures of EOs or EOCs for obtaining specific benefits in the final products. This work presents an updated review of the available literature related to the most recent advances in the application of EOs and EOCs in the manufacturing of cosmetic products. Furthermore, some specific aspects related to the safety of EOs and EOCs in cosmetics will be discussed. It is expected that the information contained in this comprehensive review can be exploited by formulators in the design and optimization of cosmetic formulations containing botanical extracts.

Potential use of essential oils in cosmetic and dermatological hair products: A review

BACKGROUND

Essential oils have great interest among the increasing demand for herbal cosmetics in the market. They are natural sources of biologically active ingredients due to the wide application of such compounds as well as their particular chemical composition. Several researches have evaluated the effectiveness of these bioactive ingredients for use in cosmeceuticals, mainly in both hair scalp and shaft hair damage repair. Thus, the amounts and their associations define the properties of these compositions with interest for hair cosmetic use, such as antioxidant, inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities. Because they are complex compounds, their actions on the skin, hair scalp, and shaft are not yet fully understood.

AIMS

The purpose of this review is to highlight the relevant researches and findings on essential oils in hair care.

METHODS

In order to achieve this objective, the present work comprises an updated bibliographic review related to essential oils used in hair care.

RESULTS

It was possible to observe that cosmeceuticals containing essential oils applied to the scalp are preferable for topical activity. Also, it was noticed that there are few reports regarding their use in hair shaft. However, it was found that some oils are used to intensify the brightness and fix the hair color.

CONCLUSIONS

This work demonstrated that the use of essential oils in both cosmetic products (industrial application) and those associated with oils carriers (as individual protocols) may lead to satisfactory results in the treatment of some scalp dysfunctions.

Essential oils: from prevention to treatment of skin cancer

The increasing incidence of cutaneous malignancies signifies the need for multiple treatment options. Several available reviews have emphasized the potential role of various botanical extracts and naturally occurring compounds as anti-skin-cancer agents. Few studies relate to the role of chemoprevention and therapeutic activity of essential oils (EOs) and EO components. The present review summarizes an overview of chemopreventive, anti-melanoma and anti-nonmelanoma activities of EOs from various plants and EO components in in vitro and in vivo models with special emphasis on skin cancer. Also, the mechanisms by which EOs and EO components exert their effects to induce cell death are presented.