Physicochemical Properties of α-Form Hydrated Crystalline Phase of 3-(10-Carboxydecyl)-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl Trisiloxane/Higher alcohol/Polyoxyethylene (5 mol) Glyceryl monostearate/Water System

Controlling the formation of ionic complex vesicles through double-tailed surfactants

OBJECTIVE

Liposomes are often used in cosmetics since they are naturally derived and have excellent texture enhancing capabilities. However, when preparing them by using phospholipids with unsaturated acyl groups, they easily suffer from oxidative degradation. Accordingly, hydrogenated phospholipids are preferred, however, it is difficult to prepare stable liposomes due to its high gel-liquid crystalline phase transition temperature. On the other hand, although dialkyl dimethyl ammonium type cationic surfactants are widely known to form vesicles, they have rarely been used for skincare products except for water-in-oil type emulsion creams stabilized by organically modified clay minerals. We decided to overcome all of the problems above through ionic complex vesicles formed by double-tailed cationic and anionic surfactants.

METHODS

Distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DSAC) and sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (DLGL) were selected as cationic and anionic surfactants, respectively. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering (SWAXS) measurements were performed to confirm the DSAC/DLGL/water ternary phase diagram. Newly developed ionic complex vesicle formation was confirmed by cryogenic transmission electron microscopy (cryo-TEM). The adsorbed cosmetic film structure on the skin in vivo was evaluated through the polarized infrared external reflection (PIR-ER). Finally, a cosmetic lotion formula was developed and the vesicle size was determined by dynamic light scattering (DLS).

RESULTS

DSC and SWAXS data indicated that stable vesicles could be obtained at a molar ratio of DLGL to DSAC = 6:4. At this molar ratio, multi lamellar vesicles with diameters less than 100 nm were observed through cryo-TEM. PIR-ER data revealed that the developed vesicles formed a highly perpendicular orientation to the human skin surface. We have succeeded in formulating a cosmetic lotion containing developed vesicles with a mean diameter of 63.2 nm, which was stable over 1 month at 0, 37, and 50°C.

CONCLUSIONS

Our newly developed vesicles can be easily obtained through a coagulation process. Also, the adsorbed film structure supported by PIR-ER experiments implies that the developed lotion has an excellent texture that is the same as cosmetic lotions containing liposomes. Therefore, it's possible that this ionic complex vesicle could take the place of liposomes.

Effects of Counterion on the Formation and Hydration Behavior of α-Form Hydrated Crystals (α-Gels)

α-Form hydrated crystals form a lamellar gel in which the alkyl chains of the amphiphilic molecules are hexagonally arranged within bilayers below the gel-liquid crystal phase transition temperature. In practice, the lamellar gel network with excess water is called an "α-gel", particularly in the cosmetics industry. In this study, the hydration or water sorption of amphiphilic materials in water vapor was assessed using a humidity-controlled quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation monitoring (QCM-D) technique. The amphiphilic materials used in this study were hexadecyl phosphate salts neutralized with L-arginine (C16P-Arg), CsOH (C16P-Cs), KOH (C16P-K), and NaOH (C16P-Na). Small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering measurements revealed that C16P-Arg and C16P-Cs yielded α-form hydrated crystals. Humidity-controlled QCM-D measurements demonstrated that C16P-Arg and C16P-Cs more readily underwent hydration or water sorption than C16P-K and C16P-Na. The key conclusion is that the significant hydration ability of C16P-Arg and C16P-Cs promotes the formation of the corresponding α-form hydrated crystals.

Structural Change of an α-Gel (α-Form Hydrated Crystal) Induced by Temperature and Shear Flow in an Oleic Acid Based Gemini Surfactant System

We studied the effects of temperature and shear flow on the structures of α-gel bilayers and domains. The α-gel samples were prepared by a carboxylate-type gemini surfactant synthesized from oleic acid and a long-chain alcohol (1-tetradecanol) with water. The structural change as a function of temperature was investigated using small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering (SWAXS) measurements, spin-spin relaxation time (T₂) measurements, and optical microscopy observations. SWAXS measurements suggested that the decreased temperature yielded the α-gel phase from a lamellar liquid-crystal phase. We also found that the lamellar d-spacing drastically decreased at the phase transition temperature. The T₂ measurements suggested that two kinds of protons with different mobilities coexisted in amphiphiles consisting of lamellar bilayers. The abundance of the protons with low mobility increased with decreasing temperature. Optical microscopy results indicated that the size of the α-gel domains increased with decreasing temperature. We assumed that the increased abundance of the low-mobility protons, indicating low flexibility of lamellar bilayers, led to a decreased lamellar d-spacing and increased size of the α-gel domains. Shear-induced structural changes in the α-gel were also studied using simultaneous small-angle neutron scattering and rheological measurements. The α-gel can maintain bilayer structures even at high shear rates. We also found that the lamellar d-spacing was independent of the shear rate.

Control of Lipid Self-Assembled Structures & Assessment of Lipid Membrane Fluidity by Fluorescence Spectroscopy

It is well known that lipids form various kinds of self-assembled structures. First, lipid nanoparticles dispersed with hydroxy propyl methyl cellulose acetate succinate (HPMCAS) were introduced. The influence of polymers on the lipid self-assembled structures was evaluated by small and wide angle X-ray scattering (SWAXS). Self-assembled structures containing higher alcohols have attracted much attention in the cosmetic industry. The α-form hydrated crystalline phase (often called α-gel) is one of the hydrated crystalline phases which can be exhibited by surfactants and higher alcohols. As surfactants in this study, an ionic complex or a silicone type were used. This review also reports the lipid membrane fluidity by using fluorescence spectroscopy.