Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti-ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin-conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.

Design, physico-chemical properties and biological evaluation of some new N-[(phenoxy)alkyl]- and N-{2-[2-(phenoxy)ethoxy]ethyl}aminoalkanols as anticonvulsant agents

A series of thirty N-(phenoxy)alkyl or N-{2-[2-(phenoxy)ethoxy]ethyl}aminoalkanols has been designed, synthesized and evaluated for anticonvulsant activity in MES, 6Hz test, and pilocarpine-induced status epilepticus. Among the title compounds, the most promising seems R-(-)-2N-{2-[2-(2,6-dimethylphenoxy)ethoxy]ethyl}aminopropan-1-ol hydrochloride (22a) with proved absolute configuration with X-ray analysis and enantiomeric purity. The compound is effective in MES test with ED50=12.92 mg/kg b.w. and its rotarod TD50=33.26 mg/kg b.w. The activity dose is also effective in a neurogenic pain model-the formalin test. Within high throughput profile assay, among eighty one targets, the strongest affinity of the compound is observed towards σ receptors and 5-HT transporter and the compound does not bind to hERG. It also does not exhibit mutagenic properties in the Vibrio harveyi test. Moreover, murine liver microsomal assay and pharmacokinetics profile (mice, iv, p.o., ip) indicate that the liver is the primary site of biotransformation of the compound, suggesting that both 22a and its metabolite(s) are active, compensating probably low bioavailability of the parent molecule.