A comparison between silicone free and silicone-based emulsions: technological features and in vivo evaluation

Objective

Nowadays, the use of silicones in cosmetic formulation is still controversial, given that “natural” or “biodegradable” components are preferred. Often, the exclusion and/or the discrimination of these excipients from cosmetic field are unmotivated because all things cannot be painted with the same brush. Hence, we want to bring to light and underline the advantages of including silicones in cosmetic emulsions, refuting and debunking some myths related to their use.

Methods

Silicone‐free and silicone‐based emulsions were obtained within an easy homogenization process. Droplet size distribution was assessed by laser diffraction particle size analyser Mastersizer 2000™, and by optical microscopy. The long‐time stability profiles were investigated thanks to the optical analyser Turbiscan® Lab Expert. Diffusing wave spectroscopy (DWS) by Rheolaser Master™ and frequency sweep measurements by Kinexus® Pro Rotational Rheometer were carried out to assess a full rheological characterization. In vivo studies were carried out by the evaluation of Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) over time on healthy human volunteers. A skin feeling rating was collected from the same volunteers by questionnaire.

Results

From size distribution analysis, a better coherence of data appeared for silicone‐based emulsion, as the size of the droplets was kept unchanged after 1 month, as well as the uniformity parameter. Morphological investigation confirmed a homogenous droplet distribution for both samples. Silicones enhanced the viscosity, compactness and strength of the cream, providing a suitable stability profile both at room temperature and when heated at 40°C. The solid‐like viscoelastic behaviour was assessed in the presence of dynamic oscillatory stresses. The monitoring of TEWL over time demonstrated non‐occlusive properties of emulsions containing silicones, the values of which were comparable to the negative control. Silicone‐based emulsions gained higher scores from the volunteers in silkiness, freshness and softness features, while lower scores were obtained in greasiness compared to silicone‐free emulsions. No cases of irritation were recorded by the candidates.

Conclusion

The presence of specific silicones inside a cosmetic product improved its technological characteristics. The rheological identity and the stability feature showed the real suitability of prepared emulsion as a cosmetic product. Moreover, this study demonstrated that silicone‐based emulsions are safe for the skin and did not cause skin occlusion. Improved skin sensations are registered by potential consumers when silicones are included in the formulation.

Design and Characterization of Glyceryl Monooleate-Nanostructures Containing Doxorubicin Hydrochloride

Glyceryl monooleate (GMO) is one of the most popular amphiphilic lipids, which, in the presence of different amounts of water and a proper amount of stabilizer, can promote the development of well defined, thermodynamically stable nanostructures, called lyotropic liquid crystal dispersions. The aim of this study is based on the design, characterization, and evaluation of the cytotoxicity of lyotropic liquid crystal nanostructures containing a model anticancer drug such as doxorubicin hydrochloride. The drug is efficiently retained by the GMO nanosystems by a remote loading approach. The nanostructures prepared with different non-ionic surfactants (poloxamers and polysorbates) are characterized by different physico-chemical features as a function of several parameters, i.e., serum stability, temperature, and different pH values, as well as the amount of cryoprotectants used to obtain suitable freeze-dried systems. The nanostructures prepared with poloxamer 407 used as a stabilizer show an increased toxicity of the entrapped drug on breast cancer cell lines (MCF-7 and MDA-MB-231) due to their ability to sensitize multidrug-resistant (MDR) tumor cells through the inhibition of specific drug efflux transporters. Moreover, the interaction between the nanostructures and the cells occurs after just a few hours, evidencing a huge cellular uptake of the nanosystems.