The effect of vehicle on skin absorption of Mg2+ and Ca2+ from thermal spring water

OBJECTIVE

Thermal spring waters (TSW) are commonly used as active ingredients in cosmetics. Their biological activities directly depend on the ionic composition of the spring. However, in order to exhibit beneficial properties, the minerals need to reach viable skin layers. The present study addresses the incorporation of marketed TSW in model cosmetic formulations and the impact of the formulation on skin absorption of magnesium and calcium ions that are known to improve skin barrier function.

METHODS

Marketed TSW was introduced into five formulations. Liposomes were prepared using saturated or unsaturated phospholipids mixed with cholesterol by the thin layer evaporation technique. Emulsions water-in-oil (W/O), oil-in-water (O/W) or double: water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) were prepared by high-shear mixing. Skin absorption of Mg²⁺ and Ca²⁺ from those formulations was studied in vitro using static Franz diffusion cells under infinite dose condition and under occlusion of the apparatus.

RESULTS

Mg²⁺ and Ca²⁺ penetrate skin samples from TSW. Encapsulating TSW into double emulsion (TSW/O/W) increased skin absorption of both cations of interest and kept the Ca²⁺ /Mg²⁺ ratio equal to that of TSW in each skin layer. The dermal absorption of Mg²⁺ from the double emulsion departs from both single emulsions. Application of liposome suspension improved the skin absorption of Ca²⁺ while keeping constant that of Mg²⁺ , leading to unbalanced Ca²⁺ /Mg²⁺ ratio inside skin.

CONCLUSION

The beneficial effects of TSW are not only due to their action on the skin surface. Their active components, especially Ca²⁺ and Mg²⁺ cations, reach viable skin layers in a formulation-dependent manner. The distribution of ions inside skin depends on the type of formulation.

Formulation of survival acceptor medium able to maintain the viability of skin explants over in vitro dermal experiments

OBJECTIVE

In vitro assessments of skin absorption of xenobiotics are essential for toxicological evaluations and bioavailability studies of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients. Since skin metabolism can greatly contribute to xenobiotic absorption, experiments need to be performed with skin explants kept viable in suitable survival media. Existing protocols for non-viable skin are modified to consider those conditions. The objective was to design a survival medium used as an acceptor fluid in Franz cells for testing cutaneous penetration of hydrophilic or lipophilic molecules. Their metabolism inside skin may be investigated under the same conditions. The determining factors involved in survival mechanisms in vitro are discussed. The consequences of short-term skin preservation at 4°C were also evaluated.

METHODS

The metabolic activity of fresh skin samples mounted in Franz cells was studied by measurement of lactate release over 24 h in order to assess the impacts of pH, buffering, osmolality, ionic strength, initial glucose supply and the addition of ethanol or non-ionic surfactant in the acceptor part of Franz cells.

CONCLUSION

Survival media must maintain physiological pH (>5.5) be isotonic with skin cells (300 mOsm kg^-1 ) and contain at least 0.5 g L^-1 glucose. Several compositions able to preserve skin metabolism are reported. Storage of skin explants overnight at 4°C impairs skin metabolic activity. The present work provides guidelines for designing survival media according to constraints related to the scientific requirements of the experiments.