Switching from healthy to unhealthy oxidative stress - does the radical type can be used as an indicator?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation leads to the formation of free radicals, which may cause immunological modulations, skin aging or skin cancer. Sunlight exposure in the UVA region according to CIE 85 promotes almost 46% of radical formation in skin. A critical radical concentration characterized by the inversion of the domination of primary ROS (reactive oxygen species) to an excess of secondary LOS (lipid oxygen species) is proven for the spectral regions UV and or VIS light and is intended to be a marker for an imbalance in the redox system, which can no longer compensate harmful effects. To investigate whether this transition point is also universally valid for one spectral region, the radical formation during and after targeted UVA in situ-irradiation at 365 ± 5 nm and three different irradiances (31, 94 and 244 mW/cm²) was investigated in ex vivo porcine skin using x-band electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy. The quantification was performed with the spin probe 3-(carboxy)-2,2,5,5-tetramethylpyrrolidin-1-oxyl (PCA), the spin trap 5,5-Dimethyl-1-Pyrroline-N-Oxide (DMPO) was used to characterize the radical species. Furthermore, the viability of the skin cells after irradiation was controlled by an MTT [3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide] assay, skin integrity was examined by histological analysis. A significant dose dependence in the radical formation is given at higher irradiance. The transition point was detected in the range of 0.5 MED after irradiation with the highest irradiance. From this point on the proportion of LOS increases with increasing dose and the proportion of ROS decreases. After switching off the UVA irradiation no further quantitative changes were detected, but rapid changes in the radical pattern were observed demonstrating the importance of in situ irradiation during the use of spin traps. Heat-pre-stressed skin showed more LOS than ROS already at the beginning of the irradiation, leading to the assumption that the transition point to the distress-level has already been reached. In summary, a postulated transition point could be verified for the UVA spectral region using only one spin trap combined with in-situ irradiation. A certain degree of stress is necessary to detect an inversion of the ratio of ROS to LOS. This reversal indicates an imbalance in the redox status. However, at low intensities no changes at all in radical pattern appeared over time (dose), probably it can be compensated by adaptation processes of the skin.

Multicenter methodology comparison of the FDA and ISO standard for measurement of in vitro UVA protection of sunscreen products

In vitro standard methods are available and accepted worldwide to assess UVA protection of sunscreen products. Though, harmonisation of methods has made progress in the last decade, still two differing methods - one by FDA the other by ISO - are in use. In a multicentre study including 9 centres in Germany, 4 different commercial sunscreen products were assessed using both methods to discover their similarities and differences. UVA protection factor and Critical Wavelength were detected at various substrate type (sandblasted versus moulded PMMA plates), at different surface roughness of the plates as well as at different product application dose using two different irradiation spectra. Results: The strongest influence on UVA protection factor results from the surface roughness of the plates. Depending on the roughness (accepted range of 2 to 7 μm in the FDA method) a variability in the UVA protection factor of up to 25% was observed, while the much narrower definition of plate roughness by ISO (4.5 to 5.2 μm) had no relevant influence on the test results. Sandblasted plates in our assessment led to higher UVA protection factors and produced less scattered results compared to moulded plates. These differences were not pronounced. Application dose and spectra of the irradiation source were of negligible influence on UVA protection factor results for the investigated UV-filter combinations. The UVA protection factor which is the endpoint of the ISO method was found to be a parameter with a high potential to differentiate among different test products. The endpoint of the FDA method - the Critical Wavelength - was found to be an unambitious endpoint. Insensitivity to all described modifications of the method was observed. All investigated products performed similar and passed the Critical Wavelength criteria independent of method and parameters.

Hautkrebsprävention und Sonnenschutzcreme: ein Update

In den letzten Jahren sind die Hautkrebsraten weltweit gestiegen. Die Anwendung von Sonnenschutzmitteln ist eine weit verbreitete Strategie in der Prävention gegen Hautkrebs, Sonnenbrand und Photoalterung. Es sollten kombinierte Breitbandfiltersysteme mit hoher Wirkung gegen UV-B- und UV-A-Strahlung eingesetzt werden. Weitere Studien sind notwendig, um die Entwicklung von Sonnenschutzmitteln gegen die ebenfalls schädlichen IRA-Strahlen voranzutreiben. Obwohl die regelmäßige Anwendung von Sonnenschutzmitteln ein wesentlicher Bestandteil in der Hautkrebsprävention ist, sollten insbesondere bei Kindern kombinierte Schutzmaßnahmen angewendet werden: Sonnenkarenz bei starker Sonneneinstrahlung, textiler Sonnenschutz, Aufenthalt im Schatten und die Anwendung von Sonnenschutzmitteln.

[New aspects in the development of sunscreening agents]

Sunlight is indispensable for life. Skin aging is determined not only by genetic factors but also by the influence of solar radiation which in all its spectral regions induces free radicals in the human skin. Below a critical concentration, free radicals are important for signaling processes in the human body. Exceeding a critical threshold value (FRTV), however, free radicals lead to cellular damage which, in turn, can induce skin aging, immunosuppression and even skin cancer. Recently it could be shown that 50% of the free radicals induced in the human skin by solar radiation were caused by the visible and infrared spectral regions. Taking into consideration that people who use sunscreen stay considerably longer in the sun than unprotected people, their skin could be exposed to free radical formation in the visible and infrared spectral regions, which far exceeds the critical threshold. Filter substances like those used in sunscreens for skin protection in the ultraviolet region are not available for the visible and infrared spectral regions. Using the natural protection mechanisms of the human skin as examples, however, the protective effect of sunscreens can be considerably enhanced by the addition of scattering and reflective pigments, such as titanium dioxide, as well as of antioxidants which neutralize the free radicals. Currently the focus of sunscreen development is shifting from mere UV protection to protection covering the entire solar spectrum.

The effectiveness of molecular oxygen in cosmetic formulations

Synopsis In a preliminary clinical study, two cosmetic preparations were compared, one without an oxygen carrier and therefore without oxygen, the other one containing the oxygen carrier, fully saturated with oxygen. The parameters measured were the moisture content of the skin and the skin profile. Since the oxygen-free product contained the same ingredients, including phospholipids in liposomal form, with the exception of perfluorodecalin - the oxygen carrier, this investigation showed that perfluorodecalin plus molecular oxygen improves the barrier function of the skin. In a second clinical study, five cosmetic preparations containing various amounts of molecular oxygen from 1.44 ml to 4.5 ml per 100 ml product were compared. The parameters measured were the oxygen partial pressure of the skin, the moisture content of the skin, and the skin profile. A linear dose-dependent increase in oxygen partial pressure of the skin (r=0.978) and a linear dose-dependent reduction in fine lines and wrinkles (r=0.9855) was found. The results for the increase in skin moisture were more difficult to interpret. There seemed to be an overlap of the moisturizing base with the efficacy coming from the increasing amount of oxygen per application.

Use of a serum-free reconstituted epidermis as a skin pharmacological model

This study is aimed at assessing some of the possibilities offered by a new kind of three-dimensional skin culture in the field of toxicity and skin inflammation. The Reconstituted Epidermis used is presently the only skin model on the market in which normal human keratinocytes are allowed to grow and to differentiate in a chemically defined culture medium. The response of this original tissue to chemical (anionic and cationic surfactants) and physical (UVB radiation) insults was compared with human keratinocytes in monolayer culture and assessed through histological analysis, cell viability quantification and interleukin-1alpha (IL-1alpha) release measurement. For the surfactants and the UVB radiation a clear relationship was shown between the amount of IL-1alpha released and both the cell viability and the histological appearance of the skin. Sublethal doses of UV radiation induced exclusively an increase of intracellular amount of IL-1alpha, the magnitude of which seemed to be time dependent. The irritating potential of various kinds of cosmetic creams was then assessed using this skin model and compared with human irritation data. The intensity of erythema and oedema induced by a 48-hr human patch test was consistent with the amount of IL-1alpha secreted in the medium, the histological appearance of the Reconstituted Epidermis and the cell viability.

Uptake of antioxidants by natural nutrition and supplementation: pros and cons from the dermatological point of view

The pros and cons of the systemic and topical application of antioxidant substances are a subject of intense discussion among experts, with resulting confusion for consumers and producers. The objective of the present article is to clarify the various uncertainties relating to the use of antioxidant substances in dermatology. Whereas inappropriate application of antioxidant substances (concerning their concentration and composition) might induce harmful effects, the consumer will definitively benefit from physiological concentrations and compositions of antioxidants. The most suitable method is the consumption of natural antioxidants in the form of fruit and vegetables, for example. In addition, the skin, which also accumulates antioxidant substances, may profit from a sufficient antioxidative level, as damage induced by sun radiation in addition to skin aging is reduced.

[UV, visible and infrared light. Which wavelengths produce oxidative stress in human skin?]

Experimental evidence suggests that the creation of free radicals--mainly reactive oxygen species (ROS)--is the common photobiological answer to the skin-sunlight interaction. The free radical action spectrum (wavelength dependency) for ultraviolet and visible light (280-700 nm) has been determined by quantitative ESR spectroscopy. Visible light produces around 50% of the total oxidative stress caused by sunlight. Reactive species like *O(-)(2), *OH and *CHR are generated by visible light. The amount of ROS correlates with the visible light intensity (illuminance). We demonstrated the creation of excess free radicals by near-infrared light (NIR, 700-1600 nm). Free radical generation does not depend exclusively on the NIR irradiance, but also on the NIR initiated skin temperature increase. The temperature dependence follows the physiological fever curve. Our results indicate that the complex biological system skin creates the same type of free radicals over the entire active solar spectrum. This general response will make it possible to define the beneficial or deleterious action of sunlight on human skin by introduction of a free radical threshold value.

Effect of Supplemented and Topically Applied Antioxidant Substances on Human Tissue

Systemic and topical application of antioxidant substances for the medical treatment and prophylaxis of many diseases as well as additional protection of the skin against the destructive action of free radicals and other reactive species has become very popular during the past years. Stimulated by the positive results of a fruit and vegetable diet in supporting medical treatment and in cosmetics, artificial and extracted antioxidant substances have been broadly applied. Surprisingly, not only positive but also strong negative results have been obtained by different authors. According to study reports artificial and extracted antioxidant substances support different kinds of medical therapies, if they are applied in mixtures of different compounds at low concentration levels. In the case of the application of high concentration of some single compounds, side effects were often observed. Regarding skin treatment by systemically applied antioxidant substances for cosmetic purposes, positive cosmetic effects as well as no effects, but almost no side effects, apart from a number of allergic reactions, were reported. One reason for this seems to be the lower concentration of systemically applied antioxidant substances in comparison with a medical application. Topical application of antioxidant substances is closely related to cosmetic treatment for skin protection and anti-aging. Positive results were also obtained in this case. The present review is an attempt to classify and summarize the published literature concerning the efficiency of action of systemic and topical applications of antioxidant substances, such as carotenoids and vitamins, on human organism and especially on the skin. The available literature on this topic is very extensive and the results are often contradictory. Nevertheless, there are some clear tendencies concerning systemic and topical application of antioxidant substances in medicine and cosmetics, and we summarize them in the present paper.

Reconstituted human corneal epithelium: a new alternative to the Draize eye test for the assessment of the eye irritation potential of chemicals and cosmetic products

The aim of this study was to evaluate the interest of a new three-dimensional epithelial model cultivated from human corneal cells to replace animal testing in the assessment of eye tolerance. To this end, 65 formulated cosmetic products and 36 chemicals were tested by means of this in vitro model using a simplified toxicokinetic approach. The chemicals were selected from the ECETOC data bank and the EC/HO International validation study list. Very satisfactory results were obtained in terms of concordance with the Draize test data for the formulated cosmetic products. Moreover, the response of the corneal model appeared predictive of human ocular response clinically observed by ophthalmologists. The in vitro scores for the chemicals tested strongly correlated with their respective scores in vivo. For all the compounds tested, the response of the corneal model to irritants was similar regardless of their chemical structure, suggesting a good robustness of the prediction model proposed. We concluded that this new three-dimensional epithelial model, developed from human corneal cells, could be promising for the prediction of eye irritation induced by chemicals and complex formulated products, and that these two types of materials should be tested using a similar protocol. A simple shortening of the exposure period was required for the chemicals assumed to be more aggressively irritant to the epithelial tissues than the cosmetic formulae.

Integrated Sun Protection Factor: A New Sun Protection Factor Based on Free Radicals Generated by UV Irradiation

The present work uses the initial step of the whole cascade of biological effects in the skin, the creation of free radicals by means of UVA/UVB radiation, to develop a total sun protection factor. Until now, existing in vivo indices have not been fully satisfying: SPF only reflects protection from UVB light, and persistent pigment darkening is restricted to the UVA part of the sun spectrum. The quantitative measurement of free radicals generated in human skin biopsies by means of electron spin resonance X-band spectroscopy allows to determine a new total SPF. This new sun protection index covers all UVA/UVB wavelengths taking into account their effects in the epidermis as well as the dermis. Use of skin biopsies avoids exposure of human volunteers to potentially harmful radiations. The new index is always practically equal or lower than the in vivo SPF depending on the level of a product's UVA/UVB photoprotection balance. With this, we propose to name this new protection index 'integrated sun protection factor'.

Sunscreen application at the beach

BACKGROUND

The sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreens is determined after application of a standard amount. The European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (COLIPA) standard amount is 2 mg/cm(2). Real-life application of sunscreen is probably less than this.

AIM

To determine the amount of sunscreen present on the skin of people at the beach.

METHODS

Volunteers at the beach were selected randomly and were not aware of being tested for the adequacy of their sunscreen application. All volunteers had applied sunscreen. Application had been more than 30 min before testing (sometimes up to 4 h earlier). The amounts of sunscreen applied to different body sites were determined quantitatively by tape stripping. Actual amounts of sunscreen applied were compared with the COLIPA standard. Also, sunscreen containing a fluorescent dye was applied to the skin of volunteers in a laboratory setting. The distribution of sunscreen application was visualized by UVA photography in a darkened room.

RESULTS

Sixty volunteers, 33 males and 27 females, aged 17-68 years (median 32 years), were recruited at the beach. Sunscreen coverage was inadequate at all body sites. Coverage at various body sites differed greatly. Most volunteers had applied 10% or less of the COLIPA standard amount to all body sites assessed. The best protected areas were the upper arm and décolleté but, even in these areas, most volunteers had only applied 10% of the COLIPA standard amount. The worst protected areas were the ears and top of the feet. The back was typically badly protected if treated by the volunteers themselves. The back was better protected if another person had applied the sunscreen. In the laboratory, the fluorescent dye-containing sunscreen showed the same pattern of sunscreen application as at the beach.

CONCLUSIONS

In real life, at the beach, very little sunscreen remains present on the skin.

Efficiency of a continuous height distribution model of sunscreen film geometry to predict a realistic sun protection factor

Irregularities in the geometry of sunscreen films spread on rough areas, like skin, is often presented as being the main cause of the degree of UV absorption achieved by the UV filters that are inside. Until now, only the step film, a model invented by O'Neill, was simple enough to calculate UV data close to in vitro experimental data, after determination of a limited number of fraction areas with their corresponding thickness. However, such models are obviously too simple to represent a real situation. In the present work, more complex distributions of film thickness were calculated, with an infinite number of individual heights. Realistic models were achieved via a probability function. The consequences for UV absorption were deduced, and the calculated UV data were compared to experimental in vitro data on sunscreen products measured after being spread on a roughened PMMA substrate. The latter substrate was previously selected for its ability to achieve a good correlation with in vivo SPF. An optimized version of the continuous mathematical model was finally determined in order to achieve UV curves, similar in shape and intensity to the experimental ones. The latter model can be used to predict realistic SPF values.

Electron spin resonance detection of UVA-induced free radicals

Free radicals generated during UV irradiation of human skin biopsies were measured with electron spin resonance spectroscopy by using spin traps. The generation of hydroxyl and lipid radicals in skin is mainly caused by the UVA part of the solar spectrum.