Evaluation of an advanced antioxidant and double-conjugated retinoid/AHA cream in participants with FST IV-V

BACKGROUND

Topical antioxidants and retinoids are foundational components of an effective skincare regimen. Pyrroloquinoline quinone (PQQ) is a potent free radical scavenger that supports efficient mitochondrial energy creation. An advanced antioxidant combines topical allyl PQQ with existing WEL antioxidant technology (TAP) to comprehensively address extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging. In conjunction with TAP, a double-conjugated retinoid/alpha hydroxy acid (AHA-Ret) designed to minimize irritation and optimize delivery was used over 12 weeks to improve the appearance of photodamaged skin.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Twice-daily application of TAP and nightly application of AHA-Ret was evaluated in female participants aged 40-65 years with FST IV-V and mild (3) to moderate (6) facial photodamage using a 10-point grading scale. Visible improvements from baseline in lines/wrinkles, skin texture, skin tone, skin dullness and erythema were assessed using a six-point grading scale (0 = None to 5 = Severe). Adverse Events (AEs) were captured throughout the study period.

RESULTS

Participants (N = 21; mean age, 56 years) equally represented mild and moderate photodamage, and FST IV and V (41%, Hispanic; 36%, African American; and 32%, Caucasian). Significant mean improvements from baseline occurred in skin dullness, skin texture, and skin tone (all, p < 0.0001), and significant mean reductions from baseline were demonstrated in erythema and melanin at Week 12. Mild, transient AEs were reported. No participant discontinued study participation due to an AE.

CONCLUSIONS

A skincare regimen comprised of an advanced antioxidant and AHA-Ret cream, in conjunction with daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 56), led to significant improvements at 12 weeks in the appearance of photodamaged skin in females with FST IV and V.

A Multi-center Trial Evaluating a Serum Comprised of Plant-based Adaptogens Targeting Skin Quality

Objective

The ability of the skin to maintain homeostasis declines with age. Adaptogens support the capacity of the skin to respond to stress. We sought to evaluate the efficacy of a novel serum comprised of plant-based adaptogens for improving photoaged skin following twice-daily application.

Methods

A multi-center, 12-week trial was conducted in participants aged 45 to 65 years, Fitzpatrick Skin Type (FST) I to VI, with mild-to-severe photoaging based on a 10-point grading scale (3 [Minimum] to 7 [Maximum]). Visible improvements were assessed in erythema, pore size, skin dullness, skin texture, and uneven pigmentation utilizing a six-point grading scale (0=None to 5=Severe). Global skin quality was measured utilizing our Global Skin Quality Index (GSQI). Sebum measurements were obtained in a subset of participants. Patient satisfaction and tolerability were recorded throughout the study.

Results

Fifty-three participants were enrolled and completed the study. Mean age was 56 years and 66 percent were White, 17 percent were Black, 8 percent were Hispanic, 6 percent were Asian/Pacific Islander, and 81 percent had moderate photodamage. At Week 12, significant mean percent improvements from baseline were demonstrated in erythema (50%), dullness (44%), texture (52%), pore size (23%), and uneven pigmentation (21%; all p<.0001). Significant GSQI improvements from baseline were observed at Week 12 (39%; p<0.0001). Significant mean reductions from baseline in skin surface sebum were demonstrated at Week 12 (-38%; p<0.0001). All adverse events (AEs) were mild and transient.

Conclusion

A novel serum comprised of plant-based adaptogens, demonstrated improvements from baseline in the appearance of erythema, dullness, texture, pore size, uneven pigmentation, and global skin quality over 12 weeks. Participants reported high levels of satisfaction, with mild, transient AEs reported.

Best practices in the treatment of melasma with a focus on patients with skin of color

BACKGROUND

Melasma is a chronic hypermelanosis of the skin that affects approximately 1% of the global population, predominantly affects women, and is more prevalent in skin of color. Melasma is a common driver for patients with skin of color to seek out a dermatologist for treatment, and ensuring the right approach for these patients is important because some treatments may be associated with adverse side effects. Because of the chronicity of the disease and established psychosocial and emotional impacts, there is a large need to ensure care follows the best available evidence on the treatment of patients with melasma.

OBJECTIVE

Here, we summarized current available topical treatments for melasma with considerations dermatologists should have for their patients with skin of color.

METHODS

Steering committee consensus on clinical best practices.

RESULTS

We describe a flexible and focused treatment algorithm that reflects both treatment and maintenance periods that is a consensus of our extensive clinical experience.

LIMITATIONS

Use of real-world evidence and potential for individual practice bias.

CONCLUSION

Melasma can be challenging to treat, particularly in patients with skin of color, and our recommendations for best practices for patients in the United States are an important step toward standardizing care.

Dermatology's role in the fight against human trafficking: A report from the AAD Ad Hoc Task Force and call to action

While the majority of American Academy of Dermatology members have some broad awareness of human trafficking, most are not aware of it in their communities or of the skin signs that could prompt identification of those being exploited, and have requested educational resources to assist patients affected by trafficking. The American Academy of Dermatology Ad Hoc Task Force on Dermatologic Resources for the Intervention and Prevention of Human Trafficking has been working to develop relevant resources, including an online toolkit on the American Academy of Dermatology website: https://www.aad.org/member/clinical-quality/clinical-care/human-trafficking.

Gene Expression Analysis of a Topical Serum Comprised of Plant-based Adaptogens Developed to Support Homeostasis and Skin Quality

Objective

A topical serum comprised of plant-based adaptogens was purposefully developed to support the ability of the skin to adapt and achieve balance. The study described herein evaluated changes in the expression of target genes related to skin homeostasis following topical exposure.

Methods

Utilizing an in vitro epidermal skin model, quantitative polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) analysis of gene expression was conducted following 48-hour exposure to 15μL of the study product (MYS serum) to the surface of each tissue (N=4). Biomarkers that play a key role in skin homeostasis were analyzed: Aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR), chloride channel accessory 2 (CLCA2), metallothionein 1A (MT1A), 1F (MT1F), and 1G (MT1G), and thioredoxin reductase 1 (TXNRD1). Statistically significant changes were calculated using unpaired t-test analysis (p<0.05) versus control (saline). A linear Fold Change (FC) value >2 was considered statistically significant.

Results

An 85 percent (FC=1.85) increase in expression of AhR vs. control occurred following exposure to MYS serum indicating enhanced support of cellular and epidermal homeostasis, and the skin barrier's response to stress. Statistically significant increases in expression occurred with TXNRD1 (293%; FC=3.93), MT1A (307%; FC=4.07), MT1F (529%; FC=6.29), and MT1G (163%; FC=12.63) vs. control, indicating support of skin's adaptive response to stress and immune homeostasis. Significantly decreased levels of CLCA2 were demonstrated (69%; FC=-3.24) indicating inhibition of oxidative stress-induced senescence.

Conclusion

Utilizing an in vitro epidermal skin model, a serum comprised of plant-based adaptogens demonstrated changes in the expression of target genes that play important roles in skin's ability to respond to stress and achieve homeostasis.

Cysteamine Isobionic-Amide Complex Versus Kligman's Formula for the Treatment of Melasma: Equal Efficacy and Rapid Onset of Action

BACKGROUND

Modified Kligman's formula (mKF) is the gold standard treatment for melasma; however, its prolonged use is not recommended due to side effects. Cysteamine is a potent, safe, and effective depigmenting agent. Here, we conducted a double-blind, randomized, and placebo-controlled clinical trial to assess the efficacy of cysteamine isobionic-amide -- a complex with enhanced depigmenting efficacy -- and compared it to mKF for the treatment of melasma.

METHODS

This study involved a total of 80 patients divided into 3 groups: cysteamine-isobionic amide, placebo, or mKF. The modified Melasma Area Severity Index (mMASI) score and spectrophotometric evaluation were conducted at baseline, week 4, week 8, and week 16. Dermatological assessment, patients’ feedback, and satisfaction including quality-of-life scores were also collected.

RESULTS

At week 4, cysteamine isobionic-amide and mKF groups showed an equivalent onset of action in terms of mMASI and skin pigmentation contrast reduction. The 2 groups significantly reduced melasma severity and improved the overall skin condition with a comparable efficacy at week 16. Quality of life of melasma patients was significantly improved in the cysteamine isobionic-amide group at week 8 and further at week 16 (P<0.001) compared to the mKF group. Patients’ feedback and satisfaction were higher with the cysteamine isobionic-amide product compared to mKF.

CONCLUSION

Cysteamine isobionic-amide provided a rapid onset of action and was as effective as the mKF for the treatment of melasma. The data suggest that cysteamine isobionic-amide could potentially be an acceptable alternative to mKF for the long-term treatment of melasma. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(2):9-16.  doi:10.36849/JDD.7428.

Decades of beauty: Achieving aesthetic goals throughout the lifespan

BACKGROUND

Several elements, including age, influence judgments of beauty and attractiveness. Aging is affected by intrinsic factors (e.g., genetics, race/ethnicity, anatomical variations) and extrinsic factors (e.g., lifestyle, environment).

AIMS

To provide a general overview of minimally invasive injectable procedures for facial beautification and rejuvenation to meet the aesthetic goals of patients across their lifespan, organized by decade.

METHODS

This case study review describes aesthetic considerations of females in their third to sixth decade of life (i.e., 20-60 years of age or beyond). Each case study reports the treatments, specifically botulinum toxin type A and soft tissue fillers, used to address aesthetic concerns.

RESULTS

Signs of aging, as well as aesthetic goals and motivations, vary by age groups, cultures, and races/ethnicities. However, there are overarching themes that are associated with each decade of life, such as changes in overall facial shape and specific facial regions, which can be used as a starting point for aesthetic treatment planning. Appropriate patient selection, thorough aesthetic evaluation, product knowledge, and injection technique, as well as good physician-patient communication, are essential for optimal treatment outcomes.

CONCLUSIONS

Nonsurgical facial injectable treatments can successfully enhance and rejuvenate facial features across different age ranges. A comprehensive understanding of facial aging and the aesthetic considerations of patients by the decade contributes to optimal treatment planning and maintenance.

Impact of Iron-Oxide Containing Formulations Against Visible Light-Induced Skin Pigmentation in Skin of Color Individuals

Visible light (400-700nm), which contributes to 45% of solar radiation, contributes to skin darkening and worsening of dyschromias, particularly in individuals with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes III and higher. Currently, sunscreens provide limited protection against that spectrum. Due to their capabilities in absorbing, scattering, and reflecting visible light, topical products containing pigments and/or metal oxides can provide additional photoprotection. In this study, the efficacy of two formulations containing iron oxide was evaluated in preventing visible light-induced pigmentation compared with a non-tinted mineral SPF 50+ sunscreen. Expert grading and colorimetry demonstrated that the iron-oxide containing formulations significantly protected against visible light-induced pigmentation compared to untreated skin or mineral SPF 50+ sunscreen in Fitzpatrick IV individuals. These results highlight that iron-oxide containing formulas in a foundation format have dual functions and can provide additional benefits in patients' daily routine by masking existing pigmentation and preventing the development of pigmentation triggered by sunlight exposure, extending protection beyond UV spectrum. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(7): doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.5032 THIS ARTICLE HAD BEEN MADE AVAILABLE FREE OF CHARGE. PLEASE SCROLL DOWN TO ACCESS THE FULL TEXT OF THIS ARTICLE WITHOUT LOGGING IN. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. PLEASE CONTACT THE PUBLISHER WITH ANY QUESTIONS.

PrabotulinumtoxinA for the Treatment of Moderate-to-Severe Glabellar Lines in Adult Patients With Skin of Color: Post Hoc Analyses of the US Phase III Clinical Study Data

BACKGROUND

Limited US clinical data are available on the use of aesthetic products in patients with skin of color (SOC).

OBJECTIVE

To compare the efficacy and safety of prabotulinumtoxinA for the treatment of glabellar lines in patients with and without SOC.

METHODS AND MATERIALS

Post hoc analyses were performed on the pooled population of all 492 patients treated with 20U prabotulinumtoxinA in the 2 US single-dose Phase III glabellar line clinical studies. Patients were grouped by Fitzpatrick skin Type: IV + V + VI (with SOC) versus I + II + III (without SOC). The primary efficacy end point was the proportion of responders with a ≥1-point improvement from baseline at maximum frown on the 4-point Glabellar Line Scale. Adverse events (AEs) were also summarized.

RESULTS

Responder rates among patients with SOC (n = 140) were lower than those without SOC (n = 352), by 5.9% on average across all visits; at no time point were differences statistically significant. At Day 30, responder rates were 94.0% and 96.0%, respectively (p = .401). Headache was the most common treatment-related AE, occurring in 12.1% and 8.2% of patients with and without SOC, respectively.

CONCLUSION

A single dose of 20U prabotulinumtoxinA was well tolerated and similar in effectiveness in patients with and without SOC for the treatment of glabellar lines.

A case of hyperpigmentation induced by hydroxychloroquine and quinacrine in a patient with systemic lupus erythematosus and review of the literature

Hydroxychloroquine (HQ) and quinacrine are widely used antimalarials for systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE) and other autoimmune diseases. We report a case of antimalarial-induced hyperpigmentation in a 57-year old African-American woman. The patient had a long-standing history of SLE that was treated with HQ and quinacrine in varying doses for 16 years. The disease improved considerably and entered remission; however, the patient subsequently developed severe, disseminated hyperpigmentation on her face, trunk, upper and lower extremities. A malar facial biopsy revealed numerous perivascular and scattered interstitial, heavily pigment laden dark brown to black macrophages. The Fontana Masson staining was positive for melanin, and Perl’s stain for iron was negative. This staining pattern, to our knowledge, has only been reported once before in the literature. Our patient represents a rare case of severe recalcitrant hyperpigmentation induced by combination HQ and quinacrine therapy for SLE.

Safety and Effectiveness of VYC-17.5L for Long-Term Correction of Nasolabial Folds

BACKGROUND

Juvéderm Vollure XC (VYC-17.5L; Allergan plc, Dublin, Ireland) belongs to a family of hyaluronic acid gels based on the Vycross technology platform.

OBJECTIVES

The authors sought to evaluate the safety and effectiveness of Vollure for correction of moderate to severe nasolabial folds (NLFs) over 18 months and after repeat treatment.

METHODS

In this prospective, randomized study, patients (N = 123) received initial/touch-up treatment with Vollure in 1 NLF and control filler in the contralateral NLF. Patients received optional repeat treatment with Vollure after month 12, 15, or 18. Assessments included investigator-rated NLF Severity Scale responder rates (≥1-point improvement vs baseline), patient-assessed Appraisal of Nasolabial Folds scale of the FACE-Q questionnaire, and patient satisfaction (11-point scale).

RESULTS

Median volume of Vollure injected was 1.7 mL for initial/touch-up treatment combined and 0.6 mL for repeat treatment. The NLF Severity Scale responder rates were 93%, 85%, and 59% at months 6, 9, and 18 after initial/touch-up treatment and increased to 94% at 1 month after repeat treatment. Mean patient-reported FACE-Q scores significantly improved from baseline at all timepoints. Most patients were very satisfied with treatment at all timepoints from day 3 (75%) through month 18 (68%) and at 1 month after repeat treatment (94%). Common injection site responses after initial/touch-up and repeat treatment were firmness, swelling, and tenderness to touch; most were mild/moderate.

CONCLUSIONS

Vollure was safe and effective for correction of moderate to severe NLFs, with results lasting 18 months in 59% of NLFs. Repeat treatment required one-third of the injection volume to achieve similar improvement in NLF severity as initial/touch-up treatment.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE: 2

In Vitro and In Vivo Efficacy and Tolerability of a Non-Hydroquinone, Multi-Action Skin Tone Correcting Cream

Background: Pigmentation disorders are therapeutically challenging to treat, requiring complicated regimens. Objectives: Alternatives to hydroquinone (HQ) are desired. We evaluated the efficacy and tolerability of a non-HQ multi-action skin tone corrector (ETCS) developed to inhibit melanin production and improve skin quality. Design and Methods: Twice-daily use of ETCS and ETCS + AHA-Ret, a retinoid-based alpha hydroxy acid cream, was evaluated in subjects with mild to severe dyschromia. Digital images were obtained at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks and included assessment of dyschromia, erythema, fine lines/wrinkles, pores, texture, and global improvement. Melanin Index (MI) measurements were obtained at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Subject self-assessments were obtained over the course of the study. Adverse Events (AEs) were collected throughout the study. An extension study evaluated use over 16-weeks. Results: Significant mean reductions from baseline occurred in dyschromia for ETCS (n=42) and ETCS + AHA-Ret (n=10) over 12 weeks (P<0.0001, each). Significant mean reductions from baseline in MI were achieved in both groups at every timepoint (ETCS: P<0.0001; ETCS + AHA-Ret: P<0.02, 4 weeks; P<0.0001, 8 and 12 weeks). Substantial improvements were demonstrated in global improvement, fine lines/wrinkles, erythema, pores, and texture at 12 weeks. Reductions from baseline occurred in dyschromia and MI (P<0.0001, each) at 16 weeks. High levels of subject satisfaction were reported with nearly all subjects reporting reduced appearance of uneven skin tone/discoloration and lightened darker patches, and improvement in overall skin tone. Mild, transient AEs were reported with no discontinuations due to an AE. Conclusions: Twice daily use of ETCS led to early, significant reductions in dyschromia and melanin index. Combination use with a retinoid-based, AHA cream in the evening demonstrated enhanced reductions. ETCS effectively reduced hyperpigmentation, improved overall skin appearance, and was highly tolerable. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(7):642-648.

Vitiligo: Patient stories, self-esteem, and the psychological burden of disease

Vitiligo is a relatively common disorder that is characterized by depigmented patches of skin. Multiple studies characterize the overwhelming psychological burden that is experienced by many patients around the globe. This review examines personal patient stories and the impacts of age, culture, sex, race, and ethnicity in relationship to altered self-esteem and quality of life in patients who live with vitiligo.

Bimatoprost 0.03% Solution for the Treatment of Nonfacial Vitiligo

BACKGROUND

Topical prostaglandin E₂ has shown efficacy in patients with localized, stable vitiligo. Bimatoprost is a synthetic prostamide (prostaglandin-ethanolamides) F₂a analog. Bimatoprost 0.03% ophthalmic solution showed efficacy in the treatment of vitiligo in one small study.<br />

OBJECTIVE

To assess the efficacy and safety of bimatoprost 0.03% alone and in combination with a topical steroid (mometasone) compared with mometasone alone in patients with nonsegmental vitiligo on nonfacial areas in a proof-of-concept study.<br />

METHODS

This randomized, double-blind, controlled study was conducted over a 20-week treatment period. Patients were randomized to 1 of 3 treatment groups: bimatoprost monotherapy (n=11), bimatoprost plus mometasone (n=10), and mometasone plus placebo (n=11). The primary outcome was global response at week 20, based on an investigator's assessment of improvement score of at least 5 (at least 50%-75% improvement from baseline) on an 8-point scale (0=worse; 7=cleared). Other outcomes included global response at other visits, response by anatomic site, change from baseline lesion severity (overall and by site), and safety.<br />

RESULTS

Because of a lack of response observed for the primary end point, a post hoc analysis with a less stringent definition of response (score of &ge;4 [25%-50% improvement]) was conducted. In this analysis, 46% of the bimatoprost plus mometasone group responded overall compared with 18% in the bimatoprost monotherapy group, and no patients in the mometasone plus placebo group. Greater response rates were observed in both bimatoprost groups compared with the mometasone plus placebo group starting at week 12. There were no differences among groups in signs and symptoms of irritation.<br />

CONCLUSIONS

Bimatoprost alone or with mometasone provided greater repigmentation than treatment with mometasone alone. Larger studies that also assess facial lesions are warranted.<br /><br /> <em>J Drugs Dermatol</em>. 2016;15(6):703-710.

Afamelanotide and narrowband UV-B phototherapy for the treatment of vitiligo: a randomized multicenter trial

IMPORTANCE

Narrowband UV-B (NB-UV-B) phototherapy is used extensively to treat vitiligo. Afamelanotide, an analogue of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone, is known to induce tanning of the skin.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the efficacy and safety of combination therapy for generalized vitiligo consisting of afamelanotide implant and NB-UV-B phototherapy.

DESIGN, SETTING, AND PARTICIPANTS

This study was performed in 2 academic outpatient dermatology centers and 1 private dermatology practice. We enrolled men and women 18 years or older with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes (SPTs) III to VI and a confirmed diagnosis of nonsegmental vitiligo that involved 15% to 50% of total body surface area. Vitiligo was stable or slowly progressive for 3 months. Patients were randomized to combination therapy (n = 28) vs NB-UV-B monotherapy (n = 27). After 1 month of NB-UV-B phototherapy, 16 mg of afamelanotide was administered subcutaneously to the combination therapy group monthly for 4 months while NB-UV-B phototherapy continued; the other group continued to receive NB-UV-B monotherapy.

INTERVENTIONS

Narrowband UV-B monotherapy vs combined NB-UV-B phototherapy and afamelanotide.

MAIN OUTCOMES AND MEASURES

Response on the Vitiligo Area Scoring Index and Vitiligo European Task Force scoring system.

RESULTS

Response in the combination therapy group was superior to that in the NB-UV-B monotherapy group (P < .05) at day 56. For the face and upper extremities, a significantly higher percentage of patients in the combination therapy group achieved repigmentation, and at earlier times (face, 41.0 vs 61.0 days [P = .001]; upper extremities, 46.0 vs 69.0 days [P = .003]). In the combination therapy group, repigmentation was 48.64% (95% CI, 39.49%-57.80%) at day 168 vs 33.26% (95% CI, 24.18%-42.33%) in the NB-UV-B monotherapy group. Notable adverse events included erythema in both groups and minor infections and nausea in the combination therapy group. Comparison between Fitzpatrick SPTs showed patients with SPTs IV to VI in the combination therapy group had improvement in the Vitiligo Area Scoring Index at days 56 and 84 (P < .05); no significant difference was noted in patients with SPT III.

CONCLUSIONS AND RELEVANCE

A combination of afamelanotide implant and NB-UV-B phototherapy resulted in clinically apparent, statistically significant superior and faster repigmentation compared with NB-UV-B monotherapy. The response was more noticeable in patients with SPTs IV to VI.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

clinicaltrials.gov Identifier: NCT01430195.

Novel skin brightener used as monotherapy for moderate melasma in skin of color

Melasma is a chronic, relapsing disorder that can be disfiguring and can have adverse effects on quality of life. Recently, a unique hydroquinone-free topical product addressing multiple pathways involved in pigmentation was shown to have similar efficacy and equally well tolerated as 4% hydroquinone in females with facial hyperpigmentation. The goal herein was to further assess the efficacy and tolerability of this new multimodality product for the control of moderate melasma in skin of color. Six female subjects with Fitzpatrick skin types IV-V in good general health between the ages of 46 and 63 years with moderate epidermal facial melasma are presented herein. Subjects applied the skin brightener twice daily, morning and evening, and returned to the clinic at weeks 4, 8, and 12. By week 12, Investigator Overall Hyperpigmentation scores and MASI scores improved by an average of 22% and 38% from baseline, respectively. Additionally, 100% of subjects showed at least a 25% increase in Global Improvement at week 12. The skin brightener was well tolerated with no reports of erythema, edema, scaling, burning/stinging, or itching. Results from these case studies suggest that this multimodality skin brightener may provide an alternative treatment to hydroquinone for moderate melasma in skin of color. However additional clinical studies would be needed.

The efficacy of afamelanotide and narrowband UV-B phototherapy for repigmentation of vitiligo

BACKGROUND

Vitiligo is characterized by depigmented patches of skin due to loss of cutaneous melanocytes. Many recent studies have demonstrated defects in the melanocortin system in patients with vitiligo, including decreased circulating and lesional skin levels of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH). Afamelanotide is a potent and longer-lasting synthetic analogue of naturally occurring α-MSH.

OBSERVATIONS

We describe the preliminary results of 4 patients with generalized vitiligo who developed repigmentation using afamelanotide in combination with narrowband UV-B (NB-UV-B) phototherapy. Patients were treated 3 times weekly with NB-UV-B and starting in the second month received a series of 4 monthly implants containing 16 mg of afamelanotide. Afamelanotide induced faster and deeper repigmentation in each case. All patients experienced follicular and confluent areas of repigmentation within 2 days to 4 weeks after the initial implant, which progressed significantly throughout treatment. All patients experienced diffuse hyperpigmentation.

CONCLUSIONS

We propose that afamelanotide represents a novel and potentially effective treatment for vitiligo. The combined therapy of NB-UV-B and afamelanotide appears to promote melanoblast differentiation, proliferation, and eumelanogenesis. Further studies are necessary to confirm these observations.

A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamide/peptide/retinyl propionate product regimen vs. a prescription 0.02% tretinoin product regimen

Background

Tretinoin is considered the benchmark prescription topical therapy for improving fine facial wrinkles, but skin tolerance issues can affect patient compliance. In contrast, cosmetic antiwrinkle products are well tolerated but are generally presumed to be less efficacious than tretinoin.

Objectives

To compare the efficacy of a cosmetic moisturizer regimen vs. a prescription regimen with 0·02% tretinoin for improving the appearance of facial wrinkles.

Methods

An 8-week, randomized, parallel-group study was conducted in 196 women with moderate to moderately severe periorbital wrinkles. Following 2 weeks washout, subjects on the cosmetic regimen (n=99) used a sun protection factor (SPF) 30 moisturizing lotion containing 5% niacinamide, peptides and antioxidants, a moisturizing cream containing niacinamide and peptides, and a targeted wrinkle product containing niacinamide, peptides and 0·3% retinyl propionate. Subjects on the prescription regimen (n=97) used 0·02% tretinoin plus moisturizing SPF 30 sunscreen. Subject cohorts (n=25) continued treatment for an additional 16 weeks. Changes in facial wrinkling were assessed by both expert grading and image analysis of digital images of subjects’ faces and by self-assessment questionnaire. Product tolerance was assessed via clinical erythema and dryness grading, subject self-assessment, and determinations of skin barrier integrity (transepidermal water loss) and stratum corneum protein changes.

Results

The cosmetic regimen significantly improved wrinkle appearance after 8 weeks relative to tretinoin, with comparable benefits after 24 weeks. The cosmetic regimen was significantly better tolerated than tretinoin through 8 weeks by all measures.

Conclusions

An appropriately designed cosmetic regimen can improve facial wrinkle appearance comparably with the benchmark prescription treatment, with improved tolerability.

Safety and effectiveness of hyaluronic acid fillers in skin of color

OBJECTIVES

To assess the safety and effectiveness of hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers in skin of color.

METHODS

Two prospective studies followed up subjects with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes of IV, V, or VI for 24 weeks after dermal filler injections. In a double-blind, randomized study, subjects were injected with one of three high concentration (24 mg/mL) HA fillers (Juvéderm Ultra, Ultra Plus, and 30) in one nasolabial fold and Zyplast collagen in the other. In an open-label, randomized study, subjects received one of three low concentration (5.5 mg/mL) HA fillers (Hylaform, Hylaform Plus, and Captique) in both nasolabial folds.

RESULTS

A total of 160 subjects (a subset of 439 study subjects) were randomized and treated with one of the three high concentration fillers, and 119 subjects were randomized and treated with one of the three low concentration fillers. For subjects treated with the high concentration fillers there were no occurrences of hypersensitivity or hypertrophic scarring, and no increased incidence of hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation in non-Caucasian vs. Caucasian subjects. For subjects treated with the low concentration fillers there were no occurrences of keloid formation, hypertrophic scarring, hypopigmentation, hypersensitivity, and three instances of mild hyperpigmentation. For all of the fillers the majority of subjects maintained >/=1 point improvement in nasolabial fold severity scores through 24 weeks.

CONCLUSIONS

All of the HA fillers were well tolerated in individuals with skin of color and demonstrated effectiveness throughout the 24 week period. Furthermore, the fillers provided smooth, natural-looking wrinkle correction in darker skin types.

Management of hyperpigmentation in darker racial ethnic groups

Dyschromias, in particular hyperpigmentation, are major issues of concern for people of color. Pigmentary disorders such as melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) can cause psychological and emotional distress and can pose a negative impact on a person's health-related quality of life. The precise etiology of these conditions is unknown. Therapies for melasma and PIH target various points during the cycle of melanin production and degradation. Therapies for these conditions include topical agents and resurfacing procedures. Hydroquinone remains the gold standard of topical agents. Other efficacious agents include kojic acid, azelaic acid, mequinol, and retinoids. Cosmeceutical agents include licorice, arbutin, soy, N-acetyl glucosamine, and niacinamide. Resurfacing procedures that have been used to treat melasma and PIH include chemical peels, microdermabrasion, lasers, and intense pulsed light. These procedures are best used in combination with topical bleaching agents. Given the propensity of darker skin to hyperpigment, resurfacing procedures should be used with care and caution. Maximal results are best achieved with repetitive, superficial, resurfacing modalities. In addition, ultraviolet protective measures such as broad-spectrum sunscreens are fundamental to the successful management of these conditions.

Six-month safety results of calcium hydroxylapatite for treatment of nasolabial folds in Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI

BACKGROUND

Recently, the cosmetic market has seen an increase in the options for treatment for people with dark skin.

OBJECTIVES

This study evaluates the use of calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA), a dermal filler indicated for the correction of moderate to severe facial wrinkles and folds, including the nasolabial folds (NLFs) in individuals with dark skin.

METHODS

This open-label, nonrandomized, prospective, five-center trial enrolled 100 patients aged 18 and older with Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI. CaHA was injected subdermally with a 25- to 27-gauge needle. Participants received a range of 0.6 to 2.8 mL of CaHA and returned at 3 and 6 months to be assessed for keloid formation, hypertrophic scarring, and hyper- or hypopigmentation. If necessary, each subject was offered a touch-up at the conclusion of the 6-month visit.

RESULTS

No reports of keloid formation, hypertrophic scarring, hypo- or hyperpigmentation, or other clinically significant adverse events were recorded.

CONCLUSIONS

People with dark skin injected subdermally with CaHA do not show signs of keloid formation, hypertrophic scarring, or hyper- or hypopigmentation. Because of this safety feature, as well as other characteristics of the product already shown in clinical literature, CaHA is an attractive dermal filler in this population.

Practical applications of genomics research for treatment of aging skin

Skin aging integrates the impact of extrinsic skin insults (e.g., ultraviolet [UV] light, etc.) with chronological, genetically programmed decreases in cellular function. A genomic study of aged skin highlighted the mechanistic importance of skin barrier function, exfoliation, control of reactive oxygen species and maintenance of extracellular matrix to the aging process. A set of topical products designed to address these mechanistic themes was developed and clinically tested. The individual products improved skin barrier function, hydration and skin turnover, as well as the smoothness and depth of periorbital wrinkles. Treatment with a regimen of these products improved the appearance of facial wrinkles after eight weeks. Changes in treated subjects' stratum corneum protein biomarker levels were consistent with the mechanistic pathways identified in the genomic work. Thus, leveraging a genomic understanding of skin aging led to the development of a clinically efficacious, aesthetically pleasing cosmetic regimen that improved the appearance of aged skin.

An efficacy study of 3 commercially available hydroquinone 4% treatments for melasma

Melasma is a common disorder of hyperpigmentation typically characterized by relatively symmetric brown or gray-brown patches on sun-exposed facial areas. Treating melasma is challenging because of the prolonged time to response and the substantial relapse rate when therapy is discontinued. The objective of this 12-week study was to compare the clinical efficacy and tolerability of 3 hydroquinone 4%-containing creams in the treatment of melasma. The 3 creams were cream A (microencapsulated hydroquinone 4% and retinol 0.15% with antioxidants); cream B (hydroquinone 4% and retinol 0.3% with antioxidants); and cream C (fluocinolone acetonide 0.01%, hydroquinone 4%, and tretinoin 0.05%). This 2-arm, split-face, right-left bilateral, evaluator-blinded study compared cream A and cream B in treatment arm 1, and cream A and cream C in treatment arm 2. Evaluator-blinded study assessments were conducted at baseline and weeks 4, 8, and 12. Results from treatment arm 1 demonstrated that at weeks 8 and 12, treatment with cream A showed statistically significant improvements over cream B in the efficacy assessments of overall disease severity (week 8, P=.005; week 12, P=.028), lesion area (week 8, P=.005; week 12, P=.003), pigmentation intensity (week 8, P=.012; week 12, P=.012), and Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) score (week 8, P= .002; week 12, P= .012). Results from treatment arm 2 demonstrated that at weeks 4 and 8, treatment with cream A was similar to cream C in the efficacy assessments of overall disease severity, lesion area, pigmentation intensity, MASI score, and global evaluation of response to treatment. At week 12, cream A continued to demonstrate sustained improvements in each of the above efficacy assessments; however, cream C showed a decrease in improvement of these efficacy assessments because subjects were switched to placebo for the last 4 weeks of treatment. All 3 treatments were well-tolerated. These data confirm previous findings that the unique delivery system of microencapsulated hydroquinone 4% and retinol 0.15% with antioxidants is safe and effective for use in treating melasma, and the data show that this novel nonsteroidal product should be considered when weighing long-term treatment options.

The safety of hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is one of the most effective molecules for the treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders, with over 40 years of efficacy and safety data. Concerns over its safety have been raised because of the fact that it is a derivative of benzene and because of the long-term side-effects observed with cosmetic products containing high concentrations of hydroquinone. However, despite 40-50 years use of hydroquinone for medical conditions, there has not been a single documented case of either a cutaneous or internal malignancy associated with this drug. This article reviews the evidence for the safety of hydroquinone in the treatment of hyperpigmentation conditions.

Microdermabrasion

BACKGROUND

Microdermabrasion has become one of the most popular forms of superficial resurfacing. The benefits and efficacy of microdermabrasion remain an intensely debated topic among dermatologic surgeons.

OBJECTIVE

This article reviews the efficacy, safety, epidermal barrier function, histopathologic effects, complications, advantages, and disadvantages of microdermabrasion.

CONCLUSION

In general, microdermabrasion studies have been conducted in small groups of patients. Protocols, units, and settings have differed. There remains a major disparity between the popularity of microdermabrasion in the public sector and cohesive and comprehensive scientific data documenting the efficacy of the procedure.

Light microscopic, immunohistochemical, and ultrastructural alterations in patients with melasma

Despite new technologies, few studies have assessed the histologic alterations in patients with melasma. Using current technologies, the present study was designed to re-evaluate the light microscopic, immunohistochemical, and ultrastructural changes of the hyperpigmented and adjacent normal skin of patients with melasma. Twenty-one patients were included in this study. Two millimeter punch biopsies were taken from the hyperpigmented and adjacent normal skin of the face. The integrity of the epidermis and dermis was assessed by light microscopy, computer-assisted image analysis, immunohistochemistry, and electron microscopy. Stains included hematoxylin-eosin and Fontana-Masson for melanin detection. Immunostaining was performed using Mel-5 antibody and CD1a antibody as markers for melanin and Langerhans cells, respectively. However, mild lymphohistiocytic infiltrates were present in 75% of the hyperpigmented areas. The areas of hyperpigmentation showed increased deposition of melanin in the epidermis and dermis of all cases. There was a statistically significant increase in the content of epidermal melanin. There were no quantitative increases in melanocytes in the hyperpigmented areas of skin. However, the melanocytes in the hyperpigmented areas were larger, intensely stained cells with very prominent dendrites. Electron microscopy revealed more melanosomes in keratinocytes, melanocytes, and dendrites in the involved skin in comparison to the uninvolved skin. The results of this study suggest that melasma is a consequence of specific hyperfunctional melanocytes that cause excessive melanin deposition in the epidermis and dermis.

Topical tacrolimus therapy for vitiligo: therapeutic responses and skin messenger RNA expression of proinflammatory cytokines

BACKGROUND

Previous studies have documented humoral and cell-mediated immunologic defects in patients with vitiligo.

OBJECTIVE

This 24-week study assessed the efficacy and safety of tacrolimus 0.1% ointment in patients with generalized vitiligo as well as the pretreatment and post-treatment expression of cytokines in the depigmented and normal skin of patients compared with controls.

METHODS

Twenty-three patients were enrolled in this investigation, and 19 patients completed the study; 8 were male and 11 were female. Fifteen age-, race-, and sex-matched control subjects were also included. Patients were treated with tacrolimus 0.1% ointment applied twice daily. Repeat evaluations were performed at 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, and 24 weeks. Three-millimeter punch biopsy specimens were taken from the depigmented, non-sun-exposed skin and adjacent normal skin of patients at baseline and 24 weeks, and from normal, non-sun-exposed skin of controls. Cellular messenger RNA expression for interleukin 2 (IL-2), IL-4, IL-10, tumor necrosis factor alfa (TFN-alpha), and interferon gamma (IFN-gamma) were determined by real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction.

RESULTS

At 24 weeks, 17 of 19 patients (89%) achieved varying levels of repigmentation. There was a statistically significant decrease in overall disease severity scores at 24 weeks. Thirteen patients (68%) had greater than 75% repigmentation of face and/or neck lesions. Signs and symptoms of irritation were minimal. At baseline, compared with healthy controls, vitiligo patients demonstrated a statistically significant increase in the expression of IFN-gamma in involved and adjacent uninvolved skin (P=.05 and P=.02, respectively); significantly increased TNF-alpha expression in involved and uninvolved skin (P=.01 and P=0.02, respectively); and significantly increased IL-10 expression in involved and uninvolved skin (P=.01 and P=.04, respectively). Posttreatment, TNF-alpha expression decreased in the depigmented and adjacent uninvolved skin (P <.001). There was no statistically significant change in IL-10 or IFN-gamma posttreatment. These data suggest that tacrolimus 0.1% ointment is a safe and effective therapy for patients with vitiligo. It further suggests that an imbalance in local cytokine expression may play a role in the pathogenesis of vitiligo. Suppression of TNF-alpha after topical tacrolimus application may be associated with repigmentation of vitiligo.

A microsponge formulation of hydroquinone 4% and retinol 0.15% in the treatment of melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation

Disorders of hyperpigmentation such as melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) are common, particularly among people with darker skin types. Hydroquinone (HQ) bleaching creams are considered the gold standard for treating hyperpigmentation. Recently, a new formulation of HQ 4% with retinol 0.15% entrapped in microsponge reservoirs was developed for the treatment of melasma and PIH. Microsponges were used to release HQ gradually to prolong exposure to treatment and to minimize skin irritation. The safety and efficacy of this product were evaluated in a 12-week open-label study. A total of 28 patients were enrolled, and 25 completed the study. Study end points included disease severity, pigmentation intensity, lesion area, and colorimetry assessments. Adverse events also were recorded. Patients applied the microentrapped HQ 4% formulation to the full face twice daily (morning and evening). A broad-spectrum sunscreen was applied once in the morning, 15 minutes after application of the test product. Patients were evaluated at baseline and at 4, 8, and 12 weeks. The microentrapped HQ 4%/retinol 0.15% formulation produced improvement at all study end points. Improvement in disease severity and pigmentation intensity was statistically significant at weeks 4, 8, and 12 compared with baseline (P<.001). Lesion area and colorimetry measurements also were significantly improved at each visit (P<.001). Microentrapped HQ 4% was well tolerated, with only one patient discontinuing because of an allergic reaction, which was not considered serious. In this open-label study, microentrapped HQ 4% with retinol 0.15% was safe and effective.

The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin

The beneficial effects of alpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs) on skin were discovered by Drs. Van Scott and Yu in the early 1970s, including exfoliation, skin smoothing, and antiaging effects. A new generation of AHAs, called polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), was discovered that provide similar effects as AHAs but do not cause the sensory irritation responses that can limit the use of classical AHAs. PHAs have been found to be compatible with clinically sensitive skin, including rosacea and atopic dermatitis, and can be used after cosmetic procedures. PHAs provide additional humectant and moisturization properties compared with AHAs and can enhance stratum corneum barrier function, therefore increasing the skin's resistance to chemical challenge. Most PHAs also possess antioxidant properties. PHAs such as gluconolactone or lactobionic acid may be used in combination with other products, ingredients, or procedures such as laser and microdermabrasion to provide additional benefits to therapy or to enhance the therapeutic effect. Several studies were conducted in support of this, and methods and results are discussed. In summary, PHA-containing products were used in combination with retinoic acid in treating adult facial acne and were found to be well tolerated. PHAs plus retinyl acetate (pro-vitamin A) in a cream base exhibited significant antiaging skin benefits such as skin smoothing and plumping. PHAs plus hydroquinone showed excellent improvement in antiaging and skin lightening parameters. Finally, PHA-containing products were shown to be compatible with African American, Caucasian, and Hispanic/Asian skin and provided significant improvements in photoaging in these populations.

Topical tacrolimus for repigmentation of vitiligo

We describe 6 patients with generalized vitiligo who responded to treatment with tacrolimus ointment. Moderate to excellent repigmentation was achieved in 5 patients. Although the number of cases in this noncontrolled, nonblinded series is small, tacrolimus ointment may be an efficacious and safe treatment option for vitiligo.

Idiopathic CD4+T-cell lymphocytopenia associated with vitiligo

The syndrome of idiopathic CD4+ T lymphocytopenia (ICTL) is defined as the persistent depletion of peripheral blood CD4+ T lymphocytes below 300 cells/mm(3) or less than 20% of the total lymphocytes in the absence of either HIV infection or other known causes of immunodeficiency. To date no known viral origin has been identified. ICTL has a variable clinical course ranging from patients with minimal symptoms to those who have died from opportunistic infections. We report a case of a 32-year-old white man with a long history of vitiligo that is associated with ICTL. He also had incidental psoriasis. The correlation between ICTL and autoimmune vitiligo suggests an aberration in the immune surveillance that leads to an abnormal response of CD4+ T lymphocytes in the host.

Skin barrier changes induced by aluminum oxide and sodium chloride microdermabrasion

BACKGROUND

Microdermabrasion has become an extremely popular method for superficial resurfacing. Despite the popularity of this technique, published studies of skin barrier function changes following microdermabrasion are lacking.

OBJECTIVE

To study assessed transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration, pH, and sebum production following aluminum oxide (Al2O3) and sodium chloride (NaCl) microdermabrasion.

METHODS

Eight patients were included in this split face study. Transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum hydration, skin pH, and sebum production measurements were taken from the right and left sides of the face at baseline. One side of the face was treated with Al2O3 microdermabrasion and the other side with NaCl microdermabrasion. Measurements were repeated at 24 hours and 7 days.

RESULTS

Both NaCl and Al2O3 microdermabrasion was associated with a statistically significant increase in TEWL at 24 hours. In contrast, at 7 days, levels of TEWL were decreased to less than baseline. In addition, an increase in hydration was observed 24 hours after NaCl and Al2O3 microdermabrasion. Hydration in NaCl-treated areas remained significantly increased at 7 days.

CONCLUSION

The results of this investigation suggest that both NaCl and Al2O3 microdermabrasion alter the epidermal barrier. These changes in epidermal barrier function may be responsible for the clinical improvement following microdermabrasion.

Laser resurfacing-induced hypopigmentation: histologic alterations and repigmentation with topical photochemotherapy

BACKGROUND

Hypopigmentation is a relatively common side effect of CO2 laser resurfacing. Little is known regarding the histologic features of the areas of pigmentation loss. To date, hypopigmentation is considered a permanent complication of this procedure.

OBJECTIVE

To assess the histologic features of hypopigmentation caused by laser resurfacing and to evaluate the efficacy and safety of topical psoralen photochemotherapy.

METHODS

Ten patients were included in this pilot study. Four had baseline biopsies performed. Histologic parameters assessed included epidermal melanin, dermal melanophages, perivascular inflammation, Mel-5 immunostaining for melanocytes, and dermal fibrosis. Seven patients were treated twice a week with topical photochemotherapy utilizing 0.001% 8-methoxypsoralen.

RESULTS

All of the biopsy specimens demonstrated varying quantities of epidermal melanin and residual epidermal melanocytes. Mild perivascular inflammation was evident in two specimens. Superficial dermal fibrosis was noted in all biopsy specimens. Topical photochemotherapy induced moderate to excellent repigmentation in 71% of the treated patients. Adverse effects were minimal.

CONCLUSION

The results of this investigation suggest that hypopigmentation induced by laser resurfacing may result from a suppression of melanogenesis rather than destruction of area melanocytes. The preliminary data further suggest that hypopigmentation caused by laser resurfacing can be effectively treated by topical photochemotherapy.

Skin and hair cosmetic issues in women of color

Women of color comprise many phenotypically heterogeneous groups. Despite the general heterogeneity, however, there are unique skin and hair care issues and needs. These issues often present therapeutically challenging problems for the dermatologist and the skin and hair care industry.

The safety and efficacy of salicylic acid chemical peels in darker racial-ethnic groups

BACKGROUND

There is a dearth of published data regarding chemical peels in darker racial-ethnic groups.

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of the present investigation was to assess the clinical efficacy and safety of a new superficial salicylic acid peel in individuals of skin types V and VI.

METHODS

Twenty-five patients were included in this pilot investigation. Nine had acne vulgaris, 5 had post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, 6 had melasma, and 5 had rough, oily skin with enlarged pores. The patients were pre-treated for 2 weeks with hydroquinone 4% prior to undergoing a series of five salicylic acid chemical peels. The concentrations of salicylic acid were 20% and 30%. The peels were performed at 2 week intervals. RESULTS. Moderate to significant improvement was observed in 88% of the patients. Minimal to mild side effects occurred in 16%.

CONCLUSION

The results of this study suggest that superficial salicylic acid peels are both safe and efficacious for treatment of acne vulgaris, oily skin, textural changes, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in patients with skin types V and VI.