Occurrence of alkyl glucosides in rinse-off cosmetics marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin

Rinse-off cosmetic products, primarily shampoos, are frequently implicated in the onset of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) caused by alkyl glucosides (AGs). AGs are increasingly popular surfactants and known contact allergens. Glucoside-induced ACD was most frequently observed with shampoos and skin-cleansing products in both consumer and occupational settings. Thereby, studies have shown that atopic individuals are the most susceptible to ACD. Also, several investigations have indicated that individuals with sensitive skin might be more prone to skin allergies. This is why the presence of AGs was investigated in shampoos and body cleansers marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin. For this purpose, the website of Amazon.com was surveyed. Four groups of cosmetics were obtained by using the following keywords: "hypoallergenic shampoo for adults," "sensitive skin shampoo for adults," "hypoallergenic body cleanser for adults," and "sensitive skin body cleanser for adults." The first 30 best-selling cosmetics in each group were investigated for the presence of AGs, by analyzing the product information pages. The results showed that as much as 56.7% of hypoallergenic shampoos contained AGs, as ingredients, whereas the percentage was somewhat lower for other product categories. Even though decyl and lauryl glucoside were nearly ubiquitously used AGs in cosmetics over the past decade, the most commonly present AG in our analysis was coco-glucoside. The results of this study indicated a necessity to include coco-glucoside in the baseline series of patch testing allergens. Industry, regulators, and healthcare providers should be made aware of the frequent presence of AGs in rinse-off cosmetic products marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin to ensure the safety and well-being of consumers and patients.

Physicochemical properties and stability of oil-in-water emulsions stabilized by soy protein isolate and xanthan gum

The aim of this work was to determine rheological and disperse characteristics and stability of oil-in-water emulsions stabilized by soy protein isolate (SPI) and xanthan gum (XG), as natural components. The effects of their combination on emulsion stabilization have not been investigated yet. The existence of interactions between the two macromolecules were indicated by the influence of XG on SPI surface hydrophobicity and surface tension values. Increase in SPI concentration from 1 to 3 % shift of distribution curves towards smaller particle size, while the opposite effects of further increase of SPI was obtained. The emulsions stabilized by SPI showed shear-thinning flow behavior, which changed to thixotropic at 5 % of SPI concentration. The presence of XG in emulsions at low concentrations did not affect the size distribution of the droplets, while at 0.1 % of XG Sauter mean diameter value raised and distribution curves were shifted towards a higher particle size. The presence of XG at higher concentration resulted in thixotropic flow behavior of emulsions. Also, increase in XG concentration led to the increase in consistency index and extent of non-Newtonian behavior of emulsions and enhanced the influence of the elastic modulus and creaming stability of the systems.

Emulgels: Promising Carrier Systems for Food Ingredients and Drugs

Novel delivery systems for cosmetics, drugs, and food ingredients are of great scientific and industrial interest due to their ability to incorporate and protect active substances, thus improving their selectivity, bioavailability, and efficacy. Emulgels are emerging carrier systems that represent a mixture of emulsion and gel, which are particularly significant for the delivery of hydrophobic substances. However, the proper selection of main constituents determines the stability and efficacy of emulgels. Emulgels are dual-controlled release systems, where the oil phase is utilized as a carrier for hydrophobic substances and it determines the occlusive and sensory properties of the product. The emulsifiers are used to promote emulsification during production and to ensure emulsion stability. The choice of emulsifying agents is based on their capacity to emulsify, their toxicity, and their route of administration. Generally, gelling agents are used to increase the consistency of formulation and improve sensory properties by making these systems thixotropic. The gelling agents also impact the release of active substances from the formulation and stability of the system. Therefore, the aim of this review is to gain new insights into emulgel formulations, including the components selection, methods of preparation, and characterization, which are based on recent advances in research studies.

Assessment of Soy Protein Acid Hydrolysate-Xanthan Gum Mixtures on the Stability, Disperse and Rheological Properties of Oil-in-Water Emulsions

There is a growing need for natural ingredients that could be utilized for the production of food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic emulsions. Soy protein acid hydrolysate (SPAH) is a plant-based additive used in the food industry mainly as a flavor enhancer. For the purpose of this work, however, it was mixed with a well-known natural polysaccharide, xanthan gum (XG), to produce stable 30% (w/w) sunflower oil-in-water emulsions using a rotor-stator homogenizer. In order to assess the emulsifying properties of the SPAH and its mixtures with XG, the surface tension properties of their water solutions, particle size, creaming stability, and rheological properties of the emulsions were investigated. Since the emulsions prepared using only SPAH, in various concentrations, were not stable, systems containing 5% of SPAH and 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, or 0.5% of XG were then studied. The increase in concentration of the macromolecule led to an increase in creaming stability. The emulsions with 5% SPAH and 0.5% XG were stable for at least 14 days. The increase in XG concentration led to a decrease in d_4,3, while consistency index and non-Newtonian behavior increased. The systems containing SPAH, in the absence of XG, showed shear-thinning flow behavior, which was changed to thixotropic with the addition of XG. Viscoelastic properties of emulsions containing over 0.2% of XG were confirmed by oscillatory rheological tests, demonstrating the dominance of elastic (G') over viscous (G") modulus.

Fortification of chocolate with microencapsulated fish oil: Effect of protein wall material on physicochemical properties of microcapsules and chocolate matrix

Protein stabilized fish oil microcapsules were incorporated into chocolates in order to design fortified product which could bear the nutritional claim "source of or high omega-3 fatty acids". Protein wall material (soy, whey and potato) influenced microcapsules and chocolate performance. Soy protein resulted in the smallest microcapsules with the lowest content of surface oil. Peroxide values were low even after 14 days of microcapsules storage. Incorporation of microcapsules into chocolate led to increase in Casson viscosity and breaking force as well as decrease in melting enthalpy, due to prevalence of particle-particle over fat-fat interactions. Increase in microcapsules concentration resulted in chocolate with poorer snap and higher tendency to fat bloom formation. Whey protein microcapsules, having the largest diameter, resulted in chocolate with the lowest breaking force and melting enthalpy and the highest whitening index. In general, microcapsules addition did not require chocolate production modification and led to sensory acceptable product.

Comparative characterization of sugar beet fibers to sugar beet pectin and octenyl succinic anhydride modified maltodextrin in aqueous solutions using viscometry, conductometry, tensiometry and component analysis

BACKGROUND

Knowledge about specific functional characteristics, such as viscosimetric, conductometric, tensiometric and structural properties of polysaccharide aqueous solutions is highly important in the successful and adequate application in food emulsion formulation. For the first time detailed characterization of sugar beet fibers aqueous solutions in comparison to high molecular weight (sugar beet pectin) and low molecular weight [octenyl succinic anhydride (OSA) maltodextrin] hydrocolloids/stabilizers was performed through viscometry, conductometry, tensiometry and component analysis.

RESULTS

Sugar beet fibers and its water-soluble fraction were investigated. All sugar beet fiber samples showed substantial surface-active properties but different effect on the viscosity values of aqueous solutions. Sugar beet pectin had higher impact on aqueous solutions viscosity values compared to sugar beet fiber samples. Structural bonding between investigated polysaccharides were evaluated through conductometric measurements. Intermolecular linking and probable embedding of OSA maltodextrin molecules into the sugar beet fiber complex structure was detected in conductometric studies. The increased concentration of sugar beet fibers in the presence of sugar beet pectin led to the accelerated increase in specific conductivity values indicating effects of 'macromolecular crowding', intermolecular and intramolecular conformation changes and charge formation.

CONCLUSIONS

Detailed characterization of sugar beet fibers provided scientific insight towards fundamental characteristics of sugar beet fiber aqueous solutions. The presented characteristics are particularly applicable in the field of food emulsion stabilization due to the presented surface-active properties of sugar beet fibers as well as specific characteristics of investigated multi-polysaccharide systems. © 2022 Society of Chemical Industry.

Are cosmetics based on alpha hydroxy acids safe to use when purchased over the internet?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are used in dermatology for topical treatment of skin disorders. Some regulatory bodies, including Food and Drug Administration (FDA), recommended labeling cosmetic products with sunburn alerts and proposed limitations regarding concentrations of AHAs in cosmetic products. In addition, The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel recommended 10% of AHAs in products as the maximal safe concentration. With a rapidly increasing trend of online purchasing of cosmetic products, it is important that their labels convey the necessary warnings and that they be harmonized with regulatory bodies regarding the recommended concentrations of AHAs. The aim of this report was to investigate whether or not the sunburn alert, as well as AHA recommendations mostly used for exfoliating cosmetic products, was visible to consumers during the online purchasing. The compliance with FDA and CIR Expert Panel standards was analyzed in the first 50 cosmetic products obtained after the conducted investigation on the Amazon.com e-commerce company website using the search term “AHA anti-aging.” It was found that exfoliating cosmetic products contained AHAs in a broad range of concentrations, from 2.5 up to 70%. Nineteen out of 50 products contained a concentration of AHAs greater than recommended. Twelve products did not contain any data at all regarding the concentration of AHAs. Sunburn alerts were present in 16 out of 50 analyzed product pages. In conclusion, more efforts should be made in providing users with information and the necessity of protection from potential complications after topical AHAs product treatments

Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies

During the formulation of liposome-containing products different problems can occur and the selection of a suitable carrier remains the greatest challenge. To estimate feasibility of a novel alkyl polyglucoside surfactant (hydroxystearyl alcohol and hydroxystearyl glucoside) as an emulsifier for cosmetics with liposome-encapsulated plant stem cells, we performed a two-phase study. In the first, the pre-formulation phase, the emulsifier's critical micelle concentration (CMC) and liposome-encapsulated active-emulsifier interactions were determined. The second phase was carried out to develop and characterize a cosmetic emulsion suitable to serve as a carrier for liposomes. The investigated emulsifier, with the obtained CMC value of 0.0085 wt.%, could be classified as liposome-friendly and can be used to develop stable and aesthetically acceptable cosmetics or even prospective pharmaceutical liposome-containing emulsions.