Scalp hair loss is not random across follicular units: a new insight into human hair aging

OBJECTIVES

Scalp hair has the greatest number of hairs (typically 1-5) per follicular unit but is also the most susceptible body site to hair loss with age. Hence, we set-out to determine the degree to which scalp hair parameters change with age in women and men, any sex differences thereof and whether hair loss is random across follicular units.

METHODS

A retrospective cross-sectional study of 200 Chinese men and 200 Chinese women (30-69 years). Image analysis and manual counting methods were used to measure occipital located hair parameters from 6x8 mm shaved scalp photographs and plucked hair microscopy images.

RESULTS

Of 5 hair parameters, the number of hairs per follicular unit had the greatest (negative) correlation with age in both men and women. Men had a greater number of hairs and follicular units than women on average but had a greater decrease in number of hairs per follicular unit with age, particularly for the loss of multi-hair (3+) follicular units. The loss of hairs with age was significantly different to that expected by a random loss of hairs across follicular units, and better described by a model of increased hair loss risk the greater number of hairs per follicular unit.

CONCLUSIONS

We have found evidence of hair loss preferentially occurring in multi-hair follicular units which was more pronounced in men. This data suggests that part of the reason scalp hair is more susceptible to hair loss than on other body sites is due to the greater presence of multi-hair follicular units on the scalp.

Characterization by Raman and infrared spectroscopy and fluorescence microscopy of human hair treated with cosmetic products

Analytical studies on hair structures have evolved significantly over the years and vibrational spectroscopic techniques, such as Raman and infrared, have been increasingly used for such purposes. Nowadays, there is a need to understand more and more about the action of cosmetics on the hair fiber, so this work aims to analyze the permeation of cosmetic treatments into the hair. For the molecular structural characterization, Raman and infrared spectroscopy techniques were used, being verified the efficiency in the analysis of hair samples, demonstrating the internal characteristics of the fiber and the permeation of different cosmetics. Four cosmetics were chosen for this study and, due to the techniques used, it was possible to observe the diffusion of these products inside the bleached hair. It was observed with the Raman vibrational spectroscopy that the concentration of the products is found mainly in the cuticular region, decreasing the permeate content when approaching the central region, and the infrared spectroscopy showed results compatible with the Raman spectroscopy. Therefore, vibrational spectroscopy proved to be a valuable tool for the study of cosmetic permeation into the hair fiber and for the analysis of its external and internal structure.

Keratin/alginate hybrid hydrogels filled with halloysite clay nanotubes for protective treatment of human hair

Keratin/alginate hydrogels filled with halloysite nanotubes (HNTs) have been tested for the protective coating of human hair. Preliminary studies have been conducted on the aqueous colloidal systems and the corresponding hydrogels obtained by using Ca²⁺ ions as crosslinkers. Firstly, we have investigated the colloidal properties of keratin/alginate/HNTs dispersions to explore the specific interactions occurring between the biomacromolecules and the nanotubes. Then, the rheological properties of the hydrogels have been studied highlighting that the keratin/alginate interactions and the subsequent addition of HNTs facilitate the biopolymer crosslinking. Finally, human hair samples have been treated with the hydrogel systems by the dipping procedure. The protection efficiency of the hydrogels has been evaluated by studying the tensile properties of hair fibers exposed to UV irradiation. In conclusion, keratin/alginate hydrogel filled with halloysite represents a promising formulation for hair protective treatments due to the peculiar structural and rheological characteristics.

Targeting inflammation and pro-resolving mediators with Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp condition

OBJECTIVE

A critical and often-overlooked factor that may give rise to dandruff and oily hair is the intrinsic quality of the scalp stratum corneum (SC), which is often unbalanced and susceptible to external aggressions. Addressing the inflammation element of unhealthy scalp plays an important role in promoting healthy-looking and feeling hair. Although specialized pro-resolving lipid mediators (SPMs) have been studied in the skin to end the inflammation process and promote tissue regeneration, no studies have been provided in the scalp. This study aims to investigate SPMs expression and its role in improving scalp integrity and consequently improving hair appearance using an Anetholea anisita extract.

METHODS

The effect of Anetholea anisita extract was investigated in vitro on human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC), evaluating its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties by fluorescence staining and ELISA, respectively. Ex-vivo measurement of the volume of human scalp sebaceous glands was performed using X-ray microtomography (micro CT). The extract was then clinically tested on a population of dandruff sufferers presenting oily hair. Volunteers' sebum was collected on the scalp and analyzed by LC-MS/MS or ELISA to identify SPMs and pro-inflammatory markers. Scalp integrity was assessed by measuring the pH and the TEWL. Sebum production, dandruff and hair gloss were also evaluated.

RESULTS

Anetholea anisita extract reduced IL-8 and Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generation in HFDPC. Interestingly, this extract also decreased the volume of sebaceous glands as revealed by micro CT. This result was confirmed in vivo by a decrease of sebum production in volunteers. Moreover, SPMs were analyzed and detected in the scalp for the first time. An increase of Lipoxin B4 (LxB4) and Resolvin D1 and D2 (RvD1 and RvD2) was observed after Anetholea anisita treatment as well as decreased of pro-inflammatory sebum mediators expression such as PGE2, LTB4 and IL-8. Consequently, the scalp barrier was reinforced as observed through improved transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin surface pH, reducing dandruff and improving hair health.

CONCLUSION

The present results suggest the potential of cosmetic applications of Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp health by targeting inflammation pathways to decrease dandruff and improve hair condition.

Nanomaterials in hair care and treatment

Hair care and treatment has evolved significantly through the years as new formulations are continuously being explored in an attempt to meet the demand in cosmetic and medicinal fields. While standard hair care procedures include hair washing, aimed at hair cleansing and maintenance, as well as hair dyeing and bleaching formulations for hair embellishment, modern hair treatments are mainly focused on circumventing hair loss conditions, strengthening hair follicle properties and treat hair infestations. In this regard, active compounds (ACs) included in hair cosmetic formulations include a vast array of hair cleansing and hair dye molecules, and typical hair treatments include anti-hair loss ACs (e.g. minoxidil and finasteride) and anti-lice ACs (e.g. permethrin). However, several challenges still persist, as conventional AC formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, calling for an improved design of formulations regarding both efficacy and safety. More recently, nano-based strategies encompassing nanomaterials have emerged as promising tailored approaches to improve the performance of ACs incorporated into hair cosmetics and treatment formulations. The interest in using these nanomaterials is based on account of their ability to: (1) increase stability, safety and biocompatibility of ACs; (2) maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, acting as versatile biointerfaces; (3) enable the controlled release of ACs in both hair and scalp, serving as prolonged AC reservoirs; besides offering (4) hair follicle targeting features attending to the possibility of surface tunability. This review covers the breakthrough of nanomaterials for hair cosmetics and hair treatment, focusing on organic nanomaterials (polymer-based and lipid-based nanoparticles) and inorganic nanomaterials (nanosheets, nanotubes and inorganic nanoparticles), as well as their applications, highlighting their potential as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: This manuscript is focused on reviewing the nanotechnological strategies investigated for hair care and treatment so far. While conventional formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, the selection of improved and suitable nanodelivery systems is of utmost relevance to ensure a proper active ingredient release in both hair and scalp, maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, and provide hair follicle targeting features, warranting stability, efficacy and safety. This innovative manuscript highlights the advantages of nanotechnology-based approaches, particularly as tunable and versatile biointerfaces, and their applications as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment.

Health improvement of human hair and their reshaping using recombinant keratin K31

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We expressed in E. coli, refolded and purified keratin K31, which is known to be a major protein degraded and eluted in hair damage.

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Analysis of the recombinant protein by MALDI-TOF, CD spectroscopy and molecular modelling showed its similarity to the native protein.

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Marked improvements in thickness, strength and smoothness on application of this protein on damaged hair has been shown for the first time.

Hair, being one of the most important components of the beauty care processes, attracts the use of a variety of hair treating cosmetics. Conventional hair treating cosmetics are not satisfactory for one reason or the other. Commercially used keratins are isolated from wool or chicken feathers. As these lack complete sequence identity with human hair keratin, are likely to be less efficient than the human hair keratin. K31, a type I acidic keratin, is a major protein of human hair keratin complex and it is essential for maintaining the hair tensile strength. In this study keratin K31 (46 kDa) gene was expressed in Escherichia coli at a level of approximately 35% of the total cell proteins. The protein, however, was expressed as insoluble inclusion bodies. The expressed protein was refolded and purified by FPLC using an anion-exchange column. The CD analysis results showed that the K31 was properly refolded. MALDI-TOF mass spectroscopy showed the characteristics expected for human K31 keratin. The refolded and partially purified K31 protein, when applied on chemically damaged hairs, increased the diameter of the hair up to 49%. The mechanical strength of the bleached hair increased by almost 2 fold after a single treatment of K31. The protein also straightened curly hair efficiently on a single treatment for one hour. Application of K31 resulted in marked improvements in smoothness, diameter and mechanical strength of the damaged hair.