Biodegradable Amphoteric Surfactants in Titration-Ultrasound Formulation of Oil-in-Water Nanoemulsions: Rational Design, Development, and Kinetic Stability

Amphoteric amphiphilic compounds, due to their unique properties, may represent a group of safe and biocompatible surface-active agents for effective colloidal stabilization of nanoformulations. For this reason, the aim of this work was to develop and characterize the oil-in-water nanoemulsions based on two betaine-derived surfactants with high biodegradability, i.e., cocamidopropyl betaine and coco-betaine. In the first step, we investigated ternary phase diagrams of surfactant-oil-water systems containing different weight ratios of surfactant and oil, as the betaine-type surfactant entity (S), linoleic acid, or oleic acid as the oil phase (O), and the aqueous phase (W) using the titration-ultrasound approach. All the received nanoemulsion systems were then characterized upon droplets size (dynamic light scattering), surface charge (electrophoretic light scattering), and morphology (transmission electron as well as atomic force microscopy). Thermal and spinning tests revealed the most stable compositions, which were subjected to further kinetic stability analysis, including turbidimetric evaluation. Finally, the backscattering profiles revealed the most promising candidate with a size <200 nm for potential delivery of active agents in the future cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and biomedical applications.

Design and Engineering of "Green" Nanoemulsions for Enhanced Topical Delivery of Bakuchiol Achieved in a Sustainable Manner: A Novel Eco-Friendly Approach to Bioretinol

In the present work, we establish novel "environmentally-friendly" oil-in-water nanoemulsions to enhance the transdermal delivery of bakuchiol, the so-called "bioretinol" obtained from powdered Psoralea corylifolia seeds via a sustainable process, i.e., using a supercritical fluid extraction approach with pure carbon dioxide (SC-CO₂). According to Green Chemistry principles, five novel formulations were stabilized by "green" hybrid ionic surfactants such as coco-betaine-surfactin molecules obtained from coconut and fermented rapeseed meal. Preliminary optimization studies involving three dispersion stability tests, i.e., centrifugation, heating, and cooling cycles, indicated the most promising candidates for further physicochemical analysis. Finally, nanoemulsion colloidal characterization provided by scattering (dynamic and electrophoretic light scattering as well as backscattering), microscopic (transmission electron and confocal laser scanning microscopy), and spectroscopic (UV-Vis spectroscopy) methods revealed the most stable nanocarrier for transdermal biological investigation. In vitro, topical experiments provided on human skin cell line HaCaT keratinocytes and normal dermal NHDF fibroblasts indicated high cell viability upon treatment of the tested formulation with a final 0.02-0.2 mg/mL bakuchiol concentration. This excellent biocompatibility was confirmed by ex vivo and in vivo tests on animal and human skin tissue. The improved permeability and antiaging potential of the bakuchiol-encapsulated rich extract were observed, indicating that the obtained ecological nanoemulsions are competitive with commercial retinol formulations.