Assessment of extracts of Helichrysum arenarium, Crataegus monogyna, Sambucus nigra in photoprotective UVA and UVB; photostability in cosmetic emulsions

The aim of our study was to investigate the photoprotective activity and photostability efficacy of sunscreen formulations containing Helichrysum arenarium, Sambucus nigra, Crataegus monogyna extracts and their combination. UV transmission of the emulsion films was performed by using diffuse transmittance measurements coupling to an integrating sphere. In vitro photoprotection and photostability efficacy were evaluated according to the following parameters: sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor (PF-UVA), UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength (λc) before and after UV irradiation. The results obtained show that the formulations containing polyphenols fulfill the official requirements for sunscreen products due to their broad spectrum of UV protection combined with their high photostability and remarkable antioxidant properties. Therefore H. arenarium, S. nigra, C. monogyna extracts represent useful additives for cosmetic formulation.

Evaluating the Photoprotective Effects of Ochre on Human Skin by In Vivo SPF Assessment: Implications for Human Evolution, Adaptation and Dispersal

Archaeological indicators of cognitively modern behaviour become increasingly prevalent during the African Middle Stone Age (MSA). Although the exploitation of ochre is viewed as a key feature of the emergence of modern human behaviour, the uses to which ochre and ochre-based mixtures were put remain ambiguous. Here we present the results of an experimental study exploring the efficacy of ochre as a topical photoprotective compound. This is achieved through the in vivo calculation of the sun protection factor (SPF) values of ochre samples obtained from Ovahimba women (Kunene Region, Northern Namibia) and the Palaeozoic Bokkeveld Group deposits of the Cape Supergroup (Western Cape Province, South Africa). We employ visible spectroscopy, energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (ED-XRF), X-ray diffraction (XRD) and granulometric analyses to characterise ochre samples. The capacity of ochre to inhibit the susceptibility of humans to the harmful effects of exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is confirmed and the mechanisms implicated in the efficacy of ochre as a sunscreen identified. It is posited that the habitual application of ochre may have represented a crucial innovation for MSA humans by limiting the adverse effects of ultraviolet exposure. This may have facilitated the colonisation of geographic regions largely unfavourable to the constitutive skin colour of newly arriving populations.

Compositional and morphological analyses of wax in northern wild berry species

Aerial surfaces of plants are covered by a waxy cuticle protecting plants from excessive water loss and UV light. In the present study, composition and morphology of cuticular waxes of northern wild berry species bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L.), lingonberry (V. vitis-idaea L.), bog bilberry (V. uliginosum L.) and crowberry (Empetrum nigrum L.) were investigated. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) revealed differences in epicuticular wax morphology, and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis confirmed variation in chemical composition of cuticular waxes between the berry species. The dominant compounds in bilberry and lingonberry cuticular waxes were triterpenoids, while fatty acids and alkanes were the dominant ones in bog bilberry and crowberry, respectively. Wax extracted by supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) from industrial press cakes of bilberry and lingonberry contained linoleic acid and γ-linolenic acid as the dominant compounds. Furthermore, in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) of berry waxes depicted good UV-B absorbing capacities.

Nickel-Doped Cerium Oxide Nanoparticles: Green Synthesis Using Stevia and Protective Effect against Harmful Ultraviolet Rays

Nanoparticles of cerium oxide CeO2 are important nanomaterials with remarkable properties for use in both industrial and non-industrial fields. In a general way, doping of oxide nanometric with transition metals improves the properties of nanoparticles. In this study, nickel- doped cerium oxide nanoparticles were synthesized from Stevia rebaudiana extract. Both doped and non-doped nanoparticles were characterized by X-ray diffraction, Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscopy, Energy Dispersive X-ray, Raman spectroscopy, and Vibrating-Sample Magnetometry analysis. According to X-ray diffraction, Raman and Energy Dispersive X-ray crystalline and single phase of CeO2 and Ni doped CeO2 nanoparticles exhibiting fluorite structure with F2g mode were synthesized. Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscopy shows that CeO2 and Ni doped nanoparticles have spherical shape and sizes ranging of 8 to 10 nm. Ni doping of CeO2 results in an increasing of magnetic properties. The enhancement of ultraviolet protector character via Ni doping of CeO2 is also discussed.

An inherited variant in the gene coding for vitamin D-binding protein and survival from cutaneous melanoma: a BioGenoMEL study

An association between low serum vitamin D levels and poorer melanoma survival has been reported. We have studied inheritance of a polymorphism of the GC gene, rs2282679, coding for the vitamin D-binding protein, which is associated with lower serum levels of vitamin D, in a meta-analysis of 3137 melanoma patients. The aim was to investigate evidence for a causal relationship between vitamin D and outcome (Mendelian randomization). The variant was not associated with reduced overall survival (OS) in the UK cohort, per-allele hazard ratio (HR) for death 1.23 (95% confidence interval (CI) 0.93, 1.64). In the smaller cohorts, HR in OS analysis was 1.07 (95% CI 0.88, 1.3) and for all cohorts combined, HR for OS was 1.09 (95% CI 0.93, 1.29). There was evidence of increased melanoma-specific deaths in the seven cohorts for which these data were available. The lack of unequivocal findings despite the large sample size illustrates the difficulties of implementing Mendelian randomization.

DNA Dosimetry Assessment for Sunscreen Genotoxic Photoprotection

Background

Due to the increase of solar ultraviolet radiation (UV) incidence over the last few decades, the use of sunscreen has been widely adopted for skin protection. However, considering the high efficiency of sunlight-induced DNA lesions, it is critical to improve upon the current approaches that are used to evaluate protection factors. An alternative approach to evaluate the photoprotection provided by sunscreens against daily UV radiation-induced DNA damage is provided by the systematic use of a DNA dosimeter.

Methodology/Principal Findings

The Sun Protection Factor for DNA (DNA-SPF) is calculated by using specific DNA repair enzymes, and it is defined as the capacity for inhibiting the generation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD) and oxidised DNA bases compared with unprotected control samples. Five different commercial brands of sunscreen were initially evaluated, and further studies extended the analysis to include 17 other products representing various formulations and Sun Protection Factors (SPF). Overall, all of the commercial brands of SPF 30 sunscreens provided sufficient protection against simulated sunlight genotoxicity. In addition, this DNA biosensor was useful for rapidly screening the biological protection properties of the various sunscreen formulations.

Conclusions/Significance

The application of the DNA dosimeter is demonstrated as an alternative, complementary, and reliable method for the quantification of sunscreen photoprotection at the level of DNA damage.

Benzothiazole-pyridone and benzothiazole-pyrazole clubbed emissive azo dyes and dyeing application on polyester fabric: UPF, biological, photophysical and fastness properties with correlative computational assessments

Positional isomers of benzothiazole-pyridone and benzothiazole-pyrazole containing disperse azo dyes are reported. These heterocyclic azo dyes are decorated with 'separate ESIPT core' and show emission in seven solvents of different polarity. After application on polyester fabric, "very good to excellent" light and washing fastness properties were observed. Thermal stability of 'dyed fabric' was analysed by sublimation fastness test- and found 'very good to excellent' ratings at 210 °C. Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) analysis of four 'dyed fabric' indicates the blocking 96-97% of UV radiation. Dyes were found effective on gram positive and negative bacteria by agar diffusion method and all the 'dyed fabrics' also showed more than 92% or 94% reduction of S. aureus or K. pneumoniae respectively by 'AATCC 100' method. Structures of the dyes were optimized using Density Functional Theory (DFT) to deduce stable tautomeric form. Calculated HOMO-LUMO gap is then compared with antibacterial activities. Electrophilicity index and lightfastness property were also compared and found to have very good correlation.

EcoSun Pass: A tool to evaluate the ecofriendliness of UV filters used in sunscreen products

OBJECTIVE

Sunscreens play a major role in the EU sun protection strategy in order to prevent humans from UV light-induced skin damage. In recent years, the demand for high-quality sunscreen products including aspects of broad range and photostability of the UV protection, showing good spreadability onto human skin and excellent sensorial properties during and after application has increased. Environmental aspects are considered. Sunscreens are complex compositions, with UV filters being the key element in the formulations reaching up to about 30% in content in the final product. Some of these ingredients, however, may be regarded as hazardous for the aquatic environment. Nevertheless, the aquatic ecosystem represents only a single environmental compartment, which may be impacted by UV filters. Therefore, the EcoSun Pass (ESP) tool was developed in order to assess the overall environmental impact of UV filters in combination with its efficacy (Sun Protection Factor, SPF and UVA Protection Factor, UVA-PF).

METHODS

For that purpose, at first 24 of the EU-approved UV filters for sunscreen applications were evaluated for their environmental hazard profiles. Nine example UV filter compositions representing both SPF 30 and 50 were evaluated for ecofriendliness using the ESP tool.

RESULTS

The results revealed that two out of four SPF 30 compositions are considered as ecofriendly. Likewise, from the SPF 50 two out of five did meet the criteria for ecofriendliness. Furthermore, the results showed that most ecofriendly example formulations have also the lowest overall UV filter content in the product, based on the use of highly innovative and least hazardous UV filters.

CONCLUSION

These results demonstrate that the tool is applicable to various formulations being present on the market and thus allows for a selection of most ecofriendly and efficient UV filters to be used in sunscreens.

Pinterest Homemade Sunscreens: A Recipe for Sunburn

Social media, specifically Pinterest with more than 175 million users, has changed the way people seek and share health information. Recent consumer interest in natural products has led to an increase of shared recipes for homemade products including sunscreen. Homemade sunscreen products are risky because they are not regulated or tested for efficacy like commercial sunscreens. With rising skin cancer rates, the use of effective broadband sunscreen is critical to reduce incidence of skin cancer. This study used directed content analysis to examine how homemade sunscreens were portrayed on Pinterest. Using the search terms, homemade sunscreen and natural sunscreen, researchers sampled every fifth pin to collect 189 relevant pins. A codebook was developed, pilot tested, and used to code pins. Two researchers coded pins and interrater reliability was established at 90%. Of the 189 pins, the majority of pins (95.2%) positively portrayed the effectiveness of homemade sunscreens and 68.3% recommended recipes for homemade sunscreens that offered insufficient UV radiation protection. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) claims were made in 33.3% of pins with a range of SPF 2 to SPF 50. In this sample of pins, 41.8% of pins had been saved by other users ranging from one to more than 21,000 times. Social media is a powerful source of health information. However, this study revealed widespread interest and acceptance of insufficient sun protection information. Pinterest and the interest in homemade recipes for sunscreen present an opportunity for public health professionals to proactively engage on social media. Abbreviations: US: United States; SPF: sun protection factor; USFDA: United states food and drug administration; UV: ultraviolet.

Hydroxy-3-Phenylcoumarins as Multitarget Compounds for Skin Aging Diseases: Synthesis, Molecular Docking and Tyrosinase, Elastase, Collagenase and Hyaluronidase Inhibition, and Sun Protection Factor

Skin aging is a progressive biological process of the human body, and it is not only time-dependent. Differently substituted 3-phenylcoumarins proved to efficiently inhibit tyrosinase. In the current work, new substitution patterns have been explored, and the biological studies were extended to other important enzymes involved in the processes of skin aging, as elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. From the studied series, five compounds presented inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, one compound against elastase, eight compounds against collagenase and two compounds against hyaluronidase, being five compounds dual inhibitors. The 3-(4'-Bromophenyl)-5,7-dihydroxycoumarin (1) and 3-(3'-bromophenyl)-5,7-dihydroxycoumarin (2) presented the best profiles against tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 1.05 µM and 7.03 µM) and collagenase (IC₅₀ = 123.4 µM and 110.4 µM); the 3-(4'-bromophenyl)-6,7-dihydroxycoumarin (4) presented a good inhibition against tyrosinase and hyaluronidase; the 3-(3'-bromophenyl)-6,7-dihydroxycoumarin (5) showed an effective tyrosinase and elastase inhibition; and 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3'-hydroxyphenyl)coumarin (11) presented a dual profile inhibition against collagenase and hyaluronidase. Furthermore, considering the overall activities tested, compounds 1 and 2 proved to be the most promising anti-aging compounds. These compounds also showed to have a photo-protective effect, without being cytotoxic to human skin keratinocyte cells. To predict the binding site with the target enzymes, computational studies were also carried out.

Evaluation of octyl p-methoxycinnamate included in liposomes and cyclodextrins in anti-solar preparations: preparations, characterizations and in vitro penetration studies

PURPOSE

Awareness of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation has led to the increasing use of sunscreens, thus, the development of safe and effective antisolar preparations is important. The inclusion of sunscreen molecules in different release systems, like liposomes (lipo) and cyclodextrins (CD) is therefore required.

METHODS

The in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), water resistance, and in vitro transdermal penetration test of octyl p-methoxycinnamate (OMC) in different dispersions, such as OMC encapsulated in liposomes (lipo/OMC), OMC encapsulated in β-cyclodextrins (β-CD/OMC), OMC encapsulated in both release systems (lipo/OMC and β-CD/OMC), and an OMC-free formulation were determined.

RESULTS

Although the formulation containing only the lipo/OMC system revealed high value of in vivo SPF (11.0 ± 1.3) and water resistance (SPF = 10.3 ± 2.2), the formulation containing both release systems (lipo/OMC + β-cyclodextrin/OMC) showed the best result in the in vivo SPF test (11.6 ± 1.6). In the penetration test, the formulation containing the lipo/OMC system had better performance, since a high amount of OMC in the epidermis (18.04 ± 1.17 μg) and a low amount of OMC in the dermis (9.4 ± 2.36 μg) were observed. These results suggest that liposomes interact with the cells of the stratum corneum, promoting retention of OMC in this layer.

CONCLUSION

According to our study, the lipo/OMC system is the most advantageous release system, due to its ability to both increase the amount of OMC in the epidermis and decrease the risk of percutaneous absorption.

A Bioinspired Skin UV Filter with Broadband UV Protection, Photostability, and Resistance to Oxidative Damage

In recent years, sunscreens' adverse impacts on the environment and biology have gained wide attention. The improvement of sunscreen safety has become one of the major priorities in skin photoprotection research. It is an effective strategy to develop bionic photoprotective materials by simulating the photoprotective mechanism existing in nature. Inspired by the photoprotective mechanisms of skin and plant leaves, the bionic photoprotective material CS-SA-PDA nanosheet was developed using the free radical grafting method and Michael addition, with natural melanin analogue polydopamine (PDA) nanoparticles and plant sunscreen molecular sinapic acid (SA) as sun protection factors and natural polymer chitosan (CS) as the connecting arm. The results show that CS-SA-PDA can effectively shield UVB and UVA due to the possible synergistic effect between PDA and SA. The introduction of polymer CS significantly improved the photostability of SA and reduced the skin permeability of PDA nanoparticles. The CS-SA-PDA nanosheet can also effectively scavenge photoinduced free radicals. Furthermore, in vivo toxicity and anti-UV evaluations confirm that CS-SA-PDA has no skin irritation and is excellent against skin photodamage, which makes it an ideal skin photoprotective material.

Anti-inflammatory / anti-oxidant activity of ingredients of sunscreen products? Implications for SPF

OBJECTIVE

The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreen products is derived from testing in vivo their ability to prevent erythema ("sunburn"). Recently, certain articles have raised concerns that sunscreen products may actively suppress erythema via anti-inflammatory / anti-oxidant (AI/AO) activity. These articles reason that this may result in a higher labelled SPF value than that provided by the efficacy of the UVR filters alone, giving consumers a "false sense of security". On the other hand, since inflammatory processes are known to play a role in the mechanisms of photodamage / skin cancer induction and propagation, AI/AO activity may provide valuable incremental photoprotective benefit (provided that there is no interference with visible erythema). The objective of these studies, therefore, was to investigate the potential of AI/AO ingredients to suppress UVR-induced erythemal response in human skin, in vivo.

METHODS

In vivo studies with SPF30 sunscreen formulations containing a variety of AI/AO ingredients were performed according to the International Standard ISO24444:2010 method. While ISO24444:2010 requires assessment of erythema at 20 ± 4h post-irradiation, an additional assessment at 5 h post-irradiation was also used to determine potential delay in erythema development.

RESULTS

None of the formulations, containing a variety of AI/AO ingredients, influenced SPF determination in comparison to the vehicle formulation.

CONCLUSION

Our in vivo results demonstrate that commonly-used AI/AO ingredients, at concentrations typically used in sunscreen products, neither influence SPF value nor delay erythemal response, i.e., the measured SPF reflects the true photoprotective capacity of the product.

Application of SPF moisturisers is inferior to sunscreens in coverage of facial and eyelid regions

Many moisturisers contain sun protection factors (SPF) equivalent to those found in sunscreens. However, there is a lack of research into how SPF moisturiser application compares to sunscreens in terms of coverage achieved and protection afforded. Previously we demonstrated that users incompletely covered their eyelid regions during routine sunscreen application. Here, we aimed to determine if SPF moisturiser users also displayed these tendencies. A study population of 84 participants (22 males, 62 females, age 18–57) were exposed to UV radiation and photographed using a tripod mounted UV sensitive DSLR camera on two separate visits. At visit one, images were acquired before and after applying either SPF30 sunscreen or moisturiser, then at visit two the study was repeated with the other formulation. Images were processed for facial landmark identification followed by segmentation mapping of hue saturation values to identify areas of the face that were/were not covered. Analyses revealed that application of moisturiser was significantly worse than sunscreen in terms area of the whole face missed (11.1% missed with sunscreen compared to 16.6% for SPF moisturiser p<0.001 paired t-test). This difference was primarily due to decreased coverage of the eyelid regions (14.0% missed with sunscreen, 20.9% moisturiser, p<0.001). Analysis of a post-study questionnaire revealed participants to be unaware of their incomplete coverage. Secondary analyses revealed improved coverage in males (p = 0.05), and, with moisturiser only, in participants with darker skin tones (p = 0.02). Together these data indicate that, despite potential advantages in terms of increased frequency of application of moisturiser, the areas of the face that are at higher cancer risk are likely not being protected, and that participants are unaware that they are at risk. As such, alternative sun-protection strategies should be promoted.

Revealing the relationship between molecular weight of lignin and its color, UV-protecting property

Lignin has great potential as a natural, green, and sustainable broad-spectrum sunscreen active ingredient. However, the coexistence of dark color and sunscreen properties hinders its application in cosmetics. In this study, we focus on the effects of the molecular weight of lignin on tis UV-protecting property and color in order to prepare lignin-based sunscreen with high performance. A prepared sunscreen containing low molecular weight lignin (F5, <1000 g/mol) exhibits good UV-protecting property (sun protection factor (SPF) = 7.14) and light color advantages (ΔE = 46.2). Moreover, a strong synergistic effect on UV-protecting property exists between low molecular weight lignin and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), resulting in high SPF of F5@EHMC-based sunscreen (55.56). Additionally, added TiO2 can efficiently mitigate the dark color of lignin-based sunscreens due to prominent covering power of TiO2. Moreover, lignin-based sunscreens have good biocompatibility with HaCaT cells. This work is useful for understanding the mechanism of the UV-protecting property and dark color of lignin, and for designing an efficient and safe lignin-based sunscreen.

Nanovesicle-based formulations for photoprotection: a safety and efficacy approach

Vesicular nanosystems are versatile and they are able to encapsulate actives with different solubilities, such as lipophilic and hydrophilic compounds. The most well-known vesicular nanosystems are liposomes and niosomes, the last one is formed by non-ionic surfactants. In the present work, we developed photoprotective niosomes containing sunscreens (octyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), non-ionic surfactants, cholesterol and stearylamine (positive-charged lipid). Studies based on dynamic light scattering techniques, entrapment efficiency and morphology by transmission electron microscopy were performed to characterize the niosomes. In addition, rheology, pH, in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) efficacy and toxicity and in vivo and in vitro safety were determined for the niosome formulations F-N1 and F-N2. The mean sizes of N1 and N2 were 168 ± 5 nm and 192 ± 8 nm, respectively, and their morphologies were spherical, unilamellar and with an entrapment efficiency of more than 45% for each sunscreen. Both formulations, F-N1 and F-N2 presented characteristics of pseudoplastic non-Newtonian fluids, showing declining viscosity with increasing shear rate applied. SPF values were considered satisfactory, 34 ± 8 for formulation F-N1 and 34 ± 5 for F-N2. The formulations did not present toxicity when tested in macrophages and the pH was compatible with skin, which minimizes allergies. The in vitro safety assay showed lipophilic sunscreens greater affinity for the epidermis, since this layer contains natural lipids. In vivo safety assay suggests that the increased skin retention of N2 is directly correlated with the positive charge of stearylamine. Stable photoprotective niosomes were obtained and were shown to be promising nanostructures to be used against solar radiation.

Revisiting the Role of Irradiance in the Determination of Sunscreens' Sun Protection Factor

The efficacy of a sunscreen tends to be associated with its sun protection factor (SPF) value, a figure determined in a test that relies on the independence of the SPF value to both UV radiation dose and irradiance. We probe these assumptions when photoinduced product degradation is present, and we estimate that the theoretical limit for their validity is when the sunfilter active molecule relaxation time is faster than ∼10 ns. While such threshold relaxation time should be compatible with the expected ultrafast relaxation mechanisms of sunfilter molecules (picoseconds), recent research on sunfilter photodynamics has identified the existence of much longer-lived molecular states. Such long lifetimes could compromise sunscreen performance and make the SPF value very different in natural sun irradiance conditions than in the solar simulated conditions typically used in SPF determination tests.

Ultraviolet filters in the United States and European Union: A review of safety and implications for the future of US sunscreens

BACKGROUND

Availability of new UV filters in the United States lags behind the European Union (EU), partly due to differing approval processes.

OBJECTIVE

To review available human safety data of all US- and EU-approved UV filters.

METHODS

Data from Food and Drug Administration and EU regulatory guidelines, federal governmental documentation, databases, reviews, and opinions for approval and ongoing safety evaluation were analyzed.

RESULTS

Currently, there are 17 US UV filters and 29 EU UV filters (18 EU-approved only filters). Almost all US filters possessed sensitization data (94%, 16/17) with the majority (76%, 13/17) showing minimal skin sensitization. The minority of EU-approved only filters (33%, 6/18) possessed sensitization data, all showing no sensitization. Some filters possessed dermal absorption data (US: 76%, 13/17; EU: 44%, 8/18). Oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, homosalate, and octocrylene, approved in the US and EU, were shown to have plasma levels exceeding the Food and Drug Administration exposure threshold.

LIMITATIONS

Proprietary manufacturer human data were unavailable.

CONCLUSIONS

Many new UV filters are available in the EU, but not yet in the United States. Rigorous US and EU guidelines ensure that UV filters provide adequate photoprotection assuming consumers follow American Academy of Dermatology SPF (sun protection factor) and broad-spectrum recommendations. Human data are limited, but known human risks of sunscreen appear minimal.

Noninvasive measurement of the 308 nm LED-based UVB protection factor of sunscreens

The current method for determining the sun protection factor (SPF) requires erythema formation. Noninvasive alternatives have recently been suggested by several groups. Our group previously developed a functional sensor based on diffuse reflectance measurements with one UVB LED, which was previously evaluated on pig ear skin. Here we present the results of a systematic in vivo study using 12 sunscreens on 10 volunteers (skin types [ST] I-III). The relationship of the UVB-LED reflectance of unprotected skin and melanin index was determined for each ST. The spatial variation of the reflectance signal of different positions was analyzed and seems to be mainly influenced by sample inhomogeneity except for high-protection factors (PFs) where signal levels are close to detection noise. Despite the low-signal levels, a correlation of the measured LED-based UVB PF with SPF reference values from test institutes with R² = 0.57 is obtained, suggesting a strong relationship of SPF and LED-based UVB-PF. Measured PFs tend to be lower for increasing skin pigmentation. The sensor design seems to be suitable for investigations where a fast measurement of relative changes of PFs, such as due to inhomogeneous application, bathing and sweating, is of interest.

In vivo sun protection factor and UVA protection factor determination using (hybrid) diffuse reflectance spectroscopy and a multi-lambda-LED light source

The sun protection factor (SPF) values are currently determined using an invasive procedure, in which the volunteers are irradiated with ultraviolet (UV) light. Non-invasive approaches based on hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS) have shown a good correlation with conventional SPF testing. Here, we present a novel compact and adjustable DRS test system. The in vivo measurements were performed using a multi-lambda-LED light source and an 84-channel imaging spectrograph with a fiber optic probe for detection. A transmission spectrum was calculated based on the reflectance measured with sunscreen and the reflectance measured without sunscreen. The preexposure in vitro spectrum was fitted to the in vivo spectrum. Each of the 11 test products was investigated on 10 volunteers. The SPF and UVA-PF values obtained by this new approach were compared with in vivo SPF results determined by certified test institutes. A correlation coefficient R² = 0.86 for SPF, and R² = 0.92 for UVA-PF were calculated. Having examined various approaches to apply the HDRS principle, the method we present was found to produce valid and reproducible results, suggesting that the multi-lambda-LED device is suitable for in-vivo SPF testing based on the HDRS principle as well as for in-vivo UVA-PF measurements.

Development and evaluation of sunscreen cream containing solid lipid nanoparticles of Spinacia oleraceae

More research is needed to understand the benefits of environmentally safe and human-friendly herbal-based sunscreen agents against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Because of the toxicity of synthetic chemicals in photoprotective agents, researchers were increasingly focusing on herbal photoprotective formulations. The photoprotective agent's skin retention can be considerably improved by forming solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). The study's objective is to evaluate the photoprotective potential of sunscreen cream containing spinach (Spinacia oleracea)-loaded SLN. A solvent emulsification technique was used to develop the spinach-loaded SLN. The various characterization techniques of the developed SLN were performed. Out of all the formulations, the optimized one was fitted into cream and estimated for its photoprotective action. The images obtained from scanning electron microscopy (SEM) revealed the morphological characteristics of the prepared SLN. The sunscreen cream's viscosity, spreadability, extrudability, and release rate were within acceptable limits. The formulation's in vitro and in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) was reported to be 15.9 and 14.75, respectively. The results indicated that the prepared formulation possesses good photoprotective action. The accelerated stability tests were carried out with no noticeable changes in the parameters. Our work demonstrated the possibility of using spinach-loaded SLN as a photoprotective agent in cosmetic formulations.