A preliminary study to understand the effects of mask on tinted face cosmetics

Background

The recent COVID‐19 pandemic has generalized the use of face mask in public area, and it is now common to wear it for long hours. But face mask interfere with cosmetics, and key concerns for tinted products are staining of the mask and degradation on face. Consumers have modified beauty routine by a decrease of makeup, but are now expecting new products adapted to face mask. Little is known about the mechanisms that affect most the makeup under the face mask, so that further studies are needed to develop adequate evaluation methods and products. In this study, the color transfer on mask and makeup degradation on face are assessed through a mixed approach of consumer and instrumental evaluation.

Materials and Methods

Two tinted face products (A and B) were applied by half face on 11 Japanese women, who conducted real‐life activities with a face mask during 4 hours. Panelists evaluated the stain of their face mask by visual assessment, while the makeup degradation on face was evaluated by color measurement by instrumental method.

Results

No difference was observed between the two products for lasting on face, but consumer evaluation showed a better resistance of product A for color transfer on mask.

Conclusion

The mix of instrumental and consumer evaluation is a promising way to evaluate the makeup degradation on face and color transfer on mask, which are two key factors to develop mask resistant makeup products.

A new procedure, free from human assessment, that automatically grades some facial skin signs in men from selfie pictures. Application to changes induced by a severe aerial chronic urban pollution

OBJECTIVE

These were two folds: at first, to develop an automatic grading system specifically dedicated to some facial signs of men, similar to the one previously validated on women of different ethnic ancestry and second, to assess its potential in detecting and grading the possible impacts of a severe aerial urban pollution on some facial signs of Chinese men.

METHODS

In both studies, selfie images were obtained from differently aged men. Nine facial signs were automatically graded through a specific A.I-based algorithm and clinically assessed by a panel of experts and dermatologists. Selfie pictures were taken from individual smartphones of variable optical properties. The first study, designed for developing an automatic grading system, involved three comparable cohorts of men from three different regional ancestries (African, Asian, Caucasian, 110 each) the selfie images of which were acquired under four different lighting conditions. As a second use case study, the facial signs of two cohorts of Chinese men (101 and 100, each), differently aged, regularly exposed to very different aerial urban pollution conditions (UP) were analysed by the same algorithm, selfies being taken under only one lighting condition.

RESULTS

-The new automatic grading system of facial signs suits well to men, showing comparable results than that the one dedicated to women and provides data in close agreement with experts' assessments. -In both cases (expert's or automatic methodology), the accuracy of the scores appeared ethnic-dependent. -The applied case confirmed previous results obtained clinically, that is, that many facial signs were found of an increased severity among men exposed to a severe urban pollution, as compared to those living in a less polluted city. -In both studies, statistical agreements between the automatic grading system and expert's assessments were reached. In some facial signs, the automatic grading system seems offering a slightly better accuracy than the assessments made by the experts.

CONCLUSION

Apart from some minor limitations, this A.I-based automatic grading system, free from human intervention, performed as well as the one previously developed in women, in close agreement with expert's assessments. In epidemiological studies, this system offers an easy, fast, affordable and confidential approach in the detection and quantification of male facial signs.

Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age and skin plumpness among differently aged Korean women

OBJECTIVE

To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age and plumpness on Korean women of different ages.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Photographs were taken of the faces of 112 Korean women of different ages (18-80 years) under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 19 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, Pigmentation disorders, Vascular disorders, and Cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 92 Korean women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to: (a) attribute on a 0-10 scale their perception of the skin plumpness (ie supple/hydrated/nourished) and (b) estimate the age of the subject.

RESULTS

With the exception of Vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The Wrinkles/Texture or Ptosis/Sagging showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found highly correlated, half of the subjects were judged older by 2-12 years. The facial signs/clusters were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of vascular disorders, size of pigmentary spots and cheek skin pores. The weights in perceived ages of Wrinkles/Texture and Ptosis/Sagging represent 37% each and Pigmentation disorders at 26%. Skin plumpness was logically found significantly anti-correlated with perceived age. If, surprisingly, Vascular disorders were found not impacting the plumpness aspect, Cheek skin pores presented a clear influence.

CONCLUSION

Within facial clinical clusters, Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, and Pigmentation disorders are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Korean women. The perception of a decreased skin plumpness is significantly associated with increased perceived age.

Changes in the eye contour signs due to age among Mexican women: Comparison with women of other ethnic origins

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the changes in certain ocular signs because of age, among Mexican women and to compare these with those previously obtained on women of other ethnicities.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Photographs were taken of the faces of 203 Mexican women of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed us to focus and define nine ocular signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. Hence, the same protocol, previously used on 3240 women of four other ethnic origins (Caucasian: 600; Chinese: 990; Japanese: 1010; Indian: 300; African: 340), allowed us to compare the results obtained on Mexican women.

RESULTS

The severity of crow's feet wrinkles for Mexican women shows a more intense progression with age than those of women from other ancestries. The lower eyelid wrinkles of Mexican women, that show weak or erratic changes with time, were however found to have higher and significant severity at a young age. Pigmentation disorders of their ocular area were found less pronounced as compared to those of Asian or Indian women. Eye bags were observed with similar slight changes in all five ancestries.

CONCLUSION

The present work confirms that the clinical signs of age for the female eye area develop differently depending on the ethnic origins of the volunteer.

A Split-Face Study Assessing the Clinical Benefit, Tolerability and Subject Satisfaction of a Dermocosmetic in Subjects with Rosacea Associated with Erythema and Sensitive Skin

Objective

This study assessed the efficacy and tolerability of M89 in patients with rosacea associated with erythema and sensitive skin.

Methods

Intra-individual study in a split-face design comparing after 30 days M89 twice daily and usual skin care in 20 adult subjects with rosacea and sensitive skin. M89 contains 89% Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) and 0.4% hyaluronic acid. It is hypoallergenic and contains no perfume and this convenes in rosacea. Contained minerals reinforce the natural defences of the skin in restoring the natural skin barrier, stimulating antioxidant activity and reducing inflammation, commonly observed in subjects with rosacea. Clinical evaluations included assessment of erythema, desquamation, papules and pustules, skin tightness, dryness, burning sensation, itching, stinging and stinging test as well as local tolerability. Instrumental evaluations included skin hydration and TEWL. Subject satisfaction was assessed at Days 15 and 30. Demodex density was assessed at Day 30.

Results

A significant superiority of M89 over the standard skin care was observed for erythema, skin tightness and dryness (all P≤0.05) as early as Day 15, the skin stinging test was significantly in favour of M89 (P<0.05 at Day 15 and P<0.01 at Day 30) and for skin hydration (P<0.0001) at Day 15 and 30 with no difference in mean Demodex density between M89 and usual skin care after 30 days. Tolerance was excellent and subject satisfaction very high.

Conclusion

Study results concerning M89 are encouraging for its use either alone or as an adjuvant daily skin care to topical medication in patients with persistent centrofacial erythema of rosacea with no more than 3 papules and pustules.

Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age, on a tired-look or a healthy glow among differently aged Chinese men

OBJECTIVE

To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age, tired-look and healthy glow on Chinese men of different ages.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Photographs were taken of the faces of 420 Chinese men of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 15 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely wrinkles/texture, ptosis/sagging, pigmentation disorders, vascular disorders and cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 80 Chinese women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to: (i) attribute on a 0-10 scale their perception of both the tired-look and healthy glow aspects and (ii) estimate the age of the subject.

RESULTS

With the exception of vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The ptosis/sagging or pigmentation disorders showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found to be closely correlated, the vast majority of subjects were judged older by 2-10 years. The changes in facial signs (and their related clusters) were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of skin spot density and cheek skin pores. Although the aspects of tired-look and healthy glow were logically found to be anti-correlated, tired-look was more statistically associated with perceived age for the five clusters. Signs of eye contour appear to be closely correlated with the perception of a tired-look.

CONCLUSION

Within facial clinical clusters, wrinkles/texture and ptosis/sagging are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Chinese men. Tired-look appears to be strongly associated with perceived age.

Evaluating the respective weights of some facial signs on perceived ages in differently aged women of five ethnic origins

BACKGROUND

New gratification assessments, after skincare routines or makeup products, could benefit from innovative methods that could predict the culturally based perceptions of age.

AIMS

To determine the facial signs that most influence the perception of age in women of five different ethnic ancestries, assessed by the same ethnical naïve panel.

PATIENTS/METHODS

The faces of 1351 women, differently aged (18-80 years), from five countries (China, France, India, Japan, and South Africa) were photographed under the same standardized conditions in the five countries. Fourteen to 24 facial signs (grouped under five clusters, ie, Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, Pigmentation disorders, Vascular disorders, and Cheeks skin pores) were focused, and their respective severities were graded using referential Skin Aging Atlases by the same panel of 15 experts and dermatologists. Five naïve panels, all comprising 100 local women, allowed to collect the perceived age, assessed from blind-coded full-face photographs.

RESULTS

Although perceived ages and real ages were found highly correlated, their differences vary according to ethnicities, particularly among a large part of Indian and South African women, judged older by about 5 and 7 years, respectively. Results show that the clusters of Wrinkles/Texture and Ptosis/Sagging are predominant factors taken into account in almost all ethnicities, albeit at various extents, reaching almost 100% in French women. Pigmentation disorders appear important secondary factors in Japanese, South African, and Indian women. Vascular disorders, of a difficult grading in darker skin tones, were found of some impact in Japanese and Chinese women. Cheek skin pores were of minor or nil weight in the attribution of age, at the exception of South African women. Regarding facial areas which drive aging perception, it seems the upper-half face has prevalence for Chinese and Japanese women whereas the lower-half face has major importance for South African women.

CONCLUSION

Facial traits are differently perceived as signs of aging according to un-separable ethnic ancestries and cultural factors.

Gender-related differences in the facial aging of Caucasian French subjects and their relations with perceived ages and tiredness

OBJECTIVES

(a) To assess and compare the changes in five facial signs with age between genders of Caucasian subjects and (b) to evaluate their links with perceived ages and tiredness.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Once zoomed from standardized digital photographs, five facial signs of 518 Caucasian French subjects of both genders and different ages (18-69 years) were graded by 15 experts, using a referential Skin Aging Atlas. A large naïve panel of 1000 French subjects (500 men and 500 women) was asked to attribute a perceived age and a degree of tiredness to 200 subjects (among the 518).

RESULTS

The severity of the facial signs increases with time at a linear-like rate. The changes in marionette lines significantly differ between genders, much more pronounced in women, and nasolabial fold was found more pronounced in men at older ages (>50 years). Before 50's, Forehead wrinkles present a slightly higher severity in men whereas at 50's women present more severe ptosis. Crow's feet wrinkles did not show significant changes. Perceived ages were found significantly correlated with the severities of the facial signs and the perception of tiredness was associated with perceived ages in men, but not in women older than 40 years. The gender-related perceptions from the naïve panel in both perceived ages and tiredness showed a low discrepancy. Interestingly, as for changes in facial signs, the upper-half face seems more affected for men and lower-half face for women; after 40 years, the naïve panel seems more focusing on the same areas to predict a perceived age.

CONCLUSION

As compared to the previous Chinese study, the present work reveals some slight ethnical-related differences, indicating that the facial signs of the lower face play a major role in the assessment of perceived age of both genders from different ethnicity.

Morphometric characteristics of feminine eyebrows: variations with ethnicities and age

OBJECTIVE

To explore some morphological features of the eyebrows of women of different ethnicities and ages.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Standard digital photographs of 3600 women of six ethnicities, aged 18-84 years, previously used to describe the morphology of the human eyes, allowed us to focus on their eyebrows, as supplementary and opportunistic study. Photographs of both eyebrows were analysed partly by manual markings and automatically by dedicated algorithms. Six parameters of the eyebrows were recorded: length, waviness/curvature, oblique aspect, size (vertical height), total surface and hair coverage (density).

RESULTS

Most criteria present ethnic specificities. These are: length (longer eyebrows of Indian, shorter among African women); waviness where the straighter eyebrows were found among Chinese and Japanese women. In general, the longer the eyebrows, the higher their waviness and vice versa. Thickness (or height) of the eyebrows presents a wide ethnic variability as well as hair coverage, where African women present the lower hair density, inversely to Indian women. The same holds true with regard to the total surface of eyebrows, of a large variability (by about four times). Some criteria appear more individually dependent than ethnic-specific, such as the oblique positioning, at the exception of Indian women with less oblique eyebrows. In all subjects, the criteria of both eyebrows (Left vs. Right) were found to be highly correlated (r > 0.7, P < 0.001).

CONCLUSION

The present investigation brings new findings on a scarcely studied facial element, the morphologic features of which are, for most, ethnic-dependent. As applied consequences, the results of the present work pave the road to better adapt adorning procedures of the eyebrows vis-à-vis ethnic and age specificities.

Assessing the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on some facial signs of differently-aged Chinese men

OBJECTIVE

To assess the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on the severities of some facial signs of Chinese men living in two close but differently polluted Chinese cities.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Standardized digital photographs were taken on 201 subjects from two cohorts of Chinese men (100 inhabitants of Baoding/very polluted and 101 inhabitants of Dalian/less polluted) differently aged (20-60 years) allowing a focus on 17 different facial signs. The latter were graded by 15 experts, using a clinical referential skin atlas. A questionnaire was filled by all subjects collecting their habits and uses with regard sun-exposures and skincare products. A naïve panel of 80 Chinese women, of comparable ages, attributed a perceived age to each subject under blind conditions.

RESULTS

These confirm previous data obtained on Chinese women, with a similar protocol, i.e. that some facial signs show an increased severity in the more polluted city. However, changes in facial signs, with age, are of a different pattern according to gender. In Chinese men, most signs show early onsets with however low age-related changes, inversely to those observed in women, at the exception of vascular disorders. Habits of sun-exposures and uses of skincare product were found totally similar in both cohorts, reinforcing the specific role of UP in the progressive changes of facial signs. Similar to the results previously obtained on Chinese women, men living in a more polluted city were judged older than those living in a less polluted aerial environment.

CONCLUSION

The present work confirms that a more severe UP increases the severities of some facial signs in Chinese men.

Distinct Habits Of Sun Exposures Lead To Different Impacts On Some Facial Signs Of Chinese Men Of Different Ages

Objective

To clinically evaluate the impacts of sun exposures on some facial signs of differently aged Chinese men with a distinct behavior vis à vis sun exposures.

Methods

Two comparable cohorts of Chinese men (aged 18-75 years old), living in two cities (Shanghai, Hong Kong) were created according to their usual behavior towards sun exposure and through their variable use(s) of a photo-protective product, i.e. non-sun-phobic (N = 127) and sun-phobic (N = 134). Standard photographs (full-face and 45° lateral) allowed to focus on 13 facial signs that were further graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using a referential Skin Aging Atlas. Absolute differences in the scores of each sign were used (non-sun-phobic minus sun-phobic), by age-classes, to better ascertain the impact of sun exposures and a photo-protecting product, when used.

Results

Most facial signs, particularly wrinkles and skin texture, differentiated the two cohorts. Some others showed some erratic changes with age, albeit more pronounced at older ages. In contrast with previous results obtained in Chinese women, the changes observed in men were not only of a lessened severity but were undetected at early ages (<30 years old). Overall, these different behaviors with regard to sun exposures led to significant differences in the facial signs of Chinese men. The latter can be illustrated by two virtual morphings that combine the impacts of both intrinsic and extrinsic aging processes.

Conclusion

The present work illustrates, for the first time, some specificities of the impacts of sun exposures on the facial skin of Chinese men, more expressed at older ages, inversely to those observed in Chinese women, occurring at younger ages.

A randomized study to evaluate the efficacy and effectiveness of two sunscreen formulations on Indian skin types IV and V with pigmentation irregularities

Background

Regular exposure to ultraviolet rays is high in India, where most Indians present Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV and V.

Aims

To evaluate the efficacy and compare the effectiveness of two sunscreen products on Indian skin types IV and V with pigmentation irregularities.

Methods

A randomized, uncontrolled and investigator-blinded, single-center study enrolled adult men and women (18-45 years) with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV (28° < individual typological angle <10°) and V (10° < individual typological angle < -30°) with pigmentary abnormalities seen on the face in adults (actinic lentigines and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation), who did not use sunscreens. Participants were randomized (1:1) to either of the two marketed sunscreen products, Product A (sun protection factor 50 PA+++) or Product B (sun protection factor 19 PA+++), applied twice daily before sun exposure for ≥2 h. Primary objectives aimed at assessing possible improvement in hyperpigmented spots and overall skin appearance after 12 weeks of use. Evaluation of skin radiance and skin color was done by means of L'Oréal color chart and colorimetric measurements (Chromameter^®).

Results

Among the 230 enrolled participants, 216 (93.91%) completed the study. The clinical assessment of the density of pigmented spots and skin radiance showed significant (P < 0.001) improvement in both groups during all visits. The qualitative (participant perception) and quantitative (Chromameter^®) data indicated improvement in pigmentation from Week 0 to Week 12. Both products were well-tolerated.

Limitations

The study was conducted over a rather short period of time (12 weeks) at a single location.

Conclusions

This is the first study conducted on Indian skin phototypes IV and V under real-life conditions. It demonstrated the effect of regular sunscreen usage in the prevention of certain signs of skin photoaging such as increased pigmentation or pigmentary abnormalities, thus providing support and assistance to clinicians in suggesting the use of efficient sun-screening products to patients.

Mapping, in vivo, the uniformity of two skin properties alongside the human face by a 3D virtual approach

OBJECTIVE

To determine the homogeneity in the distribution of two cutaneous functions (hydration and elasticity) along the entire human face.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The half faces (right or left, randomly chosen) of two groups of Caucasian women were measured on 24 different small sites (elasticity) and 41 others (hydration), by instruments of small-sized probes (Cutometer^® and Corneometer^® , respectively). Hydration of the face was recorded at different times (up to 24 h), post application of a highly hydrating product. The recorded values (left and right half faces) were further gathered and digitally positioned on a virtual feminine face and their intensity was illustrated through a colored white (lower values)-blue (higher values) scale.

RESULTS

The reconstitution of the mapping of the two measured parameters (from the left and right sides of different subjects), shows a perfect symmetry vis à vis the nose axis. However, both parameters present slightly variable but significant values along the human face. Sites from the temple are less elastic than chin or forehead. The upper and lower parts of the forehead show slight disparities in their elasticity values. Cheeks are significantly less prone at retaining their imparted hydration status (lost 2 h after application of a hydrating product) as compared to sub-ocular regions or chin that retain their hydration up to 24 h. Attempts to establish a mutual relationship between the two skin properties unsurprisingly failed.

CONCLUSION

The two studied skin properties show a slight but highly symmetric disparity along the entire human face.

Developing a new device for continuously recording, in vivo, the excretion rate of sweat (perspiration) in humans

BACKGROUND

Some methodologies used for evaluating sweat production and antiperspirants are of a stationary aspect, that is, most often performed under warm (38°C) but resting conditions in a rather short period of time. The aim is to develop an electronic sensor apt at continuously recording sweat excretion, in vivo, during physical exercises, exposure to differently heated environments, or any other stimuli that may provoke sweat excretion.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

A sensor (20 cm² ) is wrapped under a double-layered textile pad. Fixed onto the armpits, these two arrays of electrodes are connected to electronic system through an analog multiplexer. A microcontroller is used to permanently record changes in the conductance between two electrodes during exposure of subjects to different sweat-inducing conditions or to assess the efficacy of applied aluminum hydrochloride (ACH)-based roll-ons at two concentrations (5% and 15%).

RESULTS

In vitro calibration, using a NaCl 0.5% solution, allows changes in mV to be related with progressively increased volumes. In vivo, results show that casual physical exercise leads to sweat excretions much higher than in warm environment (37 or 45°C). Only, an exposure to a 50°C environment induced comparable sweat excretion. In this condition, sweat excretions were found similar in both armpits and both genders. Decreased sweat excretions were recorded following applications of ACH, with a dose effect.

CONCLUSION

Developing phases of this new approach indicate that usual method or guidelines used to determine sweat excretions in vivo do not reflect true energy expenditure processes. As a consequence, they probably over-estimate the efficacy of antiperspirant agents or formulae.