Photostability of sunscreens

Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

The impact of sunscreen formulations on the barrier properties of human skin are often overlooked leading to formulations with components whose effects on barrier mechanical integrity are poorly understood. The aim of this study is to demonstrate the relevance of carrier selection and sunscreen photostability when designing sunscreen formulations to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC) from solar ultraviolet (UV) damage. Biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed after accelerated UVB damage through measurements of the SC's mechanical stress profile and corneocyte cohesion. A narrowband UVB (305-315 nm) lamp was used to expose SC samples to 5, 30, 125, and 265 J cm-2 in order to magnify damage to the mechanical properties of the tissue and characterize the UV degradation dose response such that effects from smaller UV dosages can be extrapolated. Stresses in the SC decreased when treated with sunscreen components, highlighting their effect on the skin prior to UV exposure. Stresses increased with UVB exposure and in specimens treated with different sunscreens stresses varied dramatically at high UVB dosages. Specimens treated with sunscreen components without UVB exposure exhibited altered corneocyte cohesion. Both sunscreens studied prevented alteration of corneocyte cohesion by low UVB dosages, but differences in protection were observed at higher UVB dosages indicating UV degradation of one sunscreen. These results indicate the protection of individual sunscreen components vary over a range of UVB dosages, and components can even cause alteration of the biomechanical barrier properties of human SC before UV exposure. Therefore, detailed characterization of sunscreen formulation components is required to design robust protection from UV damage.

Using ordered mesoporous silica SBA-15 to limit cutaneous penetration and transdermal permeation of organic UV filters

Avobenzone (AVO), oxybenzone (OXY), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), are widely used UV filters. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of incorporation in mesoporous silica (SBA-15) on their cutaneous deposition and permeation. Stick formulations containing "free" and "incorporated" UV filters (SF1 and SF2, respectively) were prepared and characterized with respect to their physicochemical, thermal, and functional properties. Cutaneous delivery experiments using porcine skin with quantification by UHPLC-MS/MS, demonstrated that skin deposition of AVO and OXY after application of SF2 for 6 and 12 h was significantly lower than that from SF1 at each time-point (Student t-test, p < 0.05): e.g. OXY permeation across the skin was 30-, 12- and 1.5-fold lower after 6, 12 and 24 h, respectively, following application of SF2. Cutaneous biodistribution profiles of AVO and OXY to 800 µm evidenced a significant decrease in the amounts in the viable epidermis and dermis. In contrast, deposition of the more lipophilic OMC was not significantly different (p ˃ 0.05). In vitro photoprotective efficacy results demonstrated that adsorption/entrapment of UV filters enhanced the sun protection factor by 94%. In conclusion, SBA-15, an innovative mesoporous material, increased photoprotection by UV filters while reducing their cutaneous penetration and transdermal permeation.

Analysis of photokinetics of 2'-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate in sunscreens

2'-Ethylhexyl-4-Methoxycinnamate (EHMC), also designated as octinoxate, is an oily UV-absorber used in sunscreens for the protection of human skin against solar UV-radiation and represents one of the most employed UVB absorbers for that application. In water-in-oil emulsions EHMC was adjusted at a constant overall concentration, while changing the EHMC concentration in the oil droplets by adding a non-absorbing oil. In that way the EHMC concentration could be varied at constant optical thickness. Here we show that the kinetics of the photoreaction follows a second-order rate law, in line with the UV-induced [2 + 2]-cycloaddition reaction mechanism known for this UV absorber. The second-order rate constant decreased with higher overall EHMC concentration. This can be explained by the fact, that at higher overall concentration of the UV absorber not every EHMC molecule will absorb a photon due to the increased optical density, so that on average less photons are absorbed per molecule. On the other hand, the rate constant increases with decreasing polarity of the surrounding oil. Since the molar fraction of the trans-isomer of EHMC is augmented at lower polarity, more photons are absorbed in this case, as the strength of the absorption band of the trans-isomer is significantly higher than that of the cis-isomer. In conclusion, our experiments show that a high polarity of the oil phase and a high concentration of EHMC are advantageous for the photostability of this compound.

Phototoxic risk assessment on benzophenone UV filters: In vitro assessment and a theoretical model

Benzophenones (BPs), filtering out both UVA and UVB rays, are widely used in a great variety of sunscreens and personal care products. However, they have not been extensively studied for the mechanisms of UV-absorbing toxicity. In this study, we used CPZ (chlorpromazine) as a positive control and SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate) as a negative control, and the phototoxic of BP-1, BP-3 and BP-4 were investigated in vitro assays using three cell types under different UV exposure conditions. This was followed by setting up a theoretical model, which was adopted to predict and compare the phototoxicity. It was found that Balb/c 3T3 (Balb/c 3T3 fibroblast cell lines) showed sensitivity to UVA+ and UVB+ exposure, while the HS68 (human HS68 fibroblast cell lines) to UVA+ and the HaCaT (human HaCaT keratinocyte cell lines) to UVB+. The test compound, BP-1, was detected to be phototoxic at UVA+ conditions, but BP-3 and BP-4 were discovered to be non-phototoxic at UVA+ conditions. This demonstrated that BP-1, BP-3 and BP-4 remained low-risk chemicals under UVB+ condition. The theoretical calculation of the energy gap (E_GAP) showed BP-1(E_GAP) > BP-3(E_GAP) > BP-4(E_GAP).

UVA and UVB Photoprotective Capabilities of Topical Formulations Containing Mycosporine-like Amino Acids (MAAs) through Different Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs)

The safety and stability of synthetic UV-filters and the procedures for evaluating the photoprotective capability of commercial sunscreens are under continuous review. The influence of pH and temperature stressors on the stability of certain Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) isolated at high purity levels was examined. MAAs were highly stable at room temperature during 24 h at pH 4.5–8.5. At 50 °C, MAAs showed instability at pH 10.5 while at 85 °C, progressive disappearances were observed for MAAs through the studied pH range. In alkaline conditions, their degradation was much faster. Mycosporine-serinol and porphyra-334 (+shinorine) were the most stable MAAs under the conditions tested. They were included in four cosmetically stable topical sunscreens, of which the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and other Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs) were calculated. The formulation containing these MAAs showed similar SPF and UVB-BEPFs values as those of the reference sunscreen, composed of synthetic UV absorbing filters in similar percentages, while UVA-BEPFs values were slightly lower. Current in vitro data strongly suggest that MAAs, as natural and safe UV-absorbing and antioxidant compounds, have high potential for protection against the diverse harmful effects of solar UV radiation. In addition, novel complementary in vitro tests for evaluation of commercial sunscreens efficacy are proposed.

Photoprotection or photodamage: a direct observation of nonradiative dynamics from 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate sunscreen agent

Apart from being an analogue of the prototype for photoinduced intramolecular charge transfer (ICT), 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate (EHDMABA) is also one of the earliest patented and most commonly used sunscreen components. There is, however, little documented information about the photophysics and factors affecting the photophysics of this molecule. Such information is of importance for both the understanding of the ICT reaction and assessing the underlying process of photoprotection, especially in view of the "sunscreen controversy" that has arisen from the contrasting in vivo vs. in vitro photobiological results on this and related UV filters. We report herein a femtosecond broadband time-resolved fluorescence (fs-TRF), complemented by transient absorption (fs-TA) to allow a full probe of the excited state cascades for EHDMABA and two of its derivatives in solvents of varied properties. The results provide direct evidence for a nearly solvent independent inner sphere ICT reaction occurring on the sub-picosecond time scale, and an ensuing solvent dictated deactivation of the ICT state. The ICT state in the aprotic solvent acetonitrile decayed solely through the intrinsic intersystem crossing (ISC) to produce a potentially harmful triplet excited state. In the protic solvent, the solvation and formation of ICT-induced solute-solvent hydrogen (H)-bonding opened the originally inaccessible internal conversion (IC) channel of the ICT state, leading to the rapid reformation of the ground state molecule with a unitary efficiency in the aqueous solution. This H-bonding-mediated IC restrained or eliminated the intrinsic ISC, providing a mechanism at the molecular level for the benign dissipation of the electronic excitation. The precise rate of IC was observed to vary with the alkoxy substituent and its efficiency was affected by the H-bonding capacity of the solvent. The findings of this work demonstrate the pivotal role of the microenvironment and the direct participation of solvent molecules through H-bonding in drastically altering the nonradiative dynamics and promoting or inhibiting photostability and photoprotection. This may assist in developing next-generation UV filters and help in improving formulation design for the optimal efficacy of sunscreen products. The pronounced H-bonding-induced fluorescence quenching and variation in the fluorescence wavelength imply that these molecules may also serve as a sensitive fluorescence probe for the H-bonding properties of the microenvironment.

Photoprotection: extending lessons learned from studying natural sunscreens to the design of artificial sunscreen constituents

Evolution has ensured that plants and animals have developed effective protection mechanisms against the potentially harmful effects of incident ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Tanning is one such mechanism in humans, but tanning only occurs post-exposure to UVR. Hence, there is ever growing use of commercial sunscreens to pre-empt overexposure to UVR. Key requirements for any chemical filter molecule used in such a photoprotective capacity include a large absorption cross-section in the UV-A and UV-B spectral regions and the availability of one or more mechanisms whereby the absorbed photon energy can be dissipated without loss of the molecular integrity of the chemical filter. Here we summarise recent experimental (mostly ultrafast pump-probe spectroscopy studies) and computational progress towards unravelling various excited state decay mechanisms that afford the necessary photostability in chemical filters found in nature and those used in commercial sunscreens. We also outline ways in which a better understanding of the photophysics and photochemistry of sunscreen molecules selected by nature could aid the design of new and improved commercial sunscreen formulations.

From fundamental science to product: a bottom-up approach to sunscreen development

Despite the pivotal role of ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sustaining life on Earth, overexposure to this type of radiation can have catastrophic effects, such as skin cancer. Sunscreens, the most common form of artificial protection against such harmful effects, absorb UV radiation before it reaches vulnerable skin cells. Absorption of UV radiation prompts ultrafast molecular events in sunscreen molecules which, ideally, would allow for fast and safe dissipation of the excess energy. However, our knowledge of these mechanisms remains limited. In this article, we will review recent advances in the field of ultrafast photodynamics (light induced molecular processes occurring within femtoseconds, fs, 10-15 s to picoseconds, ps, 10-12 s) of sunscreens. We follow a bottom-up approach to common sunscreen active ingredients, analysing any emerging trends from the current literature on the subject. Moreover, we will identify the main questions that remain unanswered, pinpoint some of the main challenges and finally comment on the outlook of this exciting field of research.

Photolysis study of octyl p-methoxycinnamate loaded microemulsion by molecular fluorescence and chemometric approach

Octyl p-methoxycinnamate (OMC) is one of the most widely used sunscreen agents. However, the efficiency of OMC as UV filter over time is affected due to the formation of the cis-isomer which presents a markedly lower extinction coefficient (ε_cis=12,600L mol^-1cm^-1 at 291nm) than the original trans-isomer (ε_trans=24,000L mol^-1cm^-1 at 310nm). In this work, a novel carrier for OMC based on an oil-in-water microemulsion is proposed in order to improve the photostability of this sunscreen. The formulation was composed of 29.2% (w/w) of a 3:1 mixture of ethanol (co-surfactant) and decaethylene glycol mono-dodecyl ether (surfactant), 1.5% (w/w) of oleic acid (oil phase) and 69.2% (w/w) of water. This microemulsion was prepared in a simple way, under moderate stirring at 25°C and using acceptable, biocompatible and accessible materials for topical use. OMC was incorporated in the vehicle at a final concentration of 5.0% (w/w), taking into account the maximum permitted levels established by international norms. Then, a photolysis study of the loaded formulation was performed using a continuous flow system. The direct photolysis was monitored over time by molecular fluorescence. The recorded spectra data between 370 y 490nm were analyzed by multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares algorithm. The kinetic rate constants corresponding to the photolysis of the trans-OMC were calculated from the concentration profiles, resulting in 0.0049s^-1 for the trans-OMC loaded microemulsion and 0.0131s^-1 for the trans-OMC in aqueous media. These results demonstrate a higher photostability of the trans-OMC when loaded in the proposed vehicle with respect to the free trans-OMC in aqueous media.

Non-Euclidean phasor analysis for quantification of oxidative stress in ex vivo human skin exposed to sun filters using fluorescence lifetime imaging microscopy

Chemical sun filters are commonly used as active ingredients in sunscreens due to their efficient absorption of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Yet, it is known that these compounds can photochemically react with UV light and generate reactive oxygen species and oxidative stress in vitro, though this has yet to be validated in vivo. One label-free approach to probe oxidative stress is to measure and compare the relative endogenous fluorescence generated by cellular coenzymes nicotinamide adenine dinucleotides and flavin adenine dinucleotides. However, chemical sun filters are fluorescent, with emissive properties that contaminate endogenous fluorescent signals. To accurately distinguish the source of fluorescence in ex vivo skin samples treated with chemical sun filters, fluorescence lifetime imaging microscopy data were processed on a pixel-by-pixel basis using a non-Euclidean separation algorithm based on Mahalanobis distance and validated on simulated data. Applying this method, ex vivo samples exhibited a small oxidative shift when exposed to sun filters alone, though this shift was much smaller than that imparted by UV irradiation. Given the need for investigative tools to further study the clinical impact of chemical sun filters in patients, the reported methodology may be applied to visualize chemical sun filters and measure oxidative stress in patients' skin.

Light-sensitive drugs in topical formulations: stability indicating methods and photostabilization strategies

Photostability tests applied on commercial specialties for topical use have demonstrated a greater vulnerability of several drugs, due to greater exposure to light than other pharmaceutical forms. Photodegradation of a drug can considerably modify its pharmacokinetic behavior by varying the therapeutic index. The evaluation of the degradation profile of a drug, according to the ICH rules, is of primary importance in developing an appropriate topical formulation. Advanced strategies have been proposed to increase the protection from the light of the photolabile drugs. Supramolecular systems have been investigated to improve both pharmacokinetic profile and photostability. In this review, the more recent stability-monitoring methods for the analysis of drugs in topical formulations are collected and the main approaches for the drug photostabilization are discussed.

Specialized Metabolites of the Lichen Vulpicida pinastri Act as Photoprotective Agents

The extreme resiliency of lichens to UV radiations makes them an interesting model to find new photoprotective agents acting as UV-blockers and antioxidant. In this research, using a new in vitro method designed to overcome the shortage of material associated to many studies dealing with natural products, we show that the three major compounds isolated from the lichen Vulpicida pinastri, vulpinic acid, pinastric acid and usnic acid, were UV blocker agents. Antioxidant assays evidenced superoxide anion scavenging activity. Combination of the most promising compounds against UVB and UVB radiations, usnic acid, vulpinic acid and pinastric acid, increased the photoprotective activity. At the same time, they were found not cytotoxic on keratinocyte cell lines and photostable in the UVA and UVB ranges. Thus, lichens represent an attractive source to find good candidate ingredients as photoprotective agents. Additionally, the uncommon scalemic usnic acid mixture in this Vulpicida species was proven through electronic circular dichroism calculation.

Ultrafast Barrierless Photoisomerization and Strong Ultraviolet Absorption of Photoproducts in Plant Sunscreens

Sunscreens are aimed at protecting skin from solar ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. By utilizing femtosecond transient absorption spectroscopy and time-dependent density functional theory, we explain nature's selection of sinapoyl malate rather than sinapic acid as the plant sunscreen molecule. In physiological pH conditions, the two molecules are deprotonated, and their excited ππ* states are found to relax to the ground states in a few tens of picoseconds via a barrierless trans-cis photoisomerization. After the cis-photoproduct is formed, the efficacy of sinapic acid is greatly reduced. In contrast, the efficacy of sinapoyl malate is affected only slightly because the cis-product still absorbs UV light strongly. In addition, protonated sinapic acid is found to be a good potential sunscreen molecule.

Photodynamics of oxybenzone sunscreen: Nonadiabatic dynamics simulations

Herein we have used combined static electronic structure calculations and "on-the-fly" global-switching trajectory surface-hopping dynamics simulations to explore the photochemical mechanism of oxybenzone sunscreen. We have first employed the multi-configurational CASSCF method to optimize minima, conical intersections, and minimum-energy reaction paths related to excited-state intramolecular proton transfer (ESIPT) and excited-state decays in the (1)ππ(∗), (1)nπ(∗), and S0 states (energies are refined at the higher MS-CASPT2 level). According to the mapped potential energy profiles, we have identified two ultrafast excited-state deactivation pathways for the initially populated (1)ππ(∗) system. The first is the diabatic ESIPT process along the (1)ππ(∗) potential energy profile. The generated (1)ππ(∗) keto species then decays to the S0 state via the keto (1)ππ(∗)/gs conical intersection. The second is internal conversion to the dark (1)nπ(∗) state near the (1)ππ(∗) /(1)nπ(∗) crossing point in the course of the diabatic (1)ππ(∗) ESIPT process. Our following dynamics simulations have shown that the ESIPT and (1)ππ(∗) → S0 internal conversion times are 104 and 286 fs, respectively. Finally, our present work demonstrates that in addition to the ESIPT process and the (1)ππ(∗) → S0 internal conversion in the keto region, the (1)ππ(∗) → (1)nπ(∗) internal conversion in the enol region plays as well an important role for the excited-state relaxation dynamics of oxybenzone.

The Effects of UV Light on the Chemical and Mechanical Properties of a Transparent Epoxy-Diamine System in the Presence of an Organic UV Absorber

Despite several excellent properties including low shrinkage, good chemical resistance, curable at low temperatures and the absence of byproducts or volatiles, epoxy resins are susceptible to ultra violet (UV) damage and their durability is reduced substantially when exposed to outdoor environments. To overcome this drawback, UV absorbers have been usually used to decrease the rate of UV degradation. In this present study, the effects of UV light on the chemical, mechanical and physical properties of cured epoxy structure, as well as the effect of an organic UV absorber, Tinuvin 1130, on the epoxy properties were investigated. Chemical changes in a cured epoxy system as a result of the presence and absence of Tinuvin 1130 were determined using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) analyses. The effect of Tinuvin 1130 on the surface morphology of the epoxy systems was also investigated by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) imaging. Additionally, the glass transition temperatures (T_g) before and during UV radiation were measured. After an 800 h UV radiation, mechanical test results revealed that the lack of the UV absorber can lead to a ~30% reduction in tensile strength. However, in the presence of Tinuvin 1130, the tensile strength was reduced only by ~11%. It was hypothesized that the use of Tinuvin 1130, as an organic UV absorber in the epoxy-amine system, could decrease the undesirable effects, arising from exposure to UV light.

Degradation of triclosan in the presence of p-aminobenzoic acid under simulated sunlight irradiation

This study aimed to investigate the degradation of triclosan (TCS) in the presence of p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) under simulated sunlight irradiation (λ ≥ 290 nm). The effect of PABA concentration, pH, dissolved organic matter (DOM), and DOM-hydrolytic Fe(III) species complexes on the photodegradation of TCS in the presence of PABA (TCS_-PABA) was also studied. The photolysis of TCS_-PABA obeyed pseudo-first-order kinetics well, and the degradation of TCS_-PABA enhanced with increasing solution pH (from 3.0 to 11.0). The presence of PABA inhibited the degradation of TCS_-PABA, and the weakest inhibitory effect was observed while the concentration of PABA was 5 mg L^-1. The addition of DOM (Suwannee River fulvic acid standard I [SRFA], Suwannee River HA standard II [SRHA], and Suwannee River natural organic matter [SRNOM]) showed different inhibition effects on TCS_-PABA degradation. However, higher Fe(III) concentration at the DOM concentration of 5 mg L^-1 could favor the formation of DOM-hydrolytic Fe(III) species complexes, further accelerating the degradation of TCS_-PABA. In comparison with deionized water (DI water), TCS_-PABA could be better photodegraded in river water nearby the effluent of a wastewater treatment plant. This study provides useful information for understanding the natural behavior of TCS in the presence of other organic contaminants.

Photophysical properties of hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate (Uvinul A Plus), a UV-A absorber

DHHB (photostable UV-A absorber) may act as a triplet energy donor for OMC (the most widely used UV-B absorber) because the T₁energy of DHHB is higher than that of OMC.

Phyllosphere Methylobacterium bacteria contain UVA-absorbing compounds

Microbes inhabiting the phyllosphere encounter harmful ultraviolet rays, and must develop adaptive strategies against this irradiation. In this study, we screened bacterial isolates originating from the phyllosphere of various plants which harbored absorbers of ultraviolet A (UVA), a wavelength range which is recognized as harmful to human skin. Of the 200 phyllosphere bacterial isolates we screened, methanol extracts from bacterial cells of seventeen isolates absorbed wavelengths in the range of 315-400nm. All of the UVA-absorbing strains belonged to Methylobacterium species based on 16S ribosomal RNA gene sequences, suggesting that cells of this bacterial genus contain specific UVA-absorbing compounds. When cells of a representative Methylobacterium strain were extracted using various solvents, UVA absorption was observed in the extracts obtained using several aqueous solvents, indicating that the UVA-absorbing compounds were highly polar. A compound was purified using solid columns and HPLC separation, and comparative analysis revealed that the absorption strength and spectrum of the compound were similar to those of the known UVA filter, avobenzone. The compound was also verified to be stable under UVA exposure for at least 480min. Based on these results, the UVA-absorbing compound harbored by Methylobacterium has potential to be used as a novel sunscreen ingredient.

Biobased Nanoparticles for Broadband UV Protection with Photostabilized UV Filters

Sunscreens rely on multiple compounds to provide effective and safe protection against UV radiation. UV filters in sunscreens, in particular, provide broadband UV protection but are heavily linked to adverse health effects due to the generation of carcinogenic skin-damaging reactive oxygen species (ROS) upon solar irradiation. Herein, we demonstrate significant reduction in the ROS concentration by encapsulating an antioxidant photostabilizer with multiple UV filters into biobased ethyl cellulose nanoparticles. The developed nanoparticles display complete broadband UV protection and can form transparent and flexible films. This system therefore shows significant potential toward effective and safe nanoparticle-based UV protective coatings.

A Perspective on the Ultrafast Photochemistry of Solution-Phase Sunscreen Molecules

Sunscreens are one of the most common ways of providing on-demand additional photoprotection to the skin. Ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy has recently proven to be an invaluable tool in understanding how the components of commercial sunscreen products display efficient photoprotection. Important examples of how this technique has unravelled the photodynamics of common components are given in this Perspective, and some of the remaining unanswered questions are discussed.

Photophysics of sunscreen molecules in the gas phase: a stepwise approach towards understanding and developing next-generation sunscreens

The relationship between exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and skin cancer urges the need for extra photoprotection, which is presently provided by widespread commercially available sunscreen lotions. Apart from having a large absorption cross section in the UVA and UVB regions of the electromagnetic spectrum, the chemical absorbers in these photoprotective products should also be able to dissipate the excess energy in a safe way, i.e. without releasing photoproducts or inducing any further, harmful, photochemistry. While sunscreens are tested for both their photoprotective capability and dermatological compatibility, phenomena occurring at the molecular level upon absorption of UV radiation are largely overlooked. To date, there is only a limited amount of information regarding the photochemistry and photophysics of these sunscreen molecules. However, a thorough understanding of the intrinsic mechanisms by which popular sunscreen molecular constituents dissipate excess energy has the potential to aid in the design of more efficient, safer sunscreens. In this review, we explore the potential of using gas-phase frequency- and time-resolved spectroscopies in an effort to better understand the photoinduced excited-state dynamics, or photodynamics, of sunscreen molecules. Complementary computational studies are also briefly discussed. Finally, the future outlook of expanding these gas-phase studies into the solution phase is considered.

Evaporation of Particle-Stabilized Emulsion Sunscreen Films

We recently showed (Binks et al., ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces, 2016, DOI: 10.1021/acsami.6b02696) how evaporation of sunscreen films consisting of solutions of molecular UV filters leads to loss of UV light absorption and derived sun protection factor (SPF). In the present work, we investigate evaporation-induced effects for sunscreen films consisting of particle-stabilized emulsions containing a dissolved UV filter. The emulsions contained either droplets of propylene glycol (PG) in squalane (SQ), droplets of SQ in PG or droplets of decane in PG. In these different emulsion types, the SQ is involatile and shows no evaporation, the PG is volatile and evaporates relatively slowly, whereas the decane is relatively very volatile and evaporates quickly. We have measured the film mass and area, optical micrographs of the film structure, and the UV absorbance spectra during evaporation. For emulsion films containing the involatile SQ, evaporation of the PG causes collapse of the emulsion structure with some loss of specular UV absorbance due to light scattering. However, for these emulsions with droplets much larger than the wavelength of light, the light is scattered only at small forward angles so does not contribute to the diffuse absorbance and the film SPF. The UV filter remains soluble throughout the evaporation and thus the UV absorption by the filter and the SPF remain approximately constant. Both PG-in-SQ and SQ-in-PG films behave similarly and do not show area shrinkage by dewetting. In contrast, the decane-in-PG film shows rapid evaporative loss of the decane, followed by slower loss of the PG resulting in precipitation of the UV filter and film area shrinkage by dewetting which cause the UV absorbance and derived SPF to decrease. Measured UV spectra during evaporation are in reasonable agreement with spectra calculated using models discussed here.

Mechanistic Photochemistry of Methyl-4-hydroxycinnamate Chromophore and Its One-Water Complexes: Insights from MS-CASPT2 Study

Herein we computationally studied the excited-state properties and decay dynamics of methyl-4-hydroxycinnamate (OMpCA) in the lowest three electronic states, that is, (1)ππ*, (1)nπ*, and S0 using combined MS-CASPT2 and CASSCF electronic structure methods. We found that one-water hydration can significantly stabilize and destabilize the vertical excitation energies of the spectroscopically bright (1)ππ* and dark (1)nπ* excited singlet states, respectively; in contrast, it has a much smaller effect on the (1)ππ* and (1)nπ* adiabatic excitation energies. Mechanistically, we located two (1)ππ* excited-state relaxation channels. One is the internal conversion to the dark (1)nπ* state, and the other is the (1)ππ* photoisomerization that eventually leads the system to a (1)ππ*/S0 conical intersection region, near which the radiationless internal conversion to the S0 state occurs. These two (1)ππ* relaxation pathways play distinct roles in OMpCA and its two one-water complexes (OMpCA-W1 and OMpCA-W2). In OMpCA, the predominant (1)ππ* decay route is the state-switching to the dark (1)nπ* state, while in one-water complexes, the importance of the (1)ππ* photoisomerization is significantly enhanced because the internal conversion to the (1)nπ* state is heavily suppressed due to the one-water hydration.

Occurrence of pharmaceuticals and UV filters in swimming pools and spas

The occurrence of 32 pharmaceuticals and 14 UV filters in swimming pools and spas was studied. Fifty-one water samples were collected from 17 pools located in sport centres and hotels in Catalonia, Spain. The samples were analysed by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry. The pharmaceuticals atenolol, carbamazepine, hydrochlorothiazide, metronidazole, ofloxacin, sulfamethoxazole, acetaminophen, ibuprofen, ketoprofen and phenazone were measured in water samples at concentrations higher than their limit of quantification (LOQ). The highest concentration of any individual pharmaceutical was measured for the diuretic hydrochlorothiazide (904 ng/L). The most frequently detected pharmaceutical was carbamazepine, as it was observed in more than half of all the water samples measured (53 %, 27/51). The UV filters at concentrations higher than LOQ in water samples were BP1, BP2, BP3, BP8, THB, 4DHB, 4MBC, OD-PABA, 1HBT, MeBT and DMeBT. The highest concentration of UV filter observed was 4MBC (69.3 ng/L) while the most frequent UV filters in the samples were 1HBT (59 %, 30/51). The results also showed that pharmaceuticals and UV filters were most frequently found in spas. Finally, from a water treatment technology perspective, the lowest occurrence of pharmaceuticals was in the pools applying sand filters followed by disinfection by sodium hypochlorite, while the lowest occurrence of UV filters was in the pools applying coagulation, sand filtration, UV and salt electrolysis.

Evaporation of Sunscreen Films: How the UV Protection Properties Change

We have investigated the evaporation of thin sunscreen films and how the light absorption and the derived sun protection factor (SPF) change. For films consisting of solutions of common UV filters in propylene glycol (PG) as solvent, we show how evaporation generally causes three effects. First, the film area can decrease by dewetting leading to a transient increase in the average film thickness. Second, the film thins by evaporative loss of the solvent. Third, precipitation of the UV filter occurs when solvent loss causes the solubility limit to be reached. These evaporation-induced changes cause the UV absorbance of the film to decrease with resultant loss of SPF over the time scale of the evaporation. We derive an approximate model which accounts semiquantitatively for the variation of SPF with evaporation. Experimental results for solutions of different UV filters on quartz, different skin mimicking substrates, films with added nanoparticles, films with an added polymer and films with fast-evaporating decane as solvent (instead of slow evaporating PG) are discussed and compared with model calculations. Addition of either nanoparticles or polymer suppress film dewetting. Overall, it is hoped that the understanding gained about the mechanisms whereby film evaporation affects the SPF will provide useful guidance for the formulation of more effective sunscreens.