Skin aging and photoaging: an overview

Evaluation of Natural Bioactive-Derived Punicalagin Niosomes in Skin-Aging Processes Accelerated by Oxidant and Ultraviolet Radiation

INTRODUCTION

Skin aging is a normal process that might be accelerated or delayed by altering the balance between antioxidants and free radicals due to increase in the exposure to reactive oxygen species (ROS) into skin cells via UV radiation. Antioxidants can neutralize the harmful effects of ROS, and secondary plant metabolites might help protect against UV radiation.

METHODS

In this study, punicalagin was extracted from pomegranate, and concentrations of total polyphenolics and flavonoids were determined, and antioxidant activities were measured. Punicalagin was loaded onto niosomes, and its morphology and release were studied. An in vitro study was performed on human fibroblast cell line HFB4 cells with aging induced by H₂O₂ and UV radiation. Cell cycle arrest was studied, and different genes (MMP3, Col1A1, Timp3, and TERT) involved in the skin aging process were selected to measure punicalagin's effect.

RESULTS

Punicalagin succeeded in reducing the growth arrest of HFB4 cells, activated production of the Col1A1 and Timp3 genes, maintained collagen level, and lowered MMP3. Punicalagin increased human TERT concentration in skin cells.

DISCUSSION

Punicalagin is promising as a natural antioxidant to protect human skin from aging.

Walnut protein hydrolysates, rich with peptide fragments of WSREEQEREE and ADIYTEEAGR ameliorate UV-induced photoaging through inhibition of the NF-κB/MMP-1 signaling pathway in female rats

Skin photoaging is a complicated pathological process, and the imbalance of inflammatory regulation is associated highly with photoaging progression. Previously, prepared walnut protein hydrolysates (WPH), rich with peptide fragments of WSREEQEREE and ADIYTEEAGR demonstrated desirable photoprotection. However, it remains unclear if the photoprotection is mediated by the targeted inhibition of the NF-κB signaling pathway. Herein, we examined the regulation of WPH on inflammatory cytokine expression, and elucidated the modulation of the NF-κB/MMP-1 signaling pathway by WPH in a photoaging SD rat model. WPH significantly reduced the expression level of inflammatory cytokines IL-1β and IL-6, but significantly increased the level of IL-2 (all P < 0.05). Furthermore, WPH dramatically inhibited the activation of the NF-κB signaling pathway by mitigating the phosphorylation of IκB and p-65 proteins in a dose-dependent manner. The histopathological results indicated that WPH predominately attenuated epidermal hyperplasia, reduced the inflammatory filtration, and promoted collagen deposition in the photoaging skin tissue. Furthermore, WPH significantly stimulated the expression of TGF-β and procollagen type I, and inhibited the MMP-1 activities (all P < 0.05). Overall, the underlying mechanism of WPH ameliorating skin photoaging may be attributed to the synergistic modulation via reversing the inflammatory imbalance, suppressing the activation of the NF-κB signal pathway, stimulating procollagen type I synthesis, and inhibiting MMP-1 activities. According to these results, it can be concluded that WPH has the potential as an anti-photoaging agent in functional foods.

Efficacy and safety of a new hyaluronic acid filler for nasolabial folds: A 52-week, multicenter, randomized, evaluator/subject-blind, split-face study

BACKGROUND

Hyaluronic acid fillers are known to be effective for correction of nasolabial folds. Recently, a novel biphasic hyaluronic acid filler incorporating lidocaine, DIVAVIVA medium has been introduced.

OBJECTIVES

We compared the efficacy and safety between DIVAVIVA medium and Restylane Perlane Lidocaine for moderate to severe nasolabial folds.

METHODS

This was a multicenter, randomized, evaluator/subject-blind, active-controlled, split-face study. A study 1 evaluated the efficacy and safety until 24 weeks. Extension study, study 2, included subjects who wanted to enroll and evaluated the efficacy and safety until 52 weeks. The Wrinkle Severity Rating Scale (WSRS) score, Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale, and Visual Analogue Scale measuring pain were evaluated. All adverse events were monitored.

RESULTS

The mean change of WSRS at week 24 was -0.61 ± 0.54 in DIVAVIVA medium group and -0.59 ± 0.49 in Restylane Perlane Lidocaine group. The difference between two groups was 0.08, which was lower than noninferior limit. In study 2, the mean change of WSRS score at week 52 from baseline was -0.01 ± 0.62 in DIVAVIVA group, 0.06 ± 0.57 in Restylane Perlane Lidocaine group. The primary and secondary efficacy outcomes were also achieved in study 1 and 2. There was no significant difference in the incidence of adverse events between the two groups.

CONCLUSION

DIVAVIVA medium has comparable efficacy and safety with Restylane Perlane Lidocaine for correction of moderate to severe nasolabial folds.

How cosmetic tightening products modulate the biomechanics and morphology of human skin

The active and passive mechanical behavior of a cosmetic tightening product for skin anti-aging is investigated based on a wide range of in vivo and in vitro measurements. The experimental data are used to inform a numerical model of the attained cosmetic effect, which is then implemented in a commercial finite-element framework and used to analyze the mechanisms that regulate the biomechanical interaction between the native tissue and the tightening film. Such a film reduces wrinkles and enhances skin consistency by increasing its stiffness by 48-107% and reducing inelastic, non-recoverable deformations (-47%). The substrate deformability influences both the extent of tightening and the reduction of wrinkle amplitude. The present findings allow, for the first time, to rationalize the mechanisms of action of cosmetic products with a tightening action and provide quantitative evidence for further optimization of this fascinating class of biomaterials.

An Anthocyanin-Enriched Extract from Vaccinium uliginosum Improves Signs of Skin Aging in UVB-Induced Photodamage

Accumulating evidence indicates that botanical extracts affect skin biophysical parameters, such as hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin index, erythema index, and wrinkle development. Vaccinium uliginosum extract contains a high level of anthocyanins as antioxidant and is ideal for use in dietary skin care products. Here, we assessed the photoprotective effects of dietary V. uliginosum extract in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated hairless mice. Quantitative analysis of anthocyanin composition in the ethanol-extracted V. uliginosum sample was performed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Skin parameter analysis and hematoxylin and eosin (H&E) staining were conducted on skin samples from UVB-irradiated hairless mice to evaluate the effects of V. uliginosum extract on skin conditions. In addition, skin mRNA and protein expression were assessed to characterize the molecular mechanisms underlying the effects of the anthocyanin-enriched extract on skin appearance and condition. Administration of the ethanol-extracted V. uliginosum sample caused significant changes in skin water-holding capacity, TEWL, wrinkle-related parameters, and epidermal thickness in UVB-irradiated hairless mice. In addition, oral administration of V. uliginosum attenuated the gene expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) and increased levels of tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP) and antioxidant-related genes. Further, V. uliginosum administration downregulated inflammatory cytokine levels and UVB-induced phosphorylation of extracellular signaling regulated kinase (ERK), as well as Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) and p38 protein levels. Oral administration of anthocyanin-enriched V. uliginosum extract can improve the appearance and condition of the skin following UV irradiation.

Andrographis Paniculata and Its Bioactive Diterpenoids Protect Dermal Fibroblasts Against Inflammation and Oxidative Stress

Andrographis paniculata (Burm.f.) has long been used in ayurvedic medicine through its anti-inflammatory properties. However, its protective effect of skin aging has not been studied in vitro. This study aimed to investigate the anti-aging effects of methanolic extract (ME), andrographolide (ANDRO), neoandrographolide (NEO), 14-deoxyandrographolide (14DAP) and 14-deoxy-11,12-didehydroandrographolide (14DAP11-12) on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa) under pro-oxidant or pro-inflammatory condition. The in vitro anti-aging capacity of ME, ANDRO, NEO, 14DAP, and 14DAP11-12 (1, 2.5 and 5 µg/mL) was performed in HDFa. Oxidative stress and inflammation were induced by hydrogen peroxide and lipopolysaccharide/TNF-α, respectively. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was measured by the fluorescence of DCF-DA probe and cytokines were quantified by ELISA (IL6 and IL8) or RTqPCR (TNF-α). Procollagen type I production was determined by an ELISA. Our results showed a decrease in ROS production with ME and 14DAP at 5 µg/mL and 1 µg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, IL-6 production and TNF-α expression decreased under ANDRO and ME at 5 µg/mL. Our data indicated that ME and 14DAP protect from oxidative stress. Additionally, ME and ANDRO decreased an inflammation marker, IL-6. This suggests their potential natural treatment against skin damage. Hence, their applications could be of interest in cosmetics for preventing skin ageing.

Biomarkers, oxidative stress and autophagy in skin aging

Aging is a major cause of many degenerative diseases. The most intuitive consequence of aging is mainly manifested on the skin, resulting in cumulative changes in skin structure, function and appearance, such as increased wrinkles, laxity, elastosis, telangiectasia, and aberrant pigmentation of the skin. Unlike other organs of the human body, skin is not only inevitably affected by the intrinsic aging process, but also affected by various extrinsic environmental factors to accelerate aging, especially ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Skin aging is a highly complex and not fully understood process, and the lack of universal biomarkers for the definitive detection and evaluation of aging is also a major research challenge. Oxidative stress induced by the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) can lead to lipid, protein, nucleic acid and organelle damage, thus leading to the occurrence of cellular senescence, which is one of the core mechanisms mediating skin aging. Autophagy can maintain cellular homeostasis when faced with different stress conditions and is one of the survival mechanisms of cell resistance to intrinsic and extrinsic stress. Autophagy and aging have many features in common and may be associated with skin aging mediated by different factors. Here, we summarize the changes and biomarkers of skin aging, and discuss the effects of oxidative stress and autophagy on skin aging.

The Antiaging Activity of Ergothioneine in UVA-Irradiated Human Dermal Fibroblasts via the Inhibition of the AP-1 Pathway and the Activation of Nrf2-Mediated Antioxidant Genes

UVA irradiation induced ROS-mediated photo damage to the human skin leading to coarseness, wrinkling, pigmentation, and cutaneous malignancies. We investigated the dermatoprotective efficacies of submicromolar concentrations of ergothioneine (EGT, 0.125-0.5 μM), which occurs naturally as a sulfur-containing amino acid, in the mechanisms in human skin fibroblast (HSF) cells. UVA-induced AP-1 (c-Fos and c-Jun) translocation was found to be inhibited by EGT treatments with the parallel inhibition of the collagenolytic matrix metalloproteinase- (MMP-) 1 activation and type I procollagen degradation. Moreover, EGT mitigated UVA-induced ROS generation. An increase in the amount of antioxidant genes (HO-1, NQO-1, and γ-GCLC) from EGT and were associated with upregulated Nrf2 expressions in a dose-dependent or time-dependent manner. We confirmed this from Nrf2 translocation and increased nuclear ARE promoter activity that underlie EGT dermatoprotective activities. Also, glutathione (GSH) levels (from γ-GCLC) were significantly increased. Moreover, we showed that mediated by ERK, JNK, and PKC, signaling cascades mediate Nrf2 translocation. We confirmed this phenomenon by the suppressed nuclear Nrf2 activation in cells that were treated with respective inhibitors (PD98059, SP600125, and GF109203X). However, antioxidant protein expressions were impaired in Nrf2 knockdown cells to confirm that ARE/Nrf2 pathways and the inhibition of AP-1 had significant roles in EGT-mediated protective effects. We can conclude that ergothioneine ameliorated UVA-induced skin aging and is a useful food supplement for skin care products.

Distinct Habits Of Sun Exposures Lead To Different Impacts On Some Facial Signs Of Chinese Men Of Different Ages

OBJECTIVE

To clinically evaluate the impacts of sun exposures on some facial signs of differently aged Chinese men with a distinct behavior vis à vis sun exposures.

METHODS

Two comparable cohorts of Chinese men (aged 18-75 years old), living in two cities (Shanghai, Hong Kong) were created according to their usual behavior towards sun exposure and through their variable use(s) of a photo-protective product, i.e. non-sun-phobic (N = 127) and sun-phobic (N = 134). Standard photographs (full-face and 45° lateral) allowed to focus on 13 facial signs that were further graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using a referential Skin Aging Atlas. Absolute differences in the scores of each sign were used (non-sun-phobic minus sun-phobic), by age-classes, to better ascertain the impact of sun exposures and a photo-protecting product, when used.

RESULTS

Most facial signs, particularly wrinkles and skin texture, differentiated the two cohorts. Some others showed some erratic changes with age, albeit more pronounced at older ages. In contrast with previous results obtained in Chinese women, the changes observed in men were not only of a lessened severity but were undetected at early ages (<30 years old). Overall, these different behaviors with regard to sun exposures led to significant differences in the facial signs of Chinese men. The latter can be illustrated by two virtual morphings that combine the impacts of both intrinsic and extrinsic aging processes.

CONCLUSION

The present work illustrates, for the first time, some specificities of the impacts of sun exposures on the facial skin of Chinese men, more expressed at older ages, inversely to those observed in Chinese women, occurring at younger ages.

Protective effect of sucupira oil nanoemulsion against oxidative stress in UVA-irradiated HaCaT cells

OBJECTIVES

Bioactive molecules derived from natural products combine the ability to absorb UV light and act as antioxidants. We developed an oil-based sucupira (native species of the Brazilian cerrado) nanoemulsion (NE) using a high-energy emulsification method and assessed its effectiveness in vitro.

METHODS

An easily scalable high-pressure homogenization method was used to prepare the formulation. NE droplets mean diameter, pH, stability, conductivity and morphology were analysed. Formulation bioactivity was assessed using HaCaT cells.

KEY FINDINGS

The formulation presented suitable pH and size for topic administration and was stable for over 90 days upon storage at 4, 25 and 45°C. The NE showed protective effect against oxidative stress and reduced levels of UVA-induced pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and IL-8.

CONCLUSIONS

A novel, stable and easily prepared formulation was obtained for encapsulation of sucupira oil. The protective effect of the formulation by cytokine inhibition in the early stage of the inflammatory process was shown in vitro. Combined with the antioxidant effect by inhibition of reactive oxygen species, the use of sucupira oil NE for prevention and treatment of UVA-induced stress could contribute to decrease the effects of UV radiation on skin ageing.

Atopic dermatitis in the elderly: a review of clinical and pathophysiological hallmarks

BACKGROUND

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a multifactorial and complex disease, characterized by an impaired skin barrier function and abnormal immune response. Many elderly patients present with pruritus and xerosis to dermatology, allergy and primary care clinics, and there is a lack of information available to clinicians regarding the proper diagnosis and management of these patients. Although the elderly are described as having a distinct presentation of AD and important comorbidities, most investigations and clinical care guidelines pertaining to AD do not include patients aged 60 years and older as a separate group from younger adults.

OBJECTIVES

To summarize current information on pathophysiology, diagnosis and management of AD in the elderly population and identify areas of insufficient information to be explored in future investigations.

METHODS

We carried out a systematic review of published literature, which assessed changes in the skin barrier and immune function with ageing and current information available for physicians to use in the diagnosis and treatment of AD in elderly patients.

RESULTS

Many age-related changes overlap with key hallmarks observed in AD, most notably a decline in skin barrier function, dysregulation of the innate immune system, and skewing of adaptive immunity to a type-2 T helper cell response, in addition to increased Staphylococcus aureus infection.

CONCLUSIONS

While general physiological alterations with ageing overlap with key features of AD, a research gap exists regarding specific ageing-related changes in AD disease development. More knowledge about AD in the elderly is needed to establish firm diagnostic and treatment methodologies. What's already known about this topic? Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common inflammatory skin disease that causes significant burden worldwide. Recently, elderly patients have been considered a subgroup of patients with distinct AD manifestation. Limited studies have characterized the clinical presentation and role of IgE-mediated allergy in elderly patients with AD. What does this study add? This review offers a summary of age-related skin and immune alterations that correspond to pathogenic changes noted in patients with AD. The role of itch, environmental factors and skin microbiota in AD disease presentation in ageing patients is explored.

Characterizing Eckol as a Therapeutic Aid: A Systematic Review

The marine biosphere is a treasure trove of natural bioactive secondary metabolites and the richest source of structurally diverse and unique compounds, such as phlorotannins and halo-compounds, with high therapeutic potential. Eckol is a precursor compound representing the dibenzo-1,4-dioxin class of phlorotannins abundant in the Ecklonia species, which are marine brown algae having a ubiquitous distribution. In search of compounds having biological activity from macro algae during the past three decades, this particular compound has attracted massive attention for its multiple therapeutic properties and health benefits. Although several varieties of marine algae, seaweed, and phlorotannins have already been well scrutinized, eckol deserves a place of its own because of the therapeutic properties it possesses. The relevant information about this particular compound has not yet been collected in one place; therefore, this review focuses on its biological applications, including its potential health benefits and possible applications to restrain diseases leading to good health. The facts compiled in this review could contribute to novel insights into the functions of eckol and potentially enable its use in different uninvestigated fields.

Potentially beneficial effects of rhamnose on skin ageing: an in vitro and in vivo study

OBJECTIVE

Recent findings showed that skin ageing preferentially affects human papillary dermal fibroblasts suggesting that the papillary dermis represents a critical zone altered by skin ageing. Based on these findings, we investigated the potential anti-ageing effect of rhamnose.

METHODS

We investigated the potential anti-ageing effect of rhamnose using in vitro reconstructed skin containing fibroblasts obtained either from young or old donors, and in vivo clinical investigation.

RESULTS

We detected positive effects of rhamnose in both epidermal and dermal compartments of in vitro reconstructed skin. Moreover, we were able to show that such in vitro findings were also obtained in vivo including an effect on collagen IV and procollagen I production.

CONCLUSION

We provide evidence that rhamnose has a potentially beneficial effect on papillary dermis and dermal-epidermal junction, both of the areas which are affected by skin ageing.

Oenanthe Javanica Extract Protects Mouse Skin from UVB Radiation via Attenuating Collagen Disruption and Inflammation

In recent years, the use of botanical agents to prevent skin damage from solar ultraviolet (UV) irradiation has received considerable attention. Oenanthe javanica is known to exert anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities. This study investigated photoprotective properties of an Oenanthe javanica extract (OJE) against UVB-induced skin damage in ICR mice. The extent of skin damage was evaluated in three groups: control mice with no UVB, UVB-exposed mice treated with vehicle (saline), and UVB-exposed mice treated with 1% extract. Photoprotective properties were assessed in the dorsal skin using hematoxylin and eosin staining, Masson trichrome staining, immunohistochemical staining, quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction, and western blotting to analyze the epidermal thickness, collagen expression, and mRNA and protein levels of type I collagen, type III collagen, and interstitial collagenases, including matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and MMP-3. In addition, tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α and cyclooxygenase (COX)-2 protein levels were also assessed. In the UVB-exposed mice treated with extract, UV-induced epidermal damage was significantly ameliorated. In this group, productions of collagen types I and III were increased, and expressions of MMP-1 and MMP-3 were decreased. In addition, TNF-α and COX-2 expressions were reduced. Based on these findings, we conclude that OJE displays photoprotective effects against UVB-induced collagen disruption and inflammation and suggest that Oenanthe javanica can be used as a natural product for the treatment of photodamaged skin.

A new procedure, free from human assessment that automatically grades some facial skin structural signs. Comparison with assessments by experts, using referential atlases of skin ageing

OBJECTIVE

To develop an automatic system that grades the severity of facial signs through 'selfies' pictures taken by women of different ages and ethnics.

METHODS

1140 women from three ethnics (African-American, Asian, Caucasian), of different ages (18-80 years old), took 'selfies' by high resolution smartphones cameras under different conditions of lighting or facial expressions. A dedicated software, was developed, based on a Convolutional Neural Network (CNN) that integrates training data from referential Skin Aging Atlases. The latter allows to an immediate quantification of the severity of nine facial signs according to the ethnicity declared by the subject. These automatic grading were confronted to those assessed by 12 trained experts and dermatologists either on 'selfies' pictures or in live conditions on a smaller cohort of women.

RESULTS

The system appears weakly influenced by lighting conditions or facial expressions (coefficients of variations ranging 10-13% for most signs) and leads to global agreements with experts' assessments, even showing a better reproducibility on some facial signs.

CONCLUSION

This automatic scoring system, still in development, seems offering a new quantitative approach in the quantified description of facial signs, independent from human vision, in many applications, being individual, cosmetic oriented or dermatological with regard to the follow-up of medical anti-ageing corrective strategies.

Inhibitory Effect of Lupeol on MMPs Expression using Aged Fibroblast through Repeated UVA Irradiation

In this study, the aged dermal fibroblast model was constructed by repeated irradiation with UV light and the effect of lupeol, a triterpenoid, on anti-aging was confirmed. SA-β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) stained aged cells increased by about 40% and expression of p-p53, p21, p16 and MMPs (MMP-1, -2, -3) increased in aged fibroblast. As an efficacy result, the treatment of lupeol on aged fibroblast induced by UVA repeated irradiation showed a dose-dependent reduction of SA-β-gal stained aged cells, the expression of p-p53, p21, p16 and inhibition of MMPs. Interestingly, lupeol increased dephosphorylation of p-ERK in repeated UV irradiated conditions. Additionally, lupeol compensated MMPs expression when p-ERK phosphorylation was inhibited by p-ERK inhibitor PD98059. Thus, these results showed that lupeol has a possible effect on MMPs expression using inhibition of the p-ERK pathway. Taken together, we confirmed that lupeol inhibits senescence through inhibiting MMP-1, -2, -3 as well as p-p53, p21 and p16 expression and SA-β-gal activity in repeated UVA-irradiated senescent FB models, therefore suggesting that lupeol may be useful as an anti-aging agent.

Perioral Rejuvenation: A Prospective, Quantitative Dynamic Three-Dimensional Analysis of a Dual Modality Treatment

BACKGROUND

The perioral region is the most dynamic anatomic area of the face and subject to complex and dramatic changes during aging. Successful treatment for perioral rejuvenation has yet to be identified, and prior studies have reported only subjective outcomes.

OBJECTIVES

The purpose of this study was to utilize our validated dynamic 3-dimensional imaging technology to determine whether conservative neuromodulation combined with hyaluronic acid filler volumization can decrease perioral strain and increase volume with significant patient satisfaction.

METHODS

An IRB-approved prospective study of a dual modality treatment for perioral rhytids was performed on females with perioral aging who had not had prior facial treatment within the past year. Eighteen (18) units of Dysport were injected into the upper and lower orbicularis oris and 1 cc of Restylane Silk was injected in volume-depleted perioral regions in each patient. Each patient underwent imaging with digital image correlation (DIC) and completed the FACE-Q survey prior to injection and at 14 days and 90 days postinjection.

RESULTS

Thirty-two female patients were recruited. A significant reduction in perioral strain was observed at both day 14 and day 90. This was concomitant with a significant increase in perioral volume at day 14 that at 90 days was significantly retained in the marionette lines. Further, there was a significant improvement in patient satisfaction with overall facial appearance at day 14 that was maintained at 90 days.

CONCLUSIONS

Conservative neuromodulation and hyaluronic acid filler volumization of the perioral region produces a significant reduction in strain correlating with high patient satisfaction, even at 90 days. This dual modality treatment is effective in rejuvenating the perioral region, and its future optimization will provide greater therapeutic options for this anatomically complex area.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE 4

Evaluating age-related changes of some facial signs among men of four different ethnic groups

BACKGROUND

The alterations of some facial characteristics, with age, in men of different ethnic groups are a scarcely studied topic.

OBJECTIVE

To illustrate and grade, among men of four different ethnic descents (Asians, African-Americans, Caucasians, Indians), aged 18-80 year, the changes in the severity of some facial signs occurring with age.

METHODS

Digital Photographs (full face, profile, 45°) of 1058 subjects were taken under standard conditions of lightning. These allowed us to zoom in on 15-20 different facial signs on all subjects. Their observations by 15 trained experts, under calibrated screens, allowed these signs to be graded, with the help of four referential skin Atlases, specific to the gender and ethnic groups studied.

RESULTS

Most facial signs show a rather regular increase with age, with different kinetics according to the ethnic group. The major changes, in all four ethnic groups, mostly concern skin structural alterations (wrinkles, neck sagging or texture). The changes in the severity of some wrinkles (forehead, inter-ocular…) may be viewed as ethnic signatures. The modifications in pigmentation disorders seem more closely linked to the constitutive skin pigmentation (photo-types), among which pigmentary spots are confirmed as a more specific Asian trait.

CONCLUSION

Men of four different ethnic origins present different and ethnic-related facial alterations with increasing age, of different amplitudes.

Polarization-resolved second-harmonic-generation imaging of dermal collagen fiber in prewrinkled and wrinkled skins of ultraviolet-B-exposed mouse

Skin wrinkling is a typical symptom of cutaneous photoaging; however, the skin wrinkling depends on not only the actual age but also exposure history to ultraviolet B (UVB) rays in individuals. Therefore, there is considerable need for its assessment technique in vivo in skin cosmetics and antiaging dermatology. Wrinkles always appear as linear grooves in the skin, and dermal collagen fibers play an important role to determine the morphology and mechanical properties of the skin. Therefore, an optical probe sensitive to dermal collagen fiber and its orientation will be useful. Polarization-resolved second-harmonic-generation (SHG) microscopy is a promising approach for in vivo evaluation of collagen fiber orientation because the efficiency of SHG light is sensitive to collagen fiber orientation when the incident light is linearly polarized. We investigate orientation change of dermal collagen fiber in prewrinkled and wrinkled skins of the UVB-exposed mouse model using polarization-resolved SHG microscopy. A polarization anisotropic image of the SHG light indicates that the change of collagen fiber orientation starts in the prewrinkled skin of UVB-exposed mice, then the wrinkle appears. Furthermore, the dominant direction of collagen fiber orientation in the prewrinkled skin is significantly parallel to the wrinkle direction in the wrinkled skin. This result implies that the change of collagen fiber orientation is a trigger of wrinkling in cutaneous photoaging.

Identification of chronological and photoageing-associated microRNAs in human skin

MicroRNAs are short non-coding RNAs that play key roles in regulating biological processes. In this study, we explored effects of chronological and photoageing on the miRNome of human skin. To this end, biopsies were collected from sun-exposed (outer arm, n = 45) and sun-protected (inner arm, n = 45) skin from fair-skinned (phototype II/III) healthy female volunteers of three age groups: young, 18-25 years, middle age, 40-50 years and aged, > 70 years. Strict inclusion criteria were used for photoageing scoring and for chronological ageing. Microarray analysis revealed that chronological ageing had minor effect on the human skin miRNome. In contrast, photoageing had a robust impact on miRNAs, and a set of miRNAs differentially expressed between sun-protected and sun-exposed skin of the young and aged groups was identified. Upregulation of miR-383, miR-145 and miR-34a and downregulation of miR-6879, miR-3648 and miR-663b were confirmed using qRT-PCR in sun-exposed skin compared with sun-protected skin. qRT-PCR analysis revealed that miR-383, miR-34a and miR-134 were differentially expressed in all three age groups both in chronological and photoageing, suggesting a synergetic effect of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing on their expression. In conclusion, our study identifies a unique miRNA signature which may contribute to skin ageing.

Exosomes Derived from Human Induced Pluripotent Stem Cells Ameliorate the Aging of Skin Fibroblasts

Stem cells and their paracrine factors have emerged as a resource for regenerative medicine. Many studies have shown the beneficial effects of paracrine factors secreted from adult stem cells, such as exosomes, on skin aging. However, to date, few reports have demonstrated the use of exosomes derived from human pluripotent stem cells for the treatment of skin aging. In this study, we collected exosomes from the conditioned medium of human induced pluripotent stem cells (iPSCs) and investigated the effect on aged human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). Cell proliferation and viability were determined by an MTT assay and cell migration capacity was shown by a scratch wound assay and a transwell migration assay. To induce photoaging and natural senescence, HDFs were irradiated by UVB (315 nm) and subcultured for over 30 passages, respectively. The expression level of certain mRNAs was evaluated by quantitative real-time PCR (qPCR). Senescence-associated-β-galactosidase (SA-β-Gal) activity was assessed as a marker of natural senescence. As a result, we found that exosomes derived from human iPSCs (iPSCs-Exo) stimulated the proliferation and migration of HDFs under normal conditions. Pretreatment with iPSCs-Exo inhibited the damages of HDFs and overexpression of matrix-degrading enzymes (MMP-1/3) caused by UVB irradiation. The iPSCs-Exo also increased the expression level of collagen type I in the photo-aged HDFs. In addition, we demonstrated that iPSCs-Exo significantly reduced the expression level of SA-β-Gal and MMP-1/3 and restored the collagen type I expression in senescent HDFs. Taken together, it is anticipated that these results suggest a therapeutic potential of iPSCs-Exo for the treatment of skin aging.

Anti-Inflammatory Effect of ETAS®50 by Inhibiting Nuclear Factor-κB p65 Nuclear Import in Ultraviolet-B-Irradiated Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation induces proinflammatory responses in skin cells, including dermal fibroblasts, accelerating premature skin aging (photoaging). ETAS 50, a standardized extract from the Asparagus officinalis stem, is a novel and unique functional food that suppresses proinflammatory responses of hydrogen peroxide-stimulated skin fibroblasts and interleukin- (IL-) 1β-stimulated hepatocytes. To elucidate its antiphotoaging potencies, we examined whether ETAS 50 treatment after UV-B irradiation attenuates proinflammatory responses of normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). UV-B-irradiated NHDFs showed reduced levels of the cytosolic inhibitor of nuclear factor-κB α (IκBα) protein and increased levels of nuclear p65 protein. The nuclear factor-κB nuclear translocation inhibitor JSH-23 abolished UV-B irradiation-induced IL-1β mRNA expression, indicating that p65 regulates transcriptional induction. ETAS 50 also markedly suppressed UV-B irradiation-induced increases in IL-1β mRNA levels. Immunofluorescence analysis revealed that ETAS 50 retained p65 in the cytosol after UV-B irradiation. Western blotting also showed that ETAS 50 suppressed the UV-B irradiation-induced increases in nuclear p65 protein. Moreover, ETAS 50 clearly suppressed UV-B irradiation-induced distribution of importin-α protein levels in the nucleus without recovering cytosolic IκBα protein levels. These results suggest that ETAS 50 exerts anti-inflammatory effects on UV-B-irradiated NHDFs by suppressing the nuclear import machinery of p65. Therefore, ETAS 50 may prevent photoaging by suppressing UV irradiation-induced proinflammatory responses of dermal fibroblasts.

Randomized, Patient/Evaluator-Blinded, Intraindividual Comparison Study to Evaluate the Efficacy and Safety of a Novel Hyaluronic Acid Dermal Filler in the Treatment of Nasolabial Folds

BACKGROUND

Comparative research on the characteristics of filler products is limited, especially in the preclinical analysis of hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers.

OBJECTIVE

This study was performed to compare the preclinical characteristics, clinical efficacy, and safety of a new HA filler, IDHF-001, with Restylane SubQ in the treatment of nasolabial folds (NLFs).

METHODS

Viscoelasticity and injection force were evaluated. Ninety-one subjects were enrolled in this randomized, patient/evaluator-blind, intraindividual clinical study. Each subject was randomized to receive injections of IDHF-001 or Restylane SubQ in their left or right NLF. At 4, 8, 16, 24, 36, and 48 weeks, all participants were evaluated through Wrinkle Severity Rating Scale (WSRS).

RESULTS

The IDHF-001 showed higher viscosity (1,271 Pa·s), lower elastic modulus (G'; 611 Pa), and lower injection force (8.89 N) than Restylane SubQ (464.6 Pa·s; 674.8 Pa; 19.14 N). No significant difference in WSRS was detected between IDHF-001 side and Restylane SubQ side at 24 weeks (mean improvement in WSRS from baseline at Week 24-IDHF-001: 1.85 ± 0.61, Restylane SubQ: 1.88 ± 0.61). The noninferiority was sustained until Week 48.

CONCLUSION

The novel HA filler IDHF-001 shows suitable characteristics and tolerability, widening the selection possibilities for clinicians and patients in the treatment of NLFs.

Nutraceuticals for Skin Care: A Comprehensive Review of Human Clinical Studies

The skin is the body’s largest organ, it participates in sensitivity and offers protection against microorganisms, chemicals and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Consequently, the skin may suffer alterations such as photo-ageing, immune dysfunction and inflammation which may significantly affect human health. Nutraceuticals represent a promising strategy for preventing, delaying, or minimising premature ageing of the skin and also to alleviate certain skin disorders. Among them, bioactive peptides and oligosaccharides, plant polyphenols, carotenoids, vitamins and polyunsaturated fatty acids are the most widely used ingredients. Supplementation with these products has shown evidence of having an effect on the signs of ageing and protection against UV radiation ageing in several human trials. In this review, the most relevant human studies on skin nutraceuticals are evaluated and the statistical resolution, biological relevance of their results, and, the trial protocols are discussed. In conclusion, quality and rigorousness of the trials must be improved to build credible scientific evidence for skin nutraceuticals and to establish a cause-effect relationship between the ingredients the beneficial effects for the skin.

Vascular diseases in the mature patient

Aging results in both anatomic and physiologic changes in the skin's structure and vascular system. These vascular changes result in a wide array of dermatologic findings, ranging from the benign to the highly morbid. Herein, we review the impact of both intrinsic and common extrinsic factors of aging on cutaneous vasculature and highlight the manifestations of microvascular, venous, arterial, lymphatic, and neuropathic alterations in the geriatric population.

A polymethoxyflavone mixture, extracted from orange peels, suppresses the UVB-induced expression of MMP-1

Ultraviolet (UV) B is the main cause of skin photoageing, which has characteristic features such as deep wrinkles. UVB increases the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in the skin and can cause wrinkles by disrupting components of the extracellular matrix, such as collagen fibres. We now report that a polymethoxyflavone (PMF) mixture, extracted from orange peels, suppresses the UVB-induced expression of MMP-1 that involves the inhibition of c-jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) activity. Furthermore, the PMF mixture also inhibits the UVB-induced phosphorylation of JNK. Therefore, the results suggest that the PMF mixture suppresses the UVB-induced expression of MMP-1 through the inhibition of JNK phosphorylation and should be useful as an antiphotoageing agent.

Ultraviolet B eye irradiation aggravates atopic dermatitis via adrenocorticotropic hormone and NLRP3 inflammasome in NC/Nga mice

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet (UV) B irradiation has been shown to improve atopic dermatitis (AD). However, the relationship between UVB eye irradiation and AD is not known. This issue was addressed using a mouse model of AD.

METHODS

The eyes of NC/Nga mice were irradiated with UVB at a dose of 1.0 kJ/m² using a 20SE sunlamp for the duration of the experimental period.

RESULTS

AD symptoms deteriorated upon UVB eye irradiation. The levels of adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH) in the plasma and nucleotide-binding domain and leucine-rich-containing family, pyrin domain-containing (NLRP)3 and neutrophil markers in the skin were increased in UVB-irradiated mice. Treatment with inhibitors of ACTH, caspase-1, interleukin-18, and thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP) partly reversed the effects of irradiation, with the greatest improvement observed upon ACTH inhibition. The NLRP3 inflammasome was implicated in the effects of UVB irradiation.

CONCLUSIONS

UVB eye irradiation causes AD symptom deterioration, which is likely mediated by ACTH and the activity of the inflammasome.

Evaluating and Optimizing the Diagnosis of Erythematotelangiectatic Rosacea

Erythematotelangiectatic rosacea is the most prevalent rosacea subtype. Multiple dermatologic conditions may mimic erythematotelangiectatic rosacea. The authors review a comprehensive approach to evaluating subjects with a suspected diagnosis of erythematotelangiectatic rosacea and discuss findings that may warrant further investigation. Differential diagnoses can be narrowed based on the presence of characteristics such as transient erythema, nontransient erythema, and telangiectasias. A thorough history and physical examination are critical in ruling out conditions such as dermatomyositis, lupus erythematosus, atopic dermatitis, and seborrheic dermatitis.

Protective effects of rosmarinic acid against hydrogen peroxide‑induced cellular senescence and the inflammatory response in normal human dermal fibroblasts

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is a reactive oxygen species (ROS) that induces numerous cellular events, including cellular senescence and inflammatory responses. Therefore, the aim of this study was to investigate the protective effect of Rosmarinic acid (RA) in H2O2‑induced oxidative stress in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). Cytotoxicity assays were performed using a water‑soluble tetrazolium salt, and senescence‑associated β‑galactosidase activity was determined to investigate the proportion of senescent cells. Antioxidant capacities were evaluated via H2O2‑scavenging activity, reverse transcription‑quantitative polymerase chain reaction, NRF2 luciferase reporter gene activity and intracellular ROS scavenging assays. Cytokine‑coded gene expression analysis and nuclear factor‑κB luciferase activity were determined to verify the anti‑inflammatory effect of RA. As a result, the present study demonstrated that rosmarinic acid inhibited H2O2‑induced oxidative stress and inflammatory responses in normal human dermal fibroblasts. Initially, the doses of RA that exerted minimal cytotoxic effects in NHDFs were determined using a cytotoxicity assay. Subsequently, pretreatment with the appropriate doses of RA significantly reversed the H2O2‑induced decrease in NHDF cell viability and decreased cellular senescence of NHDFs. In addition, RA inhibited H2O2‑induced ROS production in NHDFs, as determined by a ROS scavenging assay. The protective effects of RA were mediated by the inhibition of nuclear factor erythroid‑derived 2‑like 2, a transcription factor that functions as a key regulator of redox sensitivity. Furthermore, RA suppressed H2O2‑induced inflammation in NHDFs and significantly rescued H2O2‑induced downregulation of sirtuin 1. RA also inhibited nuclear factor (NF)‑κB transcriptional activity and the expression of NF‑κB target genes, including tumor necrosis factor‑α and interleukin‑6, in H2O2‑exposed NHDFs. Taken together, these data indicate that RA inhibits H2O2‑induced cellular damage in NHDFs.

Influences of age, ethnic group, and skin sites on a provisory skin marking, experimentally induced, in vivo

BACKGROUND

To study capacity of skin to being imprinted by a marking head rapidly applied (10 seconds) onto the skin under a standardized pressure (15 kPa).

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Referential photographs of skin markings, resulting from different times of application serve at grading the extent of skin imprints. The imprinting tool, equipped with 5 linear bulbs of different sizes but same thickness (1 mm), was applied onto the cheeks of 641 women of different ages (18-80 years) of 3 different ethnic groups. In the cohort of 198 Caucasian women, the marking head was pressed onto 3 different sites (outer arm, cheek, and dorsal forearm) and the kinetics of skin recovery from cheek marking was recorded on a smaller and younger part of this Caucasian cohort, ie, 141 Caucasian women, aged 18-59 years.

RESULTS

The recorded intensities of skin markings were found highly correlated with age in all 3 studied ethnic groups (Chinese, African-American, and Caucasian). Caucasian women seem more sensitive to the marking and the kinetics of recovery from such imprint was found highly dependent from its intensity, ie, the higher the grades, the slower the recovery. In Caucasian women, intensities were different between skin sites, where arm showed higher resistance to marking. Possible impact of photo-aging on the decreased skin resistance to such provoked deformation is likely of minor amplitude, as compared to the one induced by chronological aging.

CONCLUSION

This method offers a new vision on skin aging, in its variable response to a standard deformation that appears mostly driven by chronological aging.

The relationship between skin function, barrier properties, and body-dependent factors

BACKGROUND

Skin is a multilayer interface between the body and the environment, responsible for many important functions, such as temperature regulation, water transport, sensation, and protection from external triggers.

OBJECTIVES

This paper provides an overview of principal factors that influence human skin and describes the diversity of skin characteristics, its causes and possible consequences. It also discusses limitations in the barrier function of the skin, describing mechanisms of absorption.

METHODS

There are a number of in vivo investigations focusing on the diversity of human skin characteristics with reference to barrier properties and body-dependent factors.

RESULTS

Skin properties vary among individuals of different age, gender, ethnicity, and skin types. In addition, skin characteristics differ depending on the body site and can be influenced by the body-mass index and lifestyle. Although one of the main functions of the skin is to act as a barrier, absorption of some substances remains possible.

CONCLUSIONS

Various factors can alter human skin properties, which can be reflected in skin function and the quality of everyday life. Skin properties and function are strongly interlinked.

Fabrication of Tamarindus indica seeds extract loaded-cream for photo-aged skin: Visioscan® studies

INTRODUCTION

Intracellular and extracellular oxidative stress triggered by free radicals promotes skin aging, which is designated by atypical pigmentation and wrinkles. The consumption of antioxidants is an efficacious measure to avert symptoms involved in skin aging.

AIM

The current research was commenced to explore the anti-aging potential of antioxidants present in Tamarindus indica seeds extract.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Tamarindus indica seeds extract was obtained by concentrating the ethanolic extract of seeds. The antioxidant activities of the extract were measured by nitric oxide radical scavenging assay, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay, hydroxyl radical scavenging assay and superoxide radical scavenging assay. Formulation comprising 4% of the concentrated extract of seeds was formulated by loading it in the internal aqueous phase of water-in-oil (W/O) cosmetic emulsion. The base, used as control, consisted of the same emulsion but without loading Tamarindus indica seeds extract. The cosmetic emulsions were applied to the cheeks of 11 healthy male volunteers for duration of 12 weeks. Both base and formulation were assessed for their antioxidant effects on different skin parameters i.e. skin moisture contents, elasticity and surface evaluation of living skin (SELS).

RESULTS

The formulation showed statistically significant (p ≤ 0.05) and the base showed insignificant (p > 0.05) effects on skin elasticity and skin moisture contents. There is a significant decline in SELS, skin scaliness (SEsc), skin wrinkles (SEw), skin smoothness (SEsm), and skin roughness (SEr) parameters after application of the formulation.

CONCLUSIONS

Topical application of the cosmetic emulsion entrapped with Tamarindus indica seeds extract containing various antioxidants exerts potential skin antiaging effects.

Aging-related changes in the diversity of women's skin microbiomes associated with oral bacteria

Skin aging is associated with changes in cutaneous physiology including interactions with a skin microbial community. A striking alteration and diversification in the skin microbiome with aging was observed between two different age groups of 37 healthy Japanese women, i.e. younger adults of 21–37 years old and older adults of 60–76 years old, using bacterial 16S rRNA gene sequencing. The analyses revealed that the alpha diversity/species richness was significantly higher in the older than the younger group for the cheek and forehead microbiomes, while the beta diversity in the overall structure significantly differed particularly for the forearm and scalp microbiomes between the two age groups. Taxonomic profiling showed a striking reduction in the relative abundance of the majority skin genus Propionibacterium in the cheek, forearm and forehead microbiomes of the older adults, and identified 38 species including many oral bacteria that significantly differentiated the two age groups with a skin site dependency. Furthermore, we found chronological age-related and unrelated skin clinical parameters that correlate with the observed changes in the skin microbiome diversity. Thus, our data suggested that the diversification of skin microbiomes in adult women was largely affected by chronological and physiological skin aging in association with oral bacteria.

Inhibitory effect of burdock leaves on elastase and tyrosinase activity

Burdock (Arctium lappa L.) leaves generate a considerable amount of waste following burdock root harvest in Taiwan. To increase the use of burdock leaves, the present study investigated the optimal methods for producing burdock leaf extract (BLE) with high antioxidant polyphenolic content, including drying methods and solvent extraction concentration. In addition, the elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory activity of BLE was examined. Burdock leaves were dried by four methods: Shadow drying, oven drying, sun drying and freeze-drying. The extract solution was then subjected to total polyphenol content analysis and the method that produced BLE with the highest amount of total antioxidant components was taken forward for further analysis. The 1,1-diphenyl-2-pycrylhydrazyl scavenging, antielastase and antityrosinase activity of the BLE were measured to enable the evaluation of the antioxidant and skin aging-associated enzyme inhibitory activities of BLE. The results indicated that the total polyphenolic content following extraction with ethanol (EtOH) was highest using the freeze-drying method, followed by the oven drying, shadow drying and sun drying methods. BLE yielded a higher polyphenol content and stronger antioxidant activity as the ratio of the aqueous content of the extraction solvent used increased. BLE possesses marked tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities, with its antielastase activity notably stronger compared with its antityrosinase activity. These results indicate that the concentration of the extraction solvent was associated with the antioxidant and skin aging-associated enzyme inhibitory activity of BLE. The reactive oxygen species scavenging theory of skin aging may explain the tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activity of BLE. In conclusion, the optimal method for obtaining BLE with a high antioxidant polyphenolic content was freeze-drying followed by 30-50% EtOH extraction. In addition, the antielastase and antityrosinase activities of the BLE produced may be aid in the development of skincare products with antiwrinkle and skin-evening properties.

Tretinoin peel: a critical view

The tretinoin peel, also known as retinoic acid peel, is a superficial peeling often performed in dermatological clinics in Brazil. The first study on this was published in 2001, by Cuce et al., as a treatment option for melasma. Since then, other studies have reported its applicability with reasonable methodology, although without a consistent scientific background and consensus. Topical tretinoin is used for the treatment of various dermatoses such as acne, melasma, scars, skin aging and non-melanoma skin cancer. The identification of retinoids cellular receptors was reported in 1987, but a direct cause-effect relation has not been established. This article reviews studies evaluating the use of topical tretinoin as agent for superficial chemical peel. Most of them have shown benefits in the treatment of melasma and skin aging. A better quality methodology in the study design, considering indication and intervention is indispensable regarding concentration, vehicle and treatment regimen (interval and number of applications). Additionally, more controlled and randomized studies comparing the treatment with tretinoin cream versus its use as a peeling agent, mainly for melasma and photoaging, are necessary.

Daily Use of a Facial Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Over One-Year Significantly Improves Clinical Evaluation of Photoaging

BACKGROUND

Sunscreens are known to protect from sun damage; however, their effects on the reversal of photodamage have been minimally investigated.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of the prospective study was to evaluate the efficacy of a facial sun protection factor (SPF) 30 formulation for the improvement of photodamage during a 1-year use.

METHODS

Thirty-two subjects applied a broad spectrum photostable sunscreen (SPF 30) for 52 weeks to the entire face. Assessments were conducted through dermatologist evaluations and subjects' self-assessment at baseline and then at Weeks 12, 24, 36, and 52.

RESULTS

Clinical evaluations showed that all photoaging parameters improved significantly from baseline as early as Week 12 and the amelioration continued until Week 52. Skin texture, clarity, and mottled and discrete pigmentation were the most improved parameters by the end of the study (40% to 52% improvement from baseline), with 100% of subjects showing improvement in skin clarity and texture.

CONCLUSION

The daily use of a facial broad-spectrum photostable sunscreen may visibly reverse the signs of existing photodamage, in addition to preventing additional sun damage.

A Combination of Soybean and Haematococcus Extract Alleviates Ultraviolet B-Induced Photoaging

Soybean-derived isoflavones have been investigated for their preventative effects against UV-induced symptoms of skin damage including wrinkle formation and inflammation. Haematococcus pluvialis is a freshwater species of Chlorophyta that contains high concentrations of the natural carotenoid pigment astaxanthin. Astaxanthin is known to be involved in retinoic acid receptor (RAR) signaling and previously been associated with the inhibition of activator protein (AP)-1 dependent transcription. Based on previous studies, we hypothesized that a combination of soy extract (SE) and Haematococcus extract (HE) may prevent UVB-induced photoaging through specific signaling pathways, as measured by UVB-induced wrinkling on hairless mice skin and expression changes in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). The 1:2 ratio of SE and HE mixture (SHM) showed the optimal benefit in vivo. SHM was found to inhibit wrinkle formation via the downregulation of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 mRNA and protein expression. SHM also inhibited mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) phosphorylation and the transactivation of AP-1 which plays an important role in regulating MMP expression. These results highlight the potential for SHM to be developed as a therapeutic agent to prevent UVB-induced skin wrinkling.