The relevance and accuracy of an AI algorithm-based descriptor on 23 facial attributes in a diverse female US population

BACKGROUND

The response of AI in situations that mimic real life scenarios is poorly explored in populations of high diversity.

OBJECTIVE

To assess the accuracy and validate the relevance of an automated, algorithm-based analysis geared toward facial attributes devoted to the adornment routines of women.

METHODS

In a cross-sectional study, two diversified groups presenting similar distributions such as age, ancestry, skin phototype, and geographical location was created from the selfie images of 1041 female in a US population. 521 images were analyzed as part of a new training dataset aimed to improve the original algorithm and 520 were aimed to validate the performance of the AI. From a total 23 facial attributes (16 continuous and 7 categorical), all images were analyzed by 24 make-up experts and by the automated descriptor tool.

RESULTS

For all facial attributes, the new and the original automated tool both surpassed the grading of the experts on a diverse population of women. For the 16 continuous attributes, the gradings obtained by the new system strongly correlated with the assessment made by make-up experts (r ≥ 0.80; p < 0.0001) and supported by a low error rate. For the seven categorical attributes, the overall accuracy of the AI-facial descriptor was improved via enrichment of the training dataset. However, some weaker performance in spotting specific facial attributes were noted.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, the AI-automatic facial descriptor tool was deemed accurate for analysis of facial attributes for diverse women although some skin complexion, eye color, and hair features required some further finetuning.

A Bayesian network meta-analysis of 14 molecules inhibiting UV daylight-induced pigmentation

INTRODUCTION

Hyperpigmentation disorders are very frequent, affect the quality of life and may become a psychological burden for afflicted patients. Many anti-pigmenting or depigmenting agents are available with various efficacy and almost no comparative data. 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) was recently proposed as a viable candidate showing safe and effective results on hyperpigmentation control in vitro and in vivo.

OBJECTIVES

A Bayesian network meta-analysis (BNMA) was conducted to map and rank the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on UV daylight (UVDL)-induced pigmentation together with 13 other reference molecules. A comparison in the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% was also performed.

METHODOLOGY

Fourteen studies were conducted, for each, on 15-30 women of skin phototype III in Shanghai, China and Paris, France. The products were applied on mini zone, in randomized and blinded protocol, on the back, 5 days a week during 6 weeks, at a dose of 4 mg/cm2 . During the second week, volunteers were exposed under to varying minimum erythemal dose of UVDL during 4 consecutive days-adapted to obtain a similar induction of skin pigmentation regardless of the population. Assessments were performed instrumentally using Chromameter®. Ascorbic acid 7% was used as a positive control for all experiments. A Bayesian network meta-analysis was then established to map and follow the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% performance with 13 reference molecules (glutathione 2%, kojic acid 1%, hydroquinone 4%, ascorbyl glucoside 2%, niacinamide 4%, etc.).

RESULTS

2-MNG 0.5% dominated the ranking at all time points with a significant high probability of strong efficacy against UVDL-induced pigmentation. Ascorbic acid 7% ranks second after 4 days of irradiations (D12 ) whereas hydroquinone 4% ranks second 1 month after irradiations (D40 ). In the kinetics, 2-MNG at 0.5% was effective as from the end of irradiations (D12 ) to the study endpoint (D40 ). This suggested an immediate and persistent efficacy across all timepoints evaluated.

CONCLUSION

The BNMA revealed a rapid and lasting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting phases of the clinical protocol. 2-MNG 0.5% ranked first, with immediate and lasting effect compared to 13 other references. This study is the first allowing comparison between reference anti-pigmenting and depigmenting agents and will help clinicians for proposing the most effective approach for their patients.

Awareness of sun exposure risks and photoprotection for preventing pigmentary disorders in Asian populations: Survey results from three Asian countries and expert panel recommendations

BACKGROUND

In this article, we review and discuss the photoprotection behavior of Asians based on the literature, along with a subanalysis of an original online survey, and make recommendations to optimize photoprotection for Asian populations to prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

METHODS

An international panel of eight dermatologists from Asia (China, Korea, Japan, Singapore, Indonesia, and Vietnam) met to discuss sunscreen photoprotection for Asian patients. Additionally, a subanalysis of an online survey by 3000 respondents from three Asian countries (China, Indonesia, and Japan) investigated general public awareness and attitudes to sun exposure.

RESULTS

A pre-meeting survey of the eight experts from Asia showed key concerns of Asian patients consulting dermatologists are pigmentary disorders, especially actinic/senile lentigo, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, vitiligo, and Hori's nevus. The survey subanalysis of participants from China, Indonesia, and Japan with predominantly Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) II to IV revealed that they are particularly concerned about sun exposure causing photoaging and pigmentary disorders. Most of the respondents indicated they have limited knowledge on sunlight radiation and appropriate sunscreen protection factors. Only 22%, 13%, and 3% for China, Indonesia, and Japan, respectively, systematically use multiple protective measures (using sunscreen, avoiding midday sun, staying in the shade, wearing a hat, protective clothing, and sunglasses) when exposed to the sun.

CONCLUSIONS

Further education is needed for Asian populations on the importance of comprehensive daily photoprotection, including broad-spectrum sunscreen, with high UVA and visible light protection, to reduce and prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

The impact of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) UVA1 filter on pigmentary and ageing signs: An outdoor prospective 8-week randomized, intra-individual comparative study in two populations of different genetic background

BACKGROUND

Of all ultraviolet (UV) radiations reaching the earth, UVA1 rays have a higher potential of penetrating and producing clinically harmful consequences. While UV radiations up to 370 nm are well-blocked by current sunscreens, a photoprotection gap remains for the UVA1 wavelengths between 370 and 400 nm.

OBJECTIVE

This study was to assess under outdoor summer conditions the impact on pigmentation and skin ageing signs of a protection against UVA1 using methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) filter added to a reference SPF50 sunscreen, in comparison with the same sunscreen without the MCE filter.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This prospective randomized comparative intra-individual study was conducted in 113 women in Brazil and China. Subjects had their face and two forearms exposed twice-daily to a 1-h outdoor sunlight exposure over 8 weeks. Before exposure, the SPF50 sunscreen containing 3% MCE was applied on one half-face and one forearm and the same reference product without MCE on the other half-face and forearm. Primary study endpoint was skin colour changes (chromametry). Other endpoints included expert panel grading of pigmentation and facial skin ageing, and naïve panel assessment of facial skin radiance and homogeneity.

RESULTS

After 8 weeks, the skin was darker on both forearms but the increase in sun-induced pigmentation was smaller with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen. Expert panel evaluations showed no change in severity scores for pigmentation and a decreased severity scores for facial skin ageing in areas protected with the SPF50/MCE product: severity scores in areas protected with the SPF50 alone were either increased (pigmentation) or unchanged (skin ageing). Naïve panel evaluations of skin radiance and homogeneity showed statistically significant superiority of the SPF50/MCE product.

CONCLUSION

Overall, this study demonstrates that a protection with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen significantly reduces pigmentation and ageing signs compared to the same SPF50 sunscreen.

The objective and subjective impact of a daily self-massage on visible signs of stress on the skin and emotional well-being

INTRODUCTION

Currently, levels of stress, worry and sadness are increasing worldwide. Considered a part of healthcare, massage is associated with morphological, biological and psychological benefits. Little is known about using daily facial self-massage to improve skin quality and well-being.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the impact of a daily self-massage on the visible signs of stress on facial skin and well-being in women.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This open, prospective, clinical study was conducted in Paris, France. The visible signs of facial ageing were assessed with an objective 10-point scale and a subjective skin and well-being assessment with an online self-questionnaire. Each day for 2 weeks, participants performed a prescribed, 3-min self-massage routine at-home using a lubricant made of botanical oils. The prescribed massage included 14 gestures including stretching, flicking, deep typing, friction and smoothing on the face.

RESULTS

Overall, 50 women, with Fitzpatrick skin type II or III, aged between 40 and 60 years were enrolled. Several statistically significant improvements on skin ageing signs were observed ptosis (p < 0.005, Student's t-test, -4.9%), fine lines (p < 0.0001 Student's t-test, -23.8%), plumpness (p < 0.005, Student's t-test, +4.4%) and radiance (p < 0.0001 Student's t-test, +16.7%). Subjective benefits were also declared. Most participants (>85%) agreed that their skin looks smoother, more bouncy and fine lines were reduced. Also, 100% of women declare that the massage boosts their feeling of well-being.

CONCLUSION

This study showed that facial self-massage provided significant, visible clinical, and self-observed skin benefits, and feelings of well-being.

Applications of the new Aeva-HE™ imaging system: Its link with the visual evaluation of facial wrinkles and its potential in screening tensile products

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate, in vivo, a recently developed imaging system (Aeva-HE™), based on fringe projection methodology: (i) its correlation with expert's assessments and real age of 85 French Caucasian women and (ii) its potential, as a screening tool, in rapidly selecting prototypes of tensile cosmetic products.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

First, the bare faces of 85 differently aged French/Caucasian women were photographed under standard conditions and further analyzed by the Aeva-HE™ device. An expert aesthetician graded the severity of wrinkling on a fixed scale, helped by the use of a dedicated Skin Aging Atlas. A panel of 15 judges performed the same task on full-face standard photographs. The Aeva-HE™ software yielded various wrinkle's parameters (density, volume, mean depth, etc.) on different facial locations, according to age-groups. Second, seven women, balanced in age and wrinkling severity, were recruited in a separate study. These women applied at Day 1 a prototype of the tensile product and at Day 2, they applied another prototype of the tensile product. The whole faces (before and after products application) of the seven studied women were captured and analyzed by the Aeva-HE™ system.

RESULTS

The density of wrinkles was significantly highly correlated with the aesthetician scores and, unsurprisingly, with age. Some parameters (volume, depths) of different wrinkles (glabellar, crow's feet, cheeks) were quantified, showing different absolute values and of statistically different progressions with age. The amplitudes of the rapid effects brought by the two prototypes of tensile products were clearly differentiated.

CONCLUSION

The recently developed device Aeva-HE™ is an efficient system for rapidly establishing a faithful and precise status of facial wrinkles, in vivo and seems like a precious tool in the rapid screening of tensile products, possibly performed on a rather limited number of subjects.

Photoaging's portrait: The road map towards its photoprotection

OBJECTIVE

To summarize key research published by the author's group, dealing with skin photoaging and its photoprotection.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Two methodologies (standard photographs and selfies imaging) resulting from referential skin ageing atlases were applied on 2487 subjects of different ancestries, ages and gender. These aimed at first to best assess and grade the variable severities of some facial signs (texture/wrinkles, pigmentary spots, sagging and vascular disorders) that occur progressively during the photoaging process. Second, such methodologies were used to record the benefits brought by a photoprotective regimen (671 women and men).

RESULTS

In all studied ancestries, each facial sign show an increase severity along decades, at its own pace, some showing a linear like progression, whereas some plateau at early ages. These changes differed according to skin innate colour (phototype) and with individual behaviours vis-à-vis sun exposures, more so among European women than North-East Asian women. An effect of gender (less severe alterations) was observed on Chinese men, as compared to Chinese women. Pigmentary disorders were found hallmarks of photo-aged North-East Asian women. Globally, photoaging impact the apparent age of the different subjects. The counteracting effects of strong topical Photoprotective regimens were evidenced along a 6-month seasonality in Chinese and French women or 1-year period in Brazilian women with phototypes II to VI. Photoprotection led to a more even skin complexion among Indian subjects with pigment irregularities.

CONCLUSION

Two factors clearly hamper a better assessment of the efficiency of photoprotection of the sun-induced cutaneous ageing: short durations (months) of the studies with regard to the global fate of photoaging by decades and the number of studied subjects, limited to hundreds for practical reasons. The methodology based on the automatic analysis of facial signs through selfies images could theoretically bypass both factors, allowing thousands of subjects to be studied along years.

Impact on facial skin aging signs of a 1-year standardized photoprotection over a classical skin care routine in skin phototypes II-VI individuals: A prospective randomized trial

BACKGROUND

Data reflecting the impact of photoprotection on cutaneous aging are scarce and mostly limited to fair skin.

OBJECTIVE

To assess the effectiveness of a photoprotective product in counteracting the photoaging process in different skin phototypes over 1 year compared against a classical routine.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Two hundred and ninety Brazilian women aged 30-65 years, with skin phototype II-VI were equally randomized in two groups. Group 1 kept on their routine whereas Group 2 applied, twice daily, a photoprotective product (SPF 60, PPD = 24.1) replacing the one they routinely used. Volunteers reported the duration of their daily sun-exposure. Standardized photographs taken at D0 and D365 were analysed by 15 dermatologists to assess eight wrinkles and pigmentation signs.

RESULTS

A global increase in severity was reported which was significant for Group 1. This increase was lower in Group 2 where only half the signs showed significant worsening. In Group 2 versus Group 1, the increase in forehead wrinkles, marionette lines, wrinkles created by ptosis and size of dark spot was significantly (p < 0.05) decreased by 30%-50%.

CONCLUSION

Daily application of a high photoprotective product significantly decreases the progression of skin aging signs after 1 year in skin phototypes II-VI.

Video-based paired comparison to evaluate some cosmetic products under camera movement for dynamic performance

OBJECTIVE

Until now, standardized evaluation of cosmetic effects was conducted mainly in still conditions such as pictures. In real life, the consumers' experience of their cosmetics' effects is dynamic and some of the benefits can be better observed under movement. In order to capture motion-related performance of cosmetics, we developed a video-based paired comparison on an online platform.

METHODS

We validated this new tool through the evaluation of eyeshadow with high light reflection and colour gradation, especially visible under motion according to the observer point of view. This formula was compared with two marketed benchmarks. The three products were applied sequentially on the eyelid of eight Japanese women. Videos were taken in standardized light, speed and face position with a rotating camera around the face. The videos were uploaded on an online secured platform and eyelid 3D effect, highlight and colour gradation were evaluated through paired comparison test by 60 Japanese women from home on their PC or tablets. Those results were compared with picture-based paired comparison by the same observers.

RESULTS

Video-based paired comparison provided higher discrimination of products compared to picture-based comparison.

CONCLUSION

As compared to still camera acquisition, the evaluation of cosmetics based on videos is closer to real-life experience and can bring higher discrimination, especially for motion-related attributes.

Evaluation of adapted dermocosmetic regimens for perimenopausal and menopausal women using an artificial intelligence-based algorithm and quality of life questionnaires: An open observational study

BACKGROUND

The decline in estrogen levels from several years before (perimenopause) and during menopause has various negative effects, including skin specific issues, which often receive less attention than other menopausal symptoms despite having a significant negative effect on quality of life (QoL). The objective of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of anti-aging dermocosmetic products designed for women during the perimenopause and menopause.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

An open study of 101 perimenopausal women (no menstruation for 4-12 months or irregular menstruation for <5 years) and 101 menopausal women (no menstruation for >12 months), not taking hormone replacement therapy, was conducted. Adapted dermocosmetic regimens, specific to each group (day cream, night cream and serum), were applied for 56 days. Assessments included automatic artificial intelligence diagnostics of eight clinical facial signs, hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and a menopause skin QoL questionnaire.

RESULTS

Mean age was 50 ± 3.9 years (range 41-57) and 59 ± 3.8 years (range 50-66) for the perimenopause and menopause groups, respectively. Significant improvements in wrinkles and vascular signs, increases in hydration, decreases in TEWL, and a positive impact on QoL were observed after 56 days of application of the respective dermocosmetic regimens for both the perimenopause and menopause groups.

CONCLUSION

The anti-aging skin care products designed specifically for perimenopausal and menopausal women increased skin hydration and improved wrinkles with a positive impact on QoL.

Objective and automatic grading system of facial signs from smartphones' pictures in South African men: Validation versus dermatologists and characterization of changes with age

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the capacity of the automatic detection system to accurately grade, from selfie pictures, the severity of eight facial signs in South African men.

METHODS

Selfie pictures (obtained from frontal and back cameras) of 281 South African men differently aged (20-70 years) were obtained and analyzed by an automatic artificial intelligence (AI)-based automatic grading system. Data were compared with the clinical gradings made by experts and dermatologists.

RESULTS

In all facial signs, both series of gradings were found highly correlated with, however, different coefficients (0.59-0.95), those of marionette lines and cheek pores being of lower values. No differences were observed between data obtained by frontal and back cameras. With age, in most cases, gradings show up to the 50-59 year age-class, linear-like changes. When compared to men of other ancestries, South African men present lower wrinkles/texture, pigmentation, and ptosis/sagging scores till 50-59 years, albeit not much different in the cheek pores sign. The early onset (mean age) of visibility of wrinkles/texture for South African men were (i.e., reaching grade >1) 39 and 45 years for ptosis/sagging.

CONCLUSION

This study completes and enlarges the previous works conducted on men of other ancestries by showing some South African specificities and slight differences with men of comparable phototypes (Afro American).

In vitro and in vivo validation of a new three-dimensional fringe projection-based device (AEVA-HE) dedicated to skin surface mapping

BACKGROUND

Aging signs are much visible on the surface of the skin that presents different changes: cheeks start to sag, more and deeper wrinkles appear, and pigmentation spots increase. Face diagnostic to recommend products includes assessing cutaneous micro-relief or the micro-depressive network on the face. Furthermore, there is an increasing demand for clinical and instrumental methods to prove the efficacy of anti-aging treatments. As a result, very accurate and sensitive three-dimensional (3D) devices are developed and validated to measure and quantify aging skin and to catch fine anti-aging products acting on wrinkles and fine lines.

METHODS

AEVA-HE, a non-invasive 3D method based on fringe projection technology, is used to robustly characterize the skin micro-relief from a full-face acquisition and from multiple extracted zones of interest. In vitro and in vivo studies are conducted to assess the reproducibility of this system and its precision toward a standard fringe projection system, DermaTOP.

RESULTS

The AEVA-HE successfully measured micro-relief and wrinkles and demonstrated the reproducibility of measurements.  AEVA-HE parameters were found highly correlated to DermaTOP.

CONCLUSION

The present work illustrates the performance of the AEVA-HE device and its dedicated software kit as a precious tool for quantifying the major characteristics of wrinkles appearing with age and thus offers a high potential for assessing the effect of anti-wrinkling products.

Analysis of images supplied by Skincam® can record the changes of some scar features that occur over time. Comparisons with the assessments of dermatologist and patients' perception

OBJECTIVE

The objective of the study was to assess in vivo the validity of a new imaging device in quantifying the scarring process over time and to compare its data with the expertise of dermatologist and patients' self-appraisals.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A total of 37 Korean women, aged 20-50 year, with closed scars of different types, were enrolled after a dermatological evaluation. All subjects applied daily a hydrating cream on their scars for 2 months. Images of scars at different times (Day 0, Day 28, and Day 56) were taken and further analyzed, yielding various parameters such as color, luminance, size, volume, and depth of each scar. A dermatologist visually graded, at each time point, the clinical aspect of the scar, and patients were asked to answer to some questions dealing with their self-examination of their scar.

RESULTS

The changes in some scar features that occurred during the application period were quantified and statistically differed from the D₀ baseline value. Scars became of reduced size, lighter (Increased luminance), less red, less deep, and less voluminous. Some of these parameters (volume, lightness, smoothness, texture regularity) were statistically different at D₂₈ whereas some others (area, depth, redness) showed significant changes at D₅₆ . Dermatologist expertise and patients' assessments were in high agreement.

CONCLUSION

This methodological approach that uses a dedicated camera associated with image analysis, despite some inherent limits (size of the scar), appears as a valuable aid to surgeons in the management of scars, in the follow-up of a given procedure or treatment. Beyond scar management, this approach may be extended to other skin disorders such as acne.

Accuracy and clinical relevance of an automated, algorithm-based analysis of facial signs from selfie images of women in the United States of various ages, ancestries and phototypes: A cross-sectional observational study

BACKGROUND

Real-life validation is necessary to ensure our artificial intelligence (AI) skin diagnostic tool is inclusive across a diverse and representative US population of various ages, ancestries and skin phototypes.

OBJECTIVES

To explore the relevance and accuracy of an automated, algorithm-based analysis of facial signs in representative women of different ancestries, ages and phototypes, living in the same country.

METHODS

In a cross-sectional study of selfie images of 1041 US women, algorithm-based analyses of seven facial signs were automatically graded by an AI-based algorithm and by 50 US dermatologists of various profiles (age, gender, ancestry, geographical location). For automated analysis and dermatologist assessment, the same referential skin atlas was used to standardize the grading scales. The average values and their variability were compared with respect to age, ancestry and phototype.

RESULTS

For five signs, the grading obtained by the automated system were strongly correlated with dermatologists' assessments (r ≥ 0.75); cheek skin pores were moderately correlated (r = 0.63) and pigmentation signs, especially for the darkest skin tones, were weakly correlated (r = 0.40) to the dermatologist assessments. Age and ancestry had no effect on the correlations. In many cases, the automated system performed better than the dermatologist-assessed clinical grading due to 0.3-0.5 grading unit differences among the dermatologist panel that were not related to any individual characteristic (e.g. gender, age, ancestry, location). The use of phototypes, as discontinuous categorical variables, is likely a limiting factor in the assessments of grading, whether obtained by automated analysis or clinical assessment of the images.

CONCLUSIONS

The AI-based automatic procedure is accurate and clinically relevant for analysing facial signs in a diverse and inclusive population of US women, as confirmed by a diverse panel of dermatologists, although skin tone requires further improvement.

Structural and Functional age-related changes in some facial signs of Chinese men. A Pilot study

OBJECTIVE

To associate, on the same Chinese male subjects, changes in facial aging signs with some biomechanical skin properties.

METHODS

The severities of 20 facial aging signs of 219 differently aged Chinese men (20-65y) were graded in blind by trained experts through standardized photographs, using a referential skin Atlas dedicated to Asian men. On each subject, the mechanical properties were assessed on the cheek area (left or right at random) by the validated suction technique Cutometer®. Finally, the skin color parameters were assessed on images from VISIA-CR device.

RESULTS

Clinically speaking, the severity of almost all facial aging signs increases from 30y to 65y, in a linear like progression, whereas the 20-30y shows weak increases. Skin color shows slight but progressive decreases in Luminance and ITA, whereas the yellow and red components slightly increased between 40y and 65y. At the exception of skin firmness, the skin mechanical properties show a clear decline during the 30-50y period and plateau beyond.

CONCLUSION

The present study suggests that the 20-30y period, albeit more clinically "silent" than the other periods of age, seems to be an age-range during which early alterations of some dermal elements' onset. Deeper in vivo investigating techniques (Echography, Multiphotonic microscopy) are needed to confirm such hypothesis.

Repeatability and reproducibility of a hyperspectral imaging system for in vivo color evaluation

BACKGROUND

Color imaging is a tried and true method for the evaluation of cosmetic and dermatological effects, but it fails to capture all the information in a scene's spectral reflectance. For this reason, there has been in recent years increasing interest in the use of imaging spectrometers for clinical studies and product evaluation.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

We developed a novel HyperSpectral Imager (HSI) able to take in vivo full-face format images as a next generation instrument for skin color measurement and beyond. Here, we report part of the results of our first full-scale validation test of the HSI. We replicated a make-up foundation screening test by applying three products to a panel of 9 models and evaluated the product L^∗ , a^∗ , b^∗ , and ∆E effect immediately after application relative to the bare skin condition. We repeated this test twice in order to study the repeatability of the HSI as an evaluation instrument and during each test two different operators duplicated the data acquisition so we can assess the reproducibility of the measurements.

RESULTS

We find that the measurements from the HSI provide repeatability and reproducibility as good or better than those of our previous benchmark devices.

CONCLUSION

From these results, we conclude that not only is the HSI suitable for use in color evaluation studies, but also that it gives operational advantages over the previous generation of evaluation instruments, as it provides a spectral measurement combined with good spatial resolution. This allows for analysis of color over an area and post hoc selection of study regions and so opens new possibilities for studies of complex in vivo phenomena which neither non-imaging spectrometers nor conventional cameras can pursue. This study also raises points for future work concerning proper inclusion of instrument uncertainty in comparisons of results between instruments and handling of systematic uncertainties from analyses based on a single area.

Objective and automatic grading system of facial signs from selfie pictures of South African women: Characterization of changes with age and sun‐exposures

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the capacity of the automatic detection system to accurately grade, from smartphones' selfie pictures, the severity of fifteen facial signs in South African women and their changes related to age and sun-exposure habits.

METHODS

A two-steps approach was conducted based on self-taken selfie images. At first, to assess on 306 South African women (20-69 years) enrolled in Pretoria area (25.74°S, 28.22°E), age changes on fifteen facial signs measured by an artificial intelligence (AI)-based automatic grading system previously validated by experts/dermatologists. Second, as these South African panelists were recruited according to their usual behavior toward sun-exposure, that is, nonsun-phobic (NSP, N = 151) and sun-phobic (SP, N = 155) and through their regular and early use of a photo-protective product, to characterize the facial photo-damages.

RESULTS

(1) The automatic scores showed significant changes with age, by decade, of sagging and wrinkles/texture (p < 0.05) after 20 and 30 years, respectively. Pigmentation cluster scores presented no significant changes with age whereas cheek skin pores enlarged at a low extent with two plateaus at thirties and fifties. (2) After 60 years, a significantly increased severity of wrinkles/texture and sagging was observed in NSP versus SP women (p < 0.05). A trend of an increased pigmentation of the eye contour (p = 0.06) was observed after 50 years.

CONCLUSION

This work illustrates specific impacts of aging and sun-exposures on facial signs of South African women, when compared to previous experiments conducted in Europe or East Asia. Results significantly confirm the importance of sun-avoidance coupled with photo-protective measures to avoid long-term skin damages. In inclusive epidemiological studies that aim at investigating large human panels in very different contexts, the AI-based system offers a fast, affordable and confidential approach in the detection and quantification of facial signs and their dependency with ages, environments, and lifestyles.

Evaluating the respective weights of some facial signs on the perceived radiance/glow in differently aged women of six countries

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the impact of Facial radiance or Glow on the perception of age (PA) and to assess which facial signs most influence PA.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The faces of 1058 differently aged women (18-80 years) of six different ethnicities/countries (China, Japan, Korea, India, South Africa, and Brazil) were photographed under standard conditions. These allowed to focus on 20 different facial signs that were further graded by experts, using referential Atlases dedicated to facial aging. In each of the six countries, 100 local women were recruited as naïve panels to express their perceptions on Glow and Age on each full-face photograph (blind coded) of the local studied woman.

RESULTS

A decreased Glow/Radiance appears clearly associated with an increased perceived age in all studied subjects, especially among Chinese, Japanese, and South African women. With regard facial signs, Skin texture (Wrinkles of all kinds), Ptosis/Sagging, and Pigmentation signs prevail in almost all women at the exception of South African women where Pigmentation signs and Cheek skin pores largely predominate in the perception of both Glow and PA. Pigmentation signs are of a very high weight among Chinese and Japanese women.

CONCLUSION

Despite some collective agreements, the present study shows some specificities within the women of the six ethnicities/countries. PA, a core index of antiaging strategies, goes along with facial Glow in almost all studied women. The duller the facial skin, the older it is perceived.

Skin moisture assessment using Hydration Sensor Patches coupled with smartphones via Near Field Communication (NFC). A pilot study with the first generation of patches that allow self-recordings of skin hydration

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the potency of a new skin hydration sensor patch in the fast self-recording of skin hydration.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The Skin Hydration Sensor Patch (SHSP) turns the user's smartphone into a wireless skin moisture measuring device. The SHSP combines a capacitive measurement unit and Near Field Communication technology (NFC) for transmitting data and energy. The probe is fixed onto the back of the smartphone and pressed to the skin for a few seconds where the application immediately calculates the capacitance value. Once recorded, the probe is then immediately taken off from the skin. In a first study, this system was compared to the Corneometer^® technique, in vivo, on various skin sites of 23 healthy French women. In a second study, 20 women with moderate dry skin on face and forearm self-recorded, through the SHSP the changes in skin hydration induced by a Xanthan gel containing 3% (w/w) of Glycerol, along 24 hours. A questionnaire based on 5 types of questions was established to be filled by subjects about their perception of the use of this new system.

RESULTS

In the first study, the values recorded by the SHSP were found highly correlated with those provided by the Corneometer^® . The second study allowed to observe significant differences in skin hydration of both sites at all times, as compared to values obtained before the application of the gel. Differences between both sites were observed, the face being less hydrated than forearm. From a practical aspect, the self-recordings on the face show a higher variability (approx. 10% than those of the forearm). The questionnaire led to positive answers on almost all points.

CONCLUSION

This SHSP appears as a promising approach in the field of connected skin-related devices. As such, it opens or enlarges a new paradigm in the relationships between a consumer and a cosmetic product.

Developing an Artificial Intelligence (A.I)-based descriptor of facial appearance that fits with the assessments of makeup experts

OBJECTIVE

To develop an A.I-based automatic descriptor that detects and grades, from selfie pictures, 23 facial signs, hairs included, as a help to making-up procedures.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The selfie images taken in very different conditions by 3326 women and men were used to create (90% of dataset) and validate (10% of dataset) a new algorithm architecture to appraise and grade 23 different facial signs such as lips, nose, eye color, eyebrows, eyelashes, and hair color as defined by makeup artists. Each selfie image was annotated by 12 experts and defined references to train Artificial Intelligence (A.I)-based algorithm.

RESULTS

As some the 23 signs present a continuous or discontinuous feature, these were analyzed by two different statistical approaches. The results provided by the automatic descriptor system were not only in good agreement with the expert's assessments but were even found of a better precision and reproducibility. This automatic descriptor system has proven a good and robust accuracy despite the very variable conditions in the acquisition of selfie pictures.

CONCLUSION

Such automatic descriptor system seems providing a valuable help in making-up procedures and may extend to other activities such as Skincare or Haircare. As such it should allow large investigations to better evaluate the consumers' needs of esthetical improvements.

Comparing the self-perceived effects of a facial anti-aging product to those automatically detected from selfie images of Chinese women of different ages and cities

OBJECTIVE

To assess the agreement, after 1-month application of a popular and efficient anti-aging product, between self-perceived facial signs of aging and those detected and graded by an automatic A.I-based system, using smartphones' selfie images.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Of 1065 Chinese women, aged 18-60 years, from eight different Chinese cities were recruited. They were asked to apply daily, for 1 month, a referential anti-aging product onto their whole face. Selfie images were taken by all subjects at D₀ and D₂₈ and sent to our facilities for being analyzed through 10 different facial signs. At D₂₈ , all subjects were asked to fill a questionnaire on the status of their faces, through six general statements.

RESULTS

A global agreement between both approaches is reached, particularly among women older than 40 years where the severity of facial signs is already more pronounced or among younger women who present at least facial signs scored above one grading units. This limit becomes, therefore, a prerequisite in the recruitment of Chinese subjects in the case of anti-aging applied studies and possible automatically based on automatic grading system. When respecting such conditions, the positive effects of the product on most facial signs can be demonstrated after 28 days of successive applications.

CONCLUSION

Such methodological approach paves the road in fulfilling the need of consumers of a better transparency in the claims of an anti-aging product.

A preliminary study to understand the effects of mask on tinted face cosmetics

Background

The recent COVID‐19 pandemic has generalized the use of face mask in public area, and it is now common to wear it for long hours. But face mask interfere with cosmetics, and key concerns for tinted products are staining of the mask and degradation on face. Consumers have modified beauty routine by a decrease of makeup, but are now expecting new products adapted to face mask. Little is known about the mechanisms that affect most the makeup under the face mask, so that further studies are needed to develop adequate evaluation methods and products. In this study, the color transfer on mask and makeup degradation on face are assessed through a mixed approach of consumer and instrumental evaluation.

Materials and Methods

Two tinted face products (A and B) were applied by half face on 11 Japanese women, who conducted real‐life activities with a face mask during 4 hours. Panelists evaluated the stain of their face mask by visual assessment, while the makeup degradation on face was evaluated by color measurement by instrumental method.

Results

No difference was observed between the two products for lasting on face, but consumer evaluation showed a better resistance of product A for color transfer on mask.

Conclusion

The mix of instrumental and consumer evaluation is a promising way to evaluate the makeup degradation on face and color transfer on mask, which are two key factors to develop mask resistant makeup products.

A new procedure, free from human assessment, that automatically grades some facial skin signs in men from selfie pictures. Application to changes induced by a severe aerial chronic urban pollution

OBJECTIVE

These were two folds: at first, to develop an automatic grading system specifically dedicated to some facial signs of men, similar to the one previously validated on women of different ethnic ancestry and second, to assess its potential in detecting and grading the possible impacts of a severe aerial urban pollution on some facial signs of Chinese men.

METHODS

In both studies, selfie images were obtained from differently aged men. Nine facial signs were automatically graded through a specific A.I-based algorithm and clinically assessed by a panel of experts and dermatologists. Selfie pictures were taken from individual smartphones of variable optical properties. The first study, designed for developing an automatic grading system, involved three comparable cohorts of men from three different regional ancestries (African, Asian, Caucasian, 110 each) the selfie images of which were acquired under four different lighting conditions. As a second use case study, the facial signs of two cohorts of Chinese men (101 and 100, each), differently aged, regularly exposed to very different aerial urban pollution conditions (UP) were analysed by the same algorithm, selfies being taken under only one lighting condition.

RESULTS

-The new automatic grading system of facial signs suits well to men, showing comparable results than that the one dedicated to women and provides data in close agreement with experts' assessments. -In both cases (expert's or automatic methodology), the accuracy of the scores appeared ethnic-dependent. -The applied case confirmed previous results obtained clinically, that is, that many facial signs were found of an increased severity among men exposed to a severe urban pollution, as compared to those living in a less polluted city. -In both studies, statistical agreements between the automatic grading system and expert's assessments were reached. In some facial signs, the automatic grading system seems offering a slightly better accuracy than the assessments made by the experts.

CONCLUSION

Apart from some minor limitations, this A.I-based automatic grading system, free from human intervention, performed as well as the one previously developed in women, in close agreement with expert's assessments. In epidemiological studies, this system offers an easy, fast, affordable and confidential approach in the detection and quantification of male facial signs.

Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age and skin plumpness among differently aged Korean women

OBJECTIVE

To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age and plumpness on Korean women of different ages.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Photographs were taken of the faces of 112 Korean women of different ages (18-80 years) under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 19 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, Pigmentation disorders, Vascular disorders, and Cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 92 Korean women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to: (a) attribute on a 0-10 scale their perception of the skin plumpness (ie supple/hydrated/nourished) and (b) estimate the age of the subject.

RESULTS

With the exception of Vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The Wrinkles/Texture or Ptosis/Sagging showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found highly correlated, half of the subjects were judged older by 2-12 years. The facial signs/clusters were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of vascular disorders, size of pigmentary spots and cheek skin pores. The weights in perceived ages of Wrinkles/Texture and Ptosis/Sagging represent 37% each and Pigmentation disorders at 26%. Skin plumpness was logically found significantly anti-correlated with perceived age. If, surprisingly, Vascular disorders were found not impacting the plumpness aspect, Cheek skin pores presented a clear influence.

CONCLUSION

Within facial clinical clusters, Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, and Pigmentation disorders are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Korean women. The perception of a decreased skin plumpness is significantly associated with increased perceived age.

Changes in the eye contour signs due to age among Mexican women: Comparison with women of other ethnic origins

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the changes in certain ocular signs because of age, among Mexican women and to compare these with those previously obtained on women of other ethnicities.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Photographs were taken of the faces of 203 Mexican women of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed us to focus and define nine ocular signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. Hence, the same protocol, previously used on 3240 women of four other ethnic origins (Caucasian: 600; Chinese: 990; Japanese: 1010; Indian: 300; African: 340), allowed us to compare the results obtained on Mexican women.

RESULTS

The severity of crow's feet wrinkles for Mexican women shows a more intense progression with age than those of women from other ancestries. The lower eyelid wrinkles of Mexican women, that show weak or erratic changes with time, were however found to have higher and significant severity at a young age. Pigmentation disorders of their ocular area were found less pronounced as compared to those of Asian or Indian women. Eye bags were observed with similar slight changes in all five ancestries.

CONCLUSION

The present work confirms that the clinical signs of age for the female eye area develop differently depending on the ethnic origins of the volunteer.

A Split-Face Study Assessing the Clinical Benefit, Tolerability and Subject Satisfaction of a Dermocosmetic in Subjects with Rosacea Associated with Erythema and Sensitive Skin

Objective

This study assessed the efficacy and tolerability of M89 in patients with rosacea associated with erythema and sensitive skin.

Methods

Intra-individual study in a split-face design comparing after 30 days M89 twice daily and usual skin care in 20 adult subjects with rosacea and sensitive skin. M89 contains 89% Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) and 0.4% hyaluronic acid. It is hypoallergenic and contains no perfume and this convenes in rosacea. Contained minerals reinforce the natural defences of the skin in restoring the natural skin barrier, stimulating antioxidant activity and reducing inflammation, commonly observed in subjects with rosacea. Clinical evaluations included assessment of erythema, desquamation, papules and pustules, skin tightness, dryness, burning sensation, itching, stinging and stinging test as well as local tolerability. Instrumental evaluations included skin hydration and TEWL. Subject satisfaction was assessed at Days 15 and 30. Demodex density was assessed at Day 30.

Results

A significant superiority of M89 over the standard skin care was observed for erythema, skin tightness and dryness (all P≤0.05) as early as Day 15, the skin stinging test was significantly in favour of M89 (P<0.05 at Day 15 and P<0.01 at Day 30) and for skin hydration (P<0.0001) at Day 15 and 30 with no difference in mean Demodex density between M89 and usual skin care after 30 days. Tolerance was excellent and subject satisfaction very high.

Conclusion

Study results concerning M89 are encouraging for its use either alone or as an adjuvant daily skin care to topical medication in patients with persistent centrofacial erythema of rosacea with no more than 3 papules and pustules.

Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age, on a tired-look or a healthy glow among differently aged Chinese men

OBJECTIVE

To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age, tired-look and healthy glow on Chinese men of different ages.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Photographs were taken of the faces of 420 Chinese men of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 15 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely wrinkles/texture, ptosis/sagging, pigmentation disorders, vascular disorders and cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 80 Chinese women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to: (i) attribute on a 0-10 scale their perception of both the tired-look and healthy glow aspects and (ii) estimate the age of the subject.

RESULTS

With the exception of vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The ptosis/sagging or pigmentation disorders showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found to be closely correlated, the vast majority of subjects were judged older by 2-10 years. The changes in facial signs (and their related clusters) were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of skin spot density and cheek skin pores. Although the aspects of tired-look and healthy glow were logically found to be anti-correlated, tired-look was more statistically associated with perceived age for the five clusters. Signs of eye contour appear to be closely correlated with the perception of a tired-look.

CONCLUSION

Within facial clinical clusters, wrinkles/texture and ptosis/sagging are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Chinese men. Tired-look appears to be strongly associated with perceived age.

Evaluating the respective weights of some facial signs on perceived ages in differently aged women of five ethnic origins

BACKGROUND

New gratification assessments, after skincare routines or makeup products, could benefit from innovative methods that could predict the culturally based perceptions of age.

AIMS

To determine the facial signs that most influence the perception of age in women of five different ethnic ancestries, assessed by the same ethnical naïve panel.

PATIENTS/METHODS

The faces of 1351 women, differently aged (18-80 years), from five countries (China, France, India, Japan, and South Africa) were photographed under the same standardized conditions in the five countries. Fourteen to 24 facial signs (grouped under five clusters, ie, Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, Pigmentation disorders, Vascular disorders, and Cheeks skin pores) were focused, and their respective severities were graded using referential Skin Aging Atlases by the same panel of 15 experts and dermatologists. Five naïve panels, all comprising 100 local women, allowed to collect the perceived age, assessed from blind-coded full-face photographs.

RESULTS

Although perceived ages and real ages were found highly correlated, their differences vary according to ethnicities, particularly among a large part of Indian and South African women, judged older by about 5 and 7 years, respectively. Results show that the clusters of Wrinkles/Texture and Ptosis/Sagging are predominant factors taken into account in almost all ethnicities, albeit at various extents, reaching almost 100% in French women. Pigmentation disorders appear important secondary factors in Japanese, South African, and Indian women. Vascular disorders, of a difficult grading in darker skin tones, were found of some impact in Japanese and Chinese women. Cheek skin pores were of minor or nil weight in the attribution of age, at the exception of South African women. Regarding facial areas which drive aging perception, it seems the upper-half face has prevalence for Chinese and Japanese women whereas the lower-half face has major importance for South African women.

CONCLUSION

Facial traits are differently perceived as signs of aging according to un-separable ethnic ancestries and cultural factors.

Gender-related differences in the facial aging of Caucasian French subjects and their relations with perceived ages and tiredness

OBJECTIVES

(a) To assess and compare the changes in five facial signs with age between genders of Caucasian subjects and (b) to evaluate their links with perceived ages and tiredness.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Once zoomed from standardized digital photographs, five facial signs of 518 Caucasian French subjects of both genders and different ages (18-69 years) were graded by 15 experts, using a referential Skin Aging Atlas. A large naïve panel of 1000 French subjects (500 men and 500 women) was asked to attribute a perceived age and a degree of tiredness to 200 subjects (among the 518).

RESULTS

The severity of the facial signs increases with time at a linear-like rate. The changes in marionette lines significantly differ between genders, much more pronounced in women, and nasolabial fold was found more pronounced in men at older ages (>50 years). Before 50's, Forehead wrinkles present a slightly higher severity in men whereas at 50's women present more severe ptosis. Crow's feet wrinkles did not show significant changes. Perceived ages were found significantly correlated with the severities of the facial signs and the perception of tiredness was associated with perceived ages in men, but not in women older than 40 years. The gender-related perceptions from the naïve panel in both perceived ages and tiredness showed a low discrepancy. Interestingly, as for changes in facial signs, the upper-half face seems more affected for men and lower-half face for women; after 40 years, the naïve panel seems more focusing on the same areas to predict a perceived age.

CONCLUSION

As compared to the previous Chinese study, the present work reveals some slight ethnical-related differences, indicating that the facial signs of the lower face play a major role in the assessment of perceived age of both genders from different ethnicity.

Morphometric characteristics of feminine eyebrows: variations with ethnicities and age

OBJECTIVE

To explore some morphological features of the eyebrows of women of different ethnicities and ages.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Standard digital photographs of 3600 women of six ethnicities, aged 18-84 years, previously used to describe the morphology of the human eyes, allowed us to focus on their eyebrows, as supplementary and opportunistic study. Photographs of both eyebrows were analysed partly by manual markings and automatically by dedicated algorithms. Six parameters of the eyebrows were recorded: length, waviness/curvature, oblique aspect, size (vertical height), total surface and hair coverage (density).

RESULTS

Most criteria present ethnic specificities. These are: length (longer eyebrows of Indian, shorter among African women); waviness where the straighter eyebrows were found among Chinese and Japanese women. In general, the longer the eyebrows, the higher their waviness and vice versa. Thickness (or height) of the eyebrows presents a wide ethnic variability as well as hair coverage, where African women present the lower hair density, inversely to Indian women. The same holds true with regard to the total surface of eyebrows, of a large variability (by about four times). Some criteria appear more individually dependent than ethnic-specific, such as the oblique positioning, at the exception of Indian women with less oblique eyebrows. In all subjects, the criteria of both eyebrows (Left vs. Right) were found to be highly correlated (r > 0.7, P < 0.001).

CONCLUSION

The present investigation brings new findings on a scarcely studied facial element, the morphologic features of which are, for most, ethnic-dependent. As applied consequences, the results of the present work pave the road to better adapt adorning procedures of the eyebrows vis-à-vis ethnic and age specificities.

Assessing the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on some facial signs of differently-aged Chinese men

OBJECTIVE

To assess the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on the severities of some facial signs of Chinese men living in two close but differently polluted Chinese cities.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Standardized digital photographs were taken on 201 subjects from two cohorts of Chinese men (100 inhabitants of Baoding/very polluted and 101 inhabitants of Dalian/less polluted) differently aged (20-60 years) allowing a focus on 17 different facial signs. The latter were graded by 15 experts, using a clinical referential skin atlas. A questionnaire was filled by all subjects collecting their habits and uses with regard sun-exposures and skincare products. A naïve panel of 80 Chinese women, of comparable ages, attributed a perceived age to each subject under blind conditions.

RESULTS

These confirm previous data obtained on Chinese women, with a similar protocol, i.e. that some facial signs show an increased severity in the more polluted city. However, changes in facial signs, with age, are of a different pattern according to gender. In Chinese men, most signs show early onsets with however low age-related changes, inversely to those observed in women, at the exception of vascular disorders. Habits of sun-exposures and uses of skincare product were found totally similar in both cohorts, reinforcing the specific role of UP in the progressive changes of facial signs. Similar to the results previously obtained on Chinese women, men living in a more polluted city were judged older than those living in a less polluted aerial environment.

CONCLUSION

The present work confirms that a more severe UP increases the severities of some facial signs in Chinese men.

Distinct Habits Of Sun Exposures Lead To Different Impacts On Some Facial Signs Of Chinese Men Of Different Ages

Objective

To clinically evaluate the impacts of sun exposures on some facial signs of differently aged Chinese men with a distinct behavior vis à vis sun exposures.

Methods

Two comparable cohorts of Chinese men (aged 18-75 years old), living in two cities (Shanghai, Hong Kong) were created according to their usual behavior towards sun exposure and through their variable use(s) of a photo-protective product, i.e. non-sun-phobic (N = 127) and sun-phobic (N = 134). Standard photographs (full-face and 45° lateral) allowed to focus on 13 facial signs that were further graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using a referential Skin Aging Atlas. Absolute differences in the scores of each sign were used (non-sun-phobic minus sun-phobic), by age-classes, to better ascertain the impact of sun exposures and a photo-protecting product, when used.

Results

Most facial signs, particularly wrinkles and skin texture, differentiated the two cohorts. Some others showed some erratic changes with age, albeit more pronounced at older ages. In contrast with previous results obtained in Chinese women, the changes observed in men were not only of a lessened severity but were undetected at early ages (<30 years old). Overall, these different behaviors with regard to sun exposures led to significant differences in the facial signs of Chinese men. The latter can be illustrated by two virtual morphings that combine the impacts of both intrinsic and extrinsic aging processes.

Conclusion

The present work illustrates, for the first time, some specificities of the impacts of sun exposures on the facial skin of Chinese men, more expressed at older ages, inversely to those observed in Chinese women, occurring at younger ages.

A randomized study to evaluate the efficacy and effectiveness of two sunscreen formulations on Indian skin types IV and V with pigmentation irregularities

Background

Regular exposure to ultraviolet rays is high in India, where most Indians present Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV and V.

Aims

To evaluate the efficacy and compare the effectiveness of two sunscreen products on Indian skin types IV and V with pigmentation irregularities.

Methods

A randomized, uncontrolled and investigator-blinded, single-center study enrolled adult men and women (18-45 years) with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV (28° < individual typological angle <10°) and V (10° < individual typological angle < -30°) with pigmentary abnormalities seen on the face in adults (actinic lentigines and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation), who did not use sunscreens. Participants were randomized (1:1) to either of the two marketed sunscreen products, Product A (sun protection factor 50 PA+++) or Product B (sun protection factor 19 PA+++), applied twice daily before sun exposure for ≥2 h. Primary objectives aimed at assessing possible improvement in hyperpigmented spots and overall skin appearance after 12 weeks of use. Evaluation of skin radiance and skin color was done by means of L'Oréal color chart and colorimetric measurements (Chromameter^®).

Results

Among the 230 enrolled participants, 216 (93.91%) completed the study. The clinical assessment of the density of pigmented spots and skin radiance showed significant (P < 0.001) improvement in both groups during all visits. The qualitative (participant perception) and quantitative (Chromameter^®) data indicated improvement in pigmentation from Week 0 to Week 12. Both products were well-tolerated.

Limitations

The study was conducted over a rather short period of time (12 weeks) at a single location.

Conclusions

This is the first study conducted on Indian skin phototypes IV and V under real-life conditions. It demonstrated the effect of regular sunscreen usage in the prevention of certain signs of skin photoaging such as increased pigmentation or pigmentary abnormalities, thus providing support and assistance to clinicians in suggesting the use of efficient sun-screening products to patients.

Mapping, in vivo, the uniformity of two skin properties alongside the human face by a 3D virtual approach

OBJECTIVE

To determine the homogeneity in the distribution of two cutaneous functions (hydration and elasticity) along the entire human face.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The half faces (right or left, randomly chosen) of two groups of Caucasian women were measured on 24 different small sites (elasticity) and 41 others (hydration), by instruments of small-sized probes (Cutometer^® and Corneometer^® , respectively). Hydration of the face was recorded at different times (up to 24 h), post application of a highly hydrating product. The recorded values (left and right half faces) were further gathered and digitally positioned on a virtual feminine face and their intensity was illustrated through a colored white (lower values)-blue (higher values) scale.

RESULTS

The reconstitution of the mapping of the two measured parameters (from the left and right sides of different subjects), shows a perfect symmetry vis à vis the nose axis. However, both parameters present slightly variable but significant values along the human face. Sites from the temple are less elastic than chin or forehead. The upper and lower parts of the forehead show slight disparities in their elasticity values. Cheeks are significantly less prone at retaining their imparted hydration status (lost 2 h after application of a hydrating product) as compared to sub-ocular regions or chin that retain their hydration up to 24 h. Attempts to establish a mutual relationship between the two skin properties unsurprisingly failed.

CONCLUSION

The two studied skin properties show a slight but highly symmetric disparity along the entire human face.

Developing a new device for continuously recording, in vivo, the excretion rate of sweat (perspiration) in humans

BACKGROUND

Some methodologies used for evaluating sweat production and antiperspirants are of a stationary aspect, that is, most often performed under warm (38°C) but resting conditions in a rather short period of time. The aim is to develop an electronic sensor apt at continuously recording sweat excretion, in vivo, during physical exercises, exposure to differently heated environments, or any other stimuli that may provoke sweat excretion.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

A sensor (20 cm² ) is wrapped under a double-layered textile pad. Fixed onto the armpits, these two arrays of electrodes are connected to electronic system through an analog multiplexer. A microcontroller is used to permanently record changes in the conductance between two electrodes during exposure of subjects to different sweat-inducing conditions or to assess the efficacy of applied aluminum hydrochloride (ACH)-based roll-ons at two concentrations (5% and 15%).

RESULTS

In vitro calibration, using a NaCl 0.5% solution, allows changes in mV to be related with progressively increased volumes. In vivo, results show that casual physical exercise leads to sweat excretions much higher than in warm environment (37 or 45°C). Only, an exposure to a 50°C environment induced comparable sweat excretion. In this condition, sweat excretions were found similar in both armpits and both genders. Decreased sweat excretions were recorded following applications of ACH, with a dose effect.

CONCLUSION

Developing phases of this new approach indicate that usual method or guidelines used to determine sweat excretions in vivo do not reflect true energy expenditure processes. As a consequence, they probably over-estimate the efficacy of antiperspirant agents or formulae.