Applications for Marine Resources in Cosmetics

Seaweeds Compounds: An Ecosustainable Source of Cosmetic Ingredients?

Seaweed-based cosmetics are being gradually used by consumers as a substitute of synthetic equivalent products. These seaweed-based products normally contain purified compounds or extracts with several compounds. Several seaweeds’ molecules already demonstrated a high potential as a cosmetic active ingredient (such as, mycosporine-like amino acids, fucoidan, pigments, phenolic compounds) or as a key element for the products consistency (agar, alginate, carrageenan). Moreover, seaweeds’ compounds present important qualities for cosmetic application, such as low cytotoxicity and low allergens content. However, seaweeds’ biochemical profile can be variable, and the extraction methods can cause the loss of some of the biomolecules. This review gives a general look at the seaweed cosmetics benefits and its current application in the cosmetic industry. Moreover, it focuses on the ecological and sustainable scope of seaweed exploitation to guarantee a safe source of ingredients for the cosmetic industry and consumers.

The Evolution Road of Seaweed Aquaculture: Cultivation Technologies and the Industry 4.0

Seaweeds (marine macroalgae) are autotrophic organisms capable of producing many compounds of interest. For a long time, seaweeds have been seen as a great nutritional resource, primarily in Asian countries to later gain importance in Europe and South America, as well as in North America and Australia. It has been reported that edible seaweeds are rich in proteins, lipids and dietary fibers. Moreover, they have plenty of bioactive molecules that can be applied in nutraceutical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic areas. There are historical registers of harvest and cultivation of seaweeds but with the increment of the studies of seaweeds and their valuable compounds, their aquaculture has increased. The methodology of cultivation varies from onshore to offshore. Seaweeds can also be part of integrated multi-trophic aquaculture (IMTA), which has great opportunities but is also very challenging to the farmers. This multidisciplinary field applied to the seaweed aquaculture is very promising to improve the methods and techniques; this area is developed under the denominated industry 4.0.

Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Marine-Derived Compounds with Potential Use as Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs).

In vitro protective effects of marine-derived Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extract on H2O2-stressed primary human fibroblasts

Nowadays, there is a huge interest in natural products obtained from marine organisms that can promote human health.The aim of the present study is to evaluate for the first time, the in vitro effects of marine Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extract against oxidative stress in human fibroblasts, and its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. The strain was isolated from the Mediterranean Sea star, Echinaster sepositus, and identified according to ITS molecular sequence homology as a member of Aspergillus section versicolores.To gain insight on the bioactivity underpinning the effects of TM124-S4 extract on oxidative stress, we examined a panel of a hundred genes as well as cell viability. Initially, Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 promoted cell viability.The change in gene transcripts revealed that Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extracts exhibited skin protection properties by mediating cell proliferation (EPS8, GDF15, CASP7, VEGFA), antioxidant response (CAT, SOD1, TXN, GPX1), skin hydration (CD44, CRABP2, SERPINE) and DNA repair (PCNA, P21). The extract also modulated the expression of genes involved in skin pigmentation and aging (TYR, FOXO3).These findings indicate that Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extract possesses significant in-vitro skin protection activity against induced oxidative stress.Furthermore, new insights are provided into the beneficial role of fungal bioactive compounds in skin related research.

Marine Bacteria versus Microalgae: Who Is the Best for Biotechnological Production of Bioactive Compounds with Antioxidant Properties and Other Biological Applications?

Natural bioactive compounds with antioxidant activity play remarkable roles in the prevention of reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation. ROS, which are formed by different pathways, have various pathological influences such as DNA damage, carcinogenesis, and cellular degeneration. Incremental demands have prompted the search for newer and alternative resources of natural bioactive compounds with antioxidant properties. The marine environment encompasses almost three-quarters of our planet and is home to many eukaryotic and prokaryotic microorganisms. Because of extreme physical and chemical conditions, the marine environment is a rich source of chemical and biological diversity, and marine microorganisms have high potential as a source of commercially interesting compounds with various pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, and cosmeceutical applications. Bacteria and microalgae are the most important producers of valuable molecules including antioxidant enzymes (such as superoxide dismutase and catalase) and antioxidant substances (such as carotenoids, exopolysaccharides, and bioactive peptides) with various valuable biological properties and applications. Here, we review the current knowledge of these bioactive compounds while highlighting their antioxidant properties, production yield, health-related benefits, and potential applications in various biological and industrial fields.

Skin Transcriptome of Middle-Aged Women Supplemented With Natural Herbo-mineral Shilajit Shows Induction of Microvascular and Extracellular Matrix Mechanisms

Objective: Shilajit is a pale-brown to blackish-brown organic mineral substance available from Himalayan rocks. We demonstrated that in type I obese humans, shilajit supplementation significantly upregulated extracellular matrix (ECM)-related genes in the skeletal muscle. Such an effect was highly synergistic with exercise. The present study (clinicaltrials.gov NCT02762032) aimed to evaluate the effects of shilajit supplementation on skin gene expression profile and microperfusion in healthy adult females. Methods: The study design comprised six total study visits including a baseline visit (V1) and a final 14-week visit (V6) following oral shilajit supplementation (125 or 250 mg bid). A skin biopsy of the left inner upper arm of each subject was collected at visit 2 and visit 6 for gene expression profiling using Affymetrix Clariom™ D Assay. Skin perfusion was determined by MATLAB processing of dermascopic images. Transcriptome data were normalized and subjected to statistical analysis. The differentially regulated genes were subjected to Ingenuity Pathway Analysis (IPA®). The expression of the differentially regulated genes identified by IPA® were verified using real-time polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR). Results: Supplementation with shilajit for 14 weeks was not associated with any reported adverse effect within this period. At a higher dose (250 mg bid), shilajit improved skin perfusion when compared to baseline or the placebo. Pathway analysis identified shilajit-inducible genes relevant to endothelial cell migration, growth of blood vessels, and ECM which were validated by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) analysis. Conclusions: This work provides maiden evidence demonstrating that oral shilajit supplementation in adult healthy women induced genes relevant to endothelial cell migration and growth of blood vessels. Shilajit supplementation improved skin microperfusion.

A New Tyrosinase Inhibitor from the Red Alga Symphyocladia latiuscula (Harvey) Yamada (Rhodomelaceae)

A marine red alga, Symphyocladia latiuscula (Harvey) Yamada (Rhodomelaceae), is a rich source of bromophenols with a wide array of biological activities. This study investigates the anti-tyrosinase activity of the alga. Moderate activity was demonstrated by the methanol extract of S. latiuscula, and subsequent column chromatography identified three bromophenols: 2,3,6-tribromo-4,5-dihydroxybenzyl methyl alcohol (1), 2,3,6-tribromo-4,5-dihydroxybenzyl methyl ether (2), and bis-(2,3,6-tribromo-4,5-dihydroxybenzyl methyl ether) (3). Bromophenols 1 and 3 exhibited potent competitive tyrosinase inhibitory activity against l-tyrosine substrates, with IC₅₀ values of 10.78 ± 0.19 and 2.92 ± 0.04 μM, respectively. Against substrate l-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (l-DOPA), compounds 1 and 3 demonstrated moderate activity, while 2 showed no observable effect. The experimental data were verified by a molecular docking study that found catalytic hydrogen and halogen interactions were responsible for the activity. In addition, compounds 1 and 3 exhibited dose-dependent inhibitory effects in melanin and intracellular tyrosinase levels in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 melanoma cells. Compounds 3 and 1 were the most effective tyrosinase inhibitors. In addition, increasing the bromine group number increased the mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity.

Microalgae Characterization for Consolidated and New Application in Human Food, Animal Feed and Nutraceuticals

The exploration of new food sources and natural products is the result of the increase in world population as well as the need for a healthier diet; in this context, microalgae are undoubtedly an interesting solution. With the intent to enhance their value in new commercial applications, this paper aims to characterize microalgae that have already been recognized as safe or authorized as additives for humans and animals (Chlorella vulgaris, Arthrospira platensis, Haematococcus pluvialis, Dunaliella salina) as well as those that have not yet been marketed (Scenedesmus almeriensis and Nannocholoropsis sp.). In this scope, the content of proteins, carbohydrates, lipids, total dietary fiber, humidity, ash, and carotenoids has been measured via standard methods. In addition, individual carotenoids (beta-carotene, astaxanthin, and lutein) as well as individual saturated, monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated fatty acids have been identified and quantified chromatographically. The results confirm the prerogative of some species to produce certain products such as carotenoids, polyunsaturated fatty acids, and proteins, but also show how their cellular content is rich and diverse. H. pluvialis green and red phases, and Nannochloropsis sp., in addition to producing astaxanthin and omega-3, contain about 25⁻33% w/w proteins on a dry basis. D. salina is rich in beta-carotene (3.45% w/w on a dry basis), S. Almeriensis is a source of lutein (0.30% w/w on a dry basis), and the C. vulgaris species is a protein-based microalgae (45% w/w on a dry basis). All, however, can also produce important fatty acids such as palmitic acid, γ-linolenic acid, and oleic acid. Considering their varied composition, these microalgae can find applications in multiple sectors. This is true for microalgae already on the market as well as for promising new sources of bioproducts such as S. almeriensis and Nannochloropsis sp.

Plant cell culture as emerging technology for production of active cosmetic ingredients

Plants have always been the main source for active cosmetic ingredients, having proven health beneficial effects on human, such as anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV-protective, anti-cancer, anti-wrinkle, skin soothing, whitening, moisturizing, etc. Extracts from herbal, aromatic and/or medicinal plants have been widely used as effective active ingredients in cosmeceuticals or nutricosmetics, especially in products for topical application and skin-care formulations. However, over the past decade, there has been an increasing interest to plant cell culture - derived active cosmetic ingredients. These are "new generation" of high quality natural products, produced by the modern plan biotechnology methods, which usually showed stronger activities than the plant extracts obtained by the classical methods. In this review, the advantages and the current progress in plant cell culture technology for the production of active cosmetic ingredients have been summarized, and discussed in details within a presented case study for calendula stem cell product development.

Hydration in aqueous solutions of ectoine and hydroxyectoine

We explore the influence of the two osmolytes ectoine and hydroxyectoine on the structure of pure water and aqueous NaCl solutions using non-resonant X-ray Raman scattering spectroscopy at the oxygen K-edge.