Skin-Whitening and Anti-Wrinkle Effects of Bioactive Compounds Isolated from Peanut Shell Using Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction

Response surface methodology was employed to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) conditions for simultaneous optimization of dependent variables, including DPPH radical scavenging activity (RSA), tyrosinase activity inhibition (TAI), and collagenase activity inhibition (CAI) of peanut shell extracts. The effects of the main variables including extraction time (5.0~55.0 min, X₁), extraction temperature (26.0~94.0 °C, X₂), and ethanol concentration (0.0%~99.5%, X₃) were optimized. Based on experimental values from each condition, quadratic regression models were derived for the prediction of optimum conditions. The coefficient of determination (R²) of the independent variable was in the range of 0.89~0.96, which demonstrates that the regression model is suitable for the prediction. In predicting optimal UAE conditions based on the superimposing method, extraction time of 31.2 min, extraction temperature of 36.6 °C, and ethanol concentration of 93.2% were identified. Under these conditions, RSA of 74.9%, TAI of 50.6%, and CAI of 86.8% were predicted, showing good agreement with the experimental values. A reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction showed that peanut shell extract decreased mRNA levels of tyrosinase-related protein-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-3 genes in B16-F0 cell. Therefore, we identified the skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects of peanut shell extracts at protein as well as gene expression levels, and the results show that peanut shell is an effective cosmetic material for skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects. Based on this study, peanut shell, which was considered a byproduct, can be used for the development of healthy foods, medicines, and cosmetics.

The effect of isolates from Cassipourea flanaganii (Schinz) alston, a plant used as a skin lightning agent, on melanin production and tyrosinase inhibition

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The Zulu and Xhosa people of South Africa use the stem bark of Cassipourea flanaganii as a skin-lightning cosmetic.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To isolate and identify compounds responsible for the skin lightning properties from the stem bark of Cassipourea flanaganii and to evaluate their cytotoxicity towards skin cells.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Extracts from the stem bark of Cassipourea flanaganii were isolated using chromatographic methods and structures were determined using NMR, IR and MS analysis. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity and the ability to inhibit the production of melanin were determined using human primary epidermal melanocyte cells. Cytoxicity was established using the same melanocytes and a neutral red assay.

RESULTS

One previously undescribed compound, ent-atis-16-en-19-al (1) along with the known ent-atis-16-en-19-oic acid (2), ent-atis-16-en-19-ol (3), ent-kaur-16-en-19-oic acid (4), ent-kaur-16-en-19-al (5), ent-manoyl oxide (6), guinesine A (7), guinesine B (8), guinesine C (9), lichenxanthone (10), 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethyl benzoic acid methyl ester (11), lynoside (12), lupeol (13), β-amyrin (14), docosyl ferulate (15), stigmasterol, sitosterol and sitosterol-O-glucoside were isolated in this investigation. An impure fraction containing compound 3 was acetylated to obtain 19-acetoxy-ent-atis-16-ene (3a). Compounds 10 and 11 are usually isolated from lichen, hence they are possible contaminants of lichen harvested with the bark. Compounds 1, 3a, 5-14 were not significantly cytotoxic to the primary epidermal melanocyte cells (P > 0.05) when compared to the negative and positive controls (DMSO, 0.1% and hydrogen peroxide, 30 wt% in water). Inhibition of tyrosinase was significantly greater with respect to the negative control (P < 0.001) for compounds 3a, 5-8 and 9-10 at 10 μM and for compounds 5-8 and 9-10 at 100 μM. Compared to hydroquinone (the positive control) at 10 μM, the level of inhibition was comparable or to that of compounds 3a, 5, 6, and 8-10 at 10 μM, with 9 and 10 showing a greater level of inhibition. Inhibition of melanin was both concentration and time dependent for all compounds tested with higher melanin content at 24 h compared to 48 h s and at 10 mM compared to100 mM at both time points; melanin content was significantly lower for hydroquinone at both time points and concentrations.

CONCLUSIONS

Compounds 1, 5-14, isolated from Cassipourea flanaganii and the derivative 3a showed low cytotoxicity. All compounds had a clear time and concentration dependent effect on melanin content which did not appear to be dependent on their inhibition of tyrosinase.

Skin-whitening mechanism of cumin (Cuminum cyminum L.) extract

Skin-whitening effect is closely linked with the melanogenesis inhibitory activity and free radical scavenging capacity. The purpose of the present study was to evaluate the skin-whitening effect of cumin (Cuminum cyminum L.) extract. The whitening activity was evaluated by cell-free mushroom tyrosinase assay, free radical scavenging assay, cell viability assay, cellular tyrosinase assay and melanin content assay using B16F10 murine melanoma cells. The results showed that cumin extract exhibited concentration-dependent inhibitory effect on both monophenolase and diphenolase activities of mushroom tyrosinase (IC₅₀ values of 1.027mg/mL and 0.977mg/mL, respectively). Kinetic study on diphenolase showed that the cumin extract was a reversible mixed-type inhibitor, and the inhibition constant (KI) was determined to be 0.62mg/mL. In addition, cumin extract significantly suppressed melanin production and cellular tyrosinase activity of B16F10 melanoma cells in a concentration and time dependent manner without cytotoxicity. Moreover, cumin extract exerted strong scavenging capacity on DPPH, hydroxyl and superoxide anion radicals. Taken together, these results strongly suggest that cumin is a potential skin-whitening agent for the cosmetic industry.

Ishophloroglucin A Isolated from Ishige okamurae Suppresses Melanogenesis Induced by α-MSH: In Vitro and In Vivo

Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol (DPHC) isolated from Ishige okamurae (IO) showed potential whitening effects against UV-B radiation. However, the components of IO as well as their molecular mechanism against α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) have not yet been investigated. Thus, this study aimed to investigate the inhibitory effects of Ishophloroglucin A (IPA), a phlorotannin isolated from brown algae IO, and its crude extract (IOE), in melanogenesis in vivo in an α-MSH-induced zebrafish model and in B16F10 melanoma cells in vitro. Molecular docking studies of the phlorotannins were carried out to determine their inhibitory effects and to elucidate their mode of interaction with tyrosinase, a glycoprotein related to melanogenesis. In addition, morphological changes and melanin content decreased in the α-MSH-induced zebrafish model after IPA and IOE treatment. Furthermore, Western blotting results revealed that IPA upregulated the extracellular related protein expression in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. Hence, these results suggest that IPA isolated from IOE has a potential for use in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

Formulation and evaluation of antioxidant and antityrosinase activity of Polygonum amplexicaule herbal gel

Medicinal plants are long been used for pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. Among medicinal plants, Polygonum amplexicaule of family polygonaceae has traditional use in medicines and skin care. P. amplexicaule belongs to genus Polygonum that contains several important phytochemicals and considered as a rich source of antioxidants. The present study was designed to formulate herbal gel containing P. amplexicaule extract and evaluate its different physical properties as well as antioxidants and antityrosinase activities. Chitosan gel base was used as gelling agent and different gel formulations were prepared by different concentrations of extracts and polymers. Physical properties like pH, colour, odour, appearance and homogeneity, spreadability, extrudability and stability were optimized and analysed. A stable gel formulation containing 1% chitosan gel base and 5% plant extract was prepared that showed good appearance and homogeneity, easily spread ability and excellent extrudability. This gel formulation was tested for antioxidant and skin whitening properties by DPPH free radical scavenging assay and tyrosinase inhibition assay respectively and ascorbic acid was used as reference standard. DPPH scavenging activity with an IC₅₀ value of 0.446 mg/mL and tyrosinase inhibition activity with an IC₅₀ value of 0.805 mg/mL was observed and results indicated that this herbal gel formulation has a good potential for cosmetic use.

Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Poria cocos Wolf extracts represses pigmentation in vitro and in vivo

In skin, melanocytes determine skin color using melanogenesis, which induces protective mechanism to oxidative stress and UV damage. However, when melanin is excessive produced by the various stimulus, the accumulated melanin induces hyperpigmentation disease such as melasma, freckles, Melanism ware induced. Therefore, it is implicated to finding potential agents for whitening to be used in cosmetic products. In our present study, we show that Poria cocos Wolf extracts decreased melanin synthesis in B16F10. And then this inhibition of melanogenesis was provoked by regulation of tyrosinase activity and tyrosinase and MITF expression. Moreover, Poria cocos Wolf extracts contained cream improved skin tone using increase of bright value. Overall, these results provide evidence to potential agent for whitening to be used in cosmetic products.

The depigmenting effect of natural resorcinol type polyphenols Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T from the roots of morus australis

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Morus australis, one of the major Morus species growing in East Asia, is rich in phenolic compounds. The extract of M. australis has been used as skin whitening components for a long period. The action mechanisms of its principal constituents are still unclear. This study aims to evaluate the skin lightening effects of phenolic compounds extracted from the root of M. australis in different melanocyte systems and artificial skin models.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The depigmenting effect of resorcinol type polyphenols (RTPs) from the root extract of M. australis was evaluated in murine b16 and melan-a cell lines using a combined sulforhodamine B assay. Tyrosinase activity and the expression of melanogenesis proteins were evaluated for the mechanism study. The artificial skin model is used as a replacement of the animal test.

RESULTS

Only Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T were found to have significant depigmenting effects in both murine b16 and melan-a cell lines. Their depigmenting mechanisms are slightly different in the two cell systems. In b16 cells, Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T, together with the other two RTPs, induced post-transcriptional degradations of MITF without suppressing its mRNA expression, leading to significant decreases of TRP-1 and TRP-2 production. While in melan-a cells, the levels of tyrosinase families were suppressed via MITF downregulation at both transcription and translation level by RTPs, with Kuwanon O inducing the greatest suppression. Further evaluations in artificial skin model demonstrated the outstanding depigmenting effects of Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T.

CONCLUSIONS

Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T from M.australis root extract are two potential skin whitening ingredients. To screen resorcinol flavonone derivatives with an isoprenyl group in the Diels-Alder substituent might be an option for the search of potent hypopigmenting agents from plants.

Optimization of extraction conditions for osthol, a melanogenesis inhibitor from Cnidium monnieri fruits

CONTEXT

Coumarin derivatives have been reported to inhibit melanin biosynthesis.

OBJECTIVE

The melanogenesis inhibitory activity of osthol, a major coumarin of the fruits of Cnidium monnieri Cusson (Umbelliferae), and optimized extraction conditions for the maximum yield from the isolation of osthol from C. monnieri fruits were investigated.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

B16F10 melanomas were treated with osthol at concentration of 1, 3, and 10 μM for 72 h. The expression of melanogenesis genes, such as tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 was also assessed. For optimization, extraction factors such as extraction solvent, extraction time, and sample/solvent ratio were tested and optimized for maximum yield of osthol using response surface methodology with the Box-Behnken design (BBD).

RESULTS

Osthol inhibits melanin content in B16F10 melanoma cells with an IC50 value of 4.9 μM. The melanogenesis inhibitory activity of osthol was achieved not by direct inhibition of tyrosinase activity but by inhibiting melanogenic enzyme expressions, such as tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2. The optimal condition was obtained as a sample/solvent ratio, 1500 mg/10 ml; an extraction time 30.3 min; and a methanol concentration of 97.7%. The osthol yield under optimal conditions was found to be 15.0 mg/g dried samples, which were well matched with the predicted value of 14.9 mg/g dried samples.

CONCLUSION

These results will provide useful information about optimized extraction conditions for the development of osthol as cosmetic therapeutics to reduce skin hyperpigmentation.

Inhibition of melanin content by Punicalagins in the super fruit pomegranate (Punica granatum)

Current efforts to develop effective skin lightening products through the inhibition of melanin production have focused on compounds that inhibit the function and activity of tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in the melanin biosynthesis pathway. Synthetic tyrosinase inhibitors, such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, and arbutin, have been reported to cause skin irritation or acute dermatitis, raising concerns about the safety of these compounds. As a result, there is a need for safe natural ingredients that show effective skin lightening. In this report, we have identified a natural ingredient, pomegranate fruit extract, that inhibits melanin production in melanocytes and shows potential for use as a cosmetic skin lightening agent. In addition, we have identified a polyphenolic compound, punicalagins, as the active melanin inhibitor in pomegranate fruit extract based on its capacity to directly inhibit melanin production.

Acanthoic acid inhibits melanogenesis through tyrosinase downregulation and melanogenic gene expression in B16 melanoma cells

The aim of this study was to investigate the in vitro inhibitory effects of acanthoic acid (ACAN), isolated from Acanthopanax koreanum, on melanogenesis and its related enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2 in B16 melanoma cells. We found that ACAN significantly attenuates melanin synthesis and reduces the activity of intracellular tyrosinase, the rate-limiting melanogenic enzyme. Western blot analysis showed that ACAN also decreases tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 protein expression. In addition, ACAN significantly decreased the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), a key regulator of melanogenesis. These results indicate that ACAN effectively inhibits melanin biosynthesis through down-regulation of MITF and thus could be useful as a new skin-whitening agent.

Octaphlorethol A isolated from Ishige foliacea inhibits α-MSH-stimulated induced melanogenesis via ERK pathway in B16F10 melanoma cells

In this study, the potent skin-whitening effects of Octaphlorethol A (OPA) isolated from Ishige foliacea was investigated through inhibitory effect of melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) induced B16F10 melanoma cells. OPA markedly inhibited melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in a concentration-dependent manner. We also found that OPA decreased microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 and -2 (TRP-1 and TRP-2) protein expressions. Moreover, OPA reduces p38 MAPK protein levels and activates extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and c-jun N-terminal kinases (JNKs) protein expressions in B16F10 cells. A specific ERK inhibitor PD98059 significantly blocks OPA-inhibited melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity, whereas a p38MAP and JNK inhibitor had no effect. These findings provide evidence demonstrating that the anti-melanogenic effect of OPA is mediated through the activation of ERK signal pathway in B16F10 cells. These results indicate that OPA has the potential to be used as a melanogenesis inhibitor in the food and cosmetics industry.

Arbutin production via biotransformation of hydroquinone in in vitro cultures of Aronia melanocarpa (Michx.) Elliott

Arbutin (hydroquinone β-D-glucoside) is a compound of plant origin possessing valuable therapeutic (urinary tract disinfection) and cosmetic (skin whitening) properties, which can be obtained from in vitro cultures of plants belonging to different taxa via biotransformation of exogenously supplemented hydroquinone. Agitating cultures of Aronia melanocarpa were maintained on the Murashige and Skoog medium containing growth regulators: the cytokinin - BAP (6-benzylaminopurine), 2 mg/l and the auxin NAA (α-naphthaleneacetic acid), 2 mg/l. The biomass was cultured for 2 weeks and then hydroquinone was supplemented at the following doses: 96, 144, 192, 288 and 384 mg/l either undivided or divided into two or three portions added at 24-hour intervals. The content of the reaction product - arbutin, was determined using an HPLC method in methanolic extracts from biomass and lyophilized medium samples collected 24 hours after the addition of the last precursor dose. The total amounts of arbutin were very diverse, from 2.71 to 8.27 g/100g d.w. The production of arbutin rose with increasing hydroquinone concentration. The maximum content of the product was observed after hydroquinone addition at 384 mg/l divided into two portions. Biotransformation efficiency also varied widely, ranging from 37.04% do 73.80%. The identity of the product - arbutin, after its isolation and purification was confirmed by spectral analysis ((1)H-NMR spectrum). The maximum amount of arbutin obtained was higher than that required by the latest 9(th) Edition of the Polish Pharmacopoeia and by the newest 8th Edithion of European Pharmacopoeia for Uvae ursi folium (7.0 g/100g d.w.), and is interesting from practical point of view.