Natural and sun-induced aging of human skin

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.

Molecular mechanisms of Marine-Derived Natural Compounds as photoprotective strategies

Excessive exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) causes oxidative stress, inflammation, immunosuppression, apoptosis, and changes in the extracellular matrix, which lead to the development of photoaging and photodamage of skin. At the molecular level, these pathological changes are mainly caused by the activation of related protein kinases and downstream transcription pathways, the increase of matrix metalloproteinase, the formation of reactive oxygen species, and the combined action of cytokines and inflammatory mediators. At present, the photostability, toxicity, and damage to marine ecosystems of most sun protection products in the market have affected their efficacy and safety. Another way is to use natural products produced by various marine species. Marine organisms have evolved a variety of molecular strategies to protect themselves from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, and their unique chemicals have attracted more and more attention in the research of photoprotection and photoaging resistance. This article provides an extensive description of the recent literature on the potential of Marine-Derived Natural Compounds (MDNCs) as photoprotective and photoprotective agents. It reviews the positive effects of MDNCs in counteracting UV-induced oxidative stress, inflammation, DNA damage, apoptosis, immunosuppression, and extracellular matrix degradation. Some MDNCs have the potential to develop feasible solutions for related phenomena, such as photoaging and photodamage caused by UVR.

Diagnostic and Therapeutic Roles of Extracellular Vesicles in Aging-Related Diseases

Aging shows a decline in overall physical function, and cellular senescence is the powerful catalyst leading to aging. Considering that aging will be accompanied with the emergence of various aging-related diseases, research on new antiaging drugs is still valuable. Extracellular vesicles (EVs), as tools for intercellular communication, are important components of the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), and they can play pathological roles in the process of cellular senescence. In addition, EVs are similar to their original cells in functions. Therefore, EVs derived from pathological tissues or body fluids may be closely related to the progression of diseases and become potential biomarkers, while those from healthy cells may have therapeutic effects. Moreover, EVs are satisfactory drug carriers. At present, numerous studies have supported the idea that engineered EVs could improve drug targeting ability and utilization efficiency. Here, we summarize the characteristics of EVs and cellular senescence and focus on the diagnostic and therapeutic potential of EVs in various aging-related diseases, including Alzheimer disease, osteoporosis, cardiovascular disease, diabetes mellitus and its complications, and skin aging.

Genome-Wide Association Study for Screening and Identifying Potential Shin Color Loci in Ducks

Shin color diversity is a widespread phenomenon in birds. In this study, ducks were assessed to identify candidate genes for yellow, black, and spotted tibiae. For this purpose, we performed whole-genome resequencing of an F2 population consisting of 275 ducks crossed between Runzhou crested-white ducks and Cherry Valley ducks. We obtained 12.6 Mb of single nucleotide polymorphism (SNP) data, and the three shin colors were subsequently genotyped. Genome-wide association studies (GWASs) were performed to identify candidate and potential SNPs for the three shin colors. According to the results, 2947 and 3451 significant SNPs were associated with black and yellow shins, respectively, and six potential SNPs were associated with spotted shins. Based on the SNP annotations, the MITF, EDNRB2, POU family members, and the SLC superfamily were the candidate genes regulating pigmentation. In addition, the isoforms of EDNRB2, TYR, TYRP1, and MITF-M were significantly different between the black and yellow tibiae. MITF and EDNRB2 may have synergistic roles in the regulation of melanin synthesis, and their mutations may lead to phenotypic differences in the melanin deposition between individuals. This study provides new insights into the genetic factors that may influence tibia color diversity in birds.

Human Umbilical Cord-Derived Mesenchymal Stem Cells Ameliorate Skin Aging of Nude Mice Through Autophagy-Mediated Anti-Senescent Mechanism

Skin aging is a currently irreversible process, affected by increased oxidative stress, activated cellular senescence, and lacked regeneration of the dermal layer. Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), such as human umbilical cord-derived MSCs (hucMSCs), have pro-regeneration and anti-aging potencies. To explore whether hucMSCs can be used to treat skin aging, this study employed skin-aging model of nude mice to conduct in vivo assays, including biochemical analysis of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and malondialdehyde (MDA), gross observation, histopathological observation, and immunohistochemical analysis. To clarify how hucMSCs work on skin aging, this study employed skin-aging model of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) to conduct in vitro assays by applying conditional medium of hucMSCs (CMM), including wound healing assay, senescence staining, flow cytometric oxidative detection, real time PCR, and western blot analysis. The in vivo data demonstrated that hucMSCs dose-dependently removed wrinkles, smoothed skin texture, and increased dermal thickness and collagen production of aged skin by reversing SOD and MDA levels and up-regulating Col-1 and VEGF expressions, indicating anti-oxidative and pro-regenerative effects against skin aging. The in vitro data revealed that hucMSCs significantly reversed the senescence of HDFs by promoting cell migration, inhibiting ROS production, and restoring the overexpressions of oxidative and senescent markers through paracrine mode of action, and the paracrine mechanism was mediated by the inhibition of autophagy. This study provided novel knowledge regarding the anti-aging efficacy and paracrine mechanism of hucMSCs on skin, making hucMSCs-based therapy a promising regime for skin aging treatment.

Genome-Wide Analysis Identifies Candidate Genes Encoding Beak Color of Duck

Beak color diversity is a broadly occurring phenomenon in birds. Here, we used ducks to identify candidate genes for yellow, black, and spotted beaks. For this, an F₂ population consisting of 275 ducks was genotyped using whole genome resequencing containing 12.6 M single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) and three beak colors. Genome-wide association studies (GWAS) was used to identify the candidate and potential SNPs for three beak colors in ducks (yellow, spotted, and black). The results showed that 2753 significant SNPs were associated with black beaks, 7462 with yellow, and 17 potential SNPs with spotted beaks. Based on SNP annotation, MITF, EDNRB2, members of the POU family, and the SLC superfamily were the candidate genes regulating pigmentation. Meanwhile, isoforms MITF-M and EDNRB2 were significantly different between black and yellow beaks. MITF and EDNRB2 likely play a synergistic role in the regulation of melanin synthesis, and their mutations contribute to phenotypic differences in beak melanin deposition among individuals. This study provides new insights into genetic factors that may influence the diversity of beak color.

Antiaging Mechanism of Natural Compounds: Effects on Autophagy and Oxidative Stress

Aging is a natural biological process that manifests as the progressive loss of function in cells, tissues, and organs. Because mechanisms that are meant to promote cellular longevity tend to decrease in effectiveness with age, it is no surprise that aging presents as a major risk factor for many diseases such as cardiovascular disease, neurodegenerative disorders, cancer, and diabetes. Oxidative stress, an imbalance between the intracellular antioxidant and overproduction of reactive oxygen species, is known to promote the aging process. Autophagy, a major pathway for protein turnover, is considered as one of the hallmarks of aging. Given the progressive physiologic degeneration and increased risk for disease that accompanies aging, many studies have attempted to discover new compounds that may aid in the reversal of the aging process. Here, we summarize the antiaging mechanism of natural or naturally derived synthetic compounds involving oxidative stress and autophagy. These compounds include: 2-cyano-3,12-dioxoolean-1,9-dien-28-oic acid (CDDO) derivatives (synthetic triterpenoids derived from naturally occurring oleanolic acid), caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE, the active ingredient in honey bee propolis), xanthohumol (a prenylated flavonoid identified in the hops plant), guggulsterone (a plant steroid found in the resin of the guggul plant), resveratrol (a natural phenol abundantly found in grape), and sulforaphane (a sulfur-containing compound found in cruciferous vegetables).

Urolithin A protects human dermal fibroblasts from UVA-induced photoaging through NRF2 activation and mitophagy

Photoaging, caused by exposure to sunlight and especially UVA, has been identified as one of the culprits for age-related skin deterioration. Here, we initially demonstrated that urolithin A (UroA), a metabolite derived from intestine microflora, possessed sufficient photoprotective capacity and attenuated UVA-induced senescent phenotypes in human fibroblasts, such as growth inhibition, senescence-associated β-galactosidase activity, breakdown of extracellular matrix, synthesis of senescence-associated secretory phenotypes and cell cycle arrest. Furthermore, UroA lessened the accumulation of intracellular reactive oxygen species, which promoted the phosphorylation and afterwards nuclear translocation of NRF2, subsequently driving the activation of downstream antioxidative enzymes. In parallel, we proved that UroA restored mitochondrial function by induction of mitophagy, which was regulated by the SIRT3-FOXO3-PINK1-PARKIN network. Taken together, our results showed that UroA protected dermal fibroblast from UVA damage through NRF2/ARE activation and mitophagy process, thus supporting UroA as a potential therapeutic agent for photoaging.

Explore the Multitarget Mechanism of Tetrahydrocurcumin preventing on UV-Induced Photoaging mouse skin

UV induced photoaging is the main external factor of skin aging. In this study, we tested the protective effects of tetrahydrocurcumin on UV-induced skin photoaging of KM mice and researched the multi-target mechanism through RNA sequencing technology. Mouse experiments show that tetrahydrocurcumin strongly changed in skin appearance, epidermal thickness, and wrinkle-related parameters in UV-irradiated mice. RNA-seq result show that we found 29 differentially expressed mRNA transcripts in UV mice relative to Ctrl rats (18 up-regulated and 11 down-regulated) and 7 significantly dysregulated mRNAs were obtained in the THC group compared to the UV group (1 up-regulated and 6 down-regulated), respectively. Spink7, Edn3, Stab2 may be the key target genes of tetrahydrocurcumin in preventing aging. Bioinformatics analysis shows that the response to muscle contraction and melanin biosynthetic GO term and Inflammation related pathway such as PPAR, MAPK would involve in effects of tetrahydrocurcumin. The results of this study indicated that tetrahydrocurcumin can improve the appearance through anti-inflammatory, improving extracellular matrix and inhibiting melanin production. It could be suggested as a protective measure in the prevention of UV-induced photoaging.

Modeling of the Senescence-Associated Phenotype in Human Skin Fibroblasts

Modern understanding of aging is based on the accumulation of cellular damage during one’s life span due to the gradual deterioration of regenerative mechanisms in response to the continuous effect of stress, lifestyle, and environmental factors, followed by increased morbidity and mortality. Simultaneously, the number of senescent cells accumulate exponentially as organisms age. Cell culture models are valuable tools to investigate the mechanisms of aging by inducing cellular senescence in stress-induced premature senescence (SIPS) models. Here, we explain the three-step and one-step H₂O₂-induced senescence models of SIPS designed and reproduced on different human dermal fibroblast cell lines (CCD-1064Sk, CCD-1135Sk, and BJ-5ta). In both SIPS models, it was evident that the fibroblasts developed similar aging characteristics as cells with replicative senescence. Among the most noticeable senescent biomarkers were increased β-Gal expression, high levels of the p21 protein, altered levels of cell-cycle regulators (i.e., CDK2 and c-Jun), compromised extracellular matrix (ECM) composition, reduced cellular viability, and delayed wound healing properties. Based on the significant increase in senescence biomarkers in fibroblast cultures, reduced functional activity, and metabolic dysfunction, the one-step senescence model was chosen as a feasible and reliable method for future testing of anti-aging compounds.

Effects of Collagen Hydrolysate From Large Hybrid Sturgeon on Mitigating Ultraviolet B-Induced Photodamage

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation leads to the excessive accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which subsequently promote inflammation, degradation of the extracellular matrix, and photoaging in skin. Thus antioxidant activity is particularly important when screening for active substances to prevent or repair photodamage. Marine fish-derived bioactive peptides have become a trend in cosmetics and functional food industries owing to their potential dermatological benefits. In this study, 1-diphenyl- 2-pycryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging activity was selected to optimize the hydrolysis conditions of sturgeon skin collagen peptides with antioxidant activity. The optimal hydrolysis conditions for sturgeon skin collagen hydrolysate (SSCH) were determined by response surface methodology, which comprised an enzyme dosage of flavorzyme at 6,068.4 U/g, temperature of 35.5°C, pH of 7, and hydrolysis time of 6 h. SSCH showed good radical-scavenging capacities with a DPPH scavenging efficiency of 95%. Then, the effect of low-molecular-weight SSCH fraction (SSCH-L) on UVB irradiation-induced photodamage was evaluated in mouse fibroblast L929 cells and zebrafish. SSCH-L reduced intracellular ROS levels and the malondialdehyde content, thereby alleviating the oxidative damage caused by UVB radiation. Moreover SSCH-L inhibited the mRNA expression of genes encoding the pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α, and Cox-2. SSCH-L treatment further increased the collagen Ⅰα1 content and had a significant inhibitory effect on matrix metalloproteinase expression. The phosphorylation level of JNK and the expression of c-Jun protein were significantly reduced by SSCH-L. Additionally, SSCH-L increased the tail fin area at 0.125 and 0.25 mg/ml in a zebrafish UVB radiation model, which highlighted the potential of SSCH-L to repair UVB-irradiated zebrafish skin damage. Peptide sequences of SSCH-L were identified by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry. Based on the 3D-QSAR modeling prediction, six total peptides were selected to test the UVB-protective activity. Among these peptides, DPFRHY showed good UVB-repair activity, ROS-scavenging activity, DNA damage-protective activity and apoptosis inhibition activity. These results suggested that DPFRHY has potential applications as a natural anti-photodamage material in cosmetic and functional food industries.

Human skin through the ages

As the largest organ of the human body the skin offers a protective role, providing a tough but pliable covering that provides the major barrier between the internal organs and the environment. It actively regulates water loss and is both oxygen and carbon dioxide permeable, and influences temperature regulation and immunological functions through its sensory properties. Both intrinsic and enhanced environmental factors contribute to the progressive deterioration of the skin with increasing age. Cutaneous problems are therefore an unavoidable and inevitable consequence of aging skin, which can prove to be both cosmetically unacceptable to those who succumb to these problems, as well as even life threatening if skin breakdown becomes chronic as is case with leg ulceration. This in turn has major implications for long-term impact on those looking after them (e.g., family, carers, etc.) and a huge burden on the health care system.

Photoaging: UV radiation-induced inflammation and immunosuppression accelerate the aging process in the skin

Background

Excessive exposure of the skin to UV radiation (UVR) triggers a remodeling of the immune system and leads to the photoaging state which is reminiscent of chronological aging. Over 30 years ago, it was observed that UVR induced an immunosuppressive state which inhibited skin contact hypersensitivity.

Methods

Original and review articles encompassing inflammation and immunosuppression in the photoaging and chronological aging processes were examined from major databases including PubMed, Scopus, and Google Scholar.

Results

Currently it is known that UVR treatment can trigger a cellular senescence and inflammatory state in the skin. Chronic low-grade inflammation stimulates a counteracting immunosuppression involving an expansion of immunosuppressive cells, e.g., regulatory T cells (Treg), myeloid-derived suppressor cells (MDSC), and regulatory dendritic cells (DCreg). This increased immunosuppressive activity not only suppresses the function of effector immune cells, a state called immunosenescence, but it also induces bystander degeneration of neighboring cells. Interestingly, the chronological aging process also involves an accumulation of pro-inflammatory senescent cells and signs of chronic low-grade inflammation, called inflammaging. There is also clear evidence that inflammaging is associated with an increase in anti-inflammatory and immunosuppressive activities which promote immunosenescence.

Conclusion

It seems that photoaging and normal aging evoke similar processes driven by the remodeling of the immune system. However, it is likely that there are different molecular mechanisms inducing inflammation and immunosuppression in the accelerated photoaging and the chronological aging processes.

Chlorogenic Acid Prevents UVA-Induced Skin Photoaging through Regulating Collagen Metabolism and Apoptosis in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Skin aging is categorized as chronological aging and photo-aging that affected by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The present study aimed to investigate the anti-aging ability and its underlying mechanism of chlorogenic acid (CGA) on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). In this study, CGA specifically up-regulated collagen I (Col1) mRNA and protein expressions and increased the collagen secretion in the supernatant of HDFs without affecting the cell viability, the latter was also demonstrated in BioMAP HDF3CGF system. Under ultraviolet A (UVA)-induced photoaging, CGA regulated collagen metabolism by increasing Col1 expression and decreasing matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP1) and MMP3 levels in UVA-irradiated HDFs. The activation of transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β)-mediated Smad2/3 molecules, which is crucial in Col1 synthesis, was suppressed by UVA irradiation and but enhanced at the presence of CGA. In addition, CGA reduced the accumulation of UVA-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS), attenuated the DNA damage and promoted cell repair, resulting in reducing the apoptosis of UVA-irradiated HDFs. In conclusion, our study, for the first time, demonstrate that CGA has protective effects during skin photoaging, especially triggered by UVA-irradiation, and provide rationales for further investigation of CGA being used to prevent or treat skin aging.

Molecular Mechanisms of Changes in Homeostasis of the Dermal Extracellular Matrix: Both Involutional and Mediated by Ultraviolet Radiation

Skin aging is a multi-factorial process that affects nearly every aspect of skin biology and function. With age, an impairment of structures, quality characteristics, and functions of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) occurs in the skin, which leads to disrupted functioning of dermal fibroblasts (DFs), the main cells supporting morphofunctional organization of the skin. The DF functioning directly depends on the state of the surrounding collagen matrix (CM). The intact collagen matrix ensures proper adhesion and mechanical tension in DFs, which allows these cells to maintain collagen homeostasis while ECM correctly regulates cellular processes. When the integrity of CM is destroyed, mechanotransduction is disrupted, which is accompanied by impairment of DF functioning and destruction of collagen homeostasis, thereby contributing to the progression of aging processes in skin tissues. This article considers in detail the processes of skin aging and associated changes in the skin layers, as well as the mechanisms of these processes at the molecular level.

Focus on the Contribution of Oxidative Stress in Skin Aging

Skin aging is one of the most evident signs of human aging. Modification of the skin during the life span is characterized by fine lines and wrinkling, loss of elasticity and volume, laxity, rough-textured appearance, and pallor. In contrast, photoaged skin is associated with uneven pigmentation (age spot) and is markedly wrinkled. At the cellular and molecular level, it consists of multiple interconnected processes based on biochemical reactions, genetic programs, and occurrence of external stimulation. The principal cellular perturbation in the skin driving senescence is the alteration of oxidative balance. In chronological aging, reactive oxygen species (ROS) are produced mainly through cellular oxidative metabolism during adenosine triphosphate (ATP) generation from glucose and mitochondrial dysfunction, whereas in extrinsic aging, loss of redox equilibrium is caused by environmental factors, such as ultraviolet radiation, pollution, cigarette smoking, and inadequate nutrition. During the aging process, oxidative stress is attributed to both augmented ROS production and reduced levels of enzymatic and non-enzymatic protectors. Apart from the evident appearance of structural change, throughout aging, the skin gradually loses its natural functional characteristics and regenerative potential. With aging, the skin immune system also undergoes functional senescence manifested as a reduced ability to counteract infections and augmented frequency of autoimmune and neoplastic diseases. This review proposes an update on the role of oxidative stress in the appearance of the clinical manifestation of skin aging, as well as of the molecular mechanisms that underline this natural phenomenon sometimes accelerated by external factors.

Nuclear factor-kappa B and effector molecules in photoaging

Nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB) has important but complex functions in the photoaging of the human skin. This protein complex is activated upon UV irradiation and plays a key role in the signalling pathway of the inflammatory cascade. NF-κB induces the expression of various proinflammatory cytokines, such as tumour necrosis factor (TNF) and interleukin-1 (IL-1). These proinflammatory cytokines can in turn stimulate the activation of NF-κB, forming a vicious cycle. These processes cause chronic inflammation and contribute to skin ageing. In addition, the activation of NF-κB upregulates the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and leads to the degradation of structural proteins in the dermis. NF-κB disrupts the barrier function of the skin under prolonged and repeated UV stimulations in these ways. Such activity causes chronic skin damage, followed by the formation of wrinkles, dryness, roughness, laxity, and other photoaging manifestations. This study on the NF-κB signalling pathway and effector molecules provides a new perspective to understand and prevent photoaging.

Newborn and elderly skin: two fragile skins at higher risk of pressure injury

Skin is a key organ maintaining internal homeostasis by performing many functions such as water loss prevention, body temperature regulation and protection from noxious substance absorption, microorganism intrusion and physical trauma. Skin ageing has been well studied and it is well known that physiological changes in the elderly result in higher skin fragility favouring the onset of skin diseases. For example, prolonged and/or high-intensity pressure may suppress local blood flow more easily, disturbing cell metabolism and inducing pressure injury (PI) formation. Pressure injuries (PIs) represent a significant problem worldwide and their prevalence remains too high. A higher PI prevalence is correlated with an elderly population. Newborn skin evolution has been less studied, but some data also report a higher PI prevalence in this population compared to older children, and several authors also consider this skin as physiologically fragile. In this review, we compare the characteristics of newborn and elderly skin in order to determine common features that may explain their fragility, especially regarding PI risk. We show that, despite differences in appearance, they share many common features leading to higher fragility to shear and pressure forces, not only at the structural level but also at the cellular and molecular level and in terms of physiology. Both newborn and elderly skin have: (i) a thinner epidermis; (ii) a thinner dermis containing a less-resistant collagen network, a higher collagen III:collagen I ratio and less elastin; (iii) a flatter dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) with lower anchoring systems; and (iv) a thinner hypodermis, resulting in lower mechanical resistance to skin damage when pressure or shear forces are applied. At the molecular level, reduced expression of transforming growth factor β (TGFβ) and its receptor TGFβ receptor II (TβRII) is involved in the decreased production and/or increased degradation of various dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) components. Epidermal fragility also involves a higher skin pH which decreases the activity of key enzymes inducing ceramide deficiency and reduced barrier protection. This seems to be correlated with higher PI prevalence in some situations. Some data also suggest that stratum corneum (SC) dryness, which may disturb cell metabolism, also increases the risk of PI formation. Besides this structural fragility, several skin functions are also less efficient. Low applied pressures induce skin vessel vasodilation via a mechanism called pressure-induced vasodilation (PIV). Individuals lacking a normal PIV response show an early decrease in cutaneous blood flow in response to the application of very low pressures, reflecting vascular fragility of the skin that increases the risk of ulceration. Due to changes in endothelial function, skin PIV ability decreases during skin ageing, putting it at higher risk of PI formation. In newborns, some data lead us to hypothesize that the nitric oxide (NO) pathway is not fully functional at birth, which may partly explain the higher risk of PI formation in newborns. In the elderly, a lower PIV ability results from impaired functionality of skin innervation, in particular that of C-fibres which are involved in both touch and pain sensation and the PIV mechanism. In newborns, skin sensitivity differs from adults due to nerve system immaturity, but the role of this in PIV remains to be determined.

Anti-Skin-Aging Effect of a Treatment with a Cosmetic Product and a Food Supplement Based on a New Hyaluronan: A Randomized Clinical Study in Healthy Women

Hyaluronic acid (HA) has long been used for its anti-age properties, as an ingredient in both topical applications and food supplements. In this study, a novel sodium hyaluronate, based on the innovative full spectrum technology, was administered as an ingredient of a cosmetic product and as the main constituent of a food supplement to evaluate its efficacy in counteracting skin ageing signs. Seventy-five female subjects were randomly assigned to the following treatments for 4 weeks: an active food supplement and a placebo cosmetic product, an active cosmetic product and a placebo food supplement, and a combination of the two products containing the active ingredient, that is, an “In&Out” treatment. The subjects used the placebo cosmetic product for another 14 days. Improvement of all the outcome measures (skin moisturization, elasticity, firmness and profilometry) was achieved by all treatments (p < 0.05); however, the combined treatment resulted in a further amelioration of the skin aging signs with respect to the two single active treatments (p < 0.001), and such effect lasted also after the follow-up period. In conclusion, such results confirmed that the concomitant administration of hyaluronans by these two different routes represents more than an interesting approach to counteract skin aging signs.

Basal cell carcinomas acquire secondary mutations to overcome dormancy and progress from microscopic to macroscopic disease

Basal cell carcinomas (BCCs) frequently possess immense mutational burdens; however, the functional significance of most of these mutations remains unclear. Here, we report that loss of Ptch1, the most common mutation that activates upstream Hedgehog (Hh) signaling, initiates the formation of nascent BCC-like tumors that eventually enter into a dormant state. However, rare tumors that overcome dormancy acquire the ability to hyperactivate downstream Hh signaling through a variety of mechanisms, including amplification of Gli1/2 and upregulation of Mycn. Furthermore, we demonstrate that MYCN overexpression promotes the progression of tumors induced by loss of Ptch1. These findings suggest that canonical mutations that activate upstream Hh signaling are necessary, but not sufficient, for BCC to fully progress. Rather, tumors likely acquire secondary mutations that further hyperactivate downstream Hh signaling in order to escape dormancy and enter a trajectory of uncontrolled expansion.

Trieu et al. generate BCC mouse models in which rare macroscopic tumors form alongside numerous failed microscopic lesions. Successful macroscopic tumors acquire secondary changes that elevate Gli1, Gli2, and/or Mycn levels, causing hyperactivation of downstream Hedgehog (Hh) signaling. Loss of p53 and Notch1 also contributes to tumor progression.

Cutaneous immune-related adverse events and photodamaged skin in metastatic melanoma patients: Could the use of nicotinamide be useful?

Cutaneous immune-related adverse events occur in more than one-third of patients treated with immune checkpoint inhibitors; they are often the first clinical manifestation although they may occur months after initiation of therapy.We noticed that our patients usually have these cutaneous adverse events on photodamaged skin. In fact, out of 19 patients being treated for metastatic melanoma, patients (42%) with significant cutaneous actinic damage presented cutaneous immuno-related adverse events earlier and in a more serious form. Thus, our metastatic melanoma patients with photodamaged skin who were initiating immunotherapy were given a high oral dose of nicotinamide (500 mg twice daily)for the entire duration of therapy. In treated patients, the appearance of the first signs of cutaneous immuno-related adverse events was 180 days after starting therapy rather than 65 days for untreated patients.

Bacterial taxa predictive of hyperpigmented skins

Background and Aims

Dark spots, brown spots, or hyperpigmented spots (HPS) are oval or irregular brown areas of skin. Their emergence is associated with dysregulation of the immune system, and may also be caused by a deficiency in stromal cell‐derived factor‐1, leading to perturbed melanogenesis and accumulation of melanosomes within neighboring keratinocytes. The skin microbiota (living microorganisms present on the surface of the skin) is known to play essential roles in maintaining skin homeostasis and in regulating the immune system. Here, we investigated whether the microbiota could play a role in the emergence of HPS.

Methods

The clinical study involved 38 European women, selected from among 74 volunteers. Participants were divided into two groups depending on the spot areas measured on their faces. The study was designed to avoid conflicting factors: both groups presented similar skin pH, hydration, transepidermal water loss, and sebum levels. The two cohorts were also age‐matched, with a mean of 29‐years‐old for both.

Results

Alpha‐diversity of the microbiota was similar for the two groups. On skins with more HPS, seven bacterial genera were identified in significantly higher proportions and included opportunistic pathogens and inflammatory bacteria. Six bacterial genera, including bacteria showing antioxidant and anti‐UV properties, were identified in significantly higher proportions on less spotted skins. Cross‐domain association networks revealed distinct co‐occurrences of genera between the two groups, suggesting nonidentical community structures and exchanges, depending on the HPS status.

Conclusion

Our results reveal specific microbiota composition and networks on skins based on HPS status. Changes could alter communication with the immune system, leading to the emergence of dark spots. As an essential part of the overall skin ecosystem, and through its interaction with the skin matrix, the skin microbiota and its maintenance could be considered a new target for skincare applications.

Genome-wide association analysis reveal the genetic reasons affect melanin spot accumulation in beak skin of ducks

Background

Skin pigmentation is a broadly appearing phenomenon of most animals and humans in nature. Here we used a bird model to investigate why melanin spot deposits on the skin.

Results

Our result showed that growth age and the sunlight might induce melanin deposition in bird beak skin which was determined by genetic factors. GWAS helped us to identify two major loci affecting melanin deposition, located on chromosomes 13 and 25, respectively. The fine mapping works narrowed the candidate regions to 0.98 Mb and 1.0 Mb on chromosomes 13 and 25. The MITF and POU2F3 may be the causative genes and synergistically affect melanin deposition during duck beak skin. Furthermore, our data strongly demonstrated that the pathway of melanin metabolism contributes to melanin deposition on the skin.

Conclusions

We demonstrated that age and sunlight induce melanin deposition in bird beak skin, while heredity is fundamental. The MITF and POU2F3 likely played a synergistic effect on the regulation of melanin synthesis, and their mutations contribute to phenotypic differences in beak melanin deposition among individuals. It is pointed out that melanin deposition in the skin is related to the pathway of melanin metabolism, which provided insights into the molecular regulatory mechanisms and the genetic improvement of the melanin deposition in duck beak.

Up-to-Date Overview of the Use of Natural Ingredients in Sunscreens

The photoprotective skincare segment is in high demand to meet consumer concerns on UV-induced skin damage, with a recent trend towards sunscreen alternatives with a natural origin. In this study, the use of natural ingredients, either from terrestrial or marine origin, in a panel of 444 sunscreen commercial formulations (2021) was analyzed. Ingredients from terrestrial organisms represent the large majority found in the analyzed sunscreen formulations (48%), whereas marine ingredients are present only in 13% of the analyzed products. A deeper analysis regarding the most prevalent families of ingredients from terrestrial and marine organisms used as top ingredients is also presented, as well as their mechanisms of action. This study provides an up-to-date overview of the sunscreen market regarding the use of natural ingredients, which is of relevance for scientists involved in the development of new sunscreens to identify opportunities for innovation.

Growth factors-based platelet lysate rejuvenates skin against ageing through NF-κB signalling pathway: In vitro and in vivo mechanistic and clinical studies

Introduction

Platelets benefit tissue regeneration by secreting growth factors, and platelet products, for example, platelet lysate (PL), have been clinically applied for tissue rejuvenation. To determine the anti‐ageing efficacy and mechanism of human PL (hPL) on skin, this study conducted clinical retrospective analysis, nude mice‐based in vivo study and human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs)‐based in vitro study.

Methods

Flow cytometry was employed for quality control of hPL, and ELISA was used for quantification of growth factors (EGF, IGF‐1, PDGF and TGF‐β) in hPL. After d‐galactose modelling, skin texture grading, histopathological observation, immunofluorescence analysis and oxidative stress assays were conducted on nude mice, while SA‐β‐gal staining, CCK‐8 and wound healing assays were conducted on HDFs. qPCR and western blot were conducted to clarify hPL's mechanism.

Results

The clinical retrospective data showed that hPL obviously rejuvenated human skin appearances without adverse events. The animal data showed that hPL exerted rejuvenative effects on skin, and the cellular data showed that hPL significantly promoted the proliferation and migration of HDFs and suppressed senescence‐associated secretory protein secretion and senescence state of senescent HDFs by suppressing NF‐κB pathway. The NF‐κB‐dependent mechanism was verified positively by using P65 siRNA and negatively by using prostratin. Furthermore, EGF, IGF‐1, PDGF and TGF‐β were found as the main ingredients in hPL, which contributed to the efficacy and mechanism of hPL.

Conclusion

This study provided novel knowledge of hPL, making it ideal for skin rejuvenation.

A Harungana madagascariensis extract with retinol-like properties - Gene upregulations and protein expressions in human fibroblasts and skin explants

OBJECTIVE

Because they limit, even reverse, age-induced skin alterations, retinoids became a staple in cosmetology. However, their use can result in undesired secondary effects and there is a demand for natural sources of compounds with retinoid like effects. A preliminary screening identified a Harungana madagascariensis plant extract (HME) as possibly inducing genes stimulated by retinol. We analysed its effect on gene and protein expression, comparing it to retinoids.

METHODS

Gene expression was analysed by real-time qPCR on RNA from isolated fibroblasts subjected to retinol or the plant extract for 6, 48 or 96 hours. Skin markers were quantified in fibroblasts cultured with retinol or extract containing medium, and UV-aged skin explants subjected to topical applications of creams containing retinol, retinaldehyde or HME.

RESULTS

Real-time qPCR show that the extract induced all RARs and RXRs, even RXRγ that was not induced by retinol. Eighty-eight percent of the 25 early retinoid reaction genes induced by a concentration of retinol are induced by the extract. In fibroblasts, only the extract increased collagen III labelling, while collagen I and fibronectin labelling are increased by retinol and the extract, with higher levels for the extract. When topically applied to UV-aged skin explants, only the cream containing the HME led to increased labelling of CRABP1 in the epidermis. CRABP2 and Ki67 are induced by all three creams and no effect was detected on RXRs. In the dermis the extract containing cream increased CRABP2, total collagen, procollagen I and collagen I while creams with retinol or retinaldehyde only affected some of these proteins.

CONCLUSIONS

The HME induces an overall retinol-like gene induction profile in isolated fibroblasts and retinoid-like stimulation of protein synthesis in both isolated fibroblasts and photoaged skin explants.

Wrinkle reduction using a Sasang constitutional medicine-based topical herbal cream in So-eum subjects: A split-face randomized double-blind placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is caused by exogenous and endogenous factors and is commonly manifested as wrinkling, sagging, and looseness of the skin. The herbal extract including Zingiber officinale Roscoe, Atractylodes chinensis (Bunge) Kodiz, Curcuma longa L., and Cinnamomum cassia (L.) J.Presl (ZACC extract), is widely used for So-eum (SE) Sasang constitutional type individuals. This study aimed to examine the protective effects of the ZACC extract against skin aging in 21 SE type subjects.

METHODS

The safety and clinical efficacy of herbal cream were evaluated after application on human skin in a split-face randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. The Sasang Constitution Analysis Tool (SCAT) was used to select 21 SE type subjects, who applied herbal cream and placebo cream for 12 weeks. Visual assessment, wrinkle parameters, questionnaires, and skin safety were evaluated.

RESULTS

The visual assessment score was decreased by using of the herbal cream, but there were no significant differences between groups. Among the wrinkle parameters, R1 (skin roughness) and R4 (smoothness depth) values were significantly improved after the application of the herbal cream compared to those observed after application of the placebo cream for 12 weeks. No significant differences were observed in evaluation of the product efficacy and usability by questionnaires. There were no adverse dermatologic reactions in the SE type subjects during the evaluation period.

CONCLUSION

The ZACC herbal cream may be used to prevent or slow skin aging, including wrinkle formation, in SE type individuals.

Double-Stranded RNA Enhances Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 and -13 Expressions through TLR3-Dependent Activation of Transglutaminase 2 in Dermal Fibroblasts

UV-irradiation induces the secretion of double-stranded RNA (dsRNA) derived from damaged noncoding RNAs in keratinocytes, which enhance the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) in non-irradiated dermal fibroblasts, leading to dysregulation of extracellular matrix homeostasis. However, the signaling pathway responsible for dsRNA-induced MMP expression has not been fully understood. Transglutaminase 2 (TG2) is an enzyme that modifies substrate proteins by incorporating polyamine or crosslinking of proteins, thereby regulating their functions. In this study, we showed that TG2 mediates dsRNA-induced MMP-1 expression through NF-κB activation. Treatment of poly(I:C), a synthetic dsRNA analogue binding to toll-like receptor 3 (TLR3), generates ROS, which in turn activates TG2 in dermal fibroblast. Subsequently, TG2 activity enhances translocation of p65 into the nucleus, where it augments transcription of MMP. We confirmed these results by assessing the level of MMP expression in Tlr3^−/−, TG2-knockdowned and Tgm2^−/− dermal fibroblasts after poly(I:C)-treatment. Moreover, treatment with quercetin showed dose-dependent suppression of poly(I:C)-induced MMP expression. Furthermore, ex vivo cultured skin from Tgm2^−/− mice exhibited a significantly reduced level of MMP mRNA compared with those from wild-type mice. Our results indicate that TG2 is a critical regulator in dsRNA-induced MMP expression, providing a new target and molecular basis for antioxidant therapy in preventing collagen degradation.

Paclitaxel Induces Epidermal Molecular Changes and Produces Subclinical Alterations in the Skin of Gynecological Cancer Patients

Simple Summary

Skin toxicity is one of paclitaxel’s adverse effects. However, its real impact on the skin could be underestimated as these alterations can also appear asymptomatic. We have observed that paclitaxel modifies gene and protein expression of skin markers in a 3D epidermis model, and impairs physical, physiological, and biomechanical properties of the skin in gynecologic cancer patients. These subclinical alterations might be avoided by using prophylactic measures during treatment to prevent possible future adverse reactions.

Abstract

Background: Paclitaxel is a microtubule-stabilizing chemotherapeutic agent. Despite its widespread use, it damages healthy tissues such as skin. The goal of this study was to prove that the real impact of paclitaxel-induced skin toxicity could be underestimated because the adverse events might appear asymptomatic. Methods: Gynecological cancer patients were recruited. Skin parameters measurements were taken after three and six paclitaxel cycles. Measurements were conducted using specific probes which measure hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum, elasticity and firmness, erythema, roughness, smoothness, skin thickness, and desquamation levels. Further, a 3D epidermis model was incubated with paclitaxel to analyze gene and protein expression of aquaporin 3, collagen type 1, elastin, and fibronectin. Results: Paclitaxel induced alterations in the skin parameters with no visible clinical manifestations. Gynecological cancer patients under paclitaxel treatment had a decrease in hydration, TEWL, sebum, elasticity, and thickness of the skin, while erythema, roughness, and desquamation were increased. The molecular markers, related to hydration and the support of the skin layers, and analyzed in the 3D epidermis model, were decreased. Conclusions: Results suggest that paclitaxel modifies gene and protein expression of skin-related molecular markers, and impairs different physical, physiological, and biomechanical properties of the skin of cancer patients at a subclinical level.

Mechanical stretching can modify the papillary dermis pattern and papillary fibroblast characteristics during skin regeneration

Clinical application of mechanical stretching is a reconstructive method for skin repair. Although studies have reported dermal fibroblast heterogeneity, whether stretching affects individual fibroblast subpopulations equally remains unclear. Here, we show the changes in dermal structure and papillary fibroblast (Fp) in regenerated human skin. Exhausted skin regeneration caused dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) flattening, papillary dermis thinning, and an increase in the type III collagen (COL3)/type I collagen (COL1) ratio with upregulated hallmarks of aging. Well-regenerated skin displayed a notable increase in the Fp population. Consistent changes were observed in the rat expansion model. Moreover, we found that TGFβ1 expression was especially increased in skin showing good regeneration. Activation of the TGFβ1/Smad2/3 pathway improved exhausted skin regeneration and resulted in increased collagen content and Fp proliferation, while pharmacological inhibition of TGFβ1 action impacted well-regenerated skin. Short-term mechanical stretching that promoted skin regeneration enhanced Fp proliferation, extracellular matrix (ECM) synthesis, and increased TGFβ1 expression, leading to good regeneration. Conversely, long-term stretching induced premature Fp senescence, leading to poor regeneration. This work shows the mechanism of mechanical stretching in well skin regeneration that enhances Fp proliferation and ECM synthesis via the TGFβ1/Smad2/3 pathway, and highlights a crucial role of Fps in stretching-induced skin regeneration.

IL-34 Downregulation-associated M1/M2 Macrophage Imbalance is Related to Inflammaging in Sun-exposed Human Skin

Macrophages can be polarized into two subsets: a proinflammatory (M1) or an anti-inflammatory (M2) phenotype. In this study, we show that an increased M1-to-M2 ratio associated with a decrease in IL-34 induces skin inflammaging. The total number of macrophages in the dermis did not change, but the number of M2 macrophages was significantly decreased. Thus, the M1-to-M2 ratio was significantly increased in sun-exposed aged skin and positively correlated with the percentage of p21⁺ and p16⁺ senescent cells in the dermis. The supernatant of M1 macrophages increased the percentages of senescence-associated β-galactosidase‒positive cells, whereas the supernatant of M2 macrophages decreased the percentages of senescence-associated β-galactosidase‒positive cells in vitro. Among the mechanisms that could explain the increase in the M1-to-M2 ratio, we found that the number of IL-34⁺ cells was decreased in aged skin and negatively correlated with the M1-to-M2 ratio. Furthermore, IL-34 induced the expression of CD206 and IL-10, which are M2 macrophage markers, in an in vitro assay. Our results suggest that a reduction in epidermal IL-34 in aged skin may skew the M1/M2 balance in the dermis and lead to low-grade chronic inflammation and inflammaging.

Protective Effect of the Pearl extract from Pinctada fucata martensii Dunker on UV-induced Photoaging in Mice

Although the effect of pearl powder has been recognized for more than a thousand years from healthcare to beauty care, there has yet to be an in-depth understanding of its anti-photoaging effect. In the present study, the protective effect of pearl extract (PE) on UV-induced photoaging in mice was evaluated. First, the amino acid analysis of PE was carried out. Then, different dosages of pearl extract gel (PEG) were applied topically  on the shaved dorsal skins regions of mice before UV irradiation. Skin physiological and histological analysis, antioxidant enzymes and inflammatory factor test were used to evaluate the anti-photoaging effect of PEG. The results showed that PEG contained 14 amino acids, and could inhibit UV-irritated skin wrinkles, laxity, thickness, and dryness. Moreover, PEG upregulated the activities of CAT, GSH-Px, SOD and decreased MDA level, and suppressed the production of IL-1𝛽, IL-6, PGE 2 , TNF-𝛼, and COX-2 in UV-irradiated mice. The therapeutic effect in high dose PEG group was superior to those of positive control (Vitamin E). This study demonstrated the underlying mechanisms of PEG against UV-irritated photoaging. And PEG possesses a potential use in photoprotective medicines and cosmetics.

Aging and Light Stress Result in Overlapping and Unique Gene Expression Changes in Photoreceptors

Advanced age is one of the leading risk factors for vision loss and eye disease. Photoreceptors are the primary sensory neurons of the eye. The extended photoreceptor cell lifespan, in addition to its high metabolic needs due to phototransduction, makes it critical for these neurons to continually respond to the stresses associated with aging by mounting an appropriate gene expression response. Here, we sought to untangle the more general neuronal age-dependent transcriptional signature of photoreceptors with that induced by light stress. To do this, we aged flies or exposed them to various durations of blue light, followed by photoreceptor nuclei-specific transcriptome profiling. Using this approach, we identified genes that are both common and uniquely regulated by aging and light induced stress. Whereas both age and blue light induce expression of DNA repair genes and a neuronal-specific signature of death, both conditions result in downregulation of phototransduction. Interestingly, blue light uniquely induced genes that directly counteract the overactivation of the phototransduction signaling cascade. Lastly, unique gene expression changes in aging photoreceptors included the downregulation of genes involved in membrane potential homeostasis and mitochondrial function, as well as the upregulation of immune response genes. We propose that light stress contributes to the aging transcriptome of photoreceptors, but that there are also other environmental or intrinsic factors involved in age-associated photoreceptor gene expression signatures.

Skin aging risk factors: A nationwide population study in Mongolia risk factors of skin aging

The world population is aging and no country is immune to the consequences. We are not aware of any country-specific skin aging risk factors data for the Mongolian people. Thus, we aimed to study the risk factors associated with skin aging in the Mongolian population. A population-based cross-sectional study of 2720 study participants 18 years of age and older was performed evaluating the severity of skin aging based on cutaneous microtopography. Questionnaire data and skin physiological measurements were obtained. The odds ratios for skin aging grades associated with risk factors were estimated using ordinal logistic regression. Study participant's mean age was 45 years, ranging from 18 to 87. After adjustment for known risk factors, skin aging was associated with demographic risk factors such as increasing age (aOR = 1.19, 95% CI 1.18-1.20), living in an urban area (aOR = 1.31, 95% CI 1.12-1.55) and lifestyle factors including being a smoker (aOR = 1.32, 95% CI 1.09-1.61), having a higher body mass index (aOR = 1.04, 95% CI 1.02-1.06) and higher levels of sun exposure time (aOR = 1.03, 95% CI 1.00-1.06) were significantly associated with higher skin aging grades. Having dry (aOR = 1.94, 95% CI 1.45-2.59) and combination skin (aOR = 1.62, 95% CI 1.22-2.16) types were also independent risk factors associated with skin aging. Having very low skin surface moisture at the T-zone (aOR = 2.10, 95% CI 1.42-3.11) was significantly related to skin aging. Older age, urban living and toxic working conditions were independent demographic risk factors related to skin aging. Smoking, higher BMI, greater levels of sun exposure were significant lifestyle risk factors. Having a skin type other than normal was a physiologic risk factor for skin aging.

Promising Natural Products in New Drug Design, Development, and Therapy for Skin Disorders: An Overview of Scientific Evidence and Understanding Their Mechanism of Action

The skin is the largest organ in the human body, composed of the epidermis and the dermis. It provides protection and acts as a barrier against external menaces like allergens, chemicals, systemic toxicity, and infectious organisms. Skin disorders like cancer, dermatitis, psoriasis, wounds, skin aging, acne, and skin infection occur frequently and can impact human life. According to a growing body of evidence, several studies have reported that natural products have the potential for treating skin disorders. Building on this information, this review provides brief information about the action of the most important in vitro and in vivo research on the use of ten selected natural products in inflammatory, neoplastic, and infectious skin disorders and their mechanisms that have been reported to date. The related studies and articles were searched from several databases, including PubMed, Google, Google Scholar, and ScienceDirect. Ten natural products that have been reported widely on skin disorders were reviewed in this study, with most showing anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-microbial, and anti-cancer effects as the main therapeutic actions. Overall, most of the natural products reported in this review can reduce and suppress inflammatory markers, like tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS), induce cancer cell death through apoptosis, and prevent bacteria, fungal, and virus infections indicating their potentials. This review also highlighted the challenges and opportunities of natural products in transdermal/topical delivery systems and their safety considerations for skin disorders. Our findings indicated that natural products might be a low-cost, well-tolerated, and safe treatment for skin diseases. However, a larger number of clinical trials are required to validate these findings. Natural products in combination with modern drugs, as well as the development of novel delivery mechanisms, represent a very promising area for future drug discovery of these natural leads against skin disorders.

THE CONTENT OF METALLOPROTEINASE-2 AND METALLOPROTEINASE-9 IN THE SKIN OF RATS OF DIFFERENT AGES AFTER CLOSURE OF THE WOUND BED

OBJECTIVE

The aim: The aim of the study was to determine the content of metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) and metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) in the skin of rats of different ages after closure of the wound bed.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Materials and methods: The studies were performed on 40 white nonlinear male rats, 20 of which were 3 months old and 20 - 12 months. In each group 10 rats were control and in 10 others facelift operations were performed and cut wounds on the anterior abdominal wall were simulated. On the day of complete healing, the animals were killed, and the skin was cut in the areas of the former wound bed. In control rats, the skin was excised in the same places. The content of MMPs was determined in the skin by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay.

RESULTS

Results: In rats aged 3 months after re-epithelialization of the wound bed, the content of MMP-2 was 17,1% higher compared to control rats but the level of MMP-9 didn't change. In control rats aged 12 months, the levels of MMP-2 and MMP-9 in the skin were 22,9% and 34,4% lower compared to control rats at 3 months of age. In rats 12 months of age after re-epithelialization of the wound bed, the content of MMP-2 and MMP-9 were 92,6% and 102,5% higher compared to control rats.

CONCLUSION

Conclusions: We suggested that the violation of homeostasis between MMPs in rats 12 months of age disrupts wound healing and promotes the formation of pathological scars.

Sunscreens with the New MCE Filter Cover the Whole UV Spectrum: Improved UVA1 Photoprotection In Vitro and in a Randomized Controlled Trial

Background

UVA1 rays (340–400 nm) contribute to carcinogenesis, immunosuppression, hyperpigmentation, and aging. Current sunscreen formulas lack sufficient absorption in the 370–400 nm wavelengths range. Recently, a new UVA1 filter, Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) exhibiting a peak of absorption at 385 nm, was approved by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety for use in sunscreen products. These studies evaluated, in a three-dimensional skin model and in vivo, the protection afforded by state-of-the-art sunscreen formulations enriched with MCE.

Trial design

This study is a monocentric, double-blinded, randomized, and comparative trial. This study is registered at ClinicalTrials.gov with the identification number NCT04865094.

Methods

The efficacy of sunscreens with MCE was compared with that of reference formulas. In a three-dimensional skin model, histology, protein, and gene expression were analyzed. In the clinical trial, pigmentation was analyzed in 19 volunteers using colorimetric measurements and visual scoring.

Results

MCE addition in reference formulas enlarged the profile of absorption up to 400 nm; reduced UVA1-induced dermal and epidermal alterations at cellular, biochemical, and molecular levels; and decreased UVA1-induced pigmentation.

Conclusions

Addition of MCE absorber in sunscreen formulations leads to full coverage of UV spectrum and improved UVA1 photoprotection. The data support benefits in the long term on sun-induced consequences, especially those related to public health care issues.

Flavonoids Present in Propolis in the Battle against Photoaging and Psoriasis

The skin is the main external organ. It protects against different types of potentially harmful agents, such as pathogens, or physical factors, such as radiation. Skin disorders are very diverse, and some of them lack adequate and accessible treatment. The photoaging of the skin is a problem of great relevance since it is related to the development of cancer, while psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory disease that causes scaly skin lesions and deterioration of the lifestyle of people affected. These diseases affect the patient's health and quality of life, so alternatives have been sought that improve the treatment for these diseases. This review focuses on describing the properties and benefits of flavonoids from propolis against these diseases. The information collected shows that the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of flavonoids play a crucial role in the control and regulation of the cellular and biochemical alterations caused by these diseases; moreover, flavones, flavonols, flavanones, flavan-3-ols, and isoflavones contained in different worldwide propolis samples are the types of flavonoids usually evaluated in both diseases. Therefore, the research carried out in the area of dermatology with bioactive compounds of different origins is of great relevance to developing preventive and therapeutic approaches.

Photo-aging evaluation - In vitro biological endpoints combined with collagen density assessment with multi-photon microscopy

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet exposure has profound effect on the dermal connective tissue of human skin.

OBJECTIVE

We aimed to develop and validate an evaluation method/methodology using a full-thickness reconstructed skin model, to assess the anti-photoaging efficacy of cosmetic ingredients and sunscreen formulas by blending multi relevant biological endpoints including the newly developed dermal collagen quantification method with Multi-photon microscopy.

METHODS

The response of ex vivo human skin to UVA exposure was first characterized with multiphoton microscopy. Reconstructed full-thickness skin models was then used to reproduce the data and to create a proof-of-concept study by treating the models with sunscreen prototypes A or B, which differ on their UVA absorption properties, and systemic Vitamin C (Vit C). After exposure to UVA, the collagen density was quantified via multiphoton microscopy with automatic imaging processing. Histology, fibroblasts number, metalloprotease 1 (MMP1) secretion were also assessed.

RESULTS

UVA exposure induced pronounced reduction in collagen density and increased MMP1 secretion within both ex vivo human skin and reconstructed skin. Histological damage and fibroblast disappearance was observed with reconstructed skin. Within the proof-of-concept study prototype B, possessing higher UVA filtration, gave better protection than prototype A on the UV associated biological markers, and association with Vit C boosted sunscreen formula efficacy.

CONCLUSIONS

The photoaging evaluation method, consists of multi biological markers as well as dermal collagen quantification, is a relevant mean to assess the pre-clinical efficacy of anti-photoaging ingredients and sunscreen products. This approach is also beneficial for evaluating the efficacy of sunscreens and photoprotective ingredients.

Dietary supplementation with sulforaphane ameliorates skin aging through activation of the Keap1-Nrf2 pathway

Visible impairments in skin appearance, as well as a subtle decline in its functionality at the molecular level, are hallmarks of skin aging. Activation of the nuclear factor (erythroid-derived 2)-like 2 (Nrf2)-pathway, which is important in controlling inflammation and oxidative stress that occur during aging, can be triggered by sulforaphane (SFN), an isothiocyanate found in plants from the Brassicaceae family. This study aimed to assess the effects of SFN intake on age-related skin alterations. Male C57BL6 young (2 months) and old (21 months) mice were treated for 3 months with SFN diet (442.5 mg per kg) or control diet. The antioxidant capacities of the skin were increased in old SFN-treated animals as measured by mRNA levels of Nrf2 (P<.001) and its target genes NQO1 (P<.001) and HO1 (P<.01). Protein expression for Nrf2 was also increased in old SFN fed animals (P<.01), but not the protein expression of NQO1 or HO1. Additionally, ROS and MMP9 protein levels were significantly decreased (P<.05) in old SFN fed animals. Histopathological analysis confirmed that there was no difference in epidermal thickness in old, when compared to young, SFN treated animals, while the dermal layer thickness was lower in old vs. young, treated animals (P<.05). Moreover, collagen deposition was improved with SFN treatment in young (P<.05) and structurally significantly improved in the old mice (P<.001). SFN dietary supplementation therefore ameliorates skin aging through activation of the Nrf2-pathway.

Royal Jelly Protects against Epidermal Stress through Upregulation of the NQO1 Expression

Royal jelly (RJ) is secreted by honeybees and has been used as an apitherapy to obtain healthy skin since ancient times. However, the mechanism of the protective effects of RJ against skin aging and skin diseases caused by skin stress and its components have not been clarified. In this study, we attempted to understand the effect of RJ on epidermal function and observed that NAD(P)H quinone dehydrogenase 1 (NQO1) is significantly induced by RJ in keratinocytes. The expression of NQO1 was also increased in the 3D epidermal skin model. NQO1 is involved in antioxidation and detoxification metabolism, and we found that RJ protects against the epidermal stress caused by UVB and menadione through the upregulation of NQO1. We identified 10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid (10H2DA), a major fatty acid in RJ, as an active compound in this reaction as it induced the expression of NQO1 and protected the skin against oxidative stress. We demonstrated that the protective effect of RJ against epidermal stress is mediated through the upregulation of NQO1 by 10H2DA.

Development of an Aged Full-Thickness Skin Model Using Flexible Skin-on-a-Chip Subjected to Mechanical Stimulus Reflecting the Circadian Rhythm

The skin is subject to both intrinsic aging caused by metabolic processes in the body and extrinsic aging caused by exposure to environmental factors. Intrinsic aging is an important obstacle to in vitro experimentation as its long-term progression is difficult to replicate. Here, we accelerated aging of a full-thickness skin equivalent by applying periodic mechanical stimulation, replicating the circadian rhythm for 28 days. This aging skin model was developed by culturing a full-thickness, three-dimensional skin equivalent with human fibroblasts and keratinocytes to produce flexible skin-on-a-chip. Accelerated aging associated with periodic compressive stress was evidenced by reductions in the epidermal layer thickness, contraction rate, and secretion of Myb. Increases in β-galactosidase gene expression and secretion of reactive oxygen species and transforming growth factor-β1 were also observed. This in vitro aging skin model is expected to greatly accelerate drug development for skin diseases and cosmetics that cannot be tested on animals.

Structural and Functional Changes and Possible Molecular Mechanisms in Aged Skin

Skin aging is a complex process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Together, these factors affect the structure and function of the epidermis and dermis. Histologically, aging skin typically shows epidermal atrophy due to decreased cell numbers. The dermis of aged skin shows decreased numbers of mast cells and fibroblasts. Fibroblast senescence contributes to skin aging by secreting a senescence-associated secretory phenotype, which decreases proliferation by impairing the release of essential growth factors and enhancing degradation of the extracellular matrix through activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Several molecular mechanisms affect skin aging including telomere shortening, oxidative stress and MMP, cytokines, autophagic control, microRNAs, and the microbiome. Accumulating evidence on the molecular mechanisms of skin aging has provided clinicians with a wide range of therapeutic targets for treating aging skin.

Photoprotective Effect of Artemisia sieversiana Ehrhart Essential Oil Against UVB-induced Photoaging in Mice

Photoaging refers to the extrinsic aging resulting from ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, which impacts skin appearance and is accompanied by the risk of skin carcinoma. Developing natural products as photoprotective agents is of great interest in cosmetic industry nowadays. The present study aimed at investigating the possible use of Artemisia sieversiana Ehrhart essential oil (AEO) for the prevention of photoaging induced by UVB. AEO was characterized by chamazulene, which accounted for 38.92% among total 51 identified compounds. In in vitro assays, AEO was found to be a moderate antioxidant and good UVB filter with photostability. A UVB-induced photoaging mice model was established with three AEO formulations (0.1%, 0.5% and 1.5%, w/w) topically applied prior to UVB irradiation. The activities of catalase, particularly superoxide dismutase of skin increased, while malondialdehyde content decreased in AEO groups as compared with model controls. The production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1 and MMP-3) and depletion of hydroxyproline in skin were inhibited by AEO in a dose-dependent manner. Histological evaluation indicated that AEO decreased epidermal thickness, inflammatory cell infiltration, collagen degradation and elastin aberrance. These findings indicated that AEO could be a promising sunscreen agent in protecting the skin against photoaging.

Black Bean (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) Polyphenolic Extract Exerts Antioxidant and Antiaging Potential

Phenolic compounds present in common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) have been reported to possess antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and ultraviolet radiation (UVR) protective properties. UVR from sunlight, which consists of UV-B and UV-A radiations, induces reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radical formation, consequently activating proteinases and enzymes such as elastase and tyrosinase, leading to premature skin aging. The objective of this work was to extract, characterize and evaluate the antioxidant and antiaging potential of polyphenols from a black bean endemic variety. The polyphenolic extract was obtained from black beans by supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) using CO₂ with a mixture of water–ethanol as a cosolvent and conventional leaching with a mixture of water–ethanol as solvent. The polyphenolic extracts were purified and characterized, and antioxidant potential, tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory potentials were measured. The extract obtained using the SFE method using CO₂ and H₂O–Ethanol (50:50 v/v) as a cosolvent showed the highest total phenolic compounds yield, with 66.60 ± 7.41 mg GAE/g coat (p > 0.05) and 7.30 ± 0.64 mg C3GE/g coat (p < 0.05) of anthocyanins compared to conventional leaching. Nineteen tentative phenolic compounds were identified in leaching crude extract using ESI-QTOF. Quercetin-3-D-galactoside was identified in crude and purified extracts. The purified SFC extract showed IC₅₀ 0.05 ± 0.002 and IC₅₀ 0.21 ± 0.008 mg/mL for DPPH and ABTS, respectively. The lowest IC₅₀ value of tyrosinase inhibition was 0.143 ± 0.02 mg/mL and 0.005 ± 0.003 mg/mL of elastase inhibition for leaching purified extract. Phenolic compounds presented theoretical free energy values ranging from −5.3 to −7.8 kcal/mol for tyrosinase and −2.5 to −6.8 kcal/mol for elastase in molecular docking (in silico) studies. The results suggest that the purified extracts obtained by SFE or conventional leaching extraction could act as antioxidant and antiaging ingredients for cosmeceutical applications.

How good is the evidence that cellular senescence causes skin ageing?

Skin is the largest organ of the body with important protective functions, which become compromised with time due to both intrinsic and extrinsic ageing processes. Cellular senescence is the primary ageing process at cell level, associated with loss of proliferative capacity, mitochondrial dysfunction and significantly altered patterns of expression and secretion of bioactive molecules. Intervention experiments have proven cell senescence as a relevant cause of ageing in many organs. In case of skin, accumulation of senescence in all major compartments with ageing is well documented and might be responsible for most, if not all, the molecular changes observed during ageing. Incorporation of senescent cells into in-vitro skin models (specifically 3D full thickness models) recapitulates changes typically associated with skin ageing. However, crucial evidence is still missing. A beneficial effect of senescent cell ablation on skin ageing has so far only been shown following rather unspecific interventions or in transgenic mouse models. We conclude that evidence for cellular senescence as a relevant cause of intrinsic skin ageing is highly suggestive but not yet completely conclusive.

Evaluating the Sun Protection Factor of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Afzelin

Exposure to UV radiation damages the skin and increases the risk of skin cancer. Sunscreen is used to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. However, the chemical UV filters used in sunscreen can show toxicity and cause allergic reactions. A safe sunscreen that includes a lower content of chemical UV filters and exerts an excellent effect on UV protection needs to be developed. The objective of this study was to investigate whether the addition of afzelin to sunscreen could improve the sun protection factor (SPF). A synergistic effect between afzelin and organic sunscreen agents including padimate O and oxybenzone was confirmed. Interestingly, 100% in vitro SPF-boosting was observed when afzelin (0.05%) was applied with a standard SPF formulation containing organic sunscreens while afzelin alone had no contribution to the SPF. In vivo SPF analysis of the standard SPF formulation showed an SPF value of 13.3 that increased to 20.1 when supplemented with afzelin (0.05%). Additionally, afzelin showed no skin irritation in a human trial. These results suggest that afzelin is useful as a natural additive in sunscreen formulations and provides an SPF-boosting effect. Afzelin supplementation to the formulation showed the potential to reduce the use of synthetic photoprotectors, which could minimize the risk of synthetic agent toxicity.

Oral Administration of Rosa gallica Prevents UVB-Induced Skin Aging through Targeting the c-Raf Signaling Axis

Rosa gallica is a widely used Rosa species for medicinal and culinary purposes. Rosa gallica has been reported to display antioxidant, anti−inflammatory, and antibacterial activities. However, the effect of Rosa gallica against skin aging in vivo is unknown and its active components have not been fully understood. Oral administration of Rosa gallica prevented UVB−mediated skin wrinkle formation and loss of collagen/keratin fibers in the dorsal skin of mice. Examination of biomarkers at the molecular level showed that Rosa gallica downregulates UVB−induced COX−2 and MMP−1 expression in the skin. Through a direct comparison of major compounds identified using the UHPLC−MS/MS system, we discovered gallic acid as the primary component contributing to the anti-skin aging effect exhibited by Rosa gallica. Examination of the molecular mechanism revealed that gallic acid can potently and selectively target the c−Raf/MEK/ERK/c−Fos signaling axis. In addition, both gallic acid and MEK inhibitor blocked UVB−induced MMP−1 expression and restored collagen levels in a reconstructed 3D human skin model. Collectively, Rosa gallica could be used as a functional ingredient in the development of nutraceuticals against skin aging.

Anti-Photoaging and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Ginsenoside Rk3 During Exposure to UV Irradiation

Ginseng is a widely cultivated perennial plant in China and Korea. Ginsenoside Rk3 is one of the major active components of ginseng and is a promising candidate to regulate skin pigments and exert anti-photoaging effects on skin physiology. Ginsenoside Rk3 was mixed with a cream (G-Rk3 cream) and smeared on the skin of mice. Then, the mice were exposed to ultraviolet (UV) A (340 nm and 40 W) and UVB (313 nm and 40 W) radiation. Special attention was given to the anti-photoaging and anti-inflammatory effects of ginsenoside Rk3 on the mouse skin. Macroscopic evaluation indicated that the mouse dorsal skin looked smooth and plump even under UV irradiation for 12 weeks. Pathological analysis indicated that there was no obvious photoaging or inflammation in the mouse skin that was treated with the G-Rk3 cream. More healthy, intact, and neat collagen fibers were observed in mice treated with the G-Rk3 cream than in untreated mice. Further analysis proved that ginsenoside Rk3 could inhibit the decrease in water and hydroxyproline levels in skin tissues and the loss of superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase activities in the blood. Moreover, ginsenoside Rk3 slowed or halted increases in malondialdehyde, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, and MMP-3 levels in the blood and levels of interleukin 1, interleukin 6, and tumor necrosis factor α in skin tissues. In conclusion, ginsenoside Rk3 plays a significant role in inhibiting photoaging and inflammation to protect skin health.