Barrier requirements as the evolutionary "driver" of epidermal pigmentation in humans

Photoprotection for people with skin of colour: needs and strategies

Skin of colour or pigmented skin has unique characteristics: it has a higher eumelanin-to-pheomelanin ratio, more mature melanosomes, an increased amount of melanin distributed in the upper layers of the epidermis, and more efficient DNA repair compared with lighter skin. However, individuals with skin of colour are at a significant risk of skin damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, including the development of photodermatoses and photoageing changes such as uneven skin tone, and are predisposed to pigmentary disorders. In fact, one of the most common conditions leading to dermatology consultations by patients with skin of colour is photoexacerbated pigmentary disorders. Unfortunately, individuals with skin of colour may be less prone to engage in photoprotective measures, including the use of sunscreens. Physicians are also less likely to prescribe sunscreens for them. There is thus a clear need for better education on photodamage and for more efficient and suitable photoprotection in populations with skin of colour. However, this need has thus far only partially been met, and the development of sunscreen products designed to provide optimal photoprotection for people with skin of colour remains a challenge. Targeted sunscreens for individuals with skin of colour require optimal cosmetic appeal (leaving no white residue and not disrupting skin tone). They should include broad-spectrum [ultraviolet (UV)B/UVA] protection with high sun protection factor, as well as protection against long-wave UVA (UVA1) and visible light, as these wavelengths are capable of inducing or augmenting pigmentary disorders. They may also contain depigmenting agents for patients with pigmentary disorders.

Neuroendocrine signaling in the skin with a special focus on the epidermal neuropeptides

The skin, which is comprised of the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue, is the largest organ in the human body and it plays a crucial role in the regulation of the body's homeostasis. These functions are regulated by local neuroendocrine and immune systems with a plethora of signaling molecules produced by resident and immune cells. In addition, neurotransmitters, endocrine factors, neuropeptides, and cytokines released from nerve endings play a central role in the skin's responses to stress. These molecules act on the corresponding receptors in an intra-, juxta-, para-, or autocrine fashion. The epidermis as the outer most component of skin forms a barrier directly protecting against environmental stressors. This protection is assured by an intrinsic keratinocyte differentiation program, pigmentary system, and local nervous, immune, endocrine, and microbiome elements. These constituents communicate cross-functionally among themselves and with corresponding systems in the dermis and hypodermis to secure the basic epidermal functions to maintain local (skin) and global (systemic) homeostasis. The neurohormonal mediators and cytokines used in these communications regulate physiological skin functions separately or in concert. Disturbances in the functions in these systems lead to cutaneous pathology that includes inflammatory (i.e., psoriasis, allergic, or atopic dermatitis, etc.) and keratinocytic hyperproliferative disorders (i.e., seborrheic and solar keratoses), dysfunction of adnexal structure (i.e., hair follicles, eccrine, and sebaceous glands), hypersensitivity reactions, pigmentary disorders (vitiligo, melasma, and hypo- or hyperpigmentary responses), premature aging, and malignancies (melanoma and nonmelanoma skin cancers). These cellular, molecular, and neural components preserve skin integrity and protect against skin pathologies and can act as "messengers of the skin" to the central organs, all to preserve organismal survival.

Melasma: The need for tailored photoprotection to improve clinical outcomes

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Melasma is a frequent photoexacerbated hyperpigmentary disorder, which can significantly impact on the quality of life. We sought to review the pathogenesis of melasma, and the role of photoprotection in the prevention and treatment of this disorder.

METHODS

We conducted a narrative review of the literature. We performed literature searches with PubMed from January 1990 to December 2021 using the keywords "melasma," "pathogenesis," "ultraviolet radiation," "visible light," "photoprotection," and "sunscreens."

RESULTS

The physiopathology of melasma includes a complex interaction between genetics, sex hormones, and sun exposure. Visible light, in particular high-energy visible light (HEVL), and long-wave UVA (UVA1) play a key role in melasma pathophysiology, and recent research suggests that melasma shares many features with photoaging disorders. Melasma disproportionately affects dark-skinned individuals. Some 30% to 50% of South Americans and Asians, among other ethnicities, can present with melasma. Dark-skinned patients take fewer photoprotective measures. Also, the majority of melasma patients do not adequately follow photoprotection recommendations, including the application of sunscreen. Intensive use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen can prevent melasma in high-risk individuals, can lessen melasma severity (associated or not with depigmenting agents), and can reduce relapses.

CONCLUSIONS

Due to the physiopathology of melasma, sunscreens should be broad-spectrum with high sun protection factor, and provide high protection against UVA1 and VL. Sunscreens should be cosmetically acceptable and leave no white residue. Tinted sunscreens are an excellent choice, as pigments can protect from HEVL and UVA1, and may provide camouflage, but they must offer colors that match the skin tone of each patient.

Recognition of Melanocytes in Immuno-Neuroendocrinology and Circadian Rhythms: Beyond the Conventional Melanin Synthesis

Melanocytes produce melanin to protect the skin from UV-B radiation. Notwithstanding, the spectrum of their functions extends far beyond their well-known role as melanin production factories. Melanocytes have been considered as sensory and computational cells. The neurotransmitters, neuropeptides, and other hormones produced by melanocytes make them part of the skin’s well-orchestrated and complex neuroendocrine network, counteracting environmental stressors. Melanocytes can also actively mediate the epidermal immune response. Melanocytes are equipped with ectopic sensory systems similar to the eye and nose and can sense light and odor. The ubiquitous inner circadian rhythm controls the body’s basic physiological processes. Light not only affects skin photoaging, but also regulates inner circadian rhythms and communicates with the local neuroendocrine system. Do melanocytes “see” light and play a unique role in photoentrainment of the local circadian clock system? Why, then, are melanocytes responsible for so many mysterious functions? Do these complex functional devices work to maintain homeostasis locally and throughout the body? In addition, melanocytes have also been shown to be localized in internal sites such as the inner ear, brain, and heart, locations not stimulated by sunlight. Thus, what can the observation of extracutaneous melanocytes tell us about the “secret identity” of melanocytes? While the answers to some of these intriguing questions remain to be discovered, here we summarize and weave a thread around available data to explore the established and potential roles of melanocytes in the biological communication of skin and systemic homeostasis, and elaborate on important open issues and propose ways forward.

Laundry detergent promotes allergic skin inflammation and esophageal eosinophilia in mice

The prevalence of allergic diseases is on the rise, yet the environmental factors that contribute to this increase are still being elucidated. Laundry detergent (LD) that contains cytotoxic ingredients including microbial enzymes continuously comes into contact with the skin starting in infancy. An impaired skin barrier has been suggested as a route of allergic sensitization. We hypothesized that exposure of skin to LD damages the skin barrier resulting in systemic sensitization to allergens that enter through the impaired skin barrier. Mouse skin samples exposed in vitro to microbial proteases or LD exhibited physical damage, which was more pronounced in neonatal skin as compared to adult skin. Exposure of the skin to microbial proteases in vitro resulted in an increase in the levels of interleukin (IL)-33 and thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP). BALB/c wild type mice epicutaneously exposed to LD and ovalbumin (OVA) showed an increase in levels of transepidermal water loss, serum OVA-specific immunoglobulin (Ig) G1 and IgE antibodies, and a local increase of Il33, Tslp, Il4 and Il13 compared with LD or OVA alone. Following intranasal challenge with OVA, mice epicutaneously exposed to LD showed an increase in allergen-induced esophageal eosinophilia compared with LD or OVA alone. Collectively, these results suggest that LD may be an important factor that impairs the skin barrier and leads to allergen sensitization in early life, and therefore may have a role in the increase in allergic disease.

The evolution of human skin pigmentation involved the interactions of genetic, environmental, and cultural variables

The primary biological role of human skin pigmentation is as a mediator of penetration of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) into the deep layers of skin and the cutaneous circulation. Since the origin of Homo sapiens, dark, protective constitutive pigmentation and strong tanning abilities have been favored under conditions of high UVR and represent the baseline condition for modern humans. The evolution of partly depigmented skin and variable tanning abilities has occurred multiple times in prehistory, as populations have dispersed into environments with lower and more seasonal UVR regimes, with unique complements of genes and cultural practices. The evolution of extremes of dark pigmentation and depigmentation has been rare and occurred only under conditions of extremely high or low environmental UVR, promoted by positive selection on variant pigmentation genes followed by limited gene flow. Over time, the evolution of human skin pigmentation has been influenced by the nature and course of human dispersals and modifications of cultural practices, which have modified the nature and actions of skin pigmentation genes. Throughout most of prehistory and history, the evolution of human skin pigmentation has been a contingent and non-deterministic process.

The color of normal: How a Eurocentric focus erases pigmentation complexity

OBJECTIVES

Skin pigmentation is both a highly variable and highly visible human phenotypic trait. Investigations into the biology and origins of this variation have been the focus of research in the fields of dermatology, anthropology, and forensic science, among others. This manuscript explores how much of what we know about the biology, genetics, and evolutionary origins of pigmentation has been strongly influenced by investigations and applications that focus on lighter skin.

METHODS

I reviewed literature from the fields of dermatology, anthropology and evolutionary genetics, and forensic science to assess how perceptions of lighter skin as the "normal" state in humans can shape the ways that knowledge is gathered and applied in these fields.

RESULTS

This normalization of lighter skin has impacted common tools used in dermatology and shaped the framework of dermatological education. A strong Eurocentric bias has shaped our understanding of the genetic architecture of pigmentary traits, which influences the ways in we understand the evolutionary processes leading to modern pigmentation diversity. Finally, I discuss how these biases in pigmentation genetics work in combination with phenotypic systems that privilege predicting lighter pigmentation variation to impede accurate prediction of intermediate phenotypes, particularly in individuals with ancestry from multiple populations. This can lead to a disproportionate targeting of already over-policed populations with darker skin.

CONCLUSIONS

Potential changes to how we conceptualize clinical and basic pigmentation research may help to reduce existing health disparities and improve understanding of pigmentation genetic architecture and how this knowledge is applied in forensic contexts.

Characterization of serotonin and N-acetylserotonin systems in the human epidermis and skin cells

Tryptophan hydroxylase (TPH) activity was detected in cultured epidermal melanocytes and dermal fibroblasts with respective Km of 5.08 and 2.83 mM and Vmax of 80.5 and 108.0 µmol/min. Low but detectable TPH activity was also seen in cultured epidermal keratinocytes. Serotonin and/or its metabolite and precursor to melatonin, N-acetylserotonin (NAS), were identified by LC/MS in human epidermis and serum. Endogenous epidermal levels were 113.18 ± 13.34 and 43.41 ± 12.45 ng/mg protein for serotonin (n = 8/8) and NAS (n = 10/13), respectively. Their production was independent of race, gender, and age. NAS was also detected in human serum (n = 13/13) at a concentration 2.44 ± 0.45 ng/mL, while corresponding serotonin levels were 295.33 ± 17.17 ng/mL (n = 13/13). While there were no differences in serum serotonin levels, serum NAS levels were slightly higher in females. Immunocytochemistry studies showed localization of serotonin to epidermal and follicular keratinocytes, eccrine glands, mast cells, and dermal fibrocytes. Endogenous production of serotonin in cultured melanocytes, keratinocytes, and dermal fibroblasts was modulated by UVB. In conclusion, serotonin and NAS are produced endogenously in the epidermal, dermal, and adnexal compartments of human skin and in cultured skin cells. NAS is also detectable in human serum. Both serotonin and NAS inhibited melanogenesis in human melanotic melanoma at concentrations of 10^-4 -10^-3  M. They also inhibited growth of melanocytes. Melanoma cells were resistant to NAS inhibition, while serotonin inhibited cell growth only at 10^-3  M. In summary, we characterized a serotonin-NAS system in human skin that is a part of local neuroendocrine system regulating skin homeostasis.

Evolution, Prehistory and Vitamin D

Aspects of human evolutionary biology and prehistory are discussed in relation to vitamin D. The evolution of hairlessness, combined with the need for efficient eccrine sweat production for cooling, provided evolutionary pressure to protect the skin from ultraviolet damage by developing cutaneous pigmentation. There was a subsequent loss of pigmentation as humans journeyed to northern latitudes. Their increasing mastery of technology outstripped evolution's finite pace as further dispersal occurred around the globe. A timeline for the development of clothing to provide warmth, and the consequent shielding from ultraviolet light, which diminished vitamin D synthesis, can be inferred by an examination of mutations in the human louse.

By protecting against cutaneous inflammation, epidermal pigmentation provided an additional advantage for ancestral humans

Pigmentation evolved in ancestral humans to protect against toxic, ultraviolet B irradiation, but the question remains: "what is being protected?" Because humans with dark pigmentation display a suite of superior epidermal functions in comparison with their more lightly pigmented counterparts, we hypothesized and provided evidence that dark pigmentation evolved in Africa to support cutaneous function. Because our prior clinical studies also showed that a restoration of a competent barrier dampens cutaneous inflammation, we hypothesized that resistance to inflammation could have provided pigmented hominins with yet another, important evolutionary benefit. We addressed this issue here in two closely related strains of hairless mice, endowed with either moderate (Skh2/J) or absent (Skh1) pigmentation. In these models, we showed that (a) pigmented mice display a markedly reduced propensity to develop inflammation after challenges with either a topical irritant or allergen in comparison with their nonpigmented counterparts; (b) visible and histologic evidence of inflammation was paralleled by reduced levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines (i.e., IL-1α and INFα); (c) because depigmentation of Skh2/J mouse skin enhanced both visible inflammation and pro-inflammatory cytokine levels after comparable pro-inflammatory challenges, the reduced propensity to develop inflammation was directly linked to the presence of pigmentation; and (d) furthermore, in accordance with our prior work showing that pigment production endows benefits by reducing the surface pH of skin, acidification of albino (Skh1) mouse skin also protected against inflammation, and equalized cytokine levels to those found in pigmented skin. In summary, pigmentation yields a reduced propensity to develop inflammation, consistent with our hypothesis that dark pigmentation evolved in ancestral humans to provide a suite of barrier-linked benefits that now include resistance to inflammation.

Facial skin mapping: from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types

Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer a perfect solution to satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups. The paucity of data for the underlying cellular and biochemical problems in, and the effects of moisturisers on photodamaged facial skin may partly explain this. Mainly, single point measurements are used to understand the effects of products on skin physiology even on surrogate skin sites such as the non‐photodamaged volar forearm. Some groups have developed discontinuous facial maps of skin biophysical properties, however, in 2014 a continuous facial analysis of bio‐instrumental evaluations was developed using a heat map approach. These maps enabled a continuous visualization of features that not only revealed an unexpected complexity of facial skin but also indicated that use of surrogate skin sites for facial skin is inappropriate. We have demonstrated that remarkable gradients of skin hydration, TEWL, skin surface pH and sebum exist within short distances across the face and the gradients are distinctive among different ethnic groups. In addition, these studies have demonstrated that darkly‐pigmented individuals do not necessarily have a better skin barrier function than their less‐pigmented counterparts and that Caucasians have a lower facial skin surface pH compared with more pigmented subjects. Overall, there are no correlations between capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH including individual topology angle values. Novel 3D camera approaches have also been used to facilitate a more precise assignment of measurement sites and visualisation. The 3D facial colour mappings illustrated precisely the local moisturising effects of a moisturising cream. There were subtle ethnic differences in efficacy that may be related to underlying skin biochemistry and/or ethnic differences in product application. A placebo‐controlled study using conductance measurements in Chinese subjects is also reported. Finally, a new whole face statistical approach has been taken to prove differences in skin parameters but also of moisturiser treatment that adds further to our understanding of the ethnic differences in skin physiology and product application. This paper reviews the background of the development and application of this methodology.

Shades of complexity: New perspectives on the evolution and genetic architecture of human skin

Like many highly variable human traits, more than a dozen genes are known to contribute to the full range of skin color. However, the historical bias in favor of genetic studies in European and European-derived populations has blinded us to the magnitude of pigmentation's complexity. As deliberate efforts are being made to better characterize diverse global populations and new sequencing technologies, better measurement tools, functional assessments, predictive modeling, and ancient DNA analyses become more widely accessible, we are beginning to appreciate how limited our understanding of the genetic bases of human skin color have been. Novel variants in genes not previously linked to pigmentation have been identified and evidence is mounting that there are hundreds more variants yet to be found. Even for genes that have been exhaustively characterized in European populations like MC1R, OCA2, and SLC24A5, research in previously understudied groups is leading to a new appreciation of the degree to which genetic diversity, epistatic interactions, pleiotropy, admixture, global and local adaptation, and cultural practices operate in population-specific ways to shape the genetic architecture of skin color. Furthermore, we are coming to terms with how factors like tanning response and barrier function may also have influenced selection on skin throughout human history. By examining how our knowledge of pigmentation genetics has shifted in the last decade, we can better appreciate how far we have come in understanding human diversity and the still long road ahead for understanding many complex human traits.

Melatonin, mitochondria, and the skin

The skin being a protective barrier between external and internal (body) environments has the sensory and adaptive capacity to maintain local and global body homeostasis in response to noxious factors. An important part of the skin response to stress is its ability for melatonin synthesis and subsequent metabolism through the indolic and kynuric pathways. Indeed, melatonin and its metabolites have emerged as indispensable for physiological skin functions and for effective protection of a cutaneous homeostasis from hostile environmental factors. Moreover, they attenuate the pathological processes including carcinogenesis and other hyperproliferative/inflammatory conditions. Interestingly, mitochondria appear to be a central hub of melatonin metabolism in the skin cells. Furthermore, substantial evidence has accumulated on the protective role of the melatonin against ultraviolet radiation and the attendant mitochondrial dysfunction. Melatonin and its metabolites appear to have a modulatory impact on mitochondrion redox and bioenergetic homeostasis, as well as the anti-apoptotic effects. Of note, some metabolites exhibit even greater impact than melatonin alone. Herein, we emphasize that melatonin-mitochondria axis would control integumental functions designed to protect local and perhaps global homeostasis. Given the phylogenetic origin and primordial actions of melatonin, we propose that the melatonin-related mitochondrial functions represent an evolutionary conserved mechanism involved in cellular adaptive response to skin injury and repair.

The colours of humanity: the evolution of pigmentation in the human lineage

Humans are a colourful species of primate, with human skin, hair and eye coloration having been influenced by a great variety of evolutionary forces throughout prehistory. Functionally naked skin has been the physical interface between the physical environment and the human body for most of the history of the genus Homo, and hence skin coloration has been under intense natural selection. From an original condition of protective, dark, eumelanin-enriched coloration in early tropical-dwelling Homo and Homo sapiens, loss of melanin pigmentation occurred under natural selection as Homo sapiens dispersed into non-tropical latitudes of Africa and Eurasia. Genes responsible for skin, hair and eye coloration appear to have been affected significantly by population bottlenecks in the course of Homo sapiens dispersals. Because specific skin colour phenotypes can be created by different combinations of skin colour-associated genetic markers, loss of genetic variability due to genetic drift appears to have had negligible effects on the highly redundant genetic 'palette' for the skin colour. This does not appear to have been the case for hair and eye coloration, however, and these traits appear to have been more strongly influenced by genetic drift and, possibly, sexual selection.This article is part of the themed issue 'Animal coloration: production, perception, function and application'.

Stress-related skin disorders

Emerging research has suggested that the skin is not only a target of organismal distress but also an active participant of the stress response through production of local "HPA axis" components, peripheral nerve endings, and resident skin cells, including keratinocytes, mast cells, and immune/immune accessory cells. There are also bidirectional communication pathways between the brain and the skin, which play significant roles in integrating these interactions. In this review, we summarize the intricate relations between stress and several skin conditions. We have tried to identify the underlying mechanisms that link stress to the common dermatoses according to the latest scientific findings.

Basis for the gain and subsequent dilution of epidermal pigmentation during human evolution: The barrier and metabolic conservation hypotheses revisited

The evolution of human skin pigmentation must address both the initial evolution of intense epidermal pigmentation in hominins, and its subsequent dilution in modern humans. While many authorities believe that epidermal pigmentation evolved to protect against either ultraviolet B (UV-B) irradiation-induced mutagenesis or folic acid photolysis, we hypothesize that pigmentation augmented the epidermal barriers by shifting the UV-B dose-response curve from toxic to beneficial. Whereas erythemogenic UV-B doses produce apoptosis and cell death, suberythemogenic doses benefit permeability and antimicrobial function. Heavily melanized melanocytes acidify the outer epidermis and emit paracrine signals that augment barrier competence. Modern humans, residing in the cooler, wetter climes of south-central Europe and Asia, initially retained substantial pigmentation. While their outdoor lifestyles still permitted sufficient cutaneous vitamin D3 (VD3) synthesis, their marginal nutritional status, coupled with cold-induced caloric needs, selected for moderate pigment reductions that diverted limited nutritional resources towards more urgent priorities (=metabolic conservation). The further pigment-dilution that evolved as humans reached north-central Europe (i.e., northern France, Germany), likely facilitated cutaneous VD3 synthesis, while also supporting ongoing, nutritional requirements. But at still higher European latitudes where little UV-B breaches the atmosphere (i.e., present-day UK, Scandinavia, Baltic States), pigment dilution alone could not suffice. There, other nonpigment-related mutations evolved to facilitate VD3 production; for example, in the epidermal protein, filaggrin, resulting in reduced levels of its distal metabolite, trans-urocanic acid, a potent UV-B chromophore. Thus, changes in human pigmentation reflect a complex interplay between latitude, climate, diet, lifestyle, and shifting metabolic priorities.

Skin Pigmentation and Pigmentary Disorders: Focus on Epidermal/Dermal Cross-Talk

Variation in human skin and hair color is the most notable aspect of human variability and several studies in evolution, genetics and developmental biology contributed to explain the mechanisms underlying human skin pigmentation, which is responsible for differences in skin color across the world's populations. Despite skin pigmentation is primarily related to melanocytes functionality, the surrounding keratinocytes and extracellular matrix proteins and fibroblasts in the underlying dermal compartment actively contribute to cutaneous homeostasis. Many autocrine/paracrine secreted factors and cell adhesion mechanisms involving both epidermal and dermal constituents determine constitutive skin pigmentation and, whenever deregulated, the occurrence of pigmentary disorders. In particular, an increased expression of such mediators and their specific receptors frequently lead to hyperpigmentary conditions, such as in melasma and in solar lentigo, whereas a defect in their expression/release is related to hypopigmented disorders, as seen in vitiligo. All these interactions underline the relevant role of pigmentation on human evolution and biology.

Facial skin pigmentation is not related to stratum corneum cohesion, basal transepidermal water loss, barrier integrity and barrier repair

OBJECTIVE

Hypotheses have been developed for the evolutionary selection of skin pigmentation one of which relates to improved skin barrier function. The aim of this study was to compare facial skin condition on photoexposed (cheek) and photoprotected (post-auricular) sites of naturally pigmented subjects of different ethnicities (Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II/III and V/VI) and Albino African subjects to understand better the relationship between facial stratum corneum (SC) barrier function, skin surface pH and skin pigmentation.

METHODS

Expert grading of skin conditions, capacitance, skin surface pH and skin barrier function measurements were performed. For the latter, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements before (basal TEWL), after 3, 6 and 9 consecutive tape strippings (SC integrity) and 3.5 and 24 h post tape stripping (barrier recovery) were taken. Amounts of SC protein removed during stripping were estimated using infrared densitometry (SC cohesion).

RESULTS

Firstly, correlation analysis of the biometric data of the Black African and Caucasian subjects showed there to be no relationship between skin surface pH and ITA° values nor pH and ITA° with basal TEWL. Neither skin surface pH nor ITA° correlated with SC integrity and barrier recovery measurements, but skin surface pH correlated with SC cohesion. ITA° values were correlated with skin hydration. Secondly, on comparing the three ethnic groups, severe skin photodamage was observed in the Albino African subjects and their SC was thicker. Whereas their basal TEWL was elevated, superior values for SC integrity and barrier recovery were measured. No differences in basal TEWL, SC integrity and barrier recovery were found between the other two subject groups. Equally, SC cohesion and skin surface pH values were similar among the three groups.

CONCLUSION

There was no relationship between ITA° values and basal TEWL, SC integrity, SC cohesion and barrier recovery, but ITA° was correlated with skin hydration. Skin surface pH, irrespective of ITA° values, correlated with SC cohesion, indicating a greater intracorneal cohesion at lower pH values. Thus, pigmentation has no effect on SC barrier properties but was related to skin hydration. On comparing the three ethnic groups, Albino African SC was found to be superior to the Caucasian and Black African subjects in terms of SC integrity and barrier recovery but not basal TEWL. The Albino African subjects also have a thicker SC which contributes to their better SC integrity. No differences in skin barrier functionality or skin surface pH were observed for the other two groups. Skin hydration was, however, greatest in the Black African subjects. Our data support the evolutionary hypothesis that pigmentation protects the skin from UV irradiation and thereby the skin barrier but not the skin pigmentation-/pH-driven adaptive skin barrier hypothesis.

Basis for enhanced barrier function of pigmented skin

Humans with darkly pigmented skin display superior permeability barrier function in comparison with humans with lightly pigmented skin. The reduced pH of the stratum corneum (SC) of darkly pigmented skin could account for enhanced function, because acidifying lightly pigmented human SC resets barrier function to darkly pigmented levels. In SKH1 (nonpigmented) versus SKH2/J (pigmented) hairless mice, we evaluated how a pigment-dependent reduction in pH could influence epidermal barrier function. Permeability barrier homeostasis is enhanced in SKH2/J versus SKH1 mice, correlating with a reduced pH in the lower SC that colocalizes with the extrusion of melanin granules. Darkly pigmented human epidermis also shows substantial melanin extrusion in the outer epidermis. Both acute barrier disruption and topical basic pH challenges accelerate reacidification of SKH2/J (but not SKH1) SC, while inducing melanin extrusion. SKH2/J mice also display enhanced expression of the SC acidifying enzyme, secretory phospholipase A2f (sPLA2f). Enhanced barrier function of SKH2/J mice could be attributed to enhanced activity of two acidic pH-dependent, ceramide-generating enzymes, β-glucocerebrosidase and acidic sphingomyelinase, leading to accelerated maturation of SC lamellar bilayers. Finally, organotypic cultures of darkly pigmented human keratinocytes display enhanced barrier function in comparison with lightly pigmented cultures. Together, these results suggest that the superior barrier function of pigmented epidermis can be largely attributed to the pH-lowering impact of melanin persistence/extrusion and enhanced sPLA2f expression.

Cutaneous glucocorticosteroidogenesis: securing local homeostasis and the skin integrity

Human skin has the ability to synthesize glucocorticoids de novo from cholesterol or from steroid intermediates of systemic origin. By interacting with glucocorticoid receptors, they regulate skin immune functions as well as functions and phenotype of the epidermal, dermal and adnexal compartments. Most of the biochemical (enzyme and transporter activities) and regulatory (neuropeptides mediated activation of cAMP and protein kinase A dependent pathways) principles of steroidogenesis in the skin are similar to those operating in classical steroidogenic organs. However, there are also significant differences determined by the close proximity of synthesis and action (even within the same cells) allowing para-, auto- or intracrine modes of regulation. We also propose that ultraviolet light B (UVB) can regulate the availability of 7-dehydrocholesterol for transformation to cholesterol with its further metabolism to steroids, oxysterols or ∆7 steroids, because of its transformation to vitamin D3. In addition, UVB can rearrange locally produced ∆7 steroids to the corresponding secosteroids with a short- or no-side chain. Thus, different mechanisms of regulation occur in the skin that can be either stochastic or structuralized. We propose that local glucocorticosteroidogenic systems and their regulators, in concert with cognate receptors operate to stabilize skin homeostasis and prevent or attenuate skin pathology.

Was skin cancer a selective force for black pigmentation in early hominin evolution?

Melanin provides a crucial filter for solar UV radiation and its genetically determined variation influences both skin pigmentation and risk of cancer. Genetic evidence suggests that the acquisition of a highly stable melanocortin 1 receptor allele promoting black pigmentation arose around the time of savannah colonization by hominins at some 1-2 Ma. The adaptive significance of dark skin is generally believed to be protection from UV damage but the pathologies that might have had a deleterious impact on survival and/or reproductive fitness, though much debated, are uncertain. Here, I suggest that data on age-associated cancer incidence and lethality in albinos living at low latitudes in both Africa and Central America support the contention that skin cancer could have provided a potent selective force for the emergence of black skin in early hominins.

Key role of CRF in the skin stress response system

The discovery of corticotropin-releasing factor (CRF) or CRH defining the upper regulatory arm of the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis, along with the identification of the corresponding receptors (CRFRs 1 and 2), represents a milestone in our understanding of central mechanisms regulating body and local homeostasis. We focused on the CRF-led signaling systems in the skin and offer a model for regulation of peripheral homeostasis based on the interaction of CRF and the structurally related urocortins with corresponding receptors and the resulting direct or indirect phenotypic effects that include regulation of epidermal barrier function, skin immune, pigmentary, adnexal, and dermal functions necessary to maintain local and systemic homeostasis. The regulatory modes of action include the classical CRF-led cutaneous equivalent of the central HPA axis, the expression and function of CRF and related peptides, and the stimulation of pro-opiomelanocortin peptides or cytokines. The key regulatory role is assigned to the CRFR-1α receptor, with other isoforms having modulatory effects. CRF can be released from sensory nerves and immune cells in response to emotional and environmental stressors. The expression sequence of peptides includes urocortin/CRF→pro-opiomelanocortin→ACTH, MSH, and β-endorphin. Expression of these peptides and of CRFR-1α is environmentally regulated, and their dysfunction can lead to skin and systemic diseases. Environmentally stressed skin can activate both the central and local HPA axis through either sensory nerves or humoral factors to turn on homeostatic responses counteracting cutaneous and systemic environmental damage. CRF and CRFR-1 may constitute novel targets through the use of specific agonists or antagonists, especially for therapy of skin diseases that worsen with stress, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.

Global patterns of diversity and selection in human tyrosinase gene

Global variation in skin pigmentation is one of the most striking examples of environmental adaptation in humans. More than two hundred loci have been identified as candidate genes in model organisms and a few tens of these have been found to be significantly associated with human skin pigmentation in genome-wide association studies. However, the evolutionary history of different pigmentation genes is rather complex: some loci have been subjected to strong positive selection, while others evolved under the relaxation of functional constraints in low UV environment. Here we report the results of a global study of the human tyrosinase gene, which is one of the key enzymes in melanin production, to assess the role of its variation in the evolution of skin pigmentation differences among human populations. We observe a higher rate of non-synonymous polymorphisms in the European sample consistent with the relaxation of selective constraints. A similar pattern was previously observed in the MC1R gene and concurs with UV radiation-driven model of skin color evolution by which mutations leading to lower melanin levels and decreased photoprotection are subject to purifying selection at low latitudes while being tolerated or even favored at higher latitudes because they facilitate UV-dependent vitamin D production. Our coalescent date estimates suggest that the non-synonymous variants, which are frequent in Europe and North Africa, are recent and have emerged after the separation of East and West Eurasian populations.

Exploring signatures of positive selection in pigmentation candidate genes in populations of East Asian ancestry

Background

Currently, there is very limited knowledge about the genes involved in normal pigmentation variation in East Asian populations. We carried out a genome-wide scan of signatures of positive selection using the 1000 Genomes Phase I dataset, in order to identify pigmentation genes showing putative signatures of selective sweeps in East Asia. We applied a broad range of methods to detect signatures of selection including: 1) Tests designed to identify deviations of the Site Frequency Spectrum (SFS) from neutral expectations (Tajima’s D, Fay and Wu’s H and Fu and Li’s D* and F*), 2) Tests focused on the identification of high-frequency haplotypes with extended linkage disequilibrium (iHS and Rsb) and 3) Tests based on genetic differentiation between populations (LSBL). Based on the results obtained from a genome wide analysis of 25 kb windows, we constructed an empirical distribution for each statistic across all windows, and identified pigmentation genes that are outliers in the distribution.

Results

Our tests identified twenty genes that are relevant for pigmentation biology. Of these, eight genes (ATRN, EDAR, KLHL7, MITF, OCA2, TH, TMEM33 and TRPM1,) were extreme outliers (top 0.1% of the empirical distribution) for at least one statistic, and twelve genes (ADAM17, BNC2, CTSD, DCT, EGFR, LYST, MC1R, MLPH, OPRM1, PDIA6, PMEL (SILV) and TYRP1) were in the top 1% of the empirical distribution for at least one statistic. Additionally, eight of these genes (BNC2, EGFR, LYST, MC1R, OCA2, OPRM1, PMEL (SILV) and TYRP1) have been associated with pigmentary traits in association studies.

Conclusions

We identified a number of putative pigmentation genes showing extremely unusual patterns of genetic variation in East Asia. Most of these genes are outliers for different tests and/or different populations, and have already been described in previous scans for positive selection, providing strong support to the hypothesis that recent selective sweeps left a signature in these regions. However, it will be necessary to carry out association and functional studies to demonstrate the implication of these genes in normal pigmentation variation.

Metabolism of melatonin and biological activity of intermediates of melatoninergic pathway in human skin cells

Indolic and kynuric pathways of skin melatonin metabolism were monitored by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry in human keratinocytes, melanocytes, dermal fibroblasts, and melanoma cells. Production of 6-hydroxymelatonin [6(OH)M], N(1)-acetyl-N(2)-formyl-5-methoxykynuramine (AFMK) and 5-methoxytryptamine (5-MT) was detected in a cell type-dependent fashion. The major metabolites, 6(OH)M and AFMK, were produced in all cells. Thus, in immortalized epidermal (HaCaT) keratinocytes, 6(OH)M was the major product with Vmax = 63.7 ng/10(6) cells and Km = 10.2 μM, with lower production of AFMK and 5-MT. Melanocytes, keratinocytes, and fibroblasts transformed melatonin primarily into 6(OH)M and AFMK. In melanoma cells, 6(OH)M and AFMK were produced endogenously, a process accelerated by exogenous melatonin in the case of AFMK. In addition, N-acetylserotonin was endogenously produced by normal and malignant melanocytes. Metabolites showed selective antiproliferative effects on human primary epidermal keratinocytes in vitro. In ex vivo human skin, both melatonin and AFMK-stimulated expression of involucrin and keratins-10 and keratins-14 in the epidermis, indicating their stimulatory role in building and maintaining the epidermal barrier. In summary, the metabolism of melatonin and its endogenous production is cell type-dependent and expressed in all three main cell populations of human skin. Furthermore, melatonin and its metabolite AFMK stimulate differentiation in human epidermis, indicating their key role in building the skin barrier.

Human pigmentation genes under environmental selection

Genome-wide association studies and comparative genomics have established major loci and specific polymorphisms affecting human skin, hair and eye color. Environmental changes have had an impact on selected pigmentation genes as populations have expanded into different regions of the globe.

Cutaneous hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis homolog: regulation by ultraviolet radiation

The hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis maintains basal and stress-related homeostasis in vertebrates. Skin expresses all elements of the HPA axis including corticotropin-releasing hormone (CRH), proopiomelanocortin (POMC), ACTH, β-endorphin (β-END) with corresponding receptors, the glucocorticoidogenic pathway, and the glucocorticoid receptor (GR). To test the hypothesis that cutaneous responses to environmental stressors follow the organizational structure of the central response to stress, the activity of the "cutaneous HPA" axis homolog was investigated after exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) wavelengths of UVA (320-400 nm), UVB (280-320 nm), and UVC (100-280 nm) in human skin organ culture and in co-cultured keratinocytes/melanocytes. The level of stimulation of CRH, POMC, MC1R, MC2R, CYP11A1, and CYP11B1 genes was dependent on UV wavelengths and doses, with the highest effects observed for highly energetic UVC and UVB. ELISA and Western assays showed significant production of CRH, POMC, ACTH, and CYP11A1 proteins and of cortisol, with a decrease in GR expression only after UVB and UVC. However, β-END expression was also stimulated by UVA. Immunocytochemistry localized the deposition of the aforesaid antigens predominantly to the epidermis with additional accumulation of CRH, β-END, and ACTH in the dermis. UVR-stimulated CYP11A1 expression was seen in the basal layer of the epidermis and cells of adjacent dermis. Thus, the capacity to activate or change the spatial distribution of the cutaneous HPA axis elements is dependent on highly energetic wavelengths (UVC and UVB), implying a dependence of a local stress response on their noxious activity with overlapping or alternative mechanisms activated by UVA.