Rational Design and Synthesis of Efficient Sunscreens To Boost the Solar Protection Factor

Ring buckling and C=N isomerization pathways for efficient photoprotection in two nature-inspired UVA sunscreens revealed through ultrafast dynamics and high-level calculations

Sunscreens provide a frontline defense for our DNA against the damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The active ingredients in topically applied sunscreens that provide this defense are UV filters, which preferentially absorb or reflect UV radiation before it penetrates the skin and interacts with photosensitive nucleic acids. However, there are concerns related to human and environmental toxicity of current UV filters, and consequently a shift toward nature-inspired, particularly microbial, UV filters. In this paper, new physical insight is provided into the fundamental mechanisms of photoprotection in two synthetic analogs of mycosporine-like amino acid-type UV filters, demonstrating new methods of protection that are distinct from those of current commercial sunscreens, extending previous work in this area. Transient absorption measurements (both transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy) are combined with steady-state studies and high-level computational results to aid our mapping of the experimentally derived lifetimes to real-time photodynamic processes. The conclusions reached here pave the way toward developing new and more efficient biomimetic DNA photoprotectant materials.

The effects of UV filters on health and the environment

Sunscreens are an important means of protection against sunburns, dyspigmentation, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Sunscreens come in a variety of formulations that can protect against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation, both UVB and ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation (broad-spectrum sunscreens), and UVB, UVA, and visible light (tinted broad-spectrum sunscreens). In the USA, there is currently a paucity of FDA-approved broad-spectrum filters on the market. Studies have identified the presence of multiple UV filters in water sources globally. Many laboratory studies have implicated the potential impact of UV filters on coral reef bleaching, the food chain, and human health. However, many of these studies are performed at concentrations that are much higher than those present in the natural environment. With increasing discussion surrounding the role of organic and inorganic UV filters as potential environmental pollutants over the past decade, approval of additional broad-spectrum filters would be an important means of alleviating the use of more controversial filters. The aim of this article is to review the effects of UV filters on health and the environment and explore potential adjunctive agents for photoprotection.

New developments in sunscreens

Topical sunscreen application is one of the most important photoprotection tool to prevent sun damaging effects in human skin at the short and long term. Although its efficacy and cosmeticity have significantly improved in recent years, a better understanding of the biological and clinical effects of longer wavelength radiation, such as long ultraviolet A (UVA I) and blue light, has driven scientists and companies to search for effective and safe filters and substances to protect against these newly identified forms of radiation. New technologies have sought to imbue sunscreen with novel properties, such as the reduction of calorific radiation. Cutaneous penetration by sunscreens can also be reduced using hydrogels or nanocrystals that envelop the filters, or by binding filters to nanocarriers such as alginate microparticles, cyclodextrins, and methacrylate polymers. Finally, researchers have looked to nature as a source of healthier products, such as plant products (e.g., mycosporines, scytonemin, and various flavonoids) and even fungal and bacterial melanin, which could potentially be used as substitutes or enhancers of current filters.

Spectroscopic insight on impact of environment on natural photoprotectants

Biomimicry has become a key player in researching new materials for a whole range of applications. In this study, we have taken a crude extract from the red algae Palmaria palmata containing mycosporine-like amino acids - a photoprotective family of molecules. We have applied the crude extract onto a surface to assess if photoprotection, and more broadly, light-to-heat conversion, is retained; we found it is. Considering sunscreens as a specific application, we have performed transmission and reflection terahertz spectroscopy of the extract and glycerol to demonstrate how one can monitor stability in real-world applications.

Examining the substituent effect on mycosporine-inspired ultraviolet filters

Current organic ultraviolet (UV) filters found in sunscreen formulations suffer a number of drawbacks. In this work, we have synthesised four biomimetic molecules built on the mycosporine molecular scaffold (a natural UV filter) with varying substituents at one of the carbons on the ring and investigated their photoprotective properties. From our findings, we infer design guidelines which may have a direct result on the production of next generation UV filters.

Intrinsic Nature of the Ultrafast Deexcitation Pathway of Mycosporine-like Amino Acid Porphyra-334

Porphyra-334 is a member of natural UV-screening compounds named mycosporine-like amino acids found in several marine organisms. The UV excited porphyra-334 has been identified to deexcite quickly by puckering the intramolecular cyclohexenimine ring; however, the reason for such a ring-puckering occurrence is yet unclear. In this study, we show the ring-puckering to be the relaxation pathway of the UV excited π electron which shifts from the in-ring bond to the out-of-ring bond. The ring-puckering is characterized by the torsion among the in-ring and out-of-ring bonds. Since the π electron shift is possible in two different directions at the Franck-Condon UV excited state, it enables two ring-puckering pathways: the previously reported pathway and another one newly identified at present. We also examine the ring-unpuckering pathways which are an analogy of cis/trans photoisomerization, and we find them to be not suited for the π electron shift character of the UV excited state and thus not related to the deexcitation pathway. The present study provides insight into how porphyra-334 exerts the UV-screening ability based on its cyclohexenimine ring structure.

Genome Mining as an Alternative Way for Screening the Marine Organisms for Their Potential to Produce UV-Absorbing Mycosporine-like Amino Acid

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are small molecules with robust ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing capacities and a huge potential to be used as an environmentally friendly natural sunscreen. MAAs, temperature, and light-stable compounds demonstrate powerful photoprotective capacities and the ability to capture light in the UV-A and UV-B ranges without the production of damaging free radicals. The biotechnological uses of these secondary metabolites have been often limited by the small quantities restored from natural resources, variation in MAA expression profiles, and limited success in heterologous expression systems. Overcoming these obstacles requires a better understanding of MAA biosynthesis and its regulatory processes. MAAs are produced to a certain extent via a four-enzyme pathway, including genes encoding enzymes dehydroquinate synthase, enzyme O-methyltransferase, adenosine triphosphate grasp, and a nonribosomal peptide synthetase. However, there are substantial genetic discrepancies in the MAA genetic pathway in different species, suggesting further complexity of this pathway that is yet to be fully explored. In recent years, the application of genome-mining approaches allowed the identification of biosynthetic gene clusters (BGCs) that resulted in the discovery of many new compounds from unconventional sources. This review explores the use of novel genomics tools for linking BGCs and secondary metabolites based on the available omics data, including MAAs, and evaluates the potential of using novel genome-mining tools to reveal a cryptic potential for new bioproduct screening approaches and unrevealing new MAA producers.

Scalable Fabrication of Highly Breathable Cotton Textiles with Stable Fluorescent, Antibacterial, Hydrophobic, and UV-Blocking Performance

Multifunctional cotton textiles that are highly breathable are desirable in a broad range of applications. However, it is still a big challenge to scale up production of such multifunctional cotton textiles. Herein, we developed a simple, scalable, and benign strategy to fabricate highly breathable multifunctional cotton textiles via mild surface modification. The 1,4-dihydropyridine (DHP) ring and gentamycin sulfate (GS) molecules were firmly attached to the cellulose chains under room temperature via a one-pot method. The resulting modified cotton textile showed integrated performances with bright fluorescence, good antibacterial behavior, hydrophobic behavior (contact angle of 134°), and UV-blocking (UPF being up to 69.2), which are very stable toward washing and various solvents. There is no obvious change in the whiteness, thermal stability, and mechanical performance of cotton fabrics after the surface modification. What's more, the air permeability of the modified cotton fabric was up to 31.3 (cm3/cm2)/s. This study not only focuses on the materials design and large-scale fabrication but also provides stable and multifunctional cotton textiles with broad application prospects for many fields.

A Perspective on Femtosecond Pump-Probe Spectroscopy in the Development of Future Sunscreens

Given the negative impacts of overexposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on humans, sunscreens have become a widely used product. Certain ingredients within sunscreens are responsible for photoprotection and these are known, collectively herein, as ultraviolet (UV) filters. Generally speaking, organic UV filters work by absorbing the potentially harmful UVR and dissipating this energy as harmless heat. This process happens on picosecond time scales and so femtosecond pump–probe spectroscopy (FPPS) is an ideal technique for tracking this energy conversion in real time. Coupling FPPS with complementary techniques, including steady-state spectroscopy and computational methods, can provide a detailed mechanistic picture of how UV filters provide photoprotection. As such, FPPS is crucial in aiding the future design of UV filters. This Perspective sheds light on the advancements made over the past two years on both approved and nature-inspired UV filters. Moreover, we suggest where FPPS can be further utilized within sunscreen applications for future considerations.

Investigating the Ultrafast Dynamics and Long-Term Photostability of an Isomer Pair, Usujirene and Palythene, from the Mycosporine-like Amino Acid Family

Mycosporine-like amino acids are a prevalent form of photoprotection in micro- and macro-organisms. Using a combination of natural product extraction/purification and femtosecond transient absorption spectroscopy, we studied the relaxation pathway for a common mycosporine-like amino acid pair, usujirene and its geometric isomer palythene, in the first few nanoseconds following photoexcitation. Our studies show that the electronic excited state lifetimes of these molecules persist for only a few hundred femtoseconds before the excited state population is funneled through an energetically accessible conical intersection with subsequent vibrational energy transfer to the solvent. We found that a minor portion of the isomer pair did not recover to their original state within 3 ns after photoexcitation. We investigated the long-term photostability using continuous irradiation at a single wavelength and with a solar simulator to mimic a more real-life environment; high levels of photostability were observed in both experiments. Finally, we employed computational methods to elucidate the photochemical and photophysical properties of usujirene and palythene as well as to reconcile the photoprotective mechanism.

Elucidating the photoprotective properties of natural UV screening agents: ZEKE-PFI spectroscopy of methyl sinapate

As a prominent derivative of a natural sunscreen, methyl sinapate is an ideal candidate to provide fundamental insight into strategies on how to come to a rational design of artificial sunscreen filters with improved photoprotective properties. Here, static and time-resolved Zero Kinetic Energy-Pulsed Field Ionization (ZEKE-PFI) photoelectron spectroscopy has been used to study the spectroscopy and decay pathways of its electronically excited states. We find that different conformers are subject to distinct structural changes upon electronic excitation, and trace the structural changes that occur upon excitation back to the character of the LUMO. Ionization efficiency spectra in combination with pump-probe ZEKE-PFI spectra are consistent with the conclusion that the long-lived electronically excited state observed in the decay of the lowest excited singlet state is the lowest excited triplet state. Concurrently with providing information on the electronically excited states, the studies allow for a detailed characterization of the spectroscopic properties of the ground state of the radical ion, which is important in the context of the use of cinnamates in nature as antioxidants. Our studies determine the adiabatic ionization energies of the syn/cis, anti/cis and anti/trans conformers as 60 291.1 ± 0.5, 60 366.9 ± 0.5 and 60 503.9 ± 1.0 cm^-1, respectively, and provide accurate vibrational fequencies of low-frequency modes of the molecular ion in its electronic ground state. Finally, the studies emphasize the important role of vibrational and electronic autoionization processes that start to dominate the ionization dynamics in non-rigid molecules of the present size.

Facile fabrication of a polyvinyl alcohol-based hydrophobic fluorescent film via the Hantzsch reaction for broadband UV protection

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light is harmful to human health. However, the traditional preparation of anti-UV films through the doping of UV absorbers leads to unstable products. Chemical modification of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) to fabricate functional derivatives expand the application of these materials. Herein, a 1,4-dihydropyridine (DHP) fluorescent ring with a conjugated structure as a strong UV-absorber group was introduced onto a polyvinyl alcohol acetoacetate (PVAA) film to improve its UV-blocking performance. Firstly, PVAA was prepared via transesterification using tert-butyl acetoacetate (t-BAA). Then, the Hantzsch reaction was carried out on the surface of the PVAA film at room temperature. The resulting film showed high transparency, bright fluorescence emission, good mechanical properties, and outstanding stability. The introduction of the hydrophobic carbon chain reduced the hydrophilicity and swelling capacity of the PVAA film. In addition, the conjugated structure endowed the fluorescent film with excellent UV-blocking performance, where almost 100% UVA and UVB spectra could be shielded. The UV-blocking properties of the prepared films were persistent when they were exposed to UV irradiation, solvents, and subjected to thermal treatment. This work presents a facile and environmentally-friendly strategy by which to fabricate a multifunctional PVA-based film, which holds great potential for application in the anti-counterfeiting and UV-blocking fields.

Illuminating the Effect of the Local Environment on the Performance of Organic Sunscreens: Insights From Laser Spectroscopy of Isolated Molecules and Complexes

Sunscreens are essential for protecting the skin from UV radiation, but significant questions remain about the fundamental molecular-level processes by which they operate. In this mini review, we provide an overview of recent advanced laser spectroscopic studies that have probed how the local, chemical environment of an organic sunscreen affects its performance. We highlight experiments where UV laser spectroscopy has been performed on isolated gas-phase sunscreen molecules and complexes. These experiments reveal how pH, alkali metal cation binding, and solvation perturb the geometric and hence electronic structures of sunscreen molecules, and hence their non-radiative decay pathways. A better understanding of how these interactions impact on the performance of individual sunscreens will inform the rational design of future sunscreens and their optimum formulations.

Mechanistic photophysics and photochemistry of unnatural bases and sunscreen molecules: insights from electronic structure calculations

Photophysics and photochemistry are basic subjects in the study of light-matter interactions and are ubiquitous in diverse fields such as biology, energy, materials, and environment. A full understanding of mechanistic photophysics and photochemistry underpins many recent advances and applications. This contribution first provides a short discussion on the theoretical calculation methods we have used in relevant studies, then we introduce our latest progress on the mechanistic photophysics and photochemistry of two classes of molecular systems, namely unnatural bases and sunscreens. For unnatural bases, we disclose the intrinsic driving forces for the ultrafast population to reactive triplet states, impacts of the position and degree of chalcogen substitutions, and the effects of complex environments. For sunscreen molecules, we reveal the photoprotection mechanisms that dissipate excess photon energy to the surroundings by ultrafast internal conversion to the ground state. Finally, relevant theoretical challenges and outlooks are discussed.

Biosynthesis and Heterologous Production of Mycosporine-Like Amino Acid Palythines

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a family of natural products that are produced by a variety of organisms for protection from ultraviolet damage. In this work, we combined different bioinformatic approaches to assess the distribution of the MAA biosynthesis and identified a putative gene cluster from Nostoc linckia NIES-25 that encodes a short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase and a nonheme iron(II)- and 2-oxoglutarate-dependent oxygenase (MysH) as potential new biosynthetic enzymes. Heterologous expression of refactored gene clusters in E. coli produced two known biosynthetic intermediates, 4-deoxygadusol and mycosporine-glycine, and three disubstituted MAA analogues, porphyra-334, shinorine, and mycosporine-glycine-alanine. Importantly, the disubstituted MAAs were converted into palythines by MysH. Furthermore, biochemical characterization revealed the substrate preference of recombinant MysD, a d-Ala-d-Ala ligase-like enzyme for the formation of disubstituted MAAs. Our study advances the biosynthetic understanding of an important family of natural UV photoprotectants and opens new opportunities to the development of next-generation sunscreens.

Exploring the Blueprint of Photoprotection in Mycosporine-like Amino Acids

Microorganisms require protection against the potentially damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation exposure. Photoprotection is, in part, provided by mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). Previous reports have proposed that nonradiative decay mediates the impressive photoprotection abilities of MAAs. In this letter, we present the first ultrafast dynamics study of two MAAs, shinorine and porphyra-334. We demonstrate that, in aqueous solution, these MAAs relax along their S₁ coordinates toward the S₁/S₀ conical intersection within a few hundred femtoseconds after photoexcitation and then traverse the conical intersection and vibrationally cool in approximately 1 ps through heat transfer to the solvent. This new insight allows a quintessential component of microbial life to be unraveled and informs the development of molecular photon-to-heat converters for a myriad of applications.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320 nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400 nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.

Preparation of Efficient Ultraviolet-Protective Transparent Coating by Using a Titanium-Containing Hybrid Oligomer

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is closely related to people's lives, but excess UV exposure has led to a series of problems. UV protection technology plays a vital role in our life. The most commonly adopted UV protection technology is to use UV-absorbing materials to make protective coatings, including sunscreen cream for human skin and sunscreen coating for materials. Conventional organic UV-protective coatings have low stability and are sensitive to heat, while inorganic UV-protective coating with highly efficient UV-protective performance usually need high processing temperatures and exhibit low transparency. Here, we report a Ti-PEG-Si cross-linked inorganic-organic hybrid material, which exhibits good UV-absorbing performance. By using these UV-absorbing materials, an efficient transparent UV-absorbing coating could be easily prepared at room temperature (298 K). The UV-absorbing coating is mainly composed of titanium and silicon connected by PEG200. PEG200 as a cross-linker can improve the UV-absorption performance of the coating and increase its visible light transmittance. At the same time, the existence of PEG200 can effectively increase the stability and elasticity of the coating and maintain its mechanical properties after UV irradiation. Furthermore, the coating could maintain highly UV-protective performance and could be transparent even after thermal treatment at high temperature (973 K). From this point of view, the hybrid materials have considerable application potential in next-generation UV protective coatings, especially with their utilization in heat-sensitive substrates or under high-temperature conditions.

Sensitized photo-oxidation of gadusol species mediated by singlet oxygen

Gadusols are efficient nature UV sunscreens with antioxidant capacity. The kinetics of the quenching reactions of singlet oxygen O₂(¹∆_g) by gadusol species was evaluated in aqueous solution as well as in the presence of direct charged micelles. Time-resolved phosphorescence detection of O₂(¹∆_g) indicated that gadusolate, the main species under biological pH, is a more efficient quencher than the enol form with a rate constant of ca. 1.3 × 10⁸ L mol^-1 s^-1. The deactivation proceeds via a collisional mechanism with clear dominance of chemical pathways, according to the rates of gadusol and oxygen consumptions, and typical photooxidation quantum yields of ca. 7%. The relative contributions of the chemical and physical quenching steps were not affected by the presence of anionic or cationic micelles emulating simple pseudo-biological environments. The products of the photo-oxidative quenching support a type II mechanism initiated by the addition of O₂(¹∆_g) to the C-C double bond of gadusolate. These results point to the relevance of considering the role of sacrifice antioxidant along with the UV-screening function for gadusol, particularly in the context of potential biotechnological applications of this natural molecule.

Computational and experimental characterization of novel ultraviolet filters

Many current ultraviolet filters present potential hazards both to humans and to the natural environment. As such there is a new impetus to develop, through intimate characterisation, ultraviolet filters for use in cosmeceuticals. Here we report a new class of organic molecules which have a strong absorption band across the ultraviolet-A and -B regions of the electromagnetic spectrum and high photostability. We have performed ultrafast transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and steady-state spectroscopies, alongside computational studies to track and manipulate photoprotection mechanisms. Our results present a potentially new generation of ultraviolet filters for use in commercial formulations.

Reinvestigating the Photoprotection Properties of a Mycosporine Amino Acid Motif

With the growing concern regarding commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters damaging the environment, there is an urgent need to discover new UV filters. A family of molecules called mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids (referred to as MAAs collectively) are synthesized by cyanobacteria, fungi and algae and act as the natural UV filters for these organisms. Mycosporines are formed of a cyclohexenone core structure while mycosporine-like amino acids are formed of a cyclohexenimine core structure. To better understand the photoprotection properties of MAAs, we implement a bottom-up approach by first studying a simple analog of an MAA, 3-aminocyclohex-2-en-1-one (ACyO). Previous experimental studies on ACyO using transient electronic absorption spectroscopy (TEAS) suggest that upon photoexcitation, ACyO becomes trapped in the minimum of an S₁ state, which persists for extended time delays (>2.5 ns). However, these studies were unable to establish the extent of electronic ground state recovery of ACyO within 2.5 ns due to experimental constraints. In the present studies, we have implemented transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy (as well as complementary TEAS) with Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and density functional theory to establish the extent of electronic ground state recovery of ACyO within this time window. We show that by 1.8 ns, there is >75% electronic ground state recovery of ACyO, with the remaining percentage likely persisting in the electronic excited state. Long-term irradiation studies on ACyO have shown that a small percentage degrades after 2 h of irradiation, plausibly due to some of the aforementioned trapped ACyO going on to form a photoproduct. Collectively, these studies imply that a base building block of MAAs already displays characteristics of an effective UV filter.

Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens.

Unravelling the Keto-Enol Tautomer Dependent Photochemistry and Degradation Pathways of the Protonated UVA Filter Avobenzone

Avobenzone (AB) is a widely used UVA filter known to undergo irreversible photodegradation. Here, we investigate the detailed pathways by which AB photodegrades by applying UV laser-interfaced mass spectrometry to protonated AB ions. Gas-phase infrared multiple-photon dissociation (IRMPD) spectra obtained with the free electron laser for infrared experiments, FELIX, (600–1800 cm^–1) are also presented to confirm the geometric structures. The UV gas-phase absorption spectrum (2.5–5 eV) of protonated AB contains bands that correspond to selective excitation of either the enol or diketo forms, allowing us to probe the resulting, tautomer-dependent photochemistry. Numerous photofragments (i.e., photodegradants) are directly identified for the first time, with m/z 135 and 161 dominating, and m/z 146 and 177 also appearing prominently. Analysis of the production spectra of these photofragments reveals that that strong enol to keto photoisomerism is occurring, and that protonation significantly disrupts the stability of the enol (UVA active) tautomer. Close comparison of fragment ion yields with the TD-DFT-calculated absorption spectra give detailed information on the location and identity of the dissociative excited state surfaces, and thus provide new insight into the photodegradation pathways of avobenzone, and photoisomerization of the wider class of β-diketone containing molecules.

A Randomized Study to Determine the Sun Protection Factor of Natural Pterostilbene from Pterocarpus Marsupium

Ultraviolet (UV) rays and its harmful effects have always been a concern to skin health. Sunscreen and sunblock prevent the harmful effects of UV radiation on the skin. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is an indication of the sun-protective capacity of an ingredient. There is an ever increasing interest in the cosmetic industry for developing novel functional ingredients from natural sources. The purpose of this study was to determine in-vitro and in vivo SPF of natural 90% pterostilbene extracted from the dried heartwood of Pterocarpus marsupium (Indian Kino). The SPF of purified pterostilbene and a formulation containing 0.4% pterostilbene was determined In Vitro using a UV spectrophotometer. Pterostilbene had an SPF of 21.73 ± 0.06, while the cream formulation had an SPF of 8.84 ± 0.01. The in vivo SPF of the 0.4% pterostilbene cream in humans was found to be 6.2 ± 1.30. Primary skin irritation tests in human subjects showed the formulation was safe and had no irritation potential. Pterostilbene was also found to have significant antioxidant activity as determined by free radical scavenging assays in vitro. These results suggest that natural pterostilbene is an antioxidant and shows SPF value both in-vitro and in the human clinical study and thus could be used as an ingredient in topical sun-protective formulations.

Unravelling photoprotection in microbial natural products

Mycosporine-like amino acids have long been known as a natural form of photoprotection for fungi and cyanobacteria. This review will highlight the key time-resolved experimental and theoretical techniques unravelling their photochemistry and photophysics, and directly link this to their use in commercial skin-care products, namely as sunscreen filters. Three case studies have been selected, each having aided advancement in this burgeoning field of research. We discuss these studies in the context of photoprotection and conclude by evaluating the necessary future steps towards translating the photochemistry and photophysics insight of these nature derived sunscreen filters to commercial application.

Photophysical characterization of new and efficient synthetic sunscreens

The photoprotective capabilities of a family of compounds have been investigated. Their relaxation mechanisms have been explored by fluorescence and transient absorption measurements, and the minimum energy relaxation pathways were modeled by CASSCF/CASPT2 methods. This study demonstrates their excellent properties as sunscreens, and provides novel mechanistic insights for the rational design of new species.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids for Skin Photoprotection

BACKGROUND

Excessive human exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) continues to be a major public health concern, with skin cancer rates increasing year on year. The major protective measure is the use of synthetic UVR filters formulated into sunscreens, but there is a growing concern that some of these chemicals cause damage to delicate marine ecosystems. One alternative is the use of biocompatible mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA), which occur naturally in a wide range of marine species. Their role within nature is mainly thought to be photoprotective. However, their potential for human photoprotection is largely understudied.

OBJECTIVE

To review the role of MAA in nature and assess their potential as natural sunscreens for human skin photoprotection.

METHOD

A literature review of all relevant papers was conducted.

CONCLUSION

MAA are natural photostable compounds that are thought to offer photoprotection to marine species. Initially thought of as protective based on their absorption properties in the solar UVR spectrum, it is clear that MAA are multifunctional photoprotective compounds acting as chemical and biological anti-oxidants. This suggests that MAA may offer a novel eco-friendly approach to human skin photoprotection. Most studies have been carried out in vitro and current data strongly suggest that MAA have potential for development as natural biocompatible sunscreens that protect against a diverse range of solar UVR induced adverse effects on human health.

Mapping the intrinsic absorption properties and photodegradation pathways of the protonated and deprotonated forms of the sunscreen oxybenzone

Sunscreens provide vital protection against the photodamaging effects of UV radiation, however, many fundamental questions remain about the detailed mechanisms by which they dissipate UV energy. One such issue is the extent to which the pH environment of an organic sunscreen molecule alters its effectiveness, both in terms of ability to absorb UV radiation, and also its potential to photodegrade. Here, we use gas-phase laser photodissociation spectroscopy for the first time to measure the intrinsic UVA-UVC absorption spectra and associated photodegradation products of protonated and deprotonated oxybenzone, away from the complications of bulk mixtures. Our results reveal that protonation state has a dramatic effect on the absorption and photodissociation properties of this sunscreen. While the UV absorption profile of oxybenzone is only modestly affected by protonation across the range from 400-216 nm, deprotonated oxybenzone displays a significantly modified absorption spectrum, with very low photoabsorption between 370-330 nm. Protonated oxybenzone primarily photofragments by rupture of the bonds on either side of the central carbonyl group, producing cationic fragments with m/z 151 and 105. Additional lower mass photofragments (e.g. m/z 95 and 77) are also observed. The production spectra for the photofragments from protonated oxybenzone fall into two distinct categories, which we discuss in the context of different excited state decay pathways. For deprotonated oxybenzone, the major photofragments observed are m/z 211 and 212, which are associated with the ejection of methane and the methyl free radical from the parent ion, respectively. Implications for the suitability of oxybenzone in its protonated and deprotonated forms as an optimum sunscreen molecule are discussed.

A Scalable, Combined-Batch, and Continuous-Flow Synthesis of a Bio-Inspired UV-B Absorber

A new, chromatography-free synthesis for the preparation of an experimental UV-B absorber is reported. A key step of the process is a one-pot partial reduction of a symmetrical imide with a sequential dehydration step. The synthesis uses several continuous-flow steps to increase sample throughput and was used to prepare sufficient material to support further testing activities in >99% purity.

Can we use on-the-fly quantum simulations to connect molecular structure and sunscreen action?

Direct MCTDH quantum dynamics simulations, with automatic active coordinate generation, applied to potential molecular sunscreens.

Use of Flavonoids and Cinnamates, the Main Photoprotectors with Natural Origin

Many pathological problems are initiated by ultraviolet radiation (UVR), such as skin cancer, the most commonly diagnosed cancer worldwide. The UVA (320–400 nm) and UVB (290–320 nm) wavelengths may cause effects such as photoaging, DNA damage, and a series of cellular alterations. The UVA radiation can damage the DNA, oxidize the lipids, and produce dangerous free radicals, which can cause inflammation, modify the gene expression in response to stress, and weaken the skin immune response. With a minor penetration, the UVB radiation is more harmful, being responsible for immediate damage. Ultraviolet radiation light emitted by the sun is considered necessary for the existence of life but cause radiation problems, especially in the skin. The photoprotective activities of plant extracts and isolated composts were evaluated by many reports, as well as the correlation of these compounds with the antioxidant activity. This review presents plant compounds with interest to the cosmetic industry to be used in sunscreens such as flavonoids and cinnamates.

Multifunctional Photostable Nanocomplex of ZnO Quantum Dots and Avobenzone via the Promotion of Enolate Tautomer

Ideal multifunctional ultraviolet radiation (UVR) absorbents with excellent photostability, high molar absorptivity, broadband UVR screening, and desired skin sensorial properties remain a significant challenge for the sunscreen industry. The potential of the nanocomplex (NCx) formed by microwave synthesis of ZnO quantum dots (QDs) in the presence of Avobenzone (Av) for achieving these goals is reported. The NCx exhibits unique synergy between ZnO QD and Av components, which enhances the photostability and molar absorptivity, extends UVA filtering range, and provides a visible emission that matches the typical human in vivo skin emission color. Density functional theory (DFT) and time-dependent DFT calculations of ZnO-Av hybrid structures and comparison of their spectroscopic features with experiments suggest that ZnO QDs catalyze the formation of highly photostable surface enolate species via aldol condensation reaction. The combination of experiments and computations used in this study can advance the science and technology of photoprotection.

Unravelling the Photoprotection Properties of Mycosporine Amino Acid Motifs

Photoprotection from harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is a key problem in modern society. Mycosporine-like amino acids found in fungi, cyanobacteria, macroalgae, phytoplankton, and animals are already presenting a promising form of natural photoprotection in sunscreen formulations. Using time-resolved transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and guided by complementary ab initio calculations, we help to unravel how the core structures of these molecules perform under UV irradiation. Through such detailed insight into the relaxation mechanisms of these ubiquitous molecules, we hope to inspire new thinking in developing next-generation photoprotective molecules.

From fundamental science to product: a bottom-up approach to sunscreen development

Despite the pivotal role of ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sustaining life on Earth, overexposure to this type of radiation can have catastrophic effects, such as skin cancer. Sunscreens, the most common form of artificial protection against such harmful effects, absorb UV radiation before it reaches vulnerable skin cells. Absorption of UV radiation prompts ultrafast molecular events in sunscreen molecules which, ideally, would allow for fast and safe dissipation of the excess energy. However, our knowledge of these mechanisms remains limited. In this article, we will review recent advances in the field of ultrafast photodynamics (light induced molecular processes occurring within femtoseconds, fs, 10-15 s to picoseconds, ps, 10-12 s) of sunscreens. We follow a bottom-up approach to common sunscreen active ingredients, analysing any emerging trends from the current literature on the subject. Moreover, we will identify the main questions that remain unanswered, pinpoint some of the main challenges and finally comment on the outlook of this exciting field of research.

Photochemistry and Photophysics of Shinorine Dimethyl Ester

The photostability and photophysical properties of the dimethyl ester of the mycosporine-like amino acid shinorine have been experimentally evaluated in aqueous solution and in the presence of direct micelles prepared with a cationic or an anionic detergent, respectively. In comparison with shinorine, the ester molecule increases the photostability, the fluorescence quantum yield and the fluorescence lifetime in water as well as in the micellar solutions. The effects are more pronounced in sodium dodecyl sulfate solutions and suggest that the electrostatic attractions with the micellar interface contribute to limit the movement of the molecules and influence the relative rate of their deactivation channels. However, the predominance of the nonradiative decay is maintained together with the UV photoprotective ability of this atypical mycosporine species.

Confinement of Reactive Oxygen Species in an Artificial-Enzyme-Based Hollow Structure To Eliminate Adverse Effects of Photocatalysis on UV Filters

Skin cancers caused by UV irradiation have been a major public health problem. One simple and effective way to avoid the above detrimental effects is the use of UV-protective sunscreens. However, there has been considerable concern with the issue of the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) through the photodegradation of commercial UV filters. Herein, for the first time, it is reported that the integration of ZnO nanoparticles and CeO_x nanoparticles into hollow microspheres (ZnO/CeO_x HMS) could provide broad-spectrum UV protection and scavenge generated ROS under UV irradiation. Benefiting from the cooperative effect of the hollow structure and the antioxidative activity of CeO_x , ROS generated under UV irradiation could be confined to a limited space and effectively conversion into nontoxic molecules is catalyzed as a consequence of increased collision frequency. Therefore, both primary, direct UV-induced damage and secondary ROS toxicity could be greatly reduced.

Photophysicochemical characterization of mycosporine-like amino acids in micellar solutions

The properties and photochemical and photophysical behavior of the mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) shinorine and porphyra-334 were experimentally evaluated in solutions of direct ionic micelles as simple biomimicking environments. The preferential partition of the natural molecules in the aqueous phase of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC) micellar systems is confirmed. Although the proton dissociation of the carboxylic groups in the MAAs is slightly inhibited in CTAC solutions, the molecules are predicted to be in the form of zwitterions in all the explored media around physiological pH. The increase in the fluorescence quantum yield, emission lifetime and stationary anisotropy in the presence of CTAC micelles suggest electrostatic attractions of the MAAs with the surface of the cationic micelles. Consistently, the triplet-triplet absorption spectra in CTAC solutions reveal the typical environmental features of the micellar interface, while in the presence of SDS they are similar to those determined in neat water. Finally, the photostability of the MAAs increases in the micellar systems, more noticeably in the case of CTAC. It is concluded that the ability of the two MAAs to act as UV screens is susceptible to the influence of electrostatic interactions with organized microheterogeneous environments.