Essential Oils and Their Individual Components in Cosmetic Products

The current consumer demands together with the international regulations have pushed the cosmetic industry to seek new active ingredients from natural renewable sources for manufacturing more eco-sustainability and safe products, with botanical extract being an almost unlimited source of these new actives. Essential oils (EOs) emerge as very common natural ingredients in cosmetics and toiletries as a result of both their odorous character for the design and manufacturing of fragrances and perfumes, and the many beneficial properties of their individual components (EOCs), e.g., anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, and, nowadays, the cosmetic industry includes EOs or different mixtures of their individual components (EOCs), either as active ingredients or as preservatives, in various product ranges (e.g., moisturizers, lotions and cleanser in skin care cosmetics; conditioners, masks or antidandruff products in hair care products; lipsticks, or fragrances in perfumery). However, the unique chemical profile of each individual essential oil is associated with different benefits, and hence it is difficult to generalize their potential applications in cosmetics and toiletries, which often require the effort of formulators in seeking suitable mixtures of EOs or EOCs for obtaining specific benefits in the final products. This work presents an updated review of the available literature related to the most recent advances in the application of EOs and EOCs in the manufacturing of cosmetic products. Furthermore, some specific aspects related to the safety of EOs and EOCs in cosmetics will be discussed. It is expected that the information contained in this comprehensive review can be exploited by formulators in the design and optimization of cosmetic formulations containing botanical extracts.

Novel Technologies Based on Supercritical Fluids for the Encapsulation of Food Grade Bioactive Compounds

In recent years, the demand for nutritive, functional and healthy foods has increased. This trend has induced the food industry to investigate novel technologies able to produce ingredients with enhanced functional and physicochemical properties. Among these technologies, one of the most promising is the encapsulation based on supercritical fluids. Thanks to the inherent absence of organic solvent, the low temperature of the process to reach a supercritical state and the capacity to dissolve lipid soluble bioactives, the encapsulation with supercritical carbon dioxide represents a green technology to produce several functional ingredients, with enhanced stability, high load and tailored protection from environmental factors. Furthermore, from the fine-tuning of the process parameters like temperature, pressure and flow rate, the resulting functional ingredient can be easily designed to tailor the controlled release of the bioactive, or to reach specific levels of taste, odor and color. Accordingly, the aim of the present review is to summarize the state of the art of the techniques based on supercritical carbon dioxide for the encapsulation of bioactive compounds of food interest. Pros and cons of such techniques will be highlighted, giving emphasis to their innovative aspects that could be of interest to the food industry.

Microencapsulation and Nanoencapsulation Using Supercritical Fluid (SCF) Techniques

The unique properties of supercritical fluids, in particular supercritical carbon dioxide (CO₂), provide numerous opportunities for the development of processes for pharmaceutical applications. One of the potential applications for pharmaceuticals includes microencapsulation and nanoencapsulation for drug delivery purposes. Supercritical CO₂ processes allow the design and control of particle size, as well as drug loading by utilizing the tunable properties of supercritical CO₂ at different operating conditions (flow ratio, temperature, pressures, etc.). This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of the processes and techniques using supercritical fluid processing based on the supercritical properties, the role of supercritical carbon dioxide during the process, and the mechanism of formulation production for each process discussed. The considerations for equipment configurations to achieve the various processes described and the mechanisms behind the representative processes such as RESS (rapid expansion of supercritical solutions), SAS (supercritical antisolvent), SFEE (supercritical fluid extraction of emulsions), PGSS (particles from gas-saturated solutions), drying, and polymer foaming will be explained via schematic representation. More recent developments such as fluidized bed coating using supercritical CO₂ as the fluidizing and drying medium, the supercritical CO₂ spray drying of aqueous solutions, as well as the production of microporous drug releasing devices via foaming, will be highlighted in this review. Development and strategies to control and optimize the particle morphology, drug loading, and yield from the major processes will also be discussed.

Microencapsulation of eucalyptol in polyethylene glycol and polycaprolactone using particles from gas-saturated solutions

Eucalyptol is the natural cyclic ether which constitutes the bulk of terpenoids found in essential oils of Eucalyptus spp. and is used in aromatherapy for treatment of migraine, sinusitis, asthma and stress. It acts by inhibiting arachidonic acid metabolism and cytokine production. Chemical instability and volatility of eucalyptol restrict its therapeutic application and necessitate the need to develop an appropriate delivery system to achieve extended release and enhance its bioactivity. However, the synthesis method of the delivery system must be suitable to prevent loss or inactivation of the drug during processing. In this study, supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO₂) was explored as an alternative solvent for encapsulation and co-precipitation of eucalyptol with polyethylene glycol (PEG) and/or polycaprolactone (PCL) using the particles from gas-saturated solution (PGSS) process. Polymers and eucalyptol were pre-mixed and then processed in a PGSS autoclave at 45 °C and 80 bar for 1 h. The mixture in scCO₂ was micronized and characterized. The presence of eucalyptol in the precipitated particles was confirmed by infrared spectroscopy, gas chromatography and mass spectrometry. The weight ratios of PEG–PCL blends significantly influenced loading capacity and encapsulation efficiency with 77% of eucalyptol encapsulated in a 4 : 1 composite blend of PEG–PCL. The particle size distribution of the PGSS-micronized particles ranged from 30 to 260 μm. ScCO₂ assisted microencapsulation in PEG and PCL reduced loss of the volatile drug during a two-hour vaporization study and addition of PCL extended the mean release time in simulated physiological fluids. Free radical scavenging and lipoxygenase inhibitory activities of eucalyptol formulated in the PGSS-micronized particles was sustained. Findings from this study showed that the scCO₂-assisted micronization can be used for encapsulation of volatile drugs in polymeric microparticles without affecting bioactivity of the drug.

Application of supercritical carbon dioxide as an alternative solvent for microformulation of the volatile unstable drug, eucalyptol in polymeric composites.

Polymer nanoparticles containing essential oils: new options for mosquito control

Mosquitoes (Diptera: Culicidae) are vectors of important parasites and pathogens causing death, poverty and social disability worldwide. The overuse of synthetic insecticides to control mosquito vectors lead to resistance, adverse environmental effects and high operational costs. Therefore, the development of eco-friendly control tools is an important public health challenge. In this study, two different essential oils (EO) (geranium, Geranium maculatum, and bergamot, Citrus bergamia) loaded polymeric nanoparticle (PN) were elaborated using polyethylene glycol (PEG) and chitosan (Qx) as the polymeric matrix/coating. In addition, the mosquito larvicidal acute and residual activity of the PN was evaluated on Culex pipiens pipiens. The physicochemical characterization of PN revealed that PEG-PN had sizes <255 nm and encapsulation efficiency between 68 and 77%; Qx-PN showed sizes <535 nm and encapsulation efficiency between 22 and 38%. From the toxicological test, it was observed that Qx-PN produced higher acute and residual activity than PEG-PN. Overall, this study highlights that polymer nanoparticles containing essential oil are a promising source of eco-friendly mosquito larvicidal products.