Determination of hydroxy acids in cosmetics by chemometric experimental design and cyclodextrin-modified capillary electrophoresis

Electromigration Techniques in the Analysis of Selected Cosmetic Ingredients: A Review

The cosmetics industry is one of the fastest-growing sectors worldwide. The dynamic evolution of this industry results in an increasingly diverse range of products containing various active ingredients. Ensuring the quality of these products is crucial for consumer safety, necessitating the use of advanced analytical methods and adherence to legal regulations. Electrophoretic techniques, particularly capillary electrophoresis and micellar electrokinetic chromatography, facilitate the rapid and precise separation and identification of cosmetic ingredients. A well-chosen technique and optimized analytical conditions ensure high sensitivity, repeatability, and resolution, achieving detection limits that meet legal requirements. Although electromigration techniques are less common in routine laboratory analyses compared to liquid chromatography, they show potential for broader application in analyzing various substances found in cosmetics. This study reviews the possibilities of applying different electrophoretic techniques to analyze selected cosmetic ingredients serving various functions, including preservatives, dyes, exfoliating agents, UV filters, and also contaminants, while considering sample preparation methods, equipment used, and analysis conditions. The compiled data indicate that capillary electrophoresis, when compared to high-performance liquid chromatography and ion chromatography, shows comparable or superior sensitivity and repeatability, with detection limits adequate to meet regulatory standards.

A chemometric experimental design with three-step stacking capillary electrophoresis for analysis of five tobacco-specific nitrosamines in cigarette products

Tobacco-specific nitrosamines (TSNAs) as carcinogens endanger our health and life from cigarette products. However, the safe range of TSNAs levels in commercial cigarette products has not yet been established. For the purpose of safety and supervision, a three-step stacking approach including field amplified sample injection (FASI), sweeping, and analyte focusing by micelle collapse (AFMC), was developed for the simultaneous determination of five TSNAs levels in cigarette products. This approach also involved aspects of chemometric experimental design, including fractional factorial design and central composite design. After the multilevel optimization of the experimental design, the five TSNAs were well separated. The LOD (S/N = 3) values of the N´-nitrosonornicotine (NNN), N´-nitrosoanatabine (NAT), N´-nitrosoanabasine (NAB), 4-(methylnitrosamino)-1-(3-pyridyl)-1-butanol (NNAL), and 4-(methylnitrosamino)-1-(3-pyridyl)-1-butanone (NNK) in the FASI-sweeping-AFMC CE approach were 1.000 ng/mL, 0.500 ng/mL, 0.125 ng/mL, 1.000 ng/mL, and 0.500 ng/mL respectively. The results of relative standard deviation (RSD) and relative error (RE) were all less than 3.35%, demonstrating good precision and accuracy. Finally, this novel approach was further applied to monitor three commercial cigarette products, and a range of 250.1-336.6 ng/g for NNN, 481.6-526.7 ng/g for NAT, 82.2-247.6 ng/g for NAB, 167.7-473.7 ng/g for NNAL, and 39.4-246.7 ng/g for NNK could be observed among these. Based on these results, the novel CE stacking strategy was successfully applied for the analysis of five TSNAs levels in cigarette products and could serve as a tool for assays of quality control of nitrosamines.

Selective modifications at the different positions of cyclodextrins: a review of strategies

Cyclodextrins (CDs) are natural, nontoxic, and biodegradable macrocyclic oligosaccharides. As supramolecular hosts, CDs have numerous applications in many aspects. However, nonsubstituted CDs have the disadvantages of solubility, unspecific recognition sites, and weak interactions with guest molecules. Therefore, new CD-based derivatives are successfully designed, synthesized, and widely used in various fields. This contribution outlines the research progress in CD derivatives. In particular, this review emphasizes the synthesis and application of CDs modified through functionalization in definite positions, random substitution, and reconstruction of the skeleton. At the end of this review, a summary and future directions are presented.

Stability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers

OBJECTIVE

The aim of the study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit extract, stabilized by conventional non-ionic emulsifier-CEW, in order to determine the influence of emulsifiers (conventional vs. biodegradable) on the characteristics of creams and their effects on the skin.

METHODS

Organoleptic and physico-chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis was performed, determination of fruit acids-FAs content (using HPLC analysis) and estimation of its antioxidant activity-AA (using DPPH test) during 180 days. In vivo study included following examinations: screening of safety profile (after creams application under occlusion during 24 h at human skin); skin moisturizing potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, skin pH after 28 days of cream application and hypopigmentation efficacy 7 days of cream application at artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation.

RESULTS

Investigated cosmetic cream-CEW showed satisfactory organoleptic, physico-chemical characteristics, stability, FAs content (0.13%) and AA (19.25 ± 0.67 %RSC) after preparation, which remained unchanged over the study period. In vivo investigation revealed absence of skin irritation after CEW's application under occlusion. An increase of skin moisturization (after 14 days ΔEC was 18.52 ± 11.51 and after 28 days of applications 16.52 ± 9.36) during 28 day-study, with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values was shown. Decrease of melanin index was revealed, too (after 7 days ΔMI was -31.40 ± 16.50).

CONCLUSION

Cosmetic cream stabilized by conventional emulsifier showed better antioxidant potential and weaker moisturizing and hypopigmentation effects related to the cream with same composition but stabilized by biodegradable emulsifiers. Based on all mentioned above, investigated cosmetic cream might be considered for potential use as modern, stable, safe and efficient cosmetic product in the prevention and/or treatment of oxidative stress-related skin changes and/or damages, for moisturization of dry, even irritated skin as well as for lightening of hyperpigmented skin. RÉSUMÉ: OBJECTIF Le but de l'étude était la caractérisation in vitro et in vivo d'une crème cosmétique contenant 6 % d'extrait normalisé de pomme sauvage, stabilisée par un émulsifiant non ionique conventionnel-CEW, afin de déterminer l'influence des émulsifiants (conventionnels vs biodégradables) sur les caractéristiques des crèmes et les effets sur la peau. MÉTHODES: Des analyses organoleptiques et physico-chimiques (pH et conductivité électrique) ont été effectuées, la détermination de la teneur en acides de fruits et en acides gras polyinsaturés (par CLHP), et l'estimation de sa teneur en activité antioxydante (AA) (à l'aide du test DPPH) pendant 180 jours. L'étude in vivo comprenait les examens suivants : dépistage du profil d'innocuité (après application de crèmes sous occlusion pendant 24 h sur la peau humaine); potentiel d'hydratation de la peau, perte d'eau transépidermique (PETE), pH de la peau après 28 jours d'application de la crème et efficacité de l'hypopigmentation après 7 jours d'application de la crème sur une hyperpigmentation de la peau induite artificiellement. RÉSULTATS: La crème cosmétique-CEW étudiée a montré des caractéristiques organoleptiques, physico-chimiques, une stabilité, une teneur en AG (0,13 %) et en AA (19,25 ± 0,67 % RSC) satisfaisantes après préparation, qui sont demeurées inchangées au cours de la période de l'étude. L'étude in vivo a révélé l'absence d'irritation cutanée après l'application de CEW sous occlusion. Une augmentation de l'hydratation de la peau (après 14 jours de DEC était de 18,52 ± 11,51 et après 28 jours d'applications de 16,52 ± 9,36) pendant l'étude de 28 jours, avec une PETE et des valeurs de pH cutané inchangées, a été démontrée. Une diminution de l'indice de mélanine a été mise en évidence également (après 7 jours, ΔMI était de 31,40 ± 16,50).

CONCLUSION

La crème cosmétique stabilisée par un émulsifiant conventionnel a montré un meilleur potentiel antioxydant et des effets d'hydratation et d'hypopigmentation plus faibles par rapport à la crème de même composition mais stabilisée par des émulsifiants biodégradables. D'après les données précédentes, la crème cosmétique étudiée pourrait être considérée comme un produit cosmétique moderne, stable, sûr et efficace dans la prévention et/ou le traitement des changements et/ou dommages cutanés liés au stress oxydatif, pour l'hydratation de la peau sèche, voire irritée, ainsi que pour éclaircir la peau hyperpigmentée.

Standardized extract of wild apple fruit in alkyl-polyglucoside-based cosmetic cream - estimation of stability, safety, antioxidant activity and efficiency

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of wild apple fruit water extract, containing 3.5% of alpha-hydroxyacids-AHAs and polyphenolic compounds, stabilized by biodegradable alkyl-polyglucoside emulsifiers.

METHODS

In vitro characterization of cream included organoleptic and physico-chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis, antioxidant activity-AA estimation (using DPPH test) during 180 days of storage at 22±2°C and determination of cosmetic active substances content-AHAs (using HPLC analysis). In vivo estimation of skin irritation potential after creams application under occlusion during 24h was investigated employing the biophysical methods on 12 healthy volunteers; hydration efficiency, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, skin pH, erythema-EI and melanin index-MI on 10 healthy volunteers after 28 days of cream application and bleaching efficiency on 10 healthy volunteers after 7 days of cream application after artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation.

RESULTS

Investigated cosmetic cream was pale beige color, odorless, semi-solid consistency and homogeneous, with pH values of 6.53±0.14, electrical conductivity above 50 μS/cm and AA of 24.96%RSC after preparation and these characteristics were stable during investigated period. In vivo measurements revealed absence of skin irritation after cream application under occlusion, which was part of it's safety profile. Increase of skin hydration after 14 days of cream application was 17.28±12.23 and after 28 days 21.19±7.59. In addition, in performed experiment TEWL and skin pH values during cream application remained unchanged. Cream application after artificial hyperpigmentation induced decrease of MI (∆MI after 7 days was -45.30±18.55) CONCLUSION: Formulated cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit water extract and stabilized by biodegradable alkyl-polyglucoside emulsifiers demonstrated good stability, acceptable level of in vitro antioxidant activity, absence of skin irritation after cream application under occlusion and positive effects of cream on human skin after application (hydrating and bleaching effects). All mentioned properties make the cream suitable for possible usage as cosmetic product for preventing the skin damages caused by oxidative stress, for moisturizing the dry skin and bleaching of skin hyperpigmentation. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Determination of Nicotine in Tobacco by Chemometric Optimization and Cation-Selective Exhaustive Injection in Combination with Sweeping-Micellar Electrokinetic Chromatography

Nicotine is a potent chemical that excites the central nervous system and refreshes people. It is also physically addictive and causes dependence. To reduce the harm of tobacco products for smokers, a law was introduced that requires tobacco product containers to be marked with the amount of nicotine as well as tar. In this paper, an online stacking capillary electrophoresis (CE) method with cation-selective exhaustive injection sweeping-micellar electrokinetic chromatography (CSEI-sweeping-MEKC) is proposed for the optimized analysis of nicotine in tobacco. A higher conductivity buffer (160 mM phosphate buffer (pH 3)) zone was injected into the capillary, allowing for the analytes to be electrokinetically injected at a voltage of 15 kV for 15 min. Using 50 mM sodium dodecyl sulfate and 25% methanol in the sweeping buffer, nicotine was detected with high sensitivity. Thus, optimized conditions adapted from a chemometric approach provided a 6000-fold increase in the nicotine detection sensitivity using the CSEI-sweeping-MEKC method in comparison to normal CZE. The limits of detection were 0.5 nM for nicotine. The stacking method in combination with direct injection which matrix components would not interfere with assay performance was successfully applied to the detection of nicotine in tobacco samples.

Optimization of the enantioseparation of a diaryl-pyrazole sulfonamide derivative by capillary electrophoresis in a dual CD mode using experimental design

A CE method using dual cationic and neutral cyclodextrins (CD) was optimized for the enantiomeric separation of a compound presenting a diaryl sulfonamide group. Preliminary studies were made to select the optimal CDs and pH of the BGE. Two CDs (amino-β-CD and β-CD) were selected to separate the enantiomers in a 67 mM phosphate buffer at pH 7.4. However, the repeatability of the analyses obtained on bare-fused silica capillary was not acceptable owing to the adsorption of the amino-β-CD to the capillary. To prevent this, a dynamic coating of the capillary was used employing five layers of ionic-polymer (poly(diallyldimethylammonium) chloride (PDADMAC) and poly(sodium 4-styrenesulfonate). The efficiency of the coating was assessed by measuring the EOF stability. Repeatability of the injections was obtained when intermediate coating with PDADMAC was performed between each run. Secondly, this enantioseparation method was optimized using a central composite circumscribed design including three factors: amino-β-CD and β-CD concentrations and the percentage of methanol. Under the optimal conditions (i.e. 16.6 mM of amino-β-CD, 2.6 mM of β-CD, 0% MeOH in 67 mM phosphate buffer (pH 7.4) as BGE, cathodic injection 0.5 psi, 5 s, separation voltage 15 kV and a temperature of 15°C), complete enantioresolution of the analyte was obtained. It is worth mentioning that the design of experiments (DOE) protocol employed showed a significant interaction between CDs, highlighting the utility of DOE in method development. Finally, small variations in the ionic-polymer concentrations did not significantly influence the EOF, confirming the robustness of the coating method.

Multivariate optimization of capillary electrophoresis methods: a critical review

In this article a review on the recent applications of multivariate techniques for optimization of electromigration methods, is presented. Papers published in the period from August 2007 to February 2013, have been taken into consideration. Upon a brief description of each of the involved CE operative modes, the characteristics of the chemometric strategies (type of design, factors and responses) applied to face a number of analytical challenges, are presented. Finally, a critical discussion, giving some practical advices and pointing out the most common issues involved in multivariate set-up of CE methods, is provided.