Polarized Raman microspectroscopy on intact human hair

Formaldehyde replacement with glyoxylic acid in semipermanent hair straightening: a new and multidisciplinary investigation

OBJECTIVE

Formaldehyde is an effective and popular semipermanent hair straightener, but the severe consequences for human health due to its toxicity have prompted the search for safer alternatives. Different carbonyl compounds, including glyoxylic acid, have recently been proposed as promising candidates. Despite the interest in this topic, there is a lack of information about the interactions between hair keratin and straightener agents. This study addresses this issue to gain new insights useful in the development of new products for safe, semipermanent hair deformation.

METHODS

The possible reactions occurring between carbonyl groups and nucleophilic sites on amino acid residues belonging to the keratin were investigated using as model compounds some aldehydes and amino acid derivatives. Raman and IR analyses on yak hair subjected to the straightening treatment with glyoxylic acid in different conditions were carried out. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) analyses were carried out on yak and curly human hair after each step of the straightening procedure.

RESULTS

The reactions between aldehydes and N-α-acetyl-L-lysine revealed the importance of the carbonyl electrophilicity and temperature to form imines. Raman and IR analyses on yak hair subjected to the straightening treatment evidenced rearrangements in the secondary structure distribution, conformational changes to the disulphide bridges, a decrease of the serine residues and formation of imines. It was also indicated that straightening produced major conformational rearrangements within the hair fibre rather than on the cuticle.

CONCLUSION

This investigation revealed the role played by the electrophilicity of the carbonyl on the straightener agent and of the temperature, closely related to the dehydration process. Raman and IR studies indicated the involvement of imine bonds and the occurrence of a sequence of conformational modifications during the straightening procedure. SEM analyses showed the effectiveness of the treatment at the cuticular level.

Confocal Raman spectroscopy of whole hairs

This paper describes the application of Raman spectroscopy to whole hair fibers. Previously this has proved difficult because the hairs are relatively opaque, and spatial resolution diminishes with depth because of the change in refractive index. A solution is to couple confocal Raman with multivariate curve resolution (MCR) data analysis, which separates spectral differences with depth despite this reduction in resolution. Initially, it is shown that the cuticle can be separated from the cortex, showing the differences in the proteins, which can then be plotted as a function of depth, with the cuticle factor being seen only at the surface as expected. Hairs that had been treated in different ways, e.g., by bleaching, treatment with the active molecule resorcinol followed by rinsing and treatment with a full hair care product, were also examined. In all cases, changes to the hair are identified and are associated with specific parts of the fiber. Since the hair fiber is kept intact, it can be repeatedly treated and measured, hence multistep treatment processes can be followed. This method expands the potential use of Raman spectroscopy in hair research.

Orientation determination of protein helical secondary structures using linear and nonlinear vibrational spectroscopy

In this paper, we systematically presented the orientation determination of protein helical secondary structures using vibrational spectroscopic methods, particularly, nonlinear sum frequency generation (SFG) vibrational spectroscopy, along with linear vibrational spectroscopic techniques such as infrared spectroscopy and Raman scattering. SFG amide I signals can be collected using different polarization combinations of the input laser beams and output signal beam to measure the second-order nonlinear optical susceptibility components of the helical amide I modes, which are related to their molecular hyperpolarizability elements through the orientation distribution of these helices. The molecular hyperpolarizability elements of amide I modes of a helix can be calculated based on the infrared transition dipole moment and Raman polarizability tensor of the helix; these quantities are determined by using the bond additivity model to sum over the individual infrared transition dipole moments and Raman polarizability tensors, respectively, of the peptide units (or the amino acid residues). The computed overall infrared transition dipole moment and Raman polarizability tensor of a helix can be validated by experimental data using polarized infrared and polarized Raman spectroscopy on samples with well-aligned helical structures. From the deduced SFG hyperpolarizability elements and measured SFG second-order nonlinear susceptibility components, orientation information regarding helical structures can be determined. Even though such orientation information can also be measured using polarized infrared or polarized Raman amide I signals, SFG has a much lower detection limit, which can be used to study the orientation of a helix when its surface coverage is much lower than a monolayer. In addition, the combination of different vibrational spectroscopic techniques, for example, SFG and attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, provides more measured parameters for orientation determination, aiding in the deduction of more complicated orientation distributions. In this paper, we discussed two types of helices, the alpha-helix and 3-10 helix. However, the orientation determination method presented here is general and thus can be applied to study other helices as well. The calculations of SFG amide I hyperpolarizability components for alpha-helical and 3-10 helical structures with different chain lengths have also been performed. It was found that when the helices reached a certain length, the number of peptide units in the helix should not alter the data analysis substantially. It was shown in the calculation, however, that when the helix chain is short, the SFG hyperpolarizability component ratios can vary substantially when the chain length is changed. Because 3-10 helical structures can be quite short in proteins, the orientation determination for a short 3-10 helix needs to take into account the number of peptide units in the helix.