Helianthus annuus L. flower prevents UVB‐induced photodamage in human dermal fibroblasts by regulating the MAPK/AP‐1, NFAT, and Nrf2 signaling pathways

Collagen study advances for photoaging skin

BACKGROUND

Collagen dominates the skin's extracellular matrix (ECM). Type I collagen comprises 80%-90% of the skin's collagen, followed by type III (8%-12%) and type V (5%). Reactive oxygen species, matrix metalloproteinases, and collagen degradation all increase during photoaging, which disrupts the ECM's dynamic balance and lowers the amount of total collagen in the body. In recent years, domestic and foreign researchers have conducted multidimensional and multifaceted studies on collagen and skin photoaging. Collagen and the peptides that are derivates of it are currently being used more and more in biomedicine and medical esthetics.

OBJECTIVE

Offering new suggestions for both the avoidance and remedy of photoaging.

METHODS

This article reviews collagen and its potential connection to skin photoaging, illustrates the effects of collagen and peptide supplementation derivatives on photoaged skin, and briefly describes other compounds that can also be used to fight photoaging by increasing collagen synthesis in the skin.

RESULT

Both internal and external aging are inevitable, and as the main component of extracellular matrix, collagen plays a variety of functions in maintaining skin structure and fighting skin aging, and its role in photoaging is undeniable. Ultraviolet radiation can induce increased fragmentation and degradation of cutaneous collagen, while conversely, supplementation with collagen can effectively counteract photodamage-induced skin impairment.

CONCLUSION

Collagen and its derived peptides are indispensable in photoaging skin, holding promising prospects for applications in skin aging.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Protective Effects of ζ-Carotene-like Compounds against Acute UVB-Induced Skin Damage

The previous study successfully established an expression strain of ζ-carotene-like compounds (CLC) and demonstrated its remarkable antioxidant activity, which exhibited resistance to photodamage caused by UVB radiation on the skin following gavage administration. The objective of this study was to investigate the impact and mechanism of CLC on UVB-induced skin damage through topical application. Cell viability, anti-apoptotic activity, ROS scavenging ability, the inhibition of melanin synthesis, the regulation of inflammatory factors and collagen deposition were assessed in cells and mice using qRT-PCR, WB, Elisa assays, immunohistochemistry staining and biochemical kits, etc. The experimental results demonstrated that CLC-mitigated apoptosis induced by UVB irradiation up-regulated the Keap1/Nrf2/ARE antioxidant pathway to attenuate levels of ROS and inflammatory factors (NF-κB, TNF-α, IL-6 and IL-β), and suppressed MAPK/AP-1 and CAMP/PKA/CREB signaling pathways to mitigate collagen degradation, skin aging and melanin formation. In conclusion, this study underscored the potential of CLC as a safe and efficacious source of antioxidants, positioning it as a promising ingredient in the formulation of cosmetics targeting anti-aging, skin brightening and sunburn repair.

Evaluating Potentials of Species Rich Taxonomic Groups in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Clustering and Dispersion of Skin Efficacy of Asteraceae and Ranunculales Plants on the Species Phylogenetic Tree

BACKGROUND

The medicinal properties of plants can be predicted by virtue of phylogenetic methods, which nevertheless have not been utilized to explore the regularity of skin-related bioactivities of ethnomedicinal plants. We aim to investigate the distribution of skin efficacy of Asteraceae and Ranunculales plants on the species-level Tree of Life.

METHODS

The clinical efficacy data of 551 ethnomedicinal species belonging to Ranunculales, as well as 579 ethnomedicinal species of Asteraceae, were systematically collected and collated; these therapeutic data fell into 15 categories, including skin disease/cosmeceutical. The large phylogenetic tree of all China angiosperm species was used to detect the phylogenetic signals of ethnomedicinal plants by calculating the D statistic, phylogenetic diversity (PD), net relatedness index (NRI), and nearest taxon index (NTI). Of all Chinese ethnomedicinal plants of Ranunculales and Asteraceae, 339 (61.5% of all ethnomedicinal species) and 382 (66.0% of all) are used for skin problems. In Ranunculales, a clustered structure was suggested by the NRI value for skin uses. In Asteraceae, the skin utility was not clustered; Artemisia, Aster, Cremanthodium, Ligularia, and Saussurea are the most used Asteraceae genera for skin issues.

RESULTS

The clustering structure was identified in Artemisia, and the skin efficacy in other genera was of overdispersion (NRI < 0). NTI values and D statistics largely agree with NRI. When compared with PD values of different therapeutic categories, the PD value of the skin category was relatively high in Cremanthodium, Ranunculales, Asteraceae, and Artemisia, suggesting the enormous efficacy space in the new taxa of these taxonomic groups.

CONCLUSION

By resolving the distribution of therapeutic effects of Ranunculales/Asteraceae taxa, the importance of phylogenetic methods in mining botanical resources with skin utilities is validated.

2-O-β-d-Glucopyranosyl-4,6-dihydroxybenzaldehyde Isolated from Morus alba (Mulberry) Fruits Suppresses Damage by Regulating Oxidative and Inflammatory Responses in TNF-α-Induced Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Human skin is composed of three layers, of which the dermis is composed of an extracellular matrix (ECM) comprising collagen, elastin, and other proteins. These proteins are reduced due to skin aging caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Among various internal and external factors related to aging, ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the main cause of photoaging of the skin. UV radiation stimulates DNA damage, reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, and pro-inflammatory cytokine production such as tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), and promotes ECM degradation. Stimulation with ROS and TNF-α upregulates mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB), and activator protein 1 (AP-1) transcription factors that induce the expression of the collagenase matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). Moreover, TNF-α induces intracellular ROS production and several molecular pathways. Skin aging progresses through various processes and can be prevented through ROS generation and TNF-α inhibition. In our previous study, 2-O-β-d-glucopyranosyl-4,6-dihydroxybenzaldehyde (GDHBA) was isolated from the Morus alba (mulberry) fruits and its inhibitory effect on MMP-1 secretion was revealed. In this study, we focused on the effect of GDHBA on TNF-α-induced human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). GDHBA (50 μM) inhibited ROS generation (18.8%) and decreased NO (58.4%) and PGE₂ levels (53.8%), significantly. Moreover, it decreased MMP-1 secretion (55.3%) and increased pro-collagen type I secretion (207.7%). GDHBA (50 μM) decreased the expression of different MAPKs as per western blotting; p-38: 35.9%; ERK: 47.9%; JNK: 49.5%; c-Jun: 32.1%; NF-κB: 55.9%; and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2): 31%. This study elucidated a novel role of GDHBA in protecting against skin inflammation and damage through external stimuli, such as UV radiation.

Oral administration of Helianthus annuus leaf extract ameliorates atopic dermatitis by modulation of T cell activity in vivo

BACKGROUND

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is multifactorial disease that is highly involved in the activity of T cells from the skin lesion. Seeds of Helianthus annuus extract have been traditionally used as anti-inflammatory reagent but few studies have been reported on leaf of H. annuus that are discarded uselessly as an immunomodulator.

PURPOSE

Therefore, here, the regulatory effect of Helianthus annuus extract (HAE) on AD via suppression of T cell activity was investigated.

METHODS

The efficacy of HAE was evaluated in T cells stimulated with CD3/CD28 antibody and PMA/A23187. And demonstration of the alleviating effect of HAE on AD in the ears of Balb/c female mice stimulated with mite extract and DNCB.

RESULTS

Pre-treatment with HAE abrogates IL-2 production from activated T cells. It was also found that HAE suppresses the expression of surface molecules in activated T cells. Cell viability results demonstrated that HAE is not associated with cytotoxicity in resting and activated T cells. Besides, we exhibited that regulated phosphorylation of MAPK through TAK1-IKKα-NFκB by pre-treatment with HAE leads to the suppressive effect of HAE on T cell activation. Oral administration of HAE attenuates manifestations of AD including reduced thickness of dermis and epidermis, decreased IgE level in serum, and declined mRNA levels of atopic cytokines on ear tissues. The ameliorative effect of HAE on AD was found to be associated with suppressed activity of T cells from draining lymph nodes.

CONCLUSION

Therefore, our results provide that HAE alleviates AD symptoms via modulation of T cell activity. In addition, these results suggest the immunomodulatory effect of HAE on T-cell mediated diseases.

Oddioside A, a New Phenolic Glycoside Isolated from the Fruits of Morus alba (Mulberry), Protects TNF-α-Induced Human Dermal Fibroblast Damage

In our preliminary study, a hot water extract from the fruits of Morus alba (mulberry) inhibited the secretion of metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) against tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α)-stimulated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs), and therefore we researched its active compounds. In the present study, a new phenolic glycoside (oddioside A, 1) and 21 known compounds (2−22) were isolated from the hot water extract from the fruits of M. alba by repeated chromatography. The chemical structure of the new compound 1 was elucidated by its spectroscopic data (1D− and 2D−NMR and HRMS) measurement and by acidic hydrolysis. The presence of sargentodoside E (2), eugenyl glucoside (6), 2-O-β-d-glucopyranosyl-4,6-dihydroxybenzaldehyde (7), 7S,8R-erythro-7,9,9’-trihydroxy-3,3’-dimethoxy-8-O-4’-neolignan-4-O-β-d-glucopyranoside (11), pinoresinol-4-O-β-d-glucopyranoside (12), taxifolin-7-O-β-d-glucopyranoside (20), and pinellic acid (21) were reported from M. alba for the first time in this study. The new compound oddioside A (1) suppressed the secretion of MMP-1 and increased collagen in TNF-α-stimulated HDFs. In addition, the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) was inhibited by oddioside A. In conclusion, the extract from fruits of M. alba and its constituent oddioside A may be a potential agent to prevent inflammation-related skin aging and other skin disorders.

Role of Phytochemicals in Skin Photoprotection via Regulation of Nrf2

Ethnopharmacological studies have become increasingly valuable in the development of botanical products and their bioactive phytochemicals as novel and effective preventive and therapeutic strategies for various diseases including skin photoaging and photodamage-related skin problems including abnormal pigmentation and inflammation. Exploring the roles of phytochemicals in mitigating ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced skin damage is thus of importance to offer insights into medicinal and ethnopharmacological potential for development of novel and effective photoprotective agents. UVR plays a role in the skin premature aging (or photoaging) or impaired skin integrity and function through triggering various biological responses of skin cells including apoptosis, oxidative stress, DNA damage and inflammation. In addition, melanin produced by epidermal melanocytes play a protective role against UVR-induced skin damage and therefore hyperpigmentation mediated by UV irradiation could reflect a sign of defensive response of the skin to stress. However, alteration in melanin synthesis may be implicated in skin damage, particularly in individuals with fair skin. Oxidative stress induced by UVR contributes to the process of skin aging and inflammation through the activation of related signaling pathways such as the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1), the phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/protein kinase B (Akt), the nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and the signal transducer and activator of transcription (STAT) in epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. ROS formation induced by UVR also plays a role in regulation of melanogenesis in melanocytes via modulating MAPK, PI3K/Akt and the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R)-microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) signaling cascades. Additionally, nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)-regulated antioxidant defenses can affect the major signaling pathways involved in regulation of photoaging, inflammation associated with skin barrier dysfunction and melanogenesis. This review thus highlights the roles of phytochemicals potentially acting as Nrf2 inducers in improving photoaging, inflammation and hyperpigmentation via regulation of cellular homeostasis involved in skin integrity and function. Taken together, understanding the role of phytochemicals targeting Nrf2 in photoprotection could provide an insight into potential development of natural products as a promising strategy to delay skin photoaging and improve skin conditions.

Plant Secondary Metabolites against Skin Photodamage: Mexican Plants, a Potential Source of UV-Radiation Protectant Molecules

Human skin works as a barrier against the adverse effects of environmental agents, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Exposure to UVR is associated with a variety of harmful effects on the skin, and it is one of the most common health concerns. Solar UVR constitutes the major etiological factor in the development of cutaneous malignancy. However, more than 90% of skin cancer cases could be avoided with appropriate preventive measures such as regular sunscreen use. Plants, constantly irradiated by sunlight, are able to synthesize specialized molecules to fight against UVR damage. Phenolic compounds, alkaloids and carotenoids constitute the major plant secondary metabolism compounds with relevant UVR protection activities. Hence, plants are an important source of molecules used to avoid UVR damage, reduce photoaging and prevent skin cancers and related illnesses. Due to its significance, we reviewed the main plant secondary metabolites related to UVR protection and its reported mechanisms. In addition, we summarized the research in Mexican plants related to UV protection. We presented the most studied Mexican plants and the photoprotective molecules found in them. Additionally, we analyzed the studies conducted to elucidate the mechanism of photoprotection of those molecules and their potential use as ingredients in sunscreen formulas.

Eisenia bicyclis Extract Repairs UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging In Vitro and In Vivo: Photoprotective Effects

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) is a major cause of skin aging. The aim of the present study was to determine the photoprotective effect of a 30% ethanol extract of Eisenia bicyclis (Kjellman) Setchell (EEB) against UVB-induced skin aging. By treating human dermal fibroblasts (Hs68) with EEB after UVB irradiation, we found that EEB had a cytoprotective effect. EEB treatment significantly decreased UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production by suppressing the activation of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein 1 (AP-1) signaling and enhancing the protein expression of tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs). EEB was also found to recover the UVB-induced degradation of pro-collagen by upregulating Smad signaling. Moreover, EEB increased the mRNA expression of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin in UVB-irradiated human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT). EEB decreased UVB-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation by upregulating glutathione peroxidase 1 (GPx1) and heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) expression via nuclear factor erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) activation in Hs68 cells. In a UVB-induced HR-1 hairless mouse model, the oral administration of EEB mitigated photoaging lesions including wrinkle formation, skin thickness, and skin dryness by downregulating MMP-1 production and upregulating the expression of pro-collagen type I alpha 1 chain (pro-COL1A1). Collectively, our findings revealed that EEB prevents UVB-induced skin damage by regulating MMP-1 and pro-collagen type I production through MAPK/AP-1 and Smad pathways.

Effect of ultraviolet radiation on the Nrf2 signaling pathway in skin cells

PURPOSE

Excessive exposure of skin to solar radiation is associated with greatly increased production of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (ROS, RNS) resulting in oxidative stress (OS), inflammation, immunosuppression, the production of matrix metalloproteinase, DNA damage and mutations. These events lead to increased incidence of various skin disorders including photoaing and both non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancers. The ultraviolet (UV) part of sunlight, in particular, is responsible for structural and cellular changes across the different layers of the skin. Among other effects, UV photons stimulate oxidative damage to biomolecules via the generation of unstable and highly reactive compounds. In response to oxidative damage, cytoprotective pathways are triggered. One of these is the pathway driven by the nuclear factor erythroid-2 related factor 2 (Nrf2). This transcription factor translocates to the nucleus and drives the expression of numerous genes, among them various detoxifying and antioxidant enzymes. Several studies concerning the effects of UV radiation on Nrf2 activation have been published, but different UV wavelengths, skin cells or tissues and incubation periods were used in the experiments that complicate the evaluation of UV radiation effects.

CONCLUSIONS

This review summarizes the effects of UVB (280-315 nm) and UVA (315-400 nm) radiation on the Nrf2 signaling pathway in dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes and melanocytes. The effects of natural compounds (pure compounds or mixtures) on Nrf2 activation and level as well as on Nrf2-driven genes in UV irradiated human skin fibroblasts, keratinocytes and melanocytes are briefly mentioned as well.HighlightsUVB radiation is a rather poor activator of the Nrf2-driven pathway in fibroblastsUVA radiation stimulates Nrf2 activation in dermal fibroblastsEffects of UVA on the Nrf2 pathway in keratinocytes and melanocytes remain unclearLong-term Nrf2 activation in keratinocytes disturbs their normal differentiationPharmacological activation of Nrf2 in the skin needs to be performed carefully.