Analysis of preservatives and fragrances in topical medical devices: The need for more stringent regulation

INTRODUCTION

Medical devices (MDs) have a long history of use, and come with regulatory frameworks to ensure user safety. Although topically applied MDs in the form of gels and creams might be used on damaged skin, their composition is often similar to that of cosmetic products applicable to intact skin, especially in terms of preservatives and fragrances. However, unlike cosmetics, these products are not subject to compound-specific restrictions when used in MDs.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to identify and quantify preservatives and fragrances in topically applied MDs and assess their safety towards the Cosmetic Regulation (EC) 1223/2009.

METHOD

Sixty-nine MDs available on the EU market were subjected to previously validated liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) methods to identify and quantify occurring preservatives and fragrances.

RESULTS

Findings revealed that 32% of the examined MDs did not provide comprehensive ingredient lists, leaving users uninformed about potential risks associated with product use. Furthermore, 30% of these MDs would not meet safety standards for cosmetic products and, most significantly, 13% of the analysed samples contained ingredients that are prohibited in leave-on cosmetics.

CONCLUSION

Results highlight the pressing demand for more stringent requirements regarding the labelling and composition of MDs to enhance patient safety. Improved regulation and transparency can mitigate potential risks associated with the use of topically applied MDs.

Trends in contact sensitization, results, and implications from a contact dermatitis clinic in Israel

BACKGROUND

The baseline series includes common allergens, evolves over time, and differs by location. Our study aims to characterize allergen sensitization trends among the Israeli population during the last two decades, compare our results to American and European registries, as well as to highlight significant allergens in additional series outside the European baseline series (OEBS).

METHODS

We analysed patch test results of 2086 patients from a designated contact dermatitis clinic in Tel Aviv between 2019 and 2022, compared them to European and North American registries and to 2156 patch test results conducted in Israel two decades ago.

RESULTS

38.6% of patients had at least one positive reaction to an allergen in the European baseline series (EBS), nickel sulphate (14.6%), fragrance mix I (4.6%), and Methylchloroisothiazolinone methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI; 3.7%) were the most common among them. N-Isopropyl N-Phenyl-4-Phenylenediamine (NIPPD; 0%), Propolis (0.1%), Sesquiterpene lactone mix (0.1%), and Budesonide (0.1%) elicited a sensitization frequency significantly lower than the proposed threshold for baseline inclusion. Chi-square test revealed a statistically significant decrease (p < 0.05) in the sensitization frequency of fragrance mix I, Formaldehyde, Potassium dichromate, Neomycin sulphate, Myroxylon pereirae, Sesquiterpene lactone, and NIPPD during the last two decades. The overall sensitization frequency to the majority of allergens was lower in our cohort in comparison to the North American and European registries.

CONCLUSIONS

MCI/MI and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate-2 (HEMA) are common, relevant allergens, with high SPIN (significance and prevalence index number) and should be better regulated by the authorities. While among the EBS, NIPPD, Propolis, Sesquiterpene lactone, and Budesonide usually do not elicit a positive reaction and therefore should be reconsidered in baseline series, among the OEBS, Chloramphenicol, Quaternium 15, Propyl gallate, and Amerchol L101 have elicited high SPIN values and should be vigilantly examined in the suitable clinical scenario. Significantly lower sensitization frequency to propolis raises the possibility of a protective effect due to early oral exposure among the Israeli population.

The potential of Paeonia lactiflora pall seeds oil as a pure natural cosmetics raw material: In Vitro findings

BACKGROUND

As a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, Paeonia lactiflora Pall is rich in various active ingredients such as polysaccharides and total flavonoids while having ornamental value. It has potential application value in the development of food and cosmetics.

OBJECTIVE

To study the in vitro efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil.

METHODS

Firstly, the levels of linolenic acid and linoleic acid in Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil were quantified using gas chromatography. The impact of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was assessed through the CCK-8 method, while the melanin content of B16F10 cells was determined using the sodium hydroxide lysis method. The inhibitory effects of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase were evaluated by biochemical techniques in vitro. Lastly, the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM) was conducted to confirm the absence of eye irritation caused by Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil.

RESULTS

Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil within a certain volume concentration range (0.5%-4%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil showed significant inhibition of elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. Notably, the highest concentration tested, 4% Paeonia lactiflora Pall seed oil, yielded the most pronounced outcomes without causing any irritation.

CONCLUSION

A certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil has a significant effect on decreasing the melanin content in B16F10 cells and inhibiting the activities of elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, which can provide a reference for the development of pure natural cosmetics raw materials.

Dermal absorption of cyclic and linear siloxanes: a review

Cyclic and linear siloxanes are compounds synthesized from silicon consisting of alternating atoms of silicone and oxygen [Si-O] units with organic side chains. The most common cyclic siloxanes are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5), and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), while the most common linear siloxanes are high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and low molecular weight volatile linear siloxanes known as hexamethyldisiloxane (L2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), dodecamethylpentasiloxane (L5). These compounds (1) exhibit low dermal toxicity, (2) are generally inert and non-reactive, and (3) are compatible with a wide range of chemicals offering beneficial chemical properties which include the following: wash-off or transfer resistance from the skin, sun protection factor (SPF) enhancement, emolliency in cleaning products). Because of these properties, these compounds are incorporated into multiple consumer products for use on the skin, such as cosmetics and health-care products, with over 300,000 tons annually sold into the personal care and consumer products sector. Because of their widespread use in consumer products and potential for human dermal exposure, a comprehensive understanding of the dermal absorption and overall fate of siloxanes following dermal exposure is important. This review summarizes available data associated with the dermal absorption/penetration as well as fate of the most commonly used siloxane substances.

Sensitisation to ethylhexyl salicylate: Another piece of the frontal fibrosing alopecia puzzle

BACKGROUND

There is speculation that some environmental factors may be impacting the increasing incidence of frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA). In a recent publication, sensitisation to benzyl salicylate was shown to be prevalent among 36 patients with FFA. Ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), a light stabiliser, ultraviolet (UV) B absorber and UV filter, frequently found in photoprotectors/cosmetics and, rarely reported as a sensitiser, was not patch tested in said research.

METHODS

From January 2021 to February 2022, 33 patients with FFA were patch-tested with the European Photopatch Series, including EHS 10% pet. in two hospitals. In addition, we conducted a literature review and a market survey.

RESULTS

Patch test reactions to EHS were identified in 9 of 33 (27.3%). Four of nine also reacted to their personal sunscreens (containing EHS). All involved women with a mean age of 54 (30-65). Five patients had been diagnosed with FFA before the patch tests; and, four were diagnosed with FFA during the patch test investigations.

CONCLUSION

Sensitisation to EHS was frequently found in a selected population of patients with FFA. We propose to expand the spectrum of contact allergens described in patients with FFA to include EHS and discuss the possible need for optimization of the patch test preparation.

Questionnaire-Based Study of 392 Women in Abbottabad, Pakistan, to Evaluate the Types of Cosmetic Products Purchased Between December 2018 and March 2019 and Their Associated Adverse Events

BACKGROUND Cosmetics are applied topically to enhance appearance and are commonly used by women of all ages. Cosmetics contain many chemical agents, but the incidence of adverse reactions is low, possibly due to underreporting. This questionnaire-based study included 392 women to evaluate information on the types of cosmetics purchased between December 2018 and March 2019, their use by the women surveyed, and their associated adverse events. MATERIAL AND METHODS A cross-sectional study was conducted among 392 women in Abbottabad, Pakistan, using a pre-structured and validated questionnaire to evaluate information on the types of cosmetics, their use, and their associated adverse events. Part 1 of the study collected information about demographics. Part 2 contained a total of 11 items, and collected the frequency of use of cosmetic on skin and hair care products. Part 3 consisted of 4 items and collected information about problems encountered due to the use of cosmetics. RESULTS In the winter season, 47.7% (n=187) of women preferred chemical-based cosmetic products, while 30.9% (n=121) preferred Ayurvedic products. Among commonly used cosmetic products, 26.9% (n=106) of women used foundations. The most frequently used skin care product was face wash 39.5% (n=155). The most prevalent adverse events related to cosmetics were pimples (19.9%, n=78), redness (17.6%, n=69), and eye discomfort (15.8%, n=62). Furthermore, 51.3% (n=201) strongly agreed that cosmetics aid in getting a whiter complexion. CONCLUSIONS The survey concluded that most women preferred cosmetics with a chemical base, which are associated with rashes, redness, and acne. It is important to encourage cosmetovigilance and awareness campaigns among cosmetic product sellers and users.

Social Media Use in Dermatology in Turkey: Challenges and Tips for Patient Health

Social media has established its place in our daily lives, especially with the advent of the COVID-19 pandemic. It has become the leading source of information for dermatological literacy on various topics, ranging from skin diseases to everyday skincare and cosmetic purposes in the present digital era. Accumulated evidence indicates that accurate medical content constitutes only a tiny fraction of the exponentially growing dermatological information on digital platforms, highlighting an unmet patient need for access to evidence-based information on social media. However, there have been no recent local publications from Turkey analyzing and assessing the key elements in raising dermatological literacy and awareness in digital communication for patients. To the best of our knowledge, this study is the first collaborative work between health care professionals and a social media specialist in the medical literature. Furthermore, it represents the first author-initiated implementation science attempt focusing on the use of social media in addressing dermatological problems, with the primary end point of increasing health literacy and patient benefits. The multidisciplinary expert panel was formed by 4 dermatologists with academic credentials and significant influence in public health and among patients on digital platforms. A social media specialist, who serves as a guest lecturer on "How social media works" at Istanbul Technical University, Turkey, was invited to the panel as an expert on digital communication. The panel members had a kickoff meeting to establish the context for the discussion points. The context of the advisory board meeting was outlined under 5 headlines. Two weeks later, the panel members presented their social media account statistics, defined the main characteristics of dermatology patients on social media, and discussed their experiences with patients on digital platforms. These discussions were organized under the predefined headlines and in line with the current literature. We aimed to collect expert opinions on identifying the main characteristics of individuals interested in dermatological topics and to provide recommendations to help dermatologists increase evidence-based dermatological content on social media. Additionally, experts discussed paradigms for dermatological outreach and the role of dermatologists in reducing misleading information on digital platforms in Turkey. The main concluding remark of this study is that dermatologists should enhance their social media presence to increase evidence-based knowledge by applying the principles of patient-physician communication on digital platforms while maintaining a professional stance. To achieve this goal, dermatologists should share targeted scientific content after increasing their knowledge about the operational rules of digital channels. This includes correctly identifying the needs of those seeking information on social media and preparing a sustainable social media communication plan. This viewpoint reflects Turkish dermatologists' experiences with individuals searching for dermatological information on local digital platforms; therefore, the applicability of recommendations may be limited and should be carefully considered.

Punica granatum L. (Pomegranate) Extracts and Their Effects on Healthy and Diseased Skin

The aim of this review is to provide a summary of the botany, phytochemistry and dermatological effects of Punica granatum (PG), with special emphasis on therapeutic mechanisms in various skin conditions. PG peel contains the highest levels of chemical compounds. Due to the high abundance of polyphenolic compounds, including phenolic acids, anthocyanins and flavonoids, exhibiting strong antioxidant properties, PG peel possesses significant health-promoting effects. Up until now, different parts of PG in the form of various extracts, fixed seed oil or individual active compounds have been investigated for various effects on skin conditions in in vitro and in vivo studies, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, chemoprotective and antiaging effects, as well as positive effects on striae distensae, skin repair mechanisms, erythema, pigmentation and psoriasis. Therefore, formulations containing PG active compounds have been used for skincare of diseased and healthy skin. Only a few effects have been confirmed on human subjects. Based on encouraging results obtained in in vitro and animal studies about the numerous substantial dermatological effects of PG active compounds, future perspectives should incorporate more in vivo investigations in human volunteers. This approach can aid in identifying the optimal concentrations and formulations that would be most efficacious in addressing specific skin conditions.

Use of Collagen in Cosmetic Products

Collagen (CLG) belongs to the family of fibrillar proteins and is composed of left-handed α polypeptide chains, which, twisting around themselves and their axis, form a right-handed superhelix. In the chemical structure, it contains mainly proline, hydroxyproline, glycine, and hydroxylysine. It occurs naturally in the dermis in the form of fibers that provide the skin with proper density and elasticity. The review aimed to present the types of collagen protein, factors affecting its structure and its unusual role in the functioning of the human body. Also, an overview of cosmetic products containing collagen or its derivatives, the characteristics of the formulas of these products, and the effects of their use were presented. Throughout the market, there are many cosmetic and cosmeceutical products containing CLG. They are in the form of fillers administered as injections, belonging to the group of the oldest tissue fillers; products administered orally and for topical use, such as creams, gels, serums, or cosmetic masks. Analyzed studies have shown that the use of products with collagen or its peptides improves the general condition of the skin and delays the aging process by reducing the depth of wrinkles, improving hydration (in the case of oral preparations), reducing transepithelial water loss (TEWL), as well as improving skin density and elasticity. In addition, oral application of bioactive CLG peptides has shown a positive effect on the nails, reducing the frequency of their breakage.

Acrylates in artificial nails-Results of product analyses and glove penetration studies

BACKGROUND

Artificial nail materials are mixtures that are prone to contain several sensitizing (meth)acrylates. It is not known whether the listing of (meth)acrylates is correct in these products' packages. Protective gloves suited for nail work are needed.

OBJECTIVES

To analyse (meth)acrylates in gel nail and acrylic nail products chemically and to compare the results with the information in the product labels, and to study penetration of artificial nail materials through selected disposable gloves.

METHODS

We analysed 31 gel nail products and 6 acrylic nail products for their (meth)acrylate content by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). We tested the penetration of two nail products through three disposable gloves: nitrile rubber, neoprene rubber and polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

RESULTS

Altogether 32/37 products contained (meth)acrylates. In all of them, there was discrepancy between the listed (meth)acrylates and those discovered in the analysis. The commonest (meth)acrylates were hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA, 20/37 samples) and hydroxypropyl methacrylate (HPMA, 9/37 samples), but many of the product packages failed to declare them. Isobornyl acrylate (IBA) was discovered in nine gel nail products. The neoprene glove could withstand nail gel for 20 min and thin nitrile glove and PVC glove for 5 min. Acrylic nail liquid penetrated through disposable gloves quickly.

CONCLUSIONS

Labelling of artificial nail products was notably incorrect on most products. Requirements for product labelling must be updated so that the risk of sensitization associated with artificial nail products is clearly indicated. Disposable gloves can probably be used short-term in gel nail work, whereas disposable gloves do not protect the user from acrylic nail liquids.

Suitability of different reconstructed human skin models in the skin and liver Chip2 microphysiological model to investigate the kinetics and first-pass skin metabolism of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene

The HUMIMIC skin-liver Chip2 microphysiological systems model using the epidermal model, EpiDerm™, was reported previously to mimic application route-dependent metabolism of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene (AHT). Therefore, we evaluated the use of alternative skin models-SkinEthic™, EpiDermFT™ and PhenionFT™-for the same purpose. In static incubations, AHT permeation was similar using SkinEthic™ and EpiDerm™ models. Older Day 21 (D21) SkinEthic™ models with a thicker stratum corneum did not exhibit a greater barrier to AHT (overall permeation was the same in D17 and D21 models). All epidermal models metabolised AHT, with the EpiDerm™ exhibiting higher N-acetylation than SkinEthic™ models. AHT metabolism by D21 SkinEthic™ models was lower than that by D17 SkinEthic™ and EpiDerm™ models, thus a thicker stratum corneum was associated with fewer viable cells and a lower metabolic activity. AHT permeation was much slower using PhenionFT™ compared to epidermal models and better reflected permeation of AHT through native human skin. This model also extensively metabolised AHT to N-acetyl-AHT. After a single topical or systemic application of AHT to Chip2 model with PhenionFT™, medium was analysed for parent and metabolites over 5 days. The first-pass metabolism of AHT was demonstrated, and the introduction of a wash step after 30 min decreased the exposure to AHT and its metabolites by 33% and 40%-43%, respectively. In conclusion, epidermal and FT skin models used in the Chip2 can mimic the first-pass skin metabolism of AHT. This highlights the flexibility of the Chip2 to incorporate different skin models according to the purpose.

Efficacy of castor oil cream in treating infraorbital hyperpigmentation: An exploratory single-arm clinical trial

INTRODUCTION

Infraorbital hyperpigmentation represents one of the most prevalent conditions in cosmetic dermatology. To treat this condition, many patients prefer natural remedies. This study explored the efficacy of topical castor oil cream in treating patients with infraorbital hyperpigmentation.

METHODS

We conducted an exploratory single-arm clinical trial at the Shahid Faghihi Dermatology Clinic and Molecular Dermatology Research Center of Shiraz University of Medical Sciences, Shiraz, Iran, during 2021-2022. Using the convenience sampling method, we enrolled 25 patients with infraorbital hyperpigmentation. We instructed the patients to apply topical castor oil cream twice daily for 2 months. The darkness, melanin, and erythema levels were evaluated by VisioFace® 1000 D and SkinColorCatch® devices. We used a visual analog scale to assess skin laxity, wrinkles, and patient satisfaction. Data analysis was done with Stata version 14.2.

RESULTS

The data of 22 patients with a mean age of 40.92 ± 7.33 years were analyzed. The VisioFace® scores decreased significantly by the end of the study [right eyes: mean difference (MD): -5.63 (95% CI: -7.12 to -4.15), p < 0.001; left eyes: MD: -5.91 (95% CI: -7.46 to -4.36), p < 0.001]. Moreover, castor oil cream significantly reduced the melanin level, wrinkles, and skin laxity in the infraorbital region (p < 0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

Castor oil cream seems to be an effective alternative for treating infraorbital hyperpigmentation. Randomized clinical trials are needed to confirm our findings.

A cross-sectional review of contact allergens in popular self-tanning products

Background

In recent years, self-tanners have become a well-liked alternative to sun tanning and tanning bed usage, as strikingly similar results can be achieved without the harmful side effects of ultraviolet exposure.

Objective

The aim of this study is to investigate the presence and prevalence of potential allergens in the most popular self-tanning products.

Methods

Five major retailers in the United States were evaluated, from which 17 different brands and 44 unique self-tanning products were analyzed. The ingredients in each self-tanning product were compared with 80 and 36 notable contact allergens taken from the North American Contact Dermatitis Group and Food and Drug Administration-approved T.R.U.E (Thin-Layer Rapid Use Epicutaneous Patch Test), respectively.

Results

We found that contact allergens are frequently present in self-tanning products; allergens especially common are propylene glycol, linalool, polysorbate, d-limonene, benzyl alcohol, tocopherol (vitamin E), fragrances, and other scented botanicals. On average, each self-tanner we analyzed contained 11.86 allergens.

Limitations

The limitation is that commercial names could not be eliminated from the analysis, introducing potential bias.

Conclusion

While self-tanning products are a safer alternative to tanning bed use or sunbathing, consumers and clinicians alike must be aware that they may cause an allergic reaction of the skin for some users.

Effects of the COVID-19 Pandemic On Patient Social Media Use and Acceptance of Cosmetic Procedures

Objective

We sought to explore facets of social media usage and the effect of the COVID-19 pandemic on the acceptance of cosmetic procedures.

Methods

At an outpatient dermatology clinic from October 2019 to June 2022, 175 subjects who were English and Spanish speaking and aged 18 years or older were recruited. Participants completed a questionnaire including demographic information, social media usage, perceptions of cosmetic procedures, and desire to have a cosmetic procedure. Results were grouped into a pre-COVID-19 pandemic group and post-COVID-19 pandemic group due to a natural experiment that arose. Data were analyzed to ascertain the effect of social media usage and other factors that impact desire to undergo a cosmetic procedure between patients before and after the COVID-19 pandemic.

Results

Factors resulting in differences in desire to have a cosmetic procedure included using photo editing applications (p=0.002), following celebrities and influencers on social media (p<0.001), and following social media accounts showing cosmetic results (p=0.013). There was a statistically significant change in number of participants that: followed social media accounts showing results of cosmetic procedures (pre-COVID: 31.9%, post-COVID: 50.6%, p=0.036); had thought about having a cosmetic procedure done (pre-COVID: 63.8%, post-COVID: 86.4%, p<0.001); had discussed cosmetic procedures with a physician, dermatologist, or other professional (pre-COVID: 43.6%, post-COVID: 67.9%, p=0.001); and believed that a cosmetic procedure would help their self-esteem (pre-COVID: 47.9%, post-COVID: 77.8%, p<0.001).

Limitations

Limitations of this study include response bias, recall bias, and single institution study design, limiting generalizability.

Conclusion

Our findings suggest that time spent on social media and use of photo-editing applications significantly contributes to desire to undergo a cosmetic procedure and contributed to the rise of cosmetic consultations during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Differences in the annotation between facial images and videos for training an artificial intelligence for skin type determination

BACKGROUND

The Grand-AID research project, consisting of GRANDEL-The Beautyness Company, the dermatology department of Augsburg University Hospital and the Chair of IT Infrastructure for Translational Medical Research at Augsburg University, is currently researching the development of a digital skin consultation tool that uses artificial intelligence (AI) to analyze the user's skin and ultimately perform a personalized skin analysis and a customized skin care routine. Training the AI requires annotation of various skin features on facial images. The central question is whether videos are better suited than static images for assessing dynamic parameters such as wrinkles and elasticity. For this purpose, a pilot study was carried out in which the annotations on images and videos were compared.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Standardized image sequences as well as a video with facial expressions were taken from 25 healthy volunteers. Four raters with dermatological expertise annotated eight features (wrinkles, redness, shine, pores, pigmentation spots, dark circles, skin sagging, and blemished skin) with a semi-quantitative and a linear scale in a cross-over design to evaluate differences between the image modalities and between the raters.

RESULTS

In the videos, most parameters tended to be assessed with higher scores than in the images, and in some cases significantly. Furthermore, there were significant differences between the raters.

CONCLUSION

The present study shows significant differences between the two evaluation methods using image or video analysis. In addition, the evaluation of the skin analysis depends on subjective criteria. Therefore, when training the AI, we recommend regular training of the annotating individuals and cross-validation of the annotation.

Stimuli-Responsive Polymers for Engineered Emulsions

Emulsions are complex. Dispersing two immiscible phases, thus expanding an interface, requires effort to achieve and the resultant dispersion is thermodynamically unstable, driving the system toward coalescence. Furthermore, physical instabilities, including creaming, arise due to presence of dispersed droplets of different densities to a continuous phase. Emulsions allow the formulation of oils, can act as vehicles to solubilize both hydrophilic and lipophilic molecules, and can be tailored to desirable rheological profiles, including "gel-like" behavior and shear thinning. The usefulness of emulsions can be further expanded by imparting stimuli-responsive or "smart" behaviors by inclusion of a stimuli-responsive emulsifier, polymer or surfactant. This enables manipulation like gelation, breaking, or aggregation, by external triggers such as pH, temperature, or salt concentration changes. This platform generates functional materials for pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, oil recovery, and colloid engineering, combining both smart behaviors and intrinsic benefit of emulsions. However, with increased functionality comes greater complexity. This review focuses on the use of stimuli-responsive polymers for the generation of smart emulsions, motivated by the great adaptability of polymers for this application and their efficacy as steric stabilizers. Stimuli-responsive emulsions are described according to the trigger used to provide the reader with an overview of progress in this field.

Impact of Anti-PEG IgM Induced via the Topical Application of a Cosmetic Product Containing PEG Derivatives on the Antitumor Effects of PEGylated Liposomal Antitumor Drug Formulations in Mice

Poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) is used in many common products, such as cosmetics. PEG, however, is also used to covalently conjugate drug molecules, proteins, or nanocarriers, which is termed PEGylation, to serve as a shield against the natural immune system of the human body. Repeated administration of some PEGylated products, however, is known to induce anti-PEG antibodies. In addition, preexisting anti-PEG antibodies are now being detected in healthy individuals who have never received PEGylated therapeutics. Both treatment-induced and preexisting anti-PEG antibodies alter the pharmacokinetic properties, which can result in a subsequent reduction in the therapeutic efficacy of administered PEGylated therapeutics through the so-called accelerated blood clearance (ABC) phenomenon. Moreover, these anti-PEG antibodies are widely reported to be related to severe hypersensitivity reactions following the administration of PEGylated therapeutics, including COVID-19 vaccines. We recently reported that the topical application of a cosmetic product containing PEG derivatives induced anti-PEG immunoglobulin M (IgM) in a mouse model. Our finding indicates that the PEG derivatives in cosmetic products could be a major cause of the preexistence of anti-PEG antibodies in healthy individuals. In this study, therefore, the pharmacokinetics and therapeutic effects of Doxil (doxorubicin hydrochloride-loaded PEGylated liposomes) and oxaliplatin-loaded PEGylated liposomes (Liposomal l-OHP) were studied in mice. The anti-PEG IgM antibodies induced by the topical application of cosmetic products obviously accelerated the blood clearance of both PEGylated liposomal formulations. Moreover, in C26 tumor-bearing mice, the tumor growth suppressive effects of both Doxil and Liposomal l-OHP were significantly attenuated in the presence of anti-PEG IgM antibodies induced by the topical application of cosmetic products. These results confirm that the topical application of a cosmetic product containing PEG derivatives could produce preexisting anti-PEG antibodies that then affect the therapeutic efficacy of subsequent doses of PEGylated therapeutics.

Application of a skin and liver Chip2 microphysiological model to investigate the route-dependent toxicokinetics and toxicodynamics of consumer-relevant doses of genistein

The HUMMIC skin-liver Chip2 microphysiological system using EpiDerm™ and HepaRG and stellate liver spheroids was used to evaluate the route-specific metabolism and toxicodynamic effects of genistein. Human-relevant exposure levels were compared: 60 nM representing the plasma concentration expected after topical application of a cosmetic product and 1 μM representing measured plasma concentrations after ingesting soya products. Genistein was applied as single and repeated topical and/or systemic doses. The kinetics of genistein and its metabolites were measured over 5 days. Toxicodynamic effects were measured using transcriptional analyses of skin and liver organoids harvested on Days 2 and 5. Route-specific differences in genistein's bioavailability were observed, with first-pass metabolism (sulfation) occurring in the skin after topical application. Only repeated application of 1 μM, resembling daily oral intake of soya products, induced statistically significant changes in gene expression in liver organoids only. This was concomitant with a much higher systemic concentration of genistein which was not reached in any other dosing scenario. This suggests that single or low doses of genistein are rapidly metabolised which limits its toxicodynamic effects on the liver and skin. Therefore, by facilitating longer and/or repeated applications, the Chip2 can support safety assessments by linking relevant gene modulation with systemically available parent or metabolite(s). The rate of metabolism was in accordance with the short half-life observed in in vivo in humans, thus supporting the relevance of the findings. In conclusion, the skin-liver Chip2 provides route-specific information on metabolic fate and toxicodynamics that may be relevant to safety assessment.

Patterns of simultaneous contact allergies in patients with contact sensitization to oxidised linalool and oxidised limonene

BACKGROUND

Contact allergy rates of linalool and limonene hydroperoxides (HPs) have increased.

OBJECTIVES

To demonstrate the patterns of simultaneous positive patch test (PT) reactions and prevalences of multiple contact allergies (MCAs) in patients with contact allergy to linalool and/or limonene HPs.

METHODS

A retrospective analysis of consecutive dermatitis patients in 2015-2020 was performed.

RESULTS

Of all 4192 patients, 1851 had at least one positive PT reaction. Of these, 410 (22.2%) had MCAs, significantly related to a higher age (p-value = 0.003). Patients with an exclusively positive reaction to linalool HPs but not limonene HPs were shown to have MCAs (p-value <0.001, odds ratio (95% confidence interval) = 4.15 (3.01-5.73)). Patients with simultaneous contact allergies to both linalool and limonene HPs had contact allergies to many other screening and fragrance allergens.

CONCLUSIONS

Simultaneous positive PT reactions to allergens in baseline series and fragrances are common in patients with the HPs contact allergy, especially linalool HPs. The pattern of simultaneous PT reactions principally suggested the co-sensitization of the cosmetic allergens.

Potential role of the cell-penetrating peptide-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2-patterned peptide in novel cosmeceutical skin product development

AIM

This study aimed to investigate and verify the effect of cell-penetrating peptide (CPP)-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2 (VAMP2)-patterned peptide (INCI name: Acetyl sh-Oligopeptide-26 sh-Oligopeptide-27 SP, trade name: M.Biome-BT) on improving skin function in vitro.

METHODS

The cytotoxicity of CPP-conjugated SNARE motif of VAMP2-patterned peptide (CVP) was investigated using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay against B16-F10 cells and human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and a reconstructed skin irritation test. The anti-wrinkle activity of M.Biome-BT was determined by assessing the release of norepinephrine and dopamine in PC-12 cells via ELISA. The skin-whitening effects of CVP were assessed in B16-F10 cells by measuring the intra- and extracellular melanin contents and expression levels of melanin production-related genes, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2.

RESULTS

CVP is not cytotoxic to B16-F10 cells and HDFs, and no skin irritation was observed. CVP treatment considerably diminished K+ -induced norepinephrine and dopamine secretion compared with the non-treated control group (62% and 40%, respectively). Additionally, the inhibition ability of CVP on norepinephrine and dopamine release was comparable to that of botulinum neurotoxin type A (BoNT/A). CVP also increased intracellular melanin content in a dose-dependent manner, whereas extracellular melanin content decreased (76%-85%). However, CVP treatment did not affect the mRNA expression of MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2. These results suggest that CVP does not inhibit melanin production; however, it may induce a whitening effect by inhibiting melanin transport.

CONCLUSIONS

Taken together, our findings indicate that CVP could be used as an active and safe cosmeceutical ingredient for antiaging applications.

Market analysis of the presence of endocrine disrupting chemicals in cosmetic products intended for oncological patients and other vulnerable groups

There is growing concern about the presence of endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs) in cosmetics. We aimed to identify the main cosmetic ingredients with suspected endocrine-disrupting properties, and analyse their presence in current marketed products. Particular attention was given to products intended for susceptible (due to physiological status) and vulnerable (due to specific pathologies) groups with a view to informing cosmetologists and related health professionals of the scientific basis and current status of any concerns. Suspected EDCs used as cosmetic ingredients, included in lists published by regulatory agencies, were documented and investigated by weight of evidence analysis based on endocrine-related toxicity studies. In total, 49 suspected EDCs were identified from a sample of over a thousand cosmetic products marketed in the European Union. Suspected EDCs were found in approximately one third of products, with a similar frequency in products intended for susceptible and vulnerable groups. Avobenzone (CAS number:70356-09-1), octisalate (CAS number: 118-60-5), and butylated hydroxytoluene (CAS number: 128-37-0) were mostly commonly identified. The presence of EDCs was particularly high for sun care cosmetic products. Our results highlight potentially significant exposure through cosmetics to substances currently studied by regulatory institutions as suspected endocrine disrupters. EDCs are not yet universally regulated, and informing health professionals and educating the population as a precaution are options to reduce individual exposure levels, especially in vulnerable and susceptible groups. Special recommendations are needed for products intended for oncological patients.

Assessment of hair loss and skin changes during treatment in Asian breast cancer patients: A prospective cohort study

With the increasing number of young breast cancer (BC) patients worldwide, concerns about hair loss and skin change persist among BC survivors. This study aimed to evaluate the hair loss and skin changes in Asian BC patients and to compare them according to the treatment regimens. This study enrolled 322 patients scheduled to undergo BC surgery. Hair loss and skin changes were assessed at the following two time points: one day before surgery and 6 months after surgery. Patients who had received systemic anticancer treatment before surgery were assigned to the neoadjuvant treatment group, while patients who were scheduled to receive systemic anticancer treatment were assigned to the adjuvant treatment group. In the adjuvant treatment group, patients with taxane-based chemotherapy had significantly higher odds of increased hair loss, a higher melanin index, and an increased volume of wrinkles (p < 0.0001, p = 0.0110, and p = 0.0371, respectively). In the neoadjuvant treatment group, hair loss was reversed in most patients at 6 months after surgery. Clinicians should inform BC patients about the potential for hair loss and skin changes and provide supportive care to mitigate the effects on the patients' quality of life.

Safety of dermatologic medications in pregnancy and lactation: An Update - Part II: Lactation

Multiple recently approved medications have been added to our treatment armamentarium for various dermatologic conditions. Herein, we have reviewed the literature, consolidated available safety data, and offered recommendations based upon available evidence as a reference guide for clinicians treating patients for dermatologic conditions during lactation.

Associations of personal care products use with reproductive outcomes of IVF/ICSI treatment

Introduction

Personal care products (PCPs) contain a number of endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) that could potentially affect the reproductive function in women of childbearing age. However, studies focused on the effects of PCPs use on reproductive outcomes are very limited. The current study aimed to explore the relationships between PCPs use patterns and reproductive outcomes in women undergoing in vitro fertilization/intracytoplasmic sperm injection (IVF/ICSI) treatment.

Methods

A total of 1500 women from the Tongji Reproductive and Environmental (TREE) study between December 2018 and January 2020 were included in this study. Participants provided characteristics of PCPs use within the previous three months. Retrieved oocyte number, mature oocyte number, two distinct pronuclei (2PN) zygote number, fertilization rate, cleavage rate, blastocyst formation rate, implantation, clinical pregnancy, miscarriage, and live birth were followed up as reproductive endpoints. Generalized linear regression model was utilized to assess the associations between various categories of PCPs use and reproductive endpoints of IVF/ICSI.

Results

After adjusting for relevant covariates, women who used skin care products ≥14 times per week had a reduction of 22.4% in the maturation rate (95% CI: -39.2%, -1.6%) compared to participants who did not use skin care products. After transferring fresh embryos, women who used cosmetics 1-2 times per week (adjusted OR = 2.2, 95% CI: 1.0, 4.8) or 3-7 times per week (adjusted OR = 2.5, 95% CI: 1.2, 5.2) had a higher possibility of miscarriage than those who did not use cosmetics. There was negative association between the use of gel or soap and the cleavage rate among women aged < 30 years old (P for interaction = 0.01). Among women with BMI ≥ 24 kg/m2, the use of gel or soap was negatively associated with the blastocyst formation rate (P for interaction = 0.04), while cosmetics use was negatively associated with the maturation rate (P for interaction = 0.001).

Conclusion

Our findings suggest that the use of PCPs in women of reproductive age have a potential adverse impact on IVF/ICSI outcomes, particularly skin care and cosmetic products.

Heavy metal and microbial testing of selected cosmetic products in the Palestinian market

Excessive and continuous use of cosmetic products containing heavy metals can lead to harmful effects. International regulations mandate limited quantities of heavy metals contamination in cosmetic preparations to ensure consumer safety. This research aims to evaluate heavy metal and microbial contamination levels in selected cosmetic products available in the Palestinian market. We collected 35 samples randomly from 23 companies, representing four product types, and analyzed them for the presence of seven heavy metals: zinc (Zn), cadmium (Cd), lead (Pb), chromium (Cr), iron (Fe), copper (Cu), and arsenic (As) using an atomic absorption spectrometer. We also interviewed pharmacists who sold these cosmetics to assess their knowledge of allowed limits and toxic effects associated with increased heavy metal content in cosmetics. The results indicated that all tested products exceeded the allowed limit for Cd (9.5 ± 2.3 ppm), Cu (33.8 ± 9.2 ppm), and Zn (151.0 ± 7.4 ppm). However, none of the tested samples showed microbial contamination. These findings underscore the significant heavy metal contamination of cosmetics present in the Palestinian market. Thus, there is a pressing need to register and quality-test all cosmetic products sold in the Palestinian market and to raise the pharmacists' awareness and knowledge regarding heavy metals in cosmetics.

Anti-Aging Properties of Chitosan-Based Hydrogels Rich in Bilberry Fruit Extract

Photoaging is a process related to an increased level of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Polyphenols can scavenge free radicals in the body, which can delay skin aging. Therefore, our work aimed to prepare a biologically active extract from dry fruits of Vaccinium myrtillus or Vaccinium corymbosum and use it for the preparation of hydrogels for topical application. Therefore, eight different extracts (using V. myrtillus and V. corymbosum and different extraction mixtures: methanol, methanol-water 1:1, water, acetone-water 1:1) were prepared and their phytochemical (total polyphenolic content, total flavonoid content, total anthocyanin content) and biological properties (antioxidant, anti-hyaluronidase, and anti-tyrosinase activity) were assessed. Cytotoxicity towards HaCaT keratinocytes was also determined. Based on the results, the acetone-water extract from V. myrtillus was selected for further study. Using the Design of Experiments approach, chitosan-based hydrogels with bilberry fruit extract were prepared. The content of extract and chitosan were selected as independent factors. The activity of hydrogels depended on the extract content; however, the enzyme-inhibiting (anti-hyaluronidase and anti-tyrosinase) activity resulted from the presence of both the extract and chitosan. Increased concentration of chitosan in the hydrogel base led to increased viscosity of the hydrogel and, consequently, a slower release of active compounds. To get optimal hydrogel characteristics, 1% extract and 2.5% MMW chitosan were utilized. The research suggests the validity of using bilberry fruit extracts in topical preparations with anti-aging properties.

Decoding Cosmetic Complexities: A Comprehensive Guide to Matrix Composition and Pretreatment Technology

Despite advancements in analytical technologies, the complex nature of cosmetic matrices, coupled with the presence of diverse and trace unauthorized additives, hinders the application of these technologies in cosmetics analysis. This not only impedes effective regulation of cosmetics but also leads to the continual infiltration of illegal products into the market, posing serious health risks to consumers. The establishment of cosmetic regulations is often based on extensive scientific experiments, resulting in a certain degree of latency. Therefore, timely advancement in laboratory research is crucial to ensure the timely update and adaptability of regulations. A comprehensive understanding of the composition of cosmetic matrices and their pretreatment technologies is vital for enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of cosmetic detection. Drawing upon the China National Medical Products Administration's 2021 Cosmetic Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue, we streamline the wide array of cosmetics into four principal categories based on the following compositions: emulsified, liquid, powdered, and wax-based cosmetics. In this review, the characteristics, compositional elements, and physicochemical properties inherent to each category, as well as an extensive overview of the evolution of pretreatment methods for different categories, will be explored. Our objective is to provide a clear and comprehensive guide, equipping researchers with profound insights into the core compositions and pretreatment methods of cosmetics, which will in turn advance cosmetic analysis and improve detection and regulatory approaches in the industry.

Chemical Compositions, Pharmacological Properties and Medicinal Effects of Genus Passiflora L.: A Review

Practically all aboveground plants parts of Passiflora vines can be included in the compositions of dietary supplements, medicines, and cosmetics. It has a diverse chemical composition and a wide range of biologically active components that determine its diverse pharmacological properties. Studies related to the chemical composition of the plant are summarized here, and attention has been paid to various medical applications-(1) anti-inflammatory, nephroprotective; (2) anti-depressant; (3) antidiabetic; (4) hepatoprotective; (5) antibacterial and antifungal; and (6) antipyretic and other. This review includes studies on the safety, synergistic effects, and toxicity that may occur with the use of various dietary supplements based on it. Attention has been drawn to its application in cosmetics and to patented products containing passionflower.

[Rapid determination of 87 prohibited ingredients in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry]

The methods of detecting numerous prohibited components are not included in the Technical Specifications for Cosmetic Safety (2015 Edition). Recently, owing to its high speed, sensitivity, and anti-interference properties, ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) became the preferred method of detecting banned substances in cosmetics. In this study, a UPLC-MS/MS method was developed for use in determining 87 prohibited ingredients in cosmetics, including 33 sex hormones, 20 anti-infective drugs, 15 antihistamines, 7 coumarins, 4 sedative-hypnotic drugs, 4 antipyretic and analgesic drugs, 2 allergenic fragrances, and 2 drugs with vasoconstriction effects. The main factors affecting the response, recovery, and sensitivity of the method, such as the type of extraction solvent, extraction time, ratio of the mobile phases, and MS conditions, were optimized during sample pretreatment and instrumental analysis. Accordingly, approximately 0.2 g of the toner or cream sample was dispersed in 2 mL acetonitrile in a 10 mL colorimetric tube. After diluting to 10 mL with 50% acetonitrile aqueous solution, the sample was ultrasonically extracted for 20 min and centrifuged, and the mixture was then filtered through a 0.22 μm membrane. Approximately 0.2 g of the oil sample was dispersed in 2 mL n-hexane in a 15 mL polypropylene centrifuge tube and extracted twice with 3 mL 70% acetonitrile aqueous solution. The extracts were transferred into a 10 mL colorimetric tube and diluted to 10 mL with 50% acetonitrile aqueous solution, and the mixture was then filtered through a 0.22 μm membrane. The samples were separated using a CORTECS C18 column (150 mm×2.1 mm, 2.7 μm), employing a gradient elution program with acetonitrile and 0.1% formic acid aqueous solution as the mobile phases. The flow rate, column temperature, and injection volume were respectively set at 0.3 mL/min, 40 ℃, and 2 μL. The 87 compounds were monitored in multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode with electrospray ionization (ESI) under positive and negative conditions. Matrix-matched external standard calibration was used for quantification, and the analysis was completed within 33 min. The prohibited compounds exhibited good linear relationships, with r values of >0.99, and the limits of detection (LODs) and quantification (LOQs) for the 87 compounds were 0.07-0.38 and 0.21-1.15 μg/g, respectively. Three types of cosmetic matrices were selected to verify the recovery and precision of the method at LOQ, 2 LOQ, and 10 LOQ levels. The average recoveries of the 87 prohibited compounds were in the range of 81.7%-115.4%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs, n=6) were 0.4%-9.9%. The reliability of the developed method was demonstrated by applying it to 349 commercial cosmetics obtained from the market, and 8 positive samples were identified. The positive components included trimethoprim, terbinafine, naphazoline, 7-methoxycoumarin, and 7-methylcoumarin. The established method displays the advantages of simple operation and rapidness and a high sensitivity and good recovery. And, this method provides technical support for rapid risk screening and the revision of national standards for cosmetics.

[Determination of 15 preservative allergens in cosmetics by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry]

Most preservatives are irritating and can easily induce skin sensitivities. Therefore, both domestic and international regulations impose clear restrictions on the use of preservatives in cosmetics. Herein, gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) was employed to simultaneously analyze the levels of 15 preservative allergens in cosmetics. Further, a precise identification approach based on a two-column retention index and mass spectrometry matching degree was developed. Cosmetic samples were extracted via acetonitrile vortex ultrasound extraction and then dehydrated with anhydrous MgSO4. The preservative allergens were separated on two columns, namely, DB-5MS and DB-WAX. Targets were identified using electron impact ionization (EI) source and the multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode and characterized using a retention index calibrated by a series of n-alkane standards. Following two tests, the LODs for the 15 preservative allergens on the DB-5MS column were in the range of 0.02-0.2 mg/kg, while those for 12 preservative allergens on the DB-WAX column were in the range of 0.01-20 mg/kg. The preservative allergens on the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns demonstrated strong correlations, with all correlation coefficients exceeding 0.99. The recoveries for the 15 preservative allergens were in the range of 70.1%-129.8% at low, medium, and high levels, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs) were all below 15% (n=6) when using water, lotion, facial mask, and cream as the representative matrix. Next, 80 batches of genuine samples were tested using the established method. Isopropyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, a prohibited preservative, was detected in two sample batches using the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns. Additionally, 11 and 10 restricted preservative allergens were identified on the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns, respectively. The test results indicate that the double-column system approach offers excellent accuracy, effectively preventing false-positive and false-negative results, and can detect the 15 preservative allergens in cosmetics. The use of the retention index for the qualitative detection of these preservative allergens offers valuable options for non-targeted screening and meeting regulatory criteria.

Chemical profiling and dermatological and anti-aging properties of Syzygium jambos L. (Alston): evidence from molecular docking, molecular dynamics, and in vitro experiments

The phytoconstituents of the aqueous extract from Syzygium jambos L. (Alston) leaves were defined using HPLC-PDA-MS/MS and the antioxidant, anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-biofilm activities of the extract were in silico and in vitro investigated. The antioxidant activities were performed using in vitro DPPH and FRAP assays as well as H2-DCFDA assay in HaCaT cells in which oxidative stress was induced by UVA radiation. Anti-aging activity was tested in vitro, using aging-related enzymes. The antibacterial, anti-biofilm and inhibitory effects on bacterial mobilities (swarming and swimming) were assessed against Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Results showed that S. jambos aqueous extract contained 28 phytochemicals belonging to different metabolite classes, mainly phenolic acids, gallic acid derivatives, flavonoids, and ellagitannins. Mineral content analysis showed that S. jambos leaves contained moderate amounts of nitrogen, potassium, manganese, magnesium, and zinc, relatively low amounts of phosphorus and copper, and high concentration of calcium and iron. The extract displayed strong antioxidant activities in vitro and inhibited UVA-induced oxidative stress in HaCaT cells. Docking the major compounds identified in the extract into the four main protein targets involved in skin aging revealed an appreciable inhibitory potential of these compounds against tyrosinase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase enzymes. Moreover, molecular dynamic simulations were adopted to confirm the binding affinity of some selected compounds towards the target enzymes. The extract exhibited pronounced in vitro anti-aging effects, compared to kojic acid and quercetin (the reference compounds). It also inhibited the growth of P. aeruginosa, counteracted its ability to form biofilm, and impeded its swarming and swimming mobilities. Altogether, these findings strongly propose S. jambos leaves as a promising source of bioactive metabolites for the development of natural cosmeceutical and dermatological agents.

An extensive review on phenolic compounds and their potential estrogenic properties on skin physiology

Polyphenolic compounds constitute a diverse group of natural components commonly occurring in various plant species, known for their potential to exert both beneficial and detrimental effects. Additionally, these polyphenols have also been implicated as endocrine-disrupting (ED) chemicals, raising concerns about their widespread use in the cosmetics industry. In this comprehensive review, we focus on the body of literature pertaining to the estrogenic properties of ED chemicals, with a particular emphasis on the interaction of isoflavones with estrogen receptors. Within this review, we aim to elucidate the multifaceted roles and effects of polyphenols on the skin, exploring their potential benefits as well as their capacity to act as ED agents. By delving into this intricate subject matter, we intend to provoke thoughtful consideration, effectively opening a Pandora's box of questions for the reader to ponder. Ultimately, we invite the reader to contemplate whether polyphenols should be regarded as friends or foes in the realm of skincare and endocrine disruption.

Friction Dynamics of Straight, Curly, and Wavy Hair

Hair shape affects the frictional properties and tactile sensation of hair. In this study, we evaluated the friction associated with the rubbing of straight, curly, or wavy hair by a contact probe equipped in a sinusoidal motion friction evaluation system. This system provides dynamic information such as the velocity dependence and hysteresis of the frictional force. In the case of hair fibers fixed at 1 mm intervals on a glass plate, a stable friction pattern was observed, in which the friction coefficient was almost constant during the dynamic friction process. The friction coefficients in the inward direction toward the hair root for straight, curly, and wavy hair were 0.47 ± 0.04, 0.51 ± 0.02, and 0.54 ± 0.04, respectively. As wavy hair is thick and has a larger true contact area with the contact probe, the friction coefficient was larger. When the finger model rubbed the straight or curly hair bundle in the inward direction, an oscillation pattern was observed, with the friction coefficient fluctuating at 20 ms intervals and the kinetic friction coefficient evaluated at 0.67 and 0.64, respectively. For the surface of straight hair, containing densely arranged cuticles, a large oscillation was observed in the direction against the cuticles. Meanwhile, no oscillation phenomenon was observed in wavy hair, which is characterized by a smooth cuticle and complex hair flow. Because wavy hair, which is frizzy, has fewer points of contact between hairs, impeding the occurrence of cooperative fluctuations in the frictional force.

Evaluation of Risk Factors Associated With Adult-Onset Acne in Patients Attending a Tertiary Care Center in East India: A Case-Control Study

BACKGROUND

In recent years, the aesthetic appearance of the skin has emerged as a crucial factor influencing perceptions of beauty and contributing to self-confidence. The pursuit of flawless skin represents a prevalent focus within beauty regimens. Adult-onset acne (AOA) is the development of acne between the ages of 26 to 50 and it is emerging as a prevalent dermatological concern among this population. Individuals perceiving their skin as falling short of an 'ideal' standard may let it affect their quality of life. Significant gaps in our understanding persist regarding the contributing risk factors for AOA.

OBJECTIVE

The study aims to assess both established and novel risk factors potentially influencing the onset of adult acne. Additionally, it seeks to calculate the odds ratio (OR) for AOA in both females and males exposed to the surveyed risk factors over a 24-month period.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Various risk factors were assessed, including stress, hormonal markers, psychological factors, environmental exposures, dietary habits, and cosmetic use. A total of 140 participants, consisting of 70 healthy individuals were selected. Discordant groups were analyzed for AOA. Detailed interviews were conducted to obtain a comprehensive medical history, focusing on potential risk factors, for patients diagnosed with acne. The OR was calculated to determine the likelihood of association between risk factors and the development of AOA. A proper protocol was devised, and statistical data was analyzed using Statistical Package for Social Sciences (SPSS; IBM Corp., Armonk, NY, USA).

RESULTS

The most significant risk factors in the development of AOA in the Indian population based on OR and confidence interval (CI) were positive personal history of acne (OR 3.12 [95% CI 1.20 - 8.03]), positive family history of acne (OR 10.24 [95% CI 2.89 - 36.1]), overweight BMI (OR 6.16 [95% CI 2.56 - 14.76]), hormonal imbalance (OR 9.27 [95% CI 2.03 - 42.29]), menstrual irregularity in females (OR 12.94 [95% CI 3.59 - 46.53]), exposure to mineral oil or halogenated hydrocarbon use (OR 4.13 [95% CI 1.28 - 13.24]), less than six hours of sleep (OR 4.16 [95% CI 1.10 - 15.64]), chemical peels in females (OR 11.28 [95% CI 2.45 - 51.90]), diet consisting mainly of carbohydrates, high salt, saturated fats (OR 29.97 [95% CI 3.84 - 227.25]) and less than 2 liters of water intake in patients (OR 19.18 [95% CI 1.08 - 339.04]). Risk factors that were associated with a decreased likelihood of AOA included normal menstruation (OR 0.03 [95% CI 0.01 - 0.12]), healthy oral intake (OR 0.04 [95% CI 0.00 - 0.17]), no psychological stressors/depression/anxiety (OR 0.43 [95% CI 0.21 - 0.85]), no environmental factors (OR 0.07 [95% CI 0.02 - 0.24]), no associated cosmetic use (OR 0.45 [95% CI 0.22 - 0.90]), normal BMI (OR 0.18 [95% CI 0.07 - 0.39]), no history of acne (OR 0.12 [95% CI 0.05 - 0.26]).

CONCLUSION

AOA is a complex and multifactorial condition, and most of the risk factors mentioned in this study on Indian skin type contribute to its development. The approach for AOA should be holistic. In addition to following a recommended treatment protocol, education should be provided about lifestyle modification, stress management, exercise, and environmental factors to help prevent and manage AOA.

Cosmeceuticals: A transit state from synthetic to natural

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied cosmetic products containing a biologically active ingredient with a pharmaceutical effect that improves, nourishes, and treats the skin appearance. The trend of cosmeceuticals began during the mid-20th century due to its potent ingredients with therapeutic effects for various skin ailments. Even though there is a great advancement in cosmetics, which shows the risk of cosmetic linked melanoma, endocrine disorders, and birth defects which was one in 1500 people during 1935 have increased to one in 75 people in 2000. Hence, as a part of reducing the harmful effect, natural ingredients were added to the formulation to give the pharmaceutical effect. Thus, natural/herbal cosmeceuticals were introduced. Due to the awareness of the side effects such as photo-toxicity, mutagenicity, irritation by these synthetic products, people started preferring herbal/natural cosmetic products. Moreover, natural cosmeceuticals were proven to be effective against various dermatological conditions as well as have fewer side effects marked the natural/herbal cosmeceuticals in the market. Unlike a drug, cosmeceutical products undergo safety, toxicity, and efficacy tests, but these are not classified under Food and Drug Administration. This review will give an insight into different natural ingredients used in natural/herbal cosmeceutical formulation and their function challenges faced during formulation, advantages of natural cosmeceuticals over regular cosmeceuticals, and regulatory aspects in India.

Microbial pigments: Sources, current status, future challenges in cosmetics and therapeutic applications

Color serves as the initial attraction and offers a pleasing aspect. While synthetic colorants have been popular for many years, their adverse environmental and health effects cannot be overlooked. This necessitates the search for natural colorants, especially microbial colorants, which have proven and more effective. Pigment-producing microorganisms offer substantial benefits. Natural colors improve product marketability and bestow additional benefits, including antioxidant, antiaging, anticancer, antiviral, antimicrobial, and antitumor properties. This review covers the various types of microbial pigments, the methods to enhance their production, and their cosmetic and therapeutic applications. We also address the challenges faced during the commercial production of microbial pigments and propose potential solutions.

Analysis of Three Species of Cassipourea Traditionally Used for Hypermelanosis in Selected Provinces in South Africa

There is a growing demand and use of herbal cosmetics for skin purposes due to their perceived safety when applied to the skin. Three Cassipourea species commonly known as "ummemezi" are used interchangeably by women in rural areas of Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal provinces to treat hypermelanosis as well as sun protection. We conducted a phytochemical comparison of three Cassipourea species; Cassipourea flanaganii (Schinz) Alston, Cassipourea gummiflua Tul. verticillata (N.E.Br.) J. Lewis and Cassipourea malosana (Baker) Alston by Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) analysis in negative mode. The results obtained from the LC-MS/MS yielded a total number of twenty-four compounds of different chemical classes, including fatty acids, steroids, di- and tri-terpenoids, flavonoids, phenolic acids, and eighteen among them were tentatively identified. The LC-MS /MS analysis showed that the three studied Cassipourea extracts contain compounds that have anti-tyrosinase activity and consequently. The presence of these compounds, either in synergy or individually, can be attributed to the anti-tyrosinase effect. Although the traditional names of the species are used interchangeably, they are different, however, they possess similar skin-lightening properties. Despite the recent popularity of modern cosmetic products, plants continue to play an important role in the local cosmetics industry in South Africa's Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal community provinces.

Anti-Aging Potential of a Novel Ingredient Derived from Sugarcane Straw Extract (SSE)

Natural and sustainable anti-aging ingredients have gained attention from the cosmetic industry. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a sugarcane straw extract-based (SSE) cosmetic ingredient. First, cytotoxicity tests were assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblast cell lines, and sensitization was carried out through the direct peptide reactivity assay. Subsequently, various anti-aging properties were investigated, including inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes, promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and anti-pollution activity. Finally, a permeability assay using a synthetic membrane resembling skin was conducted. The results demonstrated that the SSE ingredient effectively inhibited elastase (55%), collagenase (25%), and tyrosinase (47%) while promoting hyaluronic acid production at non-cytotoxic and low-sensitizer concentrations. Moreover, it reduced the inflammatory response provoked by urban pollution, as evidenced by decreased levels of IL1-α and IL-6. However, it was observed that the phenolic compounds predominantly reached the skin's surface, indicating a limited ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, it can be concluded that the SSE ingredient holds anti-aging properties, albeit with limited penetration into deeper skin layers. Further research and formulation advancements are needed to optimize the ingredient's ability to reach and exert its effects in deeper skin layers.

Promising Anti-Wrinkle Applications of Aromatic Extracts of Hedychium coronarium J. Koenig via Antioxidation and Collagenase Inhibition

This study aimed to extract aromatic compounds from the rhizomes, leaf sheaths, and leaves of Hedychium coronarium and investigate their chemical compositions, cosmetic/cosmeceutical activities, and irritation potency. The chemical compositions were investigated via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities were evaluated via spectrophotometry. The anti-skin wrinkle properties were investigated via collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition. The irritation potency was observed via a hen's egg-chorioallantoic membrane test. Eucalyptol was detected as a major component in the rhizomes and leaf sheaths, while β-caryophyllene was predominant in the leaves. The absolutes from the rhizomes were the strongest antioxidants, with ABTS scavenging properties similar to L-ascorbic acid. Interestingly, the equivalent concentration (EC1) of the absolute from the rhizome was 0.82 ± 0.01 µg FeSO4/g extract, which was significantly more potent than L-ascorbic acid (0.43 ± 0.03 µg FeSO4/g extract). The rhizome-derived absolute was the most effective against collagenase, while the concretes from the rhizomes and leaf sheaths showed promising anti-hyaluronidase activity with inhibitions of 90.5 ± 1.6% and 87.4 ± 5.1%, respectively. The irritability of the aromatic extracts was not different from that of the vehicle control, proving their safety. Therefore, the Hedychium coronarium rhizome-derived absolute was an attractive and potent antioxidant with anti-collagenase activities, indicating its potential for use in anti-aging formulations.

Quantification of skin penetration of caffeine and propylene glycol applied topically in a mixture by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares of depth-resolved Raman spectra

The quantitative determination of topically applied substances in the skin is severely limited and represents a challenging task. The porcine skin ex vivo was topically treated with a gel containing caffeine (CF) and propylene glycol (PG), and depth-resolved Raman spectra were recorded with two confocal Raman microscopes. We applied a novel tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares method to the selected spectral regions (512-604 and 778-1148 cm-1 ) of gel-treated skin and quantitatively determined the concentrations of CF and PG in the stratum corneum (SC). The highest concentration of CF (181 mg/cm3 ) was found at the surface, while PG (384 mg/cm3 ) was found at 10% SC depth, indicating the formation of a reservoir at the superficial SC. The concentrations of CF and PG decreased monotonically and reached the detection limit at ≈60% and ≈80% SC depth, respectively, indicating that neither permeate the SC.

Plants with cosmetic uses

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products

OBJECTIVE

Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations.

METHODS

Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined.

RESULTS

Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light.

CONCLUSION

Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

Impact of Social Media on Choosing Skin Care and Cosmetic Products Among Females in Saudi Arabia

BACKGROUND

Social media is a network that allows information to be shared globally with millions of users. It is becoming evident that social media plays quite a prominent role these days in skincare. Social media surely has come to benefit millions of its users around the globe, but the downside of social media is that it has the potential to put users at risk while they follow popular trends.

AIM

This study aims to assess the impact of social media on choosing skincare and cosmetic products in Saudi Arabia with the most used social media platforms.

METHODS

A questionnaire-based cross-sectional study was conducted targeting adult female residents across Saudi Arabia. Data were collected from the participants who met our criteria via electronic data collection Google forms did not show any nominative information that was distributed through social media platforms. The questionnaire covered participants' demographic data, social media use, source of information, and degree of trust with the influence of social media on using cosmetics. The eligible females were asked to fill out the study questionnaire received till no more new answers were obtained.

RESULTS

A total of 1,174 females fulfilling the inclusion criteria completed the study questionnaire. Participants' ages ranged from 18 to more than 40 years with a mean age of 22.5 %C2%B1 13.9 years old. Exact of 655 (55.8%) were single, and 463 (39.4%) were married. The most used social media platforms included Snapchat (39.4%), TikTok (26.7%), and Instagram (19.6%). A total of 881 (75%) of the study females reported they use social media for more than an hour a day. Exact 51% of the study females became familiar with skin care products from social media platforms. Also, 91.3% of the study female's confidence in information related to cosmetic and skin care products was affected by visual presentation.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, the study showed that most of the study participants used social media for many hours daily mainly Snapchat, TikTok, and Instagram. Also, social media was the main source of information regarding skin care products mainly dermatologists on social media.

Topical application of sh-oligopeptide-1 and clinical trials with cosmetic preparations: risk or fraud?

BACKGROUND

sh-oligopeptide-1 is a cosmetic that is considered to be the bioequivalent of the Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF).

OBJECTIVE

The systematic search and selection of the information available on sh-oligopeptide-1, and field research on laboratories manufacturing cosmetics and the legal regulation of their products.

METHODS

Specialised search in Medline and Google Scholar (March 2023). A total of 22 references were obtained and 12 articles were selected for analysis, 7 of which were included in Medline. 9 articles correspond to clinical trials that use sh-oligopeptide-1 as equivalent to a functional recombinant human EGF (hr-EGF). The manufacturers are investigated and they are requested to provide scientific information.

RESULTS

Using an inactive ingredient, clinical trials are published with favourable results in order to treat diabetics and cancer patients. These trials do not follow medical standards. Active EGF is not a cosmetic, rather it is a potent unauthorised drug. Likewise, sh-oligopeptide-1 is not a functional EGF, and it is not authorised for medical treatments. Topical hr-EGF is not authorised as a medication in any concentration, except for clinical trials. However, sh-EGF (sh-oligopeptide-1) is authorised as a cosmetic in several different concentrations for generalised use, with unknown long-term risks.

CONCLUSION

Clinical studies on sh-oligopeptide-1 have no scientific basis, as the preclinical bioactivity of this molecule has not been proven.

[Simultaneous determination of 83 glucocorticoids in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry]

Glucocorticoids, which are a class of steroidal hormones secreted by the adrenal cortex, have significant anti-inflammatory, immunosuppressive, and anti-allergic effects. Thus, these compounds are widely used in clinical practice. However, the long-term use of cosmetics containing glucocorticoids can lead to serious consequences, such as hormone-dependent dermatitis, hypertension, and other serious injuries. The Safety and Technical Specification for Cosmetics (2015 edition) and Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and Council on cosmetic products list glucocorticoids as prohibited raw materials. According to the National Medical Products Administration, reports on the illegal addition of glucocorticoids to cosmetics by manufacturers have increased in recent years. Therefore, establishing high-throughput screening methods to ensure the quality and safety of cosmetics is imperative. In this study, a comprehensive analytical method based on ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) was developed for the rapid screening of 83 glucocorticoids in cosmetics. A series of conditions were optimized using three matrices that are commonly used in cosmetics: water, lotion, and cream (o/w-type). Four mobile-phase systems and three chromatographic columns were then optimized to achieve the best separation effects. Various MS parameters, such as the capillary voltages, cone voltages, desolvation gas flow rates, and collision energies of the ion pairs of the target compounds, were also optimized. Furthermore, pretreatment was essential for glucocorticoid determination owing to the complex matrix effects of cosmetics. The analytes were divided into two groups, with lg Kow=4 as the limit, to compare the effects of the extraction solvent on recoveries. The extraction recoveries of target analytes with six extraction methods, namely, extraction with acetonitrile, extraction with acetone, extraction with ethyl acetate, dispersion in saturated sodium chloride solution followed by extraction with acetonitrile, dispersion in saturated sodium chloride solution followed by extraction with acetone, and dispersion in saturated sodium chloride solution followed by extraction with ethyl acetate, were compared. The recoveries from QuEChERS and solid-phase extraction (SPE) purification were also compared. Based on the experimental results, the final sample pretreatment method included acetonitrile vortex dispersion, ultrasonic extraction, and sample loading after filtration. The 83 target compounds were separated on a Thermo Accucore PFP column (100 mm×2.1 mm, 2.6 μm) with 0.1% (v/v) acetic acid in acetonitrile and 0.1% (v/v) acetic acid in water as the mobile phases. The analytes were determined by dynamic multiple-reaction monitoring (MRM) in electrospray positive ionization mode (ESI+) and quantified using the external standard method. Matrix standard curves were used to reduce matrix effects. The calibration curves of the 83 target compounds were linear in the mass concentration range of 2-200 μg/L (r>0.995). At three levels of addition, the recoveries were 74.5%-112.4%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs, n=6) were 0.8%-9.9%. The limits of detection (LODs, S/N≥3) were 0.001-0.023 μg/g, and the limits of quantification (LOQs, S/N≥10) were 0.002-0.076 μg/g. The developed method was used to detect glucocorticoids in 41 cosmetic samples. Fluocinolone acetonide, beclomethasone dipropionate, desonide 21-acetate, and desonide were detected in four samples. The content range of glucocorticoids in the positive samples was 0.53-634.27 μg/g. Notably, desonide 21-acetate, which is not included in the scope of the statutory detection method, was detected in two batches of samples. In conclusion, the proposed method is simple, sensitive, reliable, and suitable for the high-throughput analysis of the 83 glucocorticoids in cosmetics with different matrices. This method could provide reliable technical support for the daily supervision of cosmetics and serve as a supplement to current glucocorticoid standards.