Clinical Efficacy in Skin Hydration and Reducing Wrinkles of Nanoemulsions Containing Macadamia integrifolia Seed Oil

This study aimed to assess natural oils for their antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase properties and select the most effective candidate for development into nanoemulsions (NE) for clinical evaluations. The oils were assessed using 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS•+) and ferric thiocyanate assays for antioxidant properties and an enzyme-substrate reaction assay for anti-hyaluronidase activity. The most potent oil was formulated into conventional emulsions (CE) and NE, which were characterized and evaluated for their stability, both in accelerated and long-term conditions. The irritation potential was assessed using both the hen's eggs chorioallantoic membrane test and a clinical trial. Skin hydration enhancement and skin wrinkle reduction efficacy were clinically assessed. Macadamia integrifolia oil exhibited significant potency as an ABTS•+ radical scavenger, lipid peroxidation inhibitor, and hyaluronidase inhibitor (p < 0.05). Both the CE and NE, comprising 15% w/w oil, 5% w/w Tween® 80 and Span® 80, and 80% w/w DI water, were found to be optimal. NE with an internal droplet size of 112.4 ± 0.8 nm, polydispersity index of 0.17 ± 0.01, and zeta potential of -31.5 ± 1.0 mV, had good stability and induced no irritation. Both CE and NE enhanced skin hydration and reduced skin wrinkles in human volunteers, while NE was outstanding in skin hydration enhancement.

Antimicrobial Properties Related to Anti-Acne and Deodorant Efficacy of Hedychium coronarium J. Koenig Extracts from Pulsed Electric Field Extraction

This study investigated the potential of pulsed electric field (PEF) extraction in enhancing the antimicrobial properties related to anti-acne and deodorant properties of Hedychium coronarium extract. The dried leaf and rhizome of H. coronarium were extracted using 95% v/v ethanol through both conventional solvent extraction and PEF extraction techniques (10, 14, and 20 kV/cm). The chemical composition of the extracts was analyzed. The antimicrobial activities, specifically in relation to acne treatment against Cutibacterium acnes and deodorant properties against Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, Micrococcus luteus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Escherichia coli, were determined. The irritation profile of was evaluated using the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test. The results showed that PEF extraction increased the extract yield, particularly at an electric field strength of 20 kV/cm. Furthermore, PEF extraction significantly enhanced the ellagic acid content, particularly in the leaf extract. Furthermore, the leaf extract demonstrated stronger inhibitory effects against microorganisms associated with body odor and acne compared to the rhizome extract. Notably, all extracts exhibited no signs of irritation, indicating their safety. Overall, the findings suggest that PEF extraction from H. coronarium enhances yield, bioactive compound content, and antimicrobial effects. This indicates the potential of the extract for acne treatment and deodorant use.

The Fatty Acid Compositions, Irritation Properties, and Potential Applications of Teleogryllus mitratus Oil in Nanoemulsion Development

This study aimed to characterize and investigate the potential of the oils from Gryllus bimaculatus, Teleogryllus mitratus, and Acheta domesticus to be used in nanoemulsions. The oils were extracted by a cold press method and characterized for their fatty acid profiles. Their irritation effects on the chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) were evaluated, along with investigations of solubility and the required hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (RHLB). Various parameters impacting nanoemulsion generation using high-pressure homogenization were investigated. The findings revealed that G. bimaculatus yielded the highest oil content (24.58% w/w), followed by T. mitratus (20.96% w/w) and A. domesticus (15.46% w/w). Their major fatty acids were palmitic, oleic, and linoleic acids. All oils showed no irritation, suggesting safety for topical use. The RHLB values of each oil were around six-seven. However, they could be successfully developed into nanoemulsions using various surfactants. All cricket oils could be used for the nanoemulsion preparation, but T. mitratus yielded the smallest internal droplet size with acceptable PDI and zeta potential. Nanoemulsion was found to significantly enhance the antioxidant and anti-skin wrinkle of the T. mitratus oil. These findings pointed to the possible use of cricket oils in nanoemulsions, which could be used in various applications, including topical and cosmetic formulations.

Promising Anti-Wrinkle Applications of Aromatic Extracts of Hedychium coronarium J. Koenig via Antioxidation and Collagenase Inhibition

This study aimed to extract aromatic compounds from the rhizomes, leaf sheaths, and leaves of Hedychium coronarium and investigate their chemical compositions, cosmetic/cosmeceutical activities, and irritation potency. The chemical compositions were investigated via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities were evaluated via spectrophotometry. The anti-skin wrinkle properties were investigated via collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition. The irritation potency was observed via a hen's egg-chorioallantoic membrane test. Eucalyptol was detected as a major component in the rhizomes and leaf sheaths, while β-caryophyllene was predominant in the leaves. The absolutes from the rhizomes were the strongest antioxidants, with ABTS scavenging properties similar to L-ascorbic acid. Interestingly, the equivalent concentration (EC1) of the absolute from the rhizome was 0.82 ± 0.01 µg FeSO4/g extract, which was significantly more potent than L-ascorbic acid (0.43 ± 0.03 µg FeSO4/g extract). The rhizome-derived absolute was the most effective against collagenase, while the concretes from the rhizomes and leaf sheaths showed promising anti-hyaluronidase activity with inhibitions of 90.5 ± 1.6% and 87.4 ± 5.1%, respectively. The irritability of the aromatic extracts was not different from that of the vehicle control, proving their safety. Therefore, the Hedychium coronarium rhizome-derived absolute was an attractive and potent antioxidant with anti-collagenase activities, indicating its potential for use in anti-aging formulations.

Development of Film-Forming Gel Formulations Containing Royal Jelly and Honey Aromatic Water for Cosmetic Applications

This study aimed to develop a film-forming gel containing honey aromatic water (HW) and royal jelly (RJ) for cosmetic applications as a facial peel-off mask. HW, which is industrial waste from the water-reduction process of honey, was sterilized by autoclaving and filtration through a 0.22 µm membrane. The film-forming gels were developed using various types of film-forming polymers, including polyvinyl alcohol (PVA 117), carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), and hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC). The gel formulations were characterized in terms of their external appearance, viscosity, pH, and drying time, whereas the films generated were characterized by a texture analyzer, microscopic investigation, Fourier transform infrared, and an X-ray diffractometer. The findings highlighted that HW has short storage shelf life due to microbial contamination. Sterilizations were required before further product development. The film-forming gel was created by using the combination of PVA 117, CMC, and HEC. HW and RJ were successfully incorporated into the film-forming gel. However, HW resulted in a decrease in the gel viscosity and mechanical properties of its film. Interestingly, the drying time was dramatically decreased, which would be more desirable for its use as a peel-off mask. Furthermore, incorporation of royal jelly enhanced the viscosity of the gels as well as improved the mechanical properties of the film. No effect on the chemical and crystal structure of the films was detected after the incorporation. Therefore, the film-forming gels containing HW and RJ, possessing aesthetic attributes that extended to both the gels themselves and the resultant films, were suitable for use as a peel-off mask.

Influence of Benincasa hispida Peel Extracts on Antioxidant and Anti-Aging Activities, including Molecular Docking Simulation

Benincasa hispida peel, a type of postconsumer waste, is considered a source of beneficial phytochemicals. Therefore, it was subjected to investigation for biological activities in this study. B. hispida peel was extracted using 95% v/v, 50% v/v ethanol and water. The obtained extracts were B95, B50 and BW. B95 had a high flavonoid content (212.88 ± 4.73 mg QE/g extract) and phenolic content (131.52 ± 0.38 mg GAE/g extract) and possessed high antioxidant activities as confirmed by DPPH, ABTS and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Moreover, B95 showed inhibitory effects against collagenase and hyaluronidase with values of 41.68 ± 0.92% and 29.17 ± 0.66%, which related to anti-aging activities. Via the HPLC analysis, one of the potential compounds found in B95 was rutin. Molecular docking has provided an understanding of the molecular mechanisms underlying the interaction of extracts with collagenase and hyaluronidase. All extracts were not toxic to fibroblast cells and did not irritate the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane, which indicated its safe use. In conclusion, B. hispida peel extracts are promising potential candidates for further use as antioxidant and anti-aging agents in the food and cosmetic industries.

The in vitro effects of black soldier fly larvae (Hermitia illucens) oil as a high-functional active ingredient for inhibiting hyaluronidase, anti-oxidation benefits, whitening, and UVB protection

Objective: Larvae of Hermitia illucens, or black soldier fly larvae (BSFL), have been recognized for their high lipid yield with a remarkable fatty acid profile. BSFL oil (SFO) offers the added value of a low environmental footprint and a sustainable product. In this study, the characteristics and cosmetic-related activities of SFO were investigated and compared with rice bran oil, olive oil and krill oil which are commonly used in cosmetics and supplements. Methods: The physicochemical characteristics were determined including acid value, saponification value, unsaponifiable matter and water content of SFO. The fatty acid composition was determined using GC-MS equipped with TR-FAME. The in vitro antioxidant properties were determined using DPPH, FRAP and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Antihyaluronidase (anti-HAase) activity was measured by detecting enzyme activity and molecular docking of candidate compounds toward the HAase enzyme. The safety assessment towards normal human cells was determined using the MTT assay and the UVB protection upon UVB-irradiated fibroblasts was determined using the DCF-DA assay. The whitening effect of SFO was determined using melanin content inhibition. Results: SFO contains more than 60% polyunsaturated fatty acids followed by saturated fatty acids (up to 37%). The most abundant component found in SFO was linoleic acid (C18:2 n-6 cis). Multiple anti-oxidant mechanisms of SFO were discovered. In addition, SFO and krill oil prevented hyaluronic acid (HA) degradation via strong HAase inhibition comparable with the positive control, oleanolic acid. The molecular docking confirmed the binding interactions and molecular recognition of major free fatty acids toward HAase. Furthermore, SFO exhibited no cytotoxicity on primary human skin fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes and PBMCs (IC50 values > 200 μg/mL). SFO possessed significant in-situ anti-oxidant activity in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts and the melanin inhibition activity as effective as well-known anti-pigmenting compounds (kojic acid and arbutin, p < 0.05). Conclusion: This study provides scientific support for various aspects of SFO. SFO can be considered an alternative oil ingredient in cosmetic products with potential implications for anti-skin aging, whitening and UVB protection properties, making it a potential candidate oil in the cosmetic industry.

Enhancing Skin Delivery and Stability of Vanillic and Ferulic Acids in Aqueous Enzymatically Extracted Glutinous Rice Husk by Nanostructured Lipid Carriers

The present study aimed to develop nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and evaluate their effectiveness in enhancing the delivery and stability of vanillic and ferulic acid in the aqueous enzymatic extract of glutinous rice husk using a 0.5% w/w cellulase solution (CE0.5). NLCs were developed using a high-pressure homogenization technique and characterized for their particle size, polydispersity index, and zeta potential. The entrapment efficiency, physical and chemical stability, release profile, skin permeation, and skin retention of the NLCs loaded with CE0.5 were evaluated. It was observed that NLCs with high entrapment efficiencies efficiently encapsulate and protect both vanillic and ferulic acid, in contrast to a solution. The controlled and sustained release profile of vanillic acid and ferulic acid from NLCs suggests their potential for prolonged and targeted delivery. The findings also demonstrate the superior skin retention capabilities of NLCs without permeation compared to the solution. Notably, NLC2 exhibited the highest delivery into the skin layer, which can be attributed to its smaller particle size (107.3 ± 1.3 nm), enabling enhanced skin penetration. This research highlights the promising application of NLCs in enhancing the delivery and stability of bioactive compounds in cosmetic formulations and related fields.

Biological activities of extracts and compounds from Thai Kae-Lae (Maclura cochinchinensis (Lour.) Corner)

BACKGROUND AND AIMS

The purpose of this study was to investigate the biological properties of Kae-Lae (Maclura cochinchinensis (Lour.) Corner), a traditional medicinal plant used in Ayurvedic recipes in Thailand. To achieve this objective, heartwood samples were collected from 12 sources across Thailand. Fractional extracts (n-hexane, ethyl acetate, and ethanol) and the dominant compounds (morin, resveratrol, and quercetin) were examined for their abilities on cytotoxicity, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antileukaemic activity (Wilms' tumour 1 protein was used as a well-known biomarker for leukaemic cell proliferation).

METHODS

The study used MTT to assess cytotoxicity in leukaemic cells (K562, EoL-1, and KG-1a). Antioxidant activities were evaluated using ABTS, DPPH, and FRAP assays. The anti-inflammatory activity was investigated by detecting IL-2, TNF-α, and NO using appropriate detection kits. Wilms' tumour 1 protein expression was measured by Western blotting to determine the anti-leukaemic activity. The inhibition of cell migration was also analyzed to confirm anticancer progression.

RESULTS

Among the tested extract fraction, ethyl acetate No. 001 displayed strong cytotoxicity specifically in EoL-1 cells, while n-hexane No. 008 demonstrated this effect in three cell lines. Resveratrol, on the other hand, displayed cytotoxicity in all the tested cells. Additionally, the three major compounds, morin, resveratrol, and quercetin, exhibited significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In particular, resveratrol demonstrated a noteworthy decreased Wilms' tumour 1 protein expression and a reduction in cell proliferation across all cells. Moreover, ethyl acetate No. 001, morin, and resveratrol effectively inhibited MCF-7 cell migration. None of these compounds showed any impact on red blood cell haemolysis.

CONCLUSION

Based on these findings, it can be concluded that Kae-Lae has promising chemotherapeutic potential against leukaemic cells, with fractional extracts (ethyl acetate and n-hexane) and resveratrol exhibiting the most potent cytotoxic, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-cell migration activities.

Enhanced Cosmeceutical Potentials of the Oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer by Nanoemulsions

Purpose

This study aimed to extract the oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer, evaluate its potential for cosmeceutical applications, and develop nanoemulsions to promote the cosmeceutical capabilities of the oil.

Methods

G. bimaculatus oil was produced by the cold pressing method. Its fatty acid compositions were assessed by fatty acid methyl ester/gas chromatographic-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities of the oil were investigated in terms of radical scavengers, reducing power, and lipid peroxidation inhibition. The whitening effects were investigated through anti-tyrosinase activities, whilst the anti-aging effects were investigated through inhibition against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. The irritant effects were investigated by the hen's egg chorio-allantoic membrane test and the cytotoxicity assay in immortalized human epidermal keratinocytes and human foreskin fibroblast cells. The nanoemulsions were developed, characterized, and evaluated for their stability and cosmeceutical properties.

Results

G. bimaculatus oil, rich in linoleic acid (31.08 ± 0.00%), oleic acid (30.44 ± 0.01%), palmitic acid (24.80 ± 0.01%), and stearic acid (7.61 ± 0.00%), demonstrated promising cosmeceutical properties in terms of antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-skin ageing activities. Besides, the oil was safe since it induced no irritation or cytotoxicity. G. bimaculatus oil was successfully developed into nanoemulsions, and F1, composed of 1% w/w G. bimaculatus oil, 1.12% w/w polysorbate 80, 0.88% w/w sorbitan oleate, and 97% w/w DI water, had the smallest internal droplet size (53.8 ± 0.6 nm), the narrowest polydispersity index (0.129 ± 0.010), and a pronounced zeta potential (-28.23 ± 2.32 mV). All cosmeceutical activities of the oil were significantly enhanced after incorporation in the nanoemulsions (p < 0.001), particularly the whitening effects.

Conclusion

G. bimaculatus oil nanoemulsion was an attractive cosmeceutical formulation with potent whitening effects, along with antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Therefore, nanoemulsion technology was found to be an effective strategy for improving the cosmeceutical properties of G. bimaculatus oil.

Postbiotic Metabolite of Lactiplantibacillus plantarum PD18 against Periodontal Pathogens and Their Virulence Markers in Biofilm Formation

Alternative methods to reduce infectious diseases caused by bacterial pathogens and their virulence factors, biofilm formations, have arisen to reduce the pressure on existing or currently developed disinfectants and antimicrobial agents. The current strategies for reducing the severity of periodontal pathogen-caused disease by using beneficial bacteria and their metabolites are highly desirable. Probiotic strains of lactobacilli related to foods from Thai-fermented foods were selected and their postbiotic metabolites (PM) were isolated with inhibitory activity on periodontal pathogens and their biofilm formation. The PM from Lactiplantibacillus plantarum PD18 (PD18 PM) with the highest antagonistic effect against Streptococcus mutans, Porphyromonas gingivalis, Tannerella forsythia and Prevotella loescheii was selected from 139 Lactobacillus isolates. The minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimum biofilm inhibitory concentration (MBIC) values of PD18 PM against the pathogens ranged from 1:2 to 1:4. The PD18 PM demonstrated the ability to prevent the biofilm formation of S. mutans and P. gingivalis by showing a significant reduction in viable cells, high percentages of biofilm inhibition at 92.95 and 89.68%, and the highest effective contact times at 5 and 0.5 min, respectively. L. plantarum PD18 PM showed potential as a promising natural adjunctive agent to inhibit periodontal pathogens and their biofilms.

Ultrasound-assisted green extraction methods: An approach for cosmeceutical compounds isolation from Macadamia integrifolia pericarp

This study aimed was to examine the potential of several green extraction methods to extract cosmetic/cosmeceutical components from Macadamia integrifolia pericarps, which were a by-product of the macadamia nut industry. M. integrifolia pericarps were extracted by conventional solvent extraction process using 95% v/v ethanol and various green extraction methods, including infusion, ultrasound, micellar, microwave, and pulsed electric field extraction using water as a clean and green solvent. The extracts were evaluated for total phenolic content using Folin-Ciocalteu method.The antioxidant activities were evaluated by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS), ferric reducing/antioxidant power, and ferric-thiocyanate method. The anti-skin ageing activities were investigated by means of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition using enzyme-substrate reaction assay. The irritation profile of the extracts was evaluated by the hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) test. The results noted that ultrasound-assisted extraction yielded the significantly highest extract amount with the significantly highest total phenolic content (p < 0.05), especially when the extraction time was 10 min. The aqueous extract from ultrasound-assisted extraction possessed the most potent antioxidant and anti-skin ageing activities (p < 0.05). Its antioxidant activities were comparable to ascorbic acid and Trolox, whereas the anti-skin ageing activities were equivalent to epigallocatechin-3-gallate and oleanolic acid. Besides, the extract was safe since it induced no irritation in the HET-CAM test. Therefore, ultrasound-assisted extraction was suggested as an environmentally friendly extraction method for M. integrifolia pericarp extraction and further application in the cosmetic/cosmeceutical industries.

Comparison of chemical profiles, antioxidation, inhibition of skin extracellular matrix degradation, and anti-tyrosinase activity between mycelium and fruiting body of Cordyceps militaris and Isaria tenuipes

CONTEXT

Cordyceps militaris and Isaria tenuipes (Cordycipitaceae) are high-value fungi that are used for health-promoting food supplements. Since laboratory cultivation has begun for these fungi, increased output has been achieved.

OBJECTIVE

This study compared the chemical profiles, antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and skin extracellular matrix degradation inhibition between mycelium and fruiting body of C. militaris and I. tenuipes.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The antioxidative potential of 10% v/v aqueous infused extract from each fungus was separately investigated using 2,2-azinobis(3-ethylbenzo-thiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS), 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), ferric reducing antioxidant ability, and ferric thiocyanate methods. The inhibition against MMP-1, elastase, and hyaluronidase were determined to reveal their anti-wrinkle potential. Anti-tyrosinase activities were determined.

RESULTS

C. militaris and I. tenuipes extracts were found to contain a wide range of bioactive compounds, including phenolics, flavonoids, and adenosine. A correlation was discovered between the chemical compositions and their biological activities. The extract from I. tenuipes fruiting body (IF) was highlighted as an extraordinary elastase inhibitor (IC50 = 0.006 ± 0.004 mg/mL), hyaluronidase inhibitor (IC50: 30.3 ± 3.2 mg/mL), and antioxidant via radical scavenging (ABTS IC50: 0.22 ± 0.02 mg/mL; DPPH IC50: 0.05 ± 0.02 mg/mL), thereby reducing ability (EC1: 95.3 ± 4.8 mM FeSO4/g extract) and lipid peroxidation prevention (IC50: 0.40 ± 0.11 mg/mL). IF had a three-times higher EC1 value than ascorbic acid and significantly higher elastase inhibition than epigallocatechin gallate.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSIONS

IF is proposed as a powerful natural extract with antioxidant and anti-wrinkle properties; therefore, it is suggested for further use in pharmaceutical, cosmeceutical, and nutraceutical industries.

Enhanced Antioxidant, Hyaluronidase, and Collagenase Inhibitory Activities of Glutinous Rice Husk Extract by Aqueous Enzymatic Extraction

In this research, we aimed to compare the biological activities related to cosmeceutical applications of glutinous rice husk extracted by aqueous enzymatic extraction (AEE) and conventional solvent extraction. Cellulase enzymes were used to assist the extraction process. The vanillic and ferulic acid contents of each extract were investigated by high-performance liquid chromatography, and their antioxidant and anti-aging activities were investigated by spectrophotometric methods. The irritation effects of each extract were investigated by the hen’s egg test on chorioallantoic membrane. The rice husk extract from AEE using 0.5% w/w of cellulase (CE0.5) contained the significantly highest content of vanillic and ferulic acid (p < 0.05), which were responsible for its biological activities. CE0.5 was the most potent antioxidant via radical scavenging activities, and possessed the most potent anti-skin wrinkle effect via collagenase inhibition. Aside from the superior biological activities, the rice husk extracts from AEE were safer than those from solvent extraction, even when 95% v/v ethanol was used. Therefore, AEE is suggested as a green extraction method that can be used instead of the traditional solvent extraction technique given its higher yield and high quality of bioactive compounds. Additionally, CE0.5 is proposed as a potential source of natural antioxidants and anti-aging properties for further development of anti-wrinkle products.

Enhancement of Cholinesterase Inhibition of Alpinia galanga (L.) Willd. Essential Oil by Microemulsions

This study aimed to investigate the chemical composition and reveal the selective inhibitory activity of Alpinia galanga (L.) Willd. essential oil (AGO) on acetylcholinesterase (AChE) compared to butyrylcholinesterase (BChE). The chemical composition of AGO was investigated by means of gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. Ellman’s method was used to determine the inhibitory activities against AChE and BChE. Microemulsion systems with desirable anticholinesterase effects were developed. Methyl cinnamate and 1,8-cineole were reported as the major component of AGO. The IC₅₀ values of A. galanga oil against AChE and BChE were 24.6 ± 9.6 and 825.4 ± 340.1 µg/mL, respectively. The superior selectivity of AGO on AChE (34.8 ± 8.9) compared to galantamine hydrobromide (6.4 ± 1.5) suggested AGO to be an effective ingredient with fewer side effects for Alzheimer’s treatment. Interestingly, the microemulsion of AGO possessed significantly higher anticholinesterase activity than that of native oil alone. Therefore, microemulsion of AGO is a promising alternative approach for the treatment of Alzheimer’s disease.

Potential cosmeceutical lamellar liquid crystals containing black longan (Dimocarpus longan Lour.) seed extract for MMP-1 and hyaluronidase inhibition

The aims of this study were to evaluate the biological activities of black Dimocarpus longan Lour. seed extracts and develop a lamellar liquid crystal (LLC). Different solvents, including petroleum ether, ethyl acetate, and 95% v/v ethanol, were used in the maceration of black D. longan seeds. The inhibitory activities on matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and hyaluronidase were evaluated. The irritating potency of D. longan seed extracts was determined using the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test. The extract with the strongest anti-ageing activities and no irritant impact was examined for its chemical contents using high-performance liquid chromatography and incorporated into the LLC. Various factors affecting the LLC formulations, including surfactant types and amounts, thickening agent types and amounts, and various oil types, were investigated. The results demonstrated that the ethyl acetate extract (EtOAc) was the most potent inhibitor of MMP-1 (IC₅₀ = 21.7 ± 5.4 µg/mL) and hyaluronidase (oleanolic acid equivalent = 0.44 ± 0.03 g per g extract). Interestingly, its MMP-1 inhibition was equivalent to that of oleanolic acid, corilagin, and gallic acid. Furthermore, its hyaluronidase inhibition was equivalent to that of gallic acid and ellagic acid. Gallic acid, which was the most abundant compound (15.6% ± 0.06% w/w) was suggested as the compound responsible for the biological activities of EtOAc extract. Considering its potential anti-skin ageing properties with no irritation of EtOAc extract, it was incorporated into the most suitable LLC, which was composed of 5% w/w Lexfeel® D5 oil, 0.5% w/w Carbopol® U21, 2% w/w Liquid Crystal Cream Maker, and 92.5% w/w DI water. The LLC containing EtOAc extract presented birefringence under a polarizing light microscope, indicating its crystallinity. The formulation had good stability after heating-cooling cycles in terms of external appearance, crystallinity, viscosity, and pH (5.5). As a result, it is recommended as a potential cosmeceutical formulation for anti-skin wrinkling. It is proposed that more research be conducted on the safety and efficacy of the treatment on human volunteers.

Anti-inflammatory and Antimicrobial Activities of Fermented Ocimum sanctum Linn. Extracts Against Skin and Scalp Microorganisms

This study aimed to revealed anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities of fermented Ocimum sanctum Linn. (FE). The fermentation process with Lactobacillus plantarum was compared with the solvent extraction methods. Antimicrobial activity against the growth of Staphylococcus aureus , Staphylococcus epidermidis , Propionibacterium acnes , Candida albicans , and Malassezia furfur was investigated via broth dilution method. High performance thin layer chromatography was used to determine eugenol content. The anti-inflammation was investigated by means of nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) expression inhibition by Western blot analysis. FE yielded the highest amount (11.93% w/w), the highest eugenol content (39.3 ± 12.6% w/w), and the highest antimicrobial activities comparing to the extracts obtained from the solvent extractions. The fungal inhibition against M . furfur 656 was equivalent to that of ketoconazole. Furthermore, the bacterial inhibition on S. aureus and S. epidermidis was compared to that of Penicillin G at minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 0.125 mg/mL and 0.25 mg/mL, respectively. Interestingly, FE had lower MIC and minimum bactericidal concentration against P. acnes than Penicillin G and also possessed comparable anti-inflammatory activity to indomethacin with the NF-κB suppression of 42.7 ± 4.6%. Therefore, FE are potentially natural anti-inflammation and antimicrobial agents for topical applications in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

Skin irritation and potential antioxidant, anti-collagenase, and anti-elastase activities of edible insect extracts

This study aimed to investigate antioxidant, anti-aging, and irritation properties of Thai edible insect extracts, including Bombyx mori, Omphisa fuscidentalis, Euconocephalus sp., Patanga succincta, Acheta domesticus, and Lethocerus indicus. Insects were extracted by 2 different methods, including maceration using ethanol or hexane and digestion using DI water. Then the extracts were determined for protein content using bicinchoninic acid assay and antioxidant activities using 2,2′-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid), 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl, ferric reducing antioxidant power, and ferric thiocyanate assays. Anti-aging activities were investigated by determination of collagenase and elastase inhibitory activities using spectrophotometric assay. Maceration by hexane yielded the highest extract content, whereas aqueous extract from digestion possessed the significantly highest protein content and biological activities (p < 0.05). Interestingly, aqueous extracts of A. domesticus possessed the significantly highest biological activities (p < 0.05) with Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity value of 8.8 ± 0.1 mmol Trolox/mg, DPPH^· inhibition of 19.5 ± 3.8%, equivalent concentration of 12.1 ± 0.7 µM FeSO₄/mg, lipid peroxidation inhibition of 31.3 ± 2.4%, collagenase inhibition of 60.8 ± 2.1%, elastase inhibition of 17.0 ± 0.1%, and no irritation effect on chorioallantoic membrane and volunteers. Therefore, aqueous extract of A. domesticus would be suggested for further topical product development.

Effects of Carissa carandas Linn. Fruit, Pulp, Leaf, and Seed on Oxidation, Inflammation, Tyrosinase, Matrix Metalloproteinase, Elastase, and Hyaluronidase Inhibition

In this study, the potential of Carissa carandas Linn. as a natural anti-aging, antioxidant, and skin whitening agent was studied. Various parts of C. carandas, including fruit, leaf, seed, and pulp were sequentially extracted by maceration using n-hexane, ethyl acetate, and ethanol, respectively. High-performance liquid chromatography, Folin–Ciocalteu, and Dowd method were used to investigate their chemical compositions. The inhibitory activities of oxidation process, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase were analyzed. Cytotoxicity was determined by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5 diphenyl tetrazolium bromide assay in a human epidermal keratinocyte line (HaCaT). The results exhibited that ethyl acetate could extract the most ursolic acid from C. carandas, while ethanol could extract the most phenolics and flavonoids. The leaf extract had the highest content of ursolic acid, phenolics, and flavonoids. The leaf extracted with ethyl acetate (AL) had the highest ursolic acid content (411.8 mg/g extract) and inhibited MMP-1, NF-kappa B, and tyrosinase activity the most. Ursolic acid has been proposed as a key component in these biological activities. Although several C. carandas extracts are beneficial to human skin, AL has been proposed for use in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals due to its superior anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammation, and whitening properties.

Enhancement of phenolics content and biological activities of longan (Dimocarpus longan Lour.) treated with thermal and ageing process

This study is the first to compare the chemical compositions and biological activities of a conventional dried Dimocarpus longan with a novel black D. longan that underwent a thermal ageing process. Pericarp, aril, and seed of both D. longan were macerated in 95% v/v ethanol. Their chemical compositions were investigated using a Folin-Ciocalteu assay, aluminum chloride assay, and high-performance liquid chromatography. Antioxidant activities were evaluated in terms of radical scavenging and iron (III) reduction capacity. An enzyme inhibition assay was used to evaluate the hyaluronidase inhibition. Inflammatory cytokine secretion was evaluated with an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. After being exposed to a heating and ageing procedure, gallic acid and ellagic acid content were increased tenfold, while the corilagin content was doubled. Black D. longan seed extract was the most potent anti-hyaluronidase and antioxidant with the strongest free radical scavenging and reduction power, while black D. longan aril extract resulted in the highest inhibition of inflammatory cytokine secretion. Black D. longan contained more biologically active compounds and possessed more potent biological activities than conventional dried D. longan. Therefore, thermal ageing treatment is suggested for producing black D. longan, for which seed extract is suggested as a cosmeceutical active ingredient and aril extract for anti-inflammation.

Herbal Extracts as Potential Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, Anti-Inflammatory, and Whitening Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The aim of this research was to investigate and compare the antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities of 16 herbal extracts for topical application in cosmetic/cosmeceutical products. Herbal plant materials were extracted by infusion in boiled water for 15 min. The total phenolic content and total flavonoid content of each extract were investigated by the Folin-Ciocalteu and aluminum chloride methods, respectively. Antioxidant activities were investigated using 2,2'-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and a ferric reducing antioxidant power assay. Anti-tyrosinase and anti-aging activities were investigated using an in vitro enzymatic-spectrophotometric method. Anti-inflammatory activities were investigated using an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. The findings show that the Stevia rebaudiana extract has the most significant levels of both phenols and flavonoids (p<0.05). The S. rebaudiana, Rosa damascene, and Phyllanthus emblica extracts possessed the most significant antioxidant activities (p<0.05) and a promising whitening effect with moderate anti-tyrosinase activities. Furthermore, the Echinacea purpurea extract possessed the most significant anti-collagenase (78.5±0.0 %), anti-elastase (69.0±1.4 %), and anti-hyaluronidase activity (64.2±0.3 %). The Morus alba extract possessed the most significant anti-inflammatory activity since it could inhibit the secretion of interleukin-6 and tumor necrosis factor-α (p<0.05). Therefore, these herbal extracts have promising skin benefits and have potential for use as active ingredients in cosmetic/cosmeceutical products.

Effect of Pretreatment Processes on Biogenic Amines Content and Some Bioactive Compounds in Hericium erinaceus Extract

Hericium erinaceus is reported as a source of several nutritional contents and bioactive compounds, especially β-glucan. However, various uncontrolled processes lead to the formation of byproducts that can affect human health, including biogenic amines. These amines are concerning, because their presence is an important indicator of the process of hygiene and food spoilage or quality. A better understanding of various pretreatment processes can control the content of biogenic amines. In this work, we studied the effect of pretreatment processes, i.e., sample size (whole, ripping, and chopping); heating process (non-heating, blanching, and boiling); and drying method (nondrying, hot air drying, and freeze-drying) on biogenic amine contents in H. erinaceus extract. A method of the post-column high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) technique was used for the analysis of putrescine (PUT) and spermidine (SPD) in H. erinaceus extract following the acceptable guidelines. In this study, treatment 20 (chopping/non-heating/hot air drying) was suggested as a good choice for the pretreatment process, because low levels of PUT and SPD were shown in the extract while high levels of the bioactive compounds β-glucan and antioxidant activity were presented. This treatment process can be applied to the industry because of its easy operation and cost-saving.

Nutricosmetic effects of Asparagus officinalis: a potent matrix metalloproteinase-1 inhibitor

This study aimed to investigate the nutricosmetic effect of Asparagus officinalis extracts. The tip and spear of A. officinalis were successively extracted with 95% ethanol. The rutin, phenolic, and flavonoid contents of A. officinalis extracts were investigated. The antioxidant activities were determined by 2,2-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) and a ferric reducing antioxidant power assay. Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition were determined by in vitro enzyme reaction assay. The cytotoxicity was analyzed on peripheral blood mononuclear cellss. Findings revealed that drying temperature and drying duration had significant effects on the chemical composition and biological activity of A. officinalis extract. A. officinalis tips dried at 50 °C for 24 h contained the (significantly) highest flavonoid and rutin content. The most potent extract was from A. officinalis spears since it possessed the (significantly) highest MMP-1, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition rates of 83.4 ± 1.5%, 70.4 ± 4.1%, and 75.2 ± 1.0%, respectively. Interestingly, at the same concentration, the A. officinalis spear extract was more potent in MMP-1 inhibition than oleanolic acid and epigallocatechin gallate, the well-known natural MMP-1 inhibitors. The results show that A. officinalis extract is an attractive source of natural anti-skin-wrinkle ingredients.

Physicochemical and prebiotic properties of resistant starch from Musa sapientum Linn., ABB group, cv. Kluai Namwa Luang

Resistant starch (RS), a current health trend, can be obtained from various natural sources. Musa sapientum Linn., ABB group, cv. Kluai Namwa Luang is a good source of RS. This is the first study to investigate the physicochemical properties, RS contents, and prebiotic properties of unpeeled raw banana powder (URB), peeled raw banana powder (PRB), and banana starch (BS) from Kluai Namwa Luang. Their physicochemical properties were characterized by scanning electron microscope, differential scanning calorimeter, and X-ray diffractometer. The RS contents were determined using the Megazyme Resistant Starch Assay Kit. The prebiotic properties are reported as a prebiotic index (PI). The particle morphology of URB, PRB, and BS granules showed a smooth surface with irregular size and shape. Their gelatinization temperatures were 74-78 °C. All samples exhibited typical B-type diffraction patterns. URB contained the highest dietary fiber (9.7 ± 0.2 g per 100 g of dried sample), whereas BS contained the highest RS content (74.1 ± 0.1 g per 100 g of dried sample). Both URB and BS possessed excellent probiotic growth promotion, prebiotic properties with PI values comparable to the commercial inulin, and were highly resistant to digestive enzymes. Therefore, BS from Kluai Namwa Luang is suggested as functional nutrient in health promotion products.

Potential of Musa sapientum Linn. for digestive function promotion by supporting Lactobacillus sp

Lactobacillus is a beneficial bacteria that could inhibit pathogenic potential of other microorganisms. This is the first study to develop a potential tablet from Musa sapientum Linn. (locally known as Kluai Namwa) using the direct compression method to support Lactobacillus sp. We compared the amount of resistant starch and prebiotic properties of the dry powder from unpeeled raw fruit, peeled raw fruit, and starch from M. sapientum. These dry powders were formulated into tablets using the direct compression method and evaluated for their prebiotic index compared to their native powder. Resistant starch, which possessed the highest prebiotic index, generated a tablet that possessed remarkable in vitro prebiotic properties. All tablets met the requirement of the United States Pharmacopeia. Therefore, resistant starch tablets from M. sapientum are suggested for use as a health promotion product.

Enhancement of Chemical Stability and Dermal Delivery of Cordyceps militaris Extracts by Nanoemulsion

This study aimed to develop nanoemulsions for enhancing chemical stability and dermal delivery of Cordyceps militaris extracts. C. militaris was extracted by maceration and infusion. The extracts were investigated for cordycepin, phenolic, and flavonoid content. The antioxidant activity was investigated by in vitro spectrophotometric methods. The irritation profile was investigated by hen's egg-chorioallantoic membrane test. Nanoemulsions were developed using high-pressure homogenizer. C. militaris extract was incorporated into the nanoemulsion and investigated for safety, release profile, permeation, and skin retention. The results demonstrated that water extract (CW) contained the significantly highest content of cordycepin, phenolics, and flavonoids, which were responsible for antioxidant activity. CW was the most potent antioxidant. CW possessed comparable 2,2'-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging activity and lipid peroxidation inhibition to l-ascorbic acid (96.9 ± 3.1%) and alpha-tocopherol (87.2 ± 1.0%). Consequently, ten mg/mL of CW was incorporated into nanoemulsions composing of sugar squalene, Tween® 85, and deionized water. Nanoemulsion, which had the smallest internal droplet size (157.1 ± 2.6 nm), enhanced the stability of CW, had no cytotoxicity effect and no skin irritation, released the most CW (0.9 ± 0.0% w/w after 24 h), and delivered the highest CW into the skin layer (33.5 ± 0.7% w/w). Therefore, nanoemulsion was suggested for enhancing the stability and dermal delivery of CW.

Isolation and biological activity of agrostophillinol from kaffir lime (Citrus hystrix) leaves

The leaves of the kaffir lime (Citrus hystrix) are commonly used in cuisine and folk medicine. The aim of this study was to isolate a bioactive compound in kaffir lime leaves and characterize its biological activity. The compound was isolated from a hexane fractional extract and identified as agrostophillinol. This is the first report of agrostophillinol isolated from kaffir lime leaves. In terms of cytotoxicity, agrostophillinol exhibited IC₅₀ values of 36.27 ± 7.30 and 53.44 ± 10.63 μg/mL against EoL-1 and HL60 cells, respectively. Agrostophillinol also exhibited potent anti-inflammatory activity, significantly inhibiting IL-6 secretion.

Chemical Constituents, Antioxidant, Anti-MMPs, and Anti-Hyaluronidase Activities of Thunbergia laurifolia Lindl. Leaf Extracts for Skin Aging and Skin Damage Prevention

This study aimed to investigate the potential usage of Thunbergia laurifolia Lindl. leaf extracts in the cosmetic industry. Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and hyaluronidase inhibition of T. laurifolia leaf extracts, prepared using reflux extraction with deionized water (RE) and 80% v/v ethanol using Soxhlet's apparatus (SE), were determined. Rosmarinic acid, phenolics, and flavonoids contents were determined using high-performance liquid chromatography, Folin-Ciocalteu, and aluminum chloride colorimetric assays, respectively. Antioxidant activities were determined by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and linoleic acid-thiocyanate assays. MMP-1 inhibition was investigated using enzymatic and fluorescent reactions, whereas MMP-2, MMP-9, and hyaluronidase inhibition were investigated using gel electrophoresis. Cytotoxicity on human fibroblast cell line was also investigated. The results demonstrated that SE contained significantly higher content of rosmarinic acid (5.62% ± 0.01%) and flavonoids (417 ± 25 mg of quercetin/g of extract) but RE contained a significantly higher phenolics content (181 ± 1 mg of gallic acid/g of extract; p < 0.001). SE possessed higher lipid peroxidation inhibition but less DPPH• scavenging activity than RE. Both extracts possessed comparable hyaluronidase inhibition. SE was as potent an MMP-1 inhibitor as gallic acid (half maximal inhibitory concentration values were 12.0 ± 0.3 and 8.9 ± 0.4 mg/cm3, respectively). SE showed significantly higher MMP-2 and MMP-9 inhibition than RE (p < 0.05). Therefore, SE is a promising natural anti-ageing ingredient rich in rosmarinic acid and flavonoids with antioxidant, anti-hyaluronidase, and potent MMPs inhibitory effects that could be applied in the cosmetic industry.

Dermal Delivery Enhancement of Natural Anti-Ageing Compounds from Ocimum sanctum Linn. Extract by Nanostructured Lipid Carriers

This study aimed to develop nanodelivery systems for enhancing the Ocimum sanctum Linn. extract delivery into the skin. Rosmarinic acid (RA) was used as a marker for the quantitative determination of the extract by high-performance liquid chromatography. Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC), nanoemulsion, liposome, and niosome, were developed and characterized for internal droplet size, polydispersity index (PDI), and zeta potential using photon correlation spectroscopy. Irritation properties of each formulations were investigated by hen's egg test on the chorioallantoic membrane. In vitro release, skin permeation, and skin retention are determined. NLC was suggested as the most suitable system since it enhances the dermal delivery of RA with the significant skin retention amount of 27.1 ± 1.8% (p < 0.05). Its internal droplet size, PDI, and zeta potential were 261.0 ± 5.3 nm, 0.216 ± 0.042, and -45.4 ± 2.4 mV, respectively. RA released from NLC with a sustained release pattern with the release amount of 1.29 ± 0.15% after 24 h. NLC induced no irritation and did not permeate through the skin. Therefore, NLC containing O. sanctum extract was an attractive dermal delivery system that was safe and enhanced dermal delivery of RA. It was suggested for further used as topical anti-ageing products.

In-vitro investigation of anti-acne properties of Mangifera indica L. kernel extract and its mechanism of action against Propionibacterium acnes

Propionibacterium acnes has been recognized as a main target for medical treatment of acne since this bacterium promotes acne inflammation by inducing upregulation of pro-inflammatory cytokines production, resulting in an accumulation of neutrophils and oxygen-free radicals produced by neutrophils within acne lesion. The aims of this study were to evaluate the biological activities of Mangifera indica kernel extracts grown in Northern Thailand (Kaew-Moragot cultivar), related to anti-acne properties including antimicrobial effect against acne-inducing bacteria together with the first elucidation of the mechanism of action against Propionibacterium acnes, anti-oxidation, and anti-inflammation. The kernels of M. indica, obtained from raw and ripe fruits, were macerated using various solvents. Agar diffusion and broth microdilution methods were performed to investigate the antibacterial activities of the extracts against P. acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The ethanolic fractions exhibited the strongest antimicrobial effect against P. acnes with minimum inhibitory concentration and minimum bactericidal concentration of 1.56 mg/mL and 12.50 mg/mL, respectively. Bactericidal effect against P. acnes of these extracts could be observed after 3 h of incubation from time-kill curve. The chromatograms of high-performance liquid chromatography showed that the extracts existed gallic acid with high total phenolic content. These extracts additionally showed strong free radical scavenging properties on 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2-azino-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) as well as a notable inhibitory effect on linoleic acid peroxidation, which highly correlated to their antimicrobial effect, total phenolic, and gallic acid contents. The images, studied through using transmission electron microscopy, revealed that the extract certainly disrupted P. acnes cell membrane after exposure for 1 h as well as induced the consequent leakage of cytoplasmic materials. The inhibitory effects of the extracts on IL-8 secretion from LPS-inducing RAW 264.7 cells were also presented. In conclusion, the kernel extracts of raw M. indica fruit were effective against aerobic and anaerobic acne-inducing bacteria particularly P. acnes and exerted antioxidant along with anti-inflammatory activities. Therefore, the extracts might be potential agents for inflammatory acne treatment. However, clinical study is needed for further investigation.

Antioxidant activity and irritation property of venoms from Apis species

Pharmacological effects of bee venom has been reported, however, it has been restricted to the bee venom collected from European honey bee (Apis mellifera). The aim of the present study was to compare the antioxidant activities and irritation properties of venoms collected from four different Apis species in Thailand, which includes Apis cerena (Asian cavity nesting honeybee), Apis florea (dwarf honeybee), Apis dorsata (giant honeybee), and A. mellifera. Melittin content of each bee venom extracts was investigated by using high-performance liquid chromatography. Ferric reducing antioxidant power, 2, 2'-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid), and 1, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay were used to determine the antioxidant activity, whereas, hen's egg test chorioallantoic membrane assay was used to determine the irritation property of each bee venom extracts. Melittin was the major constituent in all bee venom extracts. The melittin content in A. dorsata, A. mellifera, A. florea, and A. cerena were 95.8 ± 3.2%, 76.5 ± 1.9%, 66.3 ± 8.6%, and 56.8 ± 1.8%, respectively. Bee venom extract from A. dorsata possessed the highest antioxidant activity with the inhibition of 41.1 ± 2.2% against DPPH, Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity of 10.21 ± 0.74 mM Trolox/mg and equivalent concentration (EC₁) of 0.35 ± 0.02 mM FeSO₄/mg. Bee venom extract from A. mellifera exhibited the highest irritation, followed by A. cerena, A. dorsata, and A. florea, respectively. Melittin was the compound responsible for the irritation property of bee venom extracts since it could induce severe irritation (irritation score was 13.7 ± 0.5, at the concentration of 2 mg/ml). The extract from A. dorsata which possessed the highest antioxidant activity showed no irritation up to the concentration of 0.1 mg/ml. Therefore, bee venom extract from A. dorsata at the concentration not more than 0.1 mg/ml would be suggested for using as cosmetic ingredients since it possessed the highest antioxidant activity with no irritation. This study is the first report to compare the bee venom extracts from different Apis species and display their potential application of bee venom extracts in cosmetic products.

Inhibition of 5α-Reductase, IL-6 Secretion, and Oxidation Process of Equisetum debile Roxb. ex Vaucher Extract as Functional Food and Nutraceuticals Ingredients

This study aims to investigate the biological activities related to hair loss of Equisetum debile extracts, including 5α-reductase inhibition, interleukin-6 (IL-6) secretion reduction, and anti-oxidation. E. debile extracts were obtained by maceration in various solvents. Crude extract (CE) was obtained by maceration in 95% ethanol. Chlorophyll-free extract (CF) was the CE which of the chlorophyll has been removed by electrocoagulation. Hexane extract (HE), ethyl acetate extract (EA), and ethanolic extract (ET) were fraction extracts obtained from maceration in hexane, ethyl acetate, and 95% ethanol, respectively. The extracts were investigated for inhibitory activity against 5α-reductase and IL-6 secretion. Total phenolic contents (TPC) were investigated and antioxidant activities were determined by means of 2,2′-azino-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS), 2,2′-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assays. The inhibition of lipid peroxidation was determined by the ferric thiocyanate method. The cytotoxicity of the extracts on dermal papilla cells and irritation test by hen's egg test chorioallantoic membrane assay were also investigated. All extracts could inhibit 5α-reductase and decrease IL-6 secretion in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated macrophage. The antioxidant activity of E. debile extracts was directly related to their TPC. ET which contained the highest TPC (68.8 ± 6.7 mg GA/g) showed the highest equivalent concentration (EC₁) of 289.1 ± 26.4 mM FeSO₄/g, TEAC of 156.6 ± 34.6 mM Trolox/g, and 20.0 ± 6.0% DPPH inhibition. However, EA exhibited the highest inhibition against lipid peroxidation (57.2 ± 0.4%). In addition, EA showed no cytotoxicity on dermal papilla cell line and no irritation on chorioallantoic membrane of hen’s eggs. In conclusion, EA was suggested as the most attractive ingredients for functional food and nutraceuticals because of the high inhibitory activity against 5α-reductase, IL-6 secretion, and lipid peroxidation inhibition.

Development of Microemulsion Delivery System of Essential Oil from Zingiber cassumunar Roxb. Rhizome for Improvement of Stability and Anti-Inflammatory Activity

The present study aims to investigate the major constituents of the essential oil from Zingiber cassumunar rhizome (EO) and to develop microemulsions with enhanced chemical stability and anti-inflammatory activity of EO. The major constituents of EO were terpinen-4-ol (40.5 ± 6.6%) and sabinene (17.4 ± 1.4%) as determined by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. These compounds were responsible for the anti-inflammatory activities of EO. Sabinene and terpinen-4-ol significantly reduced nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-kB) expression by 47 ± 5 and 78 ± 8%, respectively (p < 0.001) and significantly reduced the interleukin-6 (IL-6) secretion levels to 64 ± 4% (p < 0.05) and 50 ± 1% (p < 0.001), respectively. EO microemulsions, developed using the system of EO/Tween 20 and propylene glycol (2:1)/water, showed the internal droplet size in the range of 211.5 ± 63.3 to 366.7 ± 77.8 nm. Both EO and EO microemulsions were shown to be safe for human use since there was no apparent toxic effect on human peripheral blood mononuclear cells. Interestingly, EO microemulsion could significantly protect sabinene from the evaporation after heating-cooling stability test, which leads to a good stability and high efficacy. Moreover, EO microemulsions significantly enhanced the anti-inflammatory effect comparing to the native EO. Therefore, microemulsions were attractive delivery system for natural anti-inflammatory compounds since they could enhance both efficacy and stability of EO.

Stability and solubility improvement of Sompoi (Acacia concinna Linn.) pod extract by topical microemulsion

The aim of this study was to enhance the solubility and stability of Acacia concinna extract by loading in a microemulsion for topical application. Both physical appearance and biological activities of the extract-loaded microemulsion were determined in comparison with the extract solution. Pseudoternary phase diagrams of three oil types including tea seed oil, grape seed oil, and sesame oil, together with polysorbate 85 or the mixture of polysorbate 85 and sorbitan oleate as surfactants, and absolute ethanol as a co-surfactant were constructed to optimize the microemulsion area. The selected microemulsion was then characterized for droplet size, polydispersity index, and viscosity. Tea seed oil exhibited the highest microemulsion area in the phase diagram because it had the highest unsaturated fatty acid content. The microemulsion composed of tea seed oil (5%), polysorbate 85 (40%), ethanol (20%), and water (35%) exhibited Newtonian flow behavior with the droplet size and polydispersity index of 68.03 ± 1.09 nm and 0.44 ± 0.04, respectively. After 4% w/w of the extract was incorporated into the microemulsion, larger droplets size was observed (239.77 ± 12.69 nm) with a lower polydispersity index (0.37 ± 0.02). After storage in various conditions, both physical appearances and the stability of biological activity of the extract-loaded microemulsion were improved compared to the solution. Therefore, the A. concinna loaded microemulsion may be a promising carrier for further development into a topical formulation and clinical trials for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical applications are also suggested.

3'-R/S-hydroxyvoacamine, a potent acetylcholinesterase inhibitor from Tabernaemontana divaricata

Guided by the acetylcholinesterase inhibiting activity, the bisindole alkaloid 3'-R/S-hydroxyvoacamine was isolated from a stem extract of Tabernaemontana divaricata, a plant used in Thailand in traditional rejuvenation remedies for improving the memory. The structure of the alkaloid was elucidated by extensive use of NMR spectroscopy and the complete assignment of the (1)H and (13)C NMR spectra is reported. The alkaloid acted as a non-competitive inhibitor against AChE with an IC50 value of 7.00±1.99 μM. An HPLC method was developed for the quantitative analysis of the AChE inhibitor. It suggested that there was 12.4% (w/w) of 3'-R/S-hydroxyvoacamine in the alkaloid enriched fraction of T. divaricata stem.

Antityrosinase and antioxidant activities of essential oils of edible Thai plants

This work was undertaken to explore antityrosinase and antioxidant activities of twenty essential oils of edible Thai plants. Antityrosinase activity against mushroom tyrosinase was examined by means of the dopachrome method using L-dopa as an enzymatic substrate. The essential oil of Cymbopogon citratus had the highest level of antityrosinase activity, followed by that of Ocimum canum with enzymatic inhibition of 69 ± 4 and 66 ± 3%. GC-MS revealed that geranial and neral were the two most abundant components of their chemical compositions. Antioxidant activity was gauged by the free radical scavenging activity test and ferric reducing/antioxidant power assay. The essential oil of Ocimum sanctum had the highest level of antioxidant activity, followed by the essential oil of Ocimum gratissimum. These results led to the conclusions that the essential oils of edible Thai plants exhibit important biological activities and are a promising choice as natural active ingredients because of their antityrosinase and antioxidant activities.

Enhancement of anti-cholinesterase activity of Zingiber cassumunar essential oil using a microemulsion technique

The aim of the present study was to enhance the cholinesterase inhibitory activity of Zingiber cassumunar (ZC) oil using a microemulsion (ME) technique. Pseudoternary phase diagrams of the oil, water, and surfactant/co-surfactant mixture were constructed using a water titration method. Effects of co-surfactant, surfactant/co-surfactant ratio, ionic strength, and pH were examined by means of the microemulsion region which existed in the phase diagrams. The inhibition of acetylcholinesterase (AChE) and butyrylcholinesterase (BChE) were tested by Ellman's colorimetric assay. It was found that ZC oil possesses inhibitory activity against not only AChE but also BChE. Formulation of ZC oil as ME revealed that alkyl chain length and number of hydroxyl groups of co-surfactant exhibited a remarkable effect on the pseudoternary phase diagram. Longer alkyl chains and more hydroxyl groups gave smaller regions of MEs. Ionic strength also affected the ME region. However, the phase behavior was hardly influenced by pH. The suitable ZC oil ME was composed of Triton X-114 in combination with propylene glycol. The anti-cholinesterase activity of this ME was much higher than that of native ZC oil. It exhibited twenty times and twenty five times higher inhibitory activity against AChE and BChE, respectively. ZC oil loaded ME is an attractive formulation for further characterization and an in vivo study in an animal model with Alzheimer's disease.

Inhibition of cholinesterase by essential oil from food plant

Inhibition of cholinesterase has attracted much attention recently because of its potential for the treatment of Alzheimer's disease. In this work, the anticholinesterase activities of plant oils were investigated using Ellman's colorimetric method. The results indicate that essential oils obtained from Melissa officinalis leaf and Citrus aurantifolia leaf showed high acetylcholinesterase and butyrylcholinesterase co-inhibitory activities. C. aurantifolia leaf oil revealed in this study has an IC(50) value on acetylcholinesterase and butyrylcholinesterase of 139 ± 35 and 42 ± 5 μg/ml, respectively. GC/MS analysis revealed that the major constituents of C. aurantifolia leaf oil are monoterpenoids including limonene, l-camphor, citronellol, o-cymene and 1,8-cineole.

Characterization of potent anticholinesterase plant oil based microemulsion

In the present study, essential oils of three edible Thai plants, Cymbopogon citratus (Gramineae), Citrus hystrix (Rutaceae) and Zingiber cassumunar (Zingiberaceae) were comparatively tested for acetylcholinesterase (AChE) and butyrylcholinesterase (BChE) inhibitory activities using Ellman's colorimetric method. C. citratus oil exhibited the highest activity with IC(50) values of 0.34±0.07μl/ml and 2.14±0.18μl/ml against BChE and AChE activity, respectively. It was further investigated whether microemulsions of this oil could be obtained. The effects of type of surfactant and co-surfactant as well as pH and ionic strength on the phase behavior of the oil/water system were investigated. Brij 97, Triton X-114, Tween 20 and Tween 85 were employed as surfactant whereas ethanol and hexanol were used as cosurfactants. The size analysis, electrical conductivity measurements and cholinesterase inhibition assays were done in selected microemulsion. The results revealed that the type and concentration of surfactant and co-surfactant exhibited a distinct influence on the C. citratus oil microemulsions. Moreover, the inhibitory activities of the microemulsion formulation were remarkable.