Thermodynamics of water interaction with human stratum corneum I: measurement by isothermal calorimetry

Dynamics of post-occlusion water diffusion in stratum corneum

Diffusion of water through membranes presents a considerable challenge, as the diffusivity often depends on the local concentration of water. One particular example with strong biological relevance is the stratum corneum (SC) as the primary permeability barrier for the skin. A simple alternative for the constant diffusivity model is provided by the Fujita's two-parameter rational approximation, which captures the experimentally observed fact that the SC diffusion constant for water increases with increasing the water concentration. Based on Fick's law of diffusion, a one-dimensional concentration-dependent diffusion model is developed and applied for the analysis of both the steady-state transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the non-steady-state so-called skin surface water loss (SSWL) occurred after removal of an occlusion patch from the SC surface. It is shown that some of the age-related changes in the SSWL can be qualitatively explained by the variation of the dimensionless Fujita concentration-dependence parameter.

Impact of solvent dry down, vehicle pH and slowly reversible keratin binding on skin penetration of cosmetic relevant compounds: I. Liquids

To measure progress and evaluate performance of the newest UB/UC/P&G skin penetration model we simulated an 18-compound subset of finite dose in vitro human skin permeation data taken from a solvent-deposition study of cosmetic-relevant compounds (Hewitt et al., J. Appl. Toxicol. 2019, 1-13). The recent model extension involved slowly reversible binding of solutes to stratum corneum keratins. The selected subset was compounds that are liquid at skin temperature. This set was chosen to distinguish between slow binding and slow dissolution effects that impact solid phase compounds. To adequately simulate the physical experiments there was a need to adjust the evaporation mass transfer coefficient to better represent the diffusion cell system employed in the study. After this adjustment the model successfully predicted both dermal delivery and skin surface distribution of 12 of the 18 compounds. Exceptions involved compounds that were cysteine-reactive, highly water-soluble or highly ionized in the dose solution. Slow binding to keratin, as presently parameterized, was shown to significantly modify the stratum corneum kinetics and diffusion lag times, but not the ultimate disposition, of the more lipophilic compounds in the dataset. Recommendations for further improvement of both modeling methods and experimental design are offered.

Human skin in vivo has a higher skin barrier function than porcine skin ex vivo-comprehensive Raman microscopic study of the stratum corneum

Porcine skin is widely used as a human skin model in dermatology. For both, porcine stratum corneum (SC) ex vivo and human SC in vivo, the hydrogen bonding states of water, the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) concentrations and the intercellular lipids' (ICL) lateral organization are investigated depth-dependently using confocal Raman microscopy. The SC depth profiles show that porcine SC ex vivo is characterized by lower hydrogen bonding states of water (10%-30% SC depth), lower NMF concentration in the whole SC, more β-sheet form of keratin (10%-90% SC depth), more folded tertiary keratin structures (30%-70% SC depth) and higher hexagonal lateral packing order of ICL (10%-50% SC depth) compared to human SC in vivo. The results clearly show a higher value of skin barrier function of human SC in vivo than of porcine SC ex vivo. Thus, the human SC in vivo is less permeable for lipophilic and hydrophilic substances than porcine SC ex vivo. Considering the porcine SC as an ex vivo model of human SC in vivo, these findings should be taken into consideration.

Characterization of Water Self-Diffusion in Human Stratum Corneum

The stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of human skin and primary barrier to water loss and chemical exposure. It consists of keratin-filled corneocytes of large aspect ratio surrounded by a thin matrix of highly organized lipophilic molecules. In the presence of water, the corneocytes swell and permeability for many chemicals increases. The role of hydration and SC structure on water self-diffusion was investigated using the pulsed-gradient stimulated echo nuclear magnetic resonance technique. Proton (¹H) self-diffusion, associated with water inside the corneocytes, was determined in human SC as a function of hydration, with and without lipid extraction, at 20°C to 40°C. SC layers were oriented either parallel or perpendicular to the field-gradient direction. Self-diffusion in the direction parallel to the long dimension of the corneocytes is unaffected by lipid extraction and consistent with a free-volume diffusion model. The effect of temperature corresponds with the activation energy of water in wool. Self-diffusion perpendicular to the long dimension of the corneocytes was less dependent on hydration and smaller than in the parallel direction, except at low hydration, when diffusion is insensitive to orientation. Corneocyte diffusion predicted by 2 microscopic SC models in common use are compared with our results.

Keratin-water-NMF interaction as a three layer model in the human stratum corneum using in vivo confocal Raman microscopy

The secondary and tertiary structure of keratin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are of great importance regarding the water regulating functions in the stratum corneum (SC). In this in vivo study, the depth-dependent keratin conformation and its relationship to the hydrogen bonding states of water and its content in the SC, are investigated using confocal Raman microscopy. Based on the obtained depth-profiles for the β-sheet/α-helix ratio, the stability of disulphide bonds, the amount of cysteine forming disulphide bonds, the buried/exposed tyrosine and the folding/unfolding states of keratin, a "three layer model" of the SC, regarding the keratin-water-NMF interaction is proposed. At the uppermost layers (30-0% SC depth), the keratin filaments are highly folded, entailing limited water binding sites, and NMF is mostly responsible for binding water. At the intermediate layers (70-30% SC depth), the keratin filaments are unfolded, have the most water binding sites and are prone to swelling. At the bottom layers (100-80% SC depth), the water binding sites are already occupied with water and cannot swell substantially. The hydrogen bonding states of water molecules can only be explained by considering both, the molecular structure of keratin and the contribution of NMF as a holistic system.

Depth profiles of hydrogen bound water molecule types and their relation to lipid and protein interaction in the human stratum corneum in vivo

Confocal Raman microscopy has been used to measure depth-dependent profiles of human SC in vivo in the high wavenumber (HWN) region. In order to keep the linearity of HWN region boundaries and to not remove an informative signal from Raman spectra, a new baseline subtraction procedure has been introduced. After baseline subtraction, the HWN spectrum was deconvoluted using 10 Gaussian functions with individual chemical meanings. The results show that the hydrogen bound water molecule types contributed differently to the water diffusion process in the SC. The most concentrated double donor-double acceptor (DDAA) and single donor-single acceptor (DA) water molecule types in the SC represent more than 90% of the SC's water and mostly contribute to the water flux in the skin. Single donor-double acceptor (DAA) and weakly-bound water molecule types represent less than 10% of the SC's water content. The most tightly hydrogen bound water molecule type, DAA, reaches its maximum concentration near the skin surface and does not take part in the water diffusion process via the SC. The results show that the hydrogen bonding state of water (DA/DDAA water molecule type ratio) reaches its maximum at the depth of approx. 30% of the SC thickness, which correlates well with the maximum lateral packing order of intercellular lipids (ICL) and the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and does not coincide with the folding/unfolding state of keratin. The NMF's contribution to the bonding of water in the SC is supposed to dominate over that of ICL.

The relationship between water loss, mechanical stress, and molecular structure of human stratum corneum ex vivo

Proper hydration of the stratum corneum (SC) is important for maintaining skin's vital functions. Water loss causes development of drying stresses, which can be perceived as 'tightness', and plays an important role in dry skin damage processes. However, molecular structure modifications arising from water loss and the subsequent development of stress has not been established. We investigated the drying stress mechanism by studying, ex vivo, the behaviors of the SC components during water desorption from initially fully hydrated samples using Raman spectroscopy. Simultaneously, we measure the SC mechanical stress with a substrate curvature instrument. Very good correlations of water loss to the mechanical stress of the stratum corneum were obtained, and the latter was found to depend mainly on the unbound water fraction. In addition to that, the water loss is accompanied with an increase of lipids matrix compactness characterized by lower chain freedom, while protein structure showed an increase in amount of α-helices, a decline in α-sheets, and an increase in folding in the tertiary structure of keratin. The drying process of SC involves a complex interplay of water binding, molecular modifications, and mechanical stress. This article provides a better understanding of the molecular mechanism associated to SC mechanics.

Dermal permeation of 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, a model water-miscible compound: effects of concentration, thermodynamic activity and skin hydration

The goal of these studies was to measure and interpret the skin permeability characteristics of 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate (HPA) as a model compound that is completely miscible with water.

METHODS

In vitro permeation from HPA-H2O binary mixtures through human epidermis and silicone membranes was measured. Thermodynamic activities of HPA and H2O in these mixtures were determined. Permeation was also measured through epidermis and silicone from donor solutions with constant HPA activity but different H2O activities. Water uptake into desiccated human stratum corneum (SC) equilibrated with HPA-H2O mixtures was determined.

RESULTS

Steady-state flux of HPA through silicone was a linear function of HPA activity but not HPA concentration. For epidermis on the other hand, flux increased with HPA activity only for HPA activities ≤ 0.35. At constant HPA activity, flux decreased 4.5-fold as water activity decreased from 1 to 0.8. Incubation of SC with HPA-H2O mixtures resulted in substantial changes in SC water content, dependent on the water activity of the mixture and consistent with measured SC water sorption data.

CONCLUSIONS

These experiments provide unequivocal evidence of a substantial increase in epidermal barrier function resulting from SC dehydration. Dehydration-related alterations in the SC appear responsible for the observed flux characteristics.