Plant cell culture extract of Cirsium eriophorum with skin pore refiner activity by modulating sebum production and inflammatory response

In vitro and split-faced placebo-controlled in vivo study on the skin rejuvenating effects of cream loaded with bioactive extract of Indigofera argentea Burm.f

The bioactive extracts of traditional medicinal plants are rich in polyphenols and help to rejuvenate skin. The study was designed to assess the skin rejuvenating effects of a stable cream enriched with 4% I. argentea (IaMe) extract. The quantity of polyphenols by spectrophotometric methods was TPC, 101.55 ± 0.03 mg GAE/g and total flavonoid content; 77.14 ± 0.13 mg QE/g, while HPLC-PDA revealed gallic acid; 4.91, chlorogenic acid 48.12, p-coumaric acid 0.43, and rutin 14.23 μg/g. The significant results of biological activities were observed as DPPH; 81.81% ± 0.05%, tyrosinase; 72% ± 0.23% compared to ascorbic acid (92.43% ± 0.03%), and kojic acid (78.80% ± 0.19%) respectively. Moreover, the promising sun protection effects Sun protection factor of extract (20.53) and formulation (10.59) were observed. The active cream formulation (w/o emulsion) was developed with liquid paraffin, beeswax, IaMe extract, and ABIL EM 90, which was stable for 90 days as shown by various stability parameters. The rheological results demonstrated the active formulation's non-Newtonian and pseudo-plastic characteristics and nearly spherical globules by SEM. The IaMe loaded cream was further investigated on human trial subjects for skin rejuvenating effects and visualized in 3D skin images. Herein, the results were significant compared to placebo. IaMe formulation causes a substantial drop in skin melanin from -1.70% (2 weeks) to -10.8% (12 weeks). Furthermore, it showed a significant increase in skin moisture and elasticity index from 7.7% to 39.15% and 2%-30%, respectively. According to the findings, Indigofera argentea extract has promising bioactivities and skin rejuvenating properties, rationalizing the traditional use and encouraging its exploitation for effective and economical cosmeceuticals.

In vitro and in vivo study of the efficacy of a new sebum control essence

BACKGROUND

People with oily skin often suffer from skin problems such as oily face, blackheads, acne, and enlarged pores. It is necessary to regulate oily skin with skin care products.

AIMS

To develop an effective sebum control essence to reduce oiliness of skin.

METHODS

The composition of the essence was designed in consideration of different oil control mechanism targets. The skin irritation was assessed in 30 volunteers by a single application close patch test. The efficacy of the essence was evaluated by in vitro experiment, short- and long-term clinical trials with over 60 volunteers.

RESULTS

The results of both in vitro and clinical trials showed that the essence had significant oil control and moisturizing effect, the skin oil content decreased by 21.8% within 8 h and 30.05% after 28 days, which indicated that the essence could achieve rapid and persistent sebum control efficacy. In addition, the essence could relieve the problems of enlarged pores, blackheads and whiteheads in long-term use.

CONCLUSIONS

The essence developed in this study can alleviate the problems of oily skin from many aspects, and achieve an excellent effect in oily skin regulation. It is suitable for a daily application in oily skin regulation.

Optimization of Ursolic Acid Extraction in Oil from Annurca Apple to Obtain Oleolytes with Potential Cosmeceutical Application

Ursolic acid (UA) is a plant-derived molecule with relevant anti-aging activity, which makes this molecule a potential functional active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. The main objectives of this study were to optimize the UA extraction process from Annurca apple (AA) with sunflower oil as a lyophilic food-grade solvent using Response Surface Methodology (RSM) to determine the potential cosmetic application of the obtained extract. The results of RSM analysis showed a maximum UA yield of 784.40 ± 7.579 (μg/mL) obtained under the following optimized conditions: sunflower oil as extraction solvent, 68.85 °C as extraction temperature, and 63 h as extraction time. The HPLC-DAD-HESI-MS/MS analysis performed on the extract obtained under these conditions, named Optimized Annurca Apple Oleolyte (OAAO), led to the identification of twenty-three phenolic and terpenoid molecules and the quantification of eight of them. To explore the biological properties of OAAO, the in vitro antioxidant activity was evaluated by DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP assays, resulting in 16.63 ± 0.22, 5.90 ± 0.49, and 21.72 ± 0.68 μmol Trolox equivalent/g extract, respectively. Moreover, the permeation study has shown that OAAO may be considered a safe and functional ingredient in potential cosmetic formulations.

Dermocosmetic evaluation of a nutricosmetic formulation based on Curcuma

Endogenous and exogenous factors can alter the skin layer and appearance, determining skin aging. The extracts and isolated molecules from food matrixes can be used to formulate "healthy" antiaging cosmetics. Two different cosmetic approaches can be used to achieve the antiaging effect. It is possible to use topical products based on food extract (cosmeceutical approach) or take a food supplement and apply a topical cosmetic product based on food extract on the surface to be treated (nutricosmetic approach). This work evaluated in vivo the antiaging potential of a nutricosmetic formulation (cream + food supplement) and a cosmeceutical cream based on Curcuma. The choice of the commercial Curcuma extract to be used for experimental purposes was based on the curcuminoid content determined by an HPLC test. Curcuminoids are the bioactive compounds responsible for Curcuma's antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. Their levels in Curcuma extracts vary according to the storage condition, variety, and pedoclimatic cultivation conditions. The Tewameter® TM300 was used to evaluate the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), the Corneometer® CM 825 to determine the moisturizing effect, the Cutometer® to estimate the skin firmness and elasticity, the Dermascan to assess the collagen index, and the Visioface® 1000D to evaluate the wrinkles. The nutricosmetic product showed potential as moisturizing, anti-age, and anti-wrinkle action better than the cosmeceutical product alone.

Herbal Therapy for the Treatment of Seborrhea Dermatitis

Seborrhea dermatitis is a skin disorder that usually appears on parts of the body that have high density of sebaceous glands, such as the face, chest, and scalp. Clinical manifestations that generally appear as scaly skin and erythema. Seborrhea dermatitis is also known as one of the causes of alopecia. Treatments that can be used for seborrhea dermatitis are antifungal, anti-inflammatory, keratolytic, and coal tar. There are concerns about poor adherence, resistance, and some side effects of drugs that have been used in the treatment of seborrhea dermatitis. Concerns regarding these issues increase the urgency for the development of new therapeutic agents in the treatment of seborrhea dermatitis. Research on medicinal plants has enormous potential to produce compounds with new structures and bioactivity. This review discusses clinical and in vitro studies related to the activity of several medicinal plants that have potential as a treatment for seborrhea dermatitis, as well as the compounds that play a role in these activities. Literature searches were carried out on the PubMed, Taylor & Francis, and SpringerLink databases using Boolean Operators to get 25 articles that match the keywords used. Of the 25 articles, six were clinical trials, while 19 were in vitro studies of Malassezia. Several plants have potential as promising therapeutic agents for the treatment of seborrhea dermatitis by inhibiting the growth of Malassezia, decreasing sebum secretion, and decreasing symptoms associated with seborrhea dermatitis such as itching, pain or burning sensation, and redness.

Contribution of Nanoscience Research in Antioxidants Delivery Used in Nutricosmetic Sector

Nanoscience applications in the food and cosmetic industry offer many potential benefits for consumers and society. Nanotechnologies permit the manipulation of matter at the nanoscale level, resulting in new properties and characteristics useful in food and cosmetic production, processing, packaging, and storage. Nanotechnology protects sensitive bioactive compounds, improves their bioavailability and water solubility, guarantees their release at a site of action, avoids contact with other constituents, and masks unpleasant taste. Biopolymeric nanoparticles, nanofibers, nanoemulsions, nanocapsules, and colloids are delivery systems used to produce food supplements and cosmetics. There are no barriers to nanoscience applications in food supplements and cosmetic industries, although the toxicity of nano-sized delivery systems is not clear. The physicochemical and toxicological characterization of nanoscale delivery systems used by the nutricosmeceutic industry is reviewed in this work.

In Vitro and In Vivo Regulation of SRD5A mRNA Expression of Supercritical Carbon Dioxide Extract from Asparagus racemosus Willd. Root as Anti-Sebum and Pore-Minimizing Active Ingredients

Oily skin from overactive sebaceous glands affects self-confidence and personality. There is report of an association between steroid 5-alpha reductase gene (SRD5A) expression and facial sebum production. There is no study of the effect of Asparagus racemosus Willd. root extract on the regulation of SRD5A mRNA expression and anti-sebum efficacy. This study extracted A. racemosus using the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid technique with ethanol and investigated its biological compounds and activities. The A. racemosus root extract had a high content of polyphenolic compounds, including quercetin, naringenin, and p-coumaric acid, and DPPH scavenging activity comparable to that of the standard L-ascorbic acid. A. racemosus root extract showed not only a significant reduction in SRD5A1 and SRD5A2 mRNA expression by about 45.45% and 90.86%, respectively, but also a reduction in the in vivo anti-sebum efficacy in male volunteers, with significantly superior percentage changes in facial sebum production and a reduction in the percentages of pore area after 15 and 30 days of treatment. It can be concluded that A. racemosus root extract with a high content of polyphenol compounds, great antioxidant effects, promising downregulation of SRD5A1 and SRD5A2, and predominant facial sebum reduction and pore-minimizing efficacy could be a candidate for an anti-sebum and pore-minimizing active ingredient to serve in functional cosmetic applications.

Bio Discarded from Waste to Resource

The modern linear agricultural production system allows the production of large quantities of food for an ever-growing population. However, it leads to large quantities of agricultural waste either being disposed of or treated for the purpose of reintroduction into the production chain with a new use. Various approaches in food waste management were explored to achieve social benefits and applications. The extraction of natural bioactive molecules (such as fibers and antioxidants) through innovative technologies represents a means of obtaining value-added products and an excellent measure to reduce the environmental impact. Cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and nutraceutical industries can use natural bioactive molecules as supplements and the food industry as feed and food additives. The bioactivities of phytochemicals contained in biowaste, their potential economic impact, and analytical procedures that allow their recovery are summarized in this study. Our results showed that although the recovery of bioactive molecules represents a sustainable means of achieving both waste reduction and resource utilization, further research is needed to optimize the valuable process for industrial-scale recovery.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

An Extract from Ficus carica Cell Cultures Works as an Anti-Stress Ingredient for the Skin

Psychological stress activates catecholamine production, determines oxidation processes, and alters the lipid barrier functions in the skin. Scientific evidence associated with the detoxifying effect of fruits and vegetables, the growing awareness of the long-term issues related to the use of chemical-filled cosmetics, the aging of the population, and the increase in living standards are the factors responsible for the growth of food-derived ingredients in the cosmetics market. A Ficus carica cell suspension culture extract (FcHEx) was tested in vitro (on keratinocytes cells) and in vivo to evaluate its ability to manage the stress-hormone-induced damage in skin. The FcHEx reduced the epinephrine (-43% and -24% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), interleukin 6 (-38% and -36% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), lipid peroxide (-25%), and protein carbonylation (-50%) productions; FcHEx also induced ceramide synthesis (+150%) and ameliorated the lipid barrier performance. The in vivo experiments confirmed the in vitro test results. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL; -12.2%), sebum flow (-46.6% after two weeks and -73.8% after four weeks; on the forehead -56.4% after two weeks and -80.1% after four weeks), and skin lightness (+1.9% after two weeks and +2.7% after four weeks) defined the extract's effects on the skin barrier. The extract of the Ficus carica cell suspension cultures reduced the transepidermal water loss, the sebum production, the desquamation, and facial skin turning to a pale color from acute stress, suggesting its role as an ingredient to fight the signs of psychological stress in the skin.