A liquid chromatography–fluorimetric method for the in vitro estimation of the skin penetration of disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate from sunscreen formulations through human skin

RP-18 TLC and Computational Descriptors of Skin Permeability of Sunscreens

Abstract The relationships between the reversed-phase thin layer chromatographic retention parameters obtained on octadecyl-modified silica (RP-18) sorbent for mobile phases containing water and one of six water-miscible organic modifiers (acetone, methanol, acetonitrile, tetrahydrofurane, N,N-dimethylformamide, 1,4-dioxane) and skin permeability coefficients were studied for a group of 21 cosmetic raw materials, mainly organic sunscreens and preservatives. The correlations between the skin permeability coefficients log Kd calculated in silico using EpiSuite software and the RP-18 thin layer chromatographic retention parameters are mostly linear, especially for compounds of lower-to-medium lipophilicity.. It was established that skin permeability coefficient models based on retention parameters collected for mobile phases containing acetone or dioxane (75% v/v), proposed for structurally unrelated cosmetic raw materials are also applicable to other actives, as shown using a test set of compounds whose in vivo log Kd data are available. Skin permeability models developed in this study have the benefit of being based on easily obtained, chromatographic descriptors and their applicability extends beyond cosmetic chemistry.

A reversed-phase ion-interaction chromatographic method for in-vitro estimation of the percutaneous absorption of water-soluble UV filters

An analytical method based on ion-interaction chromatography with UV detection for simultaneous in-vitro estimation of the percutaneous absorption of the most used water-soluble UV filters in sunscreen cosmetics is proposed. These UV filters were phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, benzophenone-4, and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid. The methodology is based on applying the sunscreen containing the target UV filters to human epidermis in a diffusion cell. Analytes are determined in the receptor solution. To ensure skin integrity, screening of the cells was carried out by analytical determination of a marker. Analytical variables such as percentage ethanol, concentration of ion-pairing agent, pH of the mobile phase, and temperature were studied in order to achieve high resolution of the chromatographic peaks in the lowest possible time of analysis. The conditions selected consisted of a mobile phase composed of 35:65 (v/v) ethanol-ammonium acetate buffer solution (pH 4, containing 50 mmol L(-1) tetra-n-butylammonium bromide). The chromatographic determination was carried out with the analytical column at 50 degrees C. UV detection was carried out at the maximum absorption wavelength for each analyte. The limit of detection (3s(y/x)/b) ranged from 16 to 65 ng mL(-1), depending on the analyte.

ESI–MS method for in vitro investigation of skin penetration by copper–amino acid complexes: from an emulsion through a model membrane

Copper can be found in many cosmetic formulations, mainly as complexes with peptides, hydroxyacids or amino acids. The main reason that the usage of this element in this context is still increasing is its beneficial biochemical activity, although the mechanism that enables its complexes to permeate through skin barriers is largely unknown. The ability of copper complexes with amino acids to penetrate through the stratum corneum and participate in copper ion transport processes is key to their cosmetic and pharmaceutical activities. The penetration process was studied in vitro in a model system, a Franz diffusion cell with a liposome membrane, where a liquid crystalline system with physicochemical properties similar to those of the intercellular cement of stratum corneum was used to model the skin barrier. The influences of various ligands on the model membrane migration rate of copper ions was studied, and the results highlighted the crucial roles of metal ion complex structure and stability in this process.