Comparison of extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in historical textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography

Development of a Combined Protein and Dye Extraction Approach for the Analysis of Keratin-Based Textiles

Archaeological textiles represent precious remains from ancient culture; this is because of the historical and cultural importance of the information that can be obtained by such relics. However, the extremely complicated state of preservation of these textiles, which can be charred, partially or totally mineralized, with heavy soil or biological contamination, requires highly specialized and sensitive analytical tools to perform a comprehensive study. Starting from these considerations, the paper presents a combined workflow that provides the extraction of dyes and keratins and keratin-associated proteins in a single step, minimizing sampling while maximizing the amount of information gained. In the first phase, different approaches were tested and two different protocols were found suitable for the purpose of the unique workflow for dyes/keratin-proteins: a slightly modified urea protocol and a recently proposed new TCEP/CAA procedure. In the second step, after the extraction, different methods of cleanup and workflow for proteins and dyes were investigated to develop protocols that did not result in a loss of aliquots of the analytes of interest and to maximize the recovery of both components from the extracting solution. These protocols investigated the application of two types of paramagnetic beads, unmodified and carboxylate-coated hydrophilic magnetic beads, and dialysis and stage-tip protocols. The newly designed protocols have been applied to cochineal, weld, orchil, kermes, and indigo keratin-based dyed samples to evaluate the effectiveness of the protocols on several dye sources. These protocols, based on a single extraction step, show the possibility of investigating dyes and keratins from a unique sample of 1 mg or lesser, with respect to the thresholds of sensitivity and accuracy required in the study of textile artifacts of historical and artistic values.

New Advances in Dye Analyses: In Situ Gel-Supported Liquid Extraction from Paint Layers and Textiles for SERS and HPLC-MS/MS Identification

To date, it is still not possible to obtain exhaustive information about organic materials in cultural heritage without sampling. Nonetheless, when studying unique objects with invaluable artistic or historical significance, preserving their integrity is a priority. In particular, organic dye identification is of significant interest for history and conservation research, but it is still hindered by analytes' low concentration and poor fastness. In this work, a minimally invasive approach for dye identification is presented. The procedure is designed to accompany noninvasive analyses of inorganic substances for comprehensive studies of complex cultural heritage matrices, in compliance with their soundness. Liquid extraction of madder, turmeric, and indigo dyes was performed directly from paint layers and textiles. The extraction was supported by hydrogels, which themselves can undergo multitechnique analyses in the place of samples. After extraction, Ag colloid pastes were applied on the gels for SERS analyses, allowing for the identification of the three dyes. For the HPLC-MS/MS analyses, re-extraction of the dyes was followed by a clean-up step that was successfully applied on madder and turmeric. The colour change perceptivity after extraction was measured with colorimetry. The results showed ΔE values mostly below the upper limit of rigorous colour change, confirming the gentleness of the procedure.

Noninvasive Characterization and Quantification of Anthraquinones in Dyed Woolen Threads by Visible Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy

The anthraquinone components of the roots of various species of madder (like Rubia tinctorum L. and Rubia peregrina L.) have been used for millennia as red colorants in textiles, carpets, tapestries, and other objects. To understand the selection and preparation of dyestuffs in various cultures and historical periods, these dyes (mainly alizarin and purpurin) are traditionally analyzed by means of separation methods that require sampling. This contribution focuses on establishing a fast, noninvasive, and in situ analytical procedure based on visible reflectance spectroscopy for the characterization and quantification of anthraquinones in ancient wool yarns. The method was successfully applied to Coptic textiles, and the analytical results are in agreement with prior observations obtained on samples by separation techniques.

Identification of Dyes in Coptic Textiles from the Museum of Faculty of Archaeology, Cairo University

High Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled to a Diode-Array-Detector (HPLC-DAD) is used to investigate samples which were extracted from ancient Egyptian textiles (4th–5th c. AD) of the Museum of Faculty of Archaeology, Cairo University. Madder is identified in several samples. According to semi-quantitative results, which are obtained from HPLC peak areas measured at 254 nm, madder that is rich in purpurin and poor in alizarin is identified in samples which were treated (i) only with madder and (ii) with madder and either indigo/woad (Indigofera species and other/Isatis tinctoria L.) or weld (Reseda luteola L.). The madder dye used in these samples could have been originated from Rubia peregrina L. However, the possible use of Rubia tinctorum L. (or other plants of the Rubiaceae family) by the Egyptian dyers cannot be ruled out, particularly if methods were developed by the ancient dyers to affect and control the relative composition of madder dye. The HPLC peak area ratio of alizarin versus purpurin is very high (>2.2) for samples which were treated with madder (probably originated from R. tinctorum) and a tannin source. Finally, in some samples, only indigoid dyes (indigo/woad) are identified.

An optimised small-scale sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis using UHPLC-PDA applied to Scottish and English Renaissance embroidery

A sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis requiring less sample has been developed. Samples as small as 0.01 ± 0.005 mg have been successfully analysed and high percentage recoveries (>85%), more automation and shorter preparation time have been achieved using filtration by centrifugation and only one manual transfer. The optimised workflow based on 96 well plates together with the shorter UHPLC method developed makes dye analysis data collection faster from unprocessed sample to result, facilitating the creation of larger datasets and application of chemometric approaches. The method was evaluated on 85 samples from 12 dye sources (RSD < 5.1%, n = 5) as well as 22 samples from a 17^th century embroidered stomacher from the National Museums Scotland (NMS) collection.

Textile Dyes from Gokstad Viking Ship’s Grave

The grave from Gokstad in Norway, dating to ca 900 AD, is one of the best-preserved Viking Age ship graves in the world. The grave mound contained a variety of goods along with human remains, buried in a Viking ship. Several textiles, including embroideries and shreds of what might have been the ship’s tent, were also found. The colors of the textile fragments are now severely faded, but the high quality of the embroidery made of gold and silk threads is still apparent. The style of the embroidery is exceptional, having no equivalents in other Scandinavian graves. The analyses by HPLC coupled with both diode array and mass spectrometric detectors revealed that the striped “tent” cloth as well as the silk thread used for the embroidery were originally dyed with anthraquinones of plant origin (alizarin, purpurin, pseudopurpurin, and anthragallol), markers of madder-type dyestuffs.

Multi-Technique Investigation of Grave Robes from 17th and 18th Century Crypts Using Combined Spectroscopic, Spectrometric Techniques, and New-Generation Sequencing

The textile fragments of the funeral clothes found in the 17th and 18th century crypts were subjected to spectroscopic, spectrometric, and microbial investigation. The next-generation sequencing enabled DNA identification of microorganisms at the genus and in five cases to the species level. The soft hydrofluoric acid extraction method was optimized to isolate different classes of dyes from samples that had direct contact with human remains. High-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode matrix and tandem mass spectrometry detectors with electrospray ionization (HPLC-DAD-ESI-MS/MS) enabled the detection and identification of 34 colourants that are present in historical textiles. Some of them are thus far unknown and uncommon dyes. Indigo, madder, cochineal, turmeric, tannin-producing plant, and young fustic were identified as sources of dyes in textiles. Scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDS) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) were used to identify and characterize fibres and mordants in funeral gowns. Of the 23 textile samples tested, 19 were silk while the remaining four were recognized as wool. The presence of iron, aluminium, sodium, and calcium suggests that they were used as mordants. Traces of copper, silica, and magnesium might originate from the contaminants. The large amount of silver indicated the presence of metal wire in one of the dyed silk textiles. SEM images showed that textile fibres were highly degraded.

Development and validation of a liquid chromatographic method with diode array detection for the determination of anthraquinones, flavonoids and other natural dyes in aged silk

A HPLC method coupled with diode array detector was developed and validated for the quantitation of alizarin, apigenin, carminic acid, curcumin, ellagic acid, emodin, fisetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, kermesic acid, morin, purpurin, quercetin and sulfuretin which are components of several natural dyes. 1- Hydroxyanthraquinone was selected as internal standard. The compounds were separated under gradient elution on a RP-column (Altima C18, 250 mm x 3.0 mm i.d., 5 μm) with a mobile phase consisting of solvent A: H₂O + 0.1% (v/v) trifluoroacetic acid and solvent B: acetonitrile + 0.1% (v/v) trifluoroacetic acid. The method was validated in terms of linearity, limits of detection and quantitation, accuracy, precision, ruggedness and robustness and applied to the analysis of silk dyed with buckthorn (Rhamnus trees), cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa), madder (Rubia tinctorum L.), turmeric (Curcuma longa L.) and young fustic (Cotinus coggygria Scop). Furthermore, dyed silk samples were subjected to artificially accelerated ageing conditions induced by UV radiation. The effect of the latter on the quantities of the aforementioned compounds was monitored, except for apigenin, kermesic acid and morin.

Microextraction of Reseda luteola-Dyed Wool and Qualitative Analysis of Its Flavones by UHPLC-UV, NMR and MS

Detailed knowledge on natural dyes is important for agronomy and quality control as well as the fastness, stability, and analysis of dyed textiles. Weld (Reseda luteola L.), which is a source of flavone-based yellow dye, is the focus of this study. One aim was to reduce the required amount of dyed textile to ≤50 μg for a successful chromatographic analysis. The second aim was to unambiguously confirm the identity of all weld flavones. By carrying out the extraction of 50 μg dyed wool with 25 μL of solvent and analysis by reversed-phase UHPLC at 345 nm, reproducible chromatographic fingerprints could be obtained with good signal to noise ratios. Ten baseline separated peaks with relative areas ≥1% were separated in 6 min. Through repeated polyamide column chromatography and prepHPLC, the compounds corresponding with the fingerprint peaks were purified from dried weld. Each was unequivocally identified, including the position and configuration of attached sugars, by means of 1D and 2D NMR and high-resolution MS. Apigenin-4′-O-glucoside and luteolin-4′-O-glucoside were additionally identified as two trace flavones co-eluting with other flavone glucosides, the former for the first time in weld. The microextraction might be extended to other used dye plants, thus reducing the required amount of precious historical textiles.

Nature-derived compounds modulating Wnt/ -catenin pathway: a preventive and therapeutic opportunity in neoplastic diseases

The Wnt/β-catenin signaling is a conserved pathway that has a crucial role in embryonic and adult life. Dysregulation of the Wnt/β-catenin pathway has been associated with diseases including cancer, and components of the signaling have been proposed as innovative therapeutic targets, mainly for cancer therapy. The attention of the worldwide researchers paid to this issue is increasing, also in view of the therapeutic potential of these agents in diseases, such as Parkinson's disease (PD), for which no cure is existing today. Much evidence indicates that abnormal Wnt/β-catenin signaling is involved in tumor immunology and the targeting of Wnt/β-catenin pathway has been also proposed as an attractive strategy to potentiate cancer immunotherapy. During the last decade, several products, including naturally occurring dietary agents as well as a wide variety of products from plant sources, including curcumin, quercetin, berberin, and ginsenosides, have been identified as potent modulators of the Wnt/β-catenin signaling and have gained interest as promising candidates for the development of chemopreventive or therapeutic drugs for cancer. In this review we make an overview of the nature-derived compounds reported to have antitumor activity by modulating the Wnt/β-catenin signaling, also focusing on extraction methods, chemical features, and bio-activity assays used for the screening of these compounds.

Analysis of Natural Dyes from Historical Objects by High Performance Liquid Chromatography and Electromigration Techniques

Based on material published between 1989 and 2018 in this paper high performance liquid chromatography and electromigration techniques used in studies of natural dyes that can be found in historical objects are rewieved. Different aspects of analysis have been discussed: the stationary and mobile phase, the choice of sample solvent, methods of extraction and detection, including sensitivity parameters, such as LOD and/or LOQ. The discussed dyes have been divided into three categories (a) red antraquinone dyes along with dyes extracted from bark and tree juices, (b) yellow flavonoid dyes and saffron and (c) blue indigoid dyes. The main markers (chromophores or auxochromes) typical for each dye source were presented which allows to identify specific species of source plants and animals. The first part of the study involved the analysis of most critical findings when it comes to HPLC or represented an significant analytical approach. The second part of the study is focused on different aspects of electromigration techniques application in analysis of natural dyes with special attention paid on such parameters as the running buffer/mobile phase composition and sample solvent. Detection methods along with LOD and LOQ comparison in HPLC and electromigration techniques were also discussed. Methods of sample preparation, such as hydrolysis and extraction, used in HPLC and electromigration techniques were also briefly discussed.

A Mass Spectrometric Study on Tannin Degradation within Dyed Woolen Yarns

Natural tannins from various plants have been used throughout human history in textile dyeing, often as mordant dyes. The ageing behavior of these dyes is a challenge in conservation science, requiring a thorough knowledge of the textile–mordant-dye system. In this work, we analyzed reference wool yarns dyed with natural tannins from oak gallnuts, walnut (Juglans regia), and catechu (Acacia catechu), after artificial ageing. To gain insights on the composition of the dyestuffs and on how they aged, an analytical procedure based on extraction with Na₂EDTA/DMF (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid/dimethylformamide) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis using high-resolution mass spectrometry detection was used. Since conventional reversed-phase (RP) columns usually show poor retention efficiency of highly polar compounds such as tannins, an RP-amide embedded polar group stationary phase was used to achieve optimal retention of the most polar compounds. Tannins from oak gallnuts showed little degradation after ageing, while a significant increase in the content of hydroxybenzoic acids was observed for tannins from walnut and catechu. Finally, the analytical procedure was applied to characterize the tannin dyes in historical tapestries from the 15^th to 16^th century, and the results were discussed in comparison with the reference yarns.

Liquid chromatography: Current applications in Heritage Science and recent developments

Liquid chromatography has been widely employed in the analysis of materials in Heritage Science, due to its ease of use and relatively low-cost, starting from thin layer chromatography of organic binders in paintings, of archaeological waxes and resins, and finally of natural dyes. High performance systems employing analytical columns containing packed stationary phases gradually supplanted thin layer chromatography (TLC) in the field, since the separation, detection and quantitation of specific species contained in a sample in the field of Cultural Heritage requires selective, sensitive and reliable methods, allowing for analysing a wide range of samples, in terms of analyte types and concentration range. Today, the main applications of High-Performance Liquid Chromatography in this field are related to the separation and detection of dyestuffs in archaeological materials and paint samples by reversed-phase liquid chromatography with suitable detectors. Proteomics and lipidomics are also gaining momentum in the last decade, thanks to the increased availability of instrumentation and procedures. In this chapter, principles and theory of liquid chromatography will be presented. A short review of the instrumentation needed to perform an analysis will be provided and some general principles of sample preparation revised. More details on the detection systems, the chromatographic set-ups and specific sample treatment strategies will be provided in the individual sections dedicated to the applications to Heritage Science of the main types of liquid chromatographic techniques. In particular, the applications of thin layer chromatography will be shortly described in paragraph 4.1. The applications of Reverse Phase High Performance Liquid Chromatography (RP-HPLC) will be discussed in detail in paragraph 4.2, including the analysis of natural and synthetic dyes and pigments and the profiling of lipid materials. The possibility to perform proteomic analysis will be presented and a link to the relevant Chapter in this book provided. The most important and promising applications of ion exchange chromatography (IC) will be discussed in paragraph 4.3. Finally, size exclusion and gel permeation chromatography (GPC) will be presented in paragraph 4.4, including applications to the study of polymeric network formation in paint binders, of the phenomena related to the depolymerisation of cellulose in paper and of cellulose and lignin in wood samples. The possibility to study synthetic polymers as artists’ materials and restorers’ tools by size exclusion (SEC) or gel permeation (GPC) will also be introduced. In the conclusions, future perspectives of liquid chromatography in Heritage Science will be briefly discussed.

Chromatographic and Spectroscopic Identification and Recognition of Natural Dyes, Uncommon Dyestuff Components, and Mordants: Case Study of a 16th Century Carpet with Chintamani Motifs

A multi-tool analytical practice was used for the characterisation of a 16th century carpet manufactured in Cairo. A mild extraction method with hydrofluoric acid has been evaluated in order to isolate intact flavonoids and their glycosides, anthraquinones, tannins, and indigoids from fibre samples. High-performance liquid chromatography coupled to spectroscopic and mass spectrometric detectors was used for the identification of possible marker compounds with special attention paid to natural dyes present in the historical samples. Weld, young fustic, and soluble redwood dye were identified as the dye sources in yellow thread samples. Based on the developed method, it was possible to establish that red fibres were coloured with lac dye, whereas green fibre shades were obtained with indigo and weld. Tannin-containing plant material in combination with indigo and weld were used to obtain the brown hue of the thread. Hyphenation of high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (QTOF MS) and triple-quadrupole mass spectrometry (QqQ MS) enabled us to recognise four uncommon and thus-far unknown dye components that were also found in the historical samples. These compounds probably represent a unique fingerprint of dyed threads manufactured in a Turkish workshop. Scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDS) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) were used for the identification and characterisation of substrates and mordants present in the historical carpet. Carbon and oxygen were detected in large quantities as a part of the wool protein. The presence of aluminium, iron, and calcium indicated their usage as mordants. Trace amounts of copper, silica, and magnesium might originate from the contaminants. FT-IR analysis showed bands characteristic for woollen fibres and SEM micrographs defined the structure of the wool.

Surface Acoustic Wave Nebulisation Mass Spectrometry for the Fast and Highly Sensitive Characterisation of Synthetic Dyes in Textile Samples

Surface acoustic wave nebulisation (SAWN) mass spectrometry (MS) is a method to generate gaseous ions compatible with direct MS of minute samples at femtomole sensitivity. To perform SAWN, acoustic waves are propagated through a LiNbO₃ sampling chip, and are conducted to the liquid sample, which ultimately leads to the generation of a fine mist containing droplets of nanometre to micrometre diameter. Through fission and evaporation, the droplets undergo a phase change from liquid to gaseous analyte ions in a non-destructive manner. We have developed SAWN technology for the characterisation of organic colourants in textiles. It generates electrospray-ionisation-like ions in a non-destructive manner during ionisation, as can be observed by the unmodified chemical structure. The sample size is decreased by tenfold to 1000-fold when compared with currently used liquid chromatography-MS methods, with equal or better sensitivity. This work underscores SAWN-MS as an ideal tool for molecular analysis of art objects as it is non-destructive, is rapid, involves minimally invasive sampling and is more sensitive than current MS-based methods. Graphical Abstract ᅟ.

Mild extraction methods using aqueous glucose solution for the analysis of natural dyes in textile artefacts dyed with Dyer's madder (Rubia tinctorum L.)

Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been widely used as a red dye throughout history. Acid-sensitive colorants present in madder, such as glycosides (lucidin primeveroside, ruberythric acid, galiosin) and sensitive aglycons (lucidin), are degraded in the textile back extraction process; in previous literature these sensitive molecules are either absent or present in only low concentrations due to the use of acid in typical textile back extraction processes. Anthraquinone aglycons alizarin and purpurin are usually identified in analysis following harsh back extraction methods, such those using solvent mixtures with concentrated hydrochloric acid at high temperatures. Use of softer extraction techniques potentially allows for dye components present in madder to be extracted without degradation, which can potentially provide more information about the original dye profile, which varies significantly between madder varieties, species and dyeing technique. Herein, a softer extraction method involving aqueous glucose solution was developed and compared to other back extraction techniques on wool dyed with root extract from different varieties of Rubia tinctorum. Efficiencies of the extraction methods were analysed by HPLC coupled with diode array detection. Acidic literature methods were evaluated and they generally caused hydrolysis and degradation of the dye components, with alizarin, lucidin, and purpurin being the main compounds extracted. In contrast, extraction in aqueous glucose solution provides a highly effective method for extraction of madder dyed wool and is shown to efficiently extract lucidin primeveroside and ruberythric acid without causing hydrolysis and also extract aglycons that are present due to hydrolysis during processing of the plant material. Glucose solution is a favourable extraction medium due to its ability to form extensive hydrogen bonding with glycosides present in madder, and displace them from the fibre. This new glucose method offers an efficient process that preserves these sensitive molecules and is a step-change in analysis of madder dyed textiles as it can provide further information about historical dye preparation and dyeing processes that current methods cannot. The method also efficiently extracts glycosides in artificially aged samples, making it applicable for museum textile artefacts.

Extraction and Quantification of Bioactive Tyrian Purple Precursors: A Comparative and Validation Study from the Hypobranchial Gland of a Muricid Dicathais orbita

Muricidae are marine molluscs known for the production of Tyrian purple and bioactive precursor compounds. A validation study for the extraction and analysis of secondary metabolites found in the hypobranchial gland of the muricid Dicathais orbita is reported, using high performance liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) with diode array detector (DAD). Quantification of the dominant secondary metabolites from D. orbita is described, followed by a comparison of solvent extraction procedures and stability studies. The intra- and inter-day relative standard deviation (RSD) for tyrindoxyl sulphate was 0.46% and 0.17%, respectively. The quantification was linear for standards murexine, 6-bromoisatin, and tyrindoxyl sulphate. The limits of detection were 0.03, 0.004, and 0.07 mg/mL, respectively, and the limits of quantification were 0.09, 0.01, and 0.22 mg/mL, respectively. The results showed that alcoholic solvents were better for extracting choline ester and indoxyl sulphate ultimate precursors, while chloroform was more suitable for the extraction of the intermediate precursors. Multivariate analysis revealed significant differences in extract composition according to the solvent used. Stability testing showed an increase of the oxidative compounds 6-bromoisatin and putative tyrindoxyl S-oxide sulphate in the ethanol extracts while more degradation products were seen in the chloroform extracts after months of cold storage. The validated method was found to be simple, reproducible, precise, and suitable for quantification of the secondary metabolites of muricid molluscs for dye precursor and nutraceutical quality control, as well as applications in marine chemical ecology.

Investigation of crimson-dyed fibres for a new approach on the characterization of cochineal and kermes dyes in historical textiles

The colorant behaviour of cochineal and kermes insect dyes in 141 experimentally-dyed and 28 artificially-aged samples of silk and wool was investigated using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography coupled to photodiode array detector (UHPLC-PDA), liquid chromatography electrospray ionisation mass spectrometry (LC-ESI-MS) and image scanning electron microscopy - energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX). Partial-least squares discriminant analysis (PLS-DA) was then used to model the acquired UHPLC-PDA data and assess the possibility of discriminating cochineal insect species, as well as their correspondent dyed and aged reference fibres. The resulting models helped to characterize a set of 117 red samples from 95 historical textiles, in which UHPLC-PDA analyses have reported the presence of cochineal and kermes insect dyes. Analytical investigation of the experimentally-dyed and artificially-aged fibres has demonstrated that the ratio of compounds in the insects dye composition can change, depending on the dyeing conditions applied and the type of fibres used. Similarities were observed when comparing the UHPLC-MS and SEM-EDX results from the dyed and aged references with the historical samples. This was verified with PLS-DA models of the chromatographic data, facilitating the classification of the cochineal species present in the historical samples. The majority of these samples were identified to contain American cochineal, which is in agreement with historical and dye identification literature that describe the impact of this dyestuff into European and Asian dyeing practices, after the Iberian Expansion in the 16th century. The analytical results emphasize the importance of using statistical data interpretation for the discrimination of cochineal dyes, besides qualitative and quantitative evaluation of chromatograms. Hence, the combination of UHPLC-PDA with a statistical classification method, such as PLS-DA, has been demonstrated to be an advisable approach in future investigations to assess closely related species of natural dyes in historical textile samples. This is particularly important when aiming to achieve more accurate interpretations about the history of works of art, or the application of natural dyes in old textile production.

Identification and characterization of the Indian Yellow dyestuff and its degradation products in historical oil paint tube by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry

An analytical protocol for identification of dyes using reversed phase liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry with atmospheric pressure electrospray ionization (LC-ESI/MS) is presented.

HPLC-UV-ESI MS/MS identification of the color constituents of sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L.)

Extracts from wool dyed with sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L.) obtained with methanol/formic acid and methanol/hydrochloric acid solutions were examined by high-performance liquid chromatography with UV detection coupled with electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry. Chromatograms and mass spectra were registered in the negative ion mode under various orifice voltages and collision energies, which enabled us to observe signals corresponding to [M − H]⁻ ions and also Y⁻ and/or Y^−• ions, which were further subjected to fragmentation. The results obtained allowed us to define previously unknown constituents of sawwort, which are proposed as specific markers for its identification: chlorogenic acid and its isomers, luteolin-O-glucuronides, eriodictyol-O-glucuronides, and diosmetin-O-glucuronides. Moreover, it was found that during extraction, flavonoid O-glucuronides react with methanol in the presence of hydrochloric acid, forming stable O-methylated derivatives.

Pyrene nanoparticles as a novel FRET probe for detection of rhodamine 6G: spectroscopic ruler for textile effluent

The hydrophobic force of interaction between R6G and SDS stabilized PyNPs involving FRET was demonstrated by measuring fluorescence of nanoparticles as a function of concentration of R6G.

Evaluation between ultrahigh pressure liquid chromatography and high-performance liquid chromatography analytical methods for characterizing natural dyestuffs

An evaluation was undertaken of ultrahigh pressure liquid chromatography (UHPLC) in comparison to high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) for characterizing natural dyes in cultural heritage objects. A new UHPLC method was optimized by testing several analytical parameters adapted from prior UHPLC studies developed in diverse fields of research. Different gradient elution programs were tested on seven UHPLC columns with different dimensions and stationary phase compositions by applying several mobile phases, flow rates, temperatures, and runtimes. The UHPLC method successfully provided more improved data than that achieved by the HPLC method. Indeed, even though carminic acid has shown circa 146% higher resolution with HPLC, UHPLC resulted in an increase of 41-61% resolution and a decrease of 91-422% limit of detection, depending on the dye compound. The optimized method was subsequently assigned to analyse 59 natural reference materials, in which 85 different components were ascribed with different physicochemical properties, in order to create a spectral database for future characterization of dyes in cultural heritage objects. The majority of these reference samples could be successfully distinguished with one single method through the examination of these compounds' retention times and their spectra acquired with a photodiode array detector. These results demonstrate that UHPLC analyses are extremely valuable for the acquisition of more precise chromatographic information concerning natural dyes with complex mixtures of different and/or closely related physicochemical properties, essential for distinguishing similar species of plants and animals used to colour cultural heritage objects.

Historical and archaeological textiles: an insight on degradation products of wool and silk yarns

The characterisation of micro-samples from works of art and archaeological residues is a particularly complex task, due to the fact that only a relatively low amount of material is available for sampling, and compounds both derived from the target analytes and the matrix can be simultaneously present. Thus, sensitive, selective and reliable analytical procedures need to be developed. This paper presents the optimisation of an instrumental procedure based on liquid chromatography with mass spectrometric detection, which allows for determining selected analytes (anthraquinones, tannins, flavonoids), along with their known degradation products: phenolic acids. The instrumental parameters were optimised in terms of selecting the best ionisation source (APCI and ESI were compared), choosing the compound-dependant MS parameters and enhancing selectivity and sensitivity (SIM and MRM analyses were compared). The proposed procedure proved to be sensitive and selective, with limits of detection (0.4-20 ng/mL). The analytical procedure was validated by characterising reference materials, i.e. dyed and undyed woollen and silk yarns, both freshly prepared and artificially aged. Particularly, the study focused on the determination of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, and on the correlation between its relative amounts with respect to ageing time. The optimised procedure was also applied to historical samples and proved fundamental in unravelling the complex composition of black dyed yarns collected from a medieval tapestry. The much degraded yarns were dyed with a tannin based dye, extracted from gallnuts, alder bark or sumac; the less degraded ones were coloured by superimposing colours with cochineal, madder, weld and indigo dye baths, and eventually by adding gallo-tannins as well.

HPLC-DAD-MS analysis of dyes identified in textiles from Mount Athos

Organic colorants contained in 30 textiles (16th to early 20th century) from the monastery of Simonos Petra (Mount Athos) have been investigated using high-performance liquid chromatography equipped with diode-array detection and mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS). The components of natural dyes identified in samples treated by the standard HCl dyestuff extraction method were: alizarin, apigenin, butein, carminic acid, chrysoeriol, dcII, dcIV, dcVII, ellagic acid, emodin, fisetin, flavokermesic acid, fustin, genistein, haematein derivative (Hae'), indigotin, indirubin, isoliquiritigenin, isorhamnetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, kermesic acid, luteolin, naringenin, purpurin, quercetin, rhamnazin, rhamnetin, sulfuretin, and type B and type C compounds (last two are markers for Caesalpinia trees). Early, semi-synthetic dyes, for example indigo carmine, fuchsin components, and rhodamine B were identified in objects dated late 19th to early 20th century. A dyestuff extraction method which involves use of TFA, instead of HCl, was applied to selected historical samples, showing that the mild method enables efficient extraction of weld (Reseda luteola L.) and dyer's broom (Genista tinctoria L.) glycosides. The marker compound (Hae') for logwood (Haematoxylum campechianum L.) identification after treatment with HCl was investigated by liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS) in negative electrospray ionization (LC-MS-ESI(-)) mode. LC-MS in negative atmospheric pressure chemical ionization (LC-MS-APCI(-)) mode was used, probably for the first time, to investigate cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa) samples. Positive electrospray ionization (LC-MS-ESI(+)) mode was used for identification of fuchsin components. Detailed HPLC-DAD studies were performed on young fustic (Cotinus coggygria Scop.) and Persian berries (Rhamnus trees).

Novel methodology for the extraction and identification of natural dyestuffs in historical textiles by HPLC-UV-Vis-ESI MS. Case study: chasubles from the Wawel Cathedral collection

High-performance liquid chromatography coupled with spectrophotometric and electrospray mass spectrometric detection (HPLC–UV–Vis–ESI MS) was used for characterization of natural dyes present in historical art works. The gradient program was developed for identification of 29 colorants of various polarities. Dual detection system (UV–Vis and ESI MS) allowed differentiation of all compounds, even if they were not completely separated. This enabled examination of more color compounds over a substantially shorter time in comparison with previously recommended methods. Moreover, for extraction of colorants from historical textiles a two-step sequential procedure was proposed, excluding evaporation used in earlier procedures. The developed method was successfully applied to identification of indigotin, carminic, kermesic, flavokermesic, dcII, dcIV, dcVII, and ellagic acids as well as luteolin, apigenin, and genistein in red, violet, and green fibers taken from three selected historical chasubles which belong to the collection of the Wawel Cathedral treasury (Cracow, Poland). Italian textiles from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, of which chasubles were made, were dyed with a limited number of dyestuffs, consistently used for all batches of fabrics. The obtained results also allowed confirmation of the structure of the so-called “dcII” component of cochineal as a C-glucose derivative of flavokermesic acid.