Analysis of natural red dyes (cochineal) in textiles of historical importance using HPLC and multivariate data analysis

Natural colour extraction from horticultural crops, advancements, and applications-a review

The scope for natural colours is increasing because of the awareness of allergic, toxic, and hazardous reactions associated with synthetic dyes. Natural colours are extracted from sources that are naturally available, such as flora, fauna, and minerals. Nature sourced us multiple possibilities of colours with varied shades and hues that are subtle and harmonious when combined. Reasons like the instability of natural colours during industrial processing, seasonal availability of raw materials, fading of colour over time, cost of the benefit, and struggles in attaining sustainability have reduced commercialisation success as synthetic colours. Some plants that yield natural colours are also included in crop rotation practice. Natural dye extraction is a source of employment for the countrified subdivisions of poor developing countries. Indigenous technologies on natural colour extraction are available and have been practiced over the years; due to a lack of documentation and information on colour-yielding plants or products from horticultural crops, and their extraction methods, the use of natural colours is diminishing day by day. Even in recent years, emerging techniques have been adopted in research and development, and the information has not been brought together for the use of industries and allied sectors. Several modern approaches, such as Ultrasonication, microwave, enzymatic, supercritical, pressurised liquid extraction, etc., have proven to give better results in extracting natural colours. Thereby, having instantaneous information will help to go green, be eco-friendly, and effectively utilise all the resources without compromising industrial benefits. Reviewing the availability of natural colours from horticultural crops, classifications, recent trends in their extraction process, and applications in various fields will help achieve the above.

An optimised small-scale sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis using UHPLC-PDA applied to Scottish and English Renaissance embroidery

A sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis requiring less sample has been developed. Samples as small as 0.01 ± 0.005 mg have been successfully analysed and high percentage recoveries (>85%), more automation and shorter preparation time have been achieved using filtration by centrifugation and only one manual transfer. The optimised workflow based on 96 well plates together with the shorter UHPLC method developed makes dye analysis data collection faster from unprocessed sample to result, facilitating the creation of larger datasets and application of chemometric approaches. The method was evaluated on 85 samples from 12 dye sources (RSD < 5.1%, n = 5) as well as 22 samples from a 17^th century embroidered stomacher from the National Museums Scotland (NMS) collection.

Spectral characterisation of a traditional Mesoamerican dye: relationship between in situ identification on the 16th century Codex Borbonicus manuscript and composition of Justicia spicigera plant extract

Characterisation of vegetal colourants in manuscripts is still a challenging task. Their identification using non-invasive techniques - since sampling is rarely possible - is valid only if there is evidence that the recorded signals are generated by compounds specific to the plant species. Otherwise, more extensive chemical characterisations are required to relate the non-invasive technique signals to the chemical composition of the dye extract and thus avoid misidentification. The case study of a traditional Mesoamerican dye found in the Codex Borbonicus is reported herein. The non-invasive identification of the colourant plant source and chemical characterisation of the coloured molecules were carried out through a multi-analytical technique approach. In situ Raman and UV-Vis emission fluorescence signals suggested the use of Justicia spicigera leaves to produce the brown paint layers of the manuscript. Analysis of the plant extract by liquid chromatography revealed that two compounds are mostly responsible for the colour, and these compounds were successfully isolated. Both contribute to the Raman spectra while only one of them is mainly responsible for the fluorescence recorded on Codex Borbonicus.

Analysis of Natural Dyes from Historical Objects by High Performance Liquid Chromatography and Electromigration Techniques

Based on material published between 1989 and 2018 in this paper high performance liquid chromatography and electromigration techniques used in studies of natural dyes that can be found in historical objects are rewieved. Different aspects of analysis have been discussed: the stationary and mobile phase, the choice of sample solvent, methods of extraction and detection, including sensitivity parameters, such as LOD and/or LOQ. The discussed dyes have been divided into three categories (a) red antraquinone dyes along with dyes extracted from bark and tree juices, (b) yellow flavonoid dyes and saffron and (c) blue indigoid dyes. The main markers (chromophores or auxochromes) typical for each dye source were presented which allows to identify specific species of source plants and animals. The first part of the study involved the analysis of most critical findings when it comes to HPLC or represented an significant analytical approach. The second part of the study is focused on different aspects of electromigration techniques application in analysis of natural dyes with special attention paid on such parameters as the running buffer/mobile phase composition and sample solvent. Detection methods along with LOD and LOQ comparison in HPLC and electromigration techniques were also discussed. Methods of sample preparation, such as hydrolysis and extraction, used in HPLC and electromigration techniques were also briefly discussed.

The importance of nutrient hotspots for grazing ungulates in a Miombo ecosystem, Tanzania

While movement patterns of grazing ungulates are strongly dependent on forage quality their use of nutrient hotspots such as termite mounds or grazing lawns has rarely been quantified, especially in savanna ecosystems where soil-nutrient quality is low. Additionally, few experiments have been conducted to determine the role of termite mound- and grazing lawn-derived soils in improving forage quality in the field. We studied wild ungulate grazing activities around ten termite mounds, six grazing lawns and their respective control sites in a Miombo system of Issa Valley, western Tanzania, in the same system. We used indirect observations (i.e., dung, tracks) to identify seasonal and spatial variations in habitat use of various wild mammalian grazers. Grazer visitation rates were nine and three times higher on termite mounds and grazing lawns, respectively, compared to control sites. During the rainy season, termite mounds were more frequently used than grazing lawns while the latter were used more often during the dry season. In an additional pot experiment with soils derived from different areas, we found that Cynodon dactylon in termite mound-derived soils had twice as high Nitrogen and Phosphorous contents and biomass compared to grasses planted in grazing lawn soils and control site soils. We highlight that both termite mounds and grazing lawns play a significant role in influencing seasonal nutrient dynamics, forage nutrient quality, habitat selectivity, and, hence, grazing activities and movement patterns of wild ungulate grazers in savannas. We conclude that termite mounds and grazing lawns are important for habitat heterogeneity in otherwise nutrient–poor savanna systems.

Photophysics and photochemistry of carminic acid and related natural pigments

Carminic acid (CA) and other related compounds have been widely used as dyes in cultural heritage, cosmetics and the food industry.

Spiroketalcarminic Acid, a Novel Minor Anthraquinone Pigment in Cochineal Extract Used in Food Additives

Cochineal extract prepared from the scale insect Dactylopus coccus (American cochineal) has been used as a natural red dye for food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals. The major pigment in cochineal extract is carminic acid (CA), an anthraquinone glucoside, and several minor pigments have been previously reported. Our investigation aimed at establishing the safety of cochineal dye products using ultra performance liquid chromatography-photo diode array-electrospray ionization-time of flight (UPLC-PDA-ESI-TOF)/MS found an unknown minor pigment, spiroketalcarminic acid (1), in three commercial cochineal extract samples; cochineal extract used in food additives, carmine that is an aluminum salt of cochineal extract used as natural dye, and a research reagent of CA. The purification of 1 from cochineal extract involved sequential chromatographic techniques, including preparative reversed-phase HPLC. Two dimensional (2D)-NMR and mass analyses established the structure of 1 to be a novel anthraquinone with an unusual 6,5-spiroketal system instead of the C-glucosyl moiety of CA. The absolute stereochemistry of the spiroketal moiety in 1 was determined by nuclear Overhauser effect spectroscopy (NOESY) correlations and optical rotation. No data corresponding to 1 had previously been reported for extracts of dried cochineal insects and traditional art products dyed with cochineal extract, indicating that 1 is likely produced during the preparation of commercial cochineal extract.

Identification of natural red and purple dyes on textiles by Fiber-optics Reflectance Spectroscopy

Understanding dye chemistry and dye processes is an important issue for studies of cultural heritage collections and science conservation. Fiber Optics Reflectance Spectroscopy (FORS) is a powerful technique, which allows preliminary dye identification, causing no damage or mechanical stress on the artworks subjected to analysis. Some information related to specific light scattering and absorption can be obtained in the UV-visible and infrared range (300-1400nm) and it is possible to discriminate the kind of support fiber in the near infrared region (1000-2500nm). The main spectral features of natural dye fibers samples, such as reflection maxima, inflection points and reflection minima, can be used in the differentiation of various red natural dyes. In this work, a set of dyed references were manufactured following Mexican recipes with red dyes (cochineal and brazilwood) in order to determine the characteristic FORS spectral features of fresh and aged dyed fibers for their identification in historical pieces. Based on these results, twenty-nine indigenous textiles belonging to the National Commission for the Development of Indigenous People of Mexico were studied. Cochineal and brazilwood were successfully identified by FORS in several pieces, as well as the mixture of cochineal and indigo for purple color.

Identification of Polish cochineal (Porphyrophora polonica L.) in historical textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with spectrophotometric and tandem mass spectrometric detection

The present work reports a method for identification of Polish cochineal (Porphyrophora polonica L.) in historical fabrics by the use of high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array and tandem mass spectrometric detection with electrospray ionization (HPLC-DAD-ESI MS/MS). This hyphened technique allows detection and identification of 16 new minor colorants present in the discussed scale insect (including two previously observed by Wouters and Verhecken (Ann Soc Entomol Fr. 1989;25:393-410), but specified only as compounds of unknown structures) that do not occur (e.g., in American cochineal). The MS/MS experiments, complemented with UV-VIS data, enable identification of mono- and di-, C- and O-hexosides of kermesic and flavokermesic acids or their derivatives. The present paper introduces a fingerprint of color compounds present in Polish cochineal and defines them, particularly pp6 (ppI, O-hexoside of flavokermesic acid), as its markers allow distinguishing of Polish-cochineal reds from the American ones. Usefulness of the selected set of markers for identification of Polish cochineal has been demonstrated in the examination of textiles from the collection of the National Museum in Warsaw using the multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) method, originally elaborated on the basis of this study.

Investigation of crimson-dyed fibres for a new approach on the characterization of cochineal and kermes dyes in historical textiles

The colorant behaviour of cochineal and kermes insect dyes in 141 experimentally-dyed and 28 artificially-aged samples of silk and wool was investigated using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography coupled to photodiode array detector (UHPLC-PDA), liquid chromatography electrospray ionisation mass spectrometry (LC-ESI-MS) and image scanning electron microscopy - energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX). Partial-least squares discriminant analysis (PLS-DA) was then used to model the acquired UHPLC-PDA data and assess the possibility of discriminating cochineal insect species, as well as their correspondent dyed and aged reference fibres. The resulting models helped to characterize a set of 117 red samples from 95 historical textiles, in which UHPLC-PDA analyses have reported the presence of cochineal and kermes insect dyes. Analytical investigation of the experimentally-dyed and artificially-aged fibres has demonstrated that the ratio of compounds in the insects dye composition can change, depending on the dyeing conditions applied and the type of fibres used. Similarities were observed when comparing the UHPLC-MS and SEM-EDX results from the dyed and aged references with the historical samples. This was verified with PLS-DA models of the chromatographic data, facilitating the classification of the cochineal species present in the historical samples. The majority of these samples were identified to contain American cochineal, which is in agreement with historical and dye identification literature that describe the impact of this dyestuff into European and Asian dyeing practices, after the Iberian Expansion in the 16th century. The analytical results emphasize the importance of using statistical data interpretation for the discrimination of cochineal dyes, besides qualitative and quantitative evaluation of chromatograms. Hence, the combination of UHPLC-PDA with a statistical classification method, such as PLS-DA, has been demonstrated to be an advisable approach in future investigations to assess closely related species of natural dyes in historical textile samples. This is particularly important when aiming to achieve more accurate interpretations about the history of works of art, or the application of natural dyes in old textile production.

Identification of unknown colorants in pre-Columbian textiles dyed with American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa) using high-performance liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry

The present study concerns the identification of nine thus-far unknown derivatives of carminic acid extracted from pre-Columbian Peruvian textiles dyed with American cochineal—these derivatives are not found in commercially available preparations of the dye. These compounds probably represent a unique fingerprint of dyed textiles from this region, as they have never been reported to occur in other fabrics of historical value. They were separated by reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (phenyl column) and detected using a UV/vis spectrophotometer and two tandem mass spectrometers. Peaks observed in chromatograms registered at 450 and 500 nm were further identified by ESI QqQ MS (mainly in the negative ion mode), supported by high-resolution ESI QIT/ToF MS data. The characteristic fragmentation pathways of isolated carminic acid and its derivatives provided additional information concerning lost neutrals and thus the functional groups and substituents present in the parent molecules. This information mainly related to multiple cleavages of the hexoside moiety (initially cross-ring cleavage), which are characteristic of C-glucosides (loss of 90, 120, and 148 Da). This is accompanied by the elimination of H₂O as well as the further loss of 60 Da from the hexoside moiety. Moreover, other losses from the carbonyl groups (44 Da from CO₂ loss, 62 Da from ethylene glycol loss, 32 Da from O₂ loss, 138 Da from hydroxybenzoic acid, and 120 Da from oxomethylene cyclohexadienone) provided more specific information about structures of the identified derivatives of carminic acid.

Identification of Dactylopius cochineal species with high-performance liquid chromatography and multivariate data analysis

Identification of American cochineal species (Dactylopius genus) can provide important information for the study of historical works of art, entomology, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and foods. In this study, validated species of Dactylopius, including the domesticated cochineal D. coccus, were analysed by high-performance liquid chromatography with a diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) and submitted to multivariate data analysis, in order to discriminate the species and hence construct a reference library for a wide range of applications. Principal components analysis (PCA) and partial least squares discriminant analysis (PLSDA) models successfully provided accurate species classifications. This library was then applied to the identification of 72 historical insect specimens of unidentified species, mostly dating from the 19th century, and belonging to the Economic Botany Collection, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, England. With this approach it was possible to identify anomalies in how insects were labelled historically, as several of them were revealed not to be cochineal. Nevertheless, more than 85% of the collection was determined to be species of Dactylopius and the majority of the specimens were identified as D. coccus. These results have shown that HPLC-DAD, in combination with suitable chemometric methods, is a powerful approach for discriminating related cochineal species.

Perkin's and Caro's mauveine in Queen Victoria's lilac postage stamps: a chemical analysis

Mauveine, a chemical icon, is no longer commercially available. If nowadays one wanted to have a sample of the original Perkin, or Caro, mauveine, and see its colour, where would one find it? The answer is on UK Victorian 6d postage stamps from 1867-1880. This was found from a comparison with historical samples of mauveine, from both William Perkin and a Heinrich Caro sample (here analysed for the first time). These have distinctly different compositions and this was used to identify the origin of mauveine in the postage stamps, with evidence found for mauveine made by both Perkin's and Caro's synthesis.

Evaluation between ultrahigh pressure liquid chromatography and high-performance liquid chromatography analytical methods for characterizing natural dyestuffs

An evaluation was undertaken of ultrahigh pressure liquid chromatography (UHPLC) in comparison to high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) for characterizing natural dyes in cultural heritage objects. A new UHPLC method was optimized by testing several analytical parameters adapted from prior UHPLC studies developed in diverse fields of research. Different gradient elution programs were tested on seven UHPLC columns with different dimensions and stationary phase compositions by applying several mobile phases, flow rates, temperatures, and runtimes. The UHPLC method successfully provided more improved data than that achieved by the HPLC method. Indeed, even though carminic acid has shown circa 146% higher resolution with HPLC, UHPLC resulted in an increase of 41-61% resolution and a decrease of 91-422% limit of detection, depending on the dye compound. The optimized method was subsequently assigned to analyse 59 natural reference materials, in which 85 different components were ascribed with different physicochemical properties, in order to create a spectral database for future characterization of dyes in cultural heritage objects. The majority of these reference samples could be successfully distinguished with one single method through the examination of these compounds' retention times and their spectra acquired with a photodiode array detector. These results demonstrate that UHPLC analyses are extremely valuable for the acquisition of more precise chromatographic information concerning natural dyes with complex mixtures of different and/or closely related physicochemical properties, essential for distinguishing similar species of plants and animals used to colour cultural heritage objects.