Melanogenesis inhibitory effect of aerial part of Pueraria thunbergiana in vitro and in vivo

Syringaresinol Attenuates α-Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone-Induced Reactive Oxygen Species Generation and Melanogenesis

Ginseng has been utilized for centuries in both the medicinal and cosmetic realms. Recent studies have actively investigated the biological activity of ginseng berry and its constituents. (+)-Syringaresinol [(+)-SYR], an active component of ginseng berry, has been demonstrated to have beneficial effects on the skin, but its potential impact on skin pigmentation has not been fully explored. Here, the antioxidant and anti-pigmentary activity of (+)-SYR were evaluated in B16F10 murine melanoma cells and in an artificial human pigmented skin model, Melanoderm™. A real-time PCR, Western blotting, immunofluorescence staining, and histochemistry staining were conducted to confirm the effects of (+)-SYR on pigmentation. (+)-SYR reduced melanogenesis and dendrite elongation in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-primed B16F10 cells with low cytotoxicity. (+)-SYR suppressed the expression of melanogenic genes, namely tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2). Notably, (+)-SYR attenuated α-MSH-induced cytosolic and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, which was attributable at least in part to the suppression of NADPH oxidase-4 (NOX 4) expression. Finally, the brightening activities of (+)-SYR were verified using Melanoderm™, underscoring the potential of ginseng berry and (+)-SYR as functional ingredients in skin-brightening cosmetics.

Discovery of amphotericin B, an antifungal drug as tyrosinase inhibitor with potent anti-melanogenic activity

Tyrosinase, a rate-limiting enzyme for melanin production, has been the most efficient target for the development of depigmenting agents. Although hydroquinone, kojic acid, and arbutin are the most well-known tyrosinase inhibitors, their adverse effects are inevitable. In the present study, an in silico drug repositioning combined with experimental validation was performed to search for novel potent tyrosinase inhibitors. Docking-based virtual screening results revealed that, among the 3210 FDA-approved drugs available in the ZINC database, amphotericin B, an antifungal drug exhibited the highest binding efficiency against human tyrosinase. Results from tyrosinase inhibition assay demonstrated that amphotericin B could inhibit the activity of mushroom and cellular tyrosinases, especially from MNT-1 human melanoma cells. Molecular modeling results revealed that amphotericin B/human tyrosinase complex exhibited high stability in an aqueous environment. Melanin assay results demonstrated that amphotericin B significantly suppressed melanin production in α-MSH-induced B16F10 murine melanoma and MNT-1 human melanoma cell lines better than the known inhibitor, kojic acid. Mechanistically, amphotericin B treatment significantly activated ERK and Akt signaling pathways, resulting in the decreased expression of MITF and tyrosinase. The obtained results may pursue pre-clinical and clinical studies to examine the possibility of using amphotericin B as an alternative treatment for hyperpigmentation disorders.

Plants as Modulators of Melanogenesis: Role of Extracts, Pure Compounds and Patented Compositions in Therapy of Pigmentation Disorders

The kingdom of plants as a "green biofabric" of valuable bioactive molecules has long been used in many ailments. Currently, extracts and pure compounds of plant origin are used to aid in pigmentation skin problems by influencing the process of melanogenesis. Melanin is a very important pigment that protects human skin against ultraviolet radiation and oxidative stress. It is produced by a complex process called melanogenesis. However, disturbances in the melanogenesis mechanism may increase or decrease the level of melanin and generate essential skin problems, such as hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation. Accordingly, inhibitors or activators of pigment formation are desirable for medical and cosmetic industry. Such properties may be exhibited by molecules of plant origin. Therefore, that literature review presents reports on plant extracts, pure compounds and compositions that may modulate melanin production in living organisms. The potential of plants in the therapy of pigmentation disorders has been highlighted.

Bioassay-Guided Characterization, Antioxidant, Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Photoaging Activities of Pueraria thunbergiana L. Leaf Extracts in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (HaCaT) Cells

Although the roots and flowers of P. thunbergiana are known to have various physiologically active effects, studies on the anti-melanin production and anti-photoaging effects of its leaf extracts and cellular mechanisms are still lacking. In this study, we evaluated the possibility of using Pueraria thunbergiana leaves as a natural material for skin whitening and anti-aging-related functional cosmetics. The 30% ethyl alcohol (EtOH) extract from P. thunbergiana leaves was fractionated using n-hexane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), butanol, and aqueous solution to measure their whitening, and anti-aging effects. The EtOAc fraction contained a high content of phenolic and flavonoids and showed higher 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS) radical scavenging activities than the other fractions. It was also confirmed that the EtOAc fraction markedly inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. In addition, the EtOAc fraction showed a protective effect against ultraviolet B (UVB) in HaCaT cells and increased the collagen synthesis that was decreased due to UVB exposure. Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) activity and MMP-1 protein expression were reduced in human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells. These results indicate that the EtOAc fraction has superior antioxidant activity, anti-melanogenesis, and anti-photoaging effects compared to the other fractions. Therefore, in this study, we confirmed the potential of P. thunbergiana leaf extract as a functional cosmetic ingredient, and it can be used as basic data for the physiological activity of P. thunbergiana leaf extracts.

Potential Beneficial Effects of Sargassum spp. in Skin Aging

Seaweeds are receiving much attention as a rich source of bioactive compounds with cosmeceutical potential. Recent studies have revealed that Sargassum spp., a genus of brown algae in the family Sargassaceae, has multiple functions in preventing and improving skin aging. Sargassum spp. contains many bioactive compounds, such as fucoidan, fucoxanthin, terpenoids, flavonoids, and meroterpenoids. These Sargassum spp. extracts and derivative compounds have excellent potential for skincare, as they exhibit skin health-promoting properties, including antioxidants, anti-inflammation, whitening, skin barrier repair, and moisturizing. Therefore, searching for bioactive compounds in marine resources such as Sargassum spp. could be an attractive approach to preventing and improving skin aging. The current review focused on the various biological abilities of Sargassum extracts or derived compounds for anti-skin aging.

The Modulation of Melanogenesis in B16 Cells Upon Treatment with Plant Extracts and Isolated Plant Compounds

Plants are a rich source of secondary metabolites that exhibit numerous desired properties. The compounds may influence the biology of melanocytes, pigment cells that produce melanin, by modulating numerous signaling pathways, including cAMP/PKA, MAPKs and PI3K/AKT. Its downstream target is microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, responsible for the expression of the tyrosinase enzyme, which plays a major role in melanogenesis. Therefore, this literature review aims to provide insights related to melanogenesis modulation mechanisms of plant extracts and isolated plant compounds in B16 cells. Database searches were conducted using online-based library search instruments from 2012 to 2022, such as NCBI-PubMed and Google Scholar. Upregulation or downregulation of signaling pathways by phytochemicals can influence skin hypo- and hyperpigmentation by changing the level of melanin production, which may pose a significant cosmetic issue. Therefore, plant extracts or isolated plant compounds may be used in the therapy of pigmentation disorders.

Mitigative Effects of PFF-A Isolated from Ecklonia cava on Pigmentation in a Zebrafish Model and Melanogenesis in B16F10 Cells

Melanin synthesis is a defense mechanism that prevents skin damage, but excessive accumulation of melanin occurs in the skin in various reactions such as pigmentation, lentigines, and freckles. Although anti-melanogenic effects have been demonstrated for various naturally occurring marine products that inhibit and control tyrosinase activity, most studies have not been extended to in vivo applications. Phlorofucofuroeckol-A (PFF-A, 12.5-100 µM) isolated from Ecklonia cava has previously been shown to have tyrosinase-mitigative effects in B16F10 cells, but it has not been evaluated in an in vivo model, and its underlying mechanism for anti-melanogenic effects has not been studied. In the present study, we evaluated the safety and efficacy of PFF-A for anti-melanogenic effects in an in vivo model. We selected low doses of PFF-A (1.5-15 nM) and investigated their mitigative effects on pigmentation stimulated by α-MSH in vivo and their related-mechanism in an in vitro model. The findings suggest that low-dose PFF-A derived from E. cava suppresses pigmentation in vivo and melanogenesis in vitro. Therefore, this study presents the possibility that PFF-A could be utilized as a new anti-melanogenic agent in the cosmeceutical industries.

Sargahydroquinoic Acid Suppresses Hyperpigmentation by cAMP and ERK1/2-Mediated Downregulation of MITF in α-MSH-Stimulated B16F10 Cells

Hyperpigmentation diseases of the skin require topical treatment with depigmenting agents. We investigated the hypopigmented mechanisms of sargahydroquinoic acid (SHQA) in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cells. SHQA reduced cellular tyrosinase (TYR) activity and melanin content in a concentration-dependent manner and attenuated the expression of TYR and tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), along with their transcriptional regulator, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). SHQA also suppressed α-MSH-induced cellular production of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP), which inhibited protein kinase A (PKA)-dependent cAMP-responsive element-binding protein (CREB) activation. Docking simulation data showed a potential binding affinity of SHQA to the regulatory subunit RIIβ of PKA, which may also adversely affect PKA and CREB activation. Moreover, SHQA activated ERK1/2 signaling in B16F10 cells, stimulating the proteasomal degradation of MITF. These data suggest that SHQA ameliorated hyperpigmentation in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells by downregulating MITF via PKA inactivation and ERK1/2 phosphorylation, indicating that SHQA is a potent therapeutic agent against skin hyperpigmentation disorders.

Skin hyperpigmentation and its treatment with herbs: an alternative method

Background

With an increasing number of patients, those who are facing a lot of skin-related complaints, often referred to as skin of pigmentation patients, are on the rise. Among all the most common complaints in patients with skin of color is hyperpigmentation. So, there is need of herbal formulation for treatment of hyperpigmentation.

Main body

This review article addresses the different types of hyperpigmentation, causes, and its treatment with herbs for the management of the skin hyperpigmentation. As uneven pigmentation of skin or hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition, which occurs when the skin produces more melanin. This can make spots or patches of skin appear darker than surrounding areas. Some forms of hyperpigmentation with post-inflammatory, melasma, and sun spots are more likely to affect areas of face, arms, and legs due to sun exposure and injury. Although the availability of multiple treatments for the condition which leads to some adverse effects, hyperpigmentation continues to present skin care management challenges for dermatologists.

Conclusion

Some plants and phytoconstituents, e.g., Azadirachta indica, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Panax ginseng and genistein, ellagic acids, quercetin, are very useful in herbal cosmetic as anti-hyperpigmentry agents in cosmetic industries. Some of flavonoids and triterpenoids present in plants also show their effect as antioxidant and skin whitening agents. It is expected that this review will compile and improve the existing knowledge on the potential utilization of herbs for the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation.

Anti-Pigmentary Natural Compounds and Their Mode of Action

Hyper-activated melanocytes are the major cause of skin hyper-pigmentary disorders, such as freckles and melasma. Increasing efforts have been made to search for materials with depigmenting activity to develop functional cosmetics. As a result, numerous materials have been reported to have depigmenting activity but some of them are known to cause unwanted side effects. Consequently, anti-pigmentary natural compounds without concern of toxicity are in great demand. Virtually all sorts of natural sources have been investigated to find anti-pigmentary natural compounds. This review summarizes recently reported anti-pigmentary natural compounds and their mode of action from the ocean, plants, and bacteria.

Determination of Cytotoxic Activity of Selected Isoquinoline Alkaloids and Plant Extracts Obtained from Various Parts of Mahonia aquifolium Collected in Various Vegetation Seasons

Melanoma is a serious form of skin cancer that begins in cells known as melanocytes. While it is less common than the other forms of skin cancer, melanoma is more dangerous because of its ability to spread to other organs more rapidly if it is not treated at an early stage. The number of people diagnosed with melanoma has increased over the last few decades. The most widely used treatments include surgery, chemotherapy, and radiation therapy. The search for new drugs to treat various cancers is one of the most important challenges of modern scientific research. Some isoquinoline alkaloids found in different plant species have strong cytotoxic effects on various cancer cells. We tested the effect of isoquinoline alkaloids and extracts obtained from various parts of Mahonia aquifolium collected in various vegetation seasons on human melanoma cancer cells and our data indicated that investigated extract induced significant reduction in cell viability of Human malignant melanoma cells (A375), human Caucasian malignant melanoma cell line (G361), and human malignant melanoma cell line (SKMEL3 cancer cell lines in a dose- and time-dependent manner. Differences in cytotoxic activity were observed for extracts obtained from various parts of Mahonia aquifolium. Significant differences were also obtained in the alkaloids content and cytotoxic activity of the extracts depending on the season of collection of plant material. Our investigations exhibit that these plant extracts can be recommended for further in vivo experiments in order to confirm the possibility of their use in the treatment of human melanomas.

Neobavaisoflavone Inhibits Melanogenesis through the Regulation of Akt/GSK-3β and MEK/ERK Pathways in B16F10 Cells and a Reconstructed Human 3D Skin Model

Previous studies have confirmed the anti-melanogenic effect of the aerial part of Pueraria lobata, however, due to its inherent color, P. lobata has limited commercial use. In this study, an extract (GALM-DC) of the aerial part of P. lobata having improved color by the use of activated carbon was obtained. Furthermore, the active compound neobavaisoflavone (NBI) was identified from GALM-DC. The effect of NBI on melanogenesis, tyrosinase activity, α-glucosidase activity, and mechanism of action in melanocytes was investigated. Tyrosinase activity, melanin contents and the expression of melanin-related genes and proteins were determined in B16F10 cells. NBI reduced melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity. Furthermore, NBI treatment reduced the mRNA and protein expression levels of MITF, TRP-1, and tyrosinase. NBI also works by phosphorylating and activating proteins that inhibit melanogenesis, such as GSK3β and ERK. Specific inhibitors of Akt/GSK-3β (LY294002) and MEK/ERK (PD98059) signaling prevented the inhibition of melanogenesis by NBI. NBI inhibited melanin production through the regulation of MEK/ERK and Akt/GSK-3β signaling pathways in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. NBI suppresses tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis through inhibition of α-glucosidase activity. Besides, NBI significantly reduced melanogenesis in a reconstructed human 3D skin model. In conclusion, these results suggest that NBI has potential as a skin-whitening agent for hyperpigmentation.

p-Hydroxybenzoic Acid β-d-Glucosyl Ester and Cimidahurinine with Antimelanogenesis and Antioxidant Effects from Pyracantha angustifolia via Bioactivity-Guided Fractionation

This study evaluated bioactivity-guided fractionation as a means to identify therapeutic phytochemicals from Pyracantha angustifolia that can attenuate melanogenesis and oxidation. Seven compounds with inhibitory effects on melanin production and tyrosinase (TYR) activity, and ABTS and DPPH radical-scavenging activities, which have not been reported as whitening materials, were isolated from the n-butanol fraction from P. angustifolia leaves (PAL). Among the seven compounds, p-hydroxybenzoic acid β-d-glucosylester (HG), and cimidahurinine (CH) had strong inhibitory effects on melanin production and TYR activity, as well as ABTS and DPPH radical-scavenging activities. Western blot analysis showed that HG and CH suppressed tyrosinase-related protein (TYRP)-1 and TYRP-2 expression. Moreover, HG and CH inhibited reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in tert-butyl hydroperoxide (t-BHP)-treated B16F10 cells. These results suggest that P. angustifolia containing active compounds, such as HG and CH, is a potent therapeutic candidate for the development of hypopigmenting agents.

Anti-Melanogenic Effect of Ethanolic Extract of Sorghum bicolor on IBMX-Induced Melanogenesis in B16/F10 Melanoma Cells

To evaluate possibility as a skin whitening agent of Sorghum bicolor (S. bicolor), its antioxidant activity and anti-melanogenic effect on 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX)-induced melanogenesis in B16/F10 melanoma cells were investigated. The result of total phenolic contents (TPC) indicated that 60% ethanol extract of S. bicolor (ESB) has the highest contents than other ethanol extracts. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using the 2,2'-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazolin-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS)/1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activities and malondialdehyde (MDA) inhibitory effect. These results showed ESB has significant antioxidant activities. Inhibitory effect against tyrosinase was also assessed using L-tyrosine (IC₅₀ value = 89.25 μg/mL) and 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-DOPA) as substrates. In addition, ESB treatment effectively inhibited melanin production in IBMX-induced B16/F10 melanoma cells. To confirm the mechanism on anti-melanogenic effect of ESB, we examined melanogenesis-related proteins. ESB downregulated melanogenesis by decreasing expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1. Finally, 9-hydroxyoctadecadienoic acid (9-HODE), 1,3-O-dicaffeoylglycerol and tricin as the main compounds of ESB were analyzed using the ultra-performance liquid chromatography-ion mobility separation-quadrupole time of flight/tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-IMS-QTOF/MS²). These findings suggest that ESB may have physiological potential to be used skin whitening material.

A Promising View of Kudzu Plant, Pueraria montana var. lobata (Willd.) Sanjappa & Pradeep: Flavonoid Phytochemical Compounds, Taxonomic Data, Traditional Uses and Potential Biological Activities for Future Cosmetic Application

Pueraria montana var. lobata is widely known as kudzu especially in Japan, China, Korea, and other Asian countries. This plant is an ingredient for traditional food and an herbal ingredient for traditional medicines, particular in Japan and China. There are a few reports on its cosmetic uses. Interestingly, many phytochemical compounds from this plant have been continuously reported, particularly flavonoid compounds, which are well-known as potential bioactive ingredients for cosmetics. This work aims to illustrate promising views of kudzu plant, focusing on the diversity of flavonoid phytochemical compounds, taxonomic data, traditional uses, and potential biological activities for future cosmetic applications, i.e., antioxidant, antiglycation, skin regeneration, and melanogenesis inhibitory activities.

Advances in the Tyrosinase Inhibitors from Plant Source

Tyrosinase is a multifunctional copper-containing oxidase which catalyses the oxidation of tyrosine to produce melanin. The alteration in melanin biosynthesis occurs in many diseases. The pigment has a protecting role against skin photo-carcinogenesis, but anomalous melanin pigmentation is an aesthetic problem in human beings. Moreover, the formation of neuromelanin in human brain could contribute to the neurodegeneration associated with Parkinson's disease. Finally, tyrosinase is also responsible for undesired browning in fruits and vegetables. These topics encouraged the search for new inhibitors of this enzyme for pharmaceutical, cosmetic and foods industries. This review is to report recent trends in the discovery of tyrosinase inhibitors from plant sources, to provide a rationale for the continued study of natural tyrosinase inhibitors, and to recognise the potential therapeutic rewards associated with the identification of these agents.

The inhibitory effect of silk sericin against ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis and its potential use in cosmeceutics as an anti-hyperpigmentation compound

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced redox imbalance in melanocytes triggers the activation of tyrosinase that results in melanogenesis and its related skin disorders. Supplementation of biological reductants or anti-tyrosinase compounds inhibits such melanogenesis. Silk sericin (SS), a globular protein, is known to possess antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities along with other biological attributes. However, its inhibitory activity against UVR-induced melanogenesis has yet to be explored. In the current study, we have scientifically explored the inhibitory activity of SS against UVR-induced melanogenesis. Anti-tyrosinase activity of SS was assessed using mushroom tyrosinase, showing that Antheraea assamensis sericin (AAS) and Philosamia ricini sericin (PRS) inhibited 50% of its activity. Inhibitory activity of SS against UVR-induced melanogenesis was assessed by measuring the cellular melanin content, intracellular tyrosinase activity, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels in mouse melanoma. SS pretreatment significantly reduced cellular melanin and ROS production in UV irradiated melanocytes compared with SS untreated cells. AAS treatment before UVA or UVB irradiation significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity. Rheological studies showed that the skin care formulation prepared by the addition of AAS to the basic formulation minimally affected its flow properties. Altogether, our results validate that AAS efficiently inhibited UVR-induced melanogenesis and it could be used as a potential antioxidant molecule in skin care cosmeceutics.

Natural Tyrosinase Inhibitors: Role of Herbals in the Treatment of Hyperpigmentary Disorders

Cutaneous pigmentation plays critical role in determining the color of skin along with photo protection of skin from dreadful effects of ultraviolet radiations. Conversely, abnormal accumulation of melanin is responsible for hyper pigmentary disorders such as melasma, senile lentigines and freckles. Because of the visible nature of dermatologic diseases, they have a considerable psychosomatic effect on affected patients. Tyrosinase inhibitors are molecules that interrelate in some way with the enzyme to prevent it from working in the normal manner. Past many decades witnessed the quest for the development of natural tyrosinase inhibitors due to imperative role played by tyrosinase in the process of melanogenesis and fungi or fruit enzymatic browning. Mechanism of pigmentation is characterized by the intact process of the synthesis of specialized black pigment within melanosomes. Melanin is synthesized by a cascade of enzymatic and chemical reactions. For this reason, melanin production is mainly controlled by the expression and activation of tyrosinase. In the current article, we discussed tyrosinase inhibitors from the natural sources, which can be an essential constituent of cosmetics products and depigmenting agents for the treatment of hyperpigmentory disorders.

Fermentation product with new equol-producing Lactobacillus paracasei as a probiotic-like product candidate for prevention of skin and intestinal disorder

BACKGROUND

Equol is a major isoflavone metabolite, and equol-producing bacteria have been isolated and characterized; however, fermentation has been performed with soybean-based products as substrates. Pueraria lobata has been reported as a plant with higher content of isoflavones.

RESULTS

The genome of new equol-producing bacteria, Lactobacillus paracasei JS1, was analyzed. Also, the effect of P. lobata extract fermented with L. paracasei JS1 (FPE) on the skin and intestinal immune response was examined. With gene expression analysis, it was proven that seven skin-related proteins, hyaluronan synthase-1, -2, -3, collagen, elastin, epidermal growth factor, and epidermal growth factor receptor were differentially expressed upon FPE treatment. The messenger RNA expression increased with treatment with the FPE, and a skin moisturizing effect was confirmed by a hematoxylin-eosin staining experiment. In addition, such an experiment showed that proinflammatory cytokines, tumor necrosis factor-α, cyclooxygenase-2, inducible nitric oxide synthase, interleukin-1β, -4, and -6, were reduced in large intestine when treated with FPE.

CONCLUSION

L. paracasei JS1 has the ability to produce equol having beneficial effects on the skin. Moreover, FPE also has an inhibitory effect on inflammation cytokines in the large intestine. Thus, the novel and edible equol-producing L. paracasei JS1 and FPE have thepotential to be developed as nutricosmetic resources. © 2019 Society of Chemical Industry.

Sargaquinoic acid ameliorates hyperpigmentation through cAMP and ERK-mediated downregulation of MITF in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells

Hyperpigmentation disorders of the skin adversely influence the quality of life. We previously demonstrated the hypopigmenting properties of the ethanolic extract from Sargassum serratifolium and identified sargaquinoic acid (SQA) as an active component. The current study aims to investigate the hypopigmenting action of SQA in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cells. SQA attenuated cellular melanin synthesis by inhibiting the expression of the melanogenic enzymes, including tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), and TRP2. SQA also inhibited cellular TYR activity in a dose-dependent manner. Reduced intracellular cAMP accumulation by SQA treatment resulted in the suppressed phosphorylation of cAMP-responsive element-binding protein (CREB), leading to the downregulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. SQA increased the phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK)1/2 and MITF (Ser73), inducing proteasomal degradation of MITF. SQA showed high binding affinity to the cAMP binding domain of PKA; the direct binding of SQA to PKA may exert an additional inhibitory effect on the PKA-dependent CREB activation. Our data demonstrated that SQA suppressed melanin production through the cAMP/CREB- and ERK1/2-mediated downregulation of MITF in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells and SQA has a potential therapeutic agent for the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation disorders.

Hypopigmenting Effects of Brown Algae-Derived Phytochemicals: A Review on Molecular Mechanisms

There is a rapid increase in the demand for natural hypopigmenting agents from marine sources for cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical applications. Currently, marine macroalgae are considered as a safe and effective source of diverse bioactive compounds. Many research groups are exploring marine macroalgae to discover and characterize novel compounds for cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, and pharmaceutical applications. Many types of bioactive secondary metabolites from marine algae, including phlorotannins, sulfated polysaccharides, carotenoids, and meroterpenoids, have already been documented for their potential applications in the pharmaceutical industry. Among these metabolites, phlorotannins from brown algae have been widely screened for their pharmaceutical and hypopigmenting effects. Unfortunately, the majority of these articles did not have detailed investigations on molecular targets, which is critical to fulfilling the criteria for their cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical use. Very recently, a few meroterpenoids have been discovered from Sargassum sp., with the examination of their anti-melanogenic properties and mechanisms. Despite the scarcity of in vivo and clinical investigations of molecular mechanistic events of marine algae-derived hypopigmenting agents, identifying the therapeutic targets and their validation in humans has been a major challenge for future studies. In this review, we focused on available data representing molecular mechanisms underlying hypopigmenting properties of potential marine brown alga-derived compounds.

Skin hyperpigmentation treatment using herbs: A review of clinical evidences

Hyperpigmentation of skin is caused by several factors. UV exposure, in addition to oxidative stress, elevates inflammatory mediators stimulating melanogenesis. Herbal-derived compounds for improving skin lightness are gaining interest as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than fully synthetic products. This review briefly addresses the causes of skin hyperpigmentation and extensively summarizes the status of herbs currently used in skin-lightening cosmetics. The properties of active compounds and their dose rate information are summarized where available, along with human or animal relevant models for activity testing. This review will be of value to cosmetic formulators and dermatologists who are searching for naturally derived ingredients for improving skin lightness, in line with consumer preference and expectations.

The Improvement of Skin Whitening of Phenylethyl Resorcinol by Nanostructured Lipid Carriers

Phenylethyl resorcinol (4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol) (PR) is a new whitening agent that has been found to have the ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity. However, the application of PR is limited by photo instability and poor solubility. PR-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers (PR-NLCs) were prepared by the hot-melted ultrasonic method. Glycerol monostearate and olive oil were selected as the solid lipid and liquid lipid for considering the solubility of PR in liquid lipid and partition coefficient of PR in solid lipid, respectively. The particle size and polydispersity index of PR-NLCs were 57.9 ± 1.3 nm and 0.24 ± 0.01, respectively. The encapsulation efficiency and loading capacity of PR-NLCs were 93.1 ± 4.2% and 8.5 ± 0.4%, respectively. The stability test demonstrated that the incorporation of PR into NLCs conferred excellent physicochemical stability and photo stability for at least three months at 4 °C in the dark and 25 °C under daylight. In vitro release of PR-NLCs revealed a sustained release pattern. Cellular tyrosinase assay showed that PR-NLCs could significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity in melanoma cells, suggesting that NLCs can be used as a biocompatible nanocarrier for the effective delivery of skin whitening agents.

Anti-melanogenic effects of resveratryl triglycolate, a novel hybrid compound derived by esterification of resveratrol with glycolic acid

Resveratrol is known to inhibit cellular melanin synthesis by multiple mechanisms. Glycolic acid (GA) is used in skin care products for its excellent skin penetration. The purpose of this study was to examine the anti-melanogenic effects of resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), a novel hybrid compound of resveratrol and GA, in comparison with resveratrol, GA, resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and arbutin. Resveratrol, RTG, and RTA inhibited the catalytic activity human tyrosinase (TYR) more potently than arbutin or GA did. Their cytotoxic and anti-melanogenic effects were examined using murine melanoma B16/F10 cells and human epidermal melanocytes (HEMs). The cytotoxicity of RTG was similar to that of resveratrol and RTA. RTG at 3-10 μM decreased melanin levels and cellular TYR activities in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16/F10 cells, and L-tyrosine-stimulated HEMs. RTG also suppressed mRNA and protein expression of TYR, tyrosinase-related protein 1, L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine chrome tautomerase, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in HEMs stimulated with L-tyrosine. This study suggests that, like resveratrol and RTA, RTG can attenuate cellular melanin synthesis effectively through the suppression of MITF-dependent expression of melanogenic enzymes and the inhibition of catalytic activity of TYR enzyme. RTG therefore has potential for use as a cosmeceutical ingredient for skin whitening.

Anti-melanogenic effects of Aster spathulifolius extract in UVB-exposed C57BL/6J mice and B16F10 melanoma cells through the regulation of MAPK/ERK and AKT/GSK3β signalling

OBJECTIVES

Pharmacological studies of Aster spathulifolius Maxim(AS) have demonstrated its anti-allergy, anti-viral and anti-obesity effects, however, its anti-melanogenic effects is still unclear. In this study, the effects of AS extract (ASE) on the inhibition of melanin synthesis were investigated in vitro and in vivo.

METHODS

To perform this study, the contents of melanin and tyrosinase activity were analysed in B16F10 melanoma cells. Western blotting was carried out to determine the underlyling mechanism. Additionally, we investigated the effect of this extract on hyperpigmentation in C57bL/6J mice induced by 3, 6 and 9 weeks of UVB irradiation.

KEY FINDINGS

AS extract led to reduced melanin synthesis through the regulation of MITF and its downstream signals. Furthermore, ASE increased the phosphorylation of MAPK/ERK and Akt/GSK3β signalling pathway components. In vivo study, hypopigmentation effects were also observed. The melanocyte activity and the distribution of melanin granules were decreased in UVB-irradiated mice treated with ASE.

CONCLUSIONS

These results suggest that the ASE may be promising as an active anti-melanogenic component, and further investigations should be performed regarding its potential as a whitening agent in the field of cosmetics.

New Whitening Constituents from Taiwan-Native Pyracantha koidzumii: Structures and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Analysis in Human Epidermal Melanocytes

Nontoxic natural products useful in skin care cosmetics are of considerable interest. Tyrosinase is a rate-limiting enzyme for which its inhibitor is useful in developing whitening cosmetics. Pyracantha koidzumii (Hayata) Rehder is an endemic species in Taiwan that exhibits tyrosinase-inhibitory activity. To find new active natural compounds from P. koidzumii, we performed bioguided isolation and studied the related activity in human epidermal melanocytes. In total, 13 compounds were identified from P. koidzumii in the present study, including two new compounds, 3,6-dihydroxy-2,4-dimethoxy-dibenzofuran (9) and 3,4-dihydroxy-5-methoxybiphenyl-2'-O-β-d-glucopyranoside (13), as well as 11 known compounds. The new compound 13 exhibited maximum potency in inhibiting cellular tyrosinase activity, the protein expression of cellular tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2, as well as the mRNA expression of Paired box 3 and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor in a concentration-dependent manner. In the enzyme kinetic assay, the new compound 13 acted as an uncompetitive mixed-type inhibitor against the substrate l-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine and had a Km value against this substrate of 0.262 mM, as calculated using the Lineweaver-Burk plots. Taken together, our findings show compound 13 exhibits tyrosinase inhibition in human melanocytes and compound 13 may be a potential candidate for use in cosmetics.

Cellular Mechanisms of Oxidative Stress and Action in Melanoma

Most melanomas occur on the skin, but a small percentage of these life-threatening cancers affect other parts of the body, such as the eye and mucous membranes, including the mouth. Given that most melanomas are caused by ultraviolet radiation (UV) exposure, close attention has been paid to the impact of oxidative stress on these tumors. The possibility that key epigenetic enzymes cannot act on a DNA altered by oxidative stress has opened new perspectives. Therefore, much attention has been paid to the alteration of DNA methylation by oxidative stress. We review the current evidence about (i) the role of oxidative stress in melanoma initiation and progression; (ii) the mechanisms by which ROS influence the DNA methylation pattern of transformed melanocytes; (iii) the transformative potential of oxidative stress-induced changes in global and/or local gene methylation and expression; (iv) the employment of this epimutation as a biomarker for melanoma diagnosis, prognosis, and drug resistance evaluation; (v) the impact of this new knowledge in clinical practice for melanoma treatment.