Commentary: Facial Aesthetic Dermatological Procedures and Photoprotection in Chinese Populations

Deciphering the role of skin aging in pigmentary disorders

Skin aging is a complex biological process involving intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Skin aging contains alterations at the tissue, cellular, and molecular levels. Currently, there is increasing evidence that skin aging occurs not only in time-dependent chronological aging but also plays a role in skin pigmentary disorders. This review provides an in-depth analysis of the impact of skin aging on different types of pigmentary disorders, including both hyperpigmentation disorders such as melasma and senile lentigo and hypopigmentation disorders such as vitiligo, idiopathic guttate hypomelanosis and graying of hair. In addition, we explore the mechanisms of skin aging on pigmentation regulation and suggest several potential therapeutic approaches for skin aging and aging-related pigmentary disorders.

Awareness of sun exposure risks and photoprotection for preventing pigmentary disorders in Asian populations: Survey results from three Asian countries and expert panel recommendations

BACKGROUND

In this article, we review and discuss the photoprotection behavior of Asians based on the literature, along with a subanalysis of an original online survey, and make recommendations to optimize photoprotection for Asian populations to prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

METHODS

An international panel of eight dermatologists from Asia (China, Korea, Japan, Singapore, Indonesia, and Vietnam) met to discuss sunscreen photoprotection for Asian patients. Additionally, a subanalysis of an online survey by 3000 respondents from three Asian countries (China, Indonesia, and Japan) investigated general public awareness and attitudes to sun exposure.

RESULTS

A pre-meeting survey of the eight experts from Asia showed key concerns of Asian patients consulting dermatologists are pigmentary disorders, especially actinic/senile lentigo, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, vitiligo, and Hori's nevus. The survey subanalysis of participants from China, Indonesia, and Japan with predominantly Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) II to IV revealed that they are particularly concerned about sun exposure causing photoaging and pigmentary disorders. Most of the respondents indicated they have limited knowledge on sunlight radiation and appropriate sunscreen protection factors. Only 22%, 13%, and 3% for China, Indonesia, and Japan, respectively, systematically use multiple protective measures (using sunscreen, avoiding midday sun, staying in the shade, wearing a hat, protective clothing, and sunglasses) when exposed to the sun.

CONCLUSIONS

Further education is needed for Asian populations on the importance of comprehensive daily photoprotection, including broad-spectrum sunscreen, with high UVA and visible light protection, to reduce and prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

Outdoor clinical testing with reference sunscreens to determine differences in skin response between populations of different ethnicity: A combined data analysis from 128 subjects

BACKGROUND

Two previously published clinical studies by our group assessed erythema and pigmentation responses in outdoor conditions with three reference sunscreens, comparing their effectiveness under the full spectrum of natural sunlight. These studies followed an almost identical protocol but were conducted in two different locations and in two ethnic groups: broadly, Chinese (Singapore) and White European (Mauritius). We analysed the data from these two study populations to compare differences in skin response according to ethnicity.

METHODS

The analysis included 128 subjects (53 were Chinese from Singapore and 75 were White European from Mauritius and Singapore). Products used were the reference sunscreens P3 (sun protection factor [SPF] 15), P5 (SPF 30) and P8 (SPF 50+) from ISO norm 24444:2019. Participants were exposed to outdoor sunlight for 2-3 h, depending on baseline ITA. Endpoints were erythema at 24 h: clinical score and colorimetry (Δa*) and pigmentation at 1 week based on colorimetry (ΔL* and ΔITA).

RESULTS

Among those with baseline ITA > 41, there were differences in erythemal response between the Chinese and White European groups, the White European group being more erythematous and also having a higher rate of photoprotection failure particularly at SPFs 15 and 30.

CONCLUSION

Differences in skin response to sun influenced by ethnicity should be taken into account when making recommendations on sun safety.

Clinical Applications of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock®): An Update

Exposure to sun radiation leads to higher risk of sunburn, pigmentation, immunosuppression, photoaging and skin cancer. In addition to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), recent research indicates that infrared radiation (IR) and visible light (VIS) can play an important role in the pathogenesis of some of these processes. Detrimental effects associated with sun exposure are well known, but new studies have shown that DNA damage continues to occur long after exposure to solar radiation has ended. Regarding photoprotection strategies, natural substances are emerging for topical and oral photoprotection. In this sense, Fernblock^®, a standardized aqueous extract of the fern Polypodium Leucotomos (PLE), has been widely administered both topically and orally with a strong safety profile. Thus, this extract has been used extensively in clinical practice, including as a complement to photodynamic therapy (PDT) for treating actinic keratoses (AKs) and field cancerization. It has also been used to treat skin diseases such as photodermatoses, photoaggravated inflammatory conditions and pigmentary disorders. This review examines the most recent developments in the clinical application of Fernblock^® and assesses how newly investigated action mechanisms may influence its clinical use.

Sun exposure, a relevant exposome factor in acne patients and how photoprotection can improve outcomes

BACKGROUND

Acne pathophysiology includes a complex interaction among inflammatory mediators, hyperseborrhea, alteration of keratinization and follicular colonization by Propionibacterium acnes.

AIMS

To describe the impact of the exposome on acne and how photoprotection can improve outcomes.

METHODS

A narrative review of the literature was carried out; searches with Google Scholar and Pubmed from January 1992 to November 2022 were performed. The keywords used were "acne," "sunscreens," "photoprotection," "cosmetics," "cosmeceuticals," "pathogenesis," "etiology," "exposome," "sunlight," "stress," "lack of sleep," "diet," "postinflammatory hyperpigmentation," "pollution," "exposome," "ultraviolet radiation," and "visible light."

RESULTS

Environmental factors such as solar radiation, air pollution, tobacco consumption, psychological stress, diverse microorganisms, nutrition, among others, can trigger or worsen acne. Solar radiation can temporarily improve lesions. However, it can induce proinflammatory and profibrotic responses, and produce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and/or post-inflammatory erythema. While photoprotection is widely recommended to acne patients, only four relevant studies were found. Sunscreens can significantly improve symptomatology or enhance treatment and can prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Furthermore, they can provide camouflage and improve quality of life. Based on acne pathogenesis, optimal sunscreens should have emollient, antioxidant and sebum controlling properties.

CONCLUSIONS

The exposome and solar radiation can trigger or worsen acne. UV light can induce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation/erythema, and can initiate flares. The use of specifically formulated sunscreens could enhance adherence to topical or systemic therapy, camouflage lesions (tinted sunscreens), decrease inflammation, and reduce the incidence of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation/erythema.