Pathophysiologic Treatment Approach to Irritant Contact Dermatitis

Towards Optimal pH of the Skin and Topical Formulations: From the Current State of the Art to Tailored Products

Acidic pH of the skin surface has been recognized as a regulating factor for the maintenance of the stratum corneum homeostasis and barrier permeability. The most important functions of acidic pH seem to be related to the keratinocyte differentiation process, the formation and function of epidermal lipids and the corneocyte lipid envelope, the maintenance of the skin microbiome and, consequently, skin disturbances and diseases. As acknowledged extrinsic factors that affect skin pH, topically applied products could contribute to skin health maintenance via skin pH value control. The obtained knowledge on skins’ pH could be used in the formulation of more effective topical products, which would add to the development of the so-called products ‘for skin health maintenance’. There is a high level of agreement that topical products should be acidified and possess pH in the range of 4 to 6. However, formulators, dermatologists and consumers would benefit from some more precise guidance concerning favorable products pH values and the selection of cosmetic ingredients which could be responsible for acidification, together with a more extensive understanding of the mechanisms underlaying the process of skin acidification by topical products.

Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin - Contribution of glycolic acid

OBJECTIVE

The acidic skin pH is one of the regulating factors of skin barrier homeostasis. Topical products as extrinsic factors which influence skin pH could be used for acidification of the skin and consequent beneficial effect. To formulate stabile and safe topical emulsion product with low pH is on-going challenge and areas interesting to explore are related to the effect of acidic products on the skin pH together with development of protocols for these studies. Aim of our work was to investigate formulations of acidic topical products with glycolic acid (GA) stabilized with long chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier, in regard to the specific colloidal structure of the vehicle, together with effect of products with different concentration of acidic active on skin pH.

METHODS

Investigated formulations were basic vehicle and two creams with glycolic acid (concentration 2 and 10 wt%). Microstructure was investigated by polarization microscopy, Raman spectral imaging, thermal analysis and rheological measurements. Effects on the skin were assessed by measurement of biophysical skin parameters in vivo studies (5-hour, 24-hour and 7-days). In vitro screening of antimicrobial activity was performed against bacteria Staphylococcus epidermidis.

RESULTS

Polarization micrographs and Raman images have shown that GA does not disturb the specific colloidal structure. Together with rheological and thermal analysis obtained results have shown that GA in higher concentrations contributes to vehicles' lamellar structure. In 5-hour study the mean values of skin pH ranged from 3.98-4.25 and 3.89-4.10 after application of products with smaller and higher GA concentration. GA samples lowered skin surface pH to 5 and less in 24-hour and 7-day study, with stronger effect of sample with more GA. Sample with 10% of GA had significant inhibitory effect on growth of S. epidermidis in 1:1 concentration.

CONCLUSIONS

Investigated APG emulsifier could be used as a stabilizer for acidic topical products with GA which are characterized by satisfactory safety profile. Topical products induce acidification of the skin after short- and long-term application without barrier impairment or sign of irritation. Acidification of the skin depends on presence of ingredients which are proton donors and their concentrations.

Oleic acid exhibits an expressive anti-inflammatory effect in croton oil-induced irritant contact dermatitis without the occurrence of toxicological effects in mice

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Cutaneous inflammatory diseases, such as irritant contact dermatitis, are usually treated with topical corticosteroids, which cause systemic and local adverse effects limiting their use. Thus, the discovery of new therapeutic alternatives able to effectively treat skin inflammatory disorders, without causing adverse effects, is urgently needed.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To investigate the topical anti-inflammatory effect of oleic acid (OA), a monounsaturated fatty acid, into Pemulen® TR2-based semisolid dosage forms, employing a croton oil-induced irritant contact dermatitis model in mice.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Male Swiss mice were submitted to skin inflammation protocols by acute and repeated applications of croton oil. The anti-inflammatory activity of Pemulen® TR2 hydrogels containing OA was evaluated by assessing oedema, inflammatory cell infiltration, and pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1β levels. The mechanisms of action of OA were evaluated using cytokine IL-1β application or pretreatment with the glucocorticoid antagonist mifepristone. Possible toxic effects of OA were also assessed.

RESULTS

Pemulen® TR2 3% OA inhibited the acute ear oedema [maximal inhibition (I_max) = 76.41 ± 5.69%], similarly to dexamethasone (I_max = 84.94 ± 2.16%), and also inhibited ear oedema after repeated croton oil application with I_max = 85.75 ± 3.08%, similar to dexamethasone (I_max = 81.03 ± 4.66%) on the day 7 of the experiment. Croton oil increased myeloperoxidase activity, which was inhibited by Pemulen® TR2 3% OA (I_max = 71.37 ± 10.97%) and by 0.5% dexamethasone (I_max = 96.31 ± 3.73%). Pemulen® TR2 3% OA also prevented the increase in pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1β levels induced by croton oil (I_max = 94.18 ± 12.03%), similar to 0.5% dexamethasone (I_max = 87.21 ± 10.58%). Besides, both Pemulen® TR2 3% OA and 0.5% dexamethasone inhibited IL-1β-induced ear oedema with an I_max of 80.58 ± 2.45% and 77.46 ± 1.92%, respectively. OA and dexamethasone anti-inflammatory effects were prevented by 100% and 91.43 ± 5.43%, respectively, after pretreatment with mifepristone. No adverse effects were related to Pemulen® TR2 3% OA administration.

CONCLUSIONS

OA demonstrated anti-inflammatory efficacy similar to dexamethasone, clinically used to treat skin inflammatory conditions, without presenting adverse effects.