The real UVB photoprotective efficacy of vegetable oils: in vitro and in vivo studies

The Bioactivity and Physicochemical Properties of Emulsions Based on Tamanu, Moringa, and Inca Inchi Oils

With increasing bacterial resistance to antibiotics, novel strategies for protection against microbial infections are crucial. Emulsions enhance the solubility of natural antibacterial oils and their uptake, making them promising drug delivery systems. However, it is important to find the right emulsifier to ensure that the oil has the right dispersion and does not adversely affect its antibacterial properties. Hence, this study investigated emulsions created from three vegetable oils: moringa oil from Moringa oleifera seeds, inca inchi oil from Plukenetia volubilis seeds, and tamanu oil from the Calophyllum inophyllum fruit. Emulsions were formed using two natural emulsifiers, lecithin and casein, at concentrations of 2.5%, 5%, and 10% (w/w). The study assessed the oil and emulsions' characteristics, including the zeta potential, creaming index, and particle size distribution. The antimicrobial properties of these oils and the most stable emulsions were examined. Gas chromatography was used to analyze the oil compositions. The potential antimicrobial properties of emulsions formulated with natural oils was proved. Particularly noteworthy were emulsions containing a 2.5% inca inchi or tamanu oil, stabilized with casein. The particle size ranged between 100 nm and 900 nm with the average size 300 nm. These emulsions also showed antibacterial activity against selected strains, and the strongest effect was observed for the system with inca inchi oil, which reduced S. epidermidis bacterial activity by more than 60%. Therefore, it can be expected that the completed research will allow the development of antibacterial systems based on inca inchi or tamanu oils for use in the food industry.

Potential of lignin multifunctionality for a sustainable skincare: Impact of emulsification process parameters and oil-phase on the characteristics of O/W Pickering emulsions

Colloidal lignin particles (CLPs) from softwood kraft lignin were evaluated as a multifunctional ingredient to prepare bio-based oil-in-water (O/W) Pickering emulsions. After a preliminary screening, three Pickering emulsions systems were formulated using orange, coconut, and paraffin oils, at varying concentration of CLPs, oil/water ratio, and by applying two-step homogenisation processes (rotor-stator homogenisation followed by ultrasonication). Ultrasonication as a second homogenisation step considerably enhanced the emulsification efficiency, generating emulsions with smaller droplet size and less polydisperse distribution. Furthermore, the effect of ultrasonication on the characteristics of emulsions and the stability of the systems was evaluated over time. The oil content and type, the concentration of CLPs, and the homogenisation methods significantly influenced the characteristics of the emulsions and drop size. Higher concentrations of oil and CLPs favoured the formation of the emulsion and contributed to higher physical stability after 120 days of monitoring. The in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) results demonstrated that the incorporation of natural oils containing phenolic compounds in Pickering formulations improves the SPF value of emulsions, showing an interesting synergic effect between lignin particles and vegetable oils, which was not observed in the case of paraffin oil. Furthermore, the broad-spectrum sun blocker of Pickering emulsions was confirmed by the values of UVA/UVB between 0.74 and 0.90 and C_λ > 380.

Screening for New Cosmeceuticals from Brown Algae Fucus vesiculosus with Antioxidant and Photo-Protecting Properties

Phlorotannins play a role in biological functions to protect the cells against UV and oxidative damage in brown algae. We hypothesized that these compounds can function as photo-protectors and antioxidants in skin care formulations. Two types of extracts (water (FV-WE) and 67% v/v ethanol (FV-EE)) from Fucus vesiculosus were obtained with a phlorotannin content between 7-14% in dry extract. Exposure to sun light during growth was included as a factor on the phlorotannin content but did not influence the phlorotannin content. However, green colored F. vesiculosus had lower total phenolic content (TPC) (FV-WE = 6.9 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 7.8 g GAE 100 g-1 dw) compared to those with a yellow/brownish color (FV-WE = 10.4-13.7 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 11.2-14.0 g GAE 100 g-1 dw). UVA and UVB photo protective capabilities of the extracts through different biological effective protection factors (BEPFs) were evaluated using in vitro methods; the Mansur method for sun protection factor (SPF) and calculation of effective solar absorption radiation (%ESAR) to determine SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the extract and in seaweed enriched lotion. The SPF was negligible, when evaluating FV-WE in lotion (10 and 20% w/w). Moreover, %ESAR of the FV-WE showed SPF and some UVA-PF, but not enough to give sufficient SPF in lotions (10% w/w). It was concluded that the concentration of UV protecting compounds in the extracts was too low to and that further fractionation and purification of phlorotannins is needed to increase the SPF.

EVALUATION OF PLANT-BASED UV FILTERS POTENTIAL IN MODERN CONCEPT VIEW OF SKIN PHOTOPROTECTION

A therapeutic plants potential is based on the pharmacological effects due to their phytochemical profile. Today, scientific interest in botanicals is increasing as a result of recent research that looks at the prospect of using these raw materials for the cosmetic industry as a means to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays.

The aim of the study was to evaluate a potential of plant-based UV-filters in modern concept view of skin photoprotection.

Materials and methods. A systematic literature search was carried out using the electronic information arrays PubMed, Scopus, Google Scholar, eLibrary. The search depth was 10 years (the period from 2010 to 2021). The search was carried out by the following keywords: antioxidants, cosmetics, photoprotection, chemical composition, pharmacological action.

Results. In the paper, modern principles of skin photoprotection based on the use of chemical or physical UV-filters are considered and scientifically substantiated A trend for the use of plant-based materials and their components in the formulation of photoprotectors was notified. That is associated with a wide activity spectrum, the absence of a xenobiotic effect, and a high bioavailability of organic plant compounds.

Conclusion. The data analysis from scientific publications demonstrated a potential photoprotective activity of plant-based biologically active substances due to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-radical effects. The results of the study are a theoretical basis for a further comprehensive experimental study of plant objects in order to obtain a pool of evidence in the field of photoprotection in in vivo experiments.

Are TRPA1 and TRPV1 channel-mediated signalling cascades involved in UVB radiation-induced sunburn?

Burn injuries are underappreciated injuries associated with substantial morbidity and mortality. Overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation has dramatic clinical effects in humans and is a significant public health concern. Although the mechanisms underlying UVB exposure are not fully understood, many studies have made substantial progress in the pathophysiology of sunburn in terms of its molecular aspects in the last few years. It is well established that the transient receptor potential ankyrin 1 (TRPA1), and vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) channels modulate the inflammatory, oxidative, and proliferative processes underlying UVB radiation exposure. However, it is still unknown which mechanisms underlying TRPV1/A1 channel activation are elicited in sunburn induced by UVB radiation. Therefore, in this review, we give an overview of the TRPV1/A1 channel-mediated signalling cascades that may be involved in the pathophysiology of sunburn induced by UVB radiation. These data will undoubtedly help to explain the various features of sunburn and contribute to the development of novel therapeutic approaches to better treat it.

Red Raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) Seed Oil: A Review

Raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil (RSO) is considered as a source of high value bioactive compounds as fatty acids, tocopherols, tocotrienols, carotenoids, flavonoids, phytosterols, antioxidants, monoterpenes and many other chemical constituents. These compounds are appreciated as a source of nutrition for humans, as additives in cosmetic production, has immense therapeutic potential. Raspberry seed oil exerts many pharmacological effects included antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory activity and many other effects. The various databases like PubMed and Science Direct were used to identify, analyze and summarize the research literature on raspberries. This review will highlight recent developments of the chemical constituents and nutraceutical and cosmetical effects of RSO. Practical application: analyzed recent researches and international patents containing raspberry seed oil can help practitioners of various industries create new high-value products.