Determination of phototoxic furanocoumarins in natural cosmetics using SPE with LC-MS

New Insights Concerning Phytophotodermatitis Induced by Phototoxic Plants

The present review explores the underlying mechanisms of phytophotodermatitis, a non-immunologic skin reaction triggered by certain plants followed by exposure to ultraviolet radiation emitted by sunlight. Recent research has advanced our understanding of the pathophysiology of phytophotodermatitis, highlighting the interaction between plant-derived photosensitizing compounds (e.g., furanocoumarins and psoralens) and ultraviolet light leading to skin damage (e.g., erythema, fluid blisters, edema, and hyperpigmentation), identifying these compounds as key contributors to the phototoxic reactions causing phytophotodermatitis. Progress in understanding the molecular pathways involved in the skin's response to these compounds has opened avenues for identifying potential therapeutic targets suitable for the management and prevention of this condition. The review emphasizes the importance of identifying the most common phototoxic plant families (e.g., Apiaceae, Rutaceae, and Moraceae) and plant species (e.g., Heracleum mantegazzianum, Ruta graveolens, Ficus carica, and Pastinaca sativa), as well as the specific phytochemical compounds responsible for inducing phytophototoxicity (e.g., limes containing furocoumarin have been linked to lime-induced photodermatitis), underscoring the significance of recognizing the dangerous plant sources. Moreover, the most used approaches and tests for accurate diagnosis such as patch testing, Wood's lamp examination, or skin biopsy are presented. Additionally, preventive measures such as adequate clothing (e.g., long-sleeved garments and gloves) and treatment strategies based on the current knowledge of phytophotodermatitis including topical and systemic therapies are discussed. Overall, the review consolidates recent findings in the field, covering a diverse array of phototoxic compounds in plants, the mechanisms by which they trigger skin reactions, and the implications for clinical management. By synthesizing these insights, we provide a comprehensive understanding of phytophotodermatitis, providing valuable information for both healthcare professionals and researchers working to address this condition.

Phototoxicity in vitro and safety in vivo of the emulsion photosensitizer based on furanocoumarins of Heracleum sosnowskyi

The use of plants such as giant hogweed as raw materials for the manufacture of dosage forms has been little explored. In this study, we utilized furanocoumarins from the Heracleum sosnowskyi plant to create an experimental emulsion dosage form (EmFHS). The EmFHS was finely dispersed (481.8 nm ± 71.1 nm), shelf-stable, and contained predominantly 8-methoxypsoralen at a concentration of 1 mg/ml. Phototoxicity analysis of EmFHS for THP-1 cells under UV (365 nm) irradiation showed an IC50 of 19.1 µg/ml (24 h) and 6.3 µg/ml (48 h). In relation to spheroids (L929), EmFHS exhibited a phototoxic effect in the concentration range of 31.25-125 µg/ml8-MOP. A full phototoxic effect was observed 48 h after UV irradiation. The phototoxic effect of EmFHS in vitro was dose-dependent and comparable to the effect of emulsion synthetic 8-methoxypsoralen and chlorin e6 solution. EmFHS cytotoxicity was caused solely by UV radiation, and toxicity in the dark was minimal. EmFHS, administered at a dose of 3 mg/kg8-MOP, was found to be safe after a single intravenous administration to rats. It had a photosensitizing effect in the form of local photodermatitis when exposed to UV irradiation at a dose of 44 J/cm2. The biokinetics of emulsion furanocoumarins showed that the phototoxic effect of EmFHS is due to the high penetration ability of the emulsion into cells of spheroids. At the same time, it has a low degree of cumulation when administered intravenously. The obtained data suggest that EmFHS may be a promising treatment for PUVA therapy of various dermatological diseases. Additionally, the plant Heracleum sosnowskyi shows potential as a basis for creating new dosage forms with phototherapeutic effects.

Inline phase transition trapping-selective supercritical fluid extraction-supercritical fluid chromatography: A green and efficient integrated method for determining prohibited substances in cosmetics

BACKGROUND

Developing an environmentally friendly and efficient integrated analytical approach is a cutting-edge topic in current analytical science. Due to the unique properties of supercritical carbon dioxide (sc-CO2), online supercritical fluid extraction-supercritical fluid chromatography (SFE-SFC) is developing rapidly and has been widely applied in many fields. However, it still faces several challenges such as peak broadening and matrix interference. In order to solve the problems, we developed an inline phase transition trapping-selective supercritical fluid extraction-supercritical fluid chromatography (PTT-SSFE-SFC)-tandem mass spectrometry (MS/MS) method in this study.

RESULTS

This method integrated extraction, purification, separation, and detection, which was applied to determine 114 prohibited substances in cosmetics within 33 min, covering ten categories. The PTT strategy trapped the extracts on the head of the column by transforming CO2 from a supercritical state to a gaseous state, preventing peak spreading and improving sensitivity. Several adsorbents were tested when analyzing aqueous samples to reduce matrix interference and absorb water. Compared with conventional online SFE-SFC, this method improved the matrix effects of 93 and 87 target substances in the toner and mask matrix, respectively. Because the integrated method reduced sample loss, it achieved high sensitivity with LODs ranging from 0.00104 μg L-1 to 3.09 μg L-1. Furthermore, compared with other reported green methods, the inline method showed advantages in automation, efficiency, sample amount, and waste volume.

SIGNIFICANCE AND NOVELTY

With the introduction of the PTT strategy and the adsorbent, the system obtained good peak shapes, high sensitivity, low matrix effect, and good recovery. Based on the results, inline PTT-SSFE-SFC-MS/MS as a green and efficient integrated method has great potential for analyzing low abundance and multiple categories of targets in complex samples.

Biochemometry identifies ostruthin as pluripotent antimicrobial and anthelmintic agent from masterwort

The root extract of Peucedanum ostruthium (PO-E) was identified as a promising antibacterial source from a screening of 158 extracts against Staphylococcus aureus. It has also recently been shown to significantly decrease the survival of the nematode Caenorhabditis elegans. We used the biochemometric approach ELINA to investigate the phytochemical characteristics of the multicomponent mixture PO-E to identify the anti-infective constituent(s) targeting S. aureus and C. elegans.1H NMR spectra of PO-E-derived microfractions were correlated with their respective bioactivity data. Heterocovariance analyses unambiguously identified ostruthin as an anti-staphylococcal constituent, which potently also inhibited Enterococcus spp.. ELINA demonstrated that anthelmintic activity was due to a combinatorial effect of ostruthin and isoimperatorin. A C. elegans-based survival and motility assay confirmed that isoimperatorin, imperatorin, and verapamil modulated the susceptibility of ostruthin. The combinatorial effect of these natural products was shown in larvae studies to be related to the function of the nematodes' efflux pump.

Analysis of Prohibited and Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics

The general public uses cosmetics daily. Cosmetic products contain substances (ingredients) with various functions, from skincare to enhancing appearance, as well as ingredients that preserve the cosmetic products. Some cosmetic ingredients are prohibited or restricted in certain geographical regions, such as the European Union and the United States of America, due to their potential to cause adverse effects such as cancer, birth defects, and/or developmental and reproductive disorders. However, the ingredients may be used in other regions, and, hence, the monitoring of the cosmetic ingredients actually used is important to ensure the safety of cosmetic products. This review provides an overview of recent analytical methods that have been developed for detecting certain ingredients that are restricted or prohibited by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and/or EU legislation on cosmetic products.

Linear retention index approach applied to liquid chromatography coupled to triple quadrupole mass spectrometry to determine oxygen heterocyclic compounds at trace level in finished cosmetics

In the European Union, cosmetic products are regulated by the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. The Analytical Working Group of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) suggested that a new sensitive analytical method is needed to determine psoralens in finished cosmetic products. This research provides an HPLC-MS/MS method for the quality control of 20 furocoumarins, 8 coumarins and 7 polymethoxyflavones in cosmetics. Thanks to the high sensitivity of the tandem mass spectrometry detection in Multiple Reaction Monitoring mode, psoralens contained in trace have been quantified in different products. The Limits of Quantifications were in the range 0.3-74 μg L^-1. A reliable identification was achieved combining the Linear Retention Index (LRI) system with the MS and MS/MS libraries. In particular, the attribution was based on the spectra similarity filtered by the LRI parameter. The robustness and reproducibility of the LRI approach was demonstrated by the comparison of the HPLC-MS/MS results here reported with those obtained in our previous study, by using an HPLC-PDA system. This method could be taken into account for quality control of furocoumarins in cosmetics, and by the main associations, such as IFRA, for the purpose of issuing new opinions.

Novel ionic liquid based dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction for the extraction of bergapten and bergamottin in hydroalcoholic cosmetic formulations

This study reports the synthesis of the room temperature ionic liquid 1-propyloxy-3-ethoxyimidazolium bis(trifluoromethane)sulfonamide for the extraction of bergapten and bergamottin from hydroalcoholic cosmetic samples by means of dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction. Molecular structures of the final ionic liquid as well as intermediate products were confirmed by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy. Analyses were performed with high performance liquid chromatography with subsequent diode array and fluorescence detection. The extraction procedure was optimized with the design of the experiment using a three level Box-Behnken approach. Applying the synthesized room temperature ionic liquid as extraction medium, the optimized workflow demonstrated high recoveries illustrating powerful isolation properties for furanocoumarins, which are comparable or even better than using typical extraction solvents. Moreover, the workflow was validated regarding instrumental limits, linearity, accuracy, repeatability and stability of analytes according to international guidelines. To test its applicability on a more complex matrix, hydroalcoholic cosmetic samples were analyzed. Despite highly complex matrices, accurate and precise quantification in the range of 0.04-1.25 μg mL-1 was achieved in spiked and unspiked samples, with bias <10% and RSD < 12%.

A rapid UHPLC-QqQ-MS/MS method for the simultaneous qualitation and quantitation of coumarins, furocoumarins, flavonoids, phenolic acids in pummelo fruits

The impact of secondary metabolites on fruit quality, plant growth and human health has led to an increased demand for analytical methods to characterize and quantify these metabolites in recent years. A versatile, sensitive and rapid method based on UHPLC-QqQ-MS/MS was developed for simultaneous qualitation and quantitation of coumarins, furocoumarins, flavonoids and phenolic acids. The chromatographic elution and multiple reaction monitoring mode transitions were optimized to achieve good separation and accurate quantitation of 47 analytes, including 13 groups of isomers, during a single 13 min chromatographic run. This method was validated with good precision and recoveries, wide linear ranges and low limits of detection and quantitation (0.014-1.50 μg L-1). The validated method was further applied to quantify the analytes in flavedo, albedo and pulp from two pummelo varieties, C. grandis 'Shatianyu' and C. grandis 'Guanximiyu'. This method combines high sensitivity, good selectivity, and short chromatographic run time.