α-Linolenic acid and linoleic acid modulate the lipidome and the skin barrier of a tissue-engineered skin model

The primary role of sebum in the pathophysiology of acne vulgaris and its therapeutic relevance in acne management

BACKGROUND

Sebum physiology and its contributions to acne vulgaris (AV) pathophysiology have been long debated. Within the pilosebaceous unit, androgens drive sebocyte production of sebum, comprising mono-, di-, and triglycerides (the latter converted to fatty acids); squalene; cholesterol; cholesterol esters; and wax esters. Upon release to the skin surface, human sebum has important roles in epidermal water retention, antimicrobial defenses, and innate immune responses.

AIMS

Alterations in sebum alone and with other pathogenic factors (inflammation, follicular hyperkeratinization, and Cutibacterium acnes [C. acnes] proliferation) contribute to AV pathophysiology. Androgen-driven sebum production, mandatory for AV development, propagates C. acnes proliferation and upregulates inflammatory and comedogenic cascades.

RESULTS

Some sebum lipids have comedogenic effects in isolation, and sebum content alterations (including elevations in specific fatty acids) contribute to AV pathogenesis. Regional differences in facial sebum production, coupled with patient characteristics (including sex and age), help exemplify this link between sebum alterations and AV lesion formation.

CONCLUSIONS

To date, only combined oral contraceptives and oral spironolactone (both limited to female patients), oral isotretinoin and topical clascoterone (cortexolone 17α-propionate) modulate sebum production in patients with AV. A better understanding of mechanisms underlying sebaceous gland changes driving AV development is needed to expand the AV treatment armamentarium.

Exploring the characteristics, digestion behaviors, and nutraceutical potential of the underutilized Chimonanthus praecox (L.) link kernel oil: A combined in vitro and in vivo study

Chimonanthus praecox (L.) Link kernel oil (LMO) has the potential to expand the variety of nutraceutical plant oils available and provide support for the application of functional food. This study aimed to assess the edible potential of LMO by examining its physicochemical characteristics, digestion behaviors, and nutraceutical properties. The results revealed that LMO has a high oil content of 40.84% and is particularly rich in linoleic acid (53.37-56.30%), oleic acid (22.04-25.08%) and triacylglycerol (TAG) of linoleic acid -palmitoleic acid- oleic acid (10.57-12.70%). The quality characteristics and phytochemical composition of LMO were found to be influenced by variety and extraction methods used. In simulated in vitro digestion tests, LMO showed a better lipid release rate and degree. Animal studies further demonstrated that LMO led to better TAG and cholesterol excretion compared to soybean oil and camellia oleifera oil. Overall, this study highlights the potential of LMO as a high-quality edible oil.

Emu oil alleviates atopic dermatitis-like responses by inhibiting Cdc42 signaling of keratinocyte

Emu oil is the oil extracted from the body fat of the Australian bird emu. Although previous studies have reported that emu oil has anti-inflammatory effects, the effect and mechanism of emu oil on the treatment of atopic dermatitis have not been reported. Here, 2, 4-dinitrofluorobenzene was used to induce atopic dermatitis-like appearance on the back skin of C57BL/6 mice. And then, the effect of emu oil in the atopic dermatitis treatment was evaluated. We found that emu oil reduced the transdermal water loss in the atopic dermatitis model. Additionally, the epidermal thickness treated with emu oil was significantly thinner. The number of mast cells and inflammatory cells were significantly decreased. The thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP), which is secreted by keratinocyte, was decreased significantly after treatment. Moreover, the serum levels of cytokines TSLP, interleukin-4, interleukin-13, and immunoglobulin (Ig) E were decreased after emu oil treatment. Surprisingly, we found that the high level of Cdc42 expression in the atopic dermatitis, which was decreased after emu oil treatment. To detect the role of Cdc42 in atopic dermatitis, we constructed atopic dermatitis model in mice with sustained activation of Cdc42 signaling. Furthermore, we have confirmed that emu oil demonstrates anti-inflammatory effects in atopic dermatitis by inhibiting the expression of Cdc42 signaling in keratinocytes. In conclusion, we discovered a new role of Cdc42 in the development of atopic dermatitis, which mediated the therapeutic effect of emu oil on atopic dermatitis.

Elastogenesis in Focus: Navigating Elastic Fibers Synthesis for Advanced Dermal Biomaterial Formulation

Elastin, a fibrous extracellular matrix (ECM) protein, is the main component of elastic fibers that are involved in tissues' elasticity and resilience, enabling them to undergo reversible extensibility and to endure repetitive mechanical stress. After wounding, it is challenging to regenerate elastic fibers and biomaterials developed thus far have struggled to induce its biosynthesis. This review provides a comprehensive summary of elastic fibers synthesis at the cellular level and its implications for biomaterial formulation, with a particular focus on dermal substitutes. The review delves into the intricate process of elastogenesis by cells and investigates potential triggers for elastogenesis encompassing elastin-related compounds, ECM components, and other molecules for their potential role in inducing elastin formation. Understanding of the elastogenic processes is essential for developing biomaterials that trigger not only the synthesis of the elastin protein, but also the formation of a functional and branched elastic fiber network.

Multi-omics Analysis Reveals Key Gut Microbiota and Metabolites Closely Associated with Huntington's Disease

Dysbiosis of the gut microbiota is closely associated with neurodegenerative diseases, including Huntington's disease (HD). Gut microbiome-derived metabolites are key factors in host-microbiome interactions. This study aimed to investigate the crucial gut microbiome and metabolites in HD and their correlations. Fecal and serum samples from 11 to 26 patients with HD, respectively, and 16 and 23 healthy controls, respectively, were collected. The fecal samples were used for shotgun metagenomics while the serum samples for metabolomics analysis. Integrated analysis of the metagenomics and metabolomics data was also conducted. Firmicutes, Bacteroidota, Proteobacteria, Uroviricota, Actinobacteria, and Verrucomicrobia were the dominant phyla. At the genus level, the presence of Bacteroides, Faecalibacterium, Parabacteroides, Alistipes, Dialister, and Christensenella was higher in HD patients, while the abundance of Lachnospira, Roseburia, Clostridium, Ruminococcus, Blautia, Butyricicoccus, Agathobaculum, Phocaeicola, Coprococcus, and Fusicatenibacter decreased. A total of 244 differential metabolites were identified and found to be enriched in the glycerophospholipid, nucleotide, biotin, galactose, and alpha-linolenic acid metabolic pathways. The AUC value from the integrated analysis (1) was higher than that from the analysis of the gut microbiota (0.8632). No significant differences were found in the ACE, Simpson, Shannon, Sobs, and Chao indexes between HD patients and controls. Our study determined crucial functional gut microbiota and potential biomarkers associated with HD pathogenesis, providing new insights into the role of the gut microbiota-brain axis in HD occurrence and development.

Valorisation of Raspberry Seeds in Cosmetic Industry-Green Solutions

The fruit processing industry generates large quantities of by-products well known to be rich in bioactive compounds with numerous nutritional properties and beneficial effects for human health. We developed a strategy to valorise raspberry seeds and obtain valuable ingredients with potential application in cosmetic skincare formulas. Cold press extraction technology was applied to extract oil, and the remaining defatted raspberry seed cake was treated with three proline based deep eutectic solvents (DES) to extract polyphenols. The most potent was proline/citric acid extract, with free and total ellagic acid content (52.4 mg/L and 86.4 mg/L), total phenolic content (TPC, 550.1 mg GAE/L) and radical scavenging activity (RSA, 4742.7 mmol TE/L). After the direct mixing of the extract and after encapsulation with starch as a carrier, the skincare emulsion and microemulsion were characterised by irritation potential (Zein test), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), red blood cell (RBC), and DPPH antioxidant test. The resulting preparations were of improved quality in comparison to the control hand cream, with a low skin irritation effect, lower TEWL, and higher antioxidant potential. This work complies with circular economy principles and green technology standards, and represents the efficient model on how to reuse natural resources through waste minimization.

The epidermal lipid-microbiome loop and immunity: Important players in atopic dermatitis

BACKGROUND

The promotion of epidermal barrier dysfunction is attributed to abnormalities in the lipid-microbiome positive feedback loop which significantly influences the imbalance of the epithelial immune microenvironment (EIME) in atopic dermatitis (AD). This imbalance encompasses impaired lamellar membrane integrity, heightened exposure to epidermal pathogens, and the regulation of innate and adaptive immunity. The lipid-microbiome loop is substantially influenced by intense adaptive immunity which is triggered by abnormal loop activity and affects the loop's integrity through the induction of atypical lipid composition and responses to dysregulated epidermal microbes. Immune responses participate in lipid abnormalities within the EIME by downregulating barrier gene expression and are further cascade-amplified by microbial dysregulation which is instigated by barrier impairment.

AIM OF REVIEW

This review examines the relationship between abnormal lipid composition, microbiome disturbances, and immune responses in AD while progressively substantiating the crosstalk mechanism among these factors. Based on this analysis, the "lipid-microbiome" positive feedback loop, regulated by immune responses, is proposed.

KEY SCIENTIFIC CONCEPTS OF REVIEW

The review delves into the impact of adaptive immune responses that regulate the EIME, driving AD, and investigates potential mechanisms by which lipid supplementation and probiotics may alleviate AD through the up-regulation of the epidermal barrier and modulation of immune signaling. This exploration offers support for targeting the EIME to attenuate AD.

Characteristics of Purified Horse Oil by Supercritical Fluid Extraction with Different Deodorants Agents

This study investigated the impact of activated carbon, palm activated carbon, and zeolite on horse oil (HO) extracted from horse neck fat using supercritical fluid extraction with deodorant-untreated HO (CON) as a comparison. The yield and lipid oxidation of deodorant untreated HO (CON) were not significantly affected by the three deodorants. However, deodorant-treated HOs exhibited significantly elevated levels of α-linolenic acid (C18:3n3) and eicosenoic acid (C20:1n9) compared to CON (p<0.05), while other fatty acids remained consistent. Zeolite-purified HO demonstrated significantly lower levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) than other treatments (p<0.05). Remarkably, zeolite decreased the concentration of pentane, 2,3-dimethyl (gasoline odor), by over 90%, from 177.17 A.U. ×106 in CON to 15.91 A.U. ×106. Zeolite also effectively eliminates sec-butylamine (ammonia and fishy odor) as compared to other deodorant-treated HOs (p<0.05). Additionally, zeolite reduced VOCs associated with the fruity citrus flavor, such as nonanal, octanal, and D-limonene in HO (p<0.05). This study suggests that integrating zeolite in supercritical fluid extraction enhances HO purification by effectively eliminating undesirable VOCs, presenting a valuable approach for producing high-quality HO production in the cosmetic and functional food industries.

Eicosapentaenoic Acid Influences the Lipid Profile of an In Vitro Psoriatic Skin Model Produced with T Cells

Psoriasis is a skin disease characterized by epidermal hyperplasia and an inappropriate activation of the adaptive immunity. A dysregulation of the skin's lipid mediators is reported in the disease with a predominance of the inflammatory cascade derived from n-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids (n-6 PUFAs). Bioactive lipid mediators derived from arachidonic acid (AA) are involved in the inflammatory functions of T cells in psoriasis, whereas n-3 PUFAs' derivatives are anti-inflammatory metabolites. Here, we sought to evaluate the influence of a supplementation of the culture media with eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) on the lipid profile of a psoriatic skin model produced with polarized T cells. Healthy and psoriatic skin substitutes were produced following the auto-assembly technique. Psoriatic skin substitutes produced with or without T cells presented increased epidermal and dermal linolenic acid (LA) and AA levels. N-6 PUFA lipid mediators were strongly measured in psoriatic substitutes, namely, 13-hydroxyoctadecadienoic acid (13-HODE), prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and 12-hydroxyeicosatetraenoic acid (12-HETE). The added EPA elevated the amounts of EPA, n-3 docosapentaenoic acid (DPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) in the epidermal and dermal phospholipids. The EPA supplementation balanced the production of epidermal lipid mediators, with an increase in prostaglandin E3 (PGE3), 12-hydroxyeicosapentaenoic acid (12-HEPE) and N-eicosapentaenoyl-ethanolamine (EPEA) levels. These findings show that EPA modulates the lipid composition of psoriatic skin substitutes by encouraging the return to a cutaneous homeostatic state.

Evaluation of Lipid Extracts from the Marine Fungi Emericellopsis cladophorae and Zalerion maritima as a Source of Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant and Antibacterial Compounds

Marine environments occupy more than 70% of the earth's surface, integrating very diverse habitats with specific characteristics. This heterogeneity of environments is reflected in the biochemical composition of the organisms that inhabit them. Marine organisms are a source of bioactive compounds, being increasingly studied due to their health-beneficial properties, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, or anticancer. In the last decades, marine fungi have stood out for their potential to produce compounds with therapeutic properties. The objective of this study was to determine the fatty acid profile of isolates from the fungi Emericellopsis cladophorae and Zalerion maritima and assess the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial potential of their lipid extracts. The analysis of the fatty acid profile, using GC-MS, showed that E. cladophorae and Z. maritima possess high contents of polyunsaturated fatty acids, 50% and 34%, respectively, including the omega-3 fatty acid 18:3 n-3. Emericellopsis cladophorae and Z. maritima lipid extracts showed anti-inflammatory activity expressed by the capacity of their COX-2 inhibition which was 92% and 88% of inhibition at 200 µg lipid mL^-1, respectively. Emericellopsis cladophorae lipid extracts showed a high percentage of inhibition of COX -2 activity even at low concentrations of lipids (54% of inhibition using 20 µg lipid mL^-1), while a dose-dependent behaviour was observed in Z. maritima. The antioxidant activity assays of total lipid extracts demonstrated that the lipid extract from E. cladophorae did not show antioxidant activity, while Z. maritima gave an IC₂₀ value of 116.6 ± 6.2 µg mL^-1 equivalent to 92.1 ± 4.8 µmol Trolox g^-1 of lipid extract in the DPPH• assay, and 101.3 ± 14.4 µg mL^-1 equivalent to 106.6 ± 14.8 µmol Trolox g^-1 of lipid extract in the ABTS•⁺ assay. The lipid extract of both fungal species did not show antibacterial properties at the concentrations tested. This study is the first step in the biochemical characterization of these marine organisms and demonstrates the bioactive potential of lipid extracts from marine fungi for biotechnological applications.

Current insights into skin lipids and their roles in cutaneous health and disease

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

The unique and complex array of cutaneous lipids include essential components of the skin structure and signalling molecules mediating homeostasis and inflammation. Understanding skin lipid biology and metabolism can support our comprehension of health and disease, including systemic conditions with cutaneous involvement.

RECENT FINDINGS

Lipids found on the skin surface, produced by both the host and resident microbes, maintain and regulate the skin microbiome and the epidermal barrier, whilst altered contributions from either source can be detrimental to skin health. The unique lipid composition of the epidermal barrier is essential for its function, and recent studies have expanded our understanding of epidermal ceramide production. This has been supported by improved models available for skin research, including organotypic skin models enabling in-vitro production of complex acylceramides for the first time, and model systems facilitating in-silico exploration of the lipid profile changes observed in clinical samples. Studies have revealed further involvement of lipid mediators such as eicosanoids in cutaneous inflammation, as well as immune regulation in both healthy and diseased skin.

SUMMARY

Skin lipids offer exciting opportunities as therapeutic targets for many conditions, whether through topical interventions or nutritional supplementation.

LC-HR/MS Analysis of Lipophilic Extracts from Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. Organs: An Unexplored Source in Cosmeceuticals

As part of a project aimed at promoting the use of Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. (field marigold, Asteraceae) phytocomplexes in cosmeceutical formulations, the chemical composition in apolar specialized metabolites is herein elucidated. Furthermore, the screening of the cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts was evaluated in order to underline their safety as functional ingredients for cosmetics. After dissection of Calendula organs (florets, fruits, leaves, bracts, stems, and roots), ultrasound-assisted maceration in n-hexane as an extracting solvent allowed us to obtain oil-like mixtures, whose chemical composition has been highlighted through a UHPLC-ESI-QqTOF-MS/MS approach. Twenty-nine metabolites were tentatively identified; different compounds, among which the well-known poly-unsaturated fatty acids, and oxylipins and phosphatides were detected for the first time in Calendula genus. The screening of the dose-response cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts of C. arvensis highlighted the concentration of 10 μg/mL as the most suitable for the formulation of cosmeceutical preparations. Sera enriched with leaf and fruit apolar extracts turned out to have the best activity, suggesting it can be used as a new source in skin care thanks to their higher content in fatty acids.

Current knowledge of the implication of lipid mediators in psoriasis

The skin is an organ involved in several biological processes essential to the proper functioning of the organism. One of these essential biological functions of the skin is its barrier function, mediated notably by the lipids of the stratum corneum, and which prevents both penetration from external aggression, and transepidermal water loss. Bioactive lipid mediators derived from polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) constitute a complex bioactive lipid network greatly involved in skin homeostasis. Bioactive lipid mediators derived from n-3 and n-6 PUFAs have well-documented anti- and pro-inflammatory properties and are recognized as playing numerous and complex roles in the behavior of diverse skin diseases, including psoriasis. Psoriasis is an inflammatory autoimmune disease with many comorbidities and is associated with enhanced levels of pro-inflammatory lipid mediators. Studies have shown that a high intake of n-3 PUFAs can influence the development and progression of psoriasis, mainly by reducing the severity and frequency of psoriatic plaques. Herein, we provide an overview of the differential effects of n-3 and n-6 PUFA lipid mediators, including prostanoids, hydroxy-fatty acids, leukotrienes, specialized pro-resolving mediators, N-acylethanolamines, monoacylglycerols and endocannabinoids. This review summarizes current findings on lipid mediators playing a role in the skin and their potential as therapeutic targets for psoriatic patients.

Remodeling of the Dermal Extracellular Matrix in a Tissue-Engineered Psoriatic Skin Model by n-3 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids

Psoriasis is an inflammatory skin disease mainly associated with an epidermal disorder. However, the involvement of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) composition in psoriasis is still poorly understood. This study aimed to investigate the expression of ECM components in psoriatic skin substitutes (PS⁻) compared with healthy skin substitutes (HS⁻), as well as the effect of an n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acid, namely α-linolenic acid (ALA), on the psoriatic dermal compartment (PS^ALA+). Liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry analyses revealed that the lipidome of PS⁻ contained higher amounts of n-6 derived prostaglandins (PGE₂) and lipoxygenase products (9-HODE and 15-HETE). ALA supplementation increased the levels of PGE₃, 13-HOTrE, 15-HEPE, and 18-HEPE, and decreased the levels of PGE₂, 15-HETE, and 9-HOPE compared with PS⁻, indicating that ALA modulates the dermal lipidome of psoriatic skin substitutes. Gene expression profiling showed that several genes encoding for different ECM proteins were overexpressed in PS⁻ compared with HS⁻, namely COL1A1 (4.2-fold), COL1A2 (3-fold), COL3A1 (4.4-fold), COL4A1 (2.3-fold), COL4A2 (6.3-fold), COL5A1 (3.3-fold), COL5A2 (5.2-fold), and COL5A3 (4.6-fold). Moreover, the expression of collagen IV (Col IV), collagen VII (Col VII), and laminin was found to be increased in PS⁻ compared with HS⁻, and to be restored with ALA (PS^ALA+) according to immunofluorescence staining, while only the collagen I to collagen III ratio was altered according to dot blot analyses. Linear regression analysis revealed several positive correlations, including Col III with 14-HDHA levels, fibronectin with 12-HETE and 15-HETE levels, the dermo-epidermal junction Col IV with PGF_2α, 9-HODE, and 13-HODE levels, and laminin with levels of PGF_2α, 9-HODE, 13-HODE, 5-HETE, 12-HETE, and 15-HETE. These results suggest that the ECM plays an underestimated role in the pathogenesis of psoriasis and that ALA supplementation can regulate the ECM composition.

Alpha-Linolenic Acid Modulates T Cell Incorporation in a 3D Tissue-Engineered Psoriatic Skin Model

Psoriasis is an autoimmune skin disease with an increased number of leukocytes infiltrating the dermal and epidermal compartments compared with normal skin. N-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (n-3 PUFAs) are frequently used in the clinic in order to attenuate the symptoms of psoriasis. For psoriatic patients, a supplementation of the diet with alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) reduces the activation of T cell signaling pathways, leading to a significant reduction in inflammatory cytokine secretion. However, the precise mechanism of action of n-3 PUFAs in psoriasis is still not understood. In the present study, we elucidated the bioaction of ALA on the adaptive immune component of psoriasis by using a psoriatic skin model produced with the addition of activated T cells. Healthy and psoriatic skin substitutes were produced according to the self-assembly method, using culture media supplemented with 10 μM of ALA. T cells were isolated from blood samples using a negative selection isolation method. ALA supplementation regulated the hyperproliferation and abnormal cell differentiation of psoriatic keratinocytes stimulated by T cells. Additionally, the exogenous ALA was correctly incorporated into the phospholipids of keratinocytes, which resulted in increased levels of ALA, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and n-3 docosapentaenoic acid (n-3 DPA). The infiltration of T cells into the epidermis was reduced when ALA was added to the culture medium, and significant decreases in the levels of inflammatory cytokines and chemokines such as CXCL1, interleukin-6 (IL-6) and interleukin-8 (IL-8) were consequently measured in psoriatic substitutes supplemented with this n-3 PUFA. Altogether, our results showed that in this psoriatic skin model enriched with T cells, ALA exerted its beneficial effect by decreasing the quantities of inflammatory mediators released by T cells.