Trends in the use of marine ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics

Unlocking the Therapeutic Potential of Marine Collagen: A Scientific Exploration for Delaying Skin Aging

Aging is closely associated with collagen degradation, impacting the structure and strength of the muscles, joints, bones, and skin. The continuous aging of the skin is a natural process that is influenced by extrinsic factors such as UV exposure, dietary patterns, smoking habits, and cosmetic supplements. Supplements that contain collagen can act as remedies that help restore vitality and youth to the skin, helping combat aging. Notably, collagen supplements enriched with essential amino acids such as proline and glycine, along with marine fish collagen, have become popular for their safety and effectiveness in mitigating the aging process. To compile the relevant literature on the anti-aging applications of marine collagen, a search and analysis of peer-reviewed papers was conducted using PubMed, Cochrane Library, Web of Science, and Embase, covering publications from 1991 to 2024. From in vitro to in vivo experiments, the reviewed studies elucidate the anti-aging benefits of marine collagen, emphasizing its role in combating skin aging by minimizing oxidative stress, photodamage, and the appearance of wrinkles. Various bioactive marine peptides exhibit diverse anti-aging properties, including free radical scavenging, apoptosis inhibition, lifespan extension in various organisms, and protective effects in aging humans. Furthermore, the topical application of hyaluronic acid is discussed as a mechanism to increase collagen production and skin moisture, contributing to the anti-aging effects of collagen supplementation. The integration of bio-tissue engineering in marine collagen applications is also explored, highlighting its proven utility in skin healing and bone regeneration applications. However, limitations to the scope of its application exist. Thus, by delving into these nuanced considerations, this review contributes to a comprehensive understanding of the potential and challenges associated with marine collagen in the realm of anti-aging applications.

Production and Partial Characterization of Bioactive Compounds from Underutilized Marine Bioresources for a Cosmetic Formulation: Cytotoxicity and Bioactivity Evaluation

Hydrolyzed collagen, glycogen, and hyaluronic acid, obtained through the biotechnological valorization of underutilized marine bioresources, fulfill cosmetic industry requirements for sustainable products produced under circular economy principles. Hydrolyzed collagen was obtained by hydrolyzing blue shark collagen with papain and ultrafiltration. Glycogen was isolated from industrial mussel cooking wastewaters through ultrafiltration, precipitation, and selective polysaccharide separation. Hyaluronic acid was produced by fermentation, purification, and depolymerization. The main objective was to test the feasibility of including these three biomolecules in a cosmetic formulation as bioactive compounds. For this, the in vitro irritant potential of the three ingredients and also that of the cosmetic formulation was assayed according to the Reconstituted Human Epithelium Test method OECD 439. Moreover, an in vitro assessment of the effect of hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations on mRNA expression and collagen type I synthesis was evaluated in adult human fibroblasts. This study establishes, for the first time, the potential use of particular hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations as stimulators of collagen I synthesis in fibroblast cultures. Besides, it provide safety information regarding potential use of those biomolecules in the formulation of a cosmetic preparation positively concluding that both, ingredients and cosmetic preparation, resulted not irritant for skin following an international validated reference method.

Identification of Loliolide with Anti-Aging Properties from Scenedesmus deserticola JD052

Herein, different extracts of Scenedesmus deserticola JD052, a green microalga, were evaluated in vitro as a potential anti-aging bioagent. Although post-treatment of microalgal culture with either UV irradiation or high light illumination did not lead to a substantial difference in the effectiveness of microalgal extracts as a potential anti-UV agent, the results indicated the presence of a highly potent compound in ethyl acetate extract with more than 20% increase in the cellular viability of normal human dermal fibroblasts (nHDFs) compared with the negative control amended with DMSO. The subsequent fractionation of the ethyl acetate extract led to two bioactive fractions with high anti-UV property; one of the fractions was further separated down to a single compound. While electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy analysis identified this single compound as loliolide, its identification has been rarely reported in microalgae previously, prompting thorough systematic investigations into this novel compound for the nascent microalgal industry.

Next-Generation Organic Beauty Products Obtained from Algal Secondary Metabolites: A Sustainable Development in Cosmeceutical Industries

Algae lay over most of the earth's habitats, and it is said that there are more algal cells in water than there are stars in the sky. They are among the wealthiest marine resources that are to be deemed harmless, with hardly any deleterious consequences. Recently, they have received a lot of consideration to be used in cosmeceuticals. Cosmetics encompass synthetic concoctions that are extremely toxic to the environment. Due to their higher molecular size, synthetic cosmetic items induce undesirable side effects and inadequate absorption rates. Consequently, utilizing algae or their secondary metabolites in cosmetics has won multiple votes. Various secondary metabolites synthesized from algae are known to provide skin advantages, such as ultraviolet protection and reduction of skin flaccidity, rough texture, and wrinkles. The tangent drawn here using algae reduces the inorganic/organic chemicals used in the industry that are known to accumulate and affect other organisms and thus opens a pandora's box of ways to a less-polluted environment. The alga is indeed very intriguing. According to the reported studies, algal cells provide biosorption, bio-assimilation, biotransformation, and biodegradation, making them suitable for the eradication of chronic and harmful contaminants from the environment. Another rapid innovation is the product's sustainability. While presenting and marketing new algal products, cosmetics producers have greatly highlighted that they are eco-friendly. This review thus accentuates the significance of using algae and their secondary metabolites in cosmetics to produce extensive variety of products that include sunscreens, moisturizers, anti-aging creams, colorants, and hair care items and extensive insight on the possible remedial capacities of algae species against environmentally dangerous substances in the context of cosmetic chemicals.

The Potential of Algae in the Nutricosmetic Sector

Seaweeds or algae are marine autotrophic organisms. They produce nutrients (e.g., proteins, carbohydrates, etc.) essential for the survival of living organisms as they participate in biochemical processes and non-nutritive molecules (such as dietary fibers and secondary metabolites), which can improve their physiological functions. Seaweed polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, terpenoids, pigments, and polyphenols have biological properties that can be used to develop food supplements and nutricosmetic products as they can act as antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory compounds. This review examines the (primary and secondary) metabolites produced by algae, the most recent evidence of their effect on human health conditions, with particular attention to what concerns the skin and hair's well-being. It also evaluates the industrial potential of recovering these metabolites from biomass produced by algae used to clean wastewater. The results demonstrate that algae can be considered a natural source of bioactive molecules for well-being formulations. The primary and secondary metabolites' upcycling can be an exciting opportunity to safeguard the planet (promoting a circular economy) and, at the same time, obtain low-cost bioactive molecules for the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries from low-cost, raw, and renewable materials. Today's lack of methodologies for recovering bioactive molecules in large-scale processes limits practical realization.

Biopigments of Microbial Origin and Their Application in the Cosmetic Industry

Along with serving as a source of color, many microbial pigments have gained attention as interesting bioactive molecules with potential health advantages. These pigments have several applications in the food, agrochemical, medicine, and cosmetic industries. They have attracted the attention of these industries due to their high production value, low cost, stability, and biodegradability. Recently, many consumers worldwide have noted the impact of synthetic dyes; thus, natural pigments are more in demand than synthetic colors. On the other hand, the cosmetic industry has been moving toward greener manufacturing, from the formulation to the packaging material. Microbial pigments have several applications in the field of cosmetics due to their photoprotection, antioxidant, and antiaging properties, including inhibiting melanogenesis and acting as natural colorants for cosmetics, as some microorganisms are rich in pigments. More investigations are required to estimate the safety and efficacy of employing microbial pigments in cosmetic products. Furthermore, it is necessary to obtain information about DNA sequencing, metabolic pathways, and genetic engineering. In addition, unique habitats should be explored for novel pigments and new producing strains. Thus, new microbial pigments could be of consideration to the cosmetic industry, as they are ideal for future cosmetics with positive health effects.

Renewable marine polysaccharides for microenvironment-responsive wound healing

Marine polysaccharides (MPs) are an eco-friendly and renewable resource with a distinctive set of biological functions and are regarded as biological materials that can be in contact with tissues and body fluids for an extended time and promote tissue or organ regeneration. Skin tissue is easily invaded by the external environment due to its softness and large surface area. However, the body's natural physiological healing process is often too slow or suffers from the incomplete restoration of skin structure and function. Functional wound dressings are crucial for skin tissue engineering. Herein, popular MPs from different sources are summarized systematically. In particular, the structure-effectiveness of MP-based wound dressings and the physiological remodeling process of different wounds are reviewed in detail. Finally, the prospect of MP-based smart wound dressings is stated in conjunction with the wound microenvironment and provides new opportunities for high-value biomedical applications of MPs.

Potential of the Ethyl Acetate Fraction of Padina boergesenii as a Natural UV Filter in Sunscreen Cream Formulation

Brown seaweeds, due to their wide range of bioactive compounds, have a high ability to inhibit free radicals and protect against ultraviolet rays. In the present study, the ethyl acetate fraction (EF) was isolated from the Padina boergesenii brown seaweed. Antioxidant activity (by the DPPH scavenging activity method) and cytotoxicity against UVB-induced cytotoxicity in HaCaT human keratinocytes were evaluated. Then, this fraction was used as a bio-filter in the formulation of sunscreen, and the physical properties and stability were investigated. The results showed that the EF could inhibit DPPH radical scavenging (54 ± 1%) and cell viability of HaCaT keratinocytes exposed to UVB irradiation (81.2 ± 0.1%). The results of the stability study of the cream formulated with EF showed that at temperatures 4 °C and 25 °C it has high stability; and at 40 °C on the 28th day, a slight decrease in its stability was observed. The pH and Sun Protection Factor of the cream formulated with EF were reported at 5.8 and 20.55, respectively. Also, the DPPH scavenging activity of the cream was not altered for 28 days of storage at temperatures of 4-40 °C. According to our results, it was proved that the sunscreen formulated with EF of P. boergesenii brown seaweed has promising properties and characteristics that can create a new opportunity for the development of cosmetics and skin care products.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

Novel Siprulina platensis Bilosomes for Combating UVB Induced Skin Damage

The recent interest in bioactive compounds from natural sources has led to the evolution of the skin care industry. Efforts to develop biologically active ingredients from natural sources have resulted in the emergence of enhanced skin care products. Spirulina (SPR), a nutritionally enriched cyanobacteria-type microalga, is rich in nutrients and phytochemicals. SPR possesses antioxidant, immunomodulatory, and anti-inflammatory activities. Spirulina-loaded bilosomes (SPR-BS), a novel antiaging drug delivery system, were designed for the first time by incorporation in a lecithin−bile salt-integrated system for bypassing skin delivery obstacles. The optimized BS had good entrapment efficiency, small particle size, optimal zeta potential, and sustained drug release pattern. Blank and SPR-loaded BS formulations were safe, with a primary irritancy index of <2 based on the Draize test. In vivo tests were conducted, and photoprotective antiaging effects were evaluated visually and biochemically by analyzing antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-wrinkling markers following ultraviolet (UV) B irradiation. Results of biochemical marker analysis and histopathological examination confirmed the superior antiaging effect of SPR-BS compared with SPR. Thus, SPR-loaded BS is a promising nanoplatform for SPR delivery, can be used for treating UV-induced skin damage, and offers maximum therapeutic outcomes.

Rhodophyta as Potential Sources of Photoprotectants, Antiphotoaging Compounds, and Hydrogels for Cosmeceutical Application

Seaweeds are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic and photosynthetic organisms, and are a source of chemical diversity with powerful biological activities for diversified industrial applications including cosmeceuticals. Red seaweeds (Rhodophyta) are good sources of Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) for photoprotectant and antiphotoaging compounds. In addition, Rhodophyta are also good sources for hydrogel compounds that are used widely in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries as gelling agents, moisturizers or for their antiphotoaging effects. Our survey and ongoing studies revealed that the biodiversity of Indonesian Rhodophyta is rich and is a treasure trove for cosmeceutical agents including MAA and hydrogels. This study delivers valuable information for identifying potential red seaweeds in screening and searching for cosmeceutical agents.

The current research status and strategies employed to modify food-derived bioactive peptides

The ability of bioactive peptides to exert biological functions has mainly contributed to their exploitation. The exploitation and utilization of these peptides have grown tremendously over the past two decades. Food-derived peptides from sources such as plant, animal, and marine proteins and their byproducts constitute a more significant portion of the naturally-occurring peptides that have been documented. Due to their high specificity and biocompatibility, these peptides serve as a suitable alternative to pharmacological drugs for treating non-communicable diseases (such as cardiovascular diseases, obesity, and cancer). They are helpful as food preservatives, ingredients in functional foods, and dietary supplements in the food sector. Despite their unique features, the application of these peptides in the clinical and food sector is to some extent hindered by their inherent drawbacks such as toxicity, bitterness, instability, and susceptibility to enzymatic degradation in the gastrointestinal tract. Several strategies have been employed to eliminate or reduce the disadvantages of peptides, thus enhancing the peptide bioactivity and broadening the opportunities for their applications. This review article focuses on the current research status of various bioactive peptides and the strategies that have been implemented to overcome their disadvantages. It will also highlight future perspectives regarding the possible improvements to be made for the development of bioactive peptides with practical uses and their commercialization.

Application of Marine Microbial Natural Products in Cosmetics

As the market size of the cosmetics industry increases, the safety and effectiveness of new products face higher requirements. The marine environment selects for species of micro-organisms with metabolic pathways and adaptation mechanisms different from those of terrestrial organisms, resulting in their natural products exhibiting unique structures, high diversity, and significant biological activities. Natural products are usually safe and non-polluting. Therefore, considerable effort has been devoted to searching for cosmetic ingredients that are effective, safe, and natural for marine micro-organisms. However, marine micro-organisms can be difficult, or impossible, to culture because of their special environmental requirements. Metagenomics technology can help to solve this problem. Moreover, using marine species to produce more green and environmentally friendly products through biotransformation has become a new choice for cosmetic manufacturers. In this study, the natural products of marine micro-organisms are reviewed and evaluated with respect to various cosmetic applications.

Usage Patterns and Self-Esteem of Female Consumers of Antiaging Cosmetic Products

Aging is an irreversible process of the human body, resulting from a progressive decrease in the biological functions of the organs, including the skin. This study analyzed the relationship between usage patterns of different types of anti-aging cosmetic products, sociodemographic variables, appearance schemes, psychological morbidity, perfectionism, and aging perception of aging with self-esteem. This cross-sectional study included a sample of 260 women, aged between 25 and 64 years, who are users of anti-aging cosmetics and/or aesthetic treatments. Participants were assessed on psychological morbidity (Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale), appearance schemes (Appearance Schemas Inventory—Revised), perfectionism (Frost Multidimensional Perfectionism Scale), aging perceptions (Brief Aging Perceptions Questionnaire), and self-esteem (Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale). The use of facial-firming cosmetics positively correlated with self-esteem. The results of regression analysis revealed that psychological morbidity and perfectionism contribute negatively to self-esteem, while marital status, professional status, and aging perceptions (positive consequences) contribute positively. According to the results, intervention programs to promote women’s self-esteem should focus on the reduction in psychological morbidity and the promotion of adaptive patterns of perfectionism and address aging perceptions. Longitudinal studies might help explain the complex relationship between the use of anti-aging cosmetic products and psychological variables, particularly self-esteem in women.

Up-to-Date Overview of the Use of Natural Ingredients in Sunscreens

The photoprotective skincare segment is in high demand to meet consumer concerns on UV-induced skin damage, with a recent trend towards sunscreen alternatives with a natural origin. In this study, the use of natural ingredients, either from terrestrial or marine origin, in a panel of 444 sunscreen commercial formulations (2021) was analyzed. Ingredients from terrestrial organisms represent the large majority found in the analyzed sunscreen formulations (48%), whereas marine ingredients are present only in 13% of the analyzed products. A deeper analysis regarding the most prevalent families of ingredients from terrestrial and marine organisms used as top ingredients is also presented, as well as their mechanisms of action. This study provides an up-to-date overview of the sunscreen market regarding the use of natural ingredients, which is of relevance for scientists involved in the development of new sunscreens to identify opportunities for innovation.

Sustainability in Skin Care: Incorporation of Avocado Peel Extracts in Topical Formulations

The avocado peel is an agro-industrial by-product that has exhibited a massive increase in its production in the last few years. The reuse and valorisation of this by-product are essential since its disposal raises environmental concerns. In the present study, ethanolic extracts of avocado peels of the Hass variety were obtained, for three extraction times (1.5 h, 3 h and 4 h) and analysed for their antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Antioxidant evaluations of the extracts revealed that the extraction time of 1.5 h exhibited the best results amongst the three, with a DPPH inhibition percentage of 93.92 ± 1.29 and an IC₅₀ percentage, the necessary concentration of the extract to inhibit 50% of DPPH, of 37.30 ± 1.00. The antibacterial capacity of the extracts was evaluated and it was revealed that they were able to inhibit the growth and development of bacteria of the Staphylococcus family. The obtained extract was incorporated in two types of cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water and water-in-oil) and their stability was evaluated and compared with formulations containing synthetic preservatives (BHT and phenoxyethanol). The results of the stability evaluation suggest that the avocado peel extract has the potential to be incorporated in both types of emulsions, acting as an antioxidant and antibacterial agent, proving it to be a viable option to reduce/replace the use of synthetic preservatives. Furthermore, the avocado peel extract proved to be more effective and stable in oil-in-water emulsions. These results highlight the possibility of obtaining sustainable cosmetics, significantly reducing the negative impacts on the environment by the incorporation of extracts sourced from the avocado peel, an interesting source of phenolic compounds, an abundant and low-cost by-product.

Skin Depigmenting Agents in Anti-Aging Cosmetics: A Medicinal Perspective on Emerging Ingredients

Human skin aging results from intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Uneven pigmentation is one of the major changes of extrinsic aging. Many compounds have been tested for depigmenting activity but only a few are actually used by the cosmetic industry, which is continually looking for new ingredients. In this study, the trends in the use of skin depigmenting ingredients in a panel of anti-aging formulations commercialized in the Portuguese pharmacy market were analyzed, by comparing the composition of the products marketed in 2011 with products launched or reformulated in 2018 (59% and 74%, respectively). The analysis of the top 12 ingredients put forward three novelties for 2018: tranexamic acid, bakuchiol, and 4-butylresorcinol. Regarding their mechanisms of action, tranexamic acid inhibits melanin synthesis through inhibition of the plasminogen/plasmin system. Bakuchiol depigmenting efficacy was attributed to the ability to block both α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone and tyrosinase activation, while 4-butylresorcinol exerts its action through the inhibition of both tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1). Industry-optimized and efficient synthetic methodologies that embrace green chemistry, reducing the environmental impact, are commonly used. This analysis aims to bring insights to both formulators, involved in the development of depigmenting cosmetic products, and chemists performing the synthesis of new and existing compounds intended for this purpose.

Phytoestrogens (Resveratrol and Equol) for Estrogen-Deficient Skin-Controversies/Misinformation versus Anti-Aging In Vitro and Clinical Evidence via Nutraceutical-Cosmetics

The overarching theme for this review is perspective. Superfoods (a marketing term for fruits and vegetables, etc.) have a positive connotation, while many superfoods contain phytoestrogens, a term that is alarming to the public and has a negative connotation because phytoestrogens are endocrine-disruptors, even though they are strong antioxidants that have many health benefits. To understand phytoestrogens, this paper provides a brief summary of the characteristics of: (a) estrogens, (b) estrogen receptors (ER), (c) estrogen-deficient skin, (d) how perspective(s) get off track, (e) phytoestrogen food sources, and (f) misconceptions of phytoestrogens and food safety, in general, that influence person(s) away from what is true. Finally, a brief history of cosmetics to nutraceuticals is covered plus the characteristics of phytoestrogens, resveratrol and equol on: (g) estrogen receptor binding, (h) topical and oral dosing, and (i) in vitro, molecular mechanisms and select clinical evidence, where both phytoestrogens (resveratrol and equol) demonstrate promising applications to improve skin health is presented along with future directions of nutraceuticals. Perspective is paramount in understanding the controversies associated with superfoods, phytoestrogens, and endocrine-disruptors because they have both positive and negative connotations. Everyone is exposed to and consumes these molecules everyday regardless of age, gender, or geographic location around the world, and how we understand this is a matter of perspective.

R-Phycoerythrin from Colaconema formosanum (Rhodophyta), an Anti-Allergic and Collagen Promoting Material for Cosmeceuticals

R-phycoerythrin (R-PE), a pigment complex found in red algae, was extracted and purified from a newly identified red alga, Colaconema formosanum, and its bioactivities were examined. It was revealed that R-PE treatment resulted in high cell viability (>70%) to the mammalian cell lines NIH-3T3, RBL-2H3, RAW264.7, and Hs68, and had no effect on cell morphology in NIH-3T3 cells. Its suppression effect was insignificant on the production of IL-6 and TNF-α in lipopolysaccharides-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. However, calcium ionophore A23187-induced β-hexosaminidase release was effectively inhibited in a dose-dependent manner in RBL-2H3 cells. Additionally, it was revealed to be non-irritating to bionic epidermal tissues. Notably, procollagen production was promoted in Hs68 cells. Overall, the data revealed that R-PE purified from C. formosanum exhibits anti-allergic and anti-aging bioactivities with no observed consequential toxicity on multiple mammalian cell lines as well as epidermal tissues, suggesting that this macromolecule is a novel material for potential cosmetic use.

Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The interest in seaweeds for cosmetic, cosmeceutics, and nutricosmetics is increasing based on the demand for natural ingredients. Seaweeds offer advantages in relation to their renewable character, wide distribution, and the richness and versatility of their valuable bioactive compounds, which can be used as ingredients, as additives, and as active agents in the formulation of skin care products. Bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, peptides, amino acids, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, are responsible for the biological properties associated with seaweeds. Seaweed fractions can also offer technical features, such as thickening, gelling, emulsifying, texturizing, or moistening to develop cohesive matrices. Furthermore, the possibility of valorizing industrial waste streams and algal blooms makes them an attractive, low cost, raw and renewable material. This review presents an updated summary of the activities of different seaweed compounds and fractions based on scientific and patent literature.

Marine Ingredients for Sensitive Skin: Market Overview

Marine ingredients are a source of new chemical entities with biological action, which is the reason why they have gained relevance in the cosmetic industry. The facial care category is the most relevant in this industry, and within it, the sensitive skin segment occupies a prominent position. This work analyzed the use of marine ingredients in 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands, as well as their composition and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy. Marine ingredients were used in 27% of the cosmetic products for sensitive skin and included the species Laminaria ochroleuca, Ascophyllum nodosum (brown macroalgae), Asparagopsis armata (red macroalgae), and Chlorella vulgaris (microalgae). Carotenoids, polysaccharides, and lipids are the chemical classes highlighted in these preparations. Two ingredients, namely the Ascophyllum nodosum extract and Asparagopsis armata extracts, present clinical evidence supporting their use for sensitive skin. Overall, marine ingredients used in cosmetics for sensitive skin are proposed to reduce skin inflammation and improve the barrier function. Marine-derived preparations constitute promising active ingredients for sensitive skin cosmetic products. Their in-depth study, focusing on the extracted metabolites, randomized placebo-controlled studies including volunteers with sensitive skin, and the use of extraction methods that are more profitable may provide a great opportunity for the cosmetic industry.

Recent Findings in Azaphilone Pigments

Filamentous fungi are known to biosynthesize an extraordinary range of azaphilones pigments with structural diversity and advantages over vegetal-derived colored natural products such agile and simple cultivation in the lab, acceptance of low-cost substrates, speed yield improvement, and ease of downstream processing. Modern genetic engineering allows industrial production, providing pigments with higher thermostability, water-solubility, and promising bioactivities combined with ecological functions. This review, covering the literature from 2020 onwards, focuses on the state-of-the-art of azaphilone dyes, the global market scenario, new compounds isolated in the period with respective biological activities, and biosynthetic pathways. Furthermore, we discussed the innovations of azaphilone cultivation and extraction techniques, as well as in yield improvement and scale-up. Potential applications in the food, cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and textile industries were also explored.