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Costa JP, Custódio L, Reis CP. Exploring the Potential of Using Marine-Derived Ingredients: From the Extraction to Cutting-Edge Cosmetics. Mar Drugs 2023; 21:620. [PMID: 38132941 PMCID: PMC10744737 DOI: 10.3390/md21120620] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/23/2023] [Revised: 11/21/2023] [Accepted: 11/22/2023] [Indexed: 12/23/2023] Open
Abstract
The growing understanding and knowledge of the potential of marine species, as well as the application of "blue biotechnology" have been motivating new innovative solutions in cosmetics. It is widely noted that that marine species are important sources of compounds with several biological activities that are yet to be discovered. This review explores various biological properties of marine-derived molecules and briefly outlines the main extraction methods. Alongside these, it is well known the legislative and normative framework of cosmetics is increasingly being developed. In this research segment, there is a growing concern with sustainability. In this sense, "blue biotechnology", together with the use of invasive species or marine waste products to obtain new active ingredients, haven been emerging as innovative and sustainable solutions for the future's cosmetics industry. This review also examines the regulatory framework and focus on the recent advancements in "blue biotechnology" and its relevance to the sustainable development of innovative cosmetics.
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Affiliation(s)
- João Pedro Costa
- Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Av. Professor Gama Pinto, 1649-003 Lisboa, Portugal;
| | - Luísa Custódio
- Centre of Marine Sciences, Faculty of Sciences and Technology, University of Algarve, Campus of Gambelas, Ed. 7, 8005-139 Faro, Portugal
| | - Catarina Pinto Reis
- Research Institute for Medicines, iMed.ULisboa, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Av. Professor Gama Pinto, 1649-003 Lisboa, Portugal
- Instituto de Biofísica e Engenharia Biomédica (IBEB), Faculdade de Ciências, Universidade de Lisboa, Campo Grande, 1749-016 Lisboa, Portugal
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Billamboz M, Jawhara S. Anti- Malassezia Drug Candidates Based on Virulence Factors of Malassezia-Associated Diseases. Microorganisms 2023; 11:2599. [PMID: 37894257 PMCID: PMC10609646 DOI: 10.3390/microorganisms11102599] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/11/2023] [Revised: 10/05/2023] [Accepted: 10/17/2023] [Indexed: 10/29/2023] Open
Abstract
Malassezia is a lipophilic unicellular fungus that is able, under specific conditions, to cause severe cutaneous and systemic diseases in predisposed subjects. This review is divided into two complementary parts. The first one discusses how virulence factors contribute to Malassezia pathogenesis that triggers skin diseases. These virulence factors include Malassezia cell wall resistance, lipases, phospholipases, acid sphingomyelinases, melanin, reactive oxygen species (ROS), indoles, hyphae formation, hydrophobicity, and biofilm formation. The second section describes active compounds directed specifically against identified virulence factors. Among the strategies for controlling Malassezia spread, this review discusses the development of aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) antagonists, inhibition of secreted lipase, and fighting biofilms. Overall, this review offers an updated compilation of Malassezia species, including their virulence factors, potential therapeutic targets, and strategies for controlling their spread. It also provides an update on the most active compounds used to control Malassezia species.
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Affiliation(s)
- Muriel Billamboz
- INSERM, CHU Lille, Institut Pasteur Lille, U1167—RID-AGE—Facteurs de Risque et Déterminants Moléculaires des Maladies Liées au Vieillissement, University of Lille, F-59000 Lille, France;
- JUNIA, Health and Environment, Laboratory of Sustainable Chemistry and Health, F-59000 Lille, France
| | - Samir Jawhara
- CNRS, UMR 8576—UGSF—Unité de Glycobiologie Structurale et Fonctionnelle, INSERM U1285, University of Lille, 1 Place Verdun, F-59000 Lille, France
- Medicine Faculty, University of Lille, F-59000 Lille, France
- CHU Lille, Service de Parasitologie Mycologie, Pôle de Biologie Pathologie Génétique, F-59000 Lille, France
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Jayawardhana HHACK, Jayawardena TU, Sanjeewa KKA, Liyanage NM, Nagahawatta DP, Lee HG, Kim JI, Jeon YJ. Marine Algal Polyphenols as Skin Protective Agents: Current Status and Future Prospectives. Mar Drugs 2023; 21:md21050285. [PMID: 37233479 DOI: 10.3390/md21050285] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/31/2023] [Revised: 04/25/2023] [Accepted: 04/28/2023] [Indexed: 05/27/2023] Open
Abstract
The skin is the outermost anatomical barrier, which plays a vital role in the maintenance of internal homeostasis and protection against physical, chemical, and biological detractors. Direct contact with various stimuli leads to several physiological changes that are ultimately important for the growth of the cosmetic industry. Due to the consequences of using synthetic compounds in skincare and cosmeceutical-related industries, the pharmaceutical and scientific communities have recently shifted their focus to natural ingredients. The nutrient-rich value of algae, which are some of the most interesting organisms in marine ecosystems, has attracted attention. Secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds are potential candidates for a wide range of economic applications, including food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. An increasing number of studies have focused on polyphenol compounds owing to their promising biological activities against oxidation, inflammation, allergies, cancers, melanogenesis, aging, and wrinkles. This review summarizes the potential evidence of the beneficial properties and future perspectives of using marine macroalgae-derived polyphenolic compounds for advancing the cosmetic industry.
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Affiliation(s)
- H H A C K Jayawardhana
- Department of Marine Life Sciences, Jeju National University, Jeju 690-756, Republic of Korea
| | - Thilina U Jayawardena
- Department of Chemistry, Biochemistry and Physics, Université du Québec à Trois-Rivières, Trois-Rivières, QC G8Z 4M3, Canada
| | - K K A Sanjeewa
- Faculty of Technology, University of Sri Jayewardenepura, Nugegoda 10250, Sri Lanka
| | - N M Liyanage
- Department of Marine Life Sciences, Jeju National University, Jeju 690-756, Republic of Korea
| | - D P Nagahawatta
- Department of Marine Life Sciences, Jeju National University, Jeju 690-756, Republic of Korea
| | - Hyo-Geun Lee
- Department of Marine Life Sciences, Jeju National University, Jeju 690-756, Republic of Korea
| | - Jae-Il Kim
- Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Pukyong National University, Busan 608-737, Republic of Korea
| | - You-Jin Jeon
- Department of Marine Life Sciences, Jeju National University, Jeju 690-756, Republic of Korea
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Lee MK, Ryu H, Lee JY, Jeong HH, Baek J, Van JY, Kim MJ, Jung WK, Lee B. Potential Beneficial Effects of Sargassum spp. in Skin Aging. Mar Drugs 2022; 20:540. [PMID: 36005543 PMCID: PMC9410049 DOI: 10.3390/md20080540] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/28/2022] [Revised: 08/10/2022] [Accepted: 08/18/2022] [Indexed: 11/21/2022] Open
Abstract
Seaweeds are receiving much attention as a rich source of bioactive compounds with cosmeceutical potential. Recent studies have revealed that Sargassum spp., a genus of brown algae in the family Sargassaceae, has multiple functions in preventing and improving skin aging. Sargassum spp. contains many bioactive compounds, such as fucoidan, fucoxanthin, terpenoids, flavonoids, and meroterpenoids. These Sargassum spp. extracts and derivative compounds have excellent potential for skincare, as they exhibit skin health-promoting properties, including antioxidants, anti-inflammation, whitening, skin barrier repair, and moisturizing. Therefore, searching for bioactive compounds in marine resources such as Sargassum spp. could be an attractive approach to preventing and improving skin aging. The current review focused on the various biological abilities of Sargassum extracts or derived compounds for anti-skin aging.
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Affiliation(s)
- Min-Kyeong Lee
- Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Pukyong National University, Daeyeon-dong, Nam-gu, Busan 48513, Korea
| | - Heeyeon Ryu
- Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Pukyong National University, Daeyeon-dong, Nam-gu, Busan 48513, Korea
| | - Ji Yun Lee
- Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Pukyong National University, Daeyeon-dong, Nam-gu, Busan 48513, Korea
| | - Hyeon Hak Jeong
- Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Pukyong National University, Daeyeon-dong, Nam-gu, Busan 48513, Korea
| | - Jiwon Baek
- Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Pukyong National University, Daeyeon-dong, Nam-gu, Busan 48513, Korea
| | - Ji Yun Van
- Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Pukyong National University, Daeyeon-dong, Nam-gu, Busan 48513, Korea
| | - Myeong-Jin Kim
- Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Pukyong National University, Daeyeon-dong, Nam-gu, Busan 48513, Korea
| | - Won-Kyo Jung
- Division of Biomedical Engineering and Research Center for Marine Integrated Bionics Technology, Pukyong National University, Daeyeon-dong, Nam-gu, Busan 48513, Korea
| | - Bonggi Lee
- Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Pukyong National University, Daeyeon-dong, Nam-gu, Busan 48513, Korea
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