Lysophosphatidylcholine-arbutin complexes form bilayer-like structures

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties

Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products.

IR spectroscopy analysis of pancreatic lipase-related protein 2 interaction with phospholipids: 2. Discriminative recognition of various micellar systems and characterization of PLRP2-DPPC-bile salt complexes

The interaction of pancreatic lipase-related protein 2 (PLRP2) with various micelles containing phospholipids was investigated using pHstat enzyme activity measurements, differential light scattering, size exclusion chromatography (SEC) and transmission IR spectroscopy. Various micelles of 1,2-dipalmitoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DPPC) and lysophosphatidylcholine were prepared with either bile salts (sodium taurodeoxycholate or glycodeoxycholate) or Triton X-100, which are substrate-dispersing agents commonly used for measuring phospholipase activities. PLRP2 displayed a high activity on all phospholipid-bile salt micelles, but was totally inactive on phospholipid-Triton X-100 micelles. These findings clearly differentiate PLRP2 from secreted pancreatic phospholipase A2 which is highly active on both types of micelles. Using an inactive variant of PLRP2, SEC experiments allowed identifying two populations of PLRP2-DPPC-bile salt complexes corresponding to a high molecular weight 1:1 PLRP2-micelle association and to a low molecular weight association of PLRP2 with few monomers of DPPC/bile salts. IR spectroscopy analysis showed how DPPC-bile salt micelles differ from DPPC-Triton X-100 micelles by a higher fluidity of acyl chains and higher hydration/H-bonding of the interfacial carbonyl region. The presence of bile salts allowed observing changes in the IR spectrum of DPPC upon addition of PLRP2 (higher rigidity of acyl chains, dehydration of the interfacial carbonyl region), while no change was observed with Triton X-100. The differences between these surfactants and their impact on substrate recognition by PLRP2 are discussed, as well as the mechanism by which high and low molecular weight PLRP2-DPPC-bile salt complexes may be involved in the overall process of DPPC hydrolysis.

Xenobiotic-urea conjugates; chemical or biological?

1. Although the major pathways involved in drug metabolism have been elucidated, there remain those routes that may be considered as minor, esoteric, or even artifactual. 2. Conjugation with urea, an abundant, non-toxic, small water soluble molecule, is such a disputed and debatable Phase II pathway. 3. The present article collates data gleaned from the literature concerning xenobiotic-urea conjugation, presents pertinent information resurrecting the controversy and poses questions as to the nature of the phenomenon.

Interactions of the amphiphiles arbutin and tryptophan with phosphatidylcholine and phosphatidylethanolamine bilayers in the dry state

BACKGROUND

Water is essential for life, but some organisms can survive complete desiccation, while many more survive partial dehydration during drying or freezing. The function of some protective molecules, such as sugars, has been extensively studied, but much less is known about the effects of amphiphiles such as flavonoids and other aromatic compounds. Amphiphiles may be largely soluble under fully hydrated conditions, but will partition into membranes upon removal of water. Little is known about the effects of amphiphiles on membrane stability and how amphiphile structure and function are related. Here, we have used two of the most intensively studied amphiphiles, tryptophan (Trp) and arbutin (Arb), along with their isolated hydrophilic moieties glycine (Gly) and glucose (Glc) to better understand structure-function relationships in amphiphile-membrane interactions in the dry state.

RESULTS

Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy was used to measure gel-to-liquid crystalline phase transition temperatures (Tm) of liposomes formed from phosphatidylcholine and phosphatidylethanolamine in the presence of the different additives. In anhydrous samples, both Glc and Arb strongly depressed Tm, independent of lipid composition, while Gly had no measurable effect. Trp, on the other hand, either depressed or increased Tm, depending on lipid composition. We found no evidence for strong interactions of any of the compounds with the lipid carbonyl or choline groups, while all additives except Gly seemed to interact with the phosphate groups. In the case of Arb and Glc, this also had a strong effect on the sugar OH vibrations in the FTIR spectra. In addition, vibrations from the hydrophobic indole and phenol moieties of Trp and Arb, respectively, provided evidence for interactions with the lipid bilayers.

CONCLUSIONS

The two amphiphiles Arb and Trp interact differently with dry bilayers. The interactions of Arb are dominated by contributions of the Glc moiety, while the indole governs the effects of Trp. In addition, only Trp-membrane interactions showed a strong influence of lipid composition. Further investigations, using the large structural diversity of plant amphiphiles will help to understand how their structure determines the interaction with membranes and how that influences their biological functions, for example under freezing or dehydration conditions.

Vibrational spectroscopy of biomembranes

Vibrational spectroscopy, commonly associated with IR absorption and Raman scattering, has provided a powerful approach for investigating interactions between biomolecules that make up cellular membranes. Because the IR and Raman signals arise from the intrinsic properties of these molecules, vibrational spectroscopy probes the delicate interactions that regulate biomembranes with minimal perturbation. Numerous innovative measurements, including nonlinear optical processes and confined bilayer assemblies, have provided new insights into membrane behavior. In this review, we highlight the use of vibrational spectroscopy to study lipid-lipid interactions. We also examine recent work in which vibrational measurements have been used to investigate the incorporation of peptides and proteins into lipid bilayers, and we discuss the interactions of small molecules and drugs with membrane structures. Emerging techniques and measurements on intact cellular membranes provide a prospective on the future of vibrational spectroscopic studies of biomembranes.