Is an orthorhombic lateral packing and a proper lamellar organization important for the skin barrier function?

Mechanistic insight into heat enhanced permeation of diclofenac and piroxicam in combination with chemical penetration enhancers across skin

The topical application of heat offers considerable potential for enhancing the delivery of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs across the skin barrier. A better understanding of the mechanisms underpinning the improved skin permeation and how heat can be best used to work with complementary enhancement strategies would help to realise this potential. In this study the effect of heat on the permeation of diclofenac and piroxicam across different membranes, including human skin was investigated along with use of complementary enhancement strategies including selection of formulation pH, drug salt form and inclusion of chemical penetration enhancers. Heat alone improved drug delivery across human skin for both drugs, with larger increases for piroxicam. This increase was produced by improvements in drug release, molecular diffusivity and partitioning into the stratum corneum. In combination with chemical penetration enhancers, heat synergistically increased the skin permeation of diclofenac and piroxicam up to 13 and 40-fold respectively, with the increase in permeation being ascribed primarily to improvements in drug and enhancer partitioning into the stratum corneum. An Arrhenius plot of diclofenac permeation across skin was linear indicating that the orthorhombic to hexagonal stratum corneum lipid packing transition did not have a significant effect on skin permeation in response to heat.

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

Skin Barrier Fine Tuning through Low-Temperature Lipid Chain Transition

The lipids in the mammalian stratum corneum (SC) adopt an unusually rigid arrangement to form a vital barrier preventing water loss and harmful environmental impacts. Just above the physiological temperature, a subset of barrier lipids undergoes a phase transition from a very tight orthorhombic to a looser hexagonal arrangement and vice versa. The purpose of this lipid transition in skin physiology is unknown. Permeability experiments on isolated human SC indicated that the transition affects the activation energy for a model compound that prefers lateral movement along lipid layers but not for water or a large polymer that would cross the SC through the pore pathway. The orthorhombic phase content of SC lipids, as determined by infrared spectroscopy, was also modulated by (de)hydration. Spontaneous rearrangement of human SC lipid monolayers into 10 nm higher multilamellar islets at 32-37 °C but not at room temperature was revealed by atomic force microscopy. Our findings add to our knowledge of fundamental skin physiology suggesting a fine temperature- and hydration-controlled switch from fluid lipids (required for lipid barrier assembly) to rigid and tightly packed lipids in the mature SC (necessary for the water and permeability barriers).

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Effects and Mode of Action of Oleic Acid and Tween 80 on Skin Permeation of Disulfiram

Oral disulfiram (DSF) has been used clinically for alcohol dependence and recently has been found to have antitumor activity. A transdermal delivery system would be useful for maintaining drug concentration and reducing the frequency of administration of DSF for cancer treatment. Penetrating the stratum corneum (SC) barrier is a challenge to the transdermal delivery of DSF. Therefore, we investigated the promoting effects and mechanism of action of the combination of oleic acid (OA) and Tween 80 on the skin permeation of DSF. Hairless mouse skin was exposed to OA and Tween 80, combined in various ratios (1:0, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, and 0:1). A permeation experiment was performed, and total internal reflection infrared spectroscopic measurements, differential scanning calorimetry, and synchrotron radiation X-ray diffraction measurements were taken of the SC with each applied formulation. The combination of OA and Tween 80 further enhanced the absorption-promoting effect of DSF, compared with individual application. The peak of the CH₂ inverse symmetric stretching vibration near the skin surface temperature was shifted by a high frequency due to the application of OA, and DSF solubility increased in response to Tween 80. We believe that the increased fluidity of the intercellular lipids due to OA and the increased solubility of DSF due to Tween 80 promoted the absorption of DSF. Our study clarifies the detailed mechanism of action of the skin permeation and promoting effect of DSF through the combined use of OA and Tween 80, contributing to the development of a transdermal preparation of DSF.

Biomimetic Stratum Corneum Liposome Models: Lamellar Organization and Permeability Studies

The stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin, plays a crucial role as a barrier protecting the underlying cells from external stress. The SC comprises three key components: ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol, along with small fractions of cholesterol sulfate and cholesterol ester. In order to gain a deeper understanding about the interdependence of the two major components, CER and FFA, on the organizational, structural, and functional properties of the SC layer, a library of SC lipid liposome (SCLL) models was developed by mixing CER (phytosphingosine or sphingosine), FFA (oleic acid, palmitic acid, or stearic acid), cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Self-assembly of the SC lipids into lamellar phases was first confirmed by small-angle X-ray scattering. Short periodicity and long periodicity phases were identified for SCLLs containing phytosphingosines and sphingosine CERs, respectively. Furthermore, unsaturation in the CER acyl and FFA chains reduced the lipid conformational ordering and packing density of the liposomal bilayer, which were measured by differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The introduction of unsaturation in the CER and/or FFA chains also impacted the lamellar integrity and permeability. This extensive library of SCLL models exhibiting physiologically relevant lamellar phases with defined structural and functional properties may potentially be used as a model system for screening pharmaceuticals or cosmetic agents.

Topically applied lipid-containing emulsions based on PEGylated emulsifiers: Formulation, characterization, and evaluation of their impact on skin properties ex vivo and in vivo

PEGylated emulsifiers have been largely used in topical formulations for skin research. They have been a continuous study focus in our group as well. According to our previous studies, severe interruptions of the skin barrier were observed with certain types of emulsifiers. To restore the skin barrier function and counteract the effects of emulsifiers, we considered topically delivering lipids into the lipid matrix of the SC. Herein, PEG-20 cetyl ether (C20) -based oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions were developed owing to the stronger interactions of C20 with skin. The lipids containing ceramides (Cers), palmitic acids (PA), and cholesterol with different ratios and combinations were merged into the base emulsion. PEG-40 stearyl ether (S40)-based emulsion was used as a reference as S40 showed negligible impact on SC lipids. The evaluations were conducted ex vivo with confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) regarding the SC lipid, SC thickness, and skin penetration properties. In parallel, the in vivo irritation studies were also implemented including the transepidermal-water-loss (TEWL), skin hydration, and erythema index. The results indicated less SC lipid extraction of topically delivered lipids on ex vivo porcine skin with the addition and ratio of incorporated Cers influencing the extent of formulations counteracting the skin interruption by C20. The ex vivo penetration study showed a similar trend in drug penetration depths. In regards to the in vivo studies, TEWL was demonstrated to be suitable for differentiating the impact on skin barrier properties. The in vivo observations were generally correlated with the ex vivo results. The exact findings in this research can lead us to a better selection of applied lipid components and compositions. Future research will elucidate which type of Cer was predominantly extracted by C20, advancing future formulation development.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Proteomics and lipidomics reveal the protective mechanism of dietary n-3 PUFA supplementation for photoaging

Chronic ultraviolet radiation exposure could induce photoaging, and even carcinogenesis. Dietary omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acid (n-3 PUFA) supplementation has proved to alleviate photoaging and cutaneous carcinoma. Although the exact mechanism remains poorly elucidated, accumulated evidence suggests that the alleviation effect of n-3 PUFA for photoaging is a multifactorial procession characterized by different pathways. Here, we performed a whole-genome proteomics and lipidomics analyses using a self-constructed photoaging mouse model with n-3 PUFA or n-6 PUFA supplementation. Significant alleviation of photoaging was observed, and a total of 88 differentially expressed proteins and 152 differentially expressed lipids were identified in mice with n-3 PUFA supplementation. We found that n-3 PUFA may alleviate photoaging by upregulating Hmmr (hyaluronic acid receptor) expression, which can decrease Mmp9 expression, reducing collagen degradation. As most proteins were associated with lipogenesis and lipid metabolism, we further analyzed the lipidomics data, finding that most triglycerides (93%) showed a significant increase in the n-3 PUFA supplementation group. Our proteomics and lipidomics results indicate that the protective mechanism of n-3 PUFA for photoaging is complicated. Furthermore, the effect of elevated triglycerides by n-3 PUFA supplementation in counteracting skin photoaging cannot be ignored, which will become a new prime target in anti-photoaging.

Roles of Lipids in the Permeability Barriers of Skin and Oral Mucosa

PubMed searches reveal much literature regarding lipids in barrier function of skin and less literature on lipids in barrier function of the oral mucosa. In terrestrial mammals, birds, and reptiles, the skin’s permeability barrier is provided by ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol in the outermost layers of the epidermis, the stratum corneum. This layer consists of about 10–20 layers of cornified cells embedded in a lipid matrix. It effectively prevents loss of water and electrolytes from the underlying tissue, and it limits the penetration of potentially harmful substances from the environment. In the oral cavity, the regions of the gingiva and hard palate are covered by keratinized epithelia that much resemble the epidermis. The oral stratum corneum contains a lipid mixture similar to that in the epidermal stratum corneum but in lower amounts and is accordingly more permeable. The superficial regions of the nonkeratinized oral epithelia also provide a permeability barrier. These epithelial regions do contain ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, which may underlie barrier function. The oral epithelial permeability barriers primarily protect the underlying tissue by preventing the penetration of potentially toxic substances, including microbial products. Transdermal drug delivery, buccal absorption, and lipid-related disease are discussed.

Erythroderma (exfoliative dermatitis). Part 1: underlying causes, clinical presentation and pathogenesis

Erythroderma (exfoliative dermatitis), first described by Von Hebra in 1868, manifests as a cutaneous inflammatory state, with associated skin barrier and metabolic dysfunctions. The annual incidence of erythroderma is estimated to be 1-2 per 100 000 population in Europe with a male preponderance. Erythroderma may present at birth, or may develop acutely or insidiously (due to progression of an underlying primary pathology, including malignancy). Although there is a broad range of diseases that associate with erythroderma, the vast majority of cases result from pre-existing and chronic dermatoses. In the first part of this two-part concise review, we explore the underlying causes, clinical presentation, pathogenesis and investigation of erythroderma, and suggest potential treatment targets for erythroderma with unknown causes.

High concentration of the ester-linked ω-hydroxy ceramide increases the permeability in skin lipid model membranes

The ester-linked ω-hydroxy acyl chain linked to a sphingosine base referred to as CER EOS is essential for the skin barrier lipid organization. While the majority of the skin lipids form a dense, crystalline structure, associated with low permeability, the unsaturated moiety of CER EOS, (either the linoleate or the oleate chain) exists in a liquid phase at the skin's physiological temperature. Thus, the relationship between CER EOS and barrier function is not entirely comprehended. We studied the permeability and lipid organization in skin lipid models, gradually increasing in CER EOS concentration, mixed with non-hydroxy sphingosine-based ceramide (CER NS) in an equimolar ratio of CERs, cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs) mimicking the ratio in the native skin. A significant increase in the orthorhombic-hexagonal phase transition temperature was recorded when CER EOS concentration was raised to 70 mol% of the total CER content and higher, rendering a higher fraction of lipids in the orthorhombic phase at the expense of the hexagonal phase at physiological temperature. The model's permeability did not differ when CER EOS concentration ranged between 10 and 30% but increased significantly at 70% and higher. Using CER EOS with a perdeuterated oleate chain, it was shown that the fraction of lipids in a liquid phase increased with CER EOS concentration, while the neighboring CERs and FFAs remained in a crystalline state. The increased fraction of the liquid phase therefore, had a stronger effect on permeability than the increased fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic phase.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Examining Tail and Headgroup Effects on Binary and Ternary Gel-Phase Lipid Bilayer Structure

The structural properties of two- and three-component gel-phase bilayers were studied using molecular dynamics simulations. The bilayers contain distearoylphosphatidylcholine (DSPC) phospholipids mixed with alcohols and/or fatty acids of varying tail lengths, with carbon chain lengths of 12, 16, and 24 studied. Changes in both headgroup chemistry and tail length are found to affect the balance between steric repulsion and van der Waals attraction within the bilayers, manifesting in different bilayer structural properties. Lipid components are found to be located at different depths within the bilayer depending on both chain length and headgroup chemistry. The highest bilayer ordering and lowest area per tail are found in systems with medium-length tails. While longer tails can enhance van der Waals attractions, the increased tail-length asymmetry is found to induce disorder and reduce tail packing. Bulkier headgroups further increase steric repulsion, as reflected in increased component offsets and reduced tail packing. These findings help explain how bilayer composition affects the structure of gel-phase bilayers.

Hyperalphalipoproteinemic scavenger receptor BI knockout mice exhibit a disrupted epidermal lipid barrier

Scavenger receptor class B type I (SR-BI) mediates the selective uptake of cholesteryl esters (CE) from high-density lipoproteins (HDL). An impaired SR-BI function leads to hyperalphalipoproteinemia with elevated levels of cholesterol transported in the HDL fraction. Accumulation of cholesterol in apolipoprotein B (apoB)-containing lipoproteins has been shown to alter skin lipid composition and barrier function in mice. To investigate whether these hypercholesterolemic effects on the skin also occur in hyperalphalipoproteinemia, we compared skins of wild-type and SR-BI knockout (SR-BI^-/-) mice. SR-BI deficiency did not affect the epidermal cholesterol content and induced only minor changes in the ceramide subclasses. The epidermal free fatty acid (FFA) pool was, however, enriched in short and unsaturated chains. Plasma CE levels strongly correlated with epidermal FFA C18:1 content. The increase in epidermal FFA coincided with downregulation of cholesterol and FFA synthesis genes, suggesting a compensatory response to increased flux of plasma cholesterol and FFAs into the skin. Importantly, the SR-BI^-/- epidermal lipid barrier showed increased permeability to ethyl-paraminobenzoic acid, indicating an impairment of the barrier function. In conclusion, increased HDL-cholesterol levels in SR-BI^-/- mice can alter the epidermal lipid composition and lipid barrier function similarly as observed in hypercholesterolemia due to elevated levels of apoB-containing lipoproteins.

Fatty acid transport protein 4 is required for incorporation of saturated ultralong-chain fatty acids into epidermal ceramides and monoacylglycerols

Fatty acid transport protein 4 (FATP4) is an acyl-CoA synthetase that is required for normal permeability barrier in mammalian skin. FATP4 (SLC27A4) mutations cause ichthyosis prematurity syndrome, a nonlethal disorder. In contrast, Fatp4-/- mice die neonatally from a defective barrier. Here we used electron microscopy and lipidomics to characterize defects in Fatp4-/- mice. Mutants showed lamellar body, corneocyte lipid envelope, and cornified envelope abnormalities. Lipidomics identified two lipids previously speculated to be present in mouse epidermis, sphingosine β-hydroxyceramide and monoacylglycerol; mutants displayed decreased proportions of these and the two ceramide classes that carry ultralong-chain, amide-linked fatty acids (FAs) thought to be critical for barrier function, unbound ω-O-acylceramide and bound ω-hydroxyceramide, the latter constituting the major component of the corneocyte lipid envelope. Other abnormalities included elevated amounts of sphingosine α-hydroxyceramide, phytosphingosine non-hydroxyceramide, and 1-O-acylceramide. Acyl chain length alterations in ceramides also suggested roles for FATP4 in esterifying saturated non-hydroxy and β-hydroxy FAs with at least 25 carbons and saturated or unsaturated ω-hydroxy FAs with at least 30 carbons to CoA. Our lipidomic analysis is the most thorough such study of the Fatp4-/- mouse skin barrier to date, providing information about how FATP4 can contribute to barrier function by regulating fatty acyl moieties in various barrier lipids.

Unravelling effects of relative humidity on lipid barrier formation in human skin equivalents

Relative humidity (RH) levels vary continuously in vivo, although during in vitro generation of three-dimensional human skin equivalents (HSEs) these remain high (90-95%) to prevent evaporation of the cell-culture medium. However, skin functionality is directly influenced by environmental RH. As the barrier formation in HSEs is different, there is a need to better understand the role of cell-culture conditions during the generation of HSEs. In this study, we aim to investigate the effects of RH on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, two types of HSEs were developed at 90% or at 60% RH. Assessments were performed to determine epidermal morphogenesis by immunohistochemical analyses, ceramide composition by lipidomic analysis, and lipid organization by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and small-angle X-ray diffraction. We show that reduction of RH mainly affected the uppermost viable epidermal layers in the HSEs, including an enlargement of the granular cells and induction of epidermal cell activation. Neither the composition nor the organization of the lipids in the intercorneocyte space were substantially altered at reduced RH. In addition, lipid processing from glucosylceramides to ceramides was not affected by reduced RH in HSEs as shown by enzyme expression, enzyme activity, and substrate-to-product ratio. Our results demonstrate that RH directly influences epidermal morphogenesis, albeit the in vitro lipid barrier formation is comparable at 90% and 60% RH.

Shedding light on the effects of 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D3 on epidermal lipid barrier formation in three-dimensional human skin equivalents

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are three dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) in many aspects. Despite the manifold similarities to NHS, a restriction in its applications is the altered in vitro lipid barrier formation, which compromises the barrier functionality. This could be induced by suboptimal cell culturing conditions, which amongst others is the diminished activation of the vitamin D receptor (VDR) signalling pathway. The active metabolite of this signalling pathway is 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D₃ (1,25(OH)₂D₃). An interacting role in the formation of the skin barrier has been ascribed to this pathway, although it remains unresolved to which extent this pathway contributes to the (mal-)formation of the epidermal barrier in HSEs. Our aim is to study whether cell culture medium enriched with 1,25(OH)₂D₃ affects epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Addition of 20 nM 1,25(OH)₂D₃ resulted in activation of the VDR signalling pathway by inducing transcription of VDR target genes (CYP24A and LL37) in keratinocyte monocultures and in HSEs. Characterization of HSEs supplemented with 1,25(OH)₂D₃ using immunohistochemical analyses revealed a high similarity in epidermal morphogenesis and in expression of lipid processing enzymes. The barrier formation was assessed using state-of-the art techniques analysing lipid composition and organization. Addition of 1,25(OH)₂D₃ did not alter the composition of ceramides. Additionally, the lateral and lamellar organization of the lipids was similar, irrespective of supplementation. In conclusion, epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs generated in presence or absence of 1,25(OH)₂D₃ leads to a similar morphogenesis and comparable barrier formation in vitro.

New insight into phase behavior and permeability of skin lipid models based on sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides

The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which consist mainly of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol, is fundamental to the skin barrier function. These lipids assemble into two lamellar phases, known as the long and short periodicity phases (LPP and SPP respectively). The LPP is unique in the SC and is considered important for the skin barrier function. Alterations in CER composition, as well as impaired skin barrier function, are commonly observed in diseased skin, yet the understanding of this relationship remains insufficient. In this study, we have investigated the influence of non-hydroxy and α-hydroxy sphingosine-based CERs and their phytosphingosine counterparts on the permeability and lipid organization of model membranes, which were adjusted in composition to enhance formation of the LPP. The permeability was compared by diffusion studies using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate as a model drug, and the lipid organization was characterized by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. Both the sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based CER models formed the LPP, while the latter exhibited a longer LPP repeat distance. The ethyl-p-aminobenzoate flux across the sphingosine-based CER models was higher when compared to the phytosphingosine counterparts, contrary to the fact that the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based CER model had the lowest chain packing density. The unanticipated low permeability of the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based model is probably associated with a stronger headgroup hydrogen bonding network. Our findings indicate that the increased level of sphingosine-based CERs at the expense of phytosphingosine-based CERs, as observed in the diseased skin, may contribute to the barrier function impairment.

Hypercholesterolemia in young adult APOE-/- mice alters epidermal lipid composition and impairs barrier function

Long-term exposure to hypercholesterolemia induces the development of skin xanthoma's characterized by the accumulation of lipid-laden foam cells in humans and in mice. Early skin changes in response to hypercholesterolemia are however unknown. In this study, we investigated the skin lipid composition and associated barrier function in young adult low-density lipoprotein receptor knockout (LDLR^-/-) and apolipoprotein E knockout (APOE^-/-) mice, two commonly used hypercholesterolemic mouse models characterized by the accumulation of apolipoprotein B containing lipoproteins. No differences were observed on cholesterol content in the epidermis in LDLR^-/- mice nor in the more extremely hypercholesterolemic APOE^-/- mice. Interestingly, the free fatty acid profile in the APOE^-/- epidermis shifted towards shorter and unsaturated chains. Genes involved in the synthesis of cholesterol and fatty acids were downregulated in APOE^-/- skin suggesting a compensation for the higher influx of plasma lipids, most probably as cholesteryl esters. Importantly, in vivo transepidermal water loss and permeability studies with murine lipid model membranes revealed that the lipid composition of the APOE^-/- skin resulted in a reduced skin barrier function. In conclusion, severe hypercholesterolemia associated with increased apolipoprotein B containing lipoproteins affects the epidermal lipid composition and its protective barrier.

State of the art in Stratum Corneum research: The biophysical properties of ceramides

This review is summarizing an important part of the state of the art in stratum corneum research. A complete overview on discoveries about the general biophysical and physicochemical properties of the known ceramide species' is provided. The ceramides are one of the three major components of the lipid matrix and mainly govern its properties and structure. They are shown to exhibit very little redundancy, despite the minor differences in their chemical structure. The results are discussed, compared to each other as well as the current base of knowledge. New interesting aspects and concepts are concluded or suggested. A novel interpretation of the 3-dimensional structure of the lipid matrix and its influence on the barrier function will be discussed. The most important conclusion is the presentation of a new and up to date theoretical model of the nanostructure of the short periodicity phase. The model suggests three perpendicular layers: The rigid head group region, the rigid chain region and, a liquid-like overlapping middle layer. The general principle of the skin barrier function is highlighted in regard to this structure and the ceramides biophysical and physicochemical properties. As a result of these considerations, the entropy vs. enthalpy principle is introduced, shedding light on the function as well as the effectiveness of the skin barrier. Additionally, general ideas to effectively overcome this barrier principle for dermal and transdermal delivery of actives or how to use it for specific targeting of the stratum corneum are proposed.

[The epidermal barrier]

The skin acts as an interface between the body and its surrounding environment. The epidermis, the surface layer of the skin, is chiefly responsible for this interactive protective function. The epidermal barrier may be subdivided into three defensive systems: the photoprotective barrier, the immune barrier, and the physical and chemical barrier of the stratum corneum or horny layer. To protect against harmful ultraviolet radiation, the epidermis has absorption factors such as melanin, produced by melanocytes, and urocanic acid, which is a degradation product of filaggrin. The epidermal immune defence system comprises an innate component, which is rapid but non-specific, together with adaptive response, which is systemic and antigen-specific, initiated by Langerhans cells. The stratum corneum, derived from terminal differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes, plays a key role as a physical and chemical permeability barrier. This horny layer is made up of corneocytes, covered with horny envelopes and linked to one another by corneodesmosomes and by extracellular matrix sheets. The epidermal barrier, which is constantly being renewed, is characterised by its extremely great capacity of adaptation to changing conditions in the environment.

Enhancement of Galantamine HBr Skin Permeation Using Sonophoresis and Limonene-Containing PEGylated Liposomes

This study aimed to investigate the effect of low-frequency sonophoresis (SN) and limonene-containing PEGylated liposomes (PL) on the transdermal delivery of galantamine HBr (GLT). To evaluate the skin penetration mechanism, confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) were employed. The application of SN led to more GLT penetration into and through the skin than GLT solution alone. The liposomes also improved GLT permeation, and 2% limonene-containing PL (PL-LI2%) exhibited the highest GLT permeation, followed by PL-LI1%, PL-LI0.1%, and PL. The CLSM images of PL-LI2% resulted in the highest fluorescence intensity of fluorescent hydrophilic molecules in the deep skin layer, and the rhodamine PE-labeled liposome membrane was distributed in the intercellular region of the stratum corneum (SC). PL-LI2% induced significant changes in intercellular lipids in the SC, whereas SN had no effect on intercellular lipids of the SC. DSC thermograms showed that the greatest decrease in the lipid transition temperature occurred in PL-LI2%-treated SC. SN might improve drug permeation through an intracellular pathway, while limonene-containing liposomes play an important role in delivering GLT through an intercellular pathway by increasing the fluidity of intercellular lipids in the SC. Moreover, a small vesicle size and high membrane fluidity might enhance the transportation of intact vesicles through the skin.

Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin

PURPOSE

To determine whether formulations containing ceramides (including a ceramide with a long hydroxyl acyl chain linked to a linoleate, CER EOS) and fatty acids are able to repair the skin barrier by normalizing the lipid organization in stratum corneum (SC).

METHODS

The formulations were applied on a skin barrier repair model consisting of ex vivo human skin from which SC was removed by stripping. The effect of formulations on the lipid organization and conformational ordering in the regenerated SC were analyzed using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and small angle X-ray diffraction.

RESULTS

Application of the formulation containing only one ceramide on regenerating SC resulted in a higher fraction of lipids adopting an orthorhombic organization. A similar fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic organization was observed after application of a formulation containing two ceramides and a fatty acid on regenerating SC. No effects on the lamellar lipid organization were observed.

CONCLUSIONS

Application of a formulation containing either a single ceramide or two ceramides and a fatty acid on regenerating SC, resulted in a denser lateral lipid packing of the SC lipids in compromised skin. The strongest effect was observed after application of a formulation containing a single ceramide.

ATR-IR study of skin components: Lipids, proteins and water. Part I: Temperature effect

In this work we report the studies of the effect of temperature on skin components, such as lipids, proteins and water. Modifications of lipids structure induced by increasing temperature (from 20 to 90°C) have been studied using ATR-IR (Attenuated Total Reflectance Infrared) spectroscopy, which is a powerful tool for characterization of the molecular structure and properties of tissues, such as skin. Due to the small depth of penetration (0.6-5.6μm), ATR-IR spectroscopy probes only the outermost layer of the skin, i.e. the stratum corneum (SC). The assignment of main spectral features of skin components allows for the determination of phase transitions from the temperature dependencies of band intensities [e.g. ν_as(CH₂) and ν_s(CH₂)]. The phase transitions were determined by using two methods: the first one was based on the first derivative of the Boltzmann function and the second one employed tangent lines of sigmoidal, aforementioned dependencies. The phase transitions in lipids were correlated with modifications of the structure of water and proteins.

Recapitulation of Native Dermal Tissue in a Full-Thickness Human Skin Model Using Human Collagens

OBJECTIVE

Full-thickness skin models comprise a three-dimensional dermal equivalent based on an animal-derived collagen matrix that harbors fibroblasts and an epidermal equivalent formed by keratinocytes. The functionality of both equivalents is influenced by many factors, including extracellular matrix composition and resident cell type. Animal-derived collagens differ in amino acid composition and physicochemical properties from human collagens. This composition could alter the functionality of the dermal equivalent and epidermal morphogenesis with the barrier formation in full-thickness models (FTMs). By replacement of animal-derived collagen for human collagen, we generated and characterized the animal material-free human collagen full-thickness models (hC-FTMs) that better mimic native dermal tissue.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

An isolation procedure to obtain soluble collagen from human abdominal dermis was developed. Both FTMs and hC-FTMs were generated with primary human fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Immunohistochemical analyses with biomarkers for the dermal matrix composition, basement membrane (BM) formation, epidermal proliferation, differentiation, and activation were performed. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition was studied with liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. Lipid lamellar organization was determined by small-angle X-ray diffraction.

RESULTS

The FTMs and hC-FTMs exhibit many similarities, including the dermal matrix structure, BM formation, epidermal basal layer proliferation, and execution of differentiation programs. The SC contains a similar number of corneocyte layers and the same level of lipids. The ceramide chain length distribution and ceramide subclass profile showed only minor differences. Subsequently, this led to an unaltered lamellar organization.

CONCLUSION

The animal material-free hC-FTM is generated successfully using collagens isolated from human abdominal dermis. Utilization of human collagens revealed that (epi-)dermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation resembled that of original FTMs. The hC-FTMs contain a dermal equivalent that mimics the native stromal tissue to a higher extent. Therefore these in vitro skin models can be used as promising tool for research purposes that contribute to animal-free experimentation.

The mechanism of skin lipids influencing skin status

Skin lipids, compose of sebocyte-, keratinocyte-, and microbe- derived lipids, dramatically influence skin status by different mechanisms. (I) Physical chemistry function: They are "mortar" to establish the physico-chemical barrier function of skin; (II) Biochemistry function: They function as signals in the complex signaling network originating at the epidermal level; (III) Microecology function: Sebocyte- and keratinocyte-derived lipids vary the composition of microbial skin flora, and microorganisms metabolize them to produce lipids as signal starting signaling transduction. Importantly, further research needs lipidiomics, more powerful analytical ability and high-throughput manner, to identify skin lipid components into individual species. The validation of lipid structure and function to research the process that lipid species involved in. Additional, the integration of lipidomics data with other omics strategies can develop the power to study the mechanism of skin lipids influencing skin status.

In situ visualization of glucocerebrosidase in human skin tissue: zymography versus activity-based probe labeling

Epidermal β-glucocerebrosidase (GBA1), an acid β-glucosidase normally located in lysosomes, converts (glucosyl)ceramides into ceramides, which is crucial to generate an optimal barrier function of the outermost skin layer, the stratum corneum (SC). Here we report on two developed in situ methods to localize active GBA in human epidermis: i) an optimized zymography method that is less labor intensive and visualizes enzymatic activity with higher resolution than currently reported methods using either substrate 4-methylumbelliferyl-β-D-glucopyranoside or resorufin-β-D-glucopyranoside; and ii) a novel technique to visualize active GBA1 molecules by their specific labeling with a fluorescent activity-based probe (ABP), MDW941. The latter method pro-ved to be more robust and sensitive, provided higher resolution microscopic images, and was less prone to sample preparation effects. Moreover, in contrast to the zymography substrates that react with various β-glucosidases, MDW941 specifically labeled GBA1. We demonstrate that active GBA1 in the epidermis is primarily located in the extracellular lipid matrix at the interface of the viable epidermis and the lower layers of the SC. With ABP-labeling, we observed reduced GBA1 activity in 3D-cultured skin models when supplemented with the reversible inhibitor, isofagomine, irrespective of GBA expression. This inhibition affected the SC ceramide composition: MS analysis revealed an inhibitor-dependent increase in the glucosylceramide:ceramide ratio.

Influence of a Novel Dimeric Ceramide Molecule on the Nanostructure and Thermotropic Phase Behavior of a Stratum Corneum Model Mixture

The stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the skin and is composed of a multilayered assembly of mostly ceramids (Cer), free fatty acids, cholesterol (Chol), and cholesterol sulfate (Chol-S). Because of the tight packing of these lipids, the SC features unique barrier properties defending the skin from environmental influences. Under pathological conditions, where the skin barrier function is compromised, topical application of molecules that rigidify the SC may lead to a restored barrier function. To this end, molecules are required that incorporate into the SC and bring back the original rigidity of the skin barrier. Here, we investigated the influence of a novel dimeric ceramide (dim-Cer) molecule designed to feature a long, rigid hydrocarbon chain ideally suited to forming an orthorhombic lipid phase. The influence of this molecules on the thermotropic phase behavior of a SC mixture consisting of Cer[AP18] (55 wt %), cholesterol (Chol, 25 wt %), steric acid (SA, 15 wt %), and cholesterol sulfate (Chol-S, 5 wt %) was studied using a combination of neutron diffraction and ²H NMR spectroscopy. These methods provide detailed insights into the packing properties of the lipids in the SC model mixture. Dim-Cer remains in an all-trans state of the membrane-spanning lipid chain at all investigated temperatures, but the influence on the phase behavior of the other lipids in the mixture is marginal. Biophysical experiments are complemented by permeability measurements in model membranes and human skin. The latter, however, indicates that dim-Cer only partially provides the desired effect on membrane permeability, necessitating further optimization of its structure for medical applications.

Improved epidermal barrier formation in human skin models by chitosan modulated dermal matrices

Full thickness human skin models (FTMs) contain an epidermal and a dermal equivalent. The latter is composed of a collagen dermal matrix which harbours fibroblasts. Current epidermal barrier properties of FTMs do not fully resemble that of native human skin (NHS), which makes these human skin models less suitable for barrier related studies. To further enhance the resemblance of NHS for epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation, we modulated the collagen dermal matrix with the biocompatible polymer chitosan. Herein, we report that these collagen-chitosan FTMs (CC-FTMs) possess a well-organized epidermis and maintain both the early and late differentiation programs as in FTMs. Distinctively, the epidermal cell activation is reduced in CC-FTMs to levels observed in NHS. Dermal-epidermal interactions are functional in both FTM types, based on the formation of the basement membrane. Evaluation of the barrier structure by the organization of the extracellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum revealed an elongated repeat distance of the long periodicity phase. The ceramide composition exhibited a higher resemblance of the NHS, based on the carbon chain-length distribution and subclass profile. The inside-out barrier functionality indicated by the transepidermal water loss is significantly improved in the CC-FTMs. The expression of epidermal barrier lipid processing enzymes is marginally affected, although more restricted to a single granular layer. The novel CC-FTM resembles the NHS more closely, which makes them a promising tool for epidermal barrier related studies.

Omega-O-Acylceramides in Skin Lipid Membranes: Effects of Concentration, Sphingoid Base, and Model Complexity on Microstructure and Permeability

Omega-O-acylceramides (acylCer), a subclass of sphingolipids with an ultralong N-acyl chain (from 20 to 38 carbons, most usually 30 and 32 carbons), are crucial components of the skin permeability barrier. AcylCer are involved in the formation of the long periodicity lamellar phase (LPP, 12-13 nm), which is essential for preventing water loss from the body. Lower levels of acylCer and LPP accompany skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, lamellar ichthyosis, and psoriasis. We studied how the concentration and structure of acylCer influence the organization and permeability barrier properties of model lipid membranes. For simple model membranes composed of the sphingosine-containing acylCer (EOS), N-lignoceroyl sphingosine, lignoceric acid, cholesterol (Chol), and cholesteryl sulfate (CholS), the LPP formed at 10% Cer EOS (of the total Cer) and the short periodicity phase disappeared at 30% Cer EOS. Surprisingly, membranes with the LPP had higher permeabilities than the control membrane without acylCer. In the complex models consisting of acylCer (EOS, phytosphingosine EOP, dihydrosphingosine EOdS, or their mixture; at 10% of the total Cer), a six-component Cer mixture, a free fatty acid mixture, cholesterol (Chol), and cholesteryl sulfate (CholS), acylCer decreased the membrane permeability to model permeants (with the strongest effects for acylCer EOP and EOdS) when compared with the permeability of the control membrane without acylCer. However, in the complex model, only a mixture of acylCer EOS, EOdS, and EOP and not the individual acylCer formed both the LPP and orthorhombic chain packing at the 10% level. Thus, the relationships between acylCer, LPP formation, and permeability barrier function are not trivial. Lipid heterogeneity is essential-only the most complex model with nine Cer subclasses mimicked both the organization and permeability of stratum corneum lipid membranes.

Ceramide synthase 4 is highly expressed in involved skin of patients with atopic dermatitis

BACKGROUND

Ceramide is a crucial lipid in the stratum corneum (SC) which maintains the barrier function and hydration of the skin. In atopic dermatitis (AD) patients who have defective skin barrier function, ceramide levels are altered. We previously reported that although the amount of total ceramide was lower in involved skin compared with uninvolved skin of AD patients and with healthy control skin, the amounts of smaller ceramide species of Cer[NS] (<40 total carbons, which are total carbons of both sphingoid base and amide-linked fatty acid), especially Cer[NS] with 34 total carbons (C34-Cer[NS]), were higher. However, the enzyme(s) that produces the higher levels of smaller ceramide species in involved skin of AD patients was unclear.

OBJECTIVE

To identify the enzyme(s) that produces higher levels of smaller ceramide species of Cer[NS] in the involved skin of AD patients.

METHODS

Eight female Caucasian subjects who were diagnosed with AD on their arms (age range: 21-45 years) were enroled in this study. We compared ceramide levels in the SC and the expression levels of enzymes involved in ceramide metabolism using real-time PCR and immunohistochemistry between involved and uninvolved skin of AD patients.

RESULTS

Level of mRNA encoding ceramide synthase 4 (CERS4), which is one of the enzymes that synthesize ceramide from a sphingoid base and an amide-linked fatty acid, was significantly higher in involved skin than in uninvolved skin (P < 0.01). Additionally, the protein expression level of CERS4 in the epidermis was also higher in involved skin compared with uninvolved skin. The expression level of CERS4 correlated with the amount of C34-Cer[NS] (P < 0.01) and the skin hydration value (P < 0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

The elevated expression level of CERS4 contributes to the increase of C34-Cer[NS] and the impaired SC barrier function in involved skin of AD patients.

Free fatty acids chain length distribution affects the permeability of skin lipid model membranes

The lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC) plays an important role in the barrier function of the skin. The main lipid classes in this lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The aim of this study was to determine whether a variation in CER subclass composition and chain length distribution of FFAs affect the permeability of this matrix. To examine this, we make use of lipid model membranes, referred to as stratum corneum substitute (SCS). We prepared SCS containing i) single CER subclass with either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs and CHOL, or ii) a mixture of various CER subclasses with either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs and CHOL. In vitro permeation studies were performed using ethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid (E-PABA) as a model drug. The flux of E-PABA across the SCS containing the mixture of FFAs was higher than that across the SCS containing a single FA with a chain length of 24 C atoms (FA C24), while the E-PABA flux was not effected by the CER composition. To select the underlying factors for the changes in permeability, the SCSs were examined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and Small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS). All lipid models demonstrated a similar phase behavior. However, when focusing on the conformational ordering of the individual FFA chains, the shorter chain FFA (with a chain length of 16, 18 or 20 C atoms forming only 11m/m% of the total FFA level) had a higher conformational disordering, while the conformational ordering of the chains of the CER and FA C24 and FA C22 hardly did not change irrespective of the composition of the SCS. In conclusion, the conformational mobility of the short chain FFAs present only at low levels in the model SC lipid membranes has a great impact on the permeability of E-PABA.

Probing the Role of Ceramide Headgroup Polarity in Short-Chain Model Skin Barrier Lipid Mixtures by ²H Solid-State NMR Spectroscopy

The thermoptropic phase behaviors of two stratum corneum model lipid mixtures composed of equimolar contributions of either Cer[NS18] or Cer[NP18] with stearic acid and cholesterol were compared. Each component of the mixture was specifically deuterated such that the temperature-dependent (2)H NMR spectra allowed disentanglement of the complicated phase polymorphism of these lipid mixtures. While Cer[NS] is based on the sphingosine backbone, Cer[NP] features a phytosphingosine, which introduces an additional hydroxyl group into the headgroup of the ceramide and abolishes the double bond. From the NMR spectra, the individual contributions of all lipids to the respective phases could be determined. The comparison of the two lipid mixtures reveals that Cer[NP] containing mixtures have a tendency to form more fluid phases. It is concluded that the additional hydroxyl group of the phytosphingosine-containing ceramide Cer[NP18] in mixture with chain-matched stearic acid and cholesterol creates a packing defect that destabilizes the orthorhombic phase state of canonical SC mixtures. This steric clash favors the gel phase and promotes formation of fluid phases of Cer[NP] containing lipid mixtures at lower temperature compared to those containing Cer[NS18].

Ceramides with a pentadecasphingosine chain and short acyls have strong permeabilization effects on skin and model lipid membranes

The composition and organization of stratum corneum lipids play an essential role in skin barrier function. Ceramides represent essential components of this lipid matrix; however, the importance of the individual structural features in ceramides is not fully understood. To probe the structure-permeability relationships in ceramides, we prepared analogs of N-lignoceroylsphingosine with shortened sphingosine (15 and 12 carbons) and acyl chains (2, 4 and 6 carbons) and studied their behavior in skin and in model lipid membranes. Ceramide analogs with pentadecasphingosine (15C) chains were more barrier-perturbing than 12C- and 18C-sphingosine ceramides; the greatest effects were found with 4 to 6C acyls (up to 15 times higher skin permeability compared to an untreated control and up to 79 times higher permeability of model stratum corneum lipid membranes compared to native very long-chain ceramides). Infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids and X-ray powder diffraction showed surprisingly similar behavior of the short ceramide membranes in terms of lipid chain order and packing, phase transitions and domain formation. The high- and low-permeability membranes differed in their amide I band shape and lamellar organization. These skin and membrane permeabilization properties of some short ceramides may be explored, for example, for the rational design of permeation enhancers for transdermal drug delivery.

Phase behavior of skin lipid mixtures: the effect of cholesterol on lipid organization

The lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the upper layer of the skin, plays a critical role in the skin barrier. The matrix consists of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). In human SC, these lipids form two coexisting crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 6 and 13 nm. In the studies reported here, we investigated the effect of CHOL on lipid organization in each of these lamellar phases separately. For this purpose, we used lipid model mixtures. Our studies revealed that CHOL is imperative for the formation of each of the lamellar phases. At low CHOL levels, the formation of the lamellar phases was dramatically changed: a minimum 0.2 CHOL level in the CER/CHOL/FFA (1 : 0.2 : 1) mixture is required for the formation of each of the lamellar phases. Furthermore, CHOL enhances the formation of the highly dense orthorhombic lateral packing. The gradual increment of CHOL increases the fraction of lipids forming the very dense orthorhombic lateral packing. Therefore, these studies demonstrate that CHOL is an indispensable component of the SC lipid matrix and is of fundamental importance for appropriate dense lipid organization and thus important for the skin barrier function.

The physical chemistry of the stratum corneum lipids

This article summarizes the current knowledge of the composition, self-assembly, and molecular organization of the stratum corneum (SC) lipids, reviews the evidence connecting these parameters and the barrier properties of human skin, and outlines the immediate issues in the field of SC lipid research.

The importance of free fatty acid chain length for the skin barrier function in atopic eczema patients

An important feature of atopic eczema (AE) is a decreased skin barrier function. The stratum corneum (SC) lipids - comprised of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs) and cholesterol - fulfil a predominant role in the skin barrier function. In this clinical study, the carbon chain length distribution of SC lipids (FFAs and CERs) and their importance for the lipid organization and skin barrier function were examined in AE patients and compared with control subjects. A reduction in FFA chain length and an increase in unsaturated FFAs are observed in non-lesional and lesional SC of AE patients. The reduction in FFA chain length associates with a reduced CER chain length, suggesting a common synthetic pathway. The lipid chain length reduction correlates with a less dense lipid organization and a decreased skin barrier function. All changes are more pronounced in lesional SC compared with non-lesional skin. No association was observed between lipid properties and filaggrin mutations, an important predisposing factor for developing AE. The results of this study demonstrate an altered SC lipid composition and signify the importance of these changes (specifically regarding the CER and FFA chain lengths) for the impaired skin barrier function in AE. This provides insights into epidermal lipid metabolism as well as new opportunities for skin barrier repair.

Molecular interactions of plant oil components with stratum corneum lipids correlate with clinical measures of skin barrier function

Plant-derived oils consisting of triglycerides and small amounts of free fatty acids (FFAs) are commonly used in skincare regimens. FFAs are known to disrupt skin barrier function. The objective of this study was to mechanistically study the effects of FFAs, triglycerides and their mixtures on skin barrier function. The effects of oleic acid (OA), glyceryl trioleate (GT) and OA/GT mixtures on skin barrier were assessed in vivo through measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and fluorescein dye penetration before and after a single application. OA's effects on stratum corneum (SC) lipid order in vivo were measured with infrared spectroscopy through application of perdeuterated OA (OA-d34 ). Studies of the interaction of OA and GT with skin lipids included imaging the distribution of OA-d34 and GT ex vivo with IR microspectroscopy and thermodynamic analysis of mixtures in aqueous monolayers. The oil mixtures increased both TEWL and fluorescein penetration 24 h after a single application in an OA dose-dependent manner, with the highest increase from treatment with pure OA. OA-d34 penetrated into skin and disordered SC lipids. Furthermore, the ex vivo IR imaging studies showed that OA-d34 permeated to the dermal/epidermal junction while GT remained in the SC. The monolayer experiments showed preferential interspecies interactions between OA and SC lipids, while the mixing between GT and SC lipids was not thermodynamically preferred. The FFA component of plant oils may disrupt skin barrier function. The affinity between plant oil components and SC lipids likely determines the extent of their penetration and clinically measurable effects on skin barrier functions.