Ceramides with a pentadecasphingosine chain and short acyls have strong permeabilization effects on skin and model lipid membranes

Skin Lipid Barrier: Structure, Function and Metabolism

Lipids are important skin components that provide, together with proteins, barrier function of the skin. Keratinocyte terminal differentiation launches unique metabolic changes to lipid metabolism that result in the predominance of ceramides within lipids of the stratum corneum (SC)-the very top portion of the skin. Differentiating keratinocytes form unique ceramides that can be found only in the skin, and generate specialized extracellular structures known as lamellae. Lamellae establish tight hydrophobic layers between dying keratinocytes to protect the body from water loss and also from penetration of allergens and bacteria. Genetic and immunological factors may lead to the failure of keratinocyte terminal differentiation and significantly alter the proportion between SC components. The consequence of such changes is loss or deterioration of skin barrier function that can lead to pathological changes in the skin. This review summarizes our current understanding of the role of lipids in skin barrier function. It also draws attention to the utility of testing SC for lipid and protein biomarkers to predict future onset of allergic skin diseases.

Modulating lipid bilayer permeability and structure: Impact of hydrophobic chain length, C-3 hydroxyl group, and double bond in sphingosine

Sphingosine, an amphiphilic molecule, plays a pivotal role as the core structure of sphingolipids, essential constituents of cell membranes. Its unique capability to enhance the permeability of lipid membranes profoundly influences crucial life processes. The molecular structure of sphingosine dictates its mode of entry into lipid bilayers and governs its interactions with lipids, thereby determining membrane permeability. However, the incomplete elucidation of the relationship between the molecular structure of sphingosine and the permeability of lipid membranes persists due to challenges associated with synthesizing sphingosine molecules. A series of sphingosine-derived molecules, featuring diverse hydrophobic chain lengths and distinct headgroup structure, were meticulously designed and successfully synthesized. These molecules were employed to investigate the permeability of large unilamellar vesicles, functioning as model lipid bilayers. With a decrease in the hydrophobic chain length of sphingosine from C15 to C11, the transient leakage ratio of vesicle contents escalated from ∼ 13 % to ∼ 28 %. Although the presence of double bond did not exert a pronounced influence on transient leakage, it significantly affected the continuous leakage ratio. Conversely, modifying the chirality of the C-3 hydroxyl group gives the opposite result. Notably, methylation at the C-3 hydroxyl significantly elevates transient leakage while suppressing the continuous leakage ratio. Additionally, sphingosines that significantly affect vesicle permeability tend to have a more pronounced impact on cell viability. Throughout this leakage process, the charge state of sphingosine-derived molecule aggregates in the solution emerged as a pivotal factor influencing vesicle permeability. Fluorescence lifetime experiments further revealed discernible variations in the effect of sphingosine molecular structure on the mobility of hydrophobic regions within lipid bilayers. These observed distinctions emphasize the impact of molecular structure on intermolecular interactions, extending to the microscopic architecture of membranes, and underscore the significance of subtle alterations in molecular structure and their associated aggregation behaviors in governing membrane permeability.

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

Expert consensus on ceramides containing skincare in newborns and infants and potential mitigation of atopic dermatitis

INTRODUCTION

The vulnerable skin of neonates and infants is still developing anatomically and functionally and more susceptible to skin barrier disruption. The current consensus paper explores challenges in caring for neonates and infants' skin, skincare use and evaluates the role of ceramides (CERs) containing cleansers and moisturizers.

EVIDENCE AQUISITION

A panel of eight clinicians who treat neonates and infants developed a consensus paper on new-born and infant skin barrier integrity and CERs-containing skincare importance. The consensus process consisted of a modified Delphi technique. The selected information from the literature searches, coupled with the panel's opinion and experience, was used to adopt statements to provide clinical data for paediatric dermatologists, dermatologists, and paediatric healthcare providers who treat neonates and infants.

EVIDENCE SYNTHESIS

Increasingly, evidence supports skincare starting early in life, recognizing the benefits of ongoing daily use of non-alkaline cleansers and moisturizers to maintain skin barrier function. Skincare for neonates and infants should be safe, effective, and fragrance as well as sensitizing agent-free. Skincare with CERs may benefit the stratum corneum's lipid and water content.

CONCLUSIONS

When applied from birth onwards, gentle cleansers and moisturizers containing barrier lipids help maintain the protective skin barrier and soothe the skin with long-term moisturizing benefits.

Lipidomic landscape in cancer: Actionable insights for membrane-based therapy and diagnoses

Cancer cells display altered cellular lipid metabolism, including disruption in endogenous lipid synthesis, storage, and exogenous uptake for membrane biogenesis and functions. Altered lipid metabolism and, consequently, lipid composition impacts cellular function by affecting membrane structure and properties, such as fluidity, rigidity, membrane dynamics, and lateral organization. Herein, we provide an overview of lipid membranes and how their properties affect cellular functions. We also detail how the rewiring of lipid metabolism impacts the lipidomic landscape of cancer cell membranes and influences the characteristics of cancer cells. Furthermore, we discuss how the altered cancer lipidome provides cues for developing lipid-inspired innovative therapeutic and diagnostic strategies while improving our limited understanding of the role of lipids in cancer initiation and progression. We also present the arcade of membrane characterization techniques to cement their relevance in cancer diagnosis and monitoring of treatment response.

Two- and Three-Dimensional Physical-Chemical Characterization of CER[AP]: A Study of Stereochemistry and Chain Symmetry

The stratum corneum represents the first skin barrier against chemical and physical damage. These unique properties are based on its peculiar lipid composition with ceramides (CERs) as the main protagonists. In this study, the structural and chemical properties of the α-OH phytosphingosine [AP] CER class have been investigated. α-OH CERs are present in the stratum corneum in their d-forms; however, in most model systems the diastereomer mixture with the synthetically produced l-form is used. The d-form is well-known to form a hydrogen bonding network that helps to reduce the permeability of the lipid matrix, while the l-form does not show any hydrogen bonding network formation. In this paper, 2D (monolayers) and 3D (aqueous dispersions) models have been used to thoroughly study the physical-chemical behaviors of CER[AP] diastereomers taking into account how the symmetry of the chain pattern influences the behavior of the molecules. The chains of both diastereomers arrange in an oblique unit cell, but only the d-CER[AP] forms a supramolecular lattice (subgel phase) in both model systems. Interestingly, the chain pattern does not play any role in structure formation since the hydrogen bonding network dictates the packing properties. The 1:1 mixture of the diastereomers phase separates into two domains: one is composed of practically pure d-form and the other one is composed of a mixture of the l-form with a certain amount of d-form molecules.

Effects of (R)- and (S)-α-Hydroxylation of Acyl Chains in Sphingosine, Dihydrosphingosine, and Phytosphingosine Ceramides on Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cers) with α-hydroxylated acyl chains comprise about a third of all extractable skin Cers and are required for permeability barrier homeostasis. We have probed here the effects of Cer hydroxylation on their behavior in lipid models comprising the major SC lipids, Cer/free fatty acids (C ₁₆-C ₂₄)/cholesterol, and a minor component, cholesteryl sulfate. Namely, Cers with (R)-α-hydroxy lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer AS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer AdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer AP) were compared to their unnatural (S)-diastereomers and to Cers with non-hydroxylated lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer NdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer NP). By comparing several biophysical parameters (lamellar organization by X-ray diffraction, chain order, lateral packing, phase transitions, and lipid mixing by infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids) and the permeabilities of these models (water loss and two permeability markers), we conclude that there is no general or common consequence of Cer α-hydroxylation. Instead, we found a rich mix of effects, highly dependent on the sphingoid base chain, configuration at the α-carbon, and permeability marker used. We found that the model membranes with unnatural Cer (S)-AS have fewer orthorhombically packed lipid chains than those based on the (R)-diastereomer. In addition, physiological (R)-configuration decreases the permeability of membranes, with Cer (R)-AdS to theophylline, and increases the lipid chain order in model systems with natural Cer (R)-AP. Thus, each Cer subclass makes a distinct contribution to the structural organization and function of the skin lipid barrier.

C6 Ceramide (d18:1/6:0) as a Novel Treatment of Cutaneous T Cell Lymphoma

Cutaneous T cell lymphomas (CTCLs) represent a heterogeneous group of T cell lymphomas that primarily affect the skin. The most frequent forms of CTCL are mycosis fungoides and Sézary syndrome. Both are characterized by frequent recurrence, developing chronic conditions and high mortality with a lack of a curative treatment. In this study, we evaluated the effect of short-chain, cell-permeable C6 Ceramide (C6Cer) on CTCL cell lines and keratinocytes. C6Cer significantly reduced cell viability of CTCL cell lines and induced cell death via apoptosis and necrosis. In contrast, primary human keratinocytes and HaCaT keratinocytes were less affected by C6Cer. Both keratinocyte cell lines showed higher expressions of ceramide catabolizing enzymes and HaCaT keratinocytes were able to metabolize C6Cer faster and more efficiently than CTCL cell lines, which might explain the observed protective effects. Along with other existing skin-directed therapies, C6Cer could be a novel well-tolerated drug for the topical treatment of CTCL.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Behavior of 1-Deoxy-, 3-Deoxy- and N-Methyl-Ceramides in Skin Barrier Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cer) are essential components of the skin permeability barrier. To probe the role of Cer polar head groups involved in the interfacial hydrogen bonding, the N-lignoceroyl sphingosine polar head was modified by removing the hydroxyls in C-1 (1-deoxy-Cer) or C-3 positions (3-deoxy-Cer) and by N-methylation of amide group (N-Me-Cer). Multilamellar skin lipid models were prepared as equimolar mixtures of Cer, lignoceric acid and cholesterol, with 5 wt% cholesteryl sulfate. In the 1-deoxy-Cer-based models, the lipid species were separated into highly ordered domains (as found by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy) resulting in similar water loss but 4–5-fold higher permeability to model substances compared to control with natural Cer. In contrast, 3-deoxy-Cer did not change lipid chain order but promoted the formation of a well-organized structure with a 10.8 nm repeat period. Yet both lipid models comprising deoxy-Cer had similar permeabilities to all markers. N-Methylation of Cer decreased lipid chain order, led to phase separation, and improved cholesterol miscibility in the lipid membranes, resulting in 3-fold increased water loss and 10-fold increased permeability to model compounds compared to control. Thus, the C-1 and C-3 hydroxyls and amide group, which are common to all Cer subclasses, considerably affect lipid miscibility and chain order, formation of periodical nanostructures, and permeability of the skin barrier lipid models.

Permeation enhancers in transdermal drug delivery: benefits and limitations

Introduction: Transdermal drug delivery has several clinical benefits over conventional routes of drug administration. To open the transdermal route for a wider range of drugs, including macromolecules, numerous physical and chemical techniques to overcome the natural low skin permeability have been developed.Areas covered: This review focuses on permeation enhancers (penetration enhancers, percutaneous absorption promoters or accelerants), which are chemicals that increase drug flux through the skin barrier. First, skin components, drug permeation pathways, and drug properties are introduced. Next, we discuss properties of enhancers, their various classifications, structure-activity relationships, mechanisms of action, reversibility and toxicity, biodegradable enhancers, and synergistic enhancer combinations.Expert opinion: Overcoming the remarkable skin barrier properties in an efficient, temporary and safe manner remains a challenge. High permeation-enhancing potency has long been perceived to be associated with toxicity and irritation potential of such compounds, which has limited their further development. In addition, the complexity of enhancer interactions with skin, formulation and drug, along with their vast chemical diversity hampered understanding of their mechanisms of action. The recent development in the field revealed highly potent yet safe enhancers or enhancer combinations, which suggest that enhancer-aided transdermal drug delivery has yet to reach its full potential.

Role of Ceramides in Drug Delivery

Ceramides belong to the sphingolipid group of lipids, which serve as both intracellular and intercellular messengers and as regulatory molecules that play essential roles in signal transduction, inflammation, angiogenesis, and metabolic disorders such as diabetes, neurodegenerative diseases, and cancer cell degeneration. Ceramides also play an important structural role in cell membranes by increasing their rigidity, creating micro-domains (rafts and caveolae), and altering membrane permeability; all these events are involved in the cell signaling. Ceramides constitute approximately half of the lipid composition in the human skin contributing to barrier function as well as epidermal signaling as they affect both proliferation and apoptosis of keratinocytes. Incorporation of ceramides in topical preparations as functional lipids appears to alter skin barrier functions. Ceramides also appear to enhance the bioavailability of drugs by acting as lipid delivery systems. They appear to regulate the ocular inflammation signaling, and external ceramides have shown relief in the anterior and posterior eye disorders. Ceramides play a structural role in liposome formulations and enhance the cellular uptake of amphiphilic drugs, such as chemotherapies. This review presents an overview of the various biological functions of ceramides, and their utility in topical, oral, ocular, and chemotherapeutic drug delivery.

Effect of Ceramide Tail Length on the Structure of Model Stratum Corneum Lipid Bilayers

Lipid bilayers composed of non-hydroxy sphingosine ceramide (CER NS), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs), which are components of the human skin barrier, are studied via molecular dynamics simulations. Since mixtures of these lipids exist in dense gel phases with little molecular mobility at physiological conditions, care must be taken to ensure that the simulations become decorrelated from the initial conditions. Thus, we propose and validate an equilibration protocol based on simulated tempering, in which the simulation takes a random walk through temperature space, allowing the system to break out of metastable configurations and hence become decorrelated from its initial configuration. After validating the equilibration protocol, which we refer to as random-walk molecular dynamics, the effects of the lipid composition and ceramide tail length on bilayer properties are studied. Systems containing pure CER NS, CER NS + CHOL, and CER NS + CHOL + FFA, with the CER NS fatty acid tail length varied within each CER NS-CHOL-FFA composition, are simulated. The bilayer thickness is found to depend on the structure of the center of the bilayer, which arises as a result of the tail-length asymmetry between the lipids studied. The hydrogen bonding between the lipid headgroups and with water is found to change with the overall lipid composition, but is mostly independent of the CER fatty acid tail length. Subtle differences in the lateral packing of the lipid tails are also found as a function of CER tail length. Overall, these results provide insight into the experimentally observed trend of altered barrier properties in skin systems where there are more CERs with shorter tails present.

Probing the interactions among sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides with non- and alpha-hydroxylated acyl chains in skin lipid model membranes

Ceramides (Cers) are significant constituents of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost skin layer responsible for skin barrier properties. Cers are a heterogeneous group of lipids whose mutual interactions are still unclear. To better understand these interactions, we characterized model membranes containing stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and one or more of the following ceramides: N-stearoyl-sphingosine (CerNS), N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerNP) and N-(2-hydroxy)stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerAP). Small angle X-ray scattering and FTIR spectroscopy were used to study lipid arrangement, phase separation and thermotropic behaviour. In the one-Cer systems, the membranes with CerNP showed strong hydrogen bonding and significant phase separation, even after phase transition, while the systems containing CerAP and CerNS had increased lipid miscibility. The multi-Cer systems exhibited different behaviour. In particular, the membrane containing all three Cers was a highly miscible system with narrow one-step phase transition, which, of all the studied samples, occurred at the lowest temperatures. Our results show that even a small variation in Cer structure results in substantially different phase behaviour, which is further affected by the presence of other Cer subclasses. Interestingly, the phase behaviour of the most complex three-Cer system was simpler than that of the others, highlighting the importance of lipid diversity in real SC.

State of the art in Stratum Corneum research: The biophysical properties of ceramides

This review is summarizing an important part of the state of the art in stratum corneum research. A complete overview on discoveries about the general biophysical and physicochemical properties of the known ceramide species' is provided. The ceramides are one of the three major components of the lipid matrix and mainly govern its properties and structure. They are shown to exhibit very little redundancy, despite the minor differences in their chemical structure. The results are discussed, compared to each other as well as the current base of knowledge. New interesting aspects and concepts are concluded or suggested. A novel interpretation of the 3-dimensional structure of the lipid matrix and its influence on the barrier function will be discussed. The most important conclusion is the presentation of a new and up to date theoretical model of the nanostructure of the short periodicity phase. The model suggests three perpendicular layers: The rigid head group region, the rigid chain region and, a liquid-like overlapping middle layer. The general principle of the skin barrier function is highlighted in regard to this structure and the ceramides biophysical and physicochemical properties. As a result of these considerations, the entropy vs. enthalpy principle is introduced, shedding light on the function as well as the effectiveness of the skin barrier. Additionally, general ideas to effectively overcome this barrier principle for dermal and transdermal delivery of actives or how to use it for specific targeting of the stratum corneum are proposed.

Effects of Ceramide and Dihydroceramide Stereochemistry at C-3 on the Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Membranes

Ceramides (Cer) are key components of the skin permeability barrier. Sphingosine-based CerNS and dihydrosphingosine-based CerNdS (dihydroCer) have two chiral centers; however, the importance of the correct stereochemistry in the skin barrier Cer is unknown. We investigated the role of the configuration at C-3 of CerNS and CerNdS in the organization and permeability of model skin lipid membranes. Unnatural l-threo-CerNS and l-threo-CerNdS with 24-C acyl chains were synthesized and, along with their natural d-erythro-isomers, incorporated into membranes composed of major stratum corneum lipids (Cer, free fatty acids, cholesterol, and cholesteryl sulfate). The membrane microstructure was investigated by X-ray powder diffraction and infrared spectroscopy, including deuterated free fatty acids. Inversion of the C-3 configuration in CerNS and CerNdS increased phase transition temperatures, had no significant effects on lamellar phases, but also decreased the proportion of orthorhombic packing and decreased lipid mixing in the model membranes. These changes in membrane organization resulted in membrane permeabilities that ranged from unchanged to 5-fold higher (depending on the permeability markers, namely, water loss, electrical impedance, flux of theophylline, and flux of indomethacin) compared to membranes with natural CerNS/NdS isomers. Thus, the physiological d-erythro stereochemistry of skin Cer and dihydroCer appears to be essential for their correct barrier function.

Ceramides in the skin barrier

The skin barrier, which is essential for human survival on dry land, is located in the uppermost skin layer, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by multilamellar lipid membranes that prevent excessive water loss from the body and entrance of undesired substances from the environment. To ensure this protective function, the composition and organization of the lipid membranes is highly specialized. The major skin barrier lipids are ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol in an approximately equimolar ratio. With hundreds of molecular species of ceramide, skin barrier lipids are a highly complex mixture that complicate the investigation of its behaviour. In this minireview, the structures of the major skin barrier lipids, formation of the stratum corneum lipid membranes and their molecular organization are described.

Simplified stratum corneum model membranes for studying the effects of permeation enhancers

The activity of transdermal permeation enhancers is usually evaluated in vitro on human or animal skin, but skin samples can be hard to source and highly variable. To provide a more consistent basis for evaluating the activity of permeation enhancers, we prepared relatively simple and inexpensive artificial membranes that imitate the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix. Our membranes were composed of stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and a ceramide (CER) component consisting of N-2-hydroxystearoyl phytosphingosine (CER[AP]) and/or N-stearoyl phytosphingosine (CER[NP]). First, the permeation of theophylline (TH) and indomethacin (IND) through these membranes was compared with their permeation through porcine skin. Because the mixed CER[AP]/[NP] membrane gave the closest results to skin, this membrane was then used to test the effects of two permeation enhancers: N-dodecyl azepan-2-one (Azone) and (S)-N-acetylproline dodecyl ester (L-Pro2). Both enhancers significantly increased the flux of TH and IND through the skin and, even more markedly, through the lipid membrane, L-Pro2 having a stronger effect than Azone. Thus, our simplified model of the SC lipid membrane based on phytosphingosine CERs appears to be suitable for mimicking skin permeation.

Galactosyl Pentadecene Reversibly Enhances Transdermal and Topical Drug Delivery

PURPOSE

To study new skin penetration/permeation enhancers based on amphiphilic galactose derivatives.

METHODS

Two series of alkyl and alkenyl galactosides were synthesized and evaluated for their enhancing effect on transdermal/topical delivery of theophylline (TH), hydrocortisone (HC) and cidofovir (CDV), reversibility of their effects on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin impedance, interaction with the stratum corneum using infrared spectroscopy, and cytotoxicity on keratinocytes and fibroblasts.

RESULTS

Initial evaluation identified 1-(α-D-galactopyranosyl)-(2E)-pentadec-2-ene A15 as a highly potent enhancer - it increased TH and HC flux through human skin 8.5 and 5 times, respectively. Compound A15 increased the epidermal concentration of a potent antiviral CDV 7 times over that reached by control and Span 20 (an established sugar-based enhancer). Infrared spectroscopy of human stratum corneum indicated interaction of A15 with skin barrier lipids but not proteins. These effects of A15 on the skin barrier were reversible (both TEWL and skin impedance returned to baseline values within 24 h after A15 had been removed from skin). In vitro toxicity of A15 on HaCaT keratinocytes and 3T3 fibroblasts was acceptable, with IC₅₀ values over 60 μM.

CONCLUSIONS

Galactosyl pentadecene A15 is a potent enhancer with low toxicity and reversible action.

Phytosphingosine, sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine ceramides in model skin lipid membranes: permeability and biophysics

Ceramides based on phytosphingosine, sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine are essential constituents of the skin lipid barrier that protects the body from excessive water loss. The roles of the individual ceramide subclasses in regulating skin permeability and the reasons for C4-hydroxylation of these sphingolipids are not completely understood. We investigated the chain length-dependent effects of dihydroceramides, sphingosine ceramides (with C4-unsaturation) and phytoceramides (with C4-hydroxyl) on the permeability, lipid organization and thermotropic behavior of model stratum corneum lipid membranes composed of ceramide/lignoceric acid/cholesterol/cholesteryl sulfate. Phytoceramides with very long C24 acyl chains increased the permeability of the model lipid membranes compared to dihydroceramides or sphingosine ceramides with the same chain lengths. Either unsaturation or C4-hydroxylation of dihydroceramides induced chain length-dependent increases in membrane permeability. Infrared spectroscopy showed that C4-hydroxylation of the sphingoid base decreased the relative ratio of orthorhombic chain packing in the membrane and lowered the miscibility of C24 phytoceramide with lignoceric acid. The phase separation in phytoceramide membranes was confirmed by X-ray diffraction. In contrast, phytoceramides formed strong hydrogen bonds and highly thermostable domains. Thus, the large heterogeneity in ceramide structures and in their aggregation mechanisms may confer resistance towards the heterogeneous external stressors that are constantly faced by the skin barrier.

Omega-O-Acylceramides in Skin Lipid Membranes: Effects of Concentration, Sphingoid Base, and Model Complexity on Microstructure and Permeability

Omega-O-acylceramides (acylCer), a subclass of sphingolipids with an ultralong N-acyl chain (from 20 to 38 carbons, most usually 30 and 32 carbons), are crucial components of the skin permeability barrier. AcylCer are involved in the formation of the long periodicity lamellar phase (LPP, 12-13 nm), which is essential for preventing water loss from the body. Lower levels of acylCer and LPP accompany skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, lamellar ichthyosis, and psoriasis. We studied how the concentration and structure of acylCer influence the organization and permeability barrier properties of model lipid membranes. For simple model membranes composed of the sphingosine-containing acylCer (EOS), N-lignoceroyl sphingosine, lignoceric acid, cholesterol (Chol), and cholesteryl sulfate (CholS), the LPP formed at 10% Cer EOS (of the total Cer) and the short periodicity phase disappeared at 30% Cer EOS. Surprisingly, membranes with the LPP had higher permeabilities than the control membrane without acylCer. In the complex models consisting of acylCer (EOS, phytosphingosine EOP, dihydrosphingosine EOdS, or their mixture; at 10% of the total Cer), a six-component Cer mixture, a free fatty acid mixture, cholesterol (Chol), and cholesteryl sulfate (CholS), acylCer decreased the membrane permeability to model permeants (with the strongest effects for acylCer EOP and EOdS) when compared with the permeability of the control membrane without acylCer. However, in the complex model, only a mixture of acylCer EOS, EOdS, and EOP and not the individual acylCer formed both the LPP and orthorhombic chain packing at the 10% level. Thus, the relationships between acylCer, LPP formation, and permeability barrier function are not trivial. Lipid heterogeneity is essential-only the most complex model with nine Cer subclasses mimicked both the organization and permeability of stratum corneum lipid membranes.

A 3D-psoriatic skin model for dermatological testing: The impact of culture conditions

Background

Inadequate representation of the human tissue environment during a preclinical screen can result in inaccurate predictions of compound effects. Consequently, pharmaceutical investigators are searching for preclinical models that closely resemble original tissue for predicting clinical outcomes.

Methods

The current research aims to compare the impact of using serum-free medium instead of complete culture medium during the last step of psoriatic skin substitute reconstruction. Skin substitutes were produced according to the self-assembly approach.

Results

Serum-free conditions have no negative impact on the reconstruction of healthy or psoriatic skin substitutes presented in this study regarding their macroscopic or histological appearances. ATR-FTIR results showed no significant differences in the CH₂ bands between psoriatic substitutes cultured with or without serum, thus suggesting that serum deprivation did not have a negative impact on the lipid organization of their stratum corneum. Serum deprivation could even lead to a better organization of healthy skin substitute lipids. Percutaneous analyses demonstrated that psoriatic substitutes cultured in serum-free conditions showed a higher permeability to hydrocortisone compared to controls, while no significant differences in benzoic acid and caffeine penetration profiles were observed.

Conclusions

Results obtained with this 3D-psoriatic skin substitute demonstrate the potential and versatility of the model. It could offer good prediction of drug related toxicities at preclinical stages performed in order to avoid unexpected and costly findings in the clinic.

General significance

Together, these findings offer a new approach for one of the most important challenges of the 21st century, namely, prediction of drug toxicity.

•

Impact of serum-free conditions during psoriatic skin substitutes reconstruction.

•

Lipids disorganization of healthy and psoriatic skin substitutes.

•

Permeation profiles of healthy skin substitutes.

•

Permeation profiles of psoriatic skin substitutes.

•

Potential and veratility of a 3d-reconstructed model to perform dermatological testing.

Synthesis of 6-hydroxyceramide using ruthenium-catalyzed hydrosilylation–protodesilylation. Unexpected formation of a long periodicity lamellar phase in skin lipid membranes

Synthesis of 6-hydroxysphingosine ceramide and formation of unusual lamellar phase in model membranes of human epidermal barrier.