Phytosphingosine, sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine ceramides in model skin lipid membranes: permeability and biophysics

Mechanisms of the Drug Penetration Enhancer Propylene Glycol Interacting with Skin Lipid Membranes

Very few drugs have the necessary physicochemical properties to cross the skin's main permeability barrier, the stratum corneum (SC), in sufficient amounts. Propylene glycol (PG) is a chemical penetration enhancer that could be included in topical formulations in order to overcome the barrier properties of the skin and facilitate the transport of drugs across it. Experiments have demonstrated that PG increases the mobility and disorder of SC lipids and may extract cholesterol from the SC, but little is known about the molecular mechanisms of drug permeation enhancement by PG. In this work, we have performed molecular dynamics (MD) simulations to investigate the molecular-level effects of PG on the structure and properties of model SC lipid bilayers. The model bilayers were simulated in the presence of PG concentrations over the range of 0-100% w/w PG, using both an all-atom and a united atom force field. PG was found to localize in the hydrophilic headgroup regions at the bilayer interface, to occupy the lipid-water hydrogen-bonding sites, and to slightly increase lipid tail disorder in a concentration-dependent manner. We showed with MD simulation that PG enhances the permeation of small molecules such as water by interacting with the bilayer interface; the results of our study may be used to guide the design of formulations for transdermal drug delivery with enhanced skin permeation, as well as topical formulations and cosmetic products.

Effects of imidazolium ionic liquids on skin barrier lipids - Perspectives for drug delivery

Ionic liquids (ILs) have great potential to facilitate transdermal and topical drug delivery. Here, we investigated the mechanism of action of amphiphilic ILs 1-methyl-3-octylimidazolium bromide (C8MIM) and 3-dodecyl-1-methylimidazolium bromide (C12MIM) in skin barrier lipid models in comparison to their complex effects in human skin. C8MIM incorporated in a skin lipid model was a better permeation enhancer than C12MIM for water and model drugs, theophylline and diclofenac. Solid state 2H NMR and X-ray diffraction indicated that both ILs prefer the cholesterol-rich regions in skin lipids without significantly perturbing their lamellar arrangement and that C8MIM induces the formation of an isotropic lipid phase to a greater extent compared to C12MIM. C12MIM applied topically to the lipid model or human skin as a pretreatment was more potent than C8MIM. When co-applied with the drugs to human skin, aqueous C12MIM was more potent than C8MIM in enhancing theophylline permeation, but neither IL affected (even decreased) diclofenac permeation. Thus, the IL's ability to permeabilize skin lipid barrier is strongly modulated by its ability to reach the site of action and its interactions with drug and solvent. Such an interplay is far from trivial and requires detailed investigation to realize the full potential of ILs.

Lipid Monolayer on Cell Surface Protein Templates Functional Extracellular Lipid Assembly

When the ancestors of men moved from aquatic habitats to the drylands, their evolutionary strategy to restrict water loss is to seal the skin surface with lipids. It is unknown how these rigid ceramide-dominated lipids with densely packed chains squeeze through narrow extracellular spaces and how they assemble into their complex multilamellar architecture. Here it is shown that the human corneocyte lipid envelope, a monolayer of ultralong covalently bound lipids on the cell surface protein, templates the functional barrier assembly by partly fluidizing and rearranging the free extracellular lipids in its vicinity during the sculpting of a functional skin lipid barrier. The lipid envelope also maintains the fluidity of the extracellular lipids during mechanical stress. This local lipid fluidization does not compromise the permeability barrier. The results provide new testable hypotheses about epidermal homeostasis and the pathophysiology underlying diseases with impaired lipid binding to corneocytes, such as congenital ichthyosis. In a broader sense, this lipoprotein-mediated fluidization of rigid (sphingo)lipid patches may also be relevant to lipid rafts and cellular signaling events and inspire new functional materials.

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

The fats of the matter: Lipids in prebiotic chemistry and in origin of life studies

The unique biophysical and biochemical properties of lipids render them crucial in most models of the origin of life (OoL). Many studies have attempted to delineate the prebiotic pathways by which lipids were formed, how micelles and vesicles were generated, and how these micelles and vesicles became selectively permeable towards the chemical precursors required to initiate and support biochemistry and inheritance. Our analysis of a number of such studies highlights the extremely narrow and limited range of conditions by which an experiment is considered to have successfully modeled a role for lipids in an OoL experiment. This is in line with a recent proposal that bias is introduced into OoL studies by the extent and the kind of human intervention. It is self-evident that OoL studies can only be performed by human intervention, and we now discuss the possibility that some assumptions and simplifications inherent in such experimental approaches do not permit determination of mechanistic insight into the roles of lipids in the OoL. With these limitations in mind, we suggest that more nuanced experimental approaches than those currently pursued may be required to elucidate the generation and function of lipids, micelles and vesicles in the OoL.

Innovative insight into the mechanism of enantioselective skin permeation for chiral drugs

OBJECTIVES

A profound comprehension of the molecular mechanisms underpinning the enantioselective transdermal permeation of chiral drugs is critical in the design and assessment of transdermal preparations. The primary objective of this study is to investigate the distinct skin permeation behaviors exhibited by enantiomers of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) and elucidate the intricate molecular mechanism at play.

METHODS

In vitro and in vivo transdermal permeation studies of chiral NSAIDs were performed using transdermal patch and solution system. Chiral interaction between NSAIDs enantiomers and synthesized chiral ceramide present in the skin was characterized to clarify the different transdermal behaviors.

RESULTS

The S-enantiomers of NSAIDs exhibited higher permeability through the skin than R-enantiomer in vitro (1.5-fold) and in vivo (2.0-fold), which was attributed to a stronger interaction between S-enantiomer and ceramide caused by more favorable spatial conformations. S-enantiomer required lower activation energy (24.4 kJ/mol) and Gibbs energy (43.3 kJ/mol), which was favorable in forming the H-bond with ceramide in the skin, resulting in more permeation.

CONCLUSION

This research furnished an innovative comprehension of the molecular underpinnings governing the enantioselective permeation of drug enantiomers through the skin, fostering the minimization of undesired enantiomer ingestion (distomers) and amplifying therapeutic efficiency.

Divergent access to a novel 3,4-diaminophytosphingosine-like ceramide via sequential Overman rearrangement

A straightforward approach to a novel phytosphingosine-like ceramide has been accomplished. The cornerstone features of this divergent synthesis are a cascade Overman rearrangement of tris(imidate) to introduce three desired stereogenic centres via sequential chirality transfer and an effective olefin cross-metathesis to install a long side chain. The final unusual phytoceramides were evaluated for their capacity to inhibit the proliferation of cancer cell lines. The preliminary results revealed that compound 21 exhibits promising anticancer activity against HeLa and HCT-116 cells as well as the excellent selectivity in cytotoxicity (malignant vs non-malignant cell lines).

Comparative analysis of intercellular lipid organization and composition between psoriatic and healthy stratum corneum

The lipid composition and organization of the stratum corneum (SC) in patients with psoriasis and healthy subjects were compared using X-ray diffraction, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), and ultraperformance liquid chromatography, combined with time-of-flight mass spectrometry(UPLC-TOFMS). In healthy SC (HSC), SC lipids formed two lamellar phases (long and short periodicity phases). Hexagonal and orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing were observed in the lateral lipid organization at 30°C via X-ray diffraction. In HSC, the lamellar phases and the hydrocarbon-chain packing organizations changed with elevated temperatures and finally disappeared. In these behaviors, the high-temperature hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing organization, which appeared above the orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing organization, transformed to the liquid phase at about 90°C in HSC and at about 65°C in psoriatic SC (PSC). Therefore, PSC undergoes a structural transformation at a lower temperature than HSC. Disorder of the hydrocarbon-chain packing of SC lipids was also observed in PSC via FT-IR. In UPLC-TOFMS, free fatty acid (FFA) and ceramide (CER) compositions differed between patients with PSC and HSC. Specifically, the levels of ultra-long chain fatty acids containing CER and phytosphingosine-containing CER were decreased, while those of sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine-containing CER and unsaturated FFA were increased in PSC patients. Furthermore, FFA and CER carbon chain lengths decreased in patients with PSC. These results suggest that the alteration of SC lipid composition and the reduction of carbon chain lengths in PSC lowered the structural transformation temperature, thereby reducing barrier function.

Structural diversity of photoswitchable sphingolipids for optodynamic control of lipid microdomains

Sphingolipids are a structurally diverse class of lipids predominantly found in the plasma membrane of eukaryotic cells. These lipids can laterally segregate with other rigid lipids and cholesterol into liquid-ordered domains that act as organizing centers within biomembranes. Owing the vital role of sphingolipids for lipid segregation, controlling their lateral organization is of utmost significance. Hence, we made use of the light-induced trans-cis isomerization of azobenzene-modified acyl chains to develop a set of photoswitchable sphingolipids with different headgroups (hydroxyl, galactosyl, phosphocholine) and backbones (sphingosine, phytosphingosine, tetrahydropyran-blocked sphingosine) that are able to shuttle between liquid-ordered and liquid-disordered regions of model membranes upon irradiation with UV-A (λ = 365 nm) and blue (λ = 470 nm) light, respectively. Using combined high-speed atomic force microscopy, fluorescence microscopy, and force spectroscopy, we investigated how these active sphingolipids laterally remodel supported bilayers upon photoisomerization, notably in terms of domain area changes, height mismatch, line tension, and membrane piercing. Hereby, we show that the sphingosine-based (Azo-β-Gal-Cer, Azo-SM, Azo-Cer) and phytosphingosine-based (Azo-α-Gal-PhCer, Azo-PhCer) photoswitchable lipids promote a reduction in liquid-ordered microdomain area when in the UV-adapted cis-isoform. In contrast, azo-sphingolipids having tetrahydropyran groups that block H-bonding at the sphingosine backbone (lipids named Azo-THP-SM, Azo-THP-Cer) induce an increase in the liquid-ordered domain area when in cis, accompanied by a major rise in height mismatch and line tension. These changes were fully reversible upon blue light-triggered isomerization of the various lipids back to trans, pinpointing the role of interfacial interactions for the formation of stable liquid-ordered domains.

Biomimetic Stratum Corneum Liposome Models: Lamellar Organization and Permeability Studies

The stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin, plays a crucial role as a barrier protecting the underlying cells from external stress. The SC comprises three key components: ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol, along with small fractions of cholesterol sulfate and cholesterol ester. In order to gain a deeper understanding about the interdependence of the two major components, CER and FFA, on the organizational, structural, and functional properties of the SC layer, a library of SC lipid liposome (SCLL) models was developed by mixing CER (phytosphingosine or sphingosine), FFA (oleic acid, palmitic acid, or stearic acid), cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Self-assembly of the SC lipids into lamellar phases was first confirmed by small-angle X-ray scattering. Short periodicity and long periodicity phases were identified for SCLLs containing phytosphingosines and sphingosine CERs, respectively. Furthermore, unsaturation in the CER acyl and FFA chains reduced the lipid conformational ordering and packing density of the liposomal bilayer, which were measured by differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The introduction of unsaturation in the CER and/or FFA chains also impacted the lamellar integrity and permeability. This extensive library of SCLL models exhibiting physiologically relevant lamellar phases with defined structural and functional properties may potentially be used as a model system for screening pharmaceuticals or cosmetic agents.

Menopause induces changes to the stratum corneum ceramide profile, which are prevented by hormone replacement therapy

The menopause can lead to epidermal changes that are alleviated by hormone replacement therapy (HRT). We hypothesise that these changes could relate to altered ceramide production, and that oestrogen may have a role in keratinocyte ceramide metabolism. White Caucasian women were recruited into three groups: pre-menopausal (n = 7), post-menopausal (n = 11) and post-menopausal taking HRT (n = 10). Blood samples were assessed for hormone levels, transepidermal water loss was measured to assess skin barrier function, and stratum corneum lipids were sampled from photoprotected buttock skin. Ceramides and sphingomyelins were analysed by ultraperformance liquid chromatography with electrospray ionisation and tandem mass spectrometry. Post-menopausal stratum corneum contained lower levels of ceramides, with shorter average length; changes that were not evident in the HRT group. Serum oestradiol correlated with ceramide abundance and length. Ceramides had shorter sphingoid bases, indicating altered de novo ceramide biosynthesis. Additionally, post-menopausal women had higher sphingomyelin levels, suggesting a possible effect on the hydrolysis pathway. Treatment of primary human keratinocytes with oestradiol (10 nM) increased production of CER[NS] and CER[NDS] ceramides, confirming an effect of oestrogen on cutaneous ceramide metabolism. Taken together, these data show perturbed stratum corneum lipids post-menopause, and a role for oestrogen in ceramide production.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

The importance of ceramide headgroup for lipid localisation in skin lipid models

The stratum corneum's lipid matrix is a critical for the skin's barrier function and is primarily composed of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The lipids form a long periodicity phase (LPP), a unique trilayer unit cell structure. An enzyme driven pathway is implemented to synthesize these key lipids. If these enzymes are down- or upregulated as in inflammatory diseases, the final lipid composition is affected often altering the barrier function. In this study, we mimicked down regulation of enzymes involved in the synthesis of the sphingosine and CER amide bond. In a LPP lipid model, we substituted CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) with either i) FFA C24 and free sphingosine, to simulate the loss of the CER amide bond, or ii) with FFA C24 and C18 to simulate the loss of the sphingosine headgroup. Our study shows the lipids in the LPP would not phase separate until at least 25% of the CER NS is substituted keeping the lateral packing and conformational ordering unaltered. Neutron diffraction studies showed that free sphingosine chains localized at the outer layers of the unit cell, while the remaining CER NS head group was concentrated in the inner headgroup layers. However, when FFA C18 was inserted, CER NS was dispersed throughout the LPP, resulting in an even distribution between the inner and outer water layers. The presented results highlight the importance of the CER NS headgroup structure and its interaction in combination with the carbon chain invariability for optimal lipid arrangement.

Comparison of the Phytochemical Variation of Non-Volatile Metabolites within Mother Tinctures of Arnica montana Prepared from Fresh and Dried Whole Plant Using UHPLC-HRMS Fingerprinting and Chemometric Analysis

Arnica montana L. has been recognized for centuries as an herbal remedy to treat wounds and promote healing. It also has a long tradition of use in homeopathy. Depending on its medicinal utilization, standardization regulations allow different manufacturing processes, implying different raw materials, such as the whole arnica plant in its fresh or dried state. In this study, an untargeted metabolomics approach with UHPLC-HRMS/MS was used to cross-compare the phytochemical composition of mother tinctures of A. montana that were prepared from either fresh whole plant (fMT) matter or from oven-dried whole plant (dMT) matter. The multivariate data analysis showed significant differences between fMT and dMT. The dereplication of the HRMS and MS/MS spectra of the more discriminant compounds led to annotated quinic acid, dicaffeoyl quinic acids, ethyl caffeate, thymol derivatives and dehydrophytosphingosine, which were increased in fMT, while Amadori rearrangement products (ARP) and methoxyoxaloyl-dicaffeoyl quinic acid esters were enhanced in dMT. Neither sesquiterpene lactones nor flavonoids were affected by the drying process. This is the first time that a sphingosine, ethyl caffeate and ARP are described in A. montana. Moreover, putative new natural products were detected as 10-hydroxy-8,9-epoxy-thymolisobutyrate and an oxidized proline fructose conjugate, for which isolation and full structure elucidation will be necessary to verify this finding.

Cholesterol Sulfate Fluidizes the Sterol Fraction of the Stratum Corneum Lipid Phase and Increases its Permeability

Desulfation of cholesterol sulfate (CholS) to cholesterol (Chol) is an important event in epidermal homeostasis and necessary for stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. The CholS/Chol ratio decreases during SC maturation but remains high in pathological conditions, such as X-linked ichthyosis, characterized by dry and scaly skin. The aim of this study was to characterize the influence of the CholS/Chol molar ratio on the structure, dynamics, and permeability of SC lipid model mixtures. We synthesized deuterated CholS and investigated lipid models with specifically deuterated components using ²H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25°C to 80°C. Although the rigid acyl chains in ceramides and fatty acids remained essentially rigid upon variation of the CholS/Chol ratio, both sterols were increasingly fluidized in lipid models containing higher CholS concentrations. We also show the X-ray repeat distance of the lipid lamellar phase (105 Å) and the orthorhombic chain packing of the ceramide’s acyl chains and long free fatty acids did not change upon the variation of the CholS content. However, the Chol phase separation visible in models with high Chol concentration disappeared at the 50:50 CholS/Chol ratio. This increased fluidity resulted in higher permeabilities to model markers of these SC models. These results reveal that a high CholS/Chol ratio fluidizes the sterol fraction and increases the permeability of the SC lipid phase while maintaining the lamellar lipid arrangement with an asymmetric sterol distribution.

Mammalian Epidermis: A Compendium of Lipid Functionality

Mammalian epidermis is a striking example of the role of lipids in tissue biology. In this stratified epithelium, highly specialized structures are formed that leverage the hydrophobic properties of lipids to form an impermeable barrier and protect the humid internal environment of the body from the dry outside. This is achieved through tightly regulated lipid synthesis that generates the molecular species unique to the tissue. Beyond their fundamental structural role, lipids are involved in the active protection of the body from external insults. Lipid species present on the surface of the body possess antimicrobial activity and directly contribute to shaping the commensal microbiota. Lipids belonging to a variety of classes are also involved in the signaling events that modulate the immune responses to environmental stress as well as differentiation of the epidermal keratinocytes themselves. Recently, high-resolution methods are beginning to provide evidence for the involvement of newly identified specific lipid molecules in the regulation of epidermal homeostasis. In this review we give an overview of the wide range of biological functions of mammalian epidermal lipids.

N-Alkylmorpholines: Potent Dermal and Transdermal Skin Permeation Enhancers

Transdermal drug delivery is an attractive non-invasive method offering numerous advantages over the conventional routes of administration. The main obstacle to drug transport is, however, the powerful skin barrier that needs to be modulated, for example, by transdermal permeation enhancers. Unfortunately, there are still only a few enhancers showing optimum properties including low toxicity and reversibility of enhancing effects. For this reason, we investigated a series of new N-alkylmorpholines with various side chains as potential enhancers in an in vitro permeation study, using three model permeants (theophylline, indomethacin, diclofenac). Moreover, electrical impedance, transepidermal water loss, cellular toxicity and infrared spectroscopy measurements were applied to assess the effect of enhancers on skin integrity, reversibility, toxicity and enhancers' mode of action, respectively. Our results showed a bell-shaped relationship between the enhancing activity and the hydrocarbon chain length of the N-alkylmorpholines, with the most efficient derivatives having 10-14 carbons for both transdermal and dermal delivery. These structures were even more potent than the unsaturated oleyl derivative. The best results were obtained for indomethacin, where particularly the C10-14 derivatives showed significantly stronger effects than the traditional enhancer Azone. Further experiments revealed reversibility in the enhancing effect, acceptable toxicity and a mode of action based predominantly on interactions with stratum corneum lipids.

Effects of (R)- and (S)-α-Hydroxylation of Acyl Chains in Sphingosine, Dihydrosphingosine, and Phytosphingosine Ceramides on Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cers) with α-hydroxylated acyl chains comprise about a third of all extractable skin Cers and are required for permeability barrier homeostasis. We have probed here the effects of Cer hydroxylation on their behavior in lipid models comprising the major SC lipids, Cer/free fatty acids (C ₁₆-C ₂₄)/cholesterol, and a minor component, cholesteryl sulfate. Namely, Cers with (R)-α-hydroxy lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer AS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer AdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer AP) were compared to their unnatural (S)-diastereomers and to Cers with non-hydroxylated lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer NdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer NP). By comparing several biophysical parameters (lamellar organization by X-ray diffraction, chain order, lateral packing, phase transitions, and lipid mixing by infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids) and the permeabilities of these models (water loss and two permeability markers), we conclude that there is no general or common consequence of Cer α-hydroxylation. Instead, we found a rich mix of effects, highly dependent on the sphingoid base chain, configuration at the α-carbon, and permeability marker used. We found that the model membranes with unnatural Cer (S)-AS have fewer orthorhombically packed lipid chains than those based on the (R)-diastereomer. In addition, physiological (R)-configuration decreases the permeability of membranes, with Cer (R)-AdS to theophylline, and increases the lipid chain order in model systems with natural Cer (R)-AP. Thus, each Cer subclass makes a distinct contribution to the structural organization and function of the skin lipid barrier.

The long chain base unsaturation has a stronger impact on 1-deoxy(methyl)-sphingolipids biophysical properties than the structure of its C1 functional group

1-deoxy-sphingolipids, also known as atypical sphingolipids, are directly implicated in the development and progression of hereditary sensory and autonomic neuropathy type 1 and diabetes type 2. The mechanisms underlying their patho-physiological actions are yet to be elucidated. Accumulating evidence suggests that the biological actions of canonical sphingolipids are triggered by changes promoted on membrane organization and biophysical properties. However, little is known regarding the biophysical implications of atypical sphingolipids. In this study, we performed a comprehensive characterization of the effects of the naturally occurring 1-deoxy-dihydroceramide, 1-deoxy-ceramide^Δ14Z and 1-deoxymethyl-ceramide^Δ3E in the properties of a fluid membrane. In addition, to better define which structural features determine sphingolipid ability to form ordered domains, the synthetic 1-O-methyl-ceramide^Δ4E and 1-deoxy-ceramide^Δ4E were also studied. Our results show that natural and synthetic 1-deoxy(methyl)-sphingolipids fail to laterally segregate into ordered domains as efficiently as the canonical C16-ceramide. The impaired ability of atypical sphingolipids to form ordered domains was more dependent on the presence, position, and configuration of the sphingoid base double bond than on the structure of its C1 functional group, due to packing constraints introduced by an unsaturated backbone. Nonetheless, absence of a hydrogen bond donor and acceptor group at the C1 position strongly reduced the capacity of atypical sphingolipids to form gel domains. Altogether, the results showed that 1-deoxy(methyl)-sphingolipids induce unique changes on the biophysical properties of the membranes, suggesting that these alterations might, in part, trigger the patho-biological actions of these lipids.

Exploring polar headgroup interactions between sphingomyelin and ceramide with infrared spectroscopy

Ceramide is a major actor in the sphingolipid signaling pathway elicited by various kinds of cell stress. Under those conditions ceramide (Cer) is produced in the plasma membrane as a product of sphingomyelin (SM) hydrolysis, and this may lead to apoptosis. Thus, SM and Cer coexist in the membrane for some time, and they are known to separate laterally from the (more abundant) glycerolipids, giving rise to highly rigid domains or platforms. The properties of these domains/platforms are rather well understood, but the underlying SM:Cer molecular interactions have not been explored in detail. Infrared (IR) spectroscopy is a powerful analytical technique that provides information on all the chemical groupings in a molecule, and that can be applied to membranes and lipid bilayers in aqueous media. IR spectra can be conveniently retrieved as a function of temperature, thus revealing the thermotropic transitions of SM and its mixtures with Cer. Four regions of the IR spectrum of these sphingolipids have been examined, two of them dominated by the hydrophobic regions in the molecules, namely the C–H stretching vibrations (2800–3000 cm⁻¹), and the CH₂ scissoring vibrations (1455–1485 cm⁻¹), and two others arising from chemical groups at the lipid-water interface, the sphingolipid amide I band (1600–1680 cm⁻¹), and the phosphate vibrations in the 1000–1110 cm⁻¹ region. The latter two regions have been rarely studied in the past. The IR data from the hydrophobic components show a gel (or ripple)-fluid transition of SM at 40 °C, that is shifted up to about 70 °C when Cer is added to the bilayers, in agreement with previous studies using a variety of techniques. IR information concerning the polar parts is more interesting. The amide I (carbonyl) band of pure SM exhibits a maximum at 1638 cm⁻¹ at room temperature, and its position is shifted by about 10 cm⁻¹ in the presence of Cer. Cer causes also a change in the overall band shape, but no signs of band splitting are seen, suggesting that SM and Cer carbonyl groups are interacting tightly, presumably through H-bonds. The 1086 cm⁻¹ band, corresponding to PO₂⁻ vibrations, appears more stable in SM than in DPPC, and it is further stabilized by Cer, again suggesting an important role of H-bonds in the formation of SM:Cer clusters. Thus, SM and Cer can interact through their polar headgroups, in a way that is not accessible to other lipid classes.

Arrangement of Ceramides in the Skin: Sphingosine Chains Localize at a Single Position in Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

Understanding the structure of the stratum corneum (SC) is essential to understand the skin barrier process. The long periodicity phase (LPP) is a unique trilayer lamellar structure located in the SC. Adjustments in the composition of the lipid matrix, as in many skin abnormalities, can have severe effects on the lipid organization and barrier function. Although the location of individual lipid subclasses has been identified, the lipid conformation at these locations remains uncertain. Contrast variation experiments via small-angle neutron diffraction were used to investigate the conformation of ceramide (CER) N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (NS) within both simplistic and porcine mimicking LPP models. To identify the lipid conformation of the twin chain CER NS, the chains were individually deuterated, and their scattering length profiles were calculated to identify their locations in the LPP unit cell. In the repeating trilayer unit of the LPP, the acyl chain of CER NS was located in the central and outer layers, while the sphingosine chain was located exclusively in the middle of the outer layers. Thus, for the CER NS with the acyl chain in the central layer, this demonstrates an extended conformation. Electron density distribution profiles identified that the lipid structure remains consistent regardless of the lipid's lateral packing phase, this may be partially due to the anchoring of the extended CER NS. The presented results provide a more detailed insight on the internal arrangement of the LPP lipids and how they are expected to be arranged in healthy skin.

Canonical and 1-Deoxy(methyl) Sphingoid Bases: Tackling the Effect of the Lipid Structure on Membrane Biophysical Properties

Compared to the canonical sphingoid backbone of sphingolipids (SLs), atypical long-chain bases (LCBs) lack C1-OH (1-deoxy-LCBs) or C1-CH₂OH (1-deoxymethyl-LCBs). In addition, when unsaturated, they present a cis-double bond instead of the canonical  Δ4-5 trans-double bond. These atypical LCBs are directly correlated with the development and progression of hereditary sensory and autonomic neuropathy type 1 and diabetes type II through yet unknown mechanisms. Changes in membrane properties have been linked to the biological actions of SLs. However, little is known about the influence of the LCB structure, particularly 1-deoxy(methyl)-LCB, on lipid-lipid interactions and their effect on membrane properties. To address this question, we used complementary fluorescence-based methodologies to study membrane model systems containing POPC and the different LCBs of interest. Our results show that 1-deoxymethyl-LCBs have the highest ability to reduce the fluidity of the membrane, while the intermolecular interactions of 1-deoxy-LCBs were found to be weaker, leading to the formation of less-ordered domains compared to their canonical counterparts-sphinganine and sphingosine. Furthermore, while the presence of a trans-double bond at the Δ4-5 position of the LCB increased the fluidity of the membrane compared to a saturated LCB, a cis-double bond completely disrupted the ability of the LCB to segregate into ordered domains. In conclusion, even small changes on the structure of the LCB, as seen in 1-deoxy(methyl)-LCBs, strongly affects lipid-lipid interactions and membrane fluidity. These results provide evidence that altered balance between species with different LCBs affect membrane properties and may contribute to the pathobiological role of these lipids.

Behavior of 1-Deoxy-, 3-Deoxy- and N-Methyl-Ceramides in Skin Barrier Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cer) are essential components of the skin permeability barrier. To probe the role of Cer polar head groups involved in the interfacial hydrogen bonding, the N-lignoceroyl sphingosine polar head was modified by removing the hydroxyls in C-1 (1-deoxy-Cer) or C-3 positions (3-deoxy-Cer) and by N-methylation of amide group (N-Me-Cer). Multilamellar skin lipid models were prepared as equimolar mixtures of Cer, lignoceric acid and cholesterol, with 5 wt% cholesteryl sulfate. In the 1-deoxy-Cer-based models, the lipid species were separated into highly ordered domains (as found by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy) resulting in similar water loss but 4–5-fold higher permeability to model substances compared to control with natural Cer. In contrast, 3-deoxy-Cer did not change lipid chain order but promoted the formation of a well-organized structure with a 10.8 nm repeat period. Yet both lipid models comprising deoxy-Cer had similar permeabilities to all markers. N-Methylation of Cer decreased lipid chain order, led to phase separation, and improved cholesterol miscibility in the lipid membranes, resulting in 3-fold increased water loss and 10-fold increased permeability to model compounds compared to control. Thus, the C-1 and C-3 hydroxyls and amide group, which are common to all Cer subclasses, considerably affect lipid miscibility and chain order, formation of periodical nanostructures, and permeability of the skin barrier lipid models.

Molecular mechanism of the skin permeation enhancing effect of ethanol: a molecular dynamics study

Ethanol is widely used in various pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations in order to enhance skin penetration of active ingredients. While it is well known that ethanol partitions into the skin and enhances the permeation of both polar and nonpolar molecules, the exact mechanisms by which it enhances skin permeability are not fully understood. Several mechanisms have been proposed including lipid extraction from the stratum corneum (SC), fluidisation of SC lipid bilayer, alteration of SC protein conformation and enhancement of the drug solubility in the SC lipids. In this study, we performed molecular dynamics (MD) simulations of SC lipid bilayers comprised of an equimolar mixture of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acid in the presence of aqueous mixtures of ethanol. Various unrestrained MD simulations were performed in the presence of aqueous ethanol solution at molar ratios (x) ranging from x = 0 to x = 1. It was found that ethanol enhances bilayer permeability by dual actions (a) extraction of the skin lipids and (b) enhancing the mobility of lipid chains. Ethanol's permeation enhancing effect arises from its superior ability to form hydrogen bonds with headgroup atoms of skin lipids. Further, the free energy of extraction of ceramides (CER) and fatty acids (FFA) from the lipid bilayer was studied using umbrella sampling simulations. The free energy of extraction of CER was found to be much higher compared to FFA for all ethanol concentrations which shows that CER are difficult to extract as compared to FFA. Finally, the permeation of benzoic acid drug molecules through the skin lipid bilayer is shown in presence of ethanol molecules. It was found that ethanol selectively targets the FFA of the skin lipid bilayer and extracts it out of the lipid bilayer within few microseconds. Further, ethanol penetrates inside the lipid layer and creates the channels from which drug molecules can easily cross the lipid layer. Our observations (both in unrestrained and umbrella sampling simulations) are consistent with the experimental findings reported in the literature. The simulation methodology could be used for design and testing of permeation enhancers (acting on skin SC lipid lamella) for topical and transdermal drug delivery applications.

Concentration dependent action of mechanism of ethanol on skin SC lipid barrier.

The role of ceramides in skin homeostasis and inflammatory skin diseases

Ceramides, members of sphingolipid family, are not only the building blocks of epidermal barrier structure, but also bioactive metabolites involved in epidermal self-renewal and immune regulation. Hence, abnormal ceramide expression profile is recognized to defect extracellular lipid organization, disturb epidermal self-renewal, exacerbate skin immune response and actively participate in progression of several inflammatory dermatoses, exemplifying by psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. Here, we discuss recent advances in understanding skin ceramides and their regulatory roles in skin homeostasis and pathogenic roles of altered ceramide metabolism in inflammatory skin diseases. These insights provide new opportunities for therapeutic intervention in inflammatory dermatoses.

Role of Ceramides in Drug Delivery

Ceramides belong to the sphingolipid group of lipids, which serve as both intracellular and intercellular messengers and as regulatory molecules that play essential roles in signal transduction, inflammation, angiogenesis, and metabolic disorders such as diabetes, neurodegenerative diseases, and cancer cell degeneration. Ceramides also play an important structural role in cell membranes by increasing their rigidity, creating micro-domains (rafts and caveolae), and altering membrane permeability; all these events are involved in the cell signaling. Ceramides constitute approximately half of the lipid composition in the human skin contributing to barrier function as well as epidermal signaling as they affect both proliferation and apoptosis of keratinocytes. Incorporation of ceramides in topical preparations as functional lipids appears to alter skin barrier functions. Ceramides also appear to enhance the bioavailability of drugs by acting as lipid delivery systems. They appear to regulate the ocular inflammation signaling, and external ceramides have shown relief in the anterior and posterior eye disorders. Ceramides play a structural role in liposome formulations and enhance the cellular uptake of amphiphilic drugs, such as chemotherapies. This review presents an overview of the various biological functions of ceramides, and their utility in topical, oral, ocular, and chemotherapeutic drug delivery.

The Link between Gaucher Disease and Parkinson's Disease Sheds Light on Old and Novel Disorders of Sphingolipid Metabolism

Sphingolipid metabolism starts with the biosynthesis of ceramide, a bioactive lipid and the backbone for the biosynthesis of complex sphingolipids such as sphingomyelin and glycosphingolipids. These are degraded back to ceramide and then to sphingosine, which enters the ceramide–sphingosine-1-phosphate signaling pathway or is further degraded. Several enzymes with multiple catalytic properties and subcellular localizations are thus involved in such metabolism. Hereditary defects of lysosomal hydrolases have been known for several years to be the cause of lysosomal storage diseases such as gangliosidoses, Gaucher disease, Niemann–Pick disease, Krabbe disease, Fabry disease, and Farber disease. More recently, many other inborn errors of sphingolipid metabolism have been recognized, involving enzymes responsible for the biosynthesis of ceramide, sphingomyelin, and glycosphingolipids. Concurrently, epidemiologic and biochemical evidence has established a link between Gaucher disease and Parkinson’s disease, showing that glucocerebrosidase variants predispose individuals to α-synuclein accumulation and neurodegeneration even in the heterozygous status. This appears to be due not only to lysosomal overload of non-degraded glucosylceramide, but to the derangement of vesicle traffic and autophagy, including mitochondrial autophagy, triggered by both sphingolipid intermediates and misfolded proteins. In this review, old and novel disorders of sphingolipid metabolism, in particular those of ganglioside biosynthesis, are evaluated in light of recent investigations of the link between Gaucher disease and Parkinson’s disease, with the aim of better understanding their pathogenic mechanisms and addressing new potential therapeutic strategies.

Probing the interactions among sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides with non- and alpha-hydroxylated acyl chains in skin lipid model membranes

Ceramides (Cers) are significant constituents of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost skin layer responsible for skin barrier properties. Cers are a heterogeneous group of lipids whose mutual interactions are still unclear. To better understand these interactions, we characterized model membranes containing stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and one or more of the following ceramides: N-stearoyl-sphingosine (CerNS), N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerNP) and N-(2-hydroxy)stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerAP). Small angle X-ray scattering and FTIR spectroscopy were used to study lipid arrangement, phase separation and thermotropic behaviour. In the one-Cer systems, the membranes with CerNP showed strong hydrogen bonding and significant phase separation, even after phase transition, while the systems containing CerAP and CerNS had increased lipid miscibility. The multi-Cer systems exhibited different behaviour. In particular, the membrane containing all three Cers was a highly miscible system with narrow one-step phase transition, which, of all the studied samples, occurred at the lowest temperatures. Our results show that even a small variation in Cer structure results in substantially different phase behaviour, which is further affected by the presence of other Cer subclasses. Interestingly, the phase behaviour of the most complex three-Cer system was simpler than that of the others, highlighting the importance of lipid diversity in real SC.

Human skin equivalents cultured under hypoxia display enhanced epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are three-dimensional cell models mimicking characteristics of native human skin (NHS) in many aspects. However, a limitation of HSEs is the altered in vitro morphogenesis and barrier formation. Differences between in vitro and in vivo skin could have been induced by suboptimal cell culture conditions, of which the level of oxygen in vitro (20%) is much higher than in vivo (0.5-8%). Our aim is to study how external oxygen levels affect epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs. In the present study, fibroblast and keratinocyte monocultures, and HSEs were generated under 20% (normoxia) and 3% (hypoxia) oxygen level. In all cultures under hypoxia, expression of hypoxia-inducible factor target genes was increased. Characterization of HSEs generated under hypoxia using immunohistochemical analyses of morphogenesis biomarkers revealed a reduction in epidermal thickness, reduced proliferation, similar early differentiation, and an attenuated terminal differentiation program compared to normoxia, better mimicking NHS. The stratum corneum ceramide composition was studied with liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. Under hypoxia, HSEs exhibited a ceramide composition that more closely resembles that of NHS. Consequently, the lipid organization was improved. In conclusion, epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs reconstructed under hypoxia better mimics that of NHS.

Structural and barrier properties of the skin ceramide lipid bilayer: a molecular dynamics simulation study

Skin provides excellent protection against the harsh external environment and foreign substances. The lipid matrix of the stratum corneum, which contains various kinds of ceramides, plays a major role in the barrier function of the skin. Here we report a study of the effects of ceramide type on the structural and transport properties of ceramide bilayers using molecular dynamics (MD) simulations. Specifically, the effects of headgroup chemistry (number and positions of hydroxyl groups) and tail structure (unsaturation of the sphingoid moiety) on the structural and transport properties of various ceramide bilayers at 310 K were analyzed. Theoretical results for structural properties such as area per lipid, bilayer thickness, lateral arrangement, order parameter, and hydrogen bonding are reported here and compared with corresponding experimental data. Our study revealed that the presence of a double bond disrupts the bilayer packing, which leads to a low area compressibility modulus, a large area per lipid, and low bilayer thickness. Furthermore, the effect of structural changes on water permeation was studied using steered MD simulations. Water permeation was found to be influenced by headgroup polarity, chain packing, and the ability of the water to hydrogen bond with the ceramides. The molecular-level information obtained from the current study should aid the design of mixed bilayer systems with desired properties and provide the basis for the development of higher order coarse-grained models.

New insight into phase behavior and permeability of skin lipid models based on sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides

The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which consist mainly of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol, is fundamental to the skin barrier function. These lipids assemble into two lamellar phases, known as the long and short periodicity phases (LPP and SPP respectively). The LPP is unique in the SC and is considered important for the skin barrier function. Alterations in CER composition, as well as impaired skin barrier function, are commonly observed in diseased skin, yet the understanding of this relationship remains insufficient. In this study, we have investigated the influence of non-hydroxy and α-hydroxy sphingosine-based CERs and their phytosphingosine counterparts on the permeability and lipid organization of model membranes, which were adjusted in composition to enhance formation of the LPP. The permeability was compared by diffusion studies using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate as a model drug, and the lipid organization was characterized by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. Both the sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based CER models formed the LPP, while the latter exhibited a longer LPP repeat distance. The ethyl-p-aminobenzoate flux across the sphingosine-based CER models was higher when compared to the phytosphingosine counterparts, contrary to the fact that the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based CER model had the lowest chain packing density. The unanticipated low permeability of the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based model is probably associated with a stronger headgroup hydrogen bonding network. Our findings indicate that the increased level of sphingosine-based CERs at the expense of phytosphingosine-based CERs, as observed in the diseased skin, may contribute to the barrier function impairment.

A comparison of the in vitro permeation of niacinamide in mammalian skin and in the Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeation Assay (PAMPA) model

The in vitro skin penetration of pharmaceutical or cosmetic ingredients is usually assessed in human or animal tissue. However, there are ethical and practical difficulties associated with sourcing these materials; variability between donors may also be problematic when interpreting experimental data. Hence, there has been much interest in identifying a robust and high throughput model to study skin permeation that would generate more reproducible results. Here we investigate the permeability of a model active, niacinamide (NIA), in (i) conventional vertical Franz diffusion cells with excised human skin or porcine skin and (ii) a recently developed Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeation Assay (PAMPA) model. Both finite and infinite dose conditions were evaluated in both models using a series of simple NIA solutions and one commercial preparation. The Franz diffusion cell studies were run over 24 h while PAMPA experiments were conducted for 2.5 h. A linear correlation between both models was observed for the cumulative amount of NIA permeated in tested models under finite dose conditions. The corresponding correlation coefficients (r²) were 0.88 for porcine skin and 0.71 for human skin. These results confirm the potential of the PAMPA model as a useful screening tool for topical formulations. Future studies will build on these findings and expand further the range of actives investigated.

Preferential arrangement of lipids in the long-periodicity phase of a stratum corneum matrix model

The lipid matrix of the stratum corneum, the outermost skin layer, consists primarily of ceramides, cholesterol, and FFAs. These lipids form a trilayer long-periodicity phase (LPP) that is unique to this barrier. Knowledge about the LPP is essential in understanding the barrier function. Previous studies of LPP lipid models have identified the position of the major lipid classes and suggested that a large fraction of FFAs and the ceramide acyl chain are present in the central region. However, the precise arrangement, such as lipid subclass mixing (isolated or mixed) and ceramide conformation (extended or hairpin), remains unknown. Here, we deuterated FFAs and the ceramide acyl chain to study CD₂ and CH₂ interactions with Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. The ceramide and FFAs of various chain lengths were not in separate domains but had mixed together. The larger number of CD₂-CD₂ lipid chain interactions in the LPP than in a symmetrical bilayer structure implied that the ceramide had primarily adopted an extended conformation. Shorter FFAs were present in the central region of the LPP. This model explores the biophysical properties of the stratum corneum's LPP to improve the understanding of the barrier function of this layer.

Probing the role of ceramide hydroxylation in skin barrier lipid models by 2H solid-state NMR spectroscopy and X-ray powder diffraction

In this work, we studied model stratum corneum lipid mixtures composed of the hydroxylated skin ceramides N-lignoceroyl 6-hydroxysphingosine (Cer[NH]) and α-hydroxylignoceroyl phytosphingosine (Cer[AP]). Two model skin lipid mixtures of the composition Cer[NH] or Cer[AP], N-lignoceroyl sphingosine (Cer[NS]), lignoceric acid (C24:0) and cholesterol in a 0.5:0.5:1:1 molar ratio were compared. Model membranes were investigated by differential scanning calorimetry and ²H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25 °C to 80 °C. Each component of the model mixture was specifically deuterated for selective detection by ²H NMR. Thus, the exact phase composition of the mixture at varying temperatures could be quantified. Moreover, using X-ray powder diffraction we investigated the lamellar phase formation. From the solid-state NMR and DSC studies, we found that both hydroxylated Cer[NH] and Cer[AP] exhibit a similar phase behavior. At physiological skin temperature of 32 °C, the lipids form a crystalline (orthorhombic) phase. With increasing temperature, most of the lipids become fluid and form a liquid-crystalline phase, which converts to the isotropic phase at higher temperatures (65-80 °C). Interestingly, lignoceric acid in the Cer[NH]-containing mixture has a tendency to form two types of fluid phases at 65 °C. This tendency was also observed in Cer[AP]-containing membranes at 80 °C. While Cer[AP]-containing lipid models formed a short periodicity phase featuring a repeat spacing of d = 5.4 nm, in the Cer[NH]-based model skin lipid membranes, the formation of unusual long periodicity phase with a repeat spacing of d = 10.7 nm was observed.

Effects of Ceramide and Dihydroceramide Stereochemistry at C-3 on the Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Membranes

Ceramides (Cer) are key components of the skin permeability barrier. Sphingosine-based CerNS and dihydrosphingosine-based CerNdS (dihydroCer) have two chiral centers; however, the importance of the correct stereochemistry in the skin barrier Cer is unknown. We investigated the role of the configuration at C-3 of CerNS and CerNdS in the organization and permeability of model skin lipid membranes. Unnatural l-threo-CerNS and l-threo-CerNdS with 24-C acyl chains were synthesized and, along with their natural d-erythro-isomers, incorporated into membranes composed of major stratum corneum lipids (Cer, free fatty acids, cholesterol, and cholesteryl sulfate). The membrane microstructure was investigated by X-ray powder diffraction and infrared spectroscopy, including deuterated free fatty acids. Inversion of the C-3 configuration in CerNS and CerNdS increased phase transition temperatures, had no significant effects on lamellar phases, but also decreased the proportion of orthorhombic packing and decreased lipid mixing in the model membranes. These changes in membrane organization resulted in membrane permeabilities that ranged from unchanged to 5-fold higher (depending on the permeability markers, namely, water loss, electrical impedance, flux of theophylline, and flux of indomethacin) compared to membranes with natural CerNS/NdS isomers. Thus, the physiological d-erythro stereochemistry of skin Cer and dihydroCer appears to be essential for their correct barrier function.

Simplified stratum corneum model membranes for studying the effects of permeation enhancers

The activity of transdermal permeation enhancers is usually evaluated in vitro on human or animal skin, but skin samples can be hard to source and highly variable. To provide a more consistent basis for evaluating the activity of permeation enhancers, we prepared relatively simple and inexpensive artificial membranes that imitate the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix. Our membranes were composed of stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and a ceramide (CER) component consisting of N-2-hydroxystearoyl phytosphingosine (CER[AP]) and/or N-stearoyl phytosphingosine (CER[NP]). First, the permeation of theophylline (TH) and indomethacin (IND) through these membranes was compared with their permeation through porcine skin. Because the mixed CER[AP]/[NP] membrane gave the closest results to skin, this membrane was then used to test the effects of two permeation enhancers: N-dodecyl azepan-2-one (Azone) and (S)-N-acetylproline dodecyl ester (L-Pro2). Both enhancers significantly increased the flux of TH and IND through the skin and, even more markedly, through the lipid membrane, L-Pro2 having a stronger effect than Azone. Thus, our simplified model of the SC lipid membrane based on phytosphingosine CERs appears to be suitable for mimicking skin permeation.

Artificial Lipid Membranes: Past, Present, and Future

The multifaceted role of biological membranes prompted early the development of artificial lipid-based models with a primary view of reconstituting the natural functions in vitro so as to study and exploit chemoreception for sensor engineering. Over the years, a fair amount of knowledge on the artificial lipid membranes, as both, suspended or supported lipid films and liposomes, has been disseminated and has helped to diversify and expand initial scopes. Artificial lipid membranes can be constructed by several methods, stabilized by various means, functionalized in a variety of ways, experimented upon intensively, and broadly utilized in sensor development, drug testing, drug discovery or as molecular tools and research probes for elucidating the mechanics and the mechanisms of biological membranes. This paper reviews the state-of-the-art, discusses the diversity of applications, and presents future perspectives. The newly-introduced field of artificial cells further broadens the applicability of artificial membranes in studying the evolution of life.

Permeability Barrier and Microstructure of Skin Lipid Membrane Models of Impaired Glucosylceramide Processing

Ceramide (Cer) release from glucosylceramides (GlcCer) is critical for the formation of the skin permeability barrier. Changes in β-glucocerebrosidase (GlcCer'ase) activity lead to diminished Cer, GlcCer accumulation and structural defects in SC lipid lamellae; however, the molecular basis for this impairment is not clear. We investigated impaired GlcCer-to-Cer processing in human Cer membranes to determine the physicochemical properties responsible for the barrier defects. Minor impairment (5-25%) of the Cer generation from GlcCer decreased the permeability of the model membrane to four markers and altered the membrane microstructure (studied by X-ray powder diffraction and infrared spectroscopy), in agreement with the effects of topical GlcCer in human skin. At these concentrations, the accumulation of GlcCer was a stronger contributor to this disturbance than the lack of human Cer. However, replacement of 50-100% human Cer by GlcCer led to the formation of a new lamellar phase and the maintenance of a rather good barrier to the four studied permeability markers. These findings suggest that the major cause of the impaired water permeability barrier in complete GlcCer'ase deficiency is not the accumulation of free GlcCer but other factors, possibly the retention of GlcCer bound in the corneocyte lipid envelope.

Effects of 6-Hydroxyceramides on the Thermotropic Phase Behavior and Permeability of Model Skin Lipid Membranes

Ceramides (Cer) based on 6-hydroxysphingosine are important components of the human skin barrier, the stratum corneum. Although diminished concentrations of 6-hydroxyCer have been detected in skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, our knowledge on these unusual sphingolipids, which have only been found in the skin, is limited. In this work, we investigate the biophysical behavior of N-lignoceroyl-6-hydroxysphingosine (Cer NH) in multilamellar lipid membranes composed of Cer/free fatty acids (FFAs) (C16-C24)/cholesterol/cholesteryl sulfate. To probe the Cer structure-activity relationships, we compared Cer NH membranes with membranes containing Cer with sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine, and phytosphingosine (Cer NP), all with the same acyl chain length (C24). Compared with Cer NS, 6-hydroxylation of Cer not only increased membrane water loss and permeability in a lipophilic model compound but also dramatically increased the membrane opposition to electrical current, which is proportional to the flux of ions. Infrared spectroscopy revealed that Cer hydroxylation (in either Cer NH or Cer NP) increased the main transition temperature of the membrane but prevented good Cer mixing with FFAs. X-ray powder diffraction showed not only lamellar phases with shorter periodicity upon Cer hydroxylation but also the formation of an unusually long periodicity phase (d = 10.6 nm) in Cer NH-containing membranes. Thus, 6-hydroxyCer behaves differently from sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based Cer. In particular, the ability to form a long-periodicity lamellar phase and highly limited permeability to ions indicate the manner in which 6-hydroxylated Cer contribute to the skin barrier function.