Prosopis juliflora as a new cosmetic ingredient: Development and clinical evaluation of a bioactive moisturizing and anti-aging innovative solid core

Enhanced skin benefits of EGCG loaded in nonapeptide-1-conjugated mesoporous silica nanoparticles to reverse skin photoaging

Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), a catechin present in green tea, has been studied extensively for its potential as a cosmetic ingredient due to its various biological properties. However, the low stability and bioavailability of EGCG have hindered its effective utilization in cosmetic applications. This study, to improve the stability and bioavailability of EGCG for reversing skin photo-aging, nonapeptide-1-conjugated mesoporous silica nanoparticles (EGCG@NP-MSN) were fabricated to load EGCG. MSNs can regulate the EGCG release and provide ultraviolet light (UV) protection to possess excellent photostability. Nonapeptide-1 exhibits melanin transfer interference properties and reduces the melanin content in treated skin areas. In vitro and in vivo results confirmed that the EGCG-loaded MSNs retained antioxidant properties, effectively scavenged the melanin and significantly reduced the deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) damage in skin cells exposed to UV irradiation. The melanin inhibition rate is 5.22 times and the tyrosinase inhibition rate is 1.57 times that of free EGCG. The utilization of this innovative platform offers the potential for enhanced stability, controlled release, and targeted action of EGCG, thereby providing significant advantages for skin application.This delivery system combines the advantages of antioxidant, anti-aging, and anti-UV radiation properties, paving the way for the cosmetics development with improved efficacy and better performance in promoting skin health and appearance.

Evaluation of the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of Prosopis juliflora fruit extract as a novel multifunctional bioactive ingredient and its potential applicability in pro-ageing and skin colour harmonization cosmetic products

OBJECTIVE

Prosopis juliflora, commonly known as algaroba or mesquite, was introduced and has since proliferated throughout the semi-arid region of the Caatinga biome. Various studies have documented its properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antitumor activities, attributed to the presence of diverse secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins, and flavonoids. The objective of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of P. juliflora fruit extract as a multifunctional active ingredient, and to develop cosmetic formulations containing this vegetal extract for potential applications in skincare products targeting pro-ageing and skin colour homogenization properties.

METHODS

The extraction process followed established protocols. Chemical characterization of the extract involved quantification of total flavonoids and phenolic compounds, along with Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis. In vitro antioxidant activity was assessed using different methods. Antityrosinase activity was determined by employing enzymatic assays. Cosmetic formulations containing Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Distilled Water, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Lecithin, Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7, and 3.0% of the investigated plant extract were subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests.

RESULTS

The extract demonstrated a concentration of total flavonoids (1.71 ± 0.26 μg EQ/mg) and exhibited concentrations of phenolic compounds at 0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g. Metabolites such as flavonoids and saponins were annotated, as well as some of their respective glycosidic derivatives. The extract showed antioxidant potential and the ability to inhibit the oxidation cascade in both the initiation and propagation phases. Moreover, the extract exhibited noteworthy inhibition of antityrosinase activity, presenting 62.48 ± 2.09 at a concentration of 30.00 mg/mL. The formulations were stable in accelerated stability tests over a 60-day period.

CONCLUSION

This research not only demonstrates scientifically by demonstrating the potential of a plant from the Caatinga biome with antioxidant and antityrosinase properties in the development of cosmetic products aimed at pro-ageing effects and skin colour harmonization, but also adds value to the P. juliflora production chain. This valorization encompasses various aspects which include environmental, social, and biodiversity responsibilities.

Advances in Plant Polysaccharides as Antiaging Agents: Effects and Signaling Mechanisms

Aging refers to the gradual physiological changes that occur in an organism after reaching adulthood, resulting in senescence and a decline in biological functions, ultimately leading to death. Epidemiological evidence shows that aging is a driving factor in the developing of various diseases, including cardiovascular diseases, neurodegenerative diseases, immune system disorders, cancer, and chronic low-grade inflammation. Natural plant polysaccharides have emerged as crucial food components in delaying the aging process. Therefore, it is essential to continuously investigate plant polysaccharides as potential sources of new pharmaceuticals for aging. Modern pharmacological research indicates that plant polysaccharides can exert antiaging effects by scavenging free radicals, increasing telomerase activity, regulating apoptosis, enhancing immunity, inhibiting glycosylation, improving mitochondrial dysfunction regulating gene expression, activating autophagy, and modulating gut microbiota. Moreover, the antiaging activity of plant polysaccharides is mediated by one or more signaling pathways, including IIS, mTOR, Nrf2, NF-κB, Sirtuin, p53, MAPK, and UPR signaling pathways. This review summarizes the antiaging properties of plant polysaccharides and signaling pathways participating in the polysaccharide-regulating aging process. Finally, we discuss the structure-activity relationships of antiaging polysaccharides.

Skincare application of medicinal plant polysaccharides - A review

Polysaccharides are macromolecules with important inherent properties and potential biotechnological applications. These complex carbohydrates exist throughout nature, especially in plants, from which they can be obtained with high yields. Different extraction and purification methods may affect the structure of polysaccharides and, due to the close relationship between structure and function, modify their biological activities. One of the possible applications of these polysaccharides is acting on the skin, which is the largest organ in the human body and can be aged by intrinsic and extrinsic processes. Skincare has been gaining worldwide attention not only to prevent diseases but also to promote rejuvenation in aesthetic treatments. In this review, we discussed the polysaccharides obtained from plants and their innovative potential for skin applications, for example as wound-healing, antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, antitumoral, and anti-aging compounds.

Safety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties: In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies.

METHODS

The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use.

RESULTS

The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported.

CONCLUSIONS

All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.

Applications of asymmetrical flow field-flow fractionation for separation and characterization of polysaccharides: A review

Polysaccharides are the most abundant natural biopolymers on the earth and are widely used in food, medicine, materials, cosmetics, and other fields. The physicochemical properties of polysaccharides such as particle size and molecular weight often affect their practical applications. In recent years, asymmetrical flow field-flow fractionation (AF4) has been widely used in the separation and characterization of polysaccharides because it has no stationary phases or packing materials, which reduces the risk of shear degradation of polysaccharides. In this review, the principle of AF4 was introduced briefly. The operation conditions of AF4 for the analysis of polysaccharides were discussed. The applications of AF4 for the separation and characterization of polysaccharides from different sources (plants, animals, and microorganisms) over the last decade were critically reviewed.