Applications of mass spectrometry in cosmetic analysis: An overview

Recent progress in the extraction of terpenoids from essential oils and separation of the enantiomers by GC-MS

Terpenoids possess significant physiological activities and are rich in essential oils. Some terpenoids have chiral centers and could form enantiomers with distinct physiological activities. Therefore, the extraction and separation of terpenoids enantiomers are very important and have attracted extensive attention in recent years. Meanwhile, the specific distribution and enantiomer excess results (the excess of one enantiomer over the other in a mixture of enantiomers) could be used as quality markers for illegitimate adulteration, origin identification, and exploring component variations and functional interrelations across different plant tissues. In this study, an overview of the progress in the extraction of terpenoids from essential oils and the separation of their enantiomers over the past two decades has been made. Extraction methods were retrieved by the resultant network visualization findings. The results showed that the predominant methods are hydrodistillation, solvent-free microwave extraction, headspace solid-phase microextraction and supercritical fluid extraction methods. GC-MS combined with chiral chromatography columns is commonly used for the separation of enantiomers, while 2D GC is found to have stronger resolution ability. Finally, some prospects for future research directions in the extraction and separation identification of essential oils are proposed.

Decoding Cosmetic Complexities: A Comprehensive Guide to Matrix Composition and Pretreatment Technology

Despite advancements in analytical technologies, the complex nature of cosmetic matrices, coupled with the presence of diverse and trace unauthorized additives, hinders the application of these technologies in cosmetics analysis. This not only impedes effective regulation of cosmetics but also leads to the continual infiltration of illegal products into the market, posing serious health risks to consumers. The establishment of cosmetic regulations is often based on extensive scientific experiments, resulting in a certain degree of latency. Therefore, timely advancement in laboratory research is crucial to ensure the timely update and adaptability of regulations. A comprehensive understanding of the composition of cosmetic matrices and their pretreatment technologies is vital for enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of cosmetic detection. Drawing upon the China National Medical Products Administration's 2021 Cosmetic Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue, we streamline the wide array of cosmetics into four principal categories based on the following compositions: emulsified, liquid, powdered, and wax-based cosmetics. In this review, the characteristics, compositional elements, and physicochemical properties inherent to each category, as well as an extensive overview of the evolution of pretreatment methods for different categories, will be explored. Our objective is to provide a clear and comprehensive guide, equipping researchers with profound insights into the core compositions and pretreatment methods of cosmetics, which will in turn advance cosmetic analysis and improve detection and regulatory approaches in the industry.