Sunscreen allergy and its investigation

Anthraquinones from Rhamnus alaternus L.: A Phytocosmetic Ingredient with Photoprotective and Antimelanogenesis Properties

The purpose of the present work was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant activity and an anti-melanogenic effect, containing an anthraquinone-enriched extract of Rhamnus alaternus (A.E.). Our findings demonstrated that A.E. decreased the levels of reactive oxygen species, DNA damage, and malondialdehyde induced by UVA in human keratinocytes and melanocytes. Furthermore, the calculated SPF value in vitro of the cream containing A.E. was 14.26±0.152. Later, it was shown that A.E. extract had an inhibitory effect on the amount of melanin. This extract could also reduce B16F10 intracellular tyrosinase activity. Besides, docking studies were carried out to provide a logical justification for the anti-tyrosinase potential. The findings showed that, A.E. may provide protection against UVA-induced oxidative stress and could be thought of as a viable treatment for hyperpigmentation disorders.

7-Hydroxy-2-octenoic acid-ethyl ester mixture as an UV protectant secondary metabolite of an endolichenic fungus isolated from Menegazzia terebrata

Enodolichenic fungi (ELF) are considered a promising bio-resource since they produce a variety of novel secondary metabolites with bioactivities. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sunlight containing UVA and UVB can cause acute and chronic skin diseases, and the demand for UV protectants in sunscreens has been increasing. Such situations evoke the strong interest of researchers in seeking effective UV protectants from natural products. In this study, we obtained partially purified 7-hydroxy-2-octenoic acid-ethyl ester (7E) from the secondary metabolites of ELF000548, which has UVA absorption activity. The antioxidant properties were performed by in vitro tests. The superoxide anion scavenging activity and inhibition of linoleic acid peroxidation of the 7E mixture were higher than ascorbic acid (ASA) and butyl hydroxyl anisole (BHA). Furthermore, the compound recovered the damage caused by UVB irradiation and inhibited melanin synthesis. Additionally, the 7E mixture exhibited no cytotoxicity toward the mouse melanoma cell lines, B16F1 and B16F10, except for the normal cell line, HaCaT. In general, these results are the first report about bioactivities of 7E, and those demonstrated that this compound might be a UV protectant to go further study.

A Review of Moisturizers; History, Preparation, Characterization and Applications

Moisturizers are one of the most widely used preparations in cosmetics and have been extensively used to soften the skin for consumers. Moisturizers work effectively in combating dry skin which may cause pain, tightness, itch, stinging, and/or tingling. The aim of this review is to evaluate published studies on the history, ingredients, preparation processes, characteristics, uses, and applications of moisturizers. Moisturizers bridge the gap between medicine and consumer goods by being used to make the skin more beautiful and healthy. In the future, in moisturizer therapy, the capacity to adapt specific agents to specific dermatological demands will be crucial. Cosmetically, moisturizers make the skin smooth by the mechanism of increasing the water content in the stratum corneum, hence exerting its most vital action, which is moisturizing action and maintaining a normal skin pH.

Analysis of factors influencing skin reactions to sunscreens, skin whitening products, and deodorants: Results from a large-scale patch test dataset in China

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic products are widely used in daily life and can cause skin reactions. However, to date, few studies have investigated the prevalence and associated factors of skin reactions to different types of cosmetic products using patch test results.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the frequency and associated factors of skin reactions to sunscreens, skin whitening products, and deodorants using patch test results in China.

METHODS

This cross-sectional analysis used data collected during 2004-2017 at the Shanghai Skin Disease Hospital, China. Skin reactions were measured using patch tests following internationally standardized protocols.

RESULTS

In total, 151 280 patch tests comprising 16 477 cosmetic products conducted in 4029 healthy volunteers were analyzed. The frequencies of skin reactions to different cosmetic products were 1.07%, 1.28%, and 4.41% for sunscreens, skin whitening products, and deodorants, respectively. With increasing age, a higher frequency of reactions to sunscreens in women (p < 0.001) and a lower frequency of reactions to skin whitening products in men (p < 0.05) were observed. In addition, men were more likely to develop skin reactions to deodorants compared to women (p < 0.05). Skin reactions were more frequent in winter (p < 0.05), which was true for different types of cosmetic products.

CONCLUSIONS

The frequency of patch testing for different cosmetic products was 1.07-4.41%. The effects of age, sex, and season vary among the different types of cosmetic products. We hope that these findings can offer guidance for a healthy skincare concept.

Photoprotection and Photostability of a New Lignin-Gelatin-Baccharis antioquensis-Based Hybrid Biomaterial

The aim of this study was to develop a new hybrid biomaterial that could photo-stabilize and improve the photoprotective capacity of a Baccharis antioquensis extract. Different combinations of lignin/gelatin/natural extract were applied to prepare hybrid biomaterial nanoparticles (NPs), which were then incorporated into an emulsion. The in vitro photoprotection and photostability were evaluated. The methanolic extract showed high phenolic content (646.4 ± 9.5 mg GAE/g dry extract) and a DPPH radical assay revealed that the antiradical capacity of the extract (0.13 to 0.05 g extract/mmol DPPH) was even better than that of BHT. The particle size of the hybrid biomaterial ranged from 100 to 255 nm; a polydispersity index (PdI) between 0.416 and 0.788 is suitable for topical use in dermocosmetic products. The loading capacity of the extract ranged from 27.0 to 44.5%, and the nanoparticles (NPs) showed electrostatic stability in accordance with the zeta potential value. We found that the formulation based on lignin: extract (1:1 ratio) and gelatin: lignin: extract (0.5:0.5:1 ratio) demonstrated photoprotection qualities with a sun protection factor (SPF) ranging from 9.4 to 22.6. In addition, all the hybrid NP-formulations were time-stable with %SPFeff and %UVAPFeff greater than 80% after exposure to 2 h of radiation. These results suggest that the hybrid biopolymer-natural extract improved the photoprotection and photostability properties, as well as the antiradical capacity, of the B. antioquensis extract, and may be useful for trapping high polyphenol content from natural extracts, with potential application in cosmeceutical formulations.

Ultraviolet filter, fragrance and preservative allergens in New Zealand sunscreens

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

Allergic contact dermatitis, photoallergic contact dermatitis and irritant reactions to sunscreens are common reasons for dermatology consultation. Patch testing for contact allergy relies on up-to-date knowledge of allergen exposures. The aim of this study was to investigate contact allergens and photoallergens in sunscreens commercially sold on the shelves of supermarkets and pharmacies in New Zealand.

METHODS

A comprehensive market data review of suppliers' websites was performed from March to August 2019 to obtain a list of the commonly sold sunscreens in our region. Ingredients were collated and analysed according to International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) names. Ultraviolet (UV) filters, preservatives and fragrances were included for analysis. Place of sale and cost of sunscreens were also recorded.

RESULTS

Ninety-five sunscreens were analysed: 36% sold in supermarkets, 43% in pharmacies and the remainder available in both. The most frequent UV filters were butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (contained in 70% of products) followed by octocrylene (63%) and homosalate (50%). The common photoallergen benzophenone 3 was found in 19% of products. Phenoxyethanol was the most common preservative (68%) followed by disodium EDTA (30%) and propylparaben (26%). Two sunscreens contained methylisothiazolinone. Sixty-one per cent contained at least one fragrance, the most frequent being limonene (17%) and linalool (13%). There was an average of 1.1 New Zealand baseline series allergens per product (range 0 to 6, standard deviation 1.27).

CONCLUSION

Common allergens including those with high sensitising potential were frequently found in New Zealand sunscreen. Knowledge of ingredients used by manufacturers is useful in dermatological assessment of skin contact reactions.

Effects of substituent position on aminobenzoate relaxation pathways in solution

The negative effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human skin have led to the widespread use of sunscreens, i.e. skincare products containing UV filters to absorb, reflect or otherwise block UVR. The mechanisms by which UV filters dissipate energy following photoexcitation, i.e. their photodynamics, can crucially determine a molecule's performance as a sunscreen UV filter. In this work, we evaluate the effects of substituent position on the in-solution relaxation pathways of two derivates of methyl anthranilate (an ortho compound that is a precursor to the UV filter meradimate), meta- and para-methyl anthranilate, m-MA and p-MA, respectively. The photodynamics of m-MA were found to be sensitive to solvent polarity: its emission spectra show larger Stokes shifts with increasing polarity, and both the fluorescence quantum yield and lifetimes for m-MA increase in polar solvents. While the Stokes shifts for p-MA are much milder and more independent of solvent environment than those of m-MA, we find its fluorescence quantum yields to be sensitive not only to solvent polarity but to the hydrogen bonding character of the solvent. In both cases (m- and p-MA) we have found common computational methods to be insufficient to appropriately model the observed spectroscopic data, likely due to an inability to account for explicit solvent interactions, a known challenge in computational chemistry. Therefore, apart from providing insight into the photodynamics of anthranilate derivatives, the work presented here also provides a case study that may be of use to theoretical chemists looking to improve and develop explicit solvent computational methods.

Insights and controversies on sunscreen safety

Although sunlight provides several benefits, ultraviolet (UV) radiation plays an important role in the development of various skin damages such as erythema, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Despite cells having endogenous defense systems, damaged DNA may not be efficiently repaired at chronic exposure. In this sense, it is necessary to use artificial defense strategies such as sunscreen formulations. UV filters should scatter, reflect, or absorb solar UV radiation in order to prevent direct or indirect DNA lesions. However, the safety of UV filters is a matter of concern due to several controversies reported in literature, such as endocrine alterations, allergies, increased oxidative stress, phototoxic events, among others. Despite these controversies, the way in which sunscreens are tested is essential to ensure safety. Sunscreen regulation includes mandatory test for phototoxicity, but photogenotoxicity testing is not recommended as a part of the standard photosafety testing program. Although available photobiological tests are still the first approach to assess photosafety, they are limited. Some existing tests do not always provide reliable results, mainly due to limitations regarding the nature of the assessed phototoxic effect, cell UV sensitivity, and the irradiation protocols. These aspects bring queries regarding the safety of sunscreen wide use and suggest the demand for the development of robust and efficient in vitro screening tests to overcome the existing limitations. In this way, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has stood out as a promising model to fill the gaps in photobiology and to complete the mandatory tests enabling a more extensive and robust photosafety assessment.

Photopatch Testing Among Members of the American Contact Dermatitis Society

BACKGROUND

Photopatch testing is an important diagnostic tool in evaluating patients with suspected photoallergic contact dermatitis. Although protocols for photopatch testing have been described, there are no consensus recommendations by the American Contact Dermatitis Society (ACDS).

OBJECTIVES

The aims of this study were to examine the common practices of photopatch testing among ACDS members and to review and compare commonly used photoallergen series.

METHODS

We conducted a questionnaire-based survey among ACDS members via e-mail to inquire about their photopatch test methods. We compared the results with the European consensus methodology and reviewed photoallergen series reported by the respondents.

RESULTS

Of the 791 members contacted, 112 members (14%) responded to the survey. Among these, 50 respondents (45%) perform photopatch testing, approximately half of whom (48%) determine minimal erythema dose before the test using UVA with or without UVB irradiation. Respondents use a total of 13 photoallergen series, alone or in any combination, as well as customized series.

CONCLUSIONS

These results have potential to aid clinicians in identifying photoallergen series best suited for their patients and suggest a need for consensus recommendations by the ACDS.

Evaluation of In Vitro Solar Protection Factor (SPF), Antioxidant Activity, and Cell Viability of Mixed Vegetable Extracts from Dirmophandra mollis Benth, Ginkgo biloba L., Ruta graveolens L., and Vitis vinífera L

The aim of this study was to validate a HPLC method for the assay of flavonoids in extracts obtained from natural sources, i.e., from Dirmophandra mollis Benth, Ginkgo biloba L., Ruta graveolens L., and Vitis vinífera L. The potential sun protecting effect, antioxidant activity, and cell viability of the extracts were also determined. Individual extracts (obtained from each individual species) and a mixed extract (containing the four extracts) were analyzed by the validated HPLC method for the identification of flavonoids and quantification of rutin and quercetin. An in vitro cell viability study was carried out using the neutral red method. The in vitro sun protection factor was determined by spectral transmittance and in vitro antioxidant efficacy was evaluated against DPPH, ABTS, and AAPH radicals. The HPLC method used for the identification and quantification of flavonoids in extracts exhibited linearity, precision, accuracy, and robustness. Detection and quantification limits were, respectively, 2.881 ± 0.9 μg·mL^-1 and 0.864 ± 0.9 μg·mL^-1 for quercetin, and 30.09 ± 1 μg·mL^-1 and 9.027 ± 1.1 μg·mL^-1 for rutin. All extracts did not affect cell viability at the evaluated concentration range and exhibited a sun protection effect and antioxidant activity. Among the evaluated extracts, Ginkgo biloba L. and the mixed extract depicted the most expressive antioxidant activity. The mixed extract exhibited sunscreen protection against ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) and a critical wavelength of 372.7 ± 0.1. Our results translate the enhanced flavonoids' composition of the mixed extract, which may be a potential alternative over sunscreens and antioxidants in pharmaceutic/cosmetic formulations.

Flavonoid-Enriched Plant-Extract-Loaded Emulsion: A Novel Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Formulation with Antioxidant Properties

The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid-enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5 °C), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 ± 0.39 μg/mL and 30.39 ± 0.39 μg/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo-plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 ± 1.92 μg/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 ± 8.70 μg/mL). The developed flavonoid-enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non-irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application.

Effect of Divalent Metals on the UV-Shielding Properties of MII/MgAl Layered Double Hydroxides

Both the particle size and compositions have a strong influence on the UV-shielding performance of layered double hydroxides (LDHs), and they will interact with each other. To investigate the effects of divalent metal ions on the UV-shielding properties of layered double hydroxides (LDHs), M^II/MgAl-CO₃ LDHs (M = Mg, Co, Ni, Cu, or Zn) with the same primary and secondary particle size have been prepared and their UV-shielding performance have been studied in this work. The UV-vis spectra show that the ZnMgAl-LDHs exhibit the highest absorbance under the ultraviolet B and ultraviolet A rays among these LDH samples, but in the ultraviolet C region, the CuMgAl-LDHs show the highest absorbance and this result is in good accordance with the UV-shielding performance, which was examined by protecting the photocatalytic degradation of rhodamine B aqueous solution. Moreover, under UV rays, PP/ZnMgAl-LDH films show excellent resistance to UV aging, which can be attributed to the strong inhibition of ZnMgAl-LDHs during the production of free radicals in polypropene, as has been confirmed by electron spin resonance results.

Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti-ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin-conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.

A Bioscreening Technique for Ultraviolet Irradiation Protective Natural Substances

Ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) causes genotoxic and aging effects on skin, and sunscreens are used to alleviate the damage. However, sunscreens contain synthetic shielding agents that can cause harmful effects in the environment. Nature-derived substances may have potential as replacement materials for the harmful sunscreen chemicals. However, screening of a broad range of samples is tedious, and often requires a separate genotoxicity assessment. We describe a simple microplate technique for the screening of UV protective substances using a recombinant Escherichia coli biosensor. Both absorbance-based and bioactivity-based shields can be detected with simultaneous information about the sample genotoxicity. With this technique, a controversial sunscreen compound, oxybenzone offers physical or absorbance-based shield but appears genotoxic at higher concentrations (3.3 mg/mL). We also demonstrate that pine needle extract (Pi_Ne ) shields the biosensor from UV-R in a dose-dependent manner without showing genotoxicity. The physical shield of 5 mg/mL Pi_Ne was similar to that of one of the most common UV-shielding compound TiO₂ concentration 0.80 mg/mL. The bioactivity-based shield of Pi_Ne also reaches the extent of the physical shield with the highest concentration (3.3 mg/mL). We conclude that our technique is suitable in detecting the UV-shielding potential of natural substances, and gives simultaneous information on genotoxicity.

Stereoselective metabolism of the UV-filter 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate and its metabolites in rabbits in vivo and vitro

.The stereoselective metabolism of the enantiomers of the UV-filter 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate (EDP) and its two major metabolites were studied in rabbits in vivo and in vitro. Cytotoxicity of EDP and its two metabolites was also investigated in hepatocytes.

A Multifunctional and Possible Skin UV Protectant, (3R)-5-Hydroxymellein, Produced by an Endolichenic Fungus Isolated from Parmotrema austrosinense

Lichens are considered a great bio-resource because they produce large numbers of secondary metabolites with many biological activities; however, they have not been cultivated under artificial conditions to date. As a result, lichen substances from natural sources are limited and have not been widely utilized in commercial applications. Accordingly, interest in lichen-associated fungi, especially endogenic fungi, has increased. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sunlight is harmful to human health, resulting in demand for effective UV filtering agents for use in sunscreen. In this study, we purified (3R)-5-hydroxymellein, which has UVA absorption activity, from the secondary metabolites of an endolichenic fungus (ELF000039). The antioxidant properties were then assessed by in vitro tests. The antioxidant activity of (3R)-5-hydroxymellein was high when compared to the recognized antioxidants ascorbic acid (ASA) and butyl hydroxyl anisole (BHA). Moreover, the compound exhibited no cytotoxicity toward mouse melanoma cell lines, B16F1 and B16F10, or the normal cell line, HaCaT. Furthermore, (3R)-5-hydroxymellein recovered the damage caused by UVB irradiation and inhibited melanin synthesis. Taken together, these results suggest that (3R)-5-hydroxymellein could have an interesting and vital profile to go further development as a multifunctional skin UV protectant.

Photophysics of sunscreen molecules in the gas phase: a stepwise approach towards understanding and developing next-generation sunscreens

The relationship between exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and skin cancer urges the need for extra photoprotection, which is presently provided by widespread commercially available sunscreen lotions. Apart from having a large absorption cross section in the UVA and UVB regions of the electromagnetic spectrum, the chemical absorbers in these photoprotective products should also be able to dissipate the excess energy in a safe way, i.e. without releasing photoproducts or inducing any further, harmful, photochemistry. While sunscreens are tested for both their photoprotective capability and dermatological compatibility, phenomena occurring at the molecular level upon absorption of UV radiation are largely overlooked. To date, there is only a limited amount of information regarding the photochemistry and photophysics of these sunscreen molecules. However, a thorough understanding of the intrinsic mechanisms by which popular sunscreen molecular constituents dissipate excess energy has the potential to aid in the design of more efficient, safer sunscreens. In this review, we explore the potential of using gas-phase frequency- and time-resolved spectroscopies in an effort to better understand the photoinduced excited-state dynamics, or photodynamics, of sunscreen molecules. Complementary computational studies are also briefly discussed. Finally, the future outlook of expanding these gas-phase studies into the solution phase is considered.

Synthesis and photocatalytic activity of TiO2 nanowires in the degradation of p-aminobenzoic acid: A comparative study with a commercial catalyst

The photocatalytic degradation of p-aminobenzoic acid was studied using TiO2 nanowires as the catalyst synthesized through a hydrothermal procedure. The as-synthesized TiO2 nanowires were fully characterized by SEM, TEM, XRD and Raman with a very high surface area of 512 m(2) g(-1). The photocatalytic degradation of p-aminobenzoic acid was carried out under 180 min of constant radiation and the results were compared with P25 as commercial catalyst. Optimal experimental conditions were determined for TiO2 nanowires with a catalyst dosage of 1.0 g L(-1) under acidic conditions with a 20 μM p-aminobenzoic acid solution obtaining 95% of degradation. Under similar experimental conditions comparative studies were performed obtaining 98% of degradation when P25 is employed. In both systems, a pseudo first order reaction was found to provide the best correlations, with constant rates of 2.0 × 10(-2) min(-1) and 2.4 × 10(-2) min(-1) for TiO2 nanowires and P25, respectively.

In vitro photoprotection and antioxidant capacity of Sphagnum meridense extracts, a novel source of natural sunscreen from the mountains of Colombia

Excessive ultraviolet radiation can cause skin cancer and related health problems in humans. Traditionally, organic and inorganic sunscreens have been used to minimize these effects. Besides, some phenolic compounds present in plants play an important role as photoprotectors. Sphagnum meridense (L), found in Colombia, is continuously exposed to sunlight on high mountain ecosystems. In this work, we evaluated the potential of S. meridense extracts to be applied as UVA-UVB filter in cosmetic formulations and its antioxidant capacity. The mixture acetone-37% hydrochloric acid (1%, v/v) showed the best polyphenol content and UVA-UVB absorption coefficient. These extracts also exhibited promissory UVAPF values, UVA/UVB ratio, critical wavelength (λc) and antioxidant capacity in vitro, comparable to that of conventional sunscreens.

Sun lotion chemicals as endocrine disruptors

Ultraviolet solar radiation is a well-known environmental health risk factor and the use of sun lotions is encouraged to achieve protection mainly from skin cancer. Sun lotions are cosmetic commercial products that combine active and inactive ingredients and many of these are associated with health problems, including allergic reactions and endocrine disorders. This review focuses on their ability to cause endocrine and reproductive impairments, with emphasis laid on the active ingredients (common and less common UV filters). In vitro and in vivo studies have demonstrated their ability to show oestrogenic/anti-oestrogenic and androgenic/anti-androgenic activity. Many ingredients affect the oestrous cycle, spermatogenesis, sexual behaviour, fertility and other reproductive parameters in experimental animals. Their presence in aquatic environments may reveal a new emerging environmental hazard.

Influence of vegetable oil on the synthesis of bioactive nanocarriers with broad spectrum photoprotection

Due to their unique features, most nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) in association with vegetable oils that exhibit UV filtering properties and bioactivity could be used in many cosmetic formulations. Therefore, in this work, a new application of pomegranate seed oil (PSO) in the cosmetic sector was developed, based on the synthesis of bioactive lipid nanocarriers loaded with various UV filters by the hot high pressure homogenization technique. To get broad spectrum photoprotection, different UVA and UVB filters have been used (Avobenzone — AVO, Octocrylen-OCT, Bemotrizinol — BEMT). The influence of the solid lipids combined with PSO on the particle size, physical stability and entrapment efficiency was investigated using 8 nanocarrier systems. An improved physical stability and an appropriate size were obtained for NLCs prepared with Emulgade, carnauba wax and PSO (e.g. −30.9÷-36.9 mV and 160÷185 nm). NLCs showed an entrapment efficiency above 90% and assured slow release rates of UV filters, especially for BEMT (5%). The developed nanocarriers have been formulated into safe and effective sunscreens containing low amounts of synthetic UV filters coupled with a high percent of natural ingredients. The highest SPF of 34.3 was obtained for a cream comprising of 11% PSO and 3.7% BEMT

Analysis of the Prevalence of Allergic Contact Dermatitis to Sunscreen: A Cohort Study

Background:

As the use of sunscreens becomes more prevalent, reports of adverse effects to sunscreens have increased.

Objective:

To analyze a patch test database for the prevalence of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) to sunscreen.

Methods:

The database was searched for positive patch test reactions to benzophenone-3. Charts were also reviewed for those who were further tested to the sunscreen series.

Results:

Twenty-three of the 1,527 patients seen were tested to the sunscreen series. Of these, only 4 patients had a positive reaction to a sunscreen chemical or to the product they were using. In addition, 8 of the 1,527 patients who had no specific history of sunscreen allergy reacted to benzophenone-3.

Conclusion:

ACD to sunscreen was found to be very uncommon (0.8%). Other final diagnoses included ACD to excipients such as fragrances or preservatives and suspected photosensitive disorders.