Wine expertise: perceptual learning in the chemical senses

Demystifying wine expertise through the lens of imagination: Descriptions and imagery vividness across sensory modalities

For most untrained novices, talking about wine or imagining the smells and flavours of wine is difficult. Wine experts, on the other hand, have been found to have better imagery for wine, and are also more proficient in describing wine. Some scholars have suggested that imagery and language are based on similar underlying processes, but no conclusive evidence has been found regarding mental imagery and language production. In this study, we examined the relationship between imagery and language use in both novices and experts. In an online experiment, wine experts and novices were asked to imagine the colour, smell, taste and mouthfeel of wines in different situations, and were asked to rate the vividness of the imagined experience as well as describe it with words. The results show that experts differ from novices on a number of linguistic measures when describing wine, including the number of words used, the type of words used, the concreteness of those words, and the adjective to noun ratio. Similarly, imagery for wine was more vivid in wine experts compared to novices in the modalities of smell, taste, and mouthfeel, in alignment with previous work. Surprisingly, we found that no single linguistic variable significantly predicted the reported vividness of wine imagery, neither in experts nor in novices. However, the linguistic model predicted imagery vividness better using data from experts compared to novices. Taken together, these findings underscore that imagery and language are different facets of wine cognition.

Can metaphors help us better remember wines? The effect of wine evaluation style on short-term recognition of red wines

People are generally poor at remembering complex food stimuli, such as wine. While writing a description has been shown to improve memory performance, talking about wine is generally a difficult task for novices. However, giving novices a framework in which to evaluate the wine may help with the memory process. Using a short-term recognition task, this experiment compared different forms of wine evaluation on the to-be-remembered wine sample, using either 1) a classic smell and taste evaluation, 2) a multisensory metaphor selection task with visual, auditory, and tactile metaphors, or 3) a control condition with no writing. Results from 153 participants revealed that recognition performance between the three groups was not significantly different. Secondary analysis revealed that recognition accuracy was correlated with wine liking for the control group, suggesting that in the absence of explicitly evaluating the wine, participants relied on wine liking as a cue for memory. Implications for theory development and applications in wine education are discussed.

Sniffing out meaning: Chemosensory and semantic neural network changes in sommeliers

Wine tasting is a very complex process that integrates a combination of sensation, language, and memory. Taste and smell provide perceptual information that, together with the semantic narrative that converts flavor into words, seem to be processed differently between sommeliers and naïve wine consumers. We investigate whether sommeliers' wine experience shapes only chemosensory processing, as has been previously demonstrated, or if it also modulates the way in which the taste and olfactory circuits interact with the semantic network. Combining diffusion-weighted images and fMRI (activation and connectivity) we investigated whether brain response to tasting wine differs between sommeliers and nonexperts (1) in the sensory neural circuits representing flavor and/or (2) in the neural circuits for language and memory. We demonstrate that training in wine tasting shapes the microstructure of the left and right superior longitudinal fasciculus. Using mediation analysis, we showed that the experience modulates the relationship between fractional anisotropy and behavior: the higher the fractional anisotropy the higher the capacity to recognize wine complexity. In addition, we found functional differences between sommeliers and naïve consumers affecting the flavor sensory circuit, but also regions involved in semantic operations. The former reflects a capacity for differential sensory processing, while the latter reflects sommeliers' ability to attend to relevant sensory inputs and translate them into complex verbal descriptions. The enhanced synchronization between these apparently independent circuits suggests that sommeliers integrated these descriptions with previous semantic knowledge to optimize their capacity to distinguish between subtle differences in the qualitative character of the wine.

Fine wine recognition and appreciation: It is time to change the paradigm of wine tasting

Wine quality maybe understood under two perspectives: (a) commercial quality, intended to satisfy overall consumers, and (b) fine wine quality, aimed at achieving a product with aesthetic value. The current food sensory techniques (e.g. Descriptive Analysis) have been successfully applied to develop wines accepted worldwide and characterized by pleasant sweetish flavours and smooth mouthfeel. On the contrary, these techniques are not suited to characterize fine wines given their dependence on sensory properties with aesthetic value. The conventional tasting approaches follow the sequence of vision, smell (orthonasal), taste and mouthfeel, ending by an overall evaluation. The sensory descriptors tend to be analytic (e.g. different aromas and tastes) or synthetic (e.g. body, structure) and the quality judgement is left for the final step. Some synthetic attributes may have an aesthetic significance (e.g. complexity, harmony, depth) and are more valued when the analytic or synthetic descriptors are highly praised (e.g. oakiness, silkiness, body, minerality). Consequently, these highly praised attributes are regarded as surrogates of fine wine quality. However, commercial wines are frequently judged of higher quality than fine wines irrespective of the taster expertise. We argue that the conventional sensory analysis sequence makes the overall evaluation secondary in relation to the previous analytical steps blurring the assessment of wine's aesthetic properties. Probably due to top-down processing, the initial evaluation of colour or flavours governs the final overall quality evaluation that may be inconsistently rated. Then, to promote the recognition of fine wines, tasting should begin by first acknowledging the aesthetic properties and only proceed to the analytical steps if necessary. A tasting method is proposed to consumer educational programs where emotional responses are used to explain the differences between commercial and fine wine styles. Furthermore, cultural aspects should be included to appreciate the wholeness of wine. Hopefully, this holistic perspective would turn wine appreciation more approachable and facilitate the recognition of fine wines among consumers, increasing their appreciation and enjoyment.

Let's talk about faces: Identifying faces from verbal descriptions

Face descriptions inform real-world identification decisions, for example when eyewitnesses describe criminal perpetrators. However, it is unclear how effective face descriptions are for identification. Here, we examined the accuracy of face identification from verbal descriptions, and how individual differences in face perception relate to producing and using descriptions for identification. In Study 1, participants completed a face communication task in pairs. Each participant saw a single face, and via verbal communication only, the pair decided if they were viewing the same person or different people. Dyads achieved 72% accuracy, compared to 81% when participants completed the task individually by matching face pairs side-by-side. Performance on the face communication and perceptual matching tasks were uncorrelated, perhaps due to low measurement reliability of the face communication task. In subsequent studies, we examined the abilities of face 'describers' (Study 2) and 'identifiers' separately (Study 3). We found that 'super-recognizers' - people with extremely high perceptual face identification abilities - outperformed controls in both studies. Overall, these results show that people can successfully describe faces for identification. Preliminary evidence suggests that this ability - and the ability use facial descriptions for identification - has some association with perceptual face identification skill.

Digitalization of multisensory collective activity: The case of virtual wine tasting

Wine tasting is a multisensory collective activity because it involves other senses in addition to sight and hearing. The importance of these multiple senses for wine tasting makes it more challenging to digitalize than other collective activities. We conducted an ethnography and used a semiotic analysis to explore the strategies to digitalize wine tasting sessions. In so doing, we examined how small artisanal winemakers and wine merchants in Austria, Germany, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, and Switzerland moved their wine tasting sessions online to compensate for their lost key revenue streams during the global Covid-19 crisis. Based on our analysis, we present a typology of virtual wine tasting and illustrate how the approach to digitalize wine tasting evolved from a reactive approach to a more proactive one. We also identify strategies to digitalize wine tasting and characterize its social space. We discuss some avenues to regard virtual wine tasting as something more than just a digital representation of in-person wine tasting session by highlighting the mediating role of an information system. Finally, we propose some implications for digitalizing other multisensory collective activities.

Hanseniaspora vineae and the Concept of Friendly Yeasts to Increase Autochthonous Wine Flavor Diversity

In this perspective, we will explain the concept of “friendly” yeasts for developing wine starters that do not suppress desirable native microbial flora at the initial steps of fermentation, as what usually happens with Saccharomyces strains. Some non-Saccharomyces strains might allow the development of yeast consortia with the native terroir microflora of grapes and its region. The positive contribution of non-Saccharomyces yeasts was underestimated for decades. Avoiding them as spoilage strains and off-flavor producers was the main objective in winemaking. It is understandable, as in our experience after more than 30 years of wine yeast selection, it was shown that no more than 10% of the isolated native strains were positive contributors of superior flavors. Some species that systematically gave desirable flavors during these screening processes were Hanseniaspora vineae and Metschnikowia fructicola. In contrast to the latter, H. vineae is an active fermentative species, and this fact helped to build an improved juice ecosystem, avoiding contaminations of aerobic bacteria and yeasts. Furthermore, this species has a complementary secondary metabolism with S. cerevisiae, increasing flavor complexity with benzenoid and phenylpropanoid synthetic pathways practically inexistent in conventional yeast starters. How does H. vineae share the fermentation niche with other yeast strains? It might be due to the friendly conditions it creates, such as ideal low temperatures and low nitrogen demand during fermentation, reduced synthesis of medium-chain fatty acids, and a rich acetylation capacity of aromatic higher alcohols, well-known inhibitors of many yeasts. We will discuss here how inoculation of H. vineae strains can give the winemaker an opportunity to develop ideal conditions for flavor expression of the microbial terroir without the risk of undesirable strains that can result from spontaneous yeast fermentations.

Data on the sensory evaluation of the dry red and white wines quality obtained by traditional technologies from European and hybrid grape varieties in the Krasnodar Territory, Russia

The analysis of data on the sensory evaluation of the quality of wines obtained using traditional technologies in the Krasnodar Territory, Russia, was carried out using the statistical ranking criteria - the Spearman and Kendall correlation coefficients, as well as the positional analysis - Cronbach's alpha. Data on the sensory evaluation of 60 samples of natural dry red and white wines are presented, among which 20 are white wines, 40 are red wines produced in 2010-2015. Eleven specialists aged between 32 and 66 years (the average age was 50 years; 4 females and 7 males) participated in the sensory evaluation procedure. All participants are considered experts in the field of wine, work in the wine industry and have professional experience in the field of sensory analysis. The results of the consistency study of expert evaluations, the reliability of the general score scale, as well as the analysis of the loyalty of experts in the wine quality assessment are presented in the article. The reliability of the proposed loyalty scale is shown, i.e., the scale of the sum of scores given by each expert in the evaluation of the quality of wines. The database on the sensory evaluation of the quality of wines, obtained for all wine samples using positional analysis, makes it possible to assess the contribution of each of the 60 wine samples to their ranking by mean scores. The data may be of interest to scientists and oenologists for the wine quality assessment.

Study of consistency of expert evaluations of wine sensory characteristics by positional analysis

Individual characteristics inherent in the expert, as well as their physical and psycho-emotional state subject to the influence of random, uncontrollable factors, contribute to subjectivity in the sensory evaluation of wines. With great variability of opinions, the final results of sensory evaluation may become doubtful. The presence of a random component in the sensory evaluation justifies the use of statistical methods for analyzing the consistency of expert evaluations. Along with Spearman's correlation coefficients and Kendall matching, Cronbach alpha criterion was used to assess the consistency of expert opinions. The advantages of positional analysis have been discussed – Cronbach's alpha criterion is calculated not by the rank of expert points, but by the initial point scale considering its variability; it allows to evaluate the contribution of each expert to the consistency of expert evaluations, as well as the reliability of the total scale of points set for each wine sample. Based on the data analysis from sensory evaluation of the quality of dry red and white wines of Russian production, the results of the consistency study of expert evaluations as well as the reliability of the total score scale have been presented. What is more, analysis of the “loyalty” of experts in evaluating the quality of wines has been performed.

Categorizing Smells: A Localist Approach

Humans are poorer at identifying smells and communicating about them, compared to other sensory domains. They also cannot easily organize odor sensations in a general conceptual space, where geometric distance could represent how similar or different all odors are. These two generalities are more or less accepted by psychologists, and they are often seen as connected: If there is no conceptual space for odors, then olfactory identification should indeed be poor. We propose here an important revision to this conclusion: We believe that the claim that there is no odor space is true only if by odor space, one means a conceptual space representing all possible odor sensations, in the paradigmatic sense used for instance for color. However, in a less paradigmatic sense, local conceptual spaces representing a given subset of odors do exist. Thus the absence of a global odor space does not warrant the conclusion that there is no olfactory conceptual map at all. Here we show how a localist account provides a new interpretation of experts and cross-cultural categorization studies: Rather than being exceptions to the poor olfactory identification and communication usually seen elsewhere, experts and cross-cultural categorization are here taken to corroborate the existence of local conceptual spaces.

Wine psychology: basic & applied

Basic cognitive research can help to explain our response to wine, and the myriad factors that affect it. Wine is a complex, culture-laden, multisensory stimulus, and our perception/experience of its properties is influenced by everything from the packaging in which it is presented through the glassware in which it is served and evaluated. A growing body of experiential wine research now demonstrates that a number of contextual factors, including everything from the colour of the ambient lighting through to background music can exert a profound, and in some cases predictable, influence over the tasting experience. Sonic seasoning - that is, the matching of music or soundscapes with specific wines in order to accentuate or draw attention to certain qualities/attributes in the wine, such as sweetness, length, or body, also represents a rapidly growing area of empirical study. While such multisensory, experiential wine research undoubtedly has a number of practical applications, it also provides insights concerning multisensory perception that are relevant to basic scientists. Furthermore, the findings of the wine research are also often relevant to those marketers interested in understanding how the consumers' perception of any other food or beverage product can potentially be modified.

Expertise Shapes Multimodal Imagery for Wine

Although taste and smell seem hard to imagine, some people nevertheless report vivid imagery in these sensory modalities. We investigate whether experts are better able to imagine smells and tastes because they have learned the ability, or whether they are better imaginers in the first place, and so become experts. To test this, we first compared a group of wine experts to yoked novices using a battery of questionnaires. We show for the first time that experts report greater vividness of wine imagery, with no difference in vividness across sensory modalities. In contrast, novices had more vivid color imagery than taste or odor imagery for wines. Experts and novices did not differ on other vividness of imagery measures, suggesting a domain-specific effect of expertise. Critically, in a second study, we followed a group of students commencing a wine course and a group of matched control participants. Students and controls did not differ before the course, but after the wine course students reported more vivid wine imagery. We provide evidence that expertise improves imagery, exemplifying the extent of plasticity of cognition underlying the chemical senses.