Topical Products for the Aging Face

Combined multilevel anti-aging strategies and practical applications of dermocosmetics in aesthetic procedures

Management of the signs of facial aging and other cosmetic skin problems have greatly evolved in the past years. People are also seeking to improve their well-being and global skin appearance, and when they consider using cosmetic procedures, they expect natural and long-lasting aesthetic results. Combined dermocosmetic approaches that address the signs of facial aging at all levels are increasingly being used by dermatologists to meet patient expectations while ensuring their safety. Minimally invasive and reversible procedures that can be performed in only one session are popular approaches for skin restructuring and volumizing as they are flexible, rapid and less burdensome for patients. These interventions can achieve even better outcomes when they are combined with cosmeceuticals as pre- or post-procedural adjuvants to prepare the skin, accelerate recovery and sustain results. The use of topical dermocosmetics is also recommended as part of the daily skin care routine to improve skin quality and help maintain skin barrier function. This review thus outlines the most commonly used combined multilevel anti-aging strategies, which start by addressing the deepest skin layers and then the more superficial signs of skin aging. Examples of multi-active cosmeceuticals and skin delivery enhancing systems are also presented, together with examples of the use of dermocosmetics as supportive care for aesthetic procedures, to provide insights into current applications of dermocosmetic products.

A review of the efficacy of popular eye cream ingredients

Background

Due to the periorbital region's high susceptibility to damage from external factors, along with its tendency to demonstrate early signs of aging, periorbital skin is a common target for antiaging therapy.

Objective

This review aims to evaluate the efficacy of active ingredients commonly found in eye creams, particularly focusing on their impact on periorbital skin concerns.

Methods

A comprehensive review of the literature on active ingredients in eye creams, including retinoids, vitamins C and E, peptides, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, caffeine, and niacinamide, was conducted. Clinical studies assessing the efficacy of these ingredients in addressing periorbital concerns were examined.

Results

Studies demonstrate the potential of these ingredients to improve various aspects of periorbital skin, including hydration, elasticity, collagen synthesis, and reduction of inflammatory mediators. Ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, and caffeine show promise in addressing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, while peptides and hyaluronic acid aid in collagen production and hydration. Niacinamide and ceramides offer benefits in reducing wrinkles and enhancing the skin barrier function.

Limitations

The lack of clinical trials specifically targeting eye cream formulations and periorbital skin is a notable limitation. Furthermore, the variability in study designs, sample sizes, and concentrations of active ingredients across studies complicates direct comparisons.

Conclusion

The reviewed studies highlight the potential of active ingredients in eye creams to address various periorbital concerns. Further research, particularly large-scale clinical trials focusing on eye cream formulations and their efficacy on periorbital skin, is warranted to establish their significance and comparability with other dermatologic products.

Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.

Collagen Hydrolysate Prepared from Chicken By-Product as a Functional Polymer in Cosmetic Formulation

Chicken stomachs can be processed into collagen hydrolysate usable in cosmetic products. The aim of the study was to verify the effects of a carbopol gel formulation enriched with 1.0% (w/w) chicken hydrolysate on the properties of the skin in the periorbital area after regular application twice a day for eight weeks in volunteers ageed 50 ± 9 years. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity and skin relief were evaluated. Overall, skin hydration increased by 11.82% and 9.45%, TEWL decreased by 25.70% and 17.80% (always reported for the right and left area). Generally, there was an increase in skin elasticity, a decrease in skin roughness, as the resonance times decreased by 85%. The average reduction of wrinkles was 35.40% on the right and 41.20% on the left. For all results, it can be seen that the longer the cosmetic gel formulation is applied, the better the results. Due to the positive effect on the quality and functionality of the skin, it is possible to apply the cosmetic gel formulation in the periorbital area. The advantage of the product with chicken collagen hydrolysate is also the biocompatibility with the skin and the biodegradability of the formulation.

Global Gene Expression of Cultured Human Dermal Fibroblasts: Focus on Cell Cycle and Proliferation Status in Improving the Condition of Face Skin

Chronological skin ageing is an inevitable physiological process that results in thin and sagging skin, fine wrinkles, and gradual dermal atrophy. The main therapeutic approaches to soft tissue augmentation involve using dermal fillers, where natural fillers, such as autologous fibroblasts, are involved in generating dermal matrix proteins. The aim of this study was to determine the global transcriptome profile of three passages of dermal autologous fibroblasts from a male volunteer, focusing on the processes of the cell cycle and cell proliferation status to estimate the optimal passage of the tested cells with respect to their reimplantation. We performed K-means clustering and validation of the expression of the selected mRNA by qRT-PCR. Ten genes were selected (ANLN, BUB1, CDC20, CCNA2, DLGAP5, MKI67, PLK1, PRC1, SPAG5, and TPX2) from the top five processes annotated to cluster 5. Detailed microarray analysis of the fibroblast genes indicated that the cell population of the third passage exhibited the highest number of upregulated genes involved in the cell cycle and cell proliferation. In all cases, the results of qRT-PCR confirmed the differences in expression of the selected mRNAs between fibroblasts from the primary culture (C0) and from the first (C1), second (C2), and third (C3) cell passage. Our results thus suggest that these cells might be useful for increasing fibroblast numbers after reimplantation into a recipient's skin, and the method used in this study seems to be an excellent tool for autologous transplantation allowing the rejuvenation of aging skin.

Enhanced Cellular Uptake and Sustained Transdermal Delivery of Collagen for Skin Regeneration

The present study reports a method for transporting high molecular weight collagen for skin regeneration. An independent engineered enzymatic vehicle that has the ability for efficient transdermal delivery of regenerative biomaterial was developed for tissue regeneration. Collagen has been well recognized as a skin regeneration molecule due to its interaction with the extracellular matrix to stimulate skin cell growth, proliferation, and differentiation. However, the transdermal delivery of collagen poses a significant challenge due to its high molecular weight as well as a lack of efficient approaches. Here, to improve the transdermal delivery efficiency, α-1,4-glycosidic hydrolase was engineered with genetically encoded 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine, which enhanced its biological activity as revealed by microscale thermophoresis. The remodeled catalytic pocket resulted in enhanced substrate binding activity of the enzyme with a predominant glycosaminoglycan (chondroitin sulfate) present in the extracellular matrix of the skin. The engineered enzyme rapidly opened up the skin extracellular matrix fiber (15 min) to ferry collagen across the wall, without disturbing the cellular bundle architecture. Confocal microscopy indicated that macromolecules had diffused three times deeper into the engineered enzyme-treated skin than the native enzyme-treated skin. Gene expression, histopathology, and hematology analysis also supported the penetration of macromolecules. Cytotoxicity (mammalian cell culture) and in vivo (Caenorhabditis elegans and Rattus noryegicus) studies revealed that the congener enzyme could potentially be used as a penetration enhancer, which is of paramount importance for the multimillion cosmetic industries. Hence, it offers promise as a pharmaceutical enzyme for transdermal delivery bioenhancement and dermatological applications.

Safety and efficacy of a novel three-step anti-acne regimen formulated specifically for women

Background

Due to ambient environmental- and lifestyle-associated stressors, the prevalence of acne in adult women has been increasing. Classical anti-acne treatments using benzoyl peroxide technology are associated with dehydration of the skin, which may accelerate aging and further reduce treatment compliance. The addition of bio-functional actives intended to replenish hydration and improve barrier function may hasten the onset of anti-acne benefits while restoring a healthy appearance and counteracting skin aging effects.

Objective

The objective of this study was to test the safety and efficacy of a new three-step topical anti-acne regimen designed specifically to improve the overall condition and appearance of the skin in women with acne.

Methods

Safety and efficacy were tested in an 8-week study of women ages 22 to 44 years with mild to moderate acne. Skin endpoints were monitored at baseline and weeks 1, 4, and 8 by clinical grading, measurement of sebum secretion using a sebumeter, standardized pictures, and self-validation questionnaires.

Results

A total of 31 women completed the study. Acne severity and lesion counts, including comedones and papules, improved gradually starting from week 1 and continued to improve throughout the study period, reaching statistical and clinical relevance at weeks 4 and 8. Moreover, significant improvements in skin roughness, radiance, overall healthy appearance, and oiliness (further confirmed with decreased sebum production) were observed. Compared with baseline responses, participants reported noticeable improvements in acne lesions and overall healthier-looking skin. Participants also noticed overall younger-looking skin at the end of the study period.

Conclusion

This three-step regimen provided efficacious anti-acne benefits to the skin that were also gentle, safe, and well tolerated.

The Impact of Herbal Products in the Prevention, Regeneration and Delay of Skin Aging

Skin aging is a complex process induced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors and causes alterations to the structural and functional aspects of the skin. Skin aging affects patients physically and physiologically. Understanding the process of skin aging can provide new knowledge on how to attenuate or reduce skin disorder symptoms. Herbs have been used for ages to prevent and treat skin aging, yet there are growing interests by researchers in this field globally. Various strategies have been developed for improving the quality and effectivity of herbal skin care products, both for topical and oral applications. This review will provide an overview of the relationship between herbal skin care products and the skin aging process.

Molecular Mechanisms of Dermal Aging and Antiaging Approaches

The dermis is primarily composed of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and fibroblasts. During the aging process, the dermis undergoes significant changes. Collagen, which is a major component of ECM, becomes fragmented and coarsely distributed, and its total amount decreases. This is mainly due to increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases, and impaired transforming growth factor-β signaling induced by reactive oxygen species generated during aging. The reduction in the amount of collagen hinders the mechanical interaction between fibroblasts and the ECM, and consequently leads to the deterioration of fibroblast function and further decrease in the amount of dermal collagen. Other ECM components, including elastic fibers, glycosaminglycans (GAGs), and proteoglycans (PGs), also change during aging, ultimately leading to a reduction in the amount of functional components. Elastic fibers decrease in intrinsically aged skin, but accumulate abnormally in photoaged skin. The changes in the levels of GAGs and PGs are highly diverse, and previous studies have reported conflicting results. A reduction in the levels of functional dermal components results in the emergence of clinical aging features, such as wrinkles and reduced elasticity. Various antiaging approaches, including topicals, energy-based procedures, and dermal fillers, can restore the molecular features of dermal aging with clinical efficacy. This review summarizes the current understanding of skin aging at the molecular level, and associated treatments, to put some of the new antiaging technology that has emerged in this rapidly expanding field into molecular context.

Cytoprotection of Antioxidant Biocompounds from Grape Pomace: Further Exfoliant Phytoactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Products

The goal of this study was to investigate the efficacy and the safety of grape pomace (Vitis labrusca L.) obtained from the winemaking process as an antioxidant raw material for cosmetic formulations. Grape pomace was dried and submitted to extraction with solvents. The extracts were filtered and freeze-dried. The extraction carried out with 75% acetone-water showed a better yield (1.9 g·g−1). High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis confirmed the presence of ellagic acid as an active biocompound in the extracts. The Total phenolic content of freeze-dried extracts reached 69.83 ± 1.02 mg for 75% acetone-water system. Antioxidant activity determined by the 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method revealed there was no statistical difference between the extract (EC50 6.9 ± 0.21) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) (EC50 7.6 ± 0.71). Results of cytotoxicity showed that extracts from grape pomace were safe, even at the highest concentration tested (200 mg·mL−1) against the 3T3 cell line. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) analysis revealed that there were no morphological cell changes of cells treated. Cytoprotection of cells towards the oxidation promoted by the peroxide solution was observed in the lowest concentration tested (0.73 mg·mL−1). Grape pomace from the winemaking process revealed a significant antioxidant activity attributed to its biocompounds. The safety and efficacy of extracts of grape pomace as raw material for cosmetic formulations was proposed through cell culture assays.