Principaux taxons ligneux de la cosmétopée tropicale : une analyse bibliographique

Exploring traditional cosmetic flora from Comoros islands: An ethnobotanical survey in Mayotte

Mayotte is located in the Indian Ocean and is home to more than five languages, cultures and lifestyles. However, due to rapid urbanization, this traditional knowledge is at risk of extinction. Moreover, ethnobotanical studies on the pharmacopoeia and cosmetopoeia in Mayotte are almost nonexistent. This study was carried out to document the traditional knowledge of Mayotte's cosmetopoeia. The main objective of this study was to document the diversity of cosmetic plants used by the Mahoran community. We conducted field surveys from 2021 to 2022 in 14 communes of "Grande Terre", the largest of the two islands from Mayotte. A total of 35 experts (fundi) were interviewed in this study. Individual interviews with Mahoran informants using open questions were conducted, and voucher specimens were collected for each plant species cited. A total of 470 cosmetic formulations, representing a total of 1777 URs, were recorded. Each formulation contains 1 to 13 ingredients, with a predominance of single-ingredient recipes. In particular, hygiene, makeup, fragrance, hair and nails, and dermatology are the most cited cosmetic categories. A total of 83 plant species were identified and the five most cited plant species were, in decreasing order: Cocos nucifera (273 URs), Jasminum nummulariifolium (191 URs), Ocimum spp. (120 URs), Curcuma longa (105 URs), and Lawsonia inermis (101 URs). This study is one of the first to focus solely on the exploration of cosmetopoeia in Mayotte, contributing to the preservation of knowledge and the promotion of customs related to traditional cosmetics on this island. Further studies should be performed on some highly cited plant species endemic to the area (e.g., Jasminum nummulariifolium, Pandanus maximus) to confirm their interest for the cosmetic industry and thus contribute to the economic growth of Mahoran people.

A selection of eleven plants used as traditional Polynesian cosmetics and their development potential as anti-aging ingredients, hair growth promoters and whitening products

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

In French Polynesia, embellishment of the hair and skin is an important cultural and everyday practice. Yet, little research has focused on traditional preparations used for beautification in this region and their potential development as innovative cosmetic ingredients.

AIM OF THE STUDY

In this present study we aim to assess and compile the ethnocosmetic potential of plants of French Polynesia to select and further study plants showing the most promise to be developed as anti-aging, anti-blemish and hair care products.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A literature analysis of plants of the IECIC list, present in French Polynesia was conducted. The most interesting plants from a cosmetic development standpoint were selected based on four main criteria, i.e. their traditional use in Polynesian cosmetic-related preparations, their biogeographical status, their phytochemistry of cosmetic interest, and lastly their availability and absence from the UICN list. Furthermore, a preliminary screening of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities was also performed on several extracts obtained.

RESULTS

Eleven plants were chosen, and a compilation of multidisciplinary data emphasized each selected plant's potentiality. Traditional allegations showed uses ranging from dermatology such as wound healing or anti-inflammatory properties, to hair growth promoting preparations or even skin ligthening ones. Preliminary screenings were useful in narrowing the number of extracts to study. Literature-based data associated to traditional uses depicted how the remaining plants and plant parts could be developed for targeted cosmetic applications.

CONCLUSIONS

A prospective approach of plants used traditionally for cosmetic purposes in French Polynesia gave insight on their development potential when paired with the appropriate multidisciplinary data. The eleven plants presented show promise in being developed sustainably as natural anti-aging or hair care products and as skin brightening agents.

Ethnobotanical survey of cosmetic plants used in Marquesas Islands (French Polynesia)

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic plants and their uses have often been neglected in ethnobotanical surveys which focus mainly on plants with medicinal or food uses. Thus, this survey was carried out to specifically investigate cosmetics in a small community and to establish a cosmetopoeia, based on the model of pharmacopoeia for medicinal plants. The geographic spread of the survey covered the Marquesas Islands, one of the five archipelagos of French Polynesia (Pacific Ocean). This archipelago was also recently investigated for its pharmacopoeia.

METHODS

This survey is based on individual interviews of Marquesan informants on the islands of Tahiti (Society archipelago) and Nuku Hiva (Marquesas archipelago). The methodological approach was semi-directive with open-ended questions based on cosmetic criteria (application area, cosmetic use, plant). Before each interview, researchers and the informant signed a Prior Informed Consent (PIC). Quantitative analyses were performed using basic statistics and the indice of Fidelity Level (FL).

RESULTS

Twenty-eight informants from five of the six inhabited Marquesan islands were interviewed and yielded more than 500 cosmetic recipes. Marquesan cosmetopoeia included 79 plant taxa, of which 5% are Marquesan endemics, 23% are indigenous, 28% are Polynesian introductions and 44% are modern introductions. Among the introduced species, half were cultivated whereas the other half were weedy species. Most of the plants were abundant and only eight species were considered rare, of which four were Marquesan endemics. Main cosmetic plants were identified through informant citations and fidelity levels, and included Calophyllum inophyllum, Cananga odorata, Citrus aurantiifolia, Cocos nucifera, Curcuma longa, Gardenia taitensis, Mentha spp., Ocimum basilicum, Rauvolfia nukuhivensis and Santalum insulare var. marchionense. The most referred application areas were skin, hair and private parts whereas the main cosmetic uses were perfume, hydration, medicinal care and healing.

CONCLUSIONS

Through this survey, Marquesan cosmetopoeia was investigated in detail and uncovered a majority of introduced and abundant plants, and a minority of endemic and rare plants which required proper management to avoid future shortage. The well known perfumed coconut oil or monoi appeared as the main Marquesan cosmetic preparation either for the skin and the hair. Several plants and preparations warrant scientific investigations for their originality.